Blades - Things I Wish I Knew Before??? | Must Know Info About Blades & Blade Sharpening

[@Northwooods]

As a fellow carpenter I am shocked by the lack of likes on this video. This is the kind of valuable information that most of us probably don’t think about, but yet has a huge impact on money and time saved. Much appreciated.

[@ChromeLuxx]

All sounds like work to anyone under 45 yrs old. Why work when they are all going to be a rich KZbin stars, or invent some POS and live like a Kardashian.

[@bret9741]

I don’t think most users know there are high end blades.

[@CraigularjJoeWoodworks]

⁠@@bret9741maybe. I think pros know pro tools and blades though. Home owners would probably think diablo is upper tier, so I agree on that front

[@tedd1091]

Dude, that was off the charts for KZbin - Well done

[@michael.schuler]

Excellent blade tutorial. Thank you. Many years ago I adopted a European strategy that has enabled me to maximize flexible use of my tooling: I specified 30 mm bore when purchasing all my high quality blades. At the time, I ran a German combination machine with 30 mm arbor; others in my shop have 5/8", 3/4", and 1" arbors. By use of the appropriate saw bushing (I buy from Amana), I am able to deploy any blade on almost any machine, at times maximizing the usefulness of certain specialty blades (e.g. triple chip.) I also had custom 30 mm O.D. collars machined, one with 5/8" I.D. and another with 1" I.D., that allow me to deploy my 8" stack dado on either table saw, RAS, or shaper. I run mostly Leitz and Forrest blades, purchased in pairs. Care and maintenance such as you present in this video have allowed most to remain in service for decades. Besides regular cleaning, another key to optimizing cut quality (and minimizing power requirement!) is the use of blade stabilizers, especially on lightweight table saws. With stabilizer diameter equal to as much as 50% of blade diameter, the improvement in the performance of a thin kerf blade is dramatic.

[@aspees]

When looking at the initial investment of buying a $50 blade vs a $100 blade you need to look at longevity of sharpness first. The Forrest/FS quality will outlast the Freud/Amana quality 2:1. It’s basically a wash in cost. However, when you get to sharpening you pay the same amount of money to sharpen cheap blades vs expensive ones. Every time you spend your $25 to sharpen the $100 blade you get a $100 blade. Sharpen it 5 times means you have spent $100+$125 = $225 to get $600 worth of blade which outlast the good quality 2:1. That’s without even talking about cut quality. Point being buy good blades they will last years of decent use. We always buy them in pairs. One is on the saw the other is either at the sharpeners or is sharp on the shelf.

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Well said!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Thanks for supporting this channel by visiting these affiliate links!!!::: My favorite Blades: Favorite Miter Saw Blade - amzn.to/3wJkEbC (Sub-Micron Grade Extended Life Carbide and 6 degree hook) I USE THE SM6300 personally NOTE THE LM6300 is not as high quality carbide and has a more negative hook angle. I think a negative 5 degree is ideal for sliding compound miter saws. Favorite Table Saw Blade - amzn.to/3fy6gNn Blade Cleaning Solution - amzn.to/3vLCIkY Blade Cleaning Brushes - amzn.to/2S2WWsb Blade Cleaning Plastic Container - amzn.to/3p3CQKr Rockler Blade Cleaning Container - www.rockler.com/router-bit-an...

[@charlesenfield2192]

When it comes to Freud, you have to distinguish between the red/Diablo blades, and the Freud Industrial blades. The Industrial line is definitely worth sharpening.

[@josephmerritt1411]

As an amateur, I have learned much from your videos. I am starting a new home build project and information from this video will be put to use. Your tip about blade cleaning will be also applied to the chain for my chainsaw. Similar issue with build-up on the cutting surfaces.

[@mikea7126]

I bought 3 FS Tool saw blades from a place called industrial saw blades which was next door to where I was working. This was in 1990. I still have them today and use them regularly. The are excellent blades and I would recommend them to anyone looking for good quality Blades.

[@bryanhall9996]

Well, I finally dulled the stock blade that came with my new DW716XPS. I bought an FS Tools blade to go with it based on your recommendations when I bought it a couple months back. Threw it in last night so I could finish the walnut miters on my builtins and make the cuts for my mantle. Without a doubt, the smoothest, easiest, cleanest cuts I've ever made. It can't even be compared to the blades at the box stores, it's leaps and bounds ahead of them. It's going to be a joy to work with, should increase my efficiency, and my clients will get better results in shorter amounts of time. Thanks again for an awesome video and recommendation Spencer!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

You bet. That blade spins so good on a 716. Probably my favorite cutting combo.

[@ericbaldridge4211]

Much appreciated. You hit every question I’ve had. No more box store bargain blades.

[@user-ed5jh3ff6u]

Matsushita was always blade of choice, cut better dull then most blades sharp, haven’t had good luck with reshaping, still have large inventory of pristine used blades, definitely going to try out your guys on one, high dollar blades make you cry if you hit a nail. Thanks buddy

[@anthonygerali7220]

Just ordered both the 10"& 12" blades from your links...Happy to support this channel!...Keep the awesome content coming!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Much appreciated

[@shelton0181]

I’ve just recently switched from Amana thin kerf blades to Ridge Carbide thick kerf blades. The cut quality is superior with the Ridge Carbide blades, hands down! I’ll never go back to anything less than a 0.125 kerf. Thanks for the video. Well done.

[@robertfrancis4876]

Ridge and Forrest great blades

[@1982nsu]

Excellent video. Another good reason for keeping blades clean is to prevent blade warpage 05:51 due to resin/pitch causing excessive heat build-up along the periphery of the blade.

[@Wooddust6]

good info. But one correction/disagreement. Freud blades are not the same as Diablo red blades (is they cheap big box store version). the Freud line blades are the higher quality industrial carbide blades which is what i use & they are great blades (years ago before they rebranded things they were synonymous, but now the Freud blades will usually say Freud Industrial and don't have the Red paint on them generally.). Not something you can buy at the big box stores.

[@williamcooper5009]

Just bought a Freud for my SawStop 3.0. Waaaaayyyyyyyyyy better than I expected. $60 at Rockler.

[@davidsherley2652]

Hi Spencer - as I’ve watched more of you videos, I want to comment again. I really like your take on means & methods - how you approach your work. Your balance of precision, efficiency and production repeatability is truly admirable. I recently came across your channel and have gladly subscribed. In my younger days, after college, I apprenticed with frame and later trim carpenters for roughly five years. I later went to work in commercial cabinet shops, first in production and later as a project manager. From there I went back to architecture (what I studied in college). My orientation toward working with the tools is similar to yours, but my experience is less evolved. As my architecture career developed, I moved around the country following commercial projects...and the tools went into storage. I’ve recently decided to settle in Eastern Indiana and gotten the tools out of storage. As I reconnect with my love for woodworking, I hope to synthesize my experience and develop a work style similar to yours. Keep up the workmanship and the videos!

[@DT11acs]

100K right around the corner. Well done fella and Hi from Scotland

[@kong_dong_usmc6651]

Great video, I'm glad I found it even if a few years too late. I learned a lot I wish I knew sooner as well.

[@1982nsu]

Another good reason for keeping blades clean is to prevent blade warpage 05:51 due to resin/pitch causing excessive heat build-up along the periphery of the blade.

[@YvonBolduc_Tip007]

Always great content. You are a reference in the field of finished carpentry.

[@screaminpotato]

Really helpful information! It shows how intentional and serious you take your business. It’s hard for some to sit back and perform maintenance but this shows it is necessary.

[@FredD63]

Great tips to know I use 80t and 60t blades most of the time

[@sprintspirit8457]

Great way to end a Friday!

[@philkirkham1000]

Thanks for the info, from UK and blade sharpening isn't big over here which is a shame so interesting to hear others perspective.

[@tommyknightly1659]

Great knowledge and high quality work, thanks Lewis

[@A_Plus_Finish_Carpentry]

Great content in this video. Keep up the good work, sir.

[@lindamarsden8024]

Thank you, this is a fantastic video with invaluable information.

[@BenMarvin]

Oh man, that sharpening service you use is way cheaper than the ones I've been finding. Def gonna send in some of my blades to them.

[@stevesakotic8280]

Hello Mate. Great video. Excellent presentation. I found the content of your presentation very informative, helpful and useful. Well done Mate!! Automatically subscribed!

[@Robertdiamondking]

Couple things: I think Diablo has gotten really good. It also depends on your machine. I have a Forrest woodworker 2 and it’s awful on my table saw. My guess is it only works with a much more powerful machine. I’m not knocking it. Just that sometimes a thinner kerf is better.

[@iamjackalope]

Keeping your blades clean is a must. I just cleaned about half a dozen blades that had been relegated to the dull blade pile by others that have access to my table saw that came back to life after a good cleaning. I have been using the Freud blades for a bunch of years professionally and I have had 0 problems with them. I have them sharpened all of the time and they come back good as new. But then again I try and stay away from thin kerf blades especially on my hand held circular saws and even more so on my beam saw with it's 16 5/16" blade. As a matter of fact I have a whole stack that are ready to go to the sharpener right now. That's partly why I clicked on this video. Some of them where being tossed out on job sites and I grabbed them from the trash bin. They have never been sharpened before and I'll send them in and have a nice sharp blade for a third of the price when I get them back.

[@Surmoka]

Curious about your long-time experience with Frëud blades. They are the premium versions of Diablo and Diablo is already winning practically all tests left and right. Freud is supposed to be a very high quality and durable brand. I don't think a Frëud with 100+ teeth as the industrial blade would be any cheaper.

[@adventurebegins1]

Pressure treated leaves alot of pitch. You trim on inside but treated gums a blade up. I buy throwaways when doing decks,gazebos,etc.

[@BigRed-]

Love your content man. You really know what you’re talking about. I’ve learned so much from you, thank you!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

My pleasure!

[@frankkenny4873]

really enjoy your vids they are very helpful

[@geraldlessard7446]

Great informational video. Keep them coming.

[@timking7496]

I Have less expensive Blades that Ive had sharpened for many years it saves me about half the cost of a new Blade whether its a 24 tooth Diabalo or a 120 Old Ham ( Ive had over 22 years) and is still a great blade I do a wide variety of installs more with flooring and misc trims just had almost a dozen resharpened for around 130.00 some with large # of teeth and have used A-1 of Kearns Ut for over 30 years there reasonable and Local for me

[@jt-eb4sp]

This is one of the best videos I have seen. His presentation is flawless and his opinions are right on. Great job.

[@pattihudson6962]

I have been sharpening my Dewalt blades with my Foley Sharpener for years. Always have excellent results.

[@DadzorRules]

Outstanding video! You just acquired a new follower. Thanks for the great info.

[@wayneknight8285]

Thanks

[@jamesurquhart1289]

Spencer, Really enjoy your channel, your videos are well thought out and really show your knowledge base. As an Engineer by trade I enjoy the way you make a process out of the job, the stop block video series really demonstrates how you recognize efficiency for your company while increase your speed an accuracy on the job. Look forward to more informational videos.

[@kevinparmelee5609]

Quinn and FS Tools just got 99,000 new customers when this video posted

[@InsiderCarpentry]

I'm happy to send business to good companies that help us do our job better.

[@pavelnesterov5554]

At first I was gonna say, you are NUTS paying $180 . For a blade. But after listening for the reason and use of it. I will be buying these blades too . Thanks much

[@davidsherley2652]

Great video Spencer! I’ve been investing in quality blades for some years now, but it never occurred to me to clean them or send them to a high precision sharpening house. Excellent suggestions!

[@m3hsid10]

Awesome video! Thank you for the great content!

[@bigchief113]

Excellent content

[@jimanderson4495]

GREAT content. Thanks

[@Wood_Slice]

I think what you meant to say about throw away blades is “DIABLO’” blades NOT “FREUD” although same compnay one is a throw away the other professional/industrial/re-sharpenable

[@billesposito2112]

They're made by Freud.

[@Tool-Meister]

I’ve used what I consider professional grade blades since 1985. I’ve tried several brands and a couple of pro sharpening services. I’ve used Tynrue, Ridge Carbide, Forrest, etc. I do own a couple of Freud and DiabIo blades but found their general purpose blades don’t really compare to the pro grade blades over time. I too keep a couple of “beater” blades on hand for really nasty stock including MDF sheet-goods. I still have my original 1986 Forrest Woodworker II. It’s been sharpened by Forrest many times . It’s been used on three different table saws including a 1-1/2 hp contractors saw and my 5hp cabinet saw. I concur. Invest in one or more pro-grade blades and you will save money overall and have superior results. My experiences with miter saws varies somewhat. The factory blade on my mid-80’s Porter Cable miter saw was awful. I replaced it with a Ridge Carbide 50 tooth, 10”, chop-saw blade. It was so terrific I’ve kept the PC for special setups, etc. On the other hand my pro blades purchased for my Festool Kapex saw have not proven to be an improvement over Festool’s blades. I’ve had my 60 & 80 tooth Festool blades sharpened by Forrest with excellent results. Your video is excellent advice for so many craftspersons wondering if it’s all worth it. I echo a resounding YES! Even hobbyists should buy pro-grade blades and have them sharpened by Ridge Carbide, Forrest, or equivalent sharpening services. It’s actually one of the highest return-on-investment upgrades they can buy!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Thanks for the reply! I think the kapex is a unique saw in the way it spins the blade. It is underpowered compared to most miter saw. I always ran tenry silencers on my kapexes and they were soso blades. Festool may be the one exception in that they actually give you the tool with a high quality blade on it.

[@whales302]

Love the Tenryu Gold Medal blade and I've run a lot of blades. Super quiet and deadly sharp. I agree on sharpeners....none of this matters if you don't have a high quality knowledgeable sharpener.

[@gavinfeargrieve4874]

You pretty much summed up everything I've been thinking about blade selection/ cleaning and sharpening. It's just nice to hear another professional come to the same conclusions! And, yes- the sharpening service is really only worth it when it's done by robots.

[@randyplatz68]

Great Info. As for Freud Blades you have to use their Industrial full Kerf blades. Not the thin kerf Diablo blade your showing.

[@AshOnTop23]

Miter saws and saw blades are things where I think homeowners who are serious about DIY really benefit from spending money on high-quality tools. I'm going to trim out maybe 10 rooms in my whole life, I need any advantage I can get.

[@colinrussell4707]

Great video as usual!

[@philmininni5981]

I remember back in the 1980's Freud was the premium blades to get. As a newbie and making fewer dollars/hour than my later years, I couldn't afford them. Now I am retired and thought I was getting better value with the Freud blades. there was a long break between then and now for me. I am still a newbie and wonder if I should return the thin blade I got a while back. Your comments about wobble made a lot of sense. An my riving knife would need to be changed out to match thinner blade. Great info about sharpening. Thanks!

[@T.E.P.]

You share sooo much through your experience and always improving and thinking about improvements ... and your channel has been a huge joy here on KZbin. Cheers Spencer. Your excellence is inspiring

[@InsiderCarpentry]

My pleasure 😊

[@marksherrill9337]

I hate thin blades. They warp from the heat and that was that.

[@radurobert1]

Makita Makblade Plus with 100 tooths beats your Quinn and FS Tools blades and the cuts will be at least equally clean . I say this because it seems almost indestructible .I cutted over 10000 cuts thru 10 cm x10 cm thick pine and still cuts....

[@a_w_bukhari7579]

What microphone are you using? Seems much better than before. Thanks

[@jonellwanger7258]

🤔 most “Joe schmoes” end up running the bigger companies…. Like…. Mac started in a garage.. Amazon started in a garage.. I’m running out of my garage…. I still do my best.

[@diverdave4056]

a long time ago before track saws were invented ... I had to cut solid maple panels that were finished - face up with my Skil worm drive ... I asked the tool store manager IF they might have a saw blade that will give me the cleanest cut ? With out missing a beat , he showed me the TENRYU blades and he said , that YES they do cost more BUT they will give you the cleanest cut and they will last a long time before needing to be resharpened ! Well he didn't lie - every cut was perfect - no chips or splinters and no need to sand the cut smooth . Since that day I have only bought the blades that TENRYU makes . So unless your using a saw to do demo work - don;t waste your money on a cheap saw blade

[@gregorymacneil2836]

Excellent Video and channel - will support the links you provide

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Much appreciated!

[@bossHogOG]

It would be cool if the sharpener also lazered a tally mark on the blade so you could keep track of how many times each blade has been sharpened.

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Agreed!

[@jimleonardson4268]

You can buy a Fowler etching pen to put your own marks on the blade. I bought mine from KBC Tools. www.fowlerprecision.com/Products/Automotive-Kits/Fowler-Disposable-Chemical-Etching-Pen-For-Metal-72-730-005-0.html

[@chrisman3673]

My thoughts exactly

[@justinrehms4530]

I’ve never thrown a blade away. I’ve always taken my low quality blades whether chipped or dull to get retoothed with high quality carbide to be sharpened. I’ve even had my blades teeth redesigned for optimal use on my table saw or miter saw so they cut smoother and faster. I’ve been using the same saw blades now for 20+ years. Cleaning for sure helps them last longer than you’d ever think too.

[@rauladame2105]

Clean blades are a must. I also use the blade cleaning solvent. I wax my blades after I clean them. I have not had any more problems with pitch/glue build up with the added step of waxing. I wax the cutting platforms as we, like my table of the table saw. This content is extremely helpful and also accurate in explaining saw blade best practices. Great info.

[@michaelnilson9876]

Awesome job

[@Stefan_Kawalec]

We've all been there - trying to outsmart ourselves and buying dirty cheap blades. Then you find a really good sharpening parlour and all of sudden end up with bunch of 200 Euro a piece blades. And it makes sense. Great video, as always. You've become a really good teacher.

[@davidperfette1425]

Yeah, Freud fool you. They look pretty damn nice at first but go dull pretty damn quick.

[@monteglover4133]

👍👍 I’ll definitely agree with cleaning and a high quality full kerf blade, do how ever do use separate blades for plywood, ... A high quality rip blade will often leave a glue ready cut. I was a part time cabinet maker, unfortunately my shop has been setting mostly unused for a few years due to illnesses.

[@Mopardude]

The reason why some will say Frued are not throw away blades is because when you buy them from a tooling guy they are a higher quality than the blades they sell in the retail stores.

[@InsiderCarpentry]

I should have made that point in the video.

[@mwgrc]

I just go with the Diablo regular kerf 80t ($53), and made a jig for the table saw from the design John Heisz made on his channel which utilizes a 6" diamond blade, and on those winter days when its slow I sharpen them up and it works great for me. Still got a lot of carbide on the blades so Im thinking 5-10 year range but I will start cleaning them with what your suggesting. I'm a Trim carpenter but have taken more of a Superintendent role as well as doing the Millwork/Trim packages on my projects, so I probably only do 50% or less of what you do. I can see how your method of getting good blades and having them sharpened professionally would be advantageous to a guy whos hustling from one job to the next, great video and advise as usual.

[@TheCampsicle]

Appreciate the Great vid, I’ve always wanted better blades but unsure if I’m paying more for better quality...

[@joeegas5718]

I am a newbie carpenter and all the info on blades will help me out. Outstanding video.

[@lwoodt1]

Where you have the blades resharpened is just as important as the blade itself. I consider the blade to be the most important part of the table saw. The plate has to be flat and run true. The teeth need to be sharp and ground so they are all the same in height , width, angles and sharpness. At home the blade must be kept clean and the face of the teeth be totally clean so they can cut the way they were designed. Use a cheap blade and then a quality blade and your saw will feel like two different saws. The blade is an investment in its initial cost and its cleaning and quality sharpening. but you will resharpen much less than with a cheaper blade.

[@cletustollery6914]

As a trim carpenter and cabinet maker for 30 years, kudos on this video. Years ago I bought a Forrest blade and have never bought another brand since. Their sharpening is amazing and they sharpen almost anything from saw blades, planer knives, router bits, lathe tools and jointer knives. As loyal, stubborn and old as I am, I might grab a FS blade.

[@stumpbumpers]

Same, but I dare say, my experience has shown a professional sharpening is the key component. I think the heavier blades are better because of momentum more carbide. I really don’t think 90% of woodworkers could tell a difference in a cheap blade vs a quality blade after a professional sharpening.

[@rickcolumbo3148]

That's all fine and good but I do get nostalgic thinking about all the Diablow blades I've hucked into the mud over the years.

[@carterscustomrods]

@1:56 ... do you mean Freud, or Diablo? There's a HUGE difference between the two.

[@SupaDave63]

I like The Tenryu as well. Makita eased to put them on their miter saws. CMT has a high end blade that seems to work very well. Wisconsin Knife , forester of course.

[@zephyr1408]

All kidding aside about the painted blades! I use a Forrest Wood Worker 2 on my Table Saw and the Chop Master on my Miter Saw. So far I don’t actually cut as much as you however doing custom work often cutting a lot of 8/4 oak lately , Cabinets & outdoor tables / benches I been getting 18 months? And I clean my blades often to make that it last!

[@spudpud-T67]

I cringed every time you placed a blade on top of another though out this video. Small chips and time for a re sharpen.

[@stevenfoust3782]

If you are a production carpenter then in my estimation you would spend about $ 600.00 on Freud blades per year. They don’t track well as they get dull after one house trim out. Full kerf blades have less deflection, less chip out, last longer, and have a reshaping value bonus.

[@Myfriendwaits]

I like a thin kerf blade because it's easier on the saw, making lots of cuts, pulling from a temporary pole, with other subs, I want my saw to spool up quickly and brake with ease. I've tried high quality blades. They are good on a table saw, but I like thin kerf on my miter saw.

[@tileslay6543]

Ouch on the Freud Diablo blades. 😂 I love those blades. I don’t really disagree with what you’re saying on longevity. I have stacks that should be sharpened. However with that said their 10 tooth Dmt tooth for click lock floors usually. This blade throws this blade conversion out the door. Yes I’m fully aware that it should not be used for fine woodworking. I bought two 5 years ago. I run them like dogs on hardwood flooring. Yes they’re a bit scary. On pine trim they do a pretty good job. My point is once this tech makes it to more teeth the whole saw blade game is going to change. And I do have similar higher end thicker kerf blades. They work well but won’t last as long without sharpening.

[@andyeckles4158]

Thanks Spencer. I was always sending my blades in to get sharpened to remove that *gunk* as I called it. It never occurred to me to research how to clean them myself. I used your link below to purchase the kit. Hope you got your commission. Andy

[@edmundnyamupepema]

Thank you so much for such a saw blade masterclass. I wish I could thumps up it 1000 times.

[@paulyanney3151]

FS blades are what I use

[@3345arjd]

f s blades are the best hands down. 27 years cabinet shop all i use. love your channel. you taughtme quite a few things

[@mrmike6996]

Freud blades are like cars. You can drive a BMW 300 series or you can drive a BMW 700 series. Not all Freud blades are equal so please don’t classify them all the same. Also number of teeth on the blade matter a lot. 3 weeks ago I was pushing out lots of rough sawn hemlock last weeks was banging out a bunch of pressure treated lumber. This week going to be cutting up Ipe and once that is done moving onto making bookshelves out of Maple plywood with maple faces. I use Freud industrial blades any where from a 40 tooth blade to a 100 tooth blade for both my table saw and chop saw. All depends on what I cutting

[@danielelek5055]

Thanks for all the free knowledge! I have a ryobi 12” sliding miter saw that I bought when I started my woodworking adventures. I can’t seem to ever get the thing to cut proper angles, especially when trying to cut a bevel on a longer board. Is this simply because it’s a POS ryobi? I’ve always questioned the 12” miter saw in general as well. I’m concerned that the blade is so big that it wobbles/warps when cutting, causing the inaccurate cuts. It’d EXTREMELY frustrating. Would a thicker blade possibly help this issue? Is there any merit in using a smaller, 10” miter saw for more accurate cuts? Thanks! I’ll be getting a new miter saw soon, would love to hear your suggestion. I mostly do work for myself but I have started to build some things for paying customers.

[@xman4328]

I have several RED Freud blades and a bunch of OLD Freud blades. They are complete different animals.. The carbide on the newer (RED) blades is so small,there isn't enough meat to grind away in the sharpening process.. The thin kerf on the newer blades is great for battery powered saws due to less power needed.. If you have stationary (plug in) tools,, you are much better off getting quality blades that can be sharpened..

[@Hvn1957]

I think Freud and CMT get sold a little short. In our shop, we use mostly Forrest blades. However, there are several Freud blades in use, on miter saws and lighter duty tables saws. They perform quite well if used judiciously. Our philosophy is they get one sharpening, then out to pasture. Where the really good blades shine is in the mill. We have two big old Dewalt 14” radial arm saws, one for rough and one for fine. We also have an old Clement table saw with power feed for rough rips, and a big Tannewitz also with power feed, for all the fine rips. These four saws are in use eight hours a day, all year round. They have the highest quality blades we can get. Thanks for your excellent content! You really spend the time to explain thoroughly. Your care and thoughtfulness is appreciated. PS You mentioned Southern Yellow (Short Leaf) Pine. Years ago we ran a ton of that stuff for structural components. It’s the worst wood on tools I’ve ever had the displeasure to mill. But man is it robust!

[@mjrwey]

Starting my woodworking career in a cabinet shop these higher quality blades were the standard. When I first switched over to doing finish carpentry I hated the throw aways everyone was using and quickly converted everyone. Most carpenters never used a better blade so they don't know what they're missing.

[@jeffshackleford3152]

What brand and kind of blades were y'all using? Who were y'all getting drawer guides and hinges from?

[@dano6201]

Great video! I’m a self employed carpenter and it’s funny when I worked for people before I never knew to clean blades. When I went on my own I realized my blades weren’t cutting well even though they where new and thought to clean it and it cut like new so I do like you said clean it quite often! In a pinch I use windex and a toothbrush on site.

[@DarkTouch]

the real cost savings is less material waste and less lost time redoing crappy cuts from crappy dull and dirty blades... so buy good blades, keep them clean, and get them professionally sharpened. as a fine furniture builder, i use four blades on my table saw: rip, box joint, cross cut/combo and fine finish atb blades. So use the right blade for the right job/material, and don't be lazy and not change them. This makes you get organized a little bit, like do as much ripping at once to minimize blade changes. I use the miter saw mainly for cutting stock to rough length, especially rough lumber before s4s milling, and do all my finish/final cuts on the table saw.

[@jalspach9215]

Easy-Off Oven Cleaner & BBQ brush on a Rubbermaid trash can lid. By the time you flip & spray the other side the 1st side is good to go! Wash off with garden hose & dry.

[@morokeiboethia6749]

There is no good reason to put a thin kerf blade on a miter saw that makes 2-5 second long cross cuts. Thin kerf blades work well with weak-medium powered circ saw and table saw electric motors that are making long rip cuts. The saws often bind really bad when equipped with full kerf blades but often its not due to a sharpness problem its just that the motor can not keep the blade up to speed depending on what you're cutting and the slightest pinch or movement causes the blades to bind or lock up. Throw a thin kerf blade on those same motors and you would swear its not the same motor but its really just a drop in resistance.

[@charlesvickers4804]

As a hobbiest the high end blade is a life time blade . I have purchaved som 50 plus yo saws the blades have been rusty but sharp enough i cut myself on one. The big thing ive noticed is the weight of the old blades much heavier. Think ill send them out for a spa date at quin saw.

[@MattyWill1]

Awesome video man. I have just started my own business 3 years ago. I have been going through blades like crazy. I thought to myself, why am I buying these blades every few months and what is the best high quality blades out there and also how can I sharpen them. I think I am going to jump into this same blade and blade sharpening company. 👍

[@ercaner9614]

Just discovered your chanel mate. I am a metal worker that dabbles in carpentry and find your posts valuable. Look forward to more posts. Sydney Australia

[@woodturnermark8529]

Great video, I also agree that you get what you pay for, I clean my blades with a table spoon of Spic and Span (one box will last a life time) with warm water, soak for about 15 minutes and clean with a brass brush, like new !