Install a Battery mounted Fuse Block

In this video I show how I added a Blue Seas battery mounted fuse block to clean up the wire connections to my battery.
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[@kevinmcc7863]

Thanks for the referral. I bought one for each battery and it cleaned up my wiring at my batteries. Thanks

[@mckutzy]

I use this on my pickup truck for adding separate light circuits ect. No need to cut or splice into stock lugs.... Can even use it on the side post terminals for more room and no need main disconnecting power...

[@Boatingzen]

Had not thought of that but good to know. Thanks for the comments

[@chrisgraham2904]

With all the wires to the battery terminated at a central fuse block, it's a simple process to remove the block from the battery if the battery ever has to be pulled or replaced. Pop in the new battery and make one connection for all the circuits.

[@Boatingzen]

Agree but sometimes you want to be right at the battery for things like volt meter and bilge pumps. Thanks for comment

[@johnlcallaway]

Thanks for the heads up. I bought a boat a few months ago and need to do some rewiring, the timing is perfect for me!

[@Boatingzen]

Thanks glad it is of some help. Good luck with your project.

[@jdoe265]

Good to see you back. There are few, if not any, comprehensive marine electrical videos out there. I would request a tutorial on on wire routing and organization practices. I can't even find it in ABYC literature.

[@Boatingzen]

Thanks, I am working on a multi part electrical series that will run about 8 hours of video. Likely will not be out until next year. I like your suggestion and may do something along those lines as a shorter video. I did have something planned on how to run wires. Stay tuned I will see what I can do.

[@roncgibson]

In the mean time, get and read Nigel Calder's book of boat Electronics and Maintenance. Wayne, I bet you have that book onboard . . .

[@jdoe265]

Read it, and it is on board. Currently insulating an icebox in preparation for a liner and refrigeration.

[@okcpicker]

I noticed a black wire installed on that 12 volt positive fuse block. According to ABYC standards, black wiring is to be reserved for AC circuits only. This is to prevent confusion between a DC circuit and an AC circuit which could potentially lead to fatal consequences.

[@Boatingzen]

You are correct but this boat was built prior to that standard so rather than replacing wire I went with what was there.

[@bfree6197]

Instead of replacing the wire... I'd put some red heat shrink tubing on it. At the battery and wherever else it goes.

[@evandickson19]

This device is genius and almost fuel proof

[@Boatingzen]

Yeah one of those truly good ideas. Thanks for watching and the comment

[@edrymes3653]

While I agree the end product is much neater, it seems to go against my instinct that batteries should only have the main battery wires attached. I'd use a sub-panel for the essential gear..The main reason for this would be battery access for maintenance or removal. I come from an aviation background so maybe that is where I "learned" this.

[@roncgibson]

This sounds good to me as wel, and I asked Wayne and will ask you, do you tin the wire ends with solder before connecting them. I know it is a heated debate, but just asking. Boat's and aircraft flex, so is un-tinned connections better for flexing or tinned better for ridged coneections. Cheers Ron . . . l

[@Boatingzen]

I agree but for a few connections that do not need to be switched this is a good option. Trust me I see some scary things out there and am hoping this is a simple option that will at least be an improvement. Also the connections I have are for alarms and volt meters that I want direct to the battery for accuracy. Thanks for the feedback.

[@RobFomenko]

Totally agree. Only 1 connection to the main battery. Blue sea makes other types of fuses that can come off a sub bus.

[@edleesilva]

Would I be able to run my positive wires off the fuse block to a switch panel and loop negative wires back to a negative buss bar attached to the battery ?

[@en8581]

Thanks for the video. Maybe I missed it but should there not also be a terminal fuse block on that stud between the battery and the large outgoing positive cable? Thanks!

[@Boatingzen]

The large cable is a starter cable and does not normally get fused. Some people are starting to do that but I fear it would blow at a bad time so do not recommend it myself. Thanks for the comments.

[@AWM4321]

Capt. Canning Back in the day I worked on line crew for Georgia Power. Whenever we made a connection between dissimilar metals, particularly aluminium to copper, we always used a joint compound, something along the lines of AFL's No. 2 Electrical Joint Compound. To the best of my knowledge line crews used the same material in coastal areas, so I presume it works in a maritime environment. Most of the pre-packaged connectors already had a joint compound in them, but if they didn't standard practice was to apply a joint compound before making either a squeezed on or bolted connection. I've seen videos about making a good butt joint that take steps to protect a connection from corrosion, but I don't see corrosion protection routinely employed when making connections like the ring connectors in this video. Is there a reason not to use something along the lines of EJC No.2, or are marine squeeze on connectors provided with some kind of corrosion protection? Thanks!

[@Boatingzen]

I have never used a joint compound and have not heard of it used in marine applications. I know for some connections in really hash conditions they may be sealed. All of the connections I make are with same metals being either tinned copper or copper and i never use aluminum in any electrical fittings. My guess is the compound you take about was to reduce corrosion in the aluminum. I will look into this a bit more when I get time. Hope that helps and thanks for asking, I love these types of questions that get you thinking about things like this. I may be an old dog but I can still learn some new tricks lol

[@mckutzy]

@@Boatingzen to double up on the Capt. last statement for this.... Blue Sea Systems only use tin plated solid copper in all of there products.... Contacts, bus bars, switch internal materials ect. are pure copper.... Aluminum is just in the ring terminals....

[@Cornuts1000]

Don't you need to install another one on the negative terminal battery for all the negative wires?

[@roncgibson]

Wayne, I noticed you did not tin the wires with solder before installing them, but just crimped then in place. Is that your preferred electrical way to connect electronics, and if so why. Want to hear your advice about that. I've always tinned wires prior to installing, and would like to hear you feed back, Perhaps others would benefit from your apparch.

[@Boatingzen]

I used tinned marine wire. I have never added solder as this can harden the wire and cause problems with breaking although I have not ever seen that to be a real problem. I will use scotch coat if it is a wet location. Hope that helps and thanks for the comment and watching

[@moulder6040]

Interesting. one question. i'm seeing several red (positive) wires leading to the block but only one black wire. I'd expect to see a red/black pair for each load added. Do you handle this differently. Thanks for the post.

[@Boatingzen]

There is a separate buss for the black or neutral. Technically the neutral wire should be yellow on a DC system but many still use lack.

[@brudoug1]

All of these accessories are hooked up directly to the battery right? Wouldn't it be better to have a sub-panel after a relay so they only get power if the ignition key is switched on. Otherwise, if you forget to turn off all accessories individually you will deplete your battery.

[@Boatingzen]

Yes you could use a sub panel and many cases that is a the better way to go. For many however this is a quick easy alternative and much better than just a bunch of wires on the battery post. Thanks

[@boashna]

another good video what kind a wire cutter do you recommend

[@Boatingzen]

I just use a basic pair of cutters just don't buy the cheapest

[@paulatkinson4439]

I have a deep cycle & a starting battery- which battery should I pull juice from- for the fuse block ? (lights, livewell). Thanks.

[@Boatingzen]

House loads are better suited to the deep cycle

[@paulatkinson4439]

@@Boatingzen thank you.

[@waynemimms6959]

How big is this unit I want to put on bike if possible

[@Boatingzen]

Not sure I understand how you plan to use this