Installation Series 4/4 Data plates

[@JohnB-b6m]

Super series G. Just to note, much in video 4 does not apply in Scotland, where the regime is much less prescribed. Still good practice however to do as you outline to have a record. Oh and agree a Hwam test urgently needed within your review set. Lock mechanism will have you falling in love with it. And congrats both on pending arrival!

[@TheTortoise]

I’ll have to have a word with Hwam at some point. Interesting that Scotland isn’t subject to this? And thanks a lot. Although the morning sickness is definitely causing mixed feelings here 😆

[@erniec5465]

I have a chimney not drafting connected to a mid efficiency boiler furnace and gas hot water tank. The chimney has liner, it is at the highest point on the roof, it was checked for blockage and cleaned. The drafting problem only happened a certain time of the day I thought i had a negative pressure problem and installed a fresh air vent. And that it did not fix the problem. After watch your video i realized my problem was the 1% that with a unique condition. Instead of me trying to resolve the problem i going to find a professional to fix my problem. Instead of me doing the trial and error method. Thanks for the information.😊

[@TheTortoise]

Glad it was useful. Trial and error will remain the best option, but you will sometimes get lucky with a cowl.

[@erniec5465]

I agree but this time i need WETT certified technician fix the problem, sign off and to turn on the gas.

[@sevastoskoumtzis5401]

any alternative suggestions for automatic stoves like hwam?

[@TheTortoise]

We’re just about to release a video on the Scan 67, which is automated to a certain extent. He won’t light or refuel itself, but it does control its own air vents, and therefore it’s combustion efficiency, burn rate and temperature. I haven’t tested a Hwam yet though.

[@graemeclark6671]

Thanks for this series. I need to route a flue through an internal single brick wall to connect into a chimney. Any suggestions on how to do this? I believe I don’t need a twin wall flue when going through a non combustible wall. The part I’m struggling to picture is connecting a 45 flue bend to the liner. Thanks

[@TheTortoise]

You often need to make a larger hole, make all the necessary connections and then build the wall back in. Other times you can get the liner to come through a smaller hole, make the connections and then drag the flue back through the hole and then build it back in. Just depends on how big the chimney is and whether you have the space to pull things in and out of the hole more easily.

[@graemeclark6671]

@@TheTortoise thanks. The chimney internal is 9 inch squares and I’ll be putting a 5 inch liner in it

[@TheTortoise]

Sounds possible, but not easy. You’ll probably end up needing a larger hole.

[@adrianking6309]

Great content, what would be the price range of a building inspector to sign off a diy install? Would they be happy with a fairly modern second hand burner (also refurbished) being installed or would they want new?

[@TheTortoise]

Price tends to be worked out on your council tax band. In terms of signing off an old stove, this shouldn’t be a problem at all, but they will want the instructions and details of the model.

[@stevetheobald1446]

A bit of advice needed, will a rotating cowl stop downward draft on windy days ? I have a 150mm twin wall flue coming straight out a sunroom roof . Cheers Steve

[@TheTortoise]

It probably will, but it may be worth experimenting with a slightly taller flue, as rotating cowls are costly and do need replacing. You could also think about adding an air vent on the side of the building that the wind is coming from, as this may well pressurise the room and get rid of the downdraught too.

[@stevetheobald1446]

@@TheTortoise thanks very much you not wrong £230 for a spinning cowl I have bought one online fingers crossed I will let you know it it solves the problem on windy days 👍🏻

[@TheTortoise]

Definitely keen to hear how you get on!

[@EddRandomCrap]

🤙