IFSC Climbing World Cup Hachioji 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women

[@mettak4531]

Wow. Best final. See Tomoa smiling and clapping for him as well. So beautiful how supportive climbers are. Great season for the underdogs this year.

[@brycesergio1757]

Instablaster.

[@PotatoSalad11]

Oh my god - the ending to that men's contest! Wow!!!

[@dannykumite]

PotatoSalad11 the routesetters did an awesome job here. All the problems were fun to watch, including W3 (thx Akiyo) because hey even elite athletes got shut down like us mortals...

[@CreativeNika]

Women Ekaterina KIPRIIANOVA 26:25 49:15 1:15:14 1:45:01 Alma BESTVATER 29:27 54:00 1:19:54 1:49:43 Miho NONAKA 33:55 58:13 1:24:15 1:54:16 Stasa GEJO 36:07 1:01:26 1:29:05 1:56:30 Futaba ITO 40:30 1:05:40 1:33:51 2:01:04 Akiyo NOGUCHI 45:09 1:10:08 1:38:36 2:05:51

[@ochristi]

Somehow the times are off, the first women start is at about 26:25

[@CreativeNika]

Great, thanks for letting me know. It should be fixed now.

[@uollagno]

Thanks @CreativeNika! Great Job!

[@monstercrx]

Thanks

[@nolanrobertson9479]

thank you so much, this is the best post i have ever seen

[@EwainW]

Always good to see Alana Yip in commentary, would to see her in a final, but she always brings a great smile and genuine joy and fascination to watching the boulders which is infectious! :D

[@eggymaticremit]

Japan easily hosts the best world cup event of the series

[@Bladesmobile]

Don’t ever let Boscoe stop commentating on the ifsc Makes it so good to watch and listen to. Good work as always Charlie

[@asoareluna]

Thank you Alex for making the finals feel like a day at the crag with my friends, by far the most entertaining finals

[@slopergroper]

Moroni's top of the last boulder is one of the greatest sports moments I've seen! (Certainly the best this season, which has already had some great moments.) Many congrats!

[@Petrajzer]

The greatest finals i've ever seen... Incredible Tomoa :-D :-O !!!!!!

[@kristallization]

alex is the comedy and energy the ifsc commentating has been missing, i love him!

[@mettak4531]

So do I but I want him in a final as well

[@toytoy7527]

2:59:26 “Jongwon Chon is the Kendrick Lamar of climbing” I love Khazanov’s commentary!

[@drewharris7785]

Thanks I was just wondering what his name was; he's so enthusiastic and animated. Love it!

[@mindhunter2278]

Kendrick lamar who can't win shit, that's a terrible comparison tbh..

[@Heidelbeere04]

Alex was a great co-commentator: He was so passionate but also talked a lot about the details of the problems and of bouldering in general. Alana of course is so nice, too! This was a very thrilling final. I enjoyed it a lot!

[@autumneagle]

16:40 after listening to him talk about the wall designs I'm convinced the evolution of this sport is going to be "Yeah so it's a flat wall inclined slightly. We didn't put any holds on it except for a chip at the bottom and a chip at the top." Lol

[@SleepTightShipOfDrea]

Loved that Moroni finish... he went all out to claim a magnificent top, to well-deserved cheers from the other athletes. A beautiful moment.

[@FredYB67]

Climbing starts at 26:25

[@allanvidebk3983]

The mens final might have been the best I have seen! Also, Alex was great as commentator (same goes Alana Yip and Charlie)

[@Del1Dub]

horrible commentator, screamed like a lunatic. honestly

[@34567kjhgf]

alex ruined it for me. so annoying!!! had to mute

[@TheRaendo]

Agreed, Alex was great!

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

He reacts just like me!

[@diabl2master]

He *is* a lunatic, and he's fantastic

[@wildbluemich]

This final is perfectly hosted in every way. Go Japan.

[@hrgsfrt]

loved Alex‘s comments on the men‘s finals! So much excitement and very good comments with some really nice insights into the boulder problems as well as the athlete‘s community 😍 please invite him again! ;)

[@SleepTightShipOfDrea]

Agree, but let's hope he makes finals again instead ^^

[@ElfriedesFrisierstub]

Alex comments was quite rubbisch. Even not finishing sentences. Very annoying screaming.

[@lazarspopov]

True, he's not very well versed

[@johnblack7862]

Alex is the best co-commentator I've heard in watching 30-40 of these IFSC vids.

[@Murdog83]

I have been watching IFSC competitions since 2012. This was easily in the top five comps I have seen. The drama of the men's final, dominance of Akiyo in the women's final, professional production of the Japanese organizers, introduction of the 3D boulder previews, and the exceptional passion and insights of Alex's commentary.

[@kim98677]

Damn, the effort put into this is so good. Great lighting, the graphics on the walls (the portraits were a bit corny tho 🤣), the 3d rendering, the camera switching is on point as well, good routes. The separation on the first women's boulder was just perfect

[@jonniw1849]

absolutely love Alex as a commentator- so much energy and he gets so into it

[@hyau23]

Japanese showing everyone how to host, stream, and climb

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Perfect job by them.

[@_jonny93]

Alex was a great commentator, really appreciated his insight.

[@eggymaticremit]

The excitement he had for the others was great!

[@Chris-ri4qs]

Alex was amazing!

[@Del1Dub]

Except the psycho screaming towards the end

[@eggymaticremit]

Raul Gonzalez that was the best part 😂

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

I knew the result and I was STILL SO AMAZED after four hours!!!!

[@eadelindizon9514]

i love alex's fanboying chonjongwon the whole time :p

[@gerijokub7737]

That's pathetic and biased af, to be honest. Doing sporting commentary you shouldn't focus too much on your crush or your close friend. I mean he praised him so much while discrediting others and at the end he didn't win a medal, that's kinda embarrassing for Alex.

[@philaeew4866]

@@gerijokub7737 I disagree, he was just as exstatic when Tomoa Narasaki or Gabriele Moroni did good work; in fact, he praised every climber. Did not feel biased to me at all.

[@mindhunter2278]

@@philaeew4866 nah hebwas fanboying he said jungwon is the kendrick lamar of bouldering.. Seriously?

[@10Slayer01]

Great camera work and overall production in this one.

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Much better than in China, but we expect that from the Japanese.

[@Garraffe]

Superb Tournament, great hosting from Japan and a lovely Co-commentator. Tension was high

[@TitchPunk]

congrats to Gabri ! What a competition !

[@dreww7664]

Wow the quality of this cup is so good!

[@shinraninja]

loving the new thing that shows the routes

[@dlavrik4811]

Amazing final, great job on routesetting, Gabrielle was just awesome, and one more vote for Alex as commentator. Climbing shouldn't be emotionless! I felt like I was on a training session with my friends :)

[@mettak4531]

Absolutely my two favourite co-commentators

[@giovanatuleski854]

Wonderful! Best men final ever!

[@kristinl5716]

Women Katja KIPRIIANOVA 26:25 - 49:18 - 1:15:16 - 1:45:07 Alma BESTVATER 29:26 - 54:04 - 1:19:55 - 1:49:52 Miho NONAKA 33:55 - 58:18 - 1:24:21 - 1:54:25 Stasa GEJO 36:13 - 1:01:30 - 1:29:15 - 1:56:39 Futaba ITO 40:33 - 1:05:44 - 1:33:57 - 2:01:09 Akiyo NOGUCHI 45:12 - 1:10:07 - 1:38:44 - 2:05:55

[@diabl2master]

Must be amazing for Futaba Ito to have Akiyo and Miho to look up to. What a dream. She's going places.

[@katrinacake]

I love Alex's commentating~~~ "whaatttt.... this did not just happen.." >D

[@matthewjanse5964]

+1 for Alana on the commentary. She does a great job. Keep her in the commentary chair when possible!

[@boosomentity]

really enjoyable comp; thank you Japan

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

Akiyo! Such amazing memories! She was truly the best! Now, Tomoa and her are married and have a daughter! Plus, a YT channel (TAMY) where they do climbing vlogs! Who would have predicted that 6 years ago!?

[@FlecheDeFer]

Akiyo and Miho, dominating as usual, really lucky to have these two to admire, but can't help being soooo happy for Ekatrina and Gabriele. I also wanted to point out how good Charlie is, he really is an amazing anchor. Alana too, always very interesting to listen to and, let's admit it, she is so pretty it's too bad we only hear her voice ;-p

[@joshburger2217]

w3 was insane, akiyo can definitely do it with more time i think

[@dannykumite]

Joshua Lee yeah, agree. If onlyJanja was there...

[@kar0x]

fantastic competition, congratulations to the competitors! :D fantastic performance especially by akio, gabrielli, rei and tomoa! :D

[@lewiethelew]

Akiho is just ridiculous.. We just expect her to flash every problem nowadays

[@earlgrey2130]

I love how the call "pretty slopey" what i'd call "that must be a mistake.. this is impossible" xD The level is pretty insane here

[@danalmad]

Gabriele Moroni big time congratulation!!! Great win! High respect! and good job Alex by commenting, made it even more to a Thriller final!

[@TheBenBen253]

I love watching miho nanaka climb, strong, smooth, and I love when she thinks outside of the box and breaks the beta.

[@jonemmick3790]

W3 problem looked like a nightmare. What a rough start!

[@SpartanDB]

That women's 3 start though...

[@rand0mGT]

4:07:51 tomoa the goat!! !

[@randyroo2]

Golf, dressage and weight lifting are olympic events yet there are worries climbing won't be interesting enough.

[@rodrigocastanon7515]

it was pretty funny having alex as a commentator

[@JoveUranium]

Alex is the best! Bring him back!

[@gu81]

Wow!! 40yrs!? Congrats!!! From JPN.

[@pohfsvcncr]

OMG PLEASE feature Alex as commentator again!!

[@Del1Dub]

Philipp Kiemle you take that back this instance!

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

He is fantastic.

[@ElfriedesFrisierstub]

He is horrible

[@Chris-ri4qs]

Alana + Alex commentary when?

[@icgantshat]

Akiyoooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@shafwong1159]

tomoa went super saiyan on the last boulder

[@awale223]

Route setters seriously fucked up W3 there- a good route is able to differentiate the climbers but when nobody aside from Akiyo can even get off the starting holds you know you've messed up. You could tell even from Akiyo's attempt that it wasn't easy to get to the zone either even after getting off that nightmare start. W1 is an example of 1 that was able to nicely differentiate the climbers, 1 flash, 2 others topped, 2 got the zone and 1 got nothing. That column of white on the scoreboard of W3.... ouch

[@JW-zs6tn]

mijo on W4: to the woman commentator, yes you were right, it was a flash (male commentator wrong )!

[@tiwang6312]

such a great competition!

[@chrissanderson2892]

That software is awesome!

[@ericconnor3728]

holy shit tomoa is a beast, WOW Gabriel aswell

[@CCMrJones]

3:20:10 the best and truest statement ever :D:D

[@BonTravellerFreedom]

ขอบคุณ ฉันชอบดูมาก

[@tacticalchunder1207]

More dislikes than I would’ve thought for this one. The setting, commentating and organisation was all very good, some of the best so far. The men’s setting was fantastic. The only bad thing really was women’s 3. I guess I can also understand why some people don’t like Alex’s commentary, he can be quite overbearing, but I like him.

[@infinitelyexplosive4131]

The volume level seems way too low

[@Elmnopen]

Where is janja?

[@argeancomics3291]

I would like to know how this walls are planned. Who test it before the competition? I mean, since the competitors are the top of the world and there´s none better than them to test it before, there is a risk of the wall be impossible to climb.

[@filzwurm]

Can someone explain to me, what the "zone" sticker on one rock in every boulder means?

[@ulrikeezold6749]

You probably have figured it out yourself after 7 month, but I'll try anyway. Every route has a "top", the goal/finish of the route and a "zone" somewhere in the middle, where points are rewarded, if an athlete can get a stable position including the respective hold, involving the number of tries it took to get there.

[@Cyberdactyl]

Who else notices most all the IFSC events are horribly lit?

[@insertwitttynamehere]

Miho is just amazing

[@r.b.4611]

I wish the routesettinf was a bit more linear on some boulders, like have the first move be the easiest and the last move be the most difficult. It's an anticlimax when the last move is really easy.

[@davidzweistein]

Futaba Itos way to start at W1 looks illegal to me, she starts with her left hand and both feet on the bottom hold and then only grabs up with the right and matches?!?!?

[@yingtang7641]

where is Janja?

[@jam409]

highschool taking exams

[@a.s.7160]

As what jam409 says. She won't be competing until Chamonix now I think, or maybe she will just do lead after her exams.

[@DavidAKSlo]

arvin sarroza She will be in Munich for the last Bouldering WC :)

[@lilas5023]

Does anyone know why some climbers have some kind of tape on their shoulders, arms or legs ? I've always wondered why and never had an answer. (Btw, I'm French so I don't speak English very well, don't hesitate to correct me if I made some mistakes ;'))

[@danis6857]

It's probably KT tape. It's used to provide some support for muscles and joints and reduce pain.

[@stefans4562]

Helps while recovering from minor injuries. Less strain on muscles and tendences.

[@lilas5023]

Thanks !

[@justinmeyer7756]

your English was good by the way

[@xl000]

If they' re competing against each other, why are they talking to each others in front of the wall. How does this help you ?

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

"Climbers compete against the wall, not against each other" that's the core of the sport! Sharing beta, or route riding is what makes this sport unique! But I guess you figured that out after 5 years from your question 😅

[@CCMrJones]

4:14:27 the sound of pure joy

[@nattou1128]

楢崎選手のトライ 4:06:50

[@sanjaya718]

Fantastic!

[@MichelleObama-gt9ln]

It seems as though being tall is a huge advantage here

[@amickju6216]

八王子でこんなおもしろい大会やってたのか... 皆んなＧＧだね

[@blakes8901]

same

[@federicorosa6345]

Gooo Gabri!

[@altair738]

Was Alex high while commentating this ? Enthusiasm is fine, it's great to have. Constantly rooting for his buddy and shouting as if he's chilling on the couch watching TV with his mates ? That's simply unprofessional. Even WWE and Wrestlemania have better commentary.

[@themeatpopsicle]

Japan really is in the future

[@as3fawf]

Chris Griffin screaming all the time in commentary is annoying sometimes..

[@ИванИВанов-в8ш8б]

спасибо

[@aeon-adv]

Gabriele Moroni dandolo todo!!!! Cool

[@ZCasPlays]

The commentary for this was SO BAD. Painful to hear Khazanov blabber on. I'm new to bouldering in this format but I didn't expect it to be so unprofessional. Amazing championship, Moroni was definitely hitting the zone, no question there!

[@DonReba]

"It's just a horrorshow of a start" - during Ekaterina's third problem - of course, "horrorshow" is Russian for "good"

[@jordansullivan5764]

Wow W3 was just badly set imo

[@34567kjhgf]

not a fan of alex khazanovs style of commentating, sorry.

[@34567kjhgf]

so annoying...

[@emhome924]

.. and distracting. Had to turn the volume down

[@dw4rfb4r0n]

Love Alex's enthousiasm, but he's not the best commentator in my opinion

[@BoulderingAddict]

holy shit that last 10 minits

[@Triggerboy78]

W3 is one of the worst boulders i have ever seen in a competition

[@monoman4083]

2022 ???

[@gnah2007]

wooooooow the ending !

[@joelvilleneuve7037]

ohhh He invented a new move! that the first guy did 30 seconds ago! wait...

[@shootdookington940]

Alex's commentary is annoying, constantly talking over Charlie and disagreeing with him.

[@billpetrak]

WTF! How is it possible that they all have such pretty faces? It's like no other sport has that kind of ratio. Screw tennis or volleyball, I'm now a bouldering fan.

[@JohnSmith-vs7hf]

billpetrak i agree they are all pretty, but choosing a sport to watch based on the attractiveness of the participants doesnt show much appreciation for the actual sport itself

[@james64ibm]

My thoughts exactly. Also, I don't think there is anything wrong with liking a sport for the competitors. Having a sport with nice, pretty or likeable competitors makes it more involving to watch. I mean, let's be real here for a second, I'm not French, I do respect Fanny Gibert for being the best of the underdogs, but you just can't love her, while Miho Nonaka, Stasa Gejo or Alma Bestvater are an instant sell to my soul.

[@surekcillo]

How is it possible people watch sports to see a pretty face? Oh wait... humans. smh

[@billpetrak]

Well I partially agree with you, but understand that I meant my comment to be funny, so you shouldn't take it in a serious way. It was the first match of bouldering I ever watched. What did you expect? :P Also I ended up really enjoying it so much, I watched the whole thing. I'll be sure to keep on eye for any similar competition that might take place. I guess what ended up happening is that I came for pretty faces, but stayed for the sport. ;)

[@surekcillo]

Well I guess that's a good thing then. There's plenty of past comps on the IFSC channel, you can check those. I recommend you also check the Lead competitions (Bouldering is a discipline, Lead is another one), they're also interesting. People also usually post comments with time stamps so you can skip and get straight to the action. Enjoy ;)

[@LeonidasMZee]

4:09:11 rip

[@wurstmann2094]

Epic