Installing Clubsport S parts on my MK7 GTI - Part 2

So it's finally done. I've finally fully installed the CSS spindles (knuckles/hub carriers). My Clubsport is now one step closer to having a full "S" chassis in place. This video is about the installation of the spindles, special tools required to complete the installation, but is not a complete walk-through. I round it off with a quick drive and then reveal the new alignment results.
Track Hack Parts now live
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CSS spindles and hubs
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[@TheXpto00]

Is it a worth mod for daily driving (with ocasional spirited backroafd)?

[@trackhackau]

I think it depends on what your ultimate goals are and your approach to modding. To be honest camber tops will get you the same result for less. I took this OEM approach as a starting point as I can then later add aftermarket parts to get even more camber.

[@charlessprinkle2494]

Will you end up going for the CSS spring swap to get the full 2deg?

[@trackhackau]

Honestly I'm in two minds about that. Part of me wants to install the full "S" chassis to get as close the to CSS as possible. But part of me thinks the incremental difference over the Clubsport springs will not be worth it. The next step for more camber will probably be replacement LCA. I have Whiteline LCA ready to go on but I'd also like to try TTS arms with the adjustable lower ball joints. Perhaps I'll do both, for science :)

[@andrewkendall1425]

Charles Sprinkle so update to this is that I now have -2.2 deg after a better alignment. So no need to do anything else really. Whiteline have a new product out. Roll centre adjuster that also has adjustable camber. Worth a look I reckon.

[@keithbowen9561]

How about putting in the Clubsport S alloy subframe - I believe its stiffer and a few pounds lighter than the pressed steel version.

[@trackhackau]

Keith Bowen Hi mate. Alloy subframe is certainly something I want to do. Just haven’t pulled the trigger on it yet. Costly for the gains but worthwhile for when it’s all together I think. Also been considering if it’s something I will tackle myself or have a shop do.

[@keithbowen9561]

@@trackhackau You can find used alloy subframes pretty cheaply or try e-acca. I'm interested in trying these Clubsport S parts on my R. Will I noticed the 2kg drop using the CSS rotors in terms of wheel control? Does the CSS have differing anti-roll bars? How much lighter is the CSS battery? Are the CSS springs lower and stiffer than the CS/R springs? Are CSS parts better than aftermarket 'upgrades' ? So many questions! Looking forward to some of these CSS parts on my R to improve the turn in and have a more engaged drive.

[@trackhackau]

I’ve found used is still like $550. I can get a new one from e-acca or cars245 for not much more. I don’t think you will notice the 1kg per side much. But it all adds up. I put on 2kg a side lighter wheels though and felt a small difference. But only the first time I drove it really. CSS RSB is about 17% stiffer only. So maybe not really worth it. Although a lot cheaper than aftermarket. Front is the same as a CS/PP. Battery is about 10kg lighter. I’ll have a video on batteries in the not too distant future. Springs do have different part numbers. I think front is a touch lower and stiffer to get the full -2deg camber compared to my -1,57” but not a big difference. Rear must be different due to the weight difference but there is not a lot of info out there on them. “Better” depends on your point of view and objective. I think generally an OEM part will be made to a very high standard. But in saying that there is always cost compromise. For example pressed steel LCA/subframe and plastic RSB endlinks. So I think it depends what part and what you need out of the part. I like OEM for its high manufacturing standards and NVH attributes. Especially the CSS parts as they were selected by Porsche engineers to make a car go fast around the ring and last a long time. They would compliment an R very well. Would be a weapon.

[@keithbowen9561]

@@trackhackau I was going to put a CSS battery in my R however there are now great Li-ion aftermarket options, although pricey...huge of mass of weight mounted so high up. Will look forward to a feature on that. I'd like the Super-Pro LCA's but they are a solid chunk of coin too.

[@andrewkendall1425]

Keith Bowen look into Whiteline LCA. Also great quality, two versions depending how aggressive you want the caster and they are cheaper and often on sale. Also the option of TTS LCA with the adjustable lower ball joints. The cost about the same as aftermarket. Downside is the push the track out quite a bit so wouldn’t work well with BBK and OEM wheels.

[@johnzhu5735]

It would have been really helpful if your video actually had you doing the install

[@trackhackau]

I’m trying to be more of a “why” channel than a “how” channel. I’m not a mechanic so don’t want to show how crappy I am and turning 🔧

[@johnzhu5735]

@@trackhackau I get what you mean but we already know why and your video title gives the impression that I am going to learn how to do it by watching you do it..