Installing A Mustang or other Offset Bridge on Squier J. Mascis Jazzmaster ($3 AOM/TOM MOD)

[@delayedpilot]

This is great dude. Amazing that all the pages and pages of forum threads I’ve read about the bridge troubles and all it takes is a visit to the hardware store.

[@Puisheen]

What a cool idea!

[@feinkevi]

🙏 Love your channel, Mike - thanks for so much great info! I had a commenter on Reddit say this worked great for his Classic Player as well so prob worth trying on any TOM JM.

[@surf247365]

Anyone try a roller bridge?

[@ebanizalex]

@@surf247365yes, but it’s a mis-matched radius. The neck is 9.5 and the bridge is 12. But I don’t mind it. I play in drop c so it works for me.

[@mattdoliver1984]

Oh bro you've just saved my day, i ordered a jazzmaster body for a build, its getting here tomorrow and i was just looking at it on the website, didn't realise it was drilled out for a TOM bridge

[@vinniesworld459]

This was very helpful. I built a partscaster that I initially drilled for a TOM roller bridge, but now want the option to go back to a normal mustang bridge without major surgery (and w/o spending an arm and a leg for a mastery). This was the perfect solution. Thank you!!!

[@VenancioPortalatin]

Thank you for making this video. Such a simple solution. I was getting ready to plug and redrill my bridge holes so i could put a mustang bridge in but i think I’ll try this 1st.

[@stevewoodward7853]

This is brilliant. Gonna do this mod to my JMJM asap.

[@rong648]

I had my tune-o-matic bridge radiused to 9.5". It plays so much better.

[@shawn_hatfield]

How did you have this done?

[@rong648]

@@shawn_hatfield I took to my local music and had them radius it for me. I would have tried it myself if I had a 9.5" radius gauge. Watch this video: Fret buzz can be caused by the bridge! - KZbin

[@ClarkClark-x4u]

The pick guard is lifting up a little near one of the bridge posts. This is likely due to having the grub screws coming out of the bottom of the threaded insert. Screwing it in further prys the insert out of the cavity, which then lifts the pick guard. Shorter grub would give you more “headroom” before it started to pry.

[@feinkevi]

Yep, good eye! Another commenter somewhere mentioned running into the same thing and that’s definitely where it comes from. In retrospect I def recommend using shorter grub screws than I did but it’s not been enough of a problem for me to go in and redo it, just a slight cosmetic thing. Edit: I can’t change the video after upload but went ahead and changed the video description with that recommendation.

[@feinkevi]

Oh and a few days later I went ahead and swapped out to the shorter grub screws I had on hand, and was able to tap the thimble down and screw the pick guard back down flat super easily.

[@k-dogstor1170]

Sweet this is exactly what i needed! Wanting to change the bridge on my classic player jazzmaster.

[@ThePonDePon]

M8 fits vintera jaguar, just tried it and it was a major upgrade

[@feinkevi]

🤘

[@chriscarrillo967]

super sweet and to the point. thanks friend, going to try to use this on my squier... cheers

[@eternallearner8185]

I did this mod as described above well worth the effort. I recently read about another way of doing the mod, and that is screw the original adjustomatic posts back into the body, then drill the adjusting posts out of the Mustang bridge, then drill those now vacant holes out to the same diameter as the adjustor posts from the original bridge, drop the Mustang on and adjust height with the original posts. I much prefer this way of having a Mustang bridge on the Mascis.

[@gloryxkid]

I’ve done both and prefer removing the legs and widening the holes. Had a hard time keeping it in tune with these m8 thimbles

[@vacumatic]

I just did this mod to my Squier Jazzmaster DeLuxe. I installed a Fender American Pro bridge. Fantastic. Thanks for this video!

[@feinkevi]

Excellent, glad it worked out for you!

[@Lmachine1]

THANKYOU for this vid! I'll be knocking on Ace Hardware's front door the minute they open tomorrow morning so I can pickup a spring and 2 set screws. The Staytrem bridge I ordered on backorder like 4 months ago just arrived today and I need to install on my jmascis jazzmaster ASAP. (If you know, you know.)

[@feinkevi]

Awesome! Yes I did the long wait for a staytrem for my other JM and it was well worth it. As I’m hearing from other commenters, you may want to grab a couple of lengths of set screw as you may need something shorter than I used depending on how you want it set up. Good luck!

[@Lmachine1]

@@feinkevi I read this reply AFTER my second trip to the hardware store to get much shorter set screws, haha. Got it all set up and loving the StayTrem bridge so much betterrrr :)

[@benm8027]

Did this with a jmjm and an am pro bridge. Worked pretty well, ended up not using springs. The 8mm’s seemed to fit way better than the 12’s for me. Plays great! Thanks for the idea.

[@feinkevi]

I think I would probably use 8s if I were doing this again, as I did have to crank the 12s down in there pretty good. Anyway, good to hear it's working out!

[@benm8027]

@@feinkevi yeah, this might have been specific to my guitar but I had a ton of excess ground wire in the hole where the thimbles are so I wasn’t able to fit the 12s or a spring without the bridge being way too high on the right side of the guitar. But with the 8s the bridge height is perfect. Thanks again for this idea, I’ve always wanted to put a better bridge on my jmjm but I didn’t want to go through the hassle of trying to find some drop in thimbles.

[@Rainy78]

No intonation or tuning issues at all doing this? Im looking at buying the exact bridge for mine. I like my action low and thinking 8mm too. Is the string spacing good? Thanks!

[@benm8027]

@@Rainy78 String spacing is good and stays in tune a hell of a lot better than my telecaster. The intonation isn't too far off, I roughly set it and I've only had issues with the intonation of the low e. I can still get it close though.

[@benm8027]

Part of the tuning stability may be because I also replaced the tailpiece with a locking American trem. Not sure if that has an impact though.

[@natepauzenga3293]

Thanks for this! Did exactly as you recommended on my Classic Player Jazzmaster and it works beautifully.

[@feinkevi]

Wonderful, glad it helped!

[@nchomsky]

This is a great resource, thanks for doing this. I've been considering a JM specifically to put in baritone B-B tuning, but I was hesitant to buy this otherwise mint 2011 MIM Classic Player for below market from a bud because of the AOM issues. It looks like stable baritone tuning on a CP JM is possible with these tweaks.

[@feinkevi]

Yeah, definitely should be. I’ve had this one setup this way for over a year with pretty regular use and it’s been great, not giving me any problems at all.

[@nchomsky]

Since Staytrem and Mastery are supposed to be drop-in with American spec thimbles, would you say your mod with the grub screws should also accommodate either of those bridges (or any upgrade bridge that claims drop-in compatibility with American JM bridges)? Cheers! @@feinkevi

[@feinkevi]

@@nchomskyI would think so, I’ve heard from others in these comments that the American Fender bridge worked fine for this, not sure I’ve heard anyone say they used a mastery but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work if the others do.

[@MrDavevr]

All ready to do some drilling but now I will wait a bit :)

[@mattperreault3518]

Great idea! Thanks!!

[@JayDolan0]

Genius! I was just about to return the American Professional bridge I bought, but now I’m off to ACE hardware instead! 🎉

[@feinkevi]

Right on! FYI as I’ve gathered from other comments, going for the shorter length grub screws seems to fit better, maybe 8mm. I had longer ones but had to really crank them in there to get the right bridge height.

[@adrianseifi8209]

Great video, very informative.

[@jasonwebster6397]

I did this same mod on classic player jaguar and worked a treat. Got the idea from a forum (think it was offsetguitars). Only other thing I had to do was put a M4 grub into the M8 grub as this was a better cradle for the bridge post screws.

[@alexpigment]

I believe the video above was based largely on an OffsetGuitars thread I wrote a few years back, and yes, I recommended using an M4 grub screw nested inside for a more focused pivot point compared to the larger cup of the M8. Obviously it's not explicitly necessary as the video above demonstrates, but I had a whole set from Amazon with different sizes, and it seemed like a good improvement to me. Glad to hear you found that addition to be useful as well :)

[@jasonwebster6397]

@@alexpigment Hi, yes, your solution was the best I found (and its good that you can go back to stock AOM if necessary, ie if you ever wanted to sell it)

[@feinkevi]

It took a lot of digging but I did find this idea in a forum thread buried on google, under a bunch of people convinced there were no options this simple, if it was you thank you! I’m not sure I would want a tighter fit of an M4 but I suppose I’d be curious to try it. I like having a bit of a pivot with using trem like a traditional offset bridge with this setup, and I don’t feel like it’s slipping around unexpectedly at all, so I don’t know that it would do much for me. I’m curious would you think that adding the m4 is more for people who do like the taped thimble thing and want it as rock solid as they can get? Do you not get any side to side wobble with the m4 just floating loose in the thimble? I suppose my only very minor concerns with that would be needing shorter set screws to be able to fit two in on top of one another, and having another point of transfer for grounding to strings and vibration to the body, but I’m sure those variables are pretty darn negligible. At any rate, glad it’s working for you guys and you’re up and running with the bridge you prefer!

[@alexpigment]

​@@feinkevi Honestly, I don't think the bridge pivoting changes in any significant way with the nested M4, and certainly is not similar to wrapping tape around the posts. It just takes what would otherwise be a millimeter or less point of contact and makes it several millimeters. I would think the grounding issue that can happen when one of the bridge legs lifts off while using the trem should be *less* likely with the nested M4. I also at the time felt that it came back to "zero" more effectively (though I later found out that some of that was just the MIM trem spring on my guitar). The added height wasn't an issue at all, since the M8 is just screwed down a few more millimeters will lots of room to spare. With all that being said, I think there's a lot to be said in boiling something down to the essentials and showing a method with the least amount of parts. If just the M8 grub screw works without any issues on your guitar, there's really no need to complicate it further :) Lastly, if you want to see a visual diagram of what I think the nested M4 does, just google 'grub screw aom' and that thread should come up at the top.

[@feinkevi]

@@alexpigment right on yeah I found it - that was not where I read about this originally but its definitely interesting seeing this idea floating around out there more than I realized. Whoever I read about the springs from probably got it from you haha. Maybe I got lucky with the screws that I found, mine seem to differ from what you had in that they were not flat cut at the bottom, they were conical (as others in your thread mention re: grub screws that are good for backing them in from underneath if you want to get that involved). I bought 8 and 12mm length options and used the 12s, so I just checked my spare 8s - they are also conical at the bottom of the hex head/not flat where the mustang bridge's screws touch down, so these seem to function like the bottom of a regular thimble as is. I suppose I have no idea how common or not common that is amongst hex head set screws, but sounds like it's worth noting and checking for when trying this. For whatever it's worth I swapped to the mustang bridge, added a TUSQ nut, and put in a CIJ trem tailpiece and beat the hell out of it to test tuning stability and it held really rock solid. I have been playing it like this a lot over the last two months and its definitely holding up. Anyway thanks for chiming in, sounds like a good thing to look out for and an easy alternative method to try if you're having tuning issues.

[@gulapula]

Does anyone know how this process differs for japanese style mustang bridge? ordered a fully adjustable japanese mustang bridge, which i assume has different size posts, will m8 grub screws be enough to fit it into my J Mascis?

[@dannymartinez2165]

Thank you so much dor the video - just had a couple questions. Where did you buy the mustang bridge and is there a specific price-tag or model number that I should be looking out for to replicate this project? Furthermore, where can I find the entire video of you replacing the tailpeice, arm, nut and bridge? Many thanks - Daniel

[@feinkevi]

Hi Danny - unfortunately I can’t say exactly what model number bridge I used here, as this Mustang bridge came on another jazzmaster that I bought second hand. I’ll have to look closely for any markings some time as I’ve been asked that before. The radius is 9.5” which matches the neck on the J Mascis, you’ll want a match to whatever model of guitar you’re putting it on, you might need a 7.25” depending. As for the rest of the mods, I did run video of the whole project but never ended up editing anything else together. It’s pretty time consuming to make these videos and ultimately I decided everything else I did was covered well enough elsewhere on KZbin already.

[@dannymartinez2165]

@@feinkevi You are the man. God bless! Many thanks - Danny

[@AlbanDericbourg]

Great mod! I'm seeing that a Mustang bridge has a 55mm spacing between low E saddle and high E saddle (string to string). The AoM bridge on my JMJM has a 51mm spacing. How does this impacts playability on yours?

[@pedroberoes49]

this is great, im about to do some wiring upgrades to mine and I bought a fender JM bridge only to find out the J Mascis had the adjustomatic lmao, gonna be dfinitely putting this on there to try out. one thing though, what type of spring is that?? UPDATE: I did this mod and i have some info for people who are thinking about it, i would really recommend going with the 8mm set screw, i like low action, and those give you a good low action when you screw them far in with the spring and also with the guitar set up and shimmed correctly (my bridge has adjustable height saddles so it makes it easier for me to fine tune my action). But overall a very good upgrade and very worth it, im happy with the results.

[@feinkevi]

Just found a misc spring at the hardware store, not much more than you might find in a pen or something. I would suggest going shorter with the grub screw than I did, sounds like people are liking 8mm or 10mm better than the 12 that I used.

[@pedroberoes49]

​@@feinkevi thanks dude, i was stressing for a bit because im not really a fan of the stock bridge. I would have never thought of this

[@benarenger3840]

Thanks for uploading this. Sorry if this is a dumb question but you mention Staytrem. I think they used to make the thimbles you are talking but maybe stopped? Their site says that the bridge they sell is not compatible with tune-o-matics. But I imagine your solution means that I could just get a Staytrem and get it to work with the JMJM?

[@feinkevi]

Apparently Staytrem used to sell little adapter screws that would accomplish this same thing, but they do not any more. A new Staytrem would be just the bridge piece for a standard jazzmaster thimble. And yep, this fix would allow you to use one of them on AOM thimbles.

[@JaimeBond0010]

I've done this mod on my JMJM squier (using a mustang bridge) and it's worked beautifully! Thanks heaps for the hack! The only issue I've run into is the action seems to decrease slowly over time until frets begin to buzz. (This is with the springs underneath the grub screws too). Has anyone else had this problem? And is there any fix other than just locktiting everything?

[@feinkevi]

I’d try to verify if it’s the grub screws moving or the adjustment screws on the Mustang bridge itself. Mine hasn’t moved at all since first doing this a year ago and I don’t have any loctite on it, so my first guess might be that your bridge needs loctite? Not a big deal if you use the blue stuff, do not use the green or red as those are meant to be permanent.

[@Rainy78]

Any issues with tuning, intonation, height @ everybody who did this? Is it possible to just replace thimbles to match an american pro bridge with existing holes? I bought the bridge and just curious to know everybody's thoughts. I like my action low. Thanks in advance! 👍

[@feinkevi]

Tuning intonation and height have all been great and rock solid for me for a year now since doing this. Action is plenty low, but I did have to shim the neck to get the setup how I wanted it overall. If you’re comfortable with offset setup tinkering it should be super doable. My understanding is that replacing the thimbles will definitely require plugging and redrilling. While that is 100% the “correct” way to do this, obviously it is a lot more invasive and permanent. My two cents are that this workaround has been plenty good enough for me so far, but if you have the tools to do the thimbles and are sure you want to switch there’s not really any reason not to other than preserving the option of putting it back to stock for resale.

[@Rainy78]

@@feinkevi Fantastic! Thank you for your honest reply! Im going to do it! 👌

[@007bennett]

I have a squire deluxe jazzmaster ST. Basically the same as the Mascis expect it's a hadtail. I replaced the hardtail with a Duesenberg trem II. I want to replace the TOM with an AP bridge like you've done here but it looks like it'll be too high? Like I would have to shim the neck if I did what you did here?

[@feinkevi]

I have mine set high with a neck shim in mind - if you're not doing a shim, I'm sure you could still do this and set it much lower, but I'd suggest going on the shorter end of the range for the set screw, maybe an 8mm length, or a 10 and clip the spring pretty short to be sure you have enough room to go as low as you'd like.

[@svenblau]

Did the brigde swap to Mustang Brigde to both my Squier J Mascis and the CP Jazzmaster of a friend of mine. With your method, the action will get too high, as it can bve seen in the video itself. If you want to do this properly, you have to get the original TOM Thimbles out and replace them with the Mustang Bridge Thimbles. Getting those thimbles out can be horrible as sometimes these are so tight like glued. But with a bit effort and patience it is possible, just screw in the brigde posts halfway and then use pliers or something to loosen the thimbles. It is a bit like a tooth extraction ;) Then insert the Mustang Thimbles and there you go.

[@feinkevi]

The first shot shows the action too high just after throwing it on there, but after a neck shim and a setup it’s actually spot on. The relatively higher placement from the body does give it a steeper break angle which actually helps in this instance with string tension, as I’ve set it up for B standard tuning. You’re right that a thimble swap is the correct thing to do, but if done thoughtfully this method does work well, is far easier, and is easily reversible.

[@jasonswitzer1748]

Hey man… when I looked at your Mustang bridge, it has tiny screws on the bottom of the “posts?” that are at the bottom of the bridge (the posts are attached to the bridge). I was looking at a Modified Mustang Bridge from Warmoth and in the tiny screws at the bottom of the posts do not appear in the photos of their bridge. Is this normal? Will the Warmoth Modified Mustang bridge work like yours in this video? Thanks!

[@feinkevi]

I have never seen one of those Warmoth bridges in person so I can’t say for sure but every Jazzmaster or Mustang bridge I have seen has had a height adjustment. The warmoth one has individual saddle adjustments but I can’t imagine the overall height can’t be adjusted as well. Maybe a call to warmoth could clear that up for you.

[@jasongirard813]

Great work around! What change in sound/playability did you notice? Also, what pickups do you have installed?

[@feinkevi]

I like the mustang bridge vastly better. It fixed the radius mismatch between bridge and neck so the string action feels better. It’s more comfortable on the palm. Works far better with the trem for tuning stability. Pickups are Fender Pure Vintage 65s. They’re a little bright and a little quiet but overall I really like them quite a lot, very easy to dial in a wide range of very cool jazzmastery sounds.

[@jasongirard813]

@@feinkevi Rad! I’m stoked it addressed the mismatch!

[@vicente-et7px]

does this work for mastery bridge?

[@feinkevi]

I haven’t tried it on one but can’t see why it would sit in there any differently, unless its height adjustment screws on the bottom function differently for some reason. So I think so but don’t 100% take that as a guarantee.

[@DE_Razor_Shaving]

I actually did this to my JMJM today. I used M8 6mm 1.25 with springs. Turned out awesome! And now acoustically, with no amp, just playing the guitar, it seems brighter and much louder now! Did you experience this as well being a bit louder tone wise? Thank you very much for your video man! 😁👍🏼

[@feinkevi]

🤘glad it’s working for you! I had mine torn apart for a good while doing some other things to it so I didn’t get a quick back to back AB to say for sure it’s much louder or anything, that said mine is definitely plenty lively now with the Mustang bridge. Enjoy!

[@DE_Razor_Shaving]

@@feinkevi ohhh. Ok. Cool! 😁👍🏼

[@wannabeb.a.r.man.8859]

What trem unit did you purchase for it? I’d like to avoid purchasing one that doesn’t match the holes from the stock trem.

[@feinkevi]

This was a second hand Fender CIJ trem and arm from Reverb, not sure which model it came from specifically. It fit right in with no modification, but the B string was ever so slightly rubbing against the collet on the trem arm when used, so I did end up plugging and redrilling several of the holes to be able to tweak the angle slightly and resolve that problem. So fair warning there is some room for error even swapping out technically matching parts. That said it was a very easy adjustment as far as these things go.

[@ryanfreedman6348]

Hey any chance anyone has the spring size that works best, considering this mod for my JMJM

[@feinkevi]

I hear from several folks to stick to the shorter end of the set screws range listed here. As for the spring I don’t think it matters much as long as it fits in the hole, so smaller than the set screw in diameter, and can clip the length down to size easily.

[@unmusicalgenius7142]

Doing this mod and also have JMJM. Question: What size shim did you add to the neck?

[@feinkevi]

I bought the set of three from Stew Mac, .25 .5 and 1° so that I’d have options. I don’t think there’s a one size fits everyone answer, but for this guitar the 1° was too much and the .5° was just about right.

[@unmusicalgenius7142]

@@feinkevi thanks for the info. Just got an American Pro Bridge, looking forward to tackling this project this weekend

[@PNNYRFACE]

What are the purple pickups you have on that guitar? Thanks

[@feinkevi]

Prior owner’s wife had painted the stock pickup covers purple, those are just the Squier JMJM pickups, which I replaced with Fender Pure Vintage 65’s.

[@PNNYRFACE]

Thanks for the response! And the video. Bout to try this out

[@Joormode]

Where do you buy that Mustang 9.5” radius bridge ?

[@feinkevi]

This particular bridge actually came on a used CIJ Jazzmaster that I bought a while back, the previous owner had put on this mustang bridge. I upgraded the CIJ to a Staytrem and moved its Mustang bridge to this JMJM. There are a few varieties out there in 9.5. If you don’t want to break the bank I imagine the Allparts one works just fine.

[@thecappy]

Is the AOM bridge that bad? I see you have a different vibrato on it too.

[@feinkevi]

A few people seem to like them, but for me it def had to go. The tuning stability while using the vibrato with everything stock was really quite bad, pretty much unusable. There are things I could have done to make it work a bit better as it was, but after swapping the bridge, vibrato (Fender CIJ), and nut (TUSQ) the tuning is rock solid. Aside from tuning, another major issue is the radius mismatch. The radius on the stock bridge is flatter than the fretboard, so no matter how you set it up, the action on the outer strings is higher than the inner strings. (Easier to fret and bend the D&G than the A&B which are easier than E&E). This Mustang bridge is a 9.5” radius matching the fretboard, making it way more comfortable to play. It’s also more comfortable on the palm and looks better with the offset aesthetic. Again, some people like them and that’s fine, but it was a necessary change for me for sure.

[@thecappy]

@@feinkevi thank you for the detailed reply. There is a 1st Gen (rosewood fretboard )JMJM near me for sale. I was researching it and found your video. So besides the bride what else have you done, or do you have a video on it?

[@feinkevi]

@@thecappy I recorded a bunch more clips but haven’t had time to piece together any more yet. All in all I did the bridge, vibrato tailpiece, nut, neck shim, and pickups. I went with Fender Pure Vintage 65 pickups to get more of a traditional jazzmaster sound. The stock pickups are P90s, and sound very good for that style but it wasn’t what I wanted, so I’d say a pickup swap is totally optional depending on what you are looking for. The neck shim is also optional, I needed it for the way I wanted to set up the guitar but it wasn’t strictly necessary.

[@thecappy]

@@feinkevi I have a black Japanese (Inoran sig) jazzmaster with the ‘65 pickups. I was thinking of putting in P90 jazzmaster pickups in, but figured the JMJM already has them and the neck is supposed to be really good on them.

[@tonycaldron6886]

I don’t think it’s that bad. I have a Fender Kurt Cobain Jaguar. The AOM bridge radius is 10.5 so it’s not a lot different than the 9.5 neck radius. I did this grub screw mod like the video above shows and it definitely works. But the floating bridge doesn’t move very much when using the tremolo and still can get out of tune. I decided to put the AOM bridge back on. I have it set up perfectly and can use the tremolo without it getting out of tune. Or at least not any more out of tune than when I was using the floating bridge. I think the AOM bridge gets a bad rap. It’s not great but it’s far from being terrible

[@Irkennalpha]

The bridge looks quite high, aren’t you having tuning stability issues with that height. Because I’m having them and I believe this is the cause : /

[@feinkevi]

It’s very high in the first shot as I’d just dropped it on and hadn’t adjusted the height yet. The “after setup” shot shows where I have it now. This is still relatively high, but I’ve also shimmed the neck which keeps the action low with the raised bridge. Action is perfect and tuning is rock solid stable. A higher bridge increases break angle on the strings and should actually making tuning more stable I suppose, unless you’ve created high action issues that bend notes out of pitch when fretting? IMO tuning stability likely culprits on the JMJM are the TOM bridge, squier vibrato tailpiece, and the plastic nut, all of which I replaced at once so I can’t say how much each of those individually helped me. I could also see the tuners being trouble as they aren’t awesome but they’ve been good enough for me not to bother replacing them.

[@Irkennalpha]

@@feinkevi I have a 'Noventa' Jazzmaster that also came stock with a TOM. It was moving a lot so I changed it to a regular rocking JM bridge. I also shimmed the neck and raised the bridge as much as it appears in your picture, however the tuning stability that I once had with the TOM is now gone. I also replaced the vibrato for a Panorama, which might be the real issue here. That's why I was wondering how was you experience with a raised bridge. I love how they feel, very confortable for my playing style. Anyway, thanks for your reply : )

[@NorseLax07]

Which bridge did you use for this mod?

[@feinkevi]

A 9.5” radius mustang bridge. I don’t actually know the exact model as it came installed on my other jazzmaster when I purchased it second hand.

[@bullit4x]

Gonna give it a shot. Hopefully saved me a huge hassle. Just bought a vintera 60's jazzmaster and that damn Tom bridge sucks. Why fender did this I have no idea. Thank you for posting this. Going to Lowe's when I get off work. You have no idea how stoked I am. I really dislike that aom bridge. What radius is that mustang bridge? 7.25? I can't find one for a 9.5 radius. Gonna have to use another type of bridge. Or is the difference between the two insignificant ?

[@feinkevi]

The vintera should be a 7.25” radius no? The one I used here is a 9.5 which matches the mascis, but I don’t actually know the exact model# or anything, as I took it off my CIJ Jazzmaster (prior owner had put it on). That CIJ is a 7.25” neck and I got by ok using the 9.5” bridge for several years but I’ve gotta say - now that I’ve switched to matched 7.25’s on the CIJ and 9.5’s on this Mascis, I really wish I didn’t wait so long. The mismatch isn’t terrible, but it’s definitely and noticeably better getting it right. Good luck sorting it out!

[@bullit4x]

I have the vintera modified. It's 9.5. Radius I found a vintera jag/jazz bridge with with adjustable radius. So it should work perfect (being both mim). The hardest part is finding the 8mmx12 grub screws. I'll give you a heads up when I get everything and if it works for me.

[@bullit4x]

@@feinkevi just wanted to tell ya it worked perfect. Some tweaking ( had to use a 10mm set screw) and some back and forth to get my action how I like it. But a awesome hack. Plus saved a ton of money. Thanks again.

[@feinkevi]

@@bullit4x fantastic, thanks for the update and glad it worked!