IFSC Climbing World Cup Hachioji-Tokyo 2017 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women

[@ronizilla286]

Klinger - Coxsey - Nonaka - Gibert - Noguchi - Garnbret #1 0:21:09 - 0:23:02 - 0:24:51 - 0:26:36 - 0:28:28 - 0:30:12 #2 0:31:51 - 0:36:12 - 0:40:28 - 0:44:57 - 0:49:12 - 0:52:11 #3 0:55:59 - 1:00:11 - 1:04:07 - 1:06:42 - 1:10:30 - 1:15:00 #4 1:16:22 - 1:20:27 - 1:22:32 - 1:23:45 - 1:28:08 - 1:29:55 Mawem - Schubert - Narasaki - Ishimatsu - Rubtsov - Watabe #1 1:40:52 - 1:44:58 - 1:49:07 - 1:53:41 - 1:57:31 - 2:02:21 #2 2:06:24 - 2:10:33 - 2:14:57 - 2:16:20 - 2:19:57 - 2:21:57 #3 2:24:34 - 2:28:50 - 2:32:42 - 2:34:16 - 2:38:19 - 2:40:52 #4 2:43:44 - 2:45:03 - 2:47:46 - 2:52:24 - 2:55:18 - 2:58:35

[@RonaldoMessina]

thanks for the times!

[@ronizilla286]

No problem :)

[@iamtiestoforever]

Much appreciated!

[@MightyGiant]

What order do you have the competitors in?

[@ronizilla286]

Women: Klinger - Coxsey - Nonaka - Gibert - Noguchi - Garnbret Men: Mawem - Schubert - Narasaki - Ishimatsu - Rubtsov - Watabe

[@KW-ub9lz]

Projector mapping the scores, separated Mens/Womens rounds, good music, great camerawork and great commentary by Yip....now THAT'S how you do an IFSC bouldering final! Well done Japan. Well done

[@christophbarthel5801]

Exactly! Except for the sound issues in the end and a slightly to easy W1 - perfect show :)

[@constantine316]

If you savor your ears, turn down the volume at 2:48:20, after that it's a lot of static

[@mirotrifonov5095]

Alannah Yip once again being the most awesome commentator. Is great that you managed to bring her again.

[@twifanly]

Miro Trifonov Yeah I really like her. she's very comprehensive and she provides really indepth insight from a climber's point of view. She always provides new climbing info, last week for me the figure four, and this week the t screws. Really nice commentator.

[@laxrulz7]

Was a pretty insulting question to her I thought from Charlie after the women. But she handled it great and she does really good commentary.

[@fp9623]

Jeff Hall Yeah that's true! I also didn't like the way he asked her to give the headset to Janja. I mean, she was a world cup finalist, she topped a boulder in the finals and she placed 5th...I think he should have given his headset to Janja and let Alannah ask at least one question. Anyways, great commentary by the canadian athlete, I hope to see her in another final

[@laxrulz7]

I don't judge him too harshly. He probably brain farted after getting comfortable with her the last couple meets and said something that you and I might have said to each other. Forgetting that she's an actual competitor. Still, he needs to do better with that stuff. A small thing but it was pretty cringe inducing for me.

[@fp9623]

Jeff Hall Yes of course, it's just that I think Alannah gave probably the best commentaries ever on ifsc, not only technical but overall. That's why I am blaming him haha ;)

[@Triggerboy78]

wow they splitted mens and womens competition? It's much longer to watch but now you can concentrate on every single climber much more. I like it.

[@lechatvenere]

Can't agree more :)

[@earlgrey2130]

Yeah.. i wouldn't do it for semi's. But for finals i like that format.

[@Triggerboy78]

+EarlGrey true.. i wouldnt like to watch a 10 hour video of the semis :)

[@Jay-Niner]

Triggerboy78 yes! Or at least have 2 cameras and split screen

[@kiamoore806]

Aw. Lol Janja with braces! I've just started watching climbing and I've basically been watching backwards with the athletes getting younger each video. It's really amazing.

[@hipisuit]

Climbing starts at 21:02

[@NickLiang]

Very well organised event by Tokyo! individual climbs with great camera work! Outstanding commentary from Alanah Yip as well, she gives lots of technical insight into the current climbs whilst others seem to talk about themselves or something else non related to the current climbs. This should be standard format for all events!

[@lemmysverruca]

I have to say I enjoyed a lot the new men's co-commentator Ayo Sopeju. He did an awesome job. He and Allanah Yip are the best combo. Hope they will do it more often.

[@612crue]

also really enjoyed Ayo's insight. He explained everything very well but also got technical without making it impossible to follow. Great peak into the technicality of the sport!! I hope Ayo commentates more

[@ShaqEalOatmeal]

@@612crue annoying imo

[@ShaqEalOatmeal]

@@612crue over analyzing

[@dw4rfb4r0n]

The DJ really makes my heartbeat go up! Amazing suspense. Super event!

[@nathanhalfman1]

Enjoyed Alannah Yip’s commentary! Hope to see her more in the final

[@MissMerc007]

Thank you for the wonderful streaming and for visiting Japan :)

[@richardfredlund3802]

just finished watching the womens final. Really excellent, W2,W3,W4, interesting boulders, and well deserved outcomes.

[@richardfredlund3802]

Splitting the finals works so much better.... nothing more frustrating that missing good climbs while the camera / attention is on the other climber.

[@vicrubswi]

The climb at 1:14:14 was awesome! Had my heart at my throat.

[@zhaneranger]

I like this new one at a time format! Beautiful camera work as well. A++ for this one!

[@polaide8036]

Great to have Fanny Gibert in the final! Also: Janja on boulder 3. Oh my word. o.O

[@waoasada]

Women 1 2 3 4 0:21:08 0:31:48 0:56:08 1:16:23 KLINGLER Petra SUI 0:23:07 0:36:03 1:00:21 1:20:43 COXSEY Shauna GBR 0:24:55 0:40:35 1:04:13 1:22:31 NONAKA Miho JPN 0:26:37 0:44:54 1:06:55 1:23:54 GIBERT Fanny FRA 0:28:30 0:49:32 1:10:43 1:28:07 NOGUCHI Akiyo JPN 0:30:12 0:52:22 1:15:03 1:29:50 GARNBRET Janja ******memo******* IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji, Tokyo (JPN) 2017 6 - 7 MAY 2017 www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=6174 IFSC Climbing World Cup Hachioji-Tokyo 2017 - Bouldering - Semi-Finals - Men/Women kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKGZip2KnN2SnNk observation 0:00 award ceremony female 0:00:00 male 0:00:00

[@shadesshandy5917]

Akiyo is a beast!

[@sylvaingilbert6296]

Shauna chalking up mid-move on W4 was awesome! What a strong lady 💪💪💪

[@pierrez8570]

Great co commentary from Alannah Yip, love her and hope to see her again in a final very soon! Janja climbing like crazy once again. I'm a bit disappointed Tomoa didn't win after looking clearly the best climber in the final... Shows how limited and imperfect the current system is (but then again, I have no clue on how to fix it, except obviously remove that stupid 4 minute rule). The women's final was really poorly set though. Boulder 1 was way too easy, boulder 2 and 3 had ONE hard move. I liked the style of boulder 4 but it was also a bit too easy it seems. Not a really good job at separating the climbers (but setting is probably incredibly hard).

[@dw4rfb4r0n]

What's wrong with the system? Rubtsov looked as impressive as Tomoa in my opinion. He couldn't do number one, Tomoa couldn't do number four.

[@pierrez8570]

Tomoa was the only one who could did number 1 but he looked way closer on number 4 than Rubtsov looked on number 1. Also he seemed totally dominant on number 2 and number 3, way easier than Rubtsov. Rubtsov climbed amazing and certainly deserved his victory but I still have the feeling that the system is a bit flawed: in that final, clearly, bloc number 4 was more important than bloc number 1, since in average climbers didn't require as many attempts. So that's potentially giving less "power" to slab climbing which usually requires the climbers to burn more attempts. I'm not saying the system is entirely flawed, but I think it should be improved so that each bloc has the same weight. And also, if you are the only one to climb a bloc, that's a stronger performance that if you are one of 4 to do so in my opinion.

[@dw4rfb4r0n]

Rubtsov flashed problem 3? I understand your frustrations as I to am a huge fan of Tomoa. It's true that slabs require more attempts in general than power problems. But most of the time, as in this comp, most of the climbers find no problem in straightforward power-problems. Tomoa should just have done it and nobody could have catched him because of his superior slabclimbing. He just looked tired and under stress. Which both are qualities that Rubtsov excells at making him the better competitor on that day.

[@dw4rfb4r0n]

I like the fact that you need to be an alround boulderer. Good in every kind of climbing, good stamina and great mental game. Rubtsov must have had it so tough knowing Tomoa had one top more than him. Still he held it together and topped the other boulders even flashing number 3. Love the excitement and unpredictability of the sport

[@pierrez8570]

It's true for the mental game and stamina. Hats off to Rubtsov who never gave up (he is truly an unbelievable climber in that regard, so powerful mental game!). I also think Tomoa had a bit of a slip off for boulder 4 since he was one of the few not to succeed (sloppy route reading maybe? or pressure...) and he usually excels at purely power driven blocs. But as you said I also like the fact they sould be all rounded climbers, and that's why I'm a bit disappointed of the outcome here, since the slab didn't matter in the end. I cannot think of a perfect system though, so it's really hard to tell what should give each bloc the same weight, or give more weight to "difficult" blocs (aka not climbed by many). In the women's final bloc 1 was obviously too easy so everyone flashed it and then the final was played on 3 blocs. That's also something we'd want to avoid.

[@1234tetsutetsu]

Tomoa injured his right finger on #3. He told it on his Facebook.

[@grahamraymond5895]

I'm almost 100% sure that they spell the home town wrong for Narasaki everytime! Its UTSUNOMIYA

[@twifanly]

Charlie Boscoe talks a bit like Sir David Attenborough aha i love it. Also it's so peculiar that the semis and finals were so close, i was banking on it being at 5am NZT instead of 5pm since i had somewhere to be.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

In Japan, it's custom/polite to come in advance to any venue or concert! I don't get why the commentator is so shocked! Why am I even surprised? He can't even make an effort to pronounce foreign names correctly. Learning about the culture would be a miracle 😅 Tomoa nerves and injured finger from M3! Alexei still deserves the win 100%

[@whitemau5707]

Such shame, Narasaki couldn't have sticked the last problem, looked most impressive out of them all neverthless

[@g3cd]

Does anybody know who the DJ during that event was? Amazing dark house beats, really cool :)))

[@viiceairsoft6760]

It was awesome last year as well! Heard some Delroy Edwards last year!!

[@TK-mh7pi]

that's us Jazzy Sport crew - Mikey Valot, Masaya Fantasista, Wassupski. We've been doing sounds & sound system for most of comp in Japan including world cup. thanks a lot for your comment.

[@g3cd]

Who played during the women's cup and can I d/l a mixtape or something somewhere? Couldn't find anything on Mikey Valot and Masaya Fantasista's web- and facebook-page is all in Japanese ;)

[@RapatipatooO]

Whats the playlist tho?

[@TK-mh7pi]

me ( wassupski ) & Mikey I guess. we don't post mix on web. check jazzy sport soundcloud or mixcloud instead.

[@morgydee]

My Favorite thing is seeing a hold from your home gym

[@Bananananamann]

1:40:37 Men starts

[@kim98677]

Alanah Yip as a co-commentator is such a treat

[@Metapuff1]

Anyone catch the theme from Totoro at 1:39:26? :--)

[@881988kevin]

Metapuff1 do you know how I can find this mix? Who did it? There are so many beat mixes online.

[@elly.m7653]

51:19 gave me goosebumps!

[@GreenDoorInternational]

at 2:10:33 start of great comparison.

[@BonTravellerFreedom]

ขอบคุณ ฉันชอบดูมาก

[@alexandermakaev]

Congrats to Alexei!!! Good job!! Wow!!

[@weiurwei8247]

Love janja ❤

[@jmbriss1]

Yeah so Taisei Ishimatsu's home town is Higashifujisawa, Iruma, Saitama..... Im not even going to try to say that

[@jcrotty18]

Shauna was spot on w/ her comments about the finals setting - it was lacking. W1/4 both too easy and we didn't see any separation especially in power. I hope this is the last we see of overly technical setting and we can get back to some straight up beat down power setting.

[@NickLiang]

Well it did split the athletes, although the first was very easy, the remaining 3 split the athletes quite nicely. Around half of athletes could top most of the settings. For Shauna she either found them too easy or too difficult, but looking at the other athletes, it was pretty spot on.

[@jcrotty18]

W1 and W3-4 were all topped by four or more climbers with W1 seeing all flashes. W2 was the only problem that only two climbers topped but even here the other four all managed the bonus. What continues to disturb me the most is the trend of more parkour, balance and circus sets that has been going on all 2017 season. Power setting seems to be a lost art right now. I would rather have seen W4 or at least one problem as a brutal power set where only one or maybe two climbers top and the rest don't even get the bonus.

[@generichuman_]

Props to the sound guy, must be nice not giving a fuck about anything.

[@jojonnyjones]

PLEASE fix Janja's home town - it's not like it's her first appearence ;)

[@scifigeek14]

Headphone warning at 2:48:22

[@ariannebalderstone4936]

Anyone know how to sign up for these competitions in the youth side ?

[@johannsiemes9669]

Wild Wanderers sure thing, bruv, just let me finish signing up for the olympics and i'm gonna explain it to you step by step

[@lilkiwi653]

Look up USA Climbing

[@gnaagren]

3:04:36 that whole bit... is it just me, or are world class climbers just extraordinarily beautiful people? Of course they're fit, but they're all pretty attractive on top.

[@alexgilchrist9936]

Shauna Coxsey is one of the most beautiful women that I have ever seen O.o

[@hblester]

Great competition. It feels like the commentating is biased towards Coxey, when Garnbret has come into the last two comps in first place and, given her age, is really an amazing competitor.

[@snarkanoid]

Anyone else starting to come around on the new 4 flat format? Some of these last minute tops are intense.

[@NotQuiteFirst]

I still don't think it suits the sport as much as 4+, but Akiyo's W3 in the last seconds was amazing

[@amorfo9127]

4 flat really sucks, for example in W2, you can see that even though it is not a long problem, they have only 2 full atempts, in fact if you fall in the beginning of the second atempt you could walk away of the stage with 1 minute remaining!, it's made no sense!, cause it's not enough time to another try, so...it push to much the posibilities about the kind of problems that could be seted in the future, they need to be more simple, you can't re-read the problem after having touched some pinchs after the start...so no surprises, less harder (problems of no more than 3 atempts, otherwise you risk of no tops like happened in Chongqing) and all that drops the level of the sport...I mean, this regulation it's a terrible decision.

[@katie3867]

I think they should have 4+ capped at 5 minutes. It keeps it exciting since they only have a minute on the wall once they get on for their last attempt, and it prevents them from abusing the 4+ rule, but they won't be walking of the mats with 30 seconds still left either.

[@adamkirby7506]

1:39:07 bro has his arms in his shirt :P

[@johnmorrell3187]

I didn't understand what charlie meant when he said 'geeking out over routes.' Now I do.

[@mslisans]

Давай Алексей, гордимся тобой !

[@つみたて投資マン]

1:14:08

[@SolheimTore]

i still wonder why they play so loud and annoying music while someone is trying their best so cencentrate

[@1.TheTruth]

Tomoa is just a different breed

[@dariocarafa3788]

First climber 21:05

[@gabelong9908]

It's funny how m4 was the "easiest" boulder (4 tops and the people who didn't get any before got m4) but the two other people on the podium couldn't manage it

[@amorfo9127]

4 flat really sucks, for example in W2, you can see that even though it is not a long problem, they have only 2 full atempts, in fact if you fall in the beginning of the second atempt you could walk away of the stage with 1 minute remaining!, it's made no sense!, cause it's not enough time to another try, so...it push to much the posibilities about the kind of problems that could be seted in the future, they need to be more simple, you can't re-read the problem after having touched some pinchs after the start...so no surprises, less harder (problems of no more than 3 atempts, otherwise you risk of no tops like happened in Chongqing) and all that drops the level of the sport...I mean, this regulation it's a terrible decision.

[@dabbleonabike]

Can we have a less of the spoilers in the description please? At least for the first week after competition to give people a chance to catch up on the competition?

[@drewharris7785]

I'm very late to this party but is there ANYTHING Janja Garnbret can't do???

[@connorskeeters8981]

tw 2:48:20

[@ranipsarianos2561]

Tomoa narasaki is my hero

[@SnowmansApartment]

damn.. my ears at 2:48:30

[@mulhol43]

I could not find a phonetic answer but Fanny Gilbert's first name is pronounced like fa(like the first letter in (a)merica)nny not fenny..please make sure you pronounce it well :) thanks

[@pink_water_melon]

That's incorrect. The a is pronounced like the last a in America. The first A of America is pronounced "Uh" (or like an "E" in French). Fah - knee.

[@crisbina52]

2:48:00 headphone users beware....

[@FlecheDeFer]

Alannah is sooooooo beautiful.

[@jcrotty18]

Also, on the topic of setting in general over the entitreity of the first four men's events the taller guys are regularly getting shafted. It's seem were back to the good ole days when the rule was "don't ever set anything the shortest climber in the field can't reach."

[@thesilentmajority2765]

commentating on point

[@trajcecvetkovski4845]

2:49:15 a child just scream lmao

[@pojepoje4054]

looks like this is going to be janja's year.

[@nilsp9426]

What the heck did Janja Garnbret eat for breakfast that day, and can I have it, too?

[@keheungan]

No jongwon

[@chra3427]

I hate the new 4min rule! What a bullshit!

[@shinraninja]

same 2 girls in every single one -.-

[@MrSpondulik]

This Ayo guy loves his plastic. Stop talking about the bloody holds and talk about the climbers!!

[@HunterOfPoison]

Klinger - Coxsey - Nonaka - Gibert - Noguchi - Garnbret #1 0:21:09 - 0:23:02 - 0:24:51 - 0:26:36 - 0:28:28 - 0:30:12 #2 0:31:51 - 0:36:12 - 0:40:28 - 0:44:57 - 0:49:12 - 0:52:11 #3 0:55:59 - 1:00:11 - 1:04:07 - 1:06:42 - 1:10:30 - 1:15:00 #4 1:16:22 - 1:20:27 - 1:22:32 - 1:23:45 - 1:28:08 - 1:29:55 Mawem - Schubert - Narasaki - Ishimatsu - Rubtsov - Watabe #1 1:40:52 - 1:44:58 - 1:49:07 - 1:53:41 - 1:57:31 - 2:02:21 #2 2:06:24 - 2:10:33 - 2:14:57 - 2:16:20 - 2:19:57 - 2:21:57 #3 2:24:34 - 2:28:50 - 2:32:42 - 2:34:16 - 2:38:19 - 2:40:52 #4 2:43:44 - 2:45:03 - 2:47:46 - 2:52:24 - 2:55:18 - 2:58:35 PS: Pasted it from Ronizilla so it's back in the top again