Input Shaping Made easy with a USB accelerometer!

[@aaron7545]

You clearly did your research and presented this topic far more accurately than I see on many other channels. No hand waving and attributing key functions to "magic." I appreciate the work and presentation.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thanks Aaron! Besides all the experience I've had with this system I also did do a fair amount of research to try and be able to convey the key points in a more approachable way. Thanks for the support!

[@csenior10]

This was the best video I’ve seen on the topic. You really took the time to explain what it is, what it does, and how to make sense of all of it. Thank you. Every other video talks you through it like you know everything about Klipper. Even the documentation is piss poor. Great job

[@PrintsLeo3D]

These topics can be really heavy so I try and dance the fine line of 'explaining it thoroughly' and 'not taking too much time' lol I usually find these videos go longer than I wish, but I don't ever want to skimp on knowledge or short cut on breaking it down. I appreciate you not only watching but letting me know this is helpful. Thank you!

[@CookieEliminator]

Switched to klipper today, had some trouble setting it up by using the most viewed tutorials on KZbin. Found your channel and fixed like all of the problems in few hours. Thank you very much!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Nothing makes me happier than hearing that! Klipper is so powerful so the more people that can benefit from it the better. I still have a lot more videos I'll be releasing for Klipper to try and help fill in the gaps. Thank you for watching and I appreciate you taking time to comment, means a lot!

[@beechFPV]

why is your footage jiggling.. i think you need to apply input shaping on your camera...

[@PrintsLeo3D]

😂😂😂 that's awesome!! Front runner for best comment on the video. I have the auto focus on, because I'm nervous that I'll set my camera up then sit down and record myself out of focus for 50 minutes. I'm still working on the whole process piece by piece and it will get better. Thanks for watching and for the comment.

[@andyspoo2]

I've not noticed that. Any chance you are in an earthquake zone 😂

[@L3X369]

I ignored this for a very long time, I just ordered my accelerometer to experiment with this. The results speak for themselves! Thanks for the video!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

You're welcome! This is really not all that difficult as far as a calibration goes and it can have a significant effect on print quality for you. Good luck.

[@L3X369]

@@PrintsLeo3D I just finished setting up my printer and finished setting input shaping using your tutorial (partialy, because I had a cheap chinese accelerometer board that I needed to desolder a part in oder to make it work). I can't believe how easy it is to to this and to play with klipper! I never expected my printer to have these abilities! Thanks for the tutorial!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

It's crazy right ?! I want to make a condensed version of this video, because seeing a 40+ minute video doesn't make it seem simple, but it really is! Can't believe you had to do some hands on work to get it going either. Great job and I'm glad you made it work 👍

[@L3X369]

@@PrintsLeo3D I didn't mind watching the long video, is like watching a documentary about Input Shaping that answered most of the questions I wanted to ask :). But yeah, a shorter version focused on the automated process, could also be useful for some. Other youtubers make tutorials about this, but they barely even know how it works.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yea I try and walk the line of being informative but also brief. There are times when I edit down the pauses in my speech to save a few seconds 😆 I appreciate the support though, means a lot. Thank you.

[@Armor3dprinting]

i have been wanting to get input shaper done for so long and always struggled with setting up the adxl345. i just purchased the KUSBA and followed your directions and just got it set up with 0 issues whatsoever. i thank you very much! next up, PA!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

That's great to hear !! The difference you'll see with these two calibrations should be pretty apparent, happy you are making out with them! Thanks for watching and also leaving a comment !

[@Armor3dprinting]

@@PrintsLeo3D of course! Well deserved. Got a like (I was also subscribed prior lol)

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you!

[@Armor3dprinting]

@PrintsLeo3D of course! Sometimes it's not easy finding the info we need.being new to 3d printing and klipper it's awesome seeing these klipper walk-throughs laid out.

[@andypodmore6721]

The best Input Shaper video I have seen. Very concise and methodical. This is something I still need to do on my Klipper Ender 3s so going to order the kit now. Thank you for your great work and content.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you so much! I take a lot of time setting up these videos so that I can pack in the most info but also make it easy to understand. I appreciate the support, it means a lot when someone takes time to drop me a comment like this. Thank you.

[@andypodmore6721]

@@PrintsLeo3D Just received my KUSBA this morning. Did you ever et to post your article on the installation and use for it on your site? I can't find it. Or is it the same process as described in your video?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I'm finishing up the article now. The process is very much the same as the triangle labs , except the configs will look different. if you need an example config let me know.

[@drfailbucket]

Out of hundreds of video out there, you where truly the first one that would explain evry detail SPECIALLY how to understand the Graph 🙏🙏🙏 pleas pleas kepp up to go deep in details 👌

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you very much!! There's not a ton of information out there on these graphs, and what is out there is scattered. I love going deep on this stuff and I'm happy to be put it all in one place! Glad you enjoyed, and stay tuned this won't be the last deep dive on Klipper!

[@theboosted5hoe]

Best video to describe the Input Shaper graph. Hands Down. Much appreciated!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you Caleb! No matter how much we explore the ideas the graphs can always be hard to understand, so I'm happy if I shed some light on it for you !

[@LourivalZiviani]

Thanks a lot Leo. You really make the difference in 3D community with that videos. Cheers from Brazil

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you Lourival! I love making these Klippers and giving into these topics. Klipper is rife with information and ability so this won't be the last video ! Thanks !

[@GeekDetour]

Hi Leo, I will get this USB Sensor for my tests :) Excellent tutorial. BUT, I am even more interested in your Z-Belt printer... I am obsessed in getting rid of variations in layer height and lines in Z....

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yea the dual belted z modification is a really fun project. I'd say however you reinforce your z will likely improve z height variations (dual motor, timing belt, belted z, etc), but the belted version is by far the coolest. I have a video where I go over that if you're interested. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqCTfWevi6tjqdE

[@baxrok2.]

Incredible results. If I ever get into Klipper or if Marlin simplifies it this will be the way to go. Well done. Thanks!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yea this is one of those calibrations that you can directly see the results from, it's very powerful. I'm sure Marlin will get it soon enough, and this info should be cross compatible exception for the implementation side. Thank you again for commenting , it means a lot for the channel, and I always appreciate it!

[@philipgonzales3]

Awesome video, subscribed! Had ordered up a KUSBA: Klipper USB Accelerometer on Amzon. I'm running klipper on Ubuntu via WSL on an old Alienware windows laptop and your video walked me through the setup very easily. I skipped the parts about flashing the accelerometer as it came pre-flashed. I'll be sure to check out your video on Pressure Advance next!

[@lineuve]

Leo, excellent explanations about vibrations on 3d printer moviment and mechanisms.

[@3DPrintSOS]

Well done Leo. I made one of these using a RPi Zero and a MPU6050 and this looks like a GREAT plug and play option. Especially because there were a ton of gotchas to get the 6050 configured properly. The official documentation had a bunch of inconsistencies in it. Anywho, great job explaining everything.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thanks Fedor that means a lot!! I had a whole portion on alternative devices and including ones that used a pi to become portable but this video just got so long I couldn't include it lol I appreciate you watching and dropping a comment I know you're busy with all your renovations!

[@3DPrintSOS]

@@PrintsLeo3D I’m very familiar with videos that are too long. Hahah I can seem to make a short one even if I wanted to. Too much to talk about! Haha.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

You don't know how many times I've edited myself mid sentence because I was using too many words lol

[@kslifter1]

I have a Pi Zero 2w and I'd love to do the same to mine. Are there any guides that you can direct me to, to help me through the process? Or, could you a USB 2.0 to MicroUSB Adapter and use the board in this video?

[@yodhanhunter]

My ADXL comes tomorrow. Can’t wait to do this.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Awesome! This video looks intense, and I mean it is it's over 40 minutes, but once you get the hang of this you'll be able to test printers in a matter of minutes !

[@hellothere312]

Best video out there for this I’ve seen and you are very precise thank goodness for your videos

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you, thank you! I take time on these videos to try and make sure I cover all the necessary details while also being concise. I was hoping this video wasn't going to be 40 minutes long, but if I cut any more content I was worried I wouldn't hit all the main points. Thanks for watching and I appreciate that you took the time to leave a comment. That helps out the channel and me, and I really appreciate it!

[@mrmartinWR]

I really love the explanation about the subject,l seen couple videos about input shape and yours is the most clear and educational too ,thank you very much

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you Martin! This is a really cool subject, and I couldn't really find a source that had all the information I was looking for. There was definitely parts I had to leave on the cutting room floor (but will be in the article) but I'm happy with the information it has, and I am thrilled you enjoyed this!

[@infocusaerialmedia8041]

Found the issue. The USB to TTL converter that was shipped in the package was bad. I pulled 1 from another project to test and was able to get it working. I have sent Triangle-lab an email for a replacement. Hopefully they will send a newer USB to TTL converter since the you can not get Prolific chip drivers.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I am so sorry I am late to respond to this! That's unfortunate your unit was bad out of the box, and I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to help you diagnose this quicker. Hopefully Triangle Labs does the right thing and gets you a new unit as soon as possible. Let me know what all ends up happening and if you need help I'll try and be quicker in the future.

[@infocusaerialmedia8041]

@@PrintsLeo3D I received an email from them and I sent them a copy of the error I am getting. The said they will forward to an engineer. I also added that I was using a raspberry pi. Thanks Leo

[@wforider4786]

Excellent video again. Keep them coming!!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you so much, I plan on it so stay tuned!

[@JaimeGonzalez-tt4kk]

Great video and clear explanations! Thank you very much for your research and your willingness to share! I just calibrated my InputShaper on an Ender 3 s1 pro!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Awesome! The tools that Klipper offers are just so great, if I can help people understand them better, and maybe give them a try when they wouldn't, then that's just perfect! I'm happy to help and I appreciate you leaving me a comment 👍

[@NagashiChidorii]

Everything was great in this video except I wish you went into detail on what to do to setup the print for the cube correctly. Is it just vase mode? dont we have to adjust accel and other settings on the slicer to match what our matching recommended max accel or does klipper handle that?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

The max accel that we get from the testing is not what you should set your max accel to. That value just indicates the highest acceleration you can run, where that particular input shaper will still be effective. Finding out what your actual max accel values are is a whole other process (and video), and I am looking forward to going in depth on that topic very shortly. For the cubes I believe I just did run those in vase mode. I didn't intend for the printing process to be highlighted, just the results of Input Shaping, but it's good to know people are interested. I will try and be more thorough/transparent in future videos.

[@papaplintus]

I have the same accelerometer and I had to reflash today due to updating klipper. I ran into issues when flashing the firmware but was able to fix it by remove the -v in the stm32flash command.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thanks for the information! That's why I always tell people to check the comments because a lot of people's issues have fixes already from people who contributed. Thanks!

[@rmfberry261]

i think this is exactly what i need. using octo4a and octoklipper and had no clue how to set up input shaping. i think this will do the job

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yea Ryan, this is the easiest way I've found to set up input shaping. The video is long, but it's because I'm going through every detail. In practice once this is set up it's a quick procedure. Thanks for watching and if you need any help beyond this let me know !

[@rmfberry261]

@@PrintsLeo3D I have this video saved for reference. I really appreciate how thorough it is. Thank you for sharing this solution.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Anytime!

[@Kev7274]

Thanks Leo,informative as usual.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thanks Kev I appreciate it!

[@Pugwash.]

Great video. I bought a different accelerometer based on the same adxl345 that already has the firmware installed, so I was able to skip a few steps but otherwise found yours really helpful.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you! I'd like to make a more condensed video down the line for people in your situation, that already have an ADXL with firmware and don't need to go through those steps. I'm happy you were able to move to the sections you needed and found it useful! Thanks for commenting.

[@alainthire]

Hello Leo! I love you videos! I know I'm late, but...trying here I stopped at flashing the device (identical to yours). Getting a "Using Parser : Raw BINARY Interface serial_posix: 57600 8E1 Failed to init device." I don't know what to try...

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hey, thanks for watching ! I haven't ran into an issue like this myself. My first thought would be something is wrong with that small flash device that was sent with the accelerometer. I'd contact Triangle Labs and see if they have ran into this issue and maybe can send you a new unit. Let me know how it goes, I'd be curious the solution.

[@Psodracer]

After a lot of back and forth, I finally solved the issue. This error happened after a glitch during the Klipper.bin flash process with my Raspberry Pi 4. Go to the Triangle Lab website and search for the PDF file "usb-adxl345_firmware-flashing-on-windows-PC.pdf". Here is the tricky part, you'll not be able to click on the download button STM32CubeProgrammer because the communication with the module through the COM port is not active. So you will have to hold the boot button and press the reset button during 1 second and then, push the download button in the STM32CubeProgrammer software. After 9 or 10 attempts, I was able to communicate with the ADXL345 and the flash the module. I hope is going to help you!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I am going to add this info to the description, awesome work! I don't know that I would have stumbled upon this. Glad it's working for you now.

[@juliehadley8336]

Another amazingly helpful video. Thank you so much!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Happy that this helped! This calibration can be confusing at times but it is really an amazing tool, and every time someone can navigate it better by using my video is a win for me! So thanks for commenting and letting me know.

[@YouBetterCallSaul]

Impressed you knew exactly what the data represents on the graphs especially when you could have just told us “select the value recommended” lol…btw what is the filament brand and color you used for your Ender mods? I love that green!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I am of the opinion that knowing why we do something is better than being told how to do something (if that makes sense), so it was really important for me that I was able to communicate what all the data represents. I can't remember the exact green off the top of my head but I think it was Overture ABS (maybe grass green?) . There might be a link in the description, I'm usually pretty good about that .

[@abhamber]

Well presented! No issues on my first attempt at this.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

That's great to hear! This is a really crucial calibration when we are printing fast, and getting it done without issue the first time around is big game! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@anbu94]

when adding !PC13 to the config, the "PC" is case sensitive. I did it lower case and it failed, went back and did upper case, it worked just fine. Might be obvious to some but could get missed by newer folks.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Ethan this is a really great point! I actually didn't even consider this, which is why these type of comments are so important, takes more than one pair of eyes to catch everything! Thank you so much for the input and I'll keep this in mind going forward if other people are struggling.

[@yaronskp]

Can you please do similar video about ShakeTune? It supposed to be the next level resonance diagnose tool...

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Great suggestion! I have had the ShakeTune github open in a webpage for months now to remind me to start a video on it lol Time is my biggest enemy with these videos, so many topics and so little time. Adding this suggestion to the top of the list as it's something I wanted to dive into myself.

[@yaronskp]

@@PrintsLeo3D If you have the ADXL35 set you are almost good to go. It's a simple installation. The belts stretch compare is gold.

[@6yjjk]

28:14 1e4 or 10^4 is 10,000, not 1,000. Easiest way for me to remember powers of 10 is that the exponent (4) is how many zeroes it has. 10^1 = 10; 10^6=1,000,000; 10^0=1; 10^-3=0.001.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Shoot, I felt like I went over this a few times to make sure I didn't make a silly mistake, and of course I must have lol thanks for picking it up I appreciate that. I am putting together (have been for months it feels lol) a text version and I'll be sure to double check this info for that article.

[@RaphaelRema]

Great video. Thank you for putting all this info together.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I am so glad this was helpful! Thank you for taking time to comment!

[@kailin1496]

Do you need klipper to be installed on the printer? Or could a printer running marlin still use this? Would it be possible to just run the input shaping protocol, get the vibration values and use them in marlin's implementation of input shaping?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

That's a very smart idea, but you would need Klipper to be installed on your printer. Mainly that would be to tell the printer to vibrate through the Hz spectrum and then have it carry that procedure out. The data that is gathered is kept on the Klipper host device (usually a pi or similar single board computer), so you could trick the brain into operating on another printer for purposes of data gathering, but the actually test that it uses is ran through Klipper. So in the end you would need to have Klipper on your 3d printer. If you're interested in something like that and need help let me know! You can join the Discord server where a lot of other people have made the plunge into Klipper, or I can try and make a dedicated video if it's an issue a lot of others are having.

[@Hosteggy]

Doesn't the tape dampen some of the vibrations it would otherwise want to cancel out?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I haven't found that to be a problem. I have tried a number of different methods for testing this and even under extreme circumstances the vibration data that is collected always seems to be similar or the same.

[@sibujacob977]

Hi Is this applicable to any 3d FDM printer ? What must be the firmware on the 3d printer to use the accelerometer

[@PrintsLeo3D]

This is video is dealing specifically with Klipper firmware. So all the steps and commands I cover require that specific firmware (which j would highly recommend lol). I know Marlin firmware does offer some amount of input shaping , although I don't know what the breadth of it is. That being said the concepts cover (ie. How input shaping works) is applicable in a general sense among any machine using it.

[@stolz5573]

Please help with a question: When i send ACCELEROMETER_QUERY I get values for x, y, and z. But when I send MEASURE_AXES_NOISE it returns values for x and y, but for z it says 0.000000. Shouldn't there be a value for z other than 0? Is this OK or what might be the problem? The SHAPER_CALIBRATE AXIS=X (and also for Y) seems to have worked properly. Thank you for your excellent videos - you are a great instructor!

[@dunkanmacready4766]

Leo, you are greatly misunderstanding coreXY idea, Ender 5 is cartesian, BambuLab is coreXY. CoreXY is faster and more precise because in cartesian one motor need to be moved with a head (look at ender 5, Y stepper is fixed, but X stepper moves). In coreXY both motors are stationary, just head moves.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I'm not sure if I accidentally called an Ender 5 a CoreXY printer, if I did that was my mistake. One important note is that they are both technically Cartesian printers, as they all employ Cartesian coordinates. So you're calling the ender 5 by its 'coordinate' name and your calling the CoreXY by its 'mechanical' name which is not a fair comparison. Obviously their kinematics do differ and it's an important distinction. Besides the stable motors that coreXY employs the routing of the belt is another important characteristic!

[@dunkanmacready4766]

​@@PrintsLeo3D Let me start with what I had to say first - you've made a truly awesome video. As for coreXY, I'm afraid you do the same mistake as I did till recently. "Cartesian" it's not about coordinates, they all operates in cartesian coordinates (corexy, cartesian and delta). Unfortunately, for some historical reason "Cartesian" was chosen as a description of a very specific *mechanics*, not a coordinate system. I finally got the difference, when asked myself, why do we need coreXY, if I can just rotate model by 45 degrees. Then for straight lines both steppers will be involved as on coreXY. But the difference is in belt system, where steppers are not moving at all and do not contribute their weight into inertia. "Cartesian" requires one stepper to move along the axis. CoreXY - don't. They both operate in cartesian coordinates.

[@Willy_LGM]

Help! It shows that the flashing is done (looking the same as yours), but when I plug it in with USB-C, the PC13 LED doesn't come back on. What do I do? Thank you!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hey! The few other people I've helped that had this same problem all had set up the firmware image wrong. Just go back and double check the image is correct (especially the gpio section).

[@VinCarbone]

Any USBC adxl345 Accelerometer will go for any kKlipper 3d printer?

[@jeffm2787]

The Duet boards now have input shaping and accelerometer support.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Oh wow that's great! I thought duet had some form of resonance compensation already, but either way I am glad they are getting access to these sort of tools. Thanks for sharing !

[@mszoomy]

I haven't gotten into Klipper yet, I'm not very good with that aspect of 3D printing, it's to much like programming to me and my brain just doesn't deal with it. But damn this is another fantastic video Leo. You always so good at explaining this stuff

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you so much, and you do not give yourself enough credit!! I have seen the models and post processing work you can do, and compared to that copy and pasting some lines of text should be easy! As always I appreciate you taking time to drop a comment (and some motivation), and I am glad you're part of the Discord crowd now!! Can't wait to see what you're working on next!

[@Digitallifeconcepts]

klipper does take some more time and a bit of research and dare I say troubleshooting. So I think it maybe something to read upon if you only have 1 printer and don't want it to be down for any amount of time. But Leo's video are the best klipper guides online. And there are a lot of helpful ppl on his discord ( including myself) that will jump in and answer question and help trouble shoot. I tried installing back in may and had no luck....tried again and (with the help from discord) that Most of my USB cable were charge only. So I swapped out 2 cables and boom I was up and running. Klipper IS a lot more calibration but the results and gained speed make it worth for me. And you can always flash back to Marlin if you hate it. IF the coding part is holding you back, I'd say 99% is copy paste from the description or one of Leo's articles and the other 1% can easily be searched online or just ask us in the discord. I knew very little about Linux, but between building Marlin firmware custom for my machines and installing klipper I'm getting better. But Between the Video's the guides and the discord it's totally doable. I'm NOT saying it's super easy, but it is super rewarding when you have it up and running. Also nice when I'm watching 3d print video in my living room upstairs and have an Idea and can design, slice and send to printer from there, no sd cards. My 99 cents.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

This feels more like a whole dollar than just 99 cents lol Awesome comment. I have been enthralled with Klipper for long enough that it's sometimes hard for me to take a step back and get a 'beginning& view of Klipper. So I appreciate this comment and the viewpoint you are representing, this is the sort of information that is invaluable to me and others. I appreciate you taking the time to share it, and of course I appreciate you sharing some nice words about me and my videos.

[@CChex09]

Hey, I appreciate your video and replies! I need more information about input shaping that no one is talking about. What max accel, velocity, and minimum cruise ratio do I use for the test? I have a 300x300 bed so im not sure if I should go for the 10000 max accel like everyone says because its heavy. Then I see people say you dont need to set max accel at all. I also see tons of complicated stuff in the klipper measuring resonances docs talking about max_smoothing values and such. but no videos ever go over these nor do I see anyone talking about them. Sorry to bumbard you with a ton of questions.

[@ThePrintHouse]

hey man, not sure if you know, but when your camera is on the tripod the entire screen is shaking

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I appreciate you commenting to let me know, another user actually commented the same thing. I think it's the auto focus on my camera but I can't be too sure. If you don't mind would you be able to tell me the time stamp in the video you're referring too? If it's a matter of bumping it that's one thing, but if it's the autofocus coming in and out then I need to make a bigger change. Thanks for looking out!

[@dannyrooster8554]

Nice video, but I'm total noob in this. I have Triangle ADXL 345, connected it, downloaded Putty in my Windows but I cannot pass through the IP address or my host name. It's either error and it closes or I just have black screen. What am I doing wrong? Thank you.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hey Danny let's see if we can get this thing working for you. You downloaded Putty, and when you open that program it prompts you have an IP address. If you insert the IP address if your host device (the one you're using for Klipper) does it allow you to connect ?

[@dannyrooster8554]

Thanks for reply. I hope I understand it well. I'm using my PC (same where my Putty is) for using the Klipper (the Fluidd). Do I put the IP of my PC or IP of the printer? When I try IP of PC I got error. When I try IP of printer, it connects but it wants login and password but don't know which one. Sorry for bothering you with this.@@PrintsLeo3D

[@Sushii132]

Where do yoi xonnect the adxl ? To mb or raspberry ? With host it should be the raspberry right ?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

The accel gets plugged into the host device, that's it !

[@normanmoreno4969]

Hey amazing guide for the install, just having an issue with mine. I've copied the exact same inputshaper.cfg and added the include line in my printer.cfg. However, I get an error saying "mcu 'USB-ADXL345': Unable to connect". I've tried enabling SPI interfance via PuTTy, but no luck. Any advise would be great!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hey Norman! When created the adxl.cfg were you able to get a serial ID from the device through SSH? Also if you were able to get a serial address to you copy and paste it into the .cfg and Save?

[@normanmoreno4969]

Hey, yeah got the serial ID from SSH. Same as yours in the video except it’s USB0. Copy and pasted that to my adxl.cfg. Pretty much followed your video exactly. Just couldn’t get it to run once’s adxl.cfg is included.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

OK that's great, means you were able to flash the accelerometer properly at least. When you unplugged and then replugged the accel into the host device are both of the lights illuminated.

[@normanmoreno4969]

Yeah, both lights are flashing after unplugging and plugging back in. I also tried reflashing the accelerometer but nothing still. Could it possibly be a defecting unit?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

That's weird because the lights shouldn't be flashing after a successful flash, they should remain on constant.

[@MorteXDigs]

after geting the results of input shaper what acceleration you set in your config?????

[@PrintsLeo3D]

The accelerations you use will not come from any of the Input Shaper testing. The accelerations that the input shaper shares are the MAX accelerations that you could use where the input shaper will still work effectively. Calibrating your max acceleration is a different test entirely. Of course once you do have you max acceleration you want to try and make sure it does not exceed the max acceleration the Input Shaper can use, otherwise it may not be effective. Does that make sense ?

[@101yen]

I follow your step until flash this triangle lab ADXL 345 accelerommeter. I press and hold Boot0 and press Rest, the PC13 light is off immediately. However no matter what I try, when I release Reset button, the light is come back right away. I am not able to go into flash mode. Is my accelerometer a defect one?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

That sounds like it's not functioning correctly. As long as you're continuing to hold boot while you release reset it sounds like you're doing everything right It still might be worth trying to use it for the time being because these do come with some version of Klipper pre-installed. For the long term I'd reach out to the company because it sounds like you will have flash issues down the road.

[@LeiahRobloxTocalife-gq6qf]

Thats good to know! Thanks for this information. I would try on all my E5+'s

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I'm glad you watched and happy to help! This can be a real nice advantage to have so you can keep those high print speeds and not suffer any unwanted noise on your models. Good luck and happy printing !

[@MultiHardPlay]

I'm using an old laptop ruing Linux for my klipper and I want to use the creality accelerometer that uses USB connection, do you think that accelerometer will work whit the laptop? Because I think that accelerometer only works whit the sonic pad

[@PrintsLeo3D]

That's the great thing about Klipper, it will work on whatever device is hosting Klipper (so long as it has the correct ports). So yes it will work. Now, Creality may or may not have made it difficult to create the appropriate input shaping section, but you should be able to reverse engineer the correct templating from looking at how it works on the Sonic Pad.

[@tabachtell]

When I plugged in the USB C after flashing, only one light lit up. Also my ls command showed no USB0 until I plugged in the flash device so I selected USB0.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

If after flashing, you unplug the flash device, then plug the accelerometer into the host device and only a single light is illuminating it leans me to think there was an issue with the flash process. I woule double check the connectors on the flash device. As for the USB0 that sounds like it's working properly. Whatever populated when you plugged in the accelerometer is what you should use 👍

[@tabachtell]

@@PrintsLeo3D I found a Cat 8 cable. Put on DuPont connectors and was able to get an SPI version ADXL 345 working. I have a KUSBA coming tomorrow. I’ve made my last order ever to AkiExpress. First a bent plate. Now a bad MCU.

[@EsotericArctos]

I love how plug and play Klipper makes this for us. Marlin has Input Shaping as well, but you have to know or calculate the data to add into the firmware. Stil ldeciding if it is worth it on my Ender 5 though as I have not yet seen any particular resonant frequencies during test prints. I think the limitation Marlin will face is the limitation of the control board and lack of power and memory on the control boards. The device I was looking at was KUSBA, but the Triangle labs device almost looks like a clone of that device so I imagine it works well.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Just like in your recent comment you hit the nail right on the head! I am late to reply to your message (and I apologize for that) but I wonder if you decided to take the plunge with your Ender 5. I have used both the triangle labs and KUSBA and can vouch for both of their performance. Although I will say the KUSBA seems to be a little more finnicky and has given some users more of a hard time. They both get you there but the Triangle Labs does it a little easier.

[@EsotericArctos]

@Leo3D I bit the bullet and went for Klipper and with the stock hot end it made little difference over Marlin 2.x versions. There are two big advantages with Klipper though. The use of Klipper Screen on a touch screen at the printer gives a much nice UI at the printer. The second is the remote control without needing Octoprint. There are some subtle differences as well, like getting a little extra speed while keeping good quality prints, but being a cube frame the Ender 5 did pretty good before. The ability to update parameters without recompiling firmware everytime is definitely a big advantage on Klipper also. Overall I will likely stay with Klipper. It's just more subtle differences rather than the "wow" that some will claim Klipper gives. Maybe would be better to upgrade the hotend and extruder before going for firmware changes, but this only cost me time as I had the Pi 3B and the 7" touch screen floating around from a previous project.

[@syviperz9385]

Am I going to have to run this same setup for 2 different printers each running a different Pi. Or once I install the firmware into the accelerometer I can just plug into any printer?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

You're correct you only need to flash the accelerometer once, but you'll need to make sure you set both pis up also. Which means downloading that numpy module (I did through ssh), and also each pi will need the adxl.conf configuration file. The file is the easy part because you can just copy and paste the same file for each pi (if that gives you issues you just have to double check the serial address for the adxl). If you have any questions let me know.

[@papasplace2]

Hows that Trianglelab USB adxl345 Accelerometer working for you after a month?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Awesome! Been working great for the time I've had it, and I've even been a little rough with it too lol forgot to remove it from the bed once and ran the printhead into it 🤣 that being said been working well and I am more than satisfied with the results.

[@papasplace2]

@@PrintsLeo3D Any idea when your going to do the other Klipper videos... pressure advance, max acceleration/max speed/max flow???

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Pressure advance is going to be my next video. Going to hit the Mac speed/accel/flow stuff as they all sort of rely on one another.

[@colincampbell3679]

Hi Leo, You sent me a link to have the Sprite firmware for the Aquila so I could run my high temp hot end at up to 300 C. And I asked you to tell me how to remove it and replace with the Alex improved firmware. But I hit a problem? I did the normal flash the firmware as normal to change it back to Alex's but when I checked the screen the Sprite firmware stayed on the system. I tried a 2nd time and again the sprite firmware was still staying on there? What is best to do t remove this sprite firmware as I need to have Alex's instead. Thanks keep the upgrading videos coming! 😉

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hey Colin, I remember ! Usually when you've flashed successfully before but it's not working now it's usually either an SD card issue or a nesting issue. For the SD card I would try first to reformat (Fat32/4096 bytes), or if you can try another SD card (and remember to format it lol). For nesting make sure there's nothing else on the SD card besides a folder named 'firmware', and the .bin file is inside. Also make sure to change the name of the .bin file as I believe the Aquilas will not flash the same file twice. So you can just append today's date at the end. Try that and let me know how it works.

[@NeoIsrafil]

If you're having trouble with that 2nd command with the ~/klippy-env instead try to cd klippy-env and continue cd-ing until you get into bin, once in bin do the " pip install -v numpy " part (no quotes) . it should work. Took me a while to figure out that octopi has its files a little differently organized so the command kept failing.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Awesome addition , thanks for sharing this! My videos show how one person was able to navgate any given calibration, but my way isn't always the best or repeatable. So I thank you for sharing this!

[@tabachtell]

I could not find any place in your website to copy and paste the commands.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yea unfortunately I haven't had time to finish an article for the website. All the commands should be in the description of the video for your copy and paste-able pleasure. If what you need isn't in the description let me know and I can email it to you.

[@tabachtell]

@@PrintsLeo3D I’m trying to get the exact same (as yours) USB ADXL345 to work on my Vcore 3.1 running RatOS. I’m following your video exactly but I get nonsense when running the ls command. I have not flashed it since it came pre-flashed but I think that’s my error. My version of Klipper is unlikely the same. Do you have to reflashed it every time Klipper is updated?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

There are times when the Klipper versions not matching can be an issue, and if this continues for you we can look at that and probably flash the adxl. That being said if there is Klipper installed on the adxl there should be some response from the ls command. I remember another user running into a similar issue (and I think using the same OS). Let me dig through some emails and see if I can find the answer !

[@juancarlosvarasgarcia7284]

a 10 points tutorial, where can I buy that kit?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Oh my goodness Juan thank you! I get so lost in these videos sometimes that I can miss the forest for the trees lol Here is the link to the TriangleLabs product (and the KUSBA) and I am adding this to the description as well so thank you!! Triangle Labs ADXL accelerometer: trianglelab.net/products/usb-adxl345 KUSBA ADXL accelerometer: dfh.fm/products/kusba-adxl345-accelerometer-by-xbst_

[@efraingonzalez4642]

So far really like your tutorials, but I have a question: what about if you are running klipper/Raspberry Pi on a PC? can you connect the accelerometer to a usb port to the computer and get it running in Klipper? Also, how would you go about configuring this on a Delta printer, for example?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Efrain, yes you can absolutely use these accelerometers when a PC is the host device used to run Klipper! That's actually what is so beneficial about these USB accelerometers. Most all Klipper hosts have a USB port, which means these can be used on just about any device running Klipper (which includes laptops and computers)! I don't have a Delta printer, so I can't speak from experience, but all should be the same. The only difference is, like a CoreXY machine, the delta printers can leave the accelerometer in place while testing both the X and Y axes!

[@CharlieBaes]

I’d like to set klipper up on an android phone instead of a pie to save cost - have you got any advice on how I could get the accelerometer to connect to the phone once klipper is installed? - it is getting to the point where I am thinking of first setting up clipper on my main PC just to get the accelerometer info Any help is very much appreciated

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Charles I havent delved too deeply into running Klipper through a cell phone as a host device. I know it has to do with rooting your phone, and a lot of other hoops, as for getting an accelerometer to run I wouldn't really have an idea (besides maybe some massive USB C hub that can run from the phone. Starting it on a PC is a great idea! It's just as easy to set up as the other mainstream options. You can certainly gather accel data while on the PC and then use that info for your Klipper config tbag you're using an another device. If you're looking for a smaller portable option (other than a PC) than the Inovato Quadra is what I would recommend! I have a video on the setup with that device also.

[@CharlieBaes]

@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you for your quick reply and advice. I will look into the Invato Quadra!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

If you need help with it, let me know

[@clinthipfner6042]

Yah man you made this easily understandable. Thank you thank you, once i can get this tcl 20 pro 5g rooted i should be able to set up more than just octoklipper like i got setup on my tab 3. And i got the triangle labs usb adxl345 on the way and i should be good to go.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thanks for the comment I appreciate it! As for rooting your TCL and using the ADXL with it good luck! I would love to hear how that turns out for you!

[@clinthipfner6042]

@PrintsLeo3D forsure, I kinda struck out on rooting, the tcl 20 5g, can't seem to find a proper firmware for it, but I was able to get the newer galaxy tab E rooted. And I should be able to get through the issues I was having on my tab 3. It was just to old I think but not quite sure how using the accelerometer will go. I will definitely let you know if I get it all setup tho.

[@chadwilliams426]

I followed this step by step,once I query it klipper just shuts down. Please help.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

This sounds like a connection issue. Which device are you using ?

[@chadwilliams426]

@@PrintsLeo3D it was a bad board right off the bat. I got a new one all is right in the world again. Thanks

[@RugMncher]

I was able to flash my accelerometer but when I connected it to the host only 1 green led lit up not both of them. Do you know if I have to restart it or what?

[@RugMncher]

@leo reading older comments of the same issue. ill get back to you if i cant get it

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hey Ruben! Yea I'm sure you saw where I was telling people to take a second look at the image you compiled and flashed, more often than not that's the issue. Let me know if you need that help!

[@neoconker]

Just curious. ZV = Zero Vibration, what does the M in MZV stand for?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

MZV stands for Magnitude Zero Vibration. Thanks for asking, I'm glad someone found that stuff sort of interesting lol I had a whole section that went a little deeper on the input shapers and how the process actually gets implemented mechanically, but the video was already so long I had to cut it. Thanks for watching!!

[@thepyromaniac78]

Thanks for these videos, I really appreciate it 🙏.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Anytime Miguel! Happy to make them, I love digging my teeth into this stuff. More Klipper videos to come. Thanks for watching and for commenting!

[@anhydrouswater]

Almost like you read my mind.... exactly what I needed! Thank you!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I feel... pizza... for dinner.. lol I'm happy this came out just when you needed it, I try and make these videos informative and not too lengthy but sometimes it gets away from me, so thank you for taking the time to watch it! I hope it helped out and good luck!

[@RLBlizzy]

any help with installing my crtouch would be nice i picked it over the bltouch on my printer mainly due to the cable just being one

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Blizzy I'm happy to help anyway I ca! There's usually not much (if any) difference between setting up a bl touch and a cr touch. Are you running Klipper? If so what printer and mainboard?

[@RLBlizzy]

@PrintsLeo3D I haven't upgraded to kipper yet still trying to pick a soc it's voxelab aquila g32

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Have you taken a look at my bl touch video that covers the Aquila and Marlin firmware? That covers all the bases but it's a long video lol kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4OkmaSdoMt1g9E

[@sakamoto399]

will this work for pc as a klipper host?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

It absolutely will! That's the best part about Klipper it's uniformity

[@flyinghigh2646]

Thanks for the guide, I got same adxl from trianglelabs and I can see its in the serial port and made all the necessary settings in cfg files but I get "Unknow command: ACCELEROMETER_QUERY " any idea?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Double check you downloaded and ran all the necessary commands for the MCU you're using. That would be the 2 commands I ran at the beginning of the tutorial section.

[@lomantinovi4]

Thank you friend! You've helped me a lot.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Happy to hear this video is helping out! I have some other Klipper calibrations videos available and more getting finished soon!

[@digitalmisfit30]

i just received my axdl345 today, and i was able to flash it; however when i unplugged the flash usb from the usb port, removed the wires and plugged in the usb c cable, i still only got 1 led... So, when I type to get the serial address, it only shows 1 address and that is the 3d printer. i cant seem to get the 2nd light to work. Can you help me?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I'd love to try and help! Can you remember if, before you flashed, both lights were illuminated? My first guess would be a bad flash, or the image wasn't correct. Did you set the image up just as I didm adding in the gpio pins at the bottom ?

[@digitalmisfit30]

@@PrintsLeo3Dyes, when I 1st got it, both lights were lit.I though everything was going smoothly up until the step i got stuck on.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

It sounds like a bad flash maybe. When you put it into a flash state, the led should turn off to signify that. I would recheck your image setup and try a new flash. If you want to email me ([e-mail]) we can share some images back and forth and that can help diagnose it.

[@digitalmisfit30]

@PrintsLeo3D I have no issues re flashing. It completes the process. I can see the usb1 when it has the flash device, however; when I deconnect the flash device and connect the USB c, it doesn't seem to hold the flash.

[@digitalmisfit30]

@@PrintsLeo3D it was a bad flash. i redid the whole process and everything worked perfectly thanx Leo!!

[@chrisshaw451]

Can this be used on a FLsun Super Racer ?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yes absolutely, as long as you're running Klipper firmware! There might be a few minor differences for delta printers so I would check the Klipper docs for those specifications (www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html)

[@chrisshaw451]

@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you.

[@JasonSmith-pc6kr]

Can input shaping be done when having 2 printers connected to 1 raspberry pi? I keep getting errors, while installing the accelerometer through ssh. My only conclusion is that I have 2 printers on 1 pi.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

2 printers with 1 host device should not be a problem with these. For instance the printer I demonstrated on in this video is one of two printers hooked up to the same Klipper device (Quadra). What sort of errors are you running into?

[@JasonSmith-pc6kr]

@PrintsLeo3D Thank you for your help. I get an error when I ssh and enter, sudo service klipper stop. It replies with Failed to stop klipper.service: Unit klipper.service not loaded.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I'm not trying to sound funny here but is it possible the Klipper service is already stopped ? The only other time I have read where someone had this issue there Klipper install was the issue. Is this a fresh Klipper install or have you been running it for some time ?

[@JasonSmith-pc6kr]

@PrintsLeo3D I would think if the klipper service was already stopped I wouldn't be able to access it through Mainsail. I did a fresh install about a month ago. Because I can't get my webcam to work either, I threw in the towel and hoped a fresh install would help, it didn't.

[@JasonSmith-pc6kr]

Nothing about klipper has come easy for me.

[@birgernielsen9952]

Its a great video. Unfortunately I don't see a ttyUSB0 when first time running ls /dev/tty*. My host is a MacBook Air running latest Xubuntu and Klipper is otherwise running my SKR1.4T OK. I've been trying the make menuconfig a couple of times, but with no luck. Anyone have an idea of an error source?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Is there any change when running ls dev when the accelerometer is plugged in as opposed to being unplugged? Also what accelerometer are you using?

[@birgernielsen9952]

@@PrintsLeo3D Hi Leo and thank's for taking your time to answer. No, there's no ttyUSB* whatsoever. Further theres only light in the power led on the Trianglelab ADXL345 after plugging to the mac.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Have you tried flashing this yet? If so maybe you can email me the configuration you used for the firmware image ([e-mail])

[@birgernielsen9952]

@@PrintsLeo3D I'll try again tomorrow and make notes of the progress and let you know.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Ok, I'll do my best to help.

[@sakamoto399]

you are the best, well explained

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you very much! I appreciate the comments!

[@markippolito2]

Can’t find the article on your web site

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yea Mark I'm sorry but it's still a work in progress. A few people have asked for it but I haven't found the time to finish it. I'm going to do my best to get this done before the end of the month. Sorry about that .

[@markippolito2]

Thanks Leo

[@grasstreefarmer]

These look OK. I like the Fysetc portable input shaper. It connects to the PI or similar via USB, to update it you just copy a file to it via USB from your PC. Couldn't be easier.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Michael you're right these are certainly not the only options. A friend from the Discord uses the Fystec one also and speaks highly of it. These are all just leaps and bounds ahead of when you had to buy an adxl separately and solder on some headers to make it all work. Whichever you decide I think these simplify the process and help bring in a larger audience to improve print quality. Thanks for watching and importantly thanks for leaving your experience with these accelerometers!!

[@grasstreefarmer]

@@PrintsLeo3D Yes, just calling them OK was perhaps an understatement. I will certainly never go back to the multiple wires of my old sensors and any of these would be great. I guess its important to say that the Fysetc is more than a bit specialised for the Voron printers with its mounting hole spacing that matches the Voron printheads and might not suit other printers as easily.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

To be honest with all the praise I've heard for the fystec versions it may be worth it to include in the written article I add to my website. As far as never going back tell me about it lol I've bought so many different lengths of JST cables they have their own drawer in my toolbox lol

[@alexburk9018]

I can't seem to find the KUSBA directions. Did you put a link to them? I'm not very good with tech but I think I have everything set up for my KUSBA to do the input shaping.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Alex you're absolutely right I haven't published the article yet. I have it mostly written just need to tidy up some of the infographics. That being said if you need some help with the last 5% or so I can help you. I can share my config as well because the standard KUSBA config that's readily available on the GitHub is (I think) a generation behind the newer units.

[@alexburk9018]

@PrintsLeo3D that would be awesome. I had to have a friend get it mostly set up for me but neither of us know much about the actual input shaping. I can wait until you've got the thing written too. I'm not in a big rush, I just don't know what I'm doing. I was hoping it would be more plug and play with the KUSBA but it's harder than I thought.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I would say it's way more plug in play than having to solder and connect an adxl yourself but there's still some steps you need to get right on the MCU side. If you follow my video a lot of it will apply, especially the parts about using the adxl and the results you gather. The more kusba specific stuff will be in the article though !

[@alexburk9018]

@PrintsLeo3D sounds great. I'll keep an eye out for the KUSBA material too. I'll let you know of any specific questions I come up with. Thanks for doing this all!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Of course, I love doing it! I appreciate you watching, commenting, and reading my articles (when they're there lol)

[@nickskorner6009]

If you are trying to flash the KUSBA using the guide on the website and get the "Unknown initial pin 'PA14' ... Error 255" Make sure to deselect the GPIO pin in the klipper firmware.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Are you referring to the guide on my website ? If so I will add this information to that section to let others know. Thanks !

[@nickskorner6009]

@@PrintsLeo3D Yes I was using your guide. Your guide does specify to set the image exactly like. It was my mistake not realizing I had it checked. If you used the firmware image tool to flash klipper, that GPIO pin might be selected at the bottom. It took me like 30 minutes messing around to realize I had it checked because it was towards the bottom. I was a bit tired lol. One other thing I would recommend is running (straight from klipper documentation): - sudo apt install python3-numpy python3-matplotlib libatlas-base-dev libopenblas-dev I just ran and had some issues due to libopenblas not being installed. For some reason I also had to install matplotlib again as well, not sure why. - sudo apt install python3-numpy matplotlib libatlas-base-dev I really appreciate the guide though Leo. I love your content, thanks for all the help.

[@jamescullins2709]

very good video, answered my questions Thank you

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you! I want to make a shorter video to condense the knowledge but for now this 40+ minute slog is all I can offer lol glad it helped.

[@kamilsoccer2009]

I can't seem to find the KUSBA article on your website. I keep getting "Printer is not ready. The klippy host software is attempting to connect. Please retry in a few moments.". When I put # [include adxlmcu.cfg] in the printer.cfg, everything works fine after the restart. DId the firmware not flash correctly onto the KUSBA?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

The config file is going to look different for the KUSBA accelerometer, so if you're trying to use the same one as in this video you'll get an error. I am going to be posting the article tomorrow in the AM as I am doing a long drive and will be working on it then!

[@kamilsoccer2009]

@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you, i'll look at it when you post it. I used the github documentation for the KUSBA v2, not the TriangleLabs ADXL in the video. Maybe I did something wrong, or something in the documentation is off.

[@Charlie-pw3yg]

Thanks for the vid!

[@PrintsLeo3D]

You're welcome! I hope this got it working for you and on the way to some nice prints!

[@crazytrutas]

Great video. Thanks

[@PrintsLeo3D]

You're welcome! Hope this helps understand some of the process. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

[@frankdearr2772]

Very usefull , thanks for sharing , great 👍

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Very welcome! Thank you very much for leaving a comment, it might seem like a small thing, but it means a lot to me. Thanks !

[@frankdearr2772]

@@PrintsLeo3D yours videos are great to improve knowledge about 3D printer, i like it 👍

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thanks I appreciate that, makes me want to keep making these videos.

[@infocusaerialmedia8041]

I purchased the same device. Im getting Failed to read memory at address 0x08000000

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Sorry I as slow to help on this. Let me know who the new unit works out.

[@KiLLiE2k]

@@PrintsLeo3D having the same issue, its failing to flash the firmware.

[@tmelliander]

Thank you for this informational video. I had one problem that got solved i thought i share. When flashing with command: "stm32flash -w out/klipper.bin -v -g 0 /dev/ttyUSB0" It failed saying "Wrote and verified address 0x08000300 (0.94%) Failed to read memory at address 0x08000300" on and on again at different %. Tried to plug the usb flash device directly to the pi without hub, usb extention cable. Also in usb 2 instead of usb 3 port. Same fail results. All worked when removed the "-v" command from the line like this: "stm32flash -w out/klipper.bin -g 0 /dev/ttyUSB0" It dont verify i guess but write the firmware and all done, works.🙂 Another thing. Please add your inputshaper.cfg lines in the description or a link to your site with it or something would be awesome😀

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thanks for the detailed comment. I thought I had my website linked in the description, but I wouldn't doubt that I forget it as on oversight as well lol I'll look through it now and add it , thanks!!

[@brokencreationlordmegatrol3037]

Oh good there are usb accelerometers thank feck I need one of these bad boys for my flsun v400 because it does not come with the input shaper and flsun does not sell their stand alone one

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hell yea there are! These are so simple, the days of soldering headers and cables and holding your breathe during the initial startup that you didn't mess something up are over!! These really make this process a breeze, I hope you have good luck with them if you decide to grab one !

[@glenncol]

Awesome

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you !! These Klipper calibrations are so deep and add so much to these printers! Thank you for leaving a comment, I say it all the time but it means a lot to the channel!

[@Fregaa]

Well, somehow I managed to get MZV 82hz max accel

[@AdrianAndreiRobert]

Double sided tape or blue tack will absorbe the vibrations. You have to hard mount it/ rigid mount it.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I definitely agree that blue tack or tape will absorb some vibrations, but from all the testing I've done I've never seen it amount to that much of a difference. While I would prefer to hard mount the accelerometer, tape or tack is such an easy solution that will provide the same or nearly the same results that I think it's a worthy option. Sometimes there's not a ready mount option and people sort of get paralyzed to even try this calibration, I do t think tape/tack are a bad option whatsoever. So I would disagree with the hard and fast "you have to rigid mount it", I believe it's preferable but not an absolute.

[@ru83n29]

good info, but your website banner is BIG and interferes with browsing your pages , annoying

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Are you referring to the top most banner? Unfortunately that one I cannot change. It tracks as you scroll and the size is not adjustable. Let me know if it's another one and I'll see what I can do.

[@ru83n29]

Yes, I have a 17 inch screen laptop and takes most of the screen. Can only see small area of instructions. Great and awesome work by the way. Your information has helped me greatly. Thank you much.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Thank you. I am going to look into a way to try and hide or lessen that banner. There's only so many options that are editable on the website and for some reason I think that banner size is not one of them. Either way I appreciate you pointing that out and I'll see what I can do.

[@PatriciaEstrada88]

That's definitely not a 200mm test cube. More like 50mm. Threw me off when I changed the dimensions in cura and it took up almost my whole bed.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Oh no! I'm sorry, I probably said 200mm but I meant 200% scale. Yea a 200mm cube on that Enders bed would take a lot longer.

[@JoseBerruezo]

👋

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Hey Jose!! I appreciate the comment! Whether it's a question, a critique, some praise, or an emoj! I know for some people especially they may feel nervous about writing a comment or even a question, so dropping an emoji shows me you care enough to show some support! Means a lot , thanks !

[@halcyonspree1523]

is it me or my eyes are seeing things. The video seems to be shaking???

[@PrintsLeo3D]

No I don't think it's you, I think it's my autofocus. Another commenter noticed it too. I have the autofocus set on for my camera, because I'm afraid of recording stuff completely out of focus, but because I talk so much with my hands the camera sometimes doesn't know where I am going to be lol I'm looking for ways to fix this, as I can notice it too and it's a little distracting. Thanks for watching and I very much appreciate the feedback!

[@halcyonspree1523]

@@PrintsLeo3D love the videos. And very informative. I am still struggling this weird extrusion problem. Where the dual gear extruder just randomly slips and leaves gaps and on walls there is visble semi hollow lines during extrusion slips. I tried increasing temp but cause to much stringing slow print and it slips more. Already followed your z-offest and bltouch/mesh setup. I don't know what to do now.

[@PrintsLeo3D]

When this happens can you hear the extruder skipping/grinding? Is this PLA and have you tried other spools? Maybe this is something we could diagnose via email (or over a discord?) because I'd love to be able to see the print defects and possible the extruder while it's happening. There's so many elements at play I would hate to start listing each one if I could be more accurate for you. Let me know if you want to communicate through email or other .

[@halcyonspree1523]

@@PrintsLeo3D i do not mind any communication. I guess discord would be a better interaction

[@PrintsLeo3D]

Yea discord is definitely is definitely quicker. There's a link in the description for discord and my email is [e-mail]

[@azaboppa]

Dude, you need to rename the video! Made easy?

[@PrintsLeo3D]

It's a long video and I do a lot of explaining, but if you compared this method (USB) to the original method where a separate MCU and accelerometer are needed (which includes soldering) you would agree it's way easier lol

[@jackykoning]

Bro really did 113 - 73 = 40 40/2=20 73+20=93 instead of (73+113)/2 73+113=186 186/2=93

[@PrintsLeo3D]

I try and break these ideas and concepts down easily. Sometimes when teaching things we can't always use the method we prefer, or the method that may seem the most efficient. We have to try and use a method that will be the most understood by people watching, even if it is not how we may normally do it in our own lives.

[@frostie9275]

How do I reach the result papers? it told me that the data was written to resonances_y_20241127_181056.csv but I cannot find it

[@noodl3d]

My dude... The video needs input shaping.... So much shaking/autozoom