Installing 4th Gen MrCool DIY Mini-Split | Dual Zone 18,000 BTU

MRCOOL DIY Mini Splits: amzn.to/3SOpmBv
Hey everyone! This past weekend I installed a 4th Generation MrCool DIY Multi Zone 18,000 BTU 2-Zone Mini-Split. I hope this video helps you all in your installation. Leave comments with any questions you may have and I'll be happy to answer them! I installed it in a 600 square foot apartment and it seems to be working great!
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
00:49 - Unboxing
02:31 - Wall Plate Template
03:42 - Drilling Through Wall & Brick
05:30 - Air Handler Installation
06:22 - Unrolling Refrigerant Line
07:05 - Connecting Quick Connect Refrigerant Lines
08:26 - Checking for Leaks
08:56 - Installing Electrical Components
11:17 - Run Your Air Conditioner!
12:21 - How the Condenser Sounds
12:47 - Finishing Touches
13:29 - Like, Subscribe, & Leave a Comment!
Additional Materials Needed:
• 10 Gauge Wire
• 25 Amp Breaker
• AC Disconnect
Tools Needed:
• Screwdrivers
• 2 Adjustable Wrenches
• Drill w/ Phillips & Flat Head Bits
• 3 1/2" Hole Saw Drill Bit
• Spray Bottle w/ Soap Water
• Masonry Drill Bit (If Cutting Through Brick)

[@bobbigrant9158]

Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) kzbin.infoUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.

[@johngardiner466]

Hey Stephen nice video. 2 hints that might help viewers. I just installed a 27k unit. #1 when you do the knockout for the main power use the upper knockout , I used the lower as I saw that you did and can’t get the screw in to hold cover. #2 when you put the line power under screw use left side so it doesn’t push the wire loose. Thanks for posting.

[@white-omorn1952]

Thanks! Great Job, especially on the electric details.

[@coriding]

10:20 - Quick tip, (Disclaimer: for entertainment only, always consult installation manual & professionals for specific situations) the green or bare copper is the ground wire, not neutral (usually white). In this case, it looks like the neutral wire may not be used. In the U.S. the neutral wire generally completes 120V circuits, but for 240V, the neutral wire is typically used for unbalanced usage between the red & black wires. Neutral (white) may be seen on newer 240V ranges or dryers. Green (or bare copper) ground wires are intended to interrupt the circuit if it somehow touches something it shouldn't. Examples would be a live wire touching the metal casing, or sometimes can occur from bad motors. Don't worry about the naysayers, I'm sure you learned a lot, thanks for sharing your experience!

[@StephenFixesThings]

Thank you for the feedback! I definitely am learning a lot of things as I go, so I always appreciate more knowledge.

[@ProudDadVet]

Made the same comment... just after I saw yours..lol I take it, you are an Electrician as well.

[@oldcaliforniakid]

Nice video! Can you tell me the measurement between the front and back holes in the feet of the condenser?

[@robertmunroe3976]

Hey Stephen; this is a good overview video. Don’t get bummed on the naysayers, you did a decent job. There will always be folks that quibble with the details; the point is that your system is working and not leaking refrigerant. Maybe after a year of usage, post an update about how the MRCOOL is performing. Cheers and good luck, thx for the video.

[@allen35315]

Any idea what the wattage draw is for heating?

[@sabbynoor225]

Hey... nice video...just a quick question. I have to install both indoor units in order for system to work. Right? I installed only one indoor unit with 2 zone system , left other , and turned it on but it is not working. Not turning on.

[@ProudDadVet]

Oh, just an FYI... using a Green wire as a Neutral is a Code Violation (NEC). It MUST be white only for a 120/240v system.

[@jonp6347]

Hi, great video thinking about installing this system I wanted to know if one head don't work does it shut down the other head.

[@StephenFixesThings]

Thanks! That’s the great thing about these is you can run them both or just one while the other is off.

[@jonp6347]

@@StephenFixesThings Great than you

[@kai6424]

is this on a 30amp breaker?

[@qtip919]

what size breaker did you go with? Im planning on using the exact same (dual zone 18k) unit

[@StephenFixesThings]

I used a 25 amp double pole breaker

[@ProudDadVet]

@@StephenFixesThings they had a 25 amp Breaker??? Wow, haven't seen those in years and years and I am a licensed Electrician of almost 30 yrs. What was the FLA on the data plate if I may ask.

[@tynnmahn]

Where did the "tube" that you put through the wall come from? edit - nevermind, I found it. It is in the lineset box

[@StephenFixesThings]

Glad you found it. Sorry I didn't clarify in the video!

[@dizzy49]

The drain line come connected, and the one that comes with the lineset pushes onto the other one. So what is the drain line plug for? In the instructions it says "to prevent unwanted leaks, be sure that the factory installed hollow center rubber plug is installed in the unused drain hole." Where is the unused hole? Is that what the plug is for?

[@StephenFixesThings]

I didn't have to do it, but you have the option to move the drain, lines, and electrical wire on the back of the indoor unit to the opposite side. I'm guessing if you do that you just want to make sure you're moving the drain plug to the opposite side. If you're not switching it out then you don't have anything to worry about.

[@christochristov1259]

Hi Mr. Stephen if you install by yourself the unit as you did what happened to manufacturing warranty 7 years compressor and 5 years parts. Thank you sir.

[@noelmatos7927]

Did the connect lines come with it or it's a separate purchase

[@StephenFixesThings]

Yep, comes with it. You can choose your lengths too. Make sure you measure good because you can’t cut the excess on them.

[@noelmatos7927]

@@StephenFixesThings where did you order the mr. Cool mini splits at ?

[@StephenFixesThings]

I ordered it from Premium Home Source. They let me choose the line length and the price listed included tax. Everything arrived quickly with no issues.

[@noelmatos7927]

@@StephenFixesThings ok I'm going to look that up . Thank you

[@stevevandelinde1204]

Who did you order this from?

[@StephenFixesThings]

I ended up purchasing it through Premium Home Source. They had a really good price and shipped it quickly. When I ordered tax was wrapped into the price listed which was unexpectedly cool too. Not sure if that's still a thing though.

[@waynebussert5180]

You really should use spade lugs instead of using just the wires under the screws and eliminate the loose strands of wires. Having loose strands can effect the current carrying capacity and potential contact with other items. You only talking a few bucks to do this. Are the smaller two (2) flex sealed connectors? Also does not look like you used the strain relief block for the com leads.

[@StephenFixesThings]

Good point, I think I'll go back and clean it up with some spade lugs. Yes they are flex sealed connectors. I ended up moving the strain relief blocks back up after the video but forgot to include that.

[@titustitus7105]

Put a lug on those wire ends. Crimping tools and lugs are inexpensive.

[@jballs1118]

Good video can you do a video on how to do the electrical wiring from the main electrical box

[@mastershredder2002]

10:17 Nope. Wrong.

[@arishem555]

I'm sorry, but it is super messy installation. Don't be scared to cut drywall. make a hole just behind the unit and run all the lines to the attic or inside the wall. Unit mount. Use solid concrete handmade or the one you can buy in homedepot. And screw the unit to it. If you won't, - unit will fail eventually. It should be tied up to the wall on top of the hanger or to the ground, - so excessive vibration will go into the ground your the house.

[@scotts4125]

It's very important to torque the flair nuts to proper spec as stated by Mr. Cool. You didn't do that. Just being honest this is one of the sloppiest installs I have ever seen. You should put those linesets and electrical in lineset covers. It makes it look neat, professional and shows you take pride in your work.

[@StephenFixesThings]

MRCOOL only recommends using a torque wrench if you have one. In fact they don’t even use one in their videos. The key they point out is to not over tighten it. As long as you connect the lines as far as they’ll go and not force it after that there’s nothing to be concerned with. As mentioned in the video, I went back and cleaned up the linesets afterwards. There are definitely some things I could’ve done less sloppy though, so I don’t completely disagree with you. The electrical could have been done better as discussed in a previous comment. I appreciate the feedback!

[@scotts4125]

The number issue with mini splits is leaks at the flare fittings. So torque to the correct specs is very important.

[@scotts4125]

The number issue with mini splits is leaks at the flare fittings. So torque to the correct specs is very important.

[@mplscarsales6652]

@@scotts4125 the 4th gen has new fittings that shouldn’t leak

[@zachansen8293]

That looks awful. Why didn’t you go into your attic? I want to show the mrs we can do it ourselves but I can’t show her this. She’d freak out if our install looked like that.

[@leealtmansr.3811]

I assume the refrigerant is R-410A. Are you EPA-608 certified? I understand that is a law. And did you torque the connections 🤔?

[@StephenFixesThings]

Yep, R-410A. That’s what’s so great about MrCool is their lines come pre charged. So no need to hire an HVAC technician. Torque specs are included in the manual on page 26, but as it notes you’re okay to tighten with wrenches as long as you don’t over tighten. Here’s the manual for anyone interested! mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-es-im-um-en-01.pdf

[@leealtmansr.3811]

@StephenFixesThings you must not be certified. If you were, you'd know the law. It is, you must be certified, if there is any chance of releasing refrigerants. When you connect the lines, there is a chance of refrigerant release. I've been teaching new techs for 20 years.

[@slipstreamvids7422]

The connectors seal perfectly as they come together, no gas can escape. Although they provide torque specs they are irrelevant because the connectors bottom out . There is no flare type connection that needs to be made by torquing. Whole different scenario.

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

Don’t you have some womanizers, hypocrites and serial cheaters in church to call out? They cause many more problems and trauma in the USA. Good luck. You can get the word out fast on Fakebook. That is what I used for many of our local slippery zippered philanderers.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

@@leealtmansr.3811 The law does not apply to DIY systems such as these. And even if it did, only a bureaucrat would lose sleep over it. In the real world, I see no problem here.

[@MrFrankcoughlin]

So much of the work/install is done "off camera" that this video is not helpful.

[@zachansen8293]

Right? Why even make a video when all you show is a poorly finished job.

[@robertjames-life4768]

Interested that in the specs it says min wire gauge for the 18K is 12 gauge but it recommends 10. Wish it would just say use 10 if that’s what it really needs. 🫤

[@j.badinter988]

What a crappy installation of the outside lines! Intead of goim gdown vertical you chose to go horizontal so you created a very ugly look. BTW, the green cable fom powr line is not neutral, but ground..... Pff...

[@xNYCMarc]

You really didn't show any of the important stuff. Kinda useless. But hey, KZbin is free and you get what you pay for.

[@GAFNIY]

Incorrect installation! The route needs mandatory vacuuming, which the man did not do! Subsequently, due to the presence of moisture in the system, the compressor will fail. Don't do this!

[@StephenFixesThings]

MrCool lines are pre charged, no vac lines. One of the only mini split companies that do that which makes it a truly a DIY kit.