Installation series: 1/4 Lining a chimney.

[@huwbishop6995]

I'm reasonably handy, jack of all trades and fitted my own liner, swapped my chimney pots front to back (former gas flue vent). Register plate is fireproof board, collar is metal, pot hangar at the top. It's really intimidating at first and it would have been nice to have assistance. But when you get into it, it's really quite easy, worst bit was getting the liner down on my own, lots of up and down the scaffold. Got there in the end, took me about two days, including re-cementing the pot and re-pointing some of the brickwork. It was really a good idea to get up there. The front chimney was wide open, 9" clay pot, with plants growing inside and the top 3 courses of brickwork needed attention. Since installation, I've no longer got damp in one bedroom as this was the open chimney allowing rain and detritus down. I found bones of long dead birds, crisp packets from the 80's and no end of stones. Even some silverfish living amongst it all.

[@gpfmiller1977]

The installations of stoves in the UK and Canada are so very different. I really enjoy learning about this from you. I also love your comment on "ticking modern boxes" lol

[@TheTortoise]

Thanks for watching! 😆

[@Disinterested-jg6pw]

How are they different in Canada?

[@barrygroves2046]

Thank you very much, this is one of the best explanation videos on you tube. I have been watching your reviews for a while and love your style of presentation. Well done and good luck.

[@TheTortoise]

Thanks a lot!

[@LRDefender1968]

Fascinating guys, great idea for a new series 😘 Just placed an order on your shop as a thank you and a congratulations for your great news. Kind regards Tony

[@TheTortoise]

Thank you very much!

[@Disinterested-jg6pw]

I have a "Register plate adapter" that enables the pipe-from-the-stove to move up and down by 90mm. This worked well as I could do the whole chimney lining and attach the adaptor to the closure plate and leave it until the stove arrived. The pipe from the stove moves up into the adaptor while you slide stove in and then back down when it's in place.

[@rabbit7able792]

I have the town and country Rosedale inset stove. I have had it on all day burning oak and hawthorn. And the 3 bedroom house is hot all throughout the house. And the liner was insulated with vermiculite. Which keeps the liner hot, the whole chimney breast in house is very warm even in loft. I won't have to relight it until tomorrow afternoon

[@TheTortoise]

Sounds ideal, glad it’s working well!

[@rebeccasmailus9221]

Really informative, thank you.

[@peterbraidwood-ni6di]

Thanks for posting and naming all the parts

[@TheTortoise]

No problem 👍

[@paulshaw4382]

Very informative as always, mine is similar but has a fixed connection at the bottom of the flexi liner which is screwed onto the register plate this also would enable quickly changing stoves (not as I'm thinking of changing anytime soon hopefully 😂 )with only the vitreous enamel pipe needing to be altered not sure what the fitting is called but would also work well.

[@TheTortoise]

There are some “MA” adaptors that allow the pipe to slide up in and then drop down. Those are expensive, but they do make disconnecting the stove really simple.

[@tonyguidal2075]

Great video, thank you. Quick question, when installing the register plate, how do you fix it to the angle brackets once you've dropped it on top of them? Do you put self tappers in? Cheers

[@TheTortoise]

If I’m not insulating above, then I would deliberately not attach it in place. Small air gaps and movement for expansion and contraction will mean you don’t get banging from expansion and also it will ventilate the chimney, which is a very important step for 95% of chimneys.

[@Begreen9]

What is the mantel composed of? Is that wood trim at the fireplace opening lintel? It looks much closer than 18" to the single-walled offset.

[@braden8737]

Hi there, I’m a newer subscriber and love your videos. They have helped me immensely with my new Saltfire Scout stove. I’m curious if you have or could you do a detailed video on how to burn coal?? I’m having a hard time keeping it lit. I’ve searched through your vids but didn’t see any. Thanks again from Canada 🇨🇦

[@TheTortoise]

That’s an interesting idea, I’ll have a look into it.

[@nlmoin990]

I want to add an air intake to my wooden stove, I can only use the same chamber from the chimney, should I also add a liner for the intake or would it suffice to have one for the exhaust? From what I understand the exhaust should be at least 50cm above the intake as well right? Thank you!

[@TheTortoise]

I’m not sure what you’re suggesting at all. Having 2 liners in a chimney is a very bad idea, because they will react against each other and disintegrate. But more than that, adding air intakes into your chimney will reduce draw, and I do not understand why you would want this?

[@nlmoin990]

@@TheTortoise Thank you so much for answering, I probably wasn't clear, my wood stove has a fresh air intake and I'm trying to understand if I can use the single chamber from my chimney for both exhaust and fresh air intake, I'm assuming a single liner for the exhaust would be okay then as long as the top of the liner is higher than the rest of the chimney?

[@EddRandomCrap]

👍👍

[@atopdesigner]

Really useful as my installer is coming out in the morning to survey my chimney in a draughty Victorian house. To fill with Vermiculite or not? I know you said this was something you were going to cover.

[@TheTortoise]

Yea it’s definitely useful in some cases, but most it’s either surplus to requirements or even it causes more trouble than it solves.

[@vvvvv8234]

Is fire cement or sealant not required at any join? either liner to adapter or adapter to pipe or pipe to stove?

[@TheTortoise]

Fire cement is preferred on the joints that are in the room (below the register plate). In practice they have very little point at all, beyond appearing more professional. They will also not last long as expansion and contraction will wiggle it loose very quickly. The key thing is making a chimney draw, if you’ve done that then sealing it is a bit of a red herring.

[@biggeordie245]

Would a rotating storm cowling stop the Venturi affect and reduce over draft in windy conditions?

[@TheTortoise]

These are primarily used to increase the draw on a chimney as apposed to reducing it. Perhaps the best solution to too much draw is a flue draught stabiliser.

[@biggeordie245]

@@TheTortoise many thanks. I am not 100% happy with a stabiliser tee taking hot air from a room I have just spent good money and time warming up. I am struggling to get someone to fit a manual damper I could use to increase resistance. It is only a problem in windy conditions and I can’t even fully close the defra approved primary air as it whistles unbearably for my hearing aid wearing mrs as it draws too much air.

[@TheTortoise]

The stabiliser is definitely still a good idea. Particularly as it would only open during over draught. But I get what you mean.

[@jonharvey5268]

I take it there is no need to create a perfect seal between the stove collar and pipe either? I only ask as the sealant used in my installation has cracked and I was considering removing and using stove rope to fill the gap but is there any point?

[@TheTortoise]

In reality there is very little point in dealing these things, but it is required on installation. A leak on a flue is an indication of a draw issue. Sealing it doesn’t change that fact, as smoke will simply come out of the vents if there is no where else for it to go. The real job is fixing the draw.

[@cindyharrison4191]

I've just ordered a flickrflame wood burning stove from West Midlands stove installers. It's to be installed Wednesday 10th. It's bigger than that my fireplace so I know it's going to be messy. Have you heard of them and have you reviewed the stove? Kind regards Cindy

[@TheTortoise]

I have encountered them. The most similar stove I’ve reviewed is the Woodford Didsbury and ACR woodpecker. These could well have been made in the same factories, and are nice and simple imports.

[@charlwoodcharlwood9428]

Slightly off tangent but could I ask what gaps you would recommend surrounding a wood burner in a fireplace? I understand that some manufacturers say they are happy with a minimum of 5cms but some troubleshooter sites talk about 15cms for decent air circulation. Do you have any strong thoughts on this? Thanks…

[@TheTortoise]

The 5cm is a British standard requirement, so this is typically a universal minimum distance from non-combustible surfaces. The 15cm is not required, but is definitely a more efficient installation as you have more space for air flow.

[@charlwoodcharlwood9428]

@@TheTortoise many thanks…

[@Mike-gz4xz]

I have a question ! in a little bit , firstly i love your channel huge fan, i soo wish i had watched around 5 years ago with all the knowledge from you , as i had a fitter install my stove and on recently dropping down the registry plate , i see he has installed the stove pipe though the closure plate hmm not happy , its going to be a big pain installing a new stove, so to my Question , is it posable to extend with some type of fitment so it sits on the outside ( below the reg plate) for an easier installation of a new stove ? (my liner go's into an adapter and straight stove pipe on to stove) it would be great to modifier it ? as you said its a big royal pain to change out a stove. Many thanks for your videos enjoy them all.

[@TheTortoise]

Thanks for the message. Yes it is possible. The simplest solution is a length of rigid S/S pipe, and then you connect to the black pipe just as it comes through the plate. As and when you change the stove, the fitter should be able to do this relatively simply.

[@Mike-gz4xz]

@@TheTortoise oh right , so your saying connect from S/S flex pipe ,to a length of ridge S/S pipe, which is long enough go though the Reg plate , to connect the black pipe to the stove ,i am actually quite capable of doing that my self ,i just needed your professional take on it. please give me a yes if i understood you here . Many thanks.

[@TheTortoise]

Yea you’ve got it, although I’m sure I should object to the idea that this is professional advice 😅!

[@Mike-gz4xz]

@@TheTortoise Buddy your to modest Lol 😂

[@TheTortoise]

😅 thanks a lot!

[@Disinterested-jg6pw]

You used the word 'dangle' from the chimney pot holder - but the funny thing is that you will have that much friction in the chimney that it just stays in place anyway.

[@TheTortoise]

Often it does, but it does depend on chimney size. My chimneys are really wide, it would literally fall straight down 😆

[@tayfunkilic7950]

I am bit confuse when l search adoptor wood burner pipe is 5 inch flue linner 6 inch when l search to buy 5 inch to 6 inch adoptor search or or 6 to 5 chimney to wood burner 😂

[@bobp6742]

Those cowling you showed weren't stainless steel.

[@TheTortoise]

Actually they were all stainless steel. They had 316l on the label, but they were just powder coated over the top.

[@bobp6742]

@@TheTortoise Yours must be different to mine, I had what looked the exact same as the flex brown one as yours and the same colour but mine was powder coated steel. I must of got the Chinese made one 🤣

[@TheTortoise]

They will make both, so you often just choose which version you want, but they will tend to look the same.