IFSC World Cup Chongqing 2019 || Boulder finals

[@thewateringwiz7118]

Aleksey Rubtsov 25:48 43:30 1:07:46 1:26:23 Sascha Lehman 30:08 45:10 1:10:00 1:31:07 Manu Cornu 31:48 49:55 1:12:48 1:35:45 Kokoro Fuji 34:00 53:15 1:15:10 1:40:21 Tomoa Narasaki 38:46 57:53 1:18:07 1:45:08 Anze Peharc 40:29 1:00:03 1:20:34 1:49:40 Ladies to come !

[@luksurias]

...and Ladies never come lol

[@thewateringwiz7118]

@@luksurias oups, yes... work came up and I forgot about this video. Will finish this tonight

[@ziz2lenac]

@@thewateringwiz7118 And u didn't finished 😉

[@samhitchcock3560]

Women's starting times: Futaba Ito: 2:03:35 2:22:06 2:50:17 3:15:52 Petra Klingler: 2:05:50 2:26:26 2:55:02 3:20:53 Jessica Pilz: 2:10:33 2:31:00 2:58:49 3:25:52 Akiyo Noguchi: 2:12:40 2:35:28 3:03:40 3:28:18 Katja Kadic: 2:14:40 2:39:35 3:07:57 3:32:00 Janja Garnbret: 2:19:19 2:43:50 3:12:31 3:37:06 For men's times see TheWateringWiz' comment.

[@nrojorn]

The 3D preview of the routes are awesome! I really hope this will be used extensively in future lead and bouldering competitions. And definitely in the olympics

[@Ludix147]

I mean they could make the same movements with the actual camera :D

[@GabrielConstantinides]

how do they make the preview, do they use recorded video from cameras?

[@ettaphd]

Very good commentary from Nathaniel. He is only 22 and he is so mature! He analysed every problem perfectly, explained the pros/cons of using different techniques on the same problem clearly, gave us some insight on the character of the competitors... I found this commentary much more enjoyable than any other one in the last 2 years.

[@rand0mGT]

Brown nose much

[@Sly23451]

Way to go Akiyo! Such a beautiful climbing style, and still a monster competitor after all this time. Great finals!

[@dannykumite]

Thanks Akiyo for keeping the comp interesting to watch and slowing the Janja train.

[@NageIfar]

Men's final: 00:24:30 Women's final: 2:02:00

[@dasi1009]

Mvp

[@RamuKumar-bb4hm]

Mnh

[@MrBenibomb]

Honestly Janja is most of the reason i'M watching these, it's like watching the ocmpetitions with a protagonist

[@NickB-zc2kq]

Nathaniel's commentary was great! Have him back if he's up for it definitely!

[@servusmeddleude9745]

Nick B agree

[@georgeharper8865]

I find myself cheering for everyone. Lol Love this sport!

[@simon.rabatin]

Great 3D previews and awesome technical insights from Nathaniel!

[@aitorm9870]

Its awesome when the camera film the details for ex when climbers grab a little hold with her fingers :) love it!!

[@emilholck87]

"Aleksey Rubtsov letting himself go abit, oh there he is!" gold ! :D

[@pizzaguy6460]

3:13:41 Janja-that-looked-annoyingly-easy-Garnbret

[@polaide8036]

Great commenting and co-commenting. Awesome finals! All the climbers are just so incredibly cool to watch.

[@epincion]

Thanks Charlie, Nathaniel and Allison for the commentary. I enjoyed the comp.

[@Mosla]

Climbing starts at 25:00

[@roberteinramhof9896]

thank you very much 👍😉✌️

[@kamron_thurmond]

When Janja on the bouldering wall everybody else is competing for silver.

[@mayawitters]

Highly enjoyed Allison's commentating.

[@FredNelsonWhite]

Petra does not seem ok!!! her face after the second boulder! Very emotional!

[@TesterAnimal1]

Back to good camerawork and lighting. The 3d models were good. The competitors were so impressive. Some incredible power and skills on display. Inspiring. I'm going training!

[@timoheinrich8763]

The camerawork however was in this case done by chinese TV (as also last year in China).

[@shavake]

I love the visuals of the preview for the problems. i hope that continues

[@XxLuvverofMusicxX]

Going to be a sad day when Akiyo finally stops competing. She is really amazing.

[@shifter65]

Love the second commentator, her banter with the lead commentator makes it enjoyable

[@EliasH-video]

the previews are fantastic, casting was phenomenal as always. A human size reference might help the 3d previews tho

[@hyau23]

Damn, tomoa could have won if he started problem 3 properly

[@fritzbox6764]

The 2,32m and 1,5m were obviously the distance between the two highlighted holds respectively. Can't believe they didn't catch this.

[@timoheinrich8763]

Felt the same. Although the second time it did not really make sense to show it because the athlete had not been there at this point…

[@ashtontechhelp]

Commentary very good as usual, very relaxed output. Pity the female audio on the women's commentary was so quiet. 3D graphics quite useful.

[@SnowmansApartment]

anze‘s last top was strong af!

[@SleepTightShipOfDrea]

yeah, beautiful

[@rossdurbin5289]

Would prefer that you not put the final results at top of the description... like the winner... or anywhere in the description for that matter. That's like give the winner at the beginning of a baseball game.

[@JuanMolino]

WHy do you have to read the description anyway ? You know what it's gonna be

[@l.k.1011]

my words!

[@blindmixer88]

who watches baseball?

[@Dynaty20]

@@JuanMolino context is always nice. Which # of World Cup that year, who is participating; anything special about the contest (f.e. Ondra sick), ... context makes it more interesting. Context also makes it more easily understandable for laymen. Spoilers in the description are just stupid.

[@danielhdoro]

I mean.... I got spoilers cause I watched Vail first and heard the commentator say she won every World Cup this year. So now I'm just watching girls competing for a silver medal.

[@TuomasK]

Totally love these streams, but IFSC needs to improve on their camera and audio work. I work as an audio technician in TV broadcasting and I can say that it would not take much to elevate the overall quality of these streams. I don't know if they have a tech crew traveling with them or if they use locals, but they should at least get someone to mix the commentators audio. Camera work and video mixing seemed fine on this one, but sometimes it's all over the place. Keep up the good work! :)

[@francoisjeanmougin4405]

As said at 2:32:00, "pictures are taken from Chinese National TV, please address complaints directly to them"

[@TuomasK]

@@francoisjeanmougin4405 I must have missed that. Thanks for the clarification. Still, they need someone to mix the audio :)

[@anthonyleong2613]

Preview of the first boulder starts at 25:08.

[@dyndu2074]

Janja OP pls nerf

[@J_ST]

wow spoiler, but also who was expecting any other result

[@romsthe]

I wanna see her compete with the guys. And crush them like the rest ...

[@TitchPunk]

NERF THIS

[@qweasdy1666]

Other climbers: "oh wow that was really hard" Janja: "oh look a ladder"

[@anisometropie]

my hands literally get sweaty just watching this video.

[@Kim-ne8rq]

Can see everything, the camerawork is quite good this time, and funny

[@FredNelsonWhite]

Wow good job on the third one Petra! But your face!!!! Seem sad!! Much love no matter what is going on!

[@FredNelsonWhite]

Maybe just sick and real tired from the trip all that goes with comps.

[@rotamrofsnart]

These boulders were fun to watch

[@tommybear4458]

I often wonder if there trainers have secret "yea let's go" phrases that mean use your right leg not the left and other words for different things to help

[@navigator7879]

Was Allison‘s mike even on? Could hardly hear her

[@TheGameLecturer]

Funny how it looked like an off day for Janja and yet she's still on top of the world !

[@clee2865]

Those spot lights are quite disturbing

[@ericconnor3728]

that m4 top, awesome! btw until now great streaming quality in comparison to the last season

[@Palienify]

very good commentary and analyzing!

[@bige6560]

I cant even climb the stairs

[@roberteinramhof9896]

😂😂😂👍👍👍

[@ShowTheOreo]

Tomoa lost by one attempt which included his misplaced start that sucks

[@katiekrieger1838]

Why in the description is the men's finals called "the Finals" while the women's finals is called "the women's finals"?

[@djedekyemak]

Janja its the best!

[@LeonidasMZee]

When did Micheal Reeves start commentating on Bouldering?

[@mauriziobriosi7037]

On M2, does part of the hold break down after aleksey climb (and the reason his foot slip?). You can see something white on the mat afterward.

[@TesterAnimal1]

I believe it was the "M2" sign.

[@mauriziobriosi7037]

@@TesterAnimal1 it isn't the M2 sign. (There was a sign that dropped but it was the M1, not the M2...totally different boulder).

[@eadelindizon9514]

2:44:30 commentator; akiyo also went with left hand first, were they watching?

[@themeatpopsicle]

With climbing becoming an Olympic sport, the climbers should prepare to see more cameras in isolation.

[@boulderschof]

..please buy a tripod for the light spott :-)

[@TrackpadProductions]

They're probably mounted on the ceiling, or on some tower. You wouldn't use a tripod.

[@20twende]

Bring back 4-plus! The 4-flat format is significantly less interesting to watch

[@ShakespeareanBroncobuster]

20twende I agree. I equate it to American football. If you start a play when the time runs out, the result of the play stands. The game doesn’t just end if a play is in progress as time runs out.

[@biltongandboba]

I agree, but if their thing is that then it can run on super long, then just give a time limit of 4+1 imo, so once you are on the wall for your last try, when the 4 mins finishes you have 1 minute left on the wall to try do the route otherwise that's the end.

[@TheRetsik]

I know! Instead of every single competitor jumping on during the last 10 seconds, because you have to fight till the end, rawrrr!, now they all just shrug kind of sadly and walk away. I don't know if someone calculated exactly how much time the 4 min format saved and if it was indeed worth the change.

[@jonasjohajohanson9517]

I agree, the final push was always great to watch. That being said, I think it's all about the Olympics. To have a precise time frame makes it easier to schedule. The broadcasting team in Tokyo will be happy to have an exact time frame to work with.

[@biltongandboba]

@@jonasjohajohanson9517 5 minutes instead of 4 minutes is completely fine, and you can't really have an exact time frame excluding casters just filling time because there will always be competitors topping a route much quicker than others so it will never be a fixed 4 minutes, so a change to 4+1 is a nobrainer.

[@gregmasta]

1:21:26 and 2:34:40 for lucka smile

[@joeomundson]

3:05:18

[@gregmasta]

@@joeomundson Ah, I see you are a man of culture as well

[@bosskoala7]

Hey Charlie Bosco and Whoever female commentator was with you, on the difficulty to tour in Asia, the food etc-> Have you ever made that comment for Asian climbers spending months in Europe?? I don’t think so... Sounded pretty entitled to me if not to say anything else... Great comp regardless and congrats Manu 💪🏻

[@heatherm7668]

Listen to any IFSC in China and hear Charlie criticize the host country. Poor attitude as well as "absolutely" repetitive. Good thing he has guest commentators (thanks Nathaniel for your fabulous, informative commentation -- not "geeky" at all) to add intelligent comments.

[@Dumppump]

I’m from Europe, lived in China for 6 months, had no issues with food. Also lived in the States, and the weather in HK and Shanghai was the same as Boston in the summer. I’m not a competition athlete, but it’s a bit of a stretch to blame the other countries.

[@Palienify]

she definetley sounded entitled the whole time and thats just a super negative attitude. weak commentating in my opninion @@Dumppump

[@Moritz1868]

2:34:22 Sounds like they don't have too much understanding of Asia. Not just the food. It's about an 8 hour flight from Tokyo to Chongqing.

[@dyndu2074]

Because I have the sensibility of a 5 year old I must de-construct everything and therefore agree with you. How dare this man of European descent who commentates a European sport watched by mostly people of European descent where most competitors are European and mostly train in Europe with other Europeans make such Eurocentric comments. Doesn't he know he's not allowed to have an opinion. I think he should be sent to the gulags for immediate re-programming. Hmm... on second thought, why not just replace him with a blind paraplegic black jewish lesbian trans woman. Progress must be made. After all, it's $CURRENT_YEAR.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

14:59 essence of comp climbing! I would be happy with anyone except Cornu winning! Can't stand him from when he kicked the chalk bag hitting that girl! 2:37:01 Mori Ai! Before anyone knew who she is/would become! 🤟

[@oskarulle1688]

Did Adam Ondra not qualify to the final or did he pass the competition in chongqing?

[@przemko328]

Ive heard that he skipped it due to some ilness or catching cold or smth

[@katharinaprinz8283]

he was sick for some time and so couldn't attend

[@oskarulle1688]

Okey, would have been good boulder problem for him. I just feel a little bit bad for tomoa narasaki because he is always so close to winning but never gets the first place.

[@Amatsuichi]

he got sick in Moscow and therefore decided to skip this one... next week he should compete again though...

[@eriktheginger99]

We just gonna ignore the thumbnail/pre show screen is for the bouldering tournament with a picture of a speed climber starting?

[@peterbrehmj]

What fell off at 44:50? It looks like something falls off the hold when his foot slips. Not sure what it was though.

[@VellaEW]

It seems like it's a bit of tape or bandage from the climbers knee

[@mark69064]

Look back to competition 5 years ago...

[@caliand_3197]

Are they trying to tell us something with these signs: "九心归一 龙行天下" ? Nine hearts - Dragonworld ? Any insights welcome.

[@jeffchan67]

IFSC - what in God's name made you think to put the full results right at the top description and spoil for everyone? Still enjoyable to watch, of course, but... come on! some common sense next time, please!

[@rubyjones274]

That was so impressive from Anze

[@jennieohk6792]

@2:06.57 that's not a hold, it's a bandaid on the wall. I break out in a full on panic sweat just thinking about it. 🤣

[@aidricclimbs]

2:06:57

[@Sajuuk9]

what a difference in crowed.. the eu and us boulder world cups are packed with thousands of cheering people.. here it seems like 300 hired actors and some boulder fans.

[@mindhunter2278]

Chinese people does not seem to care about this when they don't have their own people in the finals.. If there was at least one Chinese there it would have been a different story..

[@danielhdoro]

That close up camera on Petra's W1 is really annoying.

[@EliasH-video]

What're the red marks on the holds? Most noticeable on M4 and 1:42:20

[@cameronranken7656]

the brand logo

[@EtherealDoomed]

The sharpie marks are alignment and positioning marks by the setters

[@kralyks8081]

what shoe does tomoa use now?

[@omershossberger5528]

Unparallel - Regulus

[@wildbluemich]

Camera work could be better. It's either too far or pointless close ups

[@timoheinrich8763]

Camerawork done by chinese TV in this case. Not to blame IFSC (who however did an incredibly bad job at micing the commentators with one clipping all the time and the other beeing to low on volume.)

[@riricky815]

M4 is amazing

[@olieldridge7959]

Do they have male route setters for the men’s problems and female for the women’s, or is it just a route setting team doing the whole lot?

[@timoheinrich8763]

Normally it's mainly men for all the boulders, sadly. Last season they sometimes highlited when a women was involved at all.

[@lewis6051]

Who's the quieter commentator of the men's finals?

[@Themamy]

Nathaniel Coleman

[@dopamine_27]

Was wondering the same thing, really like his input!

[@lewis6051]

@@Themamy thank you!

[@blizzard10001]

Too much new school bouldering...

[@selfmadethousanaire]

Rather easy boulders in the mens, especially the last. Route setting at this level seems so hard.

[@danieldamyanov1309]

Just out of curiosity do they test for substances(EPO, steroids etc)?

[@jenspeeters8812]

why are there no 'normal' branded world cup holds? (cheeta, squadra, morpho etc)

[@Ludix147]

Probably because the Chinese push their own manufacturing :D

[@MrAnakin8888]

I believe the holds are all made by gecko King which is a Chinese manufacturer

[@CycleKat]

It's common for host countries to use/feature holds made by domestic manufacturers. I think most of the holds in the Moscow competition were from a Russian company.

[@jenspeeters8812]

Alright, I still think it is kinda weird. I can understand that they would use chinese holds for the majority of the boulders but is would be fun to see other holds as well. It just makes the boulders stand out more. I think those big holds they used we're really nice, but the variaty just made them look a lot alike between q,s,f. I think for the show I would be better to see a slightly larger amount of different holds. But still, awesome cup. Lots of thumps up to the amazing routesetters!

[@hyau23]

@@jenspeeters8812 At this point in time a lot of the athletes would have used those holds (cheetah, squadra, etc) a lot and know how to hold them. Imo it's nice to see different holds

[@nothingtoseehere93]

Wow what an ending

[@andrasbiro6604]

Adam Ondra did not compete this wc round?

[@TheRetsik]

Nope. apparently caught a bit of an illness and decided not to fly to China.

[@pau1phi11ips]

As the other guy said, he was ill. Should be at the next Chinese round tho.

[@servusmeddleude9745]

I think ive Seen him sitting in the audience

[@josephharrison3992]

Who is the female commentator?

[@anhthybui4731]

Allison Vest

[@fredericolekabbaliste1189]

Super bon sport

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Men's commentator?

[@timoheinrich8763]

Nathaniel Coleman

[@805reppin661]

I wonder if these guys climb real rocks

[@NickRoman]

Some of them do. And occasionally that's why you never see them again. One World Cup finalist from last year fell to her death this year and as the commentator mentioned it sounded like 2 or three others. Adam Ondra did a few years back when he wasn't competing much. He was in some finals in 2019. The notes say he was sick and thus not at this competition.

[@calebnorris2406]

Why do the commentators always invariably mention Kokoro Fuji as really tall? Isn’t he 5 foot 9?

[@roberteinramhof9896]

Anyone can still see these tensions between janja and jessica?

[@timoheinrich8763]

Charlie Bosco was not in form today imo. Not only was his mic clipping a lot (which is not his fault). But I also felt like Allison was often kindly remaining silent when Charlie said things that seemed like he did not really understand what was going on on stage. Also I got tired of all the cameraman rants. Already last year a lot of bad things were said about the way the chinese filmed this event. Where is the english gentleman when you need him?

[@GabrielConstantinides]

1:52:24

[@kim98677]

Hate seeing Petra struggle so bad with her performance :(

[@l.k.1011]

why the fuck is the winner in the description? not everybody watched it live for fuck sake - make sense, right?

[@ShakespeareanBroncobuster]

How tall is Sascha Lehmann? They comment on his height on every problem. Lol

[@Lilianna731]

@@OpticSilvermonkey Sascha Lehmann is shorter than everyone else, not taller.

[@ShakespeareanBroncobuster]

consultingdetective1 I was wondering what this guy was talking about... maybe I should have reworded the question lol

[@1999colebug]

These large paddle moves and dynamic parkour-esque moves are kind of boring. It's just the same thing over and over again, failing at the same spot due to timing. Idk, it loses my attention.

[@jcrotty18]

Fun to watch but too much slab climbing for certain. One problem for each gender featured a crimp move ... pretty much all "new" school volume climbing.

[@井上鶴巳-x2l]

いいね

[@KSSyu13]

Noo Tomoa.

[@timothyguela7740]

Naruto Shippuden Op 1

[@TheRagballer]

Check out Akiyo climbing highballs in Bishop to see her a bit more animated kzbin.info/www/bejne/bl6voY2KoJitjK8

[@imperia8923]

I like how there is no Chinese competitors despite being set in china

[@mindhunter2278]

Obviously they can't make it, or they suck at this so there is no sole competitor..

[@drewharris7785]

I'm getting a little tired of the commentator (whose name I forget) fawning over Janja. She's not infallible.

[@mindhunter2278]

Indeed

[@navigator7879]

Agree the CB’s commentary is duff. Although worst commentator in sport is Andrew Castle!

[@servusmeddleude9745]

Once i liked Alexej but seeing him in the preparation posing to show off and not cheering for the only guy out of the finalists that tops the Boulder wont make me support him.

[@elfriederich]

He sometimes seems to be a loner

[@jennyjiang4322]

The good croissant implicitly scratch because capital coincidently turn concerning a unusual bath. cultured, lively boat

[@Iheartdgd]

Who knew there were so many attractive women at a Bouldering event?