Ibanez Edge Tremolo Quick Setup

If you own a Ibanez Edge, Floyd Rose or Hipshot style tremolo with the locking nut and fine tuner adjustment, here is my quick guide to getting it setup correctly. (NOTICE! 5:25 CC ON) Please check to see if your bridge has a smaller allen screw locking the stud in place. Please leave all feedback and/or questions in the comments section as I will do my best to answer.

[@ajlsoundwave]

I created a new video addressing many of the comments / questions / criticisms which can be found here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpqulqaIhb5seqs

[@emilv376]

This video is gold. You explain all the concepts in one video. Cheers

[@ajlsoundwave]

I've had some very good feedback and some very good questions - I'll be doing a follow up soon with answering some of these questions for sure... Thanks for the listen and your feedback!!!! Alan

[@checkitout611]

Really easy explanation. Appreciate it! Just got my first Ibanez ...... 1989 RG570. 👍

[@ajlsoundwave]

Thats a killer ibanez. I had the rg-560 (hss config) and sold it like a dum dum... good luck w/ the setup!! Alan

[@vinny5004]

Oops! Talking about adjusting action on Edge, but didn’t mention the stud locks. So many people forget to unlock and break their tremolo. That’s the only thing you really should be making this video about. You also describe doing intonation adjustments without unlocking the nut, which is another dangerous procedure that could lead to string breakage down the road and at least some tuning issues. I hope folks watch more videos or read the manual before working on their guitars.

[@prophez23]

This actually helped me alot and answered my questions. I have a 1988 Ibanez JEM 77FP and I just recently was able to finally rebuild it with all original 88 parts (which has been a nightmare to say the least) but I was having issues understanding how to set the intonation and you answered that perfectly. I appreciate it.

[@ajlsoundwave]

Awesome! sounds like a great project. I had a 1987 rg 560 and really miss that guitar. How is the 5 way switch on your guitar? i have never had any luck w ibanez switches... they wear out quick and get scratchy... 🙏😎

[@HadzaTV]

Thanks AJ. I’ve been looking for this video for about an hour. I found others but they weren’t as clear and concise. Thanks again

[@ajlsoundwave]

Hi AF, glad you found this...any questions, feel free to comment! Cheers.

[@jayot182]

Another way to "safely" adjust the action is to dive bomb the tremolo to loosen string tension while you tighten or loosen the studs.

[@ajlsoundwave]

right on - that's probably the best way to handle it. Thx for the feedback!!! Cheer. Alan

[@srficarra]

Actually this is kinda counter-intuitive cuz when you dive bomb you decrease the pressure to the posts/knife edges from the strings but more pressure from the springs is put on the post. There’s actually more pressure on the post/knife edge from a deep dive bomb than when it’s stagnant. For me, the very best and easiest way to do it is to pull the trem up and pull two springs out. On a real Ibanez edge you shouldn’t have any trouble dulling the knife edges, making small adjustments, with just one or even two springs attached

[@vinny5004]

Right on, except this is a super UN-safe way to do it. Also, you would need more hands than one person should have.

[@Billkwando]

4:30 There is a rectangular indentation on the side of the Edge that's there to indicate the spot to level. If that indent is level, you're good.

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@Billkwando interesting. I have not noticed it but will def. look!!! thx for the tip.

[@Billkwando]

@@ajlsoundwave I looked and I think your trem is so low it might be obscured by the body route.

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@Billkwando right, hence why I use the top of the saddle as the "flat edge". All in all, there is no absolute; all players preference and I know some who prefer it to be tilted slightly back which brings the strings a tad closer...

[@Billkwando]

@@ajlsoundwave There IS an absolute, but whether folks choose to ignore it is up to them, haha. I do the same thing with sighting the bridge saddles on my Gotoh, but I have a couple JS guitars and on them you can clearly see the horizontal line on the side of the Edge. I guess the RG is just built different. Maybe something to do with it having a pickguard?

[@jamesbondaygee]

Dude thanks for having any information on this. I just got a Ibanez guitar rg350 or something. And everytime I tried to tune it, it would go out of tune like a half or full step. Even when I put the locking nut in place. So I thought the guitar was worthless until I found some adjustment to bolt on the back and tightened it up and suddenly it stays in tune! So I got learn everything about this. That's why I'm here.

[@ajlsoundwave]

Right on James - so yeah, def. having a better understanding of how the bridge operates will help you keep it in tune. I am planning on doing a second video in the near future to go over the bridge in more detail - i.e. I'm going to remove the bridge and show how the post screws / locking screws work since I've received many questions on this... Plus I have to fix the five way switch and to do that, I have to remove all of the strings, so I'm going to do both videos! Cheers, thanks for watching and the comment. Alan

[@BillyBlaze7]

excellent video! a few couple decades ago I had a JS1000WH, loved that guitar but after busting strings on it at gigs and not having the understanding of how to quickly restring it at a show I got rid of it. Seeing what they go for now if they can even be found makes me sick lol I am looking at getting the exact guitar you used in this video. Since I no longer play live and just do studio recordings I have all the time in the world to address situations like that. Your video was informative, thank you.

[@ajlsoundwave]

Hi Billy - Thank you, really appreciate the feedback. I'm learning the KZbin thing and some of my videos feel really wonky at the moment, but will def. get back to more of this content soon. BIG NOTE: the stock pickups in these RGs are not that great, I'm running the gravity storms (neck and bridge) and am thrilled with the results. As far as the neck on this RG - is the thinnest I've seen or played and find it so easy to play. Ive owned this guitar for a while and I can def. say it is worth every penny. The tuning on this guitar is incredibly stable out of the gate, so I found this particular licensed bridge really good - better than my guitars equipped w/ Floyds. I wish you luck and if you have any questions, hit me up! Alan

[@BillyBlaze7]

@@ajlsoundwave Thanks Alan, I appreciate the extra info. I've been on YT since 07, if you want to make a go of it dont do anything at all controversial lol and avoid key words that will trigger the algo or you will get shadow banned at the least. All this was done to me way before cancelling was even a thing. But I wasnt trying to make a go of it just trying to spread the message of liberty, and with that thankfully I didnt need the help of YT. Best of luck to you bro and thanks again, your vid will help folks like me a great deal.

[@ajlsoundwave]

2-27-2023 UPDATE (I will have a video addressing this shortly). The bridge height adjustment is Clockwise which causes the bridge to LOWER and CCW which causes it to RAISE. I found very conflicting info online about the inside smaller SET SCREW so I took apart my bridge and confirmed how this operates in my bridge. Turning the set screw CCW will unlock the bridge height adjustment screw. IF you keep turning the small set screw CCW, you will come to a hard stop internally which means the small set screw is fully RETRACTED - do NOT force or go any further. When adjusting the bridge height, first turn the small set screw CCW until it stops. then set the bridge height screw to the desired height, followed by turning the small set screw Clockwise until you feel it bottom out, then perhaps a little bit tighter which will put pressure on the larger height screw causing it to "lock".

[@roderickgful]

That fancy tool is great! However, it doesn’t work on my Edge Lo Pro! 🤬😤🤬

[@ajlsoundwave]

interesting... I have a 2lb hammer for those jobs where the tool doesn't fit quite right! lol... 🤣

[@dirtyoliver1180]

Just ordered the yellow genesis rg550. Thanks for this video. Yikes hearing that about the saddles potentially getting damaged makes me nervous. Have you had issues with that when adjusting the action?

[@ajlsoundwave]

Wow - AWESOME! I think you'll like the RG and the neck is crazy thin. So, the saddles? no issues... but I know those who CRANK DOWN too hard to lock the string are those who break them... so my advice... all you need is to "snug" them, then go a little further which is not as tight as I see some people doing it... Def. keep me posted on your guitar and if you have any problems, please reach out. I still use mine for many clients / session work and can't say enough about how good of a guitar it is. Although, for my personal taste, I did swap out the pickups and I wanted the Red bishop bar upgrade...

[@roxievazz9570]

Thank you for your knowledge.

[@ajlsoundwave]

Thanks! I'm still learning as well so I appreciate the view and feedback... Cheers, Alan.

[@ARTIFICIALFAITHOFFICAL]

Very clear. Thx. Subscribed.

[@ajlsoundwave]

RIGHT ON!!! thanks - if you need anything else covered, hit me up here...

[@iloveitall]

First you did not mention that he knife edge is visible on the side of the trem, so it is easy to see when it is even. Second, you did not mention to loosen the stud lock before height adjustment (and locking it after).

[@ajlsoundwave]

Thank you for your feedback. I have added a caption at 5:25 to "loosen stud lock" as you have pointed out. Not all of edge or floyd type bridges have this, but it's an excellent point especially since the majority of the ibanez series do have this option.

[@ajlsoundwave]

Adding a caption sometimes takes time before it shows up in the video; I have also added in your note into the description. Again, thank you for your feedback and well taken advice.

[@AR-vu2oq]

Many thanks for the content I happen to have an RG440 with edge. My favorite guitar back to set it up it à bit complicated. If you can make démonstration along every step that would be helpful. Many thanks again

[@ajlsoundwave]

Sorry for the late reply - I did not see this until today. I am not familiar with the RG440 and if I have a bridge that is similar, I will make a video.

[@AR-vu2oq]

@@ajlsoundwave Hi thanks, for your reply. I have a buzz on the lower strings but not on the high ones. do you think it's the action or the neck?

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@AR-vu2oq it's likely all you need to do is raise the one post on the low strings - start in 1/2 turn increments. So you would turn this counter clockwise. Typically, if you are getting buzz on both the big / low and the small high strings, then it could be the neck relief needs a bit more... but in this case, I would start with just making a small adj. to the one side only.

[@Mark1Moss]

Thank you!

[@ajlsoundwave]

you are welcome!

[@alejandromacdonald6203]

Hi! I have the Edge tremolo on muy Ibanez JS100 but there's no visual aid to get the bridge parallel to the body (it won't stay in tune). Any advice? Thanks

[@ajlsoundwave]

I'm confused so please bear with me. I looked up the JS100 and you have a tremolo bridge which you should be able to see the angle of the bridge similar to what I described. Just look at the bottom edge of the bridge and make it parallel to the top of the body (not in height, but parallel). If it's sunken down a little bit, then just try to estimate.

[@alejandromacdonald6203]

@@ajlsoundwave My mistake. It's the Edge Pro II. No visual aid. Thanks!

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@alejandromacdonald6203 OK - Edge II pro - I'll take a look at that and comment back soon... Cheers!

[@hawklynn7914]

what are the measurements on string hieght?

[@ajlsoundwave]

String height will vary from guitar to guitar because of neck relief and "quality of fret level". I try to get 3/32's of an inch (between 2-3 mm) and then adjust accordingly depending if I'm getting any fret outs / fret buzz. Every guitar is different and some will require quite a bit of adjusting between neck relief, trem height or shimming, and quality of fret level.

[@dav_e98]

Btw i have a one question my floyd rose laying in the same position like yours, is it that high? Cz everytime i tune it it stays the same way cant get more low. Or i have to tune my guitar in D# and then from the back make it tight enough to get E? ( i have the same ibanezrg550pn not dy)

[@ajlsoundwave]

I would suggest starting with... What gauge strings are you using? If 009-042, then you can likely get away with 3 springs in the back (both stock Floyds or Ibanez equivalent). However, if you are using 010-046 gauge strings, you might have to use 4 springs or if using 3, then crank them in a bit. Given your bridge doesn't sound like it's leveling out, if at standard pitch your bridge is lifting up (i.e. causing it to pull up from the body, you need to tighten the springs by pulling off the back cover, the Philips head wood screws (holding the claw to the body), turn each in maybe a full turn - clockwise direction). If your bridge at standard pitch is sinking into the body (pulling back), then you need to loosen those two Philips wood screws - start with 1 turn counter clockwise. Let me know if you are still having issues - I'd like to help you dial in your bridge.

[@relevation0]

Will this guitar do B standard alright?

[@ajlsoundwave]

I dont know. It probably can, but i have never tried on this guitar... only fixed brigdes... what string guage?

[@relevation0]

@@ajlsoundwave probably 11s or 12s? I was thinking of getting it for some Type O Negative.

[@ajlsoundwave]

I would start w/ 3 springs on the trem and if you are using something like the GHS GB-Low (0.11 - 0.53) with a "B" tuning, I think you'll be fine - just have to monke y around with balancing the string / spring tension. if it's too wobbly of balancing the trem, you could try taking a spring out and tighening the claw to put more spring tension OR add one more spring and back out the claw... The last thing you could do if you were not really concerned with having a floating trem, is with the back cover off exposing the springs and trem, put in a block / spacer on the stock ibanez metal block so that it bottoms out against the the body at rest... I've used double stick tape and a chunk of plywood...you can still "dive bomb" or do trem moves lowering the pitch, but the pulling back of the trem would not be possible... what's great about this setup is you can then drop the B to an "A" for drop A tuning...they make "trem stops" that I've also used... Good luck and let me here it when you have it done!!! Here is my kiesel baritone using 11-53 strings and a fixed bridge... kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJqmd36kndiLa7M@@relevation0

[@RoryLangdon-morris]

aj can you show me how to tune with the Ibanez Floyd rose

[@ajlsoundwave]

I would be happy to help but can you be a bit more specific with what you would like to see? I would be happy to help, but not quite clear on how to tune vs. tuning setup etc. Thanks!

[@RoryLangdon-morris]

I got a new js 140m and I have an idea on how to tune it but im very confuted with how to keep the tremolo flat@@ajlsoundwave

[@ajlsoundwave]

Go to my website (www.ajlsoundwave.com), bottom of page, click "contact" and send me your email... I'll send you detailed instructions on how to set it up. @@RoryLangdon-morris

[@WorldwideAlenkProductions]

I also got an ibanez rg550 with the edge tremolo, and after watching this video I realized that my bridge was sitting back too much in the cavity, so I adjusted it until it was all plane, but now the guitar won't stay in tune everytime I use my tremolo, I have to retune with the fine tuners all the time I want to dive bomb etc. Any ideas? Great video nonetheless!

[@ajlsoundwave]

Hi W Alenk P. so after thinking about your situation... when the bridge is fully back / recessed, the fine tuners are out of the way. When you "leveled" it so that it's flat or "on plane", now the tuners can get in the way. What you might try is the fine tuners, move them so that they are in their "middle" of the adjustment. that might make them sit "lower" and your palm will not hit it as much. Maybe you only need to do this for the Low e and A strings... The only other explanation would be the knife edge of your tremelo might be nicked or marred and by having sit more level, it might not be allowing for freedom of movement vs. having it sit all the way back. Additionally, if the bridge was sitting all the way back, then technically, the bridge can only dive bomb vs. pull back which may also have been the reason why it stayed in tune better... just thoughts, not fact. I have to replace my 5 way switch in my RG and I plan on doing a very indepth bridge view video. I will point out a few things in this video that maybe at some point you can check out.

[@WorldwideAlenkProductions]

@@ajlsoundwave thanks for you fast answer! WIll try to fix that, or just take the guitar to a luthier Looking forward your next videos!

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@WorldwideAlenkProductions if your hand is causing the fine tuners to move when you are playing, taking your guitar to a luthier may not solve the problem. If your "knife edges" are worn and are not returning the bridge back to it's zero +/- point when dive bombing, then you might need to have the bridge posts looked at or the knife edge. When you move the bridge up or down, does it feel like it's catching or popping or like it's not smooth? Can you take a video of your bridge and post up on your channel? I might be able to help diagnose the problem.

[@WorldwideAlenkProductions]

​@@ajlsoundwave kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6W0l5WQmad0abs here it is! I just noticed that when I pull the tremolo towards me it actually gets (mostly) back in tune

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@WorldwideAlenkProductions yes, I noticed that too. So it could be just a balancing of the right spring tension w/ the right gauge strings OR your knife edges are worn so that the bridge isn't moving back to it's zero position. I commented on your vid and subscribed!

[@neepathius7]

u went over everything but actually setting up the bridge. its not an easy process. u have to block it off before u do most of those steps. ntm u have to balance it then check it back and for with whammy to see if its the pitch is right. not knocking u on the vid cuz everything else was right but the trem is something u have to spend more time on

[@ajlsoundwave]

Cool, thanks for the feed back. Make & post a video of what you think it should be and let me know so I can be sure to check it out!

[@brandonjackson5865]

The guy who runs Ibanez rules says it’s perfectly fine to adjust action on the original edge and edge lo pro under string tension, just remember to loosen the lock screws in the studs

[@ajlsoundwave]

Hi Brandon - thank you for this info - It would make adjusting the trem so much easier - I appreciate you taking the time to comment and yeah, loosen the lock screws in the studs... thanks again!!!

[@brandonjackson5865]

@@ajlsoundwave no problem glad to help, I know there’s a bunch of different information and beliefs but that Ibanez rules site is pretty impressive and he offers pretty nice deals on new Ibanez that he works over and sets them up to top form .

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@brandonjackson5865 completely agree. also, other cheaper liscensed trems plus some of the other fr knockoffs do have weak knife edges so glad to know the ibanez line is robust.

[@brandonjackson5865]

@@ajlsoundwave yeah about the only other one I would think is ok to adjust under tension is the Gotoh 1996t of course they share dna with the edge as gotoh made the edge at the start. Also the 1996t can be bought new for not a whole lot more than an FR special and in my opinion the edge and gotoh are better than the FR Original.

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@brandonjackson5865 I had built 2 warmoth guitars with FR Original distributed by Warmoth that were absolute Sh*T. The metal pieces that "pinch" the string all cracked; there is a brass plate under each saddle which over time they would fall out (pressed in) and the knife edges (because I did adjust under string tension) dulled / wore... which to me was an indication that these FR originals were just substandard to those being sold by other places at a higher price... Fortunately I sold all of my warmoths and do not have to contend with the FR's. I do think the Shaller and Gotoh's are better quality... FR's went to crap...

[@markda_shark8201]

Hey man just wondering if your lock screws are loosened by turning clockwise , I have rfr 550 genesis and its righty loosey lefty tighty , is that the same on yours?

[@ajlsoundwave]

Hmmm, I'm REALLY interested in this as that's quite backwards from any of the FR's or ibanez Licensed FR's where the threads are standard with "clockwise" tightens (righty tighty)... Unless or is there a possibility the locking nut is for a left handed neck and it's "flipped" around??? Or you have that one disgruntled Ibanez employee who decided to make 1 locking system backwards... go buy a lottery ticket as this could be your day!!!

[@markda_shark8201]

@@ajlsoundwave thanks for replying , I'm talking about the 2 screws that are on each side of the bridge that you need a little tiny Alan key for , yours are righty tighty ?

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@markda_shark8201 yes - I just checked and yup, reverse. So the outer "big" screw that adjusts the "height" is normal with Right / clockwise "raises" the bridge, but the set screw on the INSIDE is reverse which you turn CCW to tighten it apparently!

[@markda_shark8201]

@@ajlsoundwave ok perfect , thank you very much sir , I was perplexed , but now I have an answer , yes the big screws are normal , thanks again man.

[@ajlsoundwave]

@@markda_shark8201 Right on. In all my years of owning FR's, this is my first with the set screw - I've owned earlier versions of Ibanez's that did not have this, so yeah... glad to figure this out and is "normal"... hate to say it, most of us guitarists are out there... but in your case Mark, you are NORMAL! ha! have a great day.