Рет қаралды 28
Il Folletto 7c+ is a nice route in the Canyon Sector in Paderno d’Adda crag.
The route is an endurance test piece, with a long sequence of medium-hard moves with only a bad rest near the top.
For me was hard to get to the last sequence of moves with enough power to execute the moves. The only time I was able to recover properly on the bad rest, I was able to send, so I guess the crux of the route is this, being able to recover enough on those bad holds.
Tried in may one afternoon after doing Notorious 7b/+ and Pericoloso Appendersi 7a+. Then did 5 goes few days ago, falling every time on the last moves after the rest. Then today second go, feeling quite good all the way.
The route is very cool, one of the best here in Paderno.
Regarding the grade, the day I fell 5 time in the same place I thought that actually 7c+ could be accurate, being the route an endurance evil for the climber. But I was never able to recover on the rest. During the send, I recover well and then get to the anchor quite fresh, so I think with the right recover skills the route gets easier. So maybe 7c/+ could be right.
At the same time I think the grade is aligned to the crag, all the other routes have similar softy gradation, so I think 7c+ could still work.
8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user...
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