IFSC World Cup Moscow 2019 || Boulder finals

[@samhitchcock3560]

Women's starting times: Futaba Ito: 29:30 44:53 54:57 1:11:42 Lucka Rakovec: 31:30 46:04 59:25 1:14:00 Jessica Pilz: 35:34 47:32 1:00:37 1:15:11 Fanny Gibert: 39:40 48:46 1:04:37 1:16:59 Janja Garnbret: 41:00 50:05 1:07:33 1:18:20 Shauna Coxsey: 42:35 51:03 1:08:59 1:19:50 Men's times see Iki10's comment.

[@Abcrspn]

you're a legend thank you

[@paulasalazar2093]

+

[@kaitsu1984]

Climbing starts at 29:20

[@leonardogravina1000]

excelent

[@Chilly630]

Legend

[@JustSayinStuff]

Thank you

[@sarawilde8756]

Bless you

[@Cyberdactyl]

Nice. . .nice.

[@NanashiGoshujin]

Men's 1:30:17 Men, Boulder 1 Jernej Kruder 1:30:55 Vadim Timonov 1:32:43 Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:37:07 Anze Peharc 1:40:02 Rei Kawamata 1:43:42 Adam Ondra 1:48:15 Men, Standings 1 1:50:03 Men, Boulder 2 Jernej Kruder 1:50:35 Vadim Timonov 1:51:57 Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:53:55 Anze Peharc 1:55:12 Rei Kawamata 1:57:25 Adam Ondra 1:59:43 Men, Standings 2 2:01:02 Men, Boulder 3 Jernej Kruder 2:03:18 Vadim Timonov 2:07:10 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:11:20 Anze Peharc 2:14:10 Rei Kawamata 2:18:19 Adam Ondra 2:23:00 Men, Standings 3 2:25:53 Men, Boulder 4 Jernej Kruder 2:26:15 Vadim Timonov 2:27:50 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:31:50 Anze Peharc 2:36:16 Rei Kawamata 2:40:38 Adam Ondra 2:44:50 Men, Standings Final 2:49:21

[@mog10e]

WOMEN Ito Rakovec Pilz Gibert Garnbret Coxsey SCORES W1 29:27 31:27 35:31 39:40 40:54 42:36 44:24 W2 44:56 46:09 47:34 48:49 50:07 51:18 52:44 W3 55:02 59:25 1:00:36 1:04:36 1:07:33 1:09:04 1:11:28 W4 1:11:46 1:14:00 1:15:12 1:17:00 1:18:24 1:19:56 1:22:24* MEN Kruder Timonov Ogata Peharc Kawamata Ondra SCORES M1 1:30:50 1:32:44 1:37:00 1:40:00 1:43:44 1:48:15 1:50:03 M2 1:50:39 1:51:58 1:53:58 1:55:13 1:57:27 1:59:45 2:01:02 M3 2:03:10 2:07:10 2:11:22 2:14:12 2:18:40 2:23:00 2:25:59 M4 2:26:13 2:27:41 2:31:56 2:36:18 2:40:38 2:44:52 2:49:21 ----- * Shauna Coxseys final ranking was second not third (listen 1:31:29)

[@happysideoffear777]

After watching the new ESPN climbing videos, I'm so glad to be back to ifsc videos. It's nice to have announcers who know what they're talking about

[@loretoguazocovas]

The live streaming is going better and better ! thanks for it !

[@M9TeIIIHuK]

Adam Ondra 1:48:09 1:59:40 2:22:57 2:44:47

[@blinzi69]

i love you

[@noe2267]

the last one is soo fucking sad, and ty for the links

[@deathmetalhablo]

Thanks so much!

[@EliasH-video]

You can hear the pain in Charlie’s voice after the three flashes of W2

[@TamasVarga-VatartPhoto]

Overall very good quality of broadcasting, I much enjoy the speakers too. One important request, please please please show the results board every time when climbers are leaving and entering. Thanks in advance

[@jrblackify]

Charlie Boscoe is great as always. His female co-commentator was annoying because she wanted to cheer people on "c'mon... c'monnn... nice! c'mon!" which is not a commentary. She says "c'mon over 200 times in 30 mins... wtf"

[@mirotrifonov5095]

@@jrblackify She's not a comentator, she's a competitor and the people climbing are probably her firends :)

[@r.b.4611]

@@mirotrifonov5095 Then she shouldn't be commentating.

[@dailynotinteresting4325]

@@r.b.4611 It's the norm for IFSC events, the second colour commentator is a competitor who was knocked out in semifinals and speaks fluent English.

[@anubiscerberusmwks5997]

,I believed this sport is at its infancy stage compared to soccer, basketball, tennis and Olympics. Hence real professional commentators are scarce but I believed will grow in time. The second commentator being a competitor herself adds value to the commentary with views and perspectives of a competing climber. She also helps to liven up what would otherwise be a monotonous self rambling of one competitor. Admittedly lack of flair in commentary would be due to her proficiency and mastery of the language English. You have to have a very strong command that encompasses strength in vocabulary and grammar, pronunciation in order to articulate rapidly the actions unfolding. In addition a strong technical knowledge of the sport commentating is a pre-requisite. Perhaps the female commentator lacked the first aspect - a strong command of language but bear in mind she probably speaks at minimum two languages if not more 3 even 4. How many do u speak?

[@TheGameLecturer]

58:52 the buzzer sounds like a cartoon sound effect for falling !!

[@james64ibm]

1:18:44 Janja simply ignoring holds to give herself at least a bit of a challenge.

[@climbingwithkai9928]

She did not ignore it but used a different sequence ;)using it eventually. Fanny Gibert did ignore a hold.

[@DDenDeeen]

Everybody: it is impossible! Janja: IT IS FUN.

[@dante4838]

Climbing start 29:30

[@claytond5717]

Glad we have a guest co caster to repeat the words "come on" and "nice" 25 times per minute. Really adds to my enjoyment of the event.

[@philaeew4866]

That's just the climber in her, you can hear it in the live commenting, too. She's probably not doing it on purpose, and she's not a professional caster, that's for sure. But her insight is helpful still, and what she's saying is interesting. So I personally really prefer that to a professional caster who doesn't know a thing about the sport, like in the ESPN.

[@dmitryarsentyev]

3:05:17 nice russian socks! Wonder if anyone told Jernej what's written there :)

[@katzen3314]

They should've taken out a couple holds from the women's routes 😂 But seriously it kinda sucks having so little in between 3rd-1st

[@juhanikuronen6944]

After hard and varying semi finals for women I was afraid this might happen. I rather watch the athletes struggle for the top than count on who did NOT flash all of them.

[@bolsachem]

i noticed it happened last year too. semis were harder and finals. and attempts matter way more

[@juhanikuronen6944]

@@bolsachem Probably want to make sure they don't have to use qualification round count backs. But some logic would work for finals. The best final boulders were in the world championships last year. Janja topped 2 and got 1 zone, and I think no one else even got a top. Rule of thumb: If in doubt, make them bit harder.

[@David-ud9ju]

You know the finals are like a few hours after the semis. The routes have all been set long before the competition. It doesn't bode well for the first female lead route setter though does it? I don't know why Charlie kept making such a big deal out of her being female but since he did, I'll continue it and say the reason the setting was crap was because it was done by the first woman who may well have been pushed up through the ranks prematurely just so the IFSC could say they have a female head route setter. Perhaps drop her done a couple ranks and let her earn her place as a head route setter like the men have to and we won't have such bad setting but I would rather see this than what happened in the semis.

[@David-ud9ju]

@@juhanikuronen6944 Seeing people struggle is not enjoyable; it's not entertaining. We want to see a lot of tops. What's the point in having a competition where only one person gets a top and 2 of the boulders go un-topped? That renders them useless (the part after the zone at least). The point of climbing is to get to the top - if the boulders are so hard that basically no one can get to the top, then they're too hard aren't they? All the boulders should be being topped at least once in the final and, ideally, everyone gets 1 top. It seems like you'd prefer a competition where no one even gets a zone; that's just stupid. The finals were far better than the semi finals. Ideally we'd have something in between, but it's better to have loads of flashes than no tops. I think if the semi final boulders were in the final and the final boulders were in the semi, that would have been perfect.

[@scifigeek14]

loved that W2 how they all had different methods for it.

[@ДмитрийЧижов-у1г]

Шона, спасибо что вернулась. Shauna the best! 😍

[@ekgrce6219]

Charlie: your japanese is really coming along All she said was literally just: gamba! Gamba ito!

[@misteranderson8280]

2:26:11 Kruder wtf how

[@qwertyuiop-cu2ve]

The craziest thing is when the first guy to go flashes you're thinking like hmm maybe the problem was too easy🤔, but then as the competition proceeds, turns out none of the others can do it. Made me go back to rewatch his go.

[@cheznikos]

That route setter really messed it up for the ladies. Too bad

[@ankitasehgal03]

Came back to this video because I’ve run out of climbing comp videos to watch. Must say that the commentary, the whole vibe, everything was so much nicer back then. Everybody seemed to enjoy being there :)

[@jouzai1]

Such an amazing women's semi-final followed by a real dull women's final. The commentators always say that these top fests are more interesting for the viewers: they are not. I don't mind it when a boulder does not get topped, as long as it gets unlocked (like Fanny Gibert on women's 4 in the semis - obviously figured out the boulder, but just was not quite able to stick the last move). P.S. A note to the commentators and route setters: looking through the comments it appears most people like the boulders to be a real challenge over real easy. Charlie says that a boulder that does not get topped is "over-cooked", but as long as people get close to topping it, then I don't think there are many people who would agree with him.

[@r.b.4611]

IMO the perfect boulder is one that gets topped by only one or two of the climbers. That should be the goal, of course you can't always succeed but that should be the gold standard.

[@Cacovangor]

Utterly disappointed with the set for the women for not displaying the strength and capacity of the athletes. This seemed more an exhibition than a championship...

[@NunoRufas101]

After such an interesting semis for the women what a disappointing final with flashes by most athletes on some good looking problems but so undercooked for top climbers. Don't understand what the route setters were thinking when they conjured these one's up :\

[@Obadiah-j]

No one is ever happy

[@NunoRufas101]

@@Obadiah-j That's true in many senses. Yet these competitions are not meant to please people but to test athletes abilities and in that regard the female problems hardy challenged them...

[@Obadiah-j]

@@NunoRufas101 janja garnbret said in a interview that it was a challenge due to having to flash them and not being able to make mistakes.

[@NunoRufas101]

@@Obadiah-j Easily one of the most difficult challenges of her outstanding carrer..

[@lucabaar1]

@@Obadiah-j Did it ever occur to you that the reason THAT was the challenging aspect for her was directly due to the fact that the routes WERE too easy?... As in, if they were more difficult then the challenge would be a better showing of the climbers true abilities... Let's face it, you're just being uninsightful here. You see pessimism because you can't understand why these critiques are accurate. Pointing out flaws will always seem impolite if you can't see how it makes sense

[@Fiabo4]

Janja

[@evab.6240]

Soo happy to see Katja as a comentator here :)

[@greengraycolor]

Camera man, please show entire problem during observation. Please!

[@philippgothert7286]

and climber while climbing😂😥

[@duzurixduzurix6837]

Imagine getting 4 tops and beign barely on podium xD

[@tibuwi7059]

Route setters can never be sure how hard a rout will be for the climbers. Women were insanely strong as well!

[@Deathmonkeyization]

Regarding the women's route setting, the boulders being too easy can still make for an interesting final as it is then more important to flash them. The main frustration for me is that the last two boulders were essentially the same moves. Still enjoyable round overall I felt.

[@AntonRacing]

i wish those comps could be filmed in 4k

[@polaide8036]

Big grats to Lucka and Anze - well done!

[@archiecroft1389]

For the routesetting, do they have men setting out the men's routes and women for the women's routes? I'm new to this so I'm not sure how it works. Thanks.

[@FinalFr3ak]

Yeah they do. Problem is there are few, if any women setting routes for the championship.

[@mollymccullough8538]

no, it’s common for men to set the women’s routes, not too often the other way around though due to the lack of female route setters.

[@piustus2314]

Routesetting for the women just cannot happen on a professional level. .... It is not only really disappointing to watch, but foremost disrespectful towards the female climbers

[@erlendbor6101]

Love how she says, Comon Jessie

[@furyofbongos]

Why is the camera work always so friggin horrendous on these events? My God it's awful.

[@poembala]

AMEN

[@shavake]

amazing comp. too bad about the ladies, but its hard to predict after such a tough semis

[@MaxRostas]

Some pretty atrocious camera work. When the climber is making moves that are out of frame you're doing something wrong. And what the heck is with that one camera peeking out from behind the wall? What a terrible angle... For god's sake stick to the nice straight on shot with the whole route in frame so we can see what is happening.

[@dawnbrown2631]

The route setting made this final rather boring to watch... way too easy I'm afraid.

[@YouTubeClimb]

Adam Ondra 화이팅~!!!

[@martinnonstatic7435]

nice one... but the audience is quite sleeping

[@abdullaalmosalami]

So I'm new to climbing and just caught this video by chance. Can anyone say what would these boulder grades be like? V13 or somethin? I don't know.

[@kingkebo3960]

Abdullah Almosalami maybe a grade or two lower, only because they have next to no time to work on it

[@projecteer4498]

It depends on the style. You absolutely see climbs as easy as V6, but they are normally more technical and it's in the style that "if you figure it out, it's easy, otherwise it's impossible." The more straightforward "pull had and you'll make it" climbs would be around V12/13. If you're interested, one of the competitors for a lead comp (Sean McColl) said the grades were: qualifiers: 5.13c, semi finals: 5.14a, and finals: 5.14b

[@ltcomin4u]

10:39 Adam Ondra's like wtf

[@jonasjohajohanson9517]

It's such a shame that professionals who excel in climbing are forced to rely on RedBull's money to earn their livings. Just wait till they convert climbing to some sort of circus aka "extreme sport" where only the person who does the most extreme and dangerous stuff wins. In a perfect world a professional climber could make a living from their profession just like any other football, soccer, tennis or golf player. I really hope the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo will make climbing a bit more public. It's time for those people to make some money during their time as a professional climber. At least enough to build a live on later on.

[@r.b.4611]

Has to make money in order to pay the athletes.

[@cimfonica01]

The boulders of the semi's were actually more suited for the finals. Not interesting to see less experienced climber suck on all 4 boulders in semi's and to see the better climbers top each one in the finals...

[@r.b.4611]

Anyone got a time stamp for when Jan Hoyer 1 arm dynos his way from the starting hold to the finish?

[@ph3086]

Such a terrible routesetting for women. Too easy boulders and the last two almost identical.

[@EliasH-video]

dimogiorgos if you listen closely you can hear the routesetters for W2 getting sent to the gulag

[@Del1Dub]

a couple of 6A's and a 6B

[@neb2612]

Yep, the last two had the same movements. Disappointing

[@Murdog83]

I agree that the finals problems appeared to be on the easier side. That said, Janja mentions that she still had fun and that it was difficult because she had to be "super focused." Also, I liked watching the different methods employed to top the final problem. While the setting might have been a bit better, I wouldn't call it "terrible." You must be an experienced professional route setter though and know better than these setters and myself. Please tell us the last IFSC World Cup event at which you were setting so that we can learn from your expertise.

[@ph3086]

@@Murdog83 I hope you understand that everyone is entitled into his opinion. Many people agree that the women problems were really bad. You can disagree with that and it is respectable. However, your irony makes you a moron. I am not a route setter but I can always express my opinion about the routesetting of a world cup event.

[@Grovesie35]

When did Andy Murray start climbing?

[@leaweinrich5697]

Not a big fan of the female commentator. Main comment being "come on"

[@stefans4562]

I am a fan of her. Maybe just not her commentating. She's a climber after all, not a commentator.

[@MrFancyFingers]

Yea, she seemed high to me...

[@08Shade80]

Yea she's making me anxious... She makes a much better fan than commentator

[@pieceofpecanpie]

Agree. Not the best choice. Some climbers are fantastic at providing a more in depth insight and analysis from a professional angle. Here that insight consisted of "come on", "gamba", "nice", "yes", "amazing", "mmm" etc.

[@JANDEJOEP]

@@pieceofpecanpie Gamba, gamba! 😂😂

[@WhisperingFae]

Hi, can someone answer me, why would they need two chalk bags? one on the hip, and brought along the other unattached one?

[@The8675309remix]

The big bags make chalking up quick and easy so ideal for on the mats. The small bags allow the climbers to chalk up mid-climb. It's not necessary to have two but it adds convenience and efficiency in a pro setting

[@thethe5475]

If you turned Yoshiyuki upside down you could use him as a mop 😂

[@timarno12]

Puhhh Adam Ondra is still human

[@jrblackify]

I really liked when the female commentator said "c'mon... c'mon". That added a lot of insight into the sport.

[@Amsjes]

Next time I face a boulder problem I will wonder WWJD? What Would Janja Do? :D

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

it`s the heands of the World

[@austinlokey]

What about Chon, Narasaki, & the rest of the high placing Japanese men team?

[@funclimb_youtube]

Narasaki didn't go to Moscow.

[@fangedladybug]

Chon is Korean

[@austinlokey]

fangedladybug I know. That’s why I named him specifically and not just say Japanese team. Only reason I named Narasaki, as I’m sure you’re curious, is cause he’s a bad ass dynamic climber. Thanks for making sure I know my climbers though 🙌🏼

[@fangedladybug]

@@austinlokey Ah yeah ok. I misread your comment lol.

[@rayrayqbaby]

I need a chalk bag just to watch!

[@kennethellison9713]

me too!

[@sayedhusseini1640]

very bad speakers. why they are not just silent????????

[@joshgibson267]

2:06:15 replicate

[@marikasvensson9152]

Is it really only janja that uses the "signature move"?

[@moonti6820]

It's a move to cut down momentum after a dyno and pretty much all climbers do it but Janja has a habit to raise her leg really high when doing it hence it being her "signature move"

[@stanleygqm]

Time to find a new job camera man

[@escaladaseguraamimanera3621]

porque los participantes no son considerados como profesionales y se les paga como en el resto de deportes?

[@joejo-te8uv]

ondra just shredding

[@jankoup]

Kruder is a GOD !

[@SnowmansApartment]

wt... was so surprised at the end xD

[@Cyberdactyl]

They should have borrowed more garage utility lamps.

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

good luck

[@ShakespeareanBroncobuster]

M3 kinda reminds of the boulder problem that Honnold free solo’d on El Cap. Obviously, it’s not exactly the same, but it’s similar

[@clee2865]

Where are miho and akiyo??

[@riricky815]

catie lee commentator said one of them has shoulder injury if I didnt misheard that

[@riricky815]

catie lee heard that from semi final

[@DasUberCow]

Akiyo is skipping this one for training reasons, and Miho has a shoulder injury.

[@schmetterling2169]

Cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon uuuuuhhhhhhhhh cmon yeah?

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

тяжко, Вы гоните

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

an good luck

[@Montee_ee]

Quote: Japanese, they are all just so good... and there is so many of them. Lol

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

show how

[@ripapa6355]

Last route for the women was way easier for the taller climbers.

[@dariocarafa3788]

Amazing climbing but isn't it uncomfortable doing that type of physical sweaty activity with makeup on?

[@aaronflynn7831]

ADAM ONDRA - 01:48:11, 01:59:45, 02:23:00, 02:44:50

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

just a little

[@Kim-ne8rq]

Ps. It's "ganba" or "ganbare" (not: "gamba" or "gambare").

[@tkoller78]

Please edit the start out where nothing's happening. And please don't put the logo on top of the watch. Would make the videos much more professional. Like the rest and the commenting.

[@nikcezar2445]

i have to be honest i only like the male comentator he is wayy better at this

[@lukegowen6863]

Is anyone else having huge lag in this video?!?!

[@sankaray3468]

Adam ondra😖🤗

[@robc7903]

Charlie, just saying I found your commentary a bit annoying for this round. "perfect start" - it wasn't flash, therefore it wasn't perfect. "he learnt a bit about the move" - no, he had a high foot the first time so it was a different move. Just sounded a bit amateurish really, sorry.

[@schmetterling2169]

Any more amateurish than the female commentator

[@dbabini1]

Having more than 10 English words in your vocabulary should be a prerequisite for being a commentator at a major event like this. Just saying.

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

an we know it

[@sergiolalopez3598]

The commentator is obsessed with Janja. It's getting really old.

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

интересно

[@WhisperingFae]

How tall is Lucka? She is so pretty, she could pass as victoria secret model :D

[@alxndr2]

Что со светом?!

[@masterpropper2485]

I know the girl in the booth is no professional commentator, and maybe I wouldn't do a much better job, but someone should have told her to refrain from cheering on the climbers while commentating. It's super super repetitive, super annoying, and even interrupts the absolutely professional and great commentary of Charlie Boscoe. COME ON FANNY, COME ON LUCKA, COME ON JESSE, COME ON JANJA, COME ON SHAUNA - NICE! ... not.

[@Goshanedastdobrotakgnati]

never

[@ONCEuponAtime999]

who is the female commentator? annoying !

[@schmetterling2169]

Ex pro

[@ONCEuponAtime999]

@@schmetterling2169 no shit sherlock..i wouldnt guess that in a million years :D

[@yannlisicki790]

Katja Kadic

[@ONCEuponAtime999]

@@yannlisicki790 thanks..I hope she wont be commenting any soon :D

[@ONCEuponAtime999]

c'mon ! thats gonna haunt me for long time..did anybody tell her the climbers cant hear her ?

[@Theaddekalk]

ondra going no edge shoe,, noice

[@Cacovangor]

Theaddekalk Adam brings both Solutions and Futuras to the mat, using the Solutions primarily except when reading a crux as including more friction from body position. Both are built on the same last with similar characteristics except thickness on the sole and tensioning system with the heel cup which makes the Futura more reliable standing or heeling from volumes.

[@Theaddekalk]

@@Cacovangor ye I know they have several different, saw that now also . But it's not often a boulderer uses the no edge shoe. So I thought it was nice. Thanks for your info though

[@halfonsojimenez]

..disappointing final routes for women, the same than last year in the same place.

[@dithril3042]

this woman commentator is so annoying, not contributing anything to the commentary, "common this common that, gamba?" god..

[@jarritoforestal1]

I think both sex sould climb the same rutes.

[@docd790]

rockandice.com/climbing-news/the-hardest-boulder-problems-in-the-world/ This is why they don't... in order to challenge the men, the women wouldn't top any of the climbs.

[@kumatobazha4003]

Really enjoyed the female commentator! 😁👌

[@kumatobazha4003]

And male haha