Inspection of a S&W .357 Magnum Model 19-4, All Original After 40+ Years: Part 1 of 2, Disassembly

Part 2 linked below:
Inspection of a S&W .357 Magnum Model 19-4, All Original After 40+ Years: Part 2 of 2, Reassembly
• Inspection of a S&W .3...
Taking a look inside this beautiful nearly mint condition Smith and Wesson Model 19 in .357 Magnum to clean it up and take some preventative maintenance precautions to prevent corrosion.
I believe this revolver is a 1979 production (if not, within a year or two at most). To the best of my knowledge it has never been disassembled before for any inspection, cleaning, or lubrication/oiling. So after more than four decades I think it deserved a look under the hood to ensure it’s well preserved to last another 40 years. I’ve never shot this revolver, and according to the prior owner he fired it 44 times. One box of ammo, six to keep in the cylinder in his night stand, and the other 44 round in the box were used for practice. Based on the condition of the revolver (and his lack of any real dedicated interest in firearms) I certainly do believe that to be the case.
Beautiful revolver and getting the opportunity to inspect it and preserve it for future generations to appreciate this iconic American classic has been a real treat.

[@jasonbuck489]

Ya can't go wrong with a K Frame... Especially the Model 19... Mine are all "Pre-Lock" Models with the Firing Pin on the Hammer... I wouldn't go near a New One... The "Classic Series".... Shrouded Barrels, Hillary Holes, Mim Parts, Etc... They might be good guns, but me personally, I don't care for them... That's a NICE S&W!!....Great Video!

[@ColterBrog]

Thanks, and in general I agree. The “Hillary Hole”, as you so eloquently put it, to me just ruins the classic shape and lines. It changed the silhouette noticeably. Certain other things, like the frame mounted firing pin… I prefer the old style of hammer nose but the frame mounted firing pin doesn’t bother me. The shrouded barrel I think is actually a legitimate improvement due to the clearances involved in the K frame. I touch on this briefly in the forcing cone video, but to put it briefly I’d rather have a shrouded barrel with a thinner concentric forcing cone, than a thicker forcing cone that has one weak spot in it that becomes a failure point. MIM can be good, or it can be bad. The main issues with MIM are either poor processes and poor QC, or poor implementation. MIM is a good choice for certain parts, but inappropriate in other applications. Lots of nuance to it, I think. The main detractor for me on the new S&W lineup is the integral lock. It’s ugly.

[@Franknakano7]

Thanks for the video. I got a 19-9 and ive never taken apart a revolver this is a great look inside of how easy it is to take it down.

[@ColterBrog]

Thanks. I don’t remember if I said it in the video but if you decide to take yours down or just explore the mechanics further, Gunblue490 is an extremely knowledgeable and experienced source of information. If you liked this video, you’ll probably enjoy his videos on S&W revolvers even more.

[@user-yp4zt2kf9c]

I always use a Harbor Freight magnet bottom bowl to hold all the small parts.

[@ColterBrog]

I’ve tried that before, but don’t like that it sometimes seems to impart a bit of magnetism to the parts. I really prefer non-magnetic tools and parts. That’s all just personal preference, though. Plenty of very competent people love magnetic drivers and such.

[@johnh5259]

Excellent video, thank you, sir. I have had S&W revolvers for 40+ years, but have never taken one down this far. Thanks to you, I have the confidence to try it. Looking forward to seeing Part 2. Suggestion for getting all those small parts clean: use an ultrasonic cleaner - it's amazing how much dirt comes off things that look clean. I have the small one from Magnasonic, but should probably have spent more to get a bigger one.

[@ColterBrog]

I would also advise watching the S&W disassembly video by GunBlue490. He is very knowledgeable and gives a more thorough explanation of proper techniques than I do. Part of the reason I haven’t done a disassembly instruction video on S&W is because I have nothing to add to what he has shown. His video is essentially the definitive source.

[@doranmaxwell1755]

I have to do the same it is in absolutely like new mechanical condition. but..... this thing was really badly stored with no oil. rust was surface but there are some pits that are gonna have to stay for the most part.. I cleaned it up and did a quicky cold blue.. it came out .... sorta acceptable. I have been doing some nickel plating... practiced on a few black powder revolvers. My thinking is to clean it up the best I can without taking off too much material and then nickel plate it. Nickel was fairly common on guns back then. If anyone is offended by that well.... they are really gonna like the real pearl grips. By the way.... it is an extremely accurate gun.

[@ColterBrog]

I do have a video, pretty old one now, about techniques I use for removing rust including trying to minimize the appearance of pitting. Oil, a soft brass cartridge casing as a scraper, and some 0000 steel wool wetted with oil will do a pretty good job of taking off rust while preserving the surrounding finish and preventing additional damage to the base metal.

[@doranmaxwell1755]

I am a hugefan o 0000 steel wool in this case tho i want to give the gun a polish a bit better than the factory sine nickel shows every scratch and imperfection@@ColterBrog

[@BP-je5fj]

Excellent video. Would you please specify on how to remove the pin and barrel on a S&W.Revolver 357 mag. 19-4. Does the pin come out to the left?.opposite side of the side plate?. Thanks for your help. Great video.

[@ColterBrog]

As far as I can tell the pin is straight- both ends appear to be the same diameter as best I am able to measure with my dial caliper. (0.069”) Based on a very small blemish from manufacturing, it appears the pin was driven in from the right/side plate side of the revolver. Removing a barrel is not something I have done on one of these. I don’t have the equipment to effectively retorque it, fit a barrel, or the fixtures to confidently be able to remove one without causing damage to the frame.

[@BP-je5fj]

@@ColterBrog Thank you very much.

[@FGX318]

Hi, I own a model 19-4 and it jammed two times a week ago. Actually I shot 357 and the primer went back a little bit, just enough to prevent me from opening the cylinder. I was at the gun club and the gunsmith came to open the cylinder with a rubber mallet. He then opened it and found the fulcrum that you cleaned @13:32 where the trigger assembly is hold onto was broken. 😢 he told me no repair could be done … is it true ? Possibly as this fulcrum is part of the gun body…. He said that the primer issue way be due to a slight recessed of the body in the hammer area that allows the primer to go backwards …! Do you agree ? Thanks for your help and pieces of advice … 👍

[@ColterBrog]

It can be repaired. They’re actually separate pins sort of pressed into the frame. Your best bet is to contact S&W. I’ve sent revolvers back to them before for that same repair. I’m not sure anyone else has the tooling to do it.

[@FGX318]

Thanks for your reply… I’m in France not easy as if I was to the US, but I’ll try to get connection with them .. thanks again 👍

[@ColterBrog]

@@FGX318There might be people in France who can do it. Depending on the manifesting technique some are pressed in and others are screwed in, based on what I am reading. Someone who is a talented machinist and fabricator can probably get it done. Tricky part will probably be getting it reprofiled where it goes through the frame and reblued. Best of luck to you. S&W might know of someone in your area who can help, but I’m not sure what kind of network they have in Europe.

[@FGX318]

Thank you so much for the advice … I’ll try to look up for a smith and Wesson rep around here … 👍 finger crossed !

[@PikeyScott]

Found this while looking for a solution to my cylinder stop. I inherited an all original 19-4 that's never been fired. The cylinder stop doesn't recede down into the frame far enough to allow the cylinder to rotate. Doesn't fail every time, though. Fails about 75% of the time. How hard is it to get the cylinder stop out? I've taken it down all the way up to that point and stopped. Any tips or tricks? Thanks!

[@ColterBrog]

It’s not really all that difficult, it’s just tedious because it’s a small part and a small spring in a tight spot. Just need to drop it down and wiggle it out the side. I usually find tweezers, toothpick, paper clip, etc. are helpful implements.

[@PikeyScott]

@@ColterBrog Excellent. Thanks very much.

[@user-yp4zt2kf9c]

Ialsouse some old dental tools to lift the parts that need to be preyed out.

[@ColterBrog]

Dental tools are very convenient, especially when dealing with the small springs.