Identifying And Removing Invasive Species | Multiflora Rose, Bush Honeysuckle, Privet, Autumn Olive

[@DaimyoD0]

Love to see hunters and other outdoorsmen taking care of the land. You will always find an ally in the rest of us treehuggers lol

[@th3airsofttitan]

Just a little tip for Autumn Olive: wait until the plant is dormant in the fall but the ground is not yet frozen, cut the stump at the base and immediately spray with 25-50% glyphosate. I've treated dozens of acres this way and never seen a re-sprout. This also works very well for Multiflora rose (If you can brave the thorns), Honeysuckle and Buckthorn. Also: invasive Honeysuckle has hollow twigs, its the easiest way to I.D. it

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Great info, thanks for sharing!!

[@salviabuckwheats7434]

Thank you for this excellent presentation. I just bought 17+ acres in Indiana, never developed, and after 6 years in California studying California natives, I have to start over in learning plants and how to (hope to) control the invaders. I will watch this over and over to learn. Native plant care and gardening is mandatory to save our future existence on this planet - because if the invasives continue to take over, with 90% of leaf-eating insects unable to consume plants they did not evolve with, the entire ecology will collapse. Not only birds and lizards, but most mammals eat insects also. No food, no life. We cannot logically watch all other species go extinct and think humans are not threatened. Thank you for your important work. I will watch for others of your videos.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Thanks for watching. We have done a few other videos on controlling invasive species as well. Glad you found this helpful!

[@monicaadelman2405]

also check out the spicebush - its being eaten by insects - sometimes a good indicator that it's a native plant since the insects like to eat it. the non-natives are not being eaten by insects. Important to remember that insects provide a lot of food for the animals in the area

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Great point! Thanks for pointing that out!

[@salviabuckwheats7434]

Yes! Therein lies the real basic reason to support natives. Native plants support the ecology of the area. Non-natives use resources and don’t give back by providing food to insects who in turn provide food to many species.

[@ThereIsNoLord]

@@salviabuckwheats7434 Spicebush swallowtail is a good example of an insect that needs spicebush, and the interesting caterpillars are good food for forest birds. They overwinter in leaves on the ground.

[@bluegrassdiggers9030]

Good to see the hunters jump on board controlling these invasives.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Amen! They are a problem, and hunters rely on the land to support the animals we pursue. So taking care of the land is a necessity!

[@bluegrassdiggers9030]

@@Whitetail_Properties I'm across the river from you cleaning out invasive species as well.

[@kevingarber7057]

I’m a hunter and a forest technician in Vermont. I do herbicide application on invasive species for my job. Good to see the word getting out.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Amen!

[@delongdesign]

'Opposite' means the leaves are opposite each other. 'Alternate' means they alternate on the stem. I think you know that but often say the opposite in this video, lol. (Would have been good to drop some text on the screen before you posted.) Thanks for educating on proper ID and fighting against invasives. Another good native confused for bush honeysuckle is buckbrush/coralberry (Symphoricarpos orbiculatus). Personally I always use cut stump and almost never use foliar spray - more targeted and no collateral damage. Bit of trivia: A 2010 study found much greater numbers of erlichiosis carrying ticks in areas infested with bush honeysuckle, and more infected deer.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Good catch!!

[@kolankprof]

Great explanations ... thank you!

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SpringRubber]

Bush honeysuckle also produces red berries in the Fall which birds readily eat which spreads the seeds. A good ID is to cut a branch and look at the cross-section: stems of the invasive bush honeysuckles (Lonicera sp.) are hollow in the center.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Thanks for sharing!

[@MightyFineMan]

I’ve spent the last 6 months since last winter clearing 10 acres of honeysuckle, oriental bittersweet, and multiflora rose by hand and electric tools. I used a Kukri, hedge trimmer, chain saw, and a pickaxe. NO herbicide. Yes it makes some things more tedious. Except for bittersweet, I’ve noticed if you cut down the plant and pull up the root, it rarely comes back. The roots I missed, especially honeysuckle, sent up dozens of suckers, but that made it easier to find come spring. It actually is possible to do this without herbicide, since glyphosate is a potent carcinogen. I’m in my 30s so I still have the energy to do this manually. But it has to be continuous monitoring. Native oaks, elms, and black walnut were planted over the invasives. They are all doing well. I notice more wildlife returning already.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

It can be done. But on any sort of large scale it is nearly impossible to do without herbicide.

[@tracycerigny4402]

Yes they’re growing like wildflowers in Bristol, Indiana at the bonnie Mill State Park

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Hopefully the state will step up and try and take care of them!

[@paideiadistribution2786]

Excellent video!!!

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Thank you very much!

[@brucestevens8616]

Glyphosphate definitely the way to go for invasives. English Ivy and Privet especially. Add some surfactant.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Yup!!

[@bill8985]

Great video... but let people know spicebush (an awesome native) is dioecious. Thus, red berries only show up on female plants in the fall while the male plants are without berries. Please learn your spicebush leaves - and propagate it! We need more spicebush.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Good point!

[@qxwt]

There were some problems with the first one. What you held with opposite arranged leaves was one leaf, the leaves on it are called leaflets. Oppositely arranged leaves are common in some other plants. That twig also appears to look more like s critically endangered Ash

[@jamesbenedict5062]

Hello, can I do this in March / April, in Minnesota, with no snow cover, as soon as weeds and brush start greening up, rather than in the fall? all weeds and invasive trees have been cut already, would rather they didn't get a head start again this spring, thanks, Jimmy

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Yes that would be a good time to treat them.

[@guyrosenbarker5113]

Good info

[@kevingalvin3891]

We are in SE Indiana also, have multiflora rose, will these methods work for the rose. I know the title states it but i didn't recall you specifically mentioning rose in video. Thanks

[@guitarsandbanjos]

That's what I was listening for too.

[@CH67guy1]

@@guitarsandbanjos Me too!

[@darrellanderson6650]

Quick question. When we say 3% is this 3% glyphosate or 3% roundup which is already watered down? Thanks

[@Whitetail_Properties]

That would be 3% glyphosate.

[@darrellanderson6650]

Thanks

[@Whitetail_Properties]

@@darrellanderson6650 You bet!

[@nathanwells3846]

I’ve read where you can use dish soap as a surfactant. Is that true? If so how much per gallon would you recommend? Thanks

[@Whitetail_Properties]

We have heard that as well, but we haven't used it ourselves so not sure on how much per gallon.

[@terrys6443]

Do you have any experience how late in fall foliar application can be used and still be effective? To be more specific, I'm wondering if foliar application this time of year (early dec) here in the Midwest will still work even though the honeysuckle are starting to turn color? It is so much easier to identify them since most other plants have lost their leaves but would hate to waste my time and money if herbicide won't get taken up and transported to the root.

[@terrys6443]

I've taped off some areas and documented leaf condition before spraying. I'll check root condition in the spring. Blows my mind how this stuff is taking over forests in SoIL and private property, particularly after logging. 5% garlon 4 stump cut was mistake several years back when info was scarce. Hack and spray on guys over 6 foot not great at 10%. 20% stump cut works but time consuming and $. 4% roundup foliar maybe 50% kill in spring application. Not sure if I'm making mistake.

[@jphickory522]

What were your results? I’m in Missouri. Thanks

[@ThereIsNoLord]

The reason why spicebush is prevalent in the understory is because it is disfavored by deer. Ferns, too. So getting rid of spicebush isn't going to solve anything unless you are doing deer exclusion.

[@bengamber7162]

What about cutting large autumn olive plants at the base and applying crossbow?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Sorry this comment slipped under the radar! That is an option, I believe at a certain point (size) autumn olive may be pretty resilient to normal herbicide application. It also depends on how bad you have it, cutting individual plants and spraying in a timber stand thats cover can be a lot of work for an individual.

[@hairymanonetwo]

Use Pathfinder II ....... basal treat them. Any time of the year. Quick and easy !

[@boimaster9796]

Spice bush leaves aren’t opposite. I believe you meant to say alternate

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Correct.

[@thomasjohnson7282]

Why are you targeting multiflora rose when I provides food and cover for deer and other small game animals?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

It is invasive and shade tolerant. So it chokes out hardwood regeneration and native plants from growing in the timber. There are countless better species of native plants and forbs that would benefit from the removal of multi flora rose.

[@robalumbaugh7893]

I am planning to use your 3% folier spray on my very thick bush honeysuckle problem. But I also want to clear it out to get a nice view through the woods behind our house. I plan to spray today while the honeysuckle is leafing out but everything else is still dormant. Then I would like to bush hog the honeysuckle in a couple of weeks. That should be enough time for the chemical to be in the root system and doing its thing. Any thoughts?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Theres nothing wrong with mowing it down after it dies, but making sure you wait until it is dead is key, we recommend at least 4-6 after application. Before treating, you need to wait until the plants leaves have completely formed, but, before the flower blooms have come on. The 3% solution will work great, but is a slower kill. You want the plant dead before you mow it down, thats why waiting 4-6 weeks minimum is crucial. Using a heavy application or brush killer you will typically see quick leaf burn back and think the plant is dead within a week or so, cut it down, and you only have 75-80% mortality. So make sure you're patient after your application. Another option would be for you to mow it off right now, have your view, and come in once the sprouts hit 6-12 inches and then treat the sprouts. That will also be very effective. Hope this helps and isn't to confusing!

[@robalumbaugh7893]

Yep, that’s exactly what I decided to do. Bush hog it now and treat the regrowth later this summer or next spring after green up.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

@@robalumbaugh7893 Good deal!

[@jeffreylc]

@ Whitetail Properties. It’s mid May and most of the bush honeysuckle in my area have flowers. Am I wasting my time if I foliar spray now with 3% glyphosate? Or should I wait till the fall?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Once they flower your kill rate will go down pretty significantly. You could cut/mow and treat the stumps, or you can wait until fall and use a foliar application, for best results.

[@joeschmoe2011]

I saw if you snap a honeydew branch it will be brown in the middle of the branch and almost look like it is dying. Is this a solid way to determine honeydew? Do some native plants have the brown in the middle of their stems?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

We have not heard about that method of identifying it, but it could be one way.

[@CH67guy1]

I spray just like you do, with a backpack sprayer. What is the risk of inhaling the mist from spraying? I figure if I can smell the chemical then I am breathing it into my lungs.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

We would recommend just paying attention to the wind while spraying.

[@CH67guy1]

@@Whitetail_Properties Yes, for sure. I try to spray only on calm days. Thank you.

[@sandhills2344]

@@CH67guy1 should be wearing PPE. Glyphosate will case cancer... even at 3%. Be smart; be safe.

[@CH67guy1]

@@sandhills2344 For sure. Thank you very much.

[@bigweb0311]

So you can foilar spray in the spring(now) or wait till the fall?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Yes, that is correct. Invasive's are the first thing to green up in the spring and the last thing thats green and still holding leaves in the fall, generally.

[@ThereIsNoLord]

Waiting until fall is preferred, because that is when a plant is transferring energy to its roots.

[@natedodd2977]

What percentage glyphosate is in your container? Mine has 41 percent

[@Whitetail_Properties]

You can use 2-3oz per gallon for foliar spraying.

[@AN-jz3px]

My woods is a mess of privet - stiltgrass and multi flora rose. Cant stand it

[@Whitetail_Properties]

It’s a pain, but if you stay on it you can get rid of most of it, if not all!

[@offgridamy717]

I agree. It's horrible

[@billwilson2160]

What about multiflora rose?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Yes what about it?

[@timothyhammer6154]

I wish you would have had more discussion about non chemical methods. I’m sure cutting the root off from the stem would be equally effective but season might be an important factor.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

If you just cut the plants and don't apply herbicide they will simply sprout multiple new plants stems making the problem worse.

[@ThereIsNoLord]

Non-chemical methods are not effective in this kind of setting. Getting rid of the invasives is worth the cost of introducing herbicide into the environment. This is contrasted with "consumer grade" herbicides that the big box stores sell to ignorant homeowners.

[@almyers8074]

Couldn't you clear out invasive species with goats instead of using chemicals?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Not effectively, efficiently, very slowly, and costly at best. So no not really

[@ThereIsNoLord]

No, you can't. If you aren't using chemicals to get rid of invasive woody plants, you are wasting your time.

[@ninabuchanan2428]

Maybe not goats but some good olfashioned elbow grease. I am a 43 year old woman and I have knocked out the majority of the Bush honeysuckle behind my home no chemicals included. I didn't even know round up still exists. I'd rather have the invasive species at least it won't cause us humans to have a slow miserable death. Hopefully when all of yous know better you'll do better....

[@jamesdoesjits1687]

Don’t deer eat privet?

[@Whitetail_Properties]

They will yes.

[@ThereIsNoLord]

Deer might eat a lot of things. Privet has to eradicated in this kind of setting, if you care about the ecosystem.

[@harvestmaid5669]

Poison!!!!!!! nope ....get some goats. or sheep... (rent)

[@Whitetail_Properties]

In some instances the best method of removal is herbicide.

[@Skipboso4]

I thought spice bush was alternating leaf buds? And in the winter, or right now, the autumn olive and spice bush look very similar, but the autumn olive has longer, more oval buds and the spice bush has little round buds in clusters.

[@Whitetail_Properties]

Both autumn olive and spicebush are alternating leaf structure. The autumn olive will have the tannish/brownish orange twigs coming off of a main stem. Some of the older stems and twigs will have thorns. The twigs on spicebush are very aromatic. Like a citrus or spice smell to them.. Hope this helps clarify!