In-Frame Engine Bearing Replacement

[@MrRay3801]

I had to do this to my very first vehicle. 81 Ford F100....was my initiation into the mechanic world. Had an awesome step father that taught me this sort of thing when I was 15 yrs old. Brought back good memories to see the video...thanks

[@dikkem8193]

1:38 I'm time stamping this because I've found myself needing this more than I thought

[@prancstaman]

That oil analysis is a pretty handy and very accurate way on seeing how an engine is doing. It was a technique used on aircraft engines which is where it came from and filtered down to the automotive industry.

[@landiemark]

Just used this method to the main bearings on my old Leyland tractor. Worked perfectly.

[@ram_diesel_power6039]

I know you don’t like to by the high end tools but the digital flex head snapon tourque wrenches that do American metric and angles they beep and vibrate. MSN do the make life easier. When you do cat head bolts and they have the craziest torque sequences. Were the vibrate and beep doing those angles where there is no room for your old school angle finder is so nice. Good video. Also I’ve had my torque wrenches for ten years and head them calibrated and they were spot on.

[@AlphaBobFloridaOverlord]

Really enjoyed this video - I thought that there was way to do this in frame, but wouldn't have figured it out (without breaking something!). However, with my luck I'd shear the head of the screw off and have the screw shank lost in the crank! (haha). Thank you for taking the time to make this - really helped me!

[@ranjah76]

nice way of removing the upper bearing! good work and good video

[@demarksallen9790]

steve rohaley

[@jasonkeith674]

I’m rebuilding the 5.7 from my grand Cherokee. Your videos help me sooo much!! Thank you 🙏🙏

[@pauldietrich478]

If you loosen the main bearing caps the crank will normally drop down enough to shove the top half of the rod bearing out. I use a hack saw blade that I have ground the teeth off. Have done it this way for 50 yrs. No problems.

[@markgunther2502]

My understanding is if you remove all the main caps at once, your crankshaft is now free floating and has to be checked for fore-aft tolerance as if you were replacing the crank. I just do one cap at a time so the crank can't move fore-aft.

[@anthonybennallack9087]

Awesome, thank you. I was hoping I could do the bearings while in vehicle!!!!

[@sarasnyder7523]

Holy crap! I've been trying to get the thrust bearing out of a ford 300 and the little machine screw saved me thanks!

[@matthewpeavey68]

thank you for the tip with the screw. I used it today while doing an in frame on a 706. it worked awesome.

[@jk-zf4od]

Used that trick only a cotter pin rather than a screw on my 06 5.3l. Had 2 spun bearings and low oil pressure. No real damage other than 1 small score in the crank. Rolled in the new bearings and have over 40psi oil pressure again.

[@Ka_Gg]

Hopefully you see this. Did you slightly sand the crank or just slap the bearings up there?

[@jk-zf4od]

I did try to sand the groves down. Honestly i dont think what i did really helped that much. I used a type of loktite on the backs of the bearings to help “glue” them in place(loktite 620 bearing retaining compound). Im still driving that pile of a truck everyday. Pressures have dipped a little below 40 when warm but its fine. Did this oct. 2018.

[@Ka_Gg]

@@jk-zf4od hell yeah. Thanks for response. I think minimum pressure is 6 psi per 1000rpms. You can also shim the pump if you want more oil pressure but you're good

[@rustybrowneye]

the bill on ur hat has alot of bend

[@norgepalm7315]

Lmao

[@NitroGuyJH]

Legend says the more the bend the better the mend.

[@marcuss7486]

that is a ridiculous hat bend, the sun wont be blocked at all.

[@icookiebit8601]

Thats how you know that he is a good mechanic

[@RobertlFraley-rv4nn]

glad i found you again love the work but totally disabled now

[@countryyall2784]

Thank you! Absolutely stuck on how to do this but this is Genius.

[@brendanrapa8579]

Don't put oil on the back of bearings.... It inhibits the bearings ability to have good heat transfer and it also makes it easier for the bearing to spin in the bore and seize the engine

[@markgunther2502]

Within a few miles I'm sure the oil would dry out between the back of the bearings and the caps.

[@oddball746]

@@markgunther2502 Nope, glaze up. On the highway any movement would rip the tabs and round she goes. When you shut it off, wont crank.

[@markgunther2502]

@@oddball746 The tabs holding them in place is a myth. Check with any manufacturer, the "crush" created when you clamp the caps down is what holds them in place during engine use. The tabs are merely used to locate the bearings during reassembly. You could in fact cut the tabs out or use tabless bearings with no ill effects assuming you located them correctly. If oil on the back causes them to rotate, your crank is toast anyway (clearances are way too high).

[@RedSeedlesslive]

Thanks for posting this, I'm doing it on a 2006 pacifica, you may have saved me from having to replace my engine!

[@mariop3519]

Hey Adam, how did it turn out? I'm working on a 01 Beetle and because it's a for fun project was thinking about doing the same thing .

[@arnoldkul3827]

@@mariop3519 Did you do this on a Beetle and what engine, I might try it on my Mk4 Golf ALH 1.9 TDI engine?

[@mariop3519]

Teo Nagode , I did this on the Beetle. I was surprised how easy it was to remove and put them back in. I used a cotter pin from a set I bought at harbour freight.

[@arnoldkul3827]

@@mariop3519 Aha OK Thx for the info. And how much time did it take you, and you replaced all te bearings right?

[@mariop3519]

Teo Nagode . So to get to the bearings, taking everything off, dropping the pan, removing things , about 2 hours. Once all that was clear, removing the all bearings took minutes but there’s a catch . When I did that I then re-installed them to check bearing clearance with plastigage. That took a little creativity doing it upside down. Now the bolts for the bearing were one time use and like 50 bucks so that got expensive. But if I remember right it took like 2 hours to take stuff off minutes to remove upper bearings, maybe hour to check clearances then another hour to get stuff back on. Hope this helps

[@jubileecaprice]

I sorry I didn't get your name but just watching you makes me want to challenge myself to one your instructions are clear thanks your good

[@johng.3740]

I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 3.0 ohv. I found it easier to take a thin long flat head screwdriver (3mm wide) and lightly tap the old bearing until enough of the other side of the bearing was showing. Some people use a wooden popsicle stick to push out the old bearings, basically any thin piece of material softer than the crankshaft metal could be used, though stiff enough to hold it's shape while hammered lightly. After that I was able to get some of the old bearings out just by rubbing it with my thumb, sometimes turning the crankshaft would turn the bearing and that helped getting it out. Some people use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull on the part of the bearing left showing after tapping them with the screwdriver. Putting in the new bearings was easier, for almost all the bearings I was able to push them in nearly halfway with my thumb then I used the wooden end of a rubber mallet to tap them in all the way.

[@bernhard8540]

I know it was a joke years back when you first made this video, but someone seriously should make a tool set that is specifically for bearing rolls.. id gladly buy it and not have to make something to do it❤❤❤

[@modifyman6977]

This is definitely from the hand book of work smarter, not harder. I was laying underneath of an old rebuilt John Deere R1010, looking at some scorched bearings, wondering, "How do I remove these...other than a modified punch and a hammer?" New analogy, Never force any thing...always use a "Smarter" hammer. Bigger hammers are great, but I usually prefer smarter.

[@nuttyDesignAndFab]

tried it and it worked! I ripped a tine off a plastic fork instead of the bolt though, figured plastic has less of a chance of damaging anything.

[@shawnp001]

So glad to have seen this video

[@BrandonRa]

This was hard to follow but thank you for the knowledge

[@231mac]

It was??

[@mmm_the_law_hunter]

Thank you great tip I order to not have to pull tranny and front pulleys and timing. Very nice...even though at 225k I probably should be changing front and rear main seals...oil pump wouldn't hurt.

[@kyleirish4437]

Color me crazy, but never have I seen a main, rod, or cam bearing put in soaked in oil, after countless replacements on class 8 trucks. Back sides are meant to be dry for a reason. This is the first time I've ever seen this wrong installation done. Oiling the entire bearing is a fairly good way to set yourself up for a spun bearing.

[@CONTACTLIGHTTOMMY]

Do you think that the bearings don't get oil on both surfaces at some point? How is that possible without a hermetically sealed bearing gasket?

[@HumbleHotshot]

Very helpful video, thank you! Any tips on attempting an "in truck" bearing roll on a 3rd gen Ram 5.9 common rail ??? Love the content, God bless!

[@carlodonnell146]

should I loosen all the caps together but remove only one at a time; wouldnt looening all the caps ease the others.

[@gasaxe6056]

Thanks for confirming the bearing change well in the frame. I really didn't want to pull my engine but my rear main is making noise.

[@carlodonnell146]

so bolts that are not TTY don't stretch as much as TTYs or they don't stretch at all?

[@freewillfarms2059]

Dude never knew you could do that! Tell me though what about wear parts ,does the main crankshaft bearings wear more than the hardened steel crankshaft itself? Also did you mic for the new bearings or did you just replace them with stock mains again? Love the info with the bolt stretch and precision tool indicator.

[@stevencsawyerss]

Great information, would this work on a 96 Ford F-150. I really don't want to pull the engine.

[@jimineutron259]

On a ford you can't remove the oil pan without pulling the engine. So the engine must come out anyway.

[@ashtondavisbreakneckadvent8924]

I lifted the engine up in my truck about an inch and it was enough to shimmy out the oil pan. I also removed the oil pump before as well, which was tight but well worth not pulling the engine.

[@jayurehman]

It’s thorough and thanks. What is the name of dial and where we can get it ?

[@MJadeMcGregor]

Do this trick will help remove both top and bottom pieces of bearing? 😅👍

[@Stefancy]

Could plastigauge be placed in when rotating the main back in? Any tricks to keep it from sliding off, etc.? Torque it all down, take it back off and check tolerance? Is there any real risk to slapping new bearings on and just forgoing the tolerance check? Thank you!

[@esteve95]

have you ever sanded/polished crank installed like this?before installing bearings?

[@oscarcisneros4560]

Your a beast. Great trick with the screw.

[@jerredwayne8401]

You could also use a cotter pin bend the ends out like a y

[@andrewjoyce7789]

I've done that on a Neuss in an International 786, it works well....

[@danielhaynes1642]

I've changed bearings at the strip many times using similar methods ( I use a cotter pin bent)

[@robbernard9345]

This works great, the mains came out and new ones back in easy. With the exception of the main thrust bearing (center most). I cannot get the upper half of main thrust bearing to go back in. I've checked clearances on the sides and they are ok. (looking for any points that might be causing an interference fit). I went so far as to cut a short piece out of the old main to insure alignment (I tapped this in with a brass punch), then placed the upper thrust bearing on the crank as described in the video. When I rotate the crank, the cotter pin tries to ride underneath the main thrust bearing upper half. Frustrating... Continuing to try this over and over is the defn of insanity. Has any one done this successfully? I realize this is a very tight fit. I tried loosening the other main caps to see if I could get more clearance. Worse case, can I remove the crank with the engine still the truck?

[@zurdoremi]

so bearings can be replaced with engine in place?

[@willmo454]

Can the thrust bearing of a 5.9 12v Cummins be replaced like this? I just found a part of the thrust bearing in my oil pan.

[@karlmurphy290]

I thought someone would ask this but didn't find it in your comments. Why did you put a bend in the bolt to roll the bearing out? I'm doing my 6.7l Cummins now. I have done many engines with a small screwdriver. This one is different since the bearing sits so deep in the block. I'm really curious about the bend and if it is necessary.

[@MiracleMitch]

Probably to give it a little purchase in the oil hole otherwise it would simply fall out very easily before it gets around to the top bearing.

[@karlmurphy290]

@@MiracleMitch I used a small carriage bolt for a license plate. Ground the top flat for clearance and two sides flat. I did not bend it. It worked beautifully. Pushed the old bearings right out. Was not too effective at pushing them back in, but that part is easily done with the flat square end of a long extension. 2014 6.7L Cummins 700k miles. She's quite now and smooth as silk.

[@nomeonafirstnamebases5010]

After taking off oil pan is there another part of engine walls to remove? i cant seem to get the main caps out! 3.0l durtec v6 mercury mariner. also due i need to remove the serpintine belt? i jus finished the rod bearings and cant find any info on accesing the main caps jus installing bearings.wich would be great if i could learn how to remove the main cap. 🙄

[@jakemetscher9354]

No measurements on bearing clearances?

[@b8t135]

Hi Deboss garage I have a question that is pertaining to the video topic. have you ever came across any common rail Cummins 5.9 and 6.7 with #5 thrust bearing commimg apart . From doing research online it's seems a handful of owners are stating failures In the three peice thurst bearing design from Cummins.

[@jonathanjacobs8187]

Thanks. I love you.

[@stevenbyrd4310]

So I don't know if I understand exactly what you said are you saying that your crank bolts can't be used again it's a one-time-use or are you saying that you have to do 90° plus the 10 to use the bolts again I'm not certain what you're saying there can you make it clear please

[@Jj.leenard]

Ok guys I got a couple questions that I would like an answer to just to be safe. I have a 2011 Toyota Camry 2.5L 2ar-fe engine and considering doing this. If I were to spin this (crankshaft) im guessing it would be fine to do it off the bolt where the serpentine belt is found. If not plz mssg me. And also if I were to spin the engine with the crankshaft I wouldn’t take it out of timing because it’s not interfering with the timing belt correct?

[@carlodonnell146]

the new crank bearings for my 2001 dodge ram are variable when it comes to the oil groove and oil holes; I guess I wouldnt know if they are the correct ones until I start replacing them and match them with the old ones....3 has oil hole and groove, 1 has only a groove....2 are plane....both of the thrust bearings have a hole and a groove... two that are wider one has a hole and a groove and the other one has only a groove.....it isnt making any sense to me at this point, why they are all so different. Anyone else out there replaced the crank bearings on a 2001 dodge ram van 5.2L V8? can offer any explanation! thank you

[@carlmorgan2227]

Thanks I always wonder how that was done.

[@6string327]

hey man one question. I'm doing this right now with my Massey 250 and I'm not able to rotate the rods around. Do I have to remove the cylinder head so there's no compression?

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

You can try and pull the injectors but that sounds odd to me...

[@6string327]

I have a knock on one of the rods the second one has play up and down especially. It was a pain in the arse getting the oil pan off.. the front axle, radiator, left and right steering bars and more disassembly to get the pan off and loads of bolts lol. Yea I wanted to avoid removing the cylinder head but might have to if there's to much compression to turn the rods by hand underneath to replace the bearings. This is my first tractor repair and it's a diesel perkins by the way. So far I've set everything out neat to put back together!

[@6string327]

I got it all together, did a new head gasket too. Looks like a new tractor and runs like it too!

[@jasonbarber8862]

What are the mains torked at please ....doing it right now

[@youknomyname8890]

Excellent video, thanks.

[@mccrackenphillip]

I was thinking of something like this for my well keeped 93 S10 with 245k on it now. Note I have had lower engines before

[@slash36O]

youve gone this far how about rod bearings.good vid

[@josezermeno4705]

Really helpful vid!

[@amtpdb1]

Considering the bolts are 1use only, how do you go about checking the clearance on the bearings? If you use the old bolts you will not get the same torque settings with the old bolts that you will get with new bolts. How do you go about checking clearances? Thanks for the video.

[@themisunderstoodgorilla7030]

Not all bolts are one use only...? Most industrial engines have massive bolts that can be re-tourqued many times. It says it in the book. I know for a fact the head bolts on a Perkins diesel and a Nissan SD33 can be reused multiple times as per the workshop manuals instruction. Off the top of my head a 1/2in UNC Grade 8 bolt can be re-torqued up to 8 times... those bolts look bigger than 1/2 in and are possible Grade 8 or better i wouldn't worry about breaking one unless the Workshop manual said to replace them

[@Nicecalgarian]

Thanks man 😊👍🇨🇦

[@qwertyui90qwertyui90]

:'( didn't get to see the video on the connecting rod bearings tricks

[@qwertyui90qwertyui90]

Great Video, My question is, How to do this with a connecting rod bearing ? Without taking the head off of the engine

[@RangieNZ]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJPEfminh9-pidk

[@joe-hp4nk]

Doesn't the back of the bearing have to be oil free?

[@jkuri89]

DEBOSS! Im about to do a bearing roll on my 97 6bt ram. Some people say there are 3 torque steps and some say its a 2 torque steps and then 90* which one is it? Thank you.

[@cole-ih3vp]

how did it go?

[@johnnydngrs]

you're going to spin another bearing with all that oil going into the cap

[@sanjeevang9581]

Hi there.. When i want to replace engine crankshaft main bearing and rod bearing. Also when it is necessary to regrind the crankshaft to standard to 0.25..

[@williamdejesus3205]

Very very good and well simple explained..I liked your simple home tool the shaped shaved bolt.. W.V.

[@Y1Fun]

Nice guy😃

[@german_2jz269]

Doing this with the crank still in the block is only a temporary fix, not the right way to go about it but I guess it’ll work for a tractor

[@RyanBanman]

Thats how it's done on semi trucks too

[@saintsarecoming13]

When we in-frame trucks we roll in main bearings. Cant pull the crank in chassis. It's not technically right but neither is cutting counter bores and putting in counter bore shims to get proper liner protrusion. But to do it right would cost too much time and money and it wouldn't be feasible. Rolling mains in and using counter bore shims rather than stripping to a bare block and sending it to the machine shop can go a million miles just as easy as doing it the technically right way. It's all in who does the job.

[@rickcockrell2425]

Dont put oil on back of bearing shell thats a nono

[@liberalismcerebraldysfunct455]

I saw that right off

[@ram_diesel_power6039]

The only problem with doing it dry is you may gall things up when trying to roll the back in. If you let things sit so the oil drains of and blow them off you won’t spin a main bearing

[@jaydeebrickey9071]

Wrong Rick ,both sides..

[@karlmurphy290]

@@YoungOzzy432 actually they don't. The crank is well above the oil sump. The oil is injected through the oiler hole into a grove in the crank side of the main bearing. This oils the bearing, but not the back side. Back side is supposed to be dry.

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

My car engine 3.8L how do you roll out the crank middle THRUST bearing? Will it roll out the same, with the shoulder edges?

[@freethevibez]

You too bro damn thats crazy

[@freethevibez]

3800?

[@TheChicagOP]

wouldnt it be easier just to drop the crank completely? same amount of bolts but less finniky. Serious question

[@benwong6654]

You'd have to take it off of the transmission first.

[@jonesallu]

Can you please provide more information on the degree-ing tool you used? I searched and could not find it. Thanks.

[@johndoe-wx4ih]

I agree; "this is the tool that I use,......" but doesn't say brand, type, and maybe where it can be purchased...

[@d.j.9961]

HEY BRO, This is my 1st time watching your video's & You have already shown more cool engine building technics & tricks then any1 I have ever seen or met!!! However, I REALLY HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME? I bought a 03 ford focus off a family member who said it didn't need anything!!! I have had to replace every part on this car!!!( brakes,calipers,brake lines,wheel bearings,timing set up,water pump,alternator & serpentine belt, LIST GOES ON & ON! It has a 2.0 dohc zetec motor vin3..I THINK IT NOW NEEDS CRANK BEARINGS! SO, I HAVE NEVER REBUILT A MOTOR! 1ST...SHOULD I REPLACE MY ROD BOLTS & HEAD BOLTS?? ALSO, I DONT HAVE ANY MEASURING TOOLS SO I GUESS I WILL USE PLASTIGUAGE? HOW DO I KNOW WHAT SIZED CRANK BEARINGS TO BUY? IM HEARING CHATTER IN MY MOTOR & ASSUMING IT IS THE CRANK BEARINGS? ANY ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRICIATED!!!

[@romangrzejszczyk3103]

7

[@ryankillingsworth7379]

Use a Kotter pin instead of bending a bolt and grinding. Y out a Kotter pin, faster, same size as the old being, etc... You are welcome!

[@darthvader4hire]

did the same job on a Chevy Astro 4.3L...that was a sandy beach with it in the car!

[@jamesflores9456]

how did it turn out

[@whappel007]

Cummins Yoda...handy video it is yes...thx man

[@Sbaileyrph]

Can that be done with a Cummins 5.9 in a Dodge Ram?

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

+Sbaileyrph Yes, any engine. Some engines you won't be able to do the front and rear main bearings as there are covers that hold the seals in place that get in the way. They take the least amount of abuse though.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Problem with certain year rams is getting the oil pan off...

[@YT-glockstreamer]

How do u take off the side bolts on hemi engine it gets side and bottom bolts on hemi engine

[@plowboy7700]

It's 90 to 100 degree on the the rod bolts. Not 90 and then 10. It gives you a little leeway in the torque. I have put a lot of Deere engines together.

[@jasonbarber8862]

What are the mains to be

[@plowboy7700]

@@jasonbarber8862 150 ft lbs

[@jasonbarber8862]

@@plowboy7700 150 lbs plus 90 degrees?

[@plowboy7700]

@@jasonbarber8862 no. Just 150.

[@jasonbarber8862]

@@plowboy7700 thanks so much man

[@fatwalletboy2]

did that cap come from the shop with the peak curled up so close??? LOL.

[@231mac]

You mean the 'bill'?

[@jacaughron55]

can we do it this way w my 97 blazer 4x4 w engine all installed?

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

cross member might get in the way but if you can get the pan off, you can do a bearing roll

[@jacaughron55]

+DEBOSS GARAGE ohhhhh ok may be a little tricky but possible correct?

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

yep

[@jacaughron55]

+DEBOSS GARAGE ok cause the mechanic that did the head work and rebuild I think is teeing to pinch me for money and way over shoot the job

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

You cant trust us mecahanics....

[@wookmoney8753]

How long does it take

[@roopepeltola6103]

That cap says it all...

[@mariobombin219]

Can u also change the thrust washer that way

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

yes

[@mariobombin219]

Yeah but you wouldn't be able to change your rear main seal right

[@mariobombin219]

That was a bad ass way to get the top bearing out

[@ousmanfadera8310]

amazing and professionalism inquires for sponsorship on intense/voluntary training in your renounce and reputable workshop, however, also looking for old model EBRO tractor and MASSEY FERGUSON tractor 175 new standard crankshaft or used second hand standard crankshaft for both above mentioned tractors. CURRICULUM VEATAE C.V. OR RESUME

[@tnt0664]

did u sit on ur hat to make it a taco?

[@poochiepoo4696]

Cool!

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

28100 Torque Angle Meter kit.com/debossgarage/dg-toolbox/148062-lisle-28100-torque-a

[@rickcockrell2425]

But a good video thanks

[@daveevans3729]

Oil on rear of bearing not good there should be zero oil on rear

[@ham522n]

What is with the hat...I gotta ask lol

[@reble_uwu3405]

Fuck if my “air filter is too dirty” damn

[@ilikit44]

1:38

[@johndoe-wx4ih]

I understand the 55 ft lb torque, but the 90degree , 10 degree portion; don't really understand that part.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Its whatever the manufacturer recommends. This would be a torque to yield. A certain torque and then another set amount of degrees.

[@richystar2001]

ICE engines suck...can't wait for full EV's to be the norm