IdeaMaker Profile Tuning On The Ender 3 V2

[@jaywilkinson3960]

@15:20 you said you leave the templates in the video description below? Am I missing something?

[@a3vus]

You're not missing anything, it's just not there.

[@jancko995]

on this website www.ideamaker.io

[@peterjarvie12]

thanks for this series i been wanting to come away from s3d and your videos were just what i needed

[@garrettsgrotto8438]

been searching for idea maker help!!!!! thanks keep the series up please

[@michaelo2l]

Nice to see my favourite slicer now has some videos... Just to note the default end gcode appears to have an issue, {machine_depth} is not being replaced with a value (when you try to save the profile this is identified), I just added a vale for my CR10.

[@PaulDominguez]

Looking forward to your next IdeaMaker tutorial .

[@jonjonsson6323]

Of all slicers i have i always try to ise ideamakers, not because it gives better result but the easy interface. I know basically what to ise and so on after a few years use but it is a very nicd slicer so i will put my ender through it as well as the other machines

[@69hytek]

Here are the start & end codes. You'll need to check over them yourself for things like park position etc. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU CRASH YOUR PRINTER :) Start code: G21 ;set units to Millimeters G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode G92 E0 ;set extruder position to 0 G28 ;home all axis G29 ;perform mesh bed level M117 ;Purge extruder G92 E0 ;reset extruder G1 Z1.0 F3000 ;move Z up a little G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ;move to start position G1 X5.1 Y50.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ;draw first line G1 X5.4 Y50 Z0.3 F5000.0 ;move a little to the side G1 X5.4 Y20.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ;draw second line ;G1 E27 F3000 ;retract filament 3mm G92 E0 ;reset extruder ;complete extruder purge G1 Z1.0 F3000 ;move Z up a little End code: M104 S0 ;turn off hotend M140 S0 ;turn off bed heat G1 X0 Y220 F1000 ;move nozzle to park position M84 ;disable motors M106 S0 ;turn off fan Great video budd, keep em going

[@crossthreadaeroindustries8554]

Great addition to value of vid - thanks - I just commented out the G29 since I don't have a leveler.

[@tylerhendrix8518]

Thanks for making this, helped me find the one little setting to make it work!

[@the_DOS]

Looking forward to the next episode.

[@rogeliustachyon7528]

Nice looking forward to the next video do dial in the printer, since this is my first printer. This vid explains why my bottom and top layer dont look as smoooth at the sides of Dice and things that I print.

[@franktaccetta784]

Great explanation! I really appreciate your work, and thanks for sharing your expertise.

[@3DMakerNoob]

My pleasure!

[@avejst]

Great walkthrough as always 👍😀 Thanks for sharing 👍😀

[@Q8Police777]

Finally a v2 tune. Keep goin please

[@3DMakerNoob]

aye aye!

[@squirrelrobotics]

That Zaribo looks so good.

[@certified-forklifter]

yes, agreed

[@edmonddyogi6411]

Great tutorial! Many thanks! Would love to find out what your setup is to take close up video of the print nozzle.

[@conormcguigan01]

Hiya, just recently started using ideamaker as my 3d printer slicer so I am a noobie 😊😊 and I'm trying to figure out the settings on the profiles for third party printers namely an ender3 and geeetech a10. I'm am getting a weird retraction action and a print pause straight after the printer has done the purge lines at the side of the bed, I have to select resume print each time to start the main printing process. I have ticked the avoid restriction before start and omit raise3D relevant gcode boxes on the settings but it is still happening, is there some other function that I am missing in order to eliminate this from happening ?? Any help would be much appreciated TIA..??

[@josephsilvajr.6185]

Maybe you can help me on another issue. Do you or anyone else have the G-code to display the print time, heat bed temperature, extruder temperature and other function while the da Vinci 3d printer is in operation like the XYZprint software does? This could be too much to ask for. Maybe just a hint about g-code which might help. Thanks, Joe

[@u3dprint527]

Amazing next up ABS!

[@3DMakerNoob]

hehe soon, so much that still needs to be covered

[@u3dprint527]

3DMN if you get a chance I sent you a quick question on Patreon the other day.

[@3DMakerNoob]

U3D Print must have missed it, will check it now

[@KnooBill]

really hyped for the coming videos

[@3DMakerNoob]

To be fair, so am i lol

[@josephsilvajr.6185]

I have a da Vinci 1.0 Pro 3in1 printer and I am using ideamaker for all my slicing now. I do have an issue when the print start the extruder move to the back of the heat plate and when it move forward to start printing it hit the mount on the heat bed. It has not cause any damage yet, but I am concerned. Do you known how I can fix this issue? Thanks, Joe

[@josephsilvajr.6185]

Forget about it. I change the start g-code and everything is fine. Joe

[@Theopl6]

Hello Will it be possible to have the start and end Gcode you used Cordially

[@mariok2269]

Thank you for the series i am using an ender 3 v2. I tried my luck with ideamaker before watching this video and my nozzle hit the clip which is holding the glass bed. How can i prevent ideamaker from trying to print over the clip?

[@jenssommerfeld2767]

Hello, what a good Video. Can you tell me where i can get the stl for the cylinder you are printing?

[@Drew_pew_pew_pew]

There is also an 'Ideamaker slicer' facebookgroup. It's not a huge one, but everybody tries to help each other.

[@3DMakerNoob]

Yep, I try to help there as much as I can

[@Drew_pew_pew_pew]

under the same username? One of the more recent posts is somebody who has problems with elephant foot. I know he has other problems with his settings too just by looking at it. But it would be fun to know what you think of my proposed idea to mimic 'elephant foot compensation' by using 'per layer settings' for the first layer and change xy size compensation for contours.

[@Elaba83]

Hi, i've after following your anet a8 conversion to orbaillo frame a couple of years ago i'm now looking into upgrading the whole thing with an ender printer. But also been looking at the e3d hermea extruder. I can't decide getting the ender 3 v2 or the 5 pro with in mind getting the e3d extruder later on. I've been fairly happy with my old anet so far but seems the enders are no comparison. What are your thoughts on this?

[@genemaster74]

G'day m8....im brand new to 3d printing...and iv got the Ender 3 v2 and 3 months prior of education on YT. i built, and leveled the bed....but i used latest Cura and adjusted the profile for Ender 3 pro, other than basic adjustments in slicing, ive had no real issues other than my own blunders. with perfect excrusion and little to no artifacts, but this video has given me some new info for this ol digger to work on. Cheers big ears from fair-dinkum downunder!!

[@3DMakerNoob]

There will be much more to come so i suggest you stick around :)

[@I_T_T]

Hmmmm... isn't that background music from Angus / Maker's Muse? :)

[@franck9032]

Good video. Thanks. Where can I find your gcode please ?

[@michaelhilkman9054]

I have a question I have a ender 3 and everytime I try to print something round or rounded its only then that its like under extruding or over. Can you pleae help me

[@theman0fsteai118]

are you using octopi/octoprint?

[@michaelhilkman9054]

@@theman0fsteai118 yes

[@theman0fsteai118]

@@michaelhilkman9054 That's the issue...Try printing the same thing off of SD card and see if it's better. I had the same issue, wound up gettin a new SD card for the raspberry pi, and a new USB cable that's a data cable. I reboot the Pi every couple prints or so

[@michaelhilkman9054]

@@theman0fsteai118 I have tried it but it was the same I tried it with the prusa slicer and it was already way better

[@TwilightSparkel16]

how do I get the g code used in the video?

[@NIKT_ELO]

please add gcode START and END

[@ArcticFox63]

I'm sure Creality are sending cherry picked golden units to reviewers. My Ender 3 V2 isn't getting anywhere near the same level of print quality as any of the reviewers and this is my 5th 3D printer so I know how to assemble and tune them. I am not accusing reviewers of anything but the three Creality printers I've had now never printed anywhere near the same quality as reviews.

[@Renrondog]

My Ender 3 V2 my first printer, printed very well once assembled it. I took my time (1st build) 3 hrs, and it prints very well. Firmware on the otherhand has many issues. But my Benchy came out great.

[@MA-nx3xj]

I've had mine since last Thursday, printing almost daily. So far I'm *very* impressed. Even out of the box it was really good. I assemble it and tuned it very carefully. Try to isolate the fault by noting what's wrong with your model and possible causes for the defects. Good luck man

[@Zachary3DPrints]

Great video Buddy!

[@Creality3D]

Thanks for sharing.

[@3DMakerNoob]

Thanks for watching!

[@chaosdeceptions]

New update has added alot of new menu features that you havent mentioned

[@sneakykidd6848]

Lately my printer has been bugged with your gcode it bugs out at 99 percent

[@stevelaminack1516]

Great video..I just do not understand these people that go to videos and apparently on to thumbs down them.....???? What is there to thumbs down about a video like this?

[@hydromakers]

Lets get into the meat and potato`s

[@3DMakerNoob]

steak and chips ok?

[@certified-forklifter]

good

[@Blue.4D2]

⭐🙂👍

[@Festivejelly]

Hi, its pronounced Boh-den (/ˈboʊdən/ BOH-dən) it takes the name from the Bowden cable.

[@kevinm3751]

A bowden can print quicker? That clearly is coming from someone who has only owned a bowden printer or someone that has a totally crap POS direct drive! There is absolutely NO doubt that a direct drive is faster.

[@3DMakerNoob]

It all depends on the kinematics of the printer

[@kevinm3751]

@@3DMakerNoob True and you obviously know more about this than I do since you test all this stuff. I have a few printers and favor using the E3D direct drive. I did an optimization test on a couple printers with stock bowden setups and they could not compare to or even come close to the speeds I can get out of the E3D.

[@3DMakerNoob]

I personally favour direct always, especially the hemera from E3D. There is a misconception that Bowden is always faster due to weight reduction, but that doesn’t apply to bed slinger printers like Enders and prusas as the weight is only affected on the X axis and not the Y.

[@kevinm3751]

@@3DMakerNoob Yea I have read that in forums about the added weight causing issues but you are spot on about Enders and Prusas being mud slingers and really the E3D is not all that heavy. I have seen some setups that really look heavy, so I can see this being an issue on some configurations.