INDEXING THE DISTRIBUTOR ON A RENIX JEEP

[@1212onfire4jc]

I wanted to thank you for taking the time to make this VID. I had just replaced my head gasket and had back fire issues I couldn’t figure out. Replaced everything. Between your vid and cruiser54 I was able to get the Jeep to run like a champ!! It also fixed my overheating problems I had. Thanks again!

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

You are very welcome it's awesome to see my videos helping people. People like you are why I do these videos. I have had multiple issues on finding a video that helped with these kinds of problems so I figured I'd just film what I found to solve the problem and procedures to accomplish that. Glad to see you jeep running great again. 👍

[@derekbiltjinitis9653]

Thank you so much for the video brother this fix my problem. I couldn't get the darn thing past a 1,000 RPM without it backfiring. I used a timing light prior to doing this modification and found my mark on the dampener was way off it wasn't even registering anywhere near the timing marks after this modification starts like a dream and backfire is non-existent thank you very much again, I wish you all the best on your project.

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

That's awesome man I'm so glad you were able to get it fixed and I'm super happy that my video was actually helpful. All of us Renix guys gotta stick together. ✊️✊️✊️

[@Mauser1965]

It's been decades since I've did a distributor (MSD) upgrade, but this coverage reminded me that I used two different colored paint markers. One on the outer distributor housing denoting number one position, and the second color the denoting starting insert position as the rotor shaft will rotate when pulled/inserted. I will consider myself lucky thus far as both of the Renix XJ we have can be started from reaching in the drivers window and turning the ignition key to which they start right up. But the information you covered here is appreciated and something I shall keep in mind should things change. Thank You. 😁✌

[@bradwatts5540]

Thanks man good info

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

Happy it he helped with your project.

[@themidnightrdr7292]

Does the ground signal to the pcm and ignition coil come from the distributor being bolted down to the block?

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

No the ground signal to the PCM comes from the massive grounding Bolt that your dipstick bolts to for the engine oil they'll be a bunch of ground wires bolted to that connection that's where Chrysler decided to put it for those years

[@walterkirsch3324]

Won't the computer and the crank sensor on the back of the bell housing prevent you for being being able to make manual adjustment? I have a 1999 XJ and although it runs fine now, I do miss being able to manually advance the timing.

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

No not entirely there is a certain amount of adjustment you can make that won't screw anything up because it's Rinx and it's much older system you have the ability to do that because the factory wasn't able to set it properly there was too much room for error so all you're basically doing is narrowing that Gap so that your timing is set properly and the distributor in the computer are not guessing where the rotor is the newer Cherokees you don't want to do this modification to because they changed the entire electrical system and the computers so that the timing is locked in.

[@walterkirsch3324]

@@dirtgenixgarage956 What is this Rinx you are talking about? Would I be able to fine tune my 99XJs timing by doing this modification? Thanks

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

Renix is the style of motor and computer combination that they used from the first xj's up until 1990 after that they changed computers and now have more current up-to-date stuff that you don't actually have to tune and no I wouldn't do that on something that new like I said before your computer is not going to have as many problems guessing the timing that the renix did because renix is a much older electrical system it was inherently flawed from the get-go and Chrysler knew that which is why they changed the electrical system in 1991.

[@miniemouse2750]

Hola, tengo el mismo problema con el rotor, lo tengo en la misma posición que sale al inicio de éste video. En el manual dice también que se lo puede arreglar con un desarmador. La pregunta es no tiene que ver con la cadena de tiempo y el carro me ha perdido aceleración y demora en arrancar

[@soupernova6131]

Correct me if im wrong but doesnt the renix system correct for up to 20 degrees off? Do you have the technical bulletin number so i can read it over?

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

Sure thing the TSB number is: 18-53-88 where it explains that an ignition crossover might cause bucking or surging and the fix for the issue. It does not always happen to every 4.0 owner. But if you already in there servicing the thing, it doesn't hurt to go the extra step and perform this procedure if you feel confident in your skills. Noticeable gains would include smoother running and a little less cranking time than the normal 4.0 jeep engines would experience when starting up. The ECU will correct to an extent but there is a little more to it. The ECU is able to "guess" where the rotor is in relation to the terminal, which is why the contact surface area of the rotor is so large. You can see in the video that the actual contact on the rotor is quite large when compared to say a SBC or SBF. I have mentioned in past videos that there is a guy out there by the name of cruiser54 who has an entire webpage dedicated to renix bugs and fixes for literally the entire engine and electrical problems they have. Here is the web page: www.cruiser54.com Very highly recommended and I have learned a ton about renix from this site. Cruiser54 Mostly Renix Tips: Cruiser54 does a phenomenal job at explaining this, I pulled this from one of his post on jeepforums: "HERE’S WHY DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING IS SO IMPORTANT: Distributor indexing explained: For clarification though, that’s not a cam sensor inside the Renix dizzy. It’s there to fire the injectors sequentially with the firing order. You’ll never notice if it went bad because the ECU will try to “guess” where it is and does a heck of a job at it. As for the “timing”, it is controlled by the ECU. Ever notice how wide the tip of the rotor is? Try and wrap your head around this: When the ECU yells “Fire” to the ignition control module, where is the rotor in relation to the dizzy terminal? Not to the terminal yet? Past the terminal too far? What happens to the spark/secondary ignition strength when it has to jump the Grand Canyon in comparison to shooting from a rotor tip? Poor ignition performance, bucking, jerking, longer crank times. The factory was aware of this and issued a Technical Service Bulletin on it. This Tip, #13, is a condensed version of that factory TSB. You wouldn’t believe how many we found out of whack when I worked at the dealership. Yours is probably messed up also. RARELY did we find one set accurately."

[@angelsanchez9855]

Im confused did you put the first cylinder at top dead center to tune the distributor? Or do i just open the distributor and start on the tuning?

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

Cylinder number one must be at top dead center before messing with the distributor. Otherwise your timing will get really messed up and cause more problems.

[@angelsanchez9855]

@@dirtgenixgarage956 ok thanks

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

No problem 👍 good luck on your project.

[@angelsanchez9855]

@@dirtgenixgarage956 uhhh i did everything and now my jeep i misfiring pretty bad

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

There's a good chance you weren't at top dead center on the compression stroke for cylinder one you could be a couple of teeth off on your distributor gear as well that would also cause the problem you need to verify that your placement is correct with top dead center number one cylinder on the compression stroke so when you rotating the engine over the cylinder should be coming up to the top not going back down when it gets to the very top and it starts to go back down turn it back until you're at the very top you can do this by putting a screwdriver into the spark plug hole and watch it move up and down or you can remove the valve cover and check for both push rods to be loose you want to make sure both of the intake and exhaust valves are completely closed on cylinder one if it's on the downstroke the exhaust valve will be open if it's still on the up stroke the intake valve will be open both valves on the cylinder head have to be closed once you've confirmed that you are correct in that position then you'll want to pull the cat back off and start over making sure you're at the number one firing position

[@abrahambarkhordar5572]

Where do you buy the clamp? Amazon link?

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

The distributor clamp is the factory jeep clamp that came from the factory. I just cleaned it up and painted it.

[@keniferusxj7047]

Good video...I was thinking of doing this on my 87’...did u notice a difference after doing this...nobody seems to say if it does help...thx

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

Thank you very much, I will let everyone know as soon as I'm done doing the rest of the work. I actually have not been able to start it since this video went live I am currently in the process of changing out the flex plate for the correct renix plate as the guy that put the motor together before me put the wrong flexplate on the engine. as far as whether it's going to help or not that's really in the eye of the beholder and how well you know your engine someone that isn't really super in tune with how their motor runs might not notice a difference at all whereas if you've been doing it long enough you can tell that it runs smoother or starts faster I have however heard that some people don't have any issues at all even though this particular problem would still persist on their engine guess we'll wait and see together how it runs and starts. 👍👍

[@sergioduenas1533]

@@dirtgenixgarage956 yes I'd like to know aswell. What degree its set at, test drive, is advancing beneficial in this scenario? I want my 88 to be as powerful and efficient working with what its got. Thanks bro

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

Thank you for the comment brother. I will definitely do a follow up when I finish the flex plate video on how well this change has helped. As far as degree I'd have to see about putting a timing light on it after I get it running. For this project I just put the motor at TDC on the compression stroke to set everything up which essentially starts everything at zero degrees. But because this is an efi system there's not a whole lot you can do to adjust timing. The ecu will try to adjust timing for any changes you make. This project is to better help the ecu know when to fire a spark that to actually advance or retard the timing like they did on the older cars.

[@ianbrowning590]

What hold down did you use to clamp down the distributor?

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

Just the factory hold down clamp that comes on the engine from the factory.👍

[@peterushbrook5270]

HERE’S WHY DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING IS SO IMPORTANT: Distributor indexing explained: For clarification though, that’s not a cam sensor inside the Renix dizzy. It’s there to fire the injectors sequentially with the firing order. You’ll never notice if it went bad because the ECU will try to “guess” where it is and does a heck of a job at it. As for the “timing”, it is controlled by the ECU. Ever notice how wide the tip of the rotor is? Try and wrap your head around this: When the ECU yells “Fire” to the ignition control module, where is the rotor in relationship to the dizzy terminal? Not to the terminal yet? Past the terminal too far? What happens to the spark/secondary ignition strength when it has to jump the Grand Canyon in comparison to shooting from a rotor tip? Poor ignition performance, bucking, jerking, longer crank times. The factory was aware of this and issued a Technical Service Bulletin on it. This Tip, #13, is a condensed version of that factory TSB. You wouldn’t believe how many we found out of whack when I worked at the dealership. Yours is probably messed up also. RARELY did we find one set accurately.

[@kirkdeal2619]

So Peter, are you saying this is a good idea or bad? I have a 2.5L in an 2001 and my exhaust manifold is glowing red hot. Didn't think to cut the prongs to fine tune the distributor though. Let me know to either. Thanks

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

It is definitely a good idea but keep in mind this modification as far as I know is only for the 4.0 6 cylinder engine I'm not sure if the same applies to the 4 cylinder as I don't have one but assuming the distributor and rotor looks similar and it has a very large pickup on the rotor you could possibly benefit from doing this modification as well. This modification was mostly intended to help with the longer cranking times and provide a smoother idle I don't know that it would affect your engine temperatures sounds to me like your engine is might be running a little bit on the lean side if the manifold is super hot like you say.

[@kirkdeal2619]

@@dirtgenixgarage956 Yes true but its all controled by the ECM. I can't adjust anything unless i have the ECM modified

[@peterushbrook5270]

@@kirkdeal2619 Read "distributor indexing explained" up above.

[@dirtgenixgarage956]

With renix it is a little different when you say "controlled" because of the tech that was used in renix the computer isn't really smart enough to dial in the timing perfectly like the newer computers are today which is why we do this mod to the distributor to take out most of the guess work that way the eck can find correct timing easier and not have as large of a window to try guessing at it. This mod is only for vehicles equipped with a remix ecm. The newer vehicles have a completely different electrical system that should not require this modification.