Installing EG4 6000xp Inverter and NEW Power Pro wall mount budget battery & Critical Loads setup

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Affiliate links Here’s links to the package I have on the wall including the conduit box. Signature solars link signaturesolar.com/eg4-wallmount-indoor-battery-280ah-51-2v-eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-bundle-8000w-pv-input-6000w-output-all-in-one-solar-inverter-bndl-e0009/?ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo Current connected’s link www.currentconnected.com/product/eg4-budget-battery-backup-kit-6000xp-inverter-wallmount-battery-kit/?ref=xhJJBPDS

[@doodle1811]

Hey Gavin I’m building a skoolie conversion and I want to be on and off grid. I am not super sure on if I need a critical load panel. I know I have a 50 amp shore connection and I’m going with the eg6000xp. Could I just have the main panel or will I need two. I’m lost on that.

[@tbernaciak9543]

Tip from a person who works in a UL 508a industrial control panel shop: for very fine strand wire, use a ferule/ring lug 1 size larger than your wire size. 2/0 fine strand = 3/0 ring lug.

[@justanotherdillhole7824]

how about ul 5964? what are your thoughts on this guys video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2impHejZquZmKs

[@carlossantini]

Great vid! Install a bypass. If the inverter fails your critical loads will be without power!

[@tonyste12]

One of the best videos with a diagram making even more clear for people.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Thank you. Although I can’t take credit for the diagram. Someone from the DIY solar forum was kind enough to send it to me for the video.

[@tonyste12]

@@GavinStoneDIY respect for giving dues where is do

[@robthebuilder4004]

Awesome video and Very well explain one question is how many solar panels do you have and what size are they?

[@jimgraham290]

Gavin, great job. I will be ordering this bundle soon. I plan on feeding the main panel through a breaker with a generator interlock. I will feed the grid in from above the 200 amp main breaker. There is another video out there doing that config. I will have the new ChargeVerter to charge the battery from my existing 120v generator. This config should cover all my bases. Again, great job with your videos!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

This would be a more rare wiring setup. But yeah I’ve seen it done. Essentially making your main panel a critical loads panel. I would have to see the wiring schematic on it again. And this will work as long as your inverter/inverters can supply all your loads. Let me know how the install goes. I always like to hear from people

[@dubas1974]

Flipping fantastic video. Love the detail. I'm happy KZbin suggested it. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Man that’s awesome. Thank you so much! I really need to put aside some time to make more videos like this. I try to cover all the things I think people may want to know. I know I had a lot of questions when I started out.

[@CROSpunkie]

Can you please make a similar video that goes over the "lightning and surge arrestors" that are now included in most signature solar off-grid bundles? Also I really love how clearly you explained things in this video, especially running the grounding wires. I've watched plenty of others videos doing similar setups but I would always come away confused how the grounding should look across the entire system.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Really appreciate that. I’ll try to make another surge protection video at some point. I did one on EMP shields. But I do like the midnight solar ones also. And they are definitely good to have.

[@styes1]

This is absolutely the best video showing how to wire this inverter into a breaker. I am a complete novice and I understand perfectly now what to do.😊 Thanks

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I’m really glad it helped. It’s funny, the whole time I was making the video I was wondering if it was going to come out ok. 🙂

[@AdamDeLayDIY]

But I don’t need any help….the colors don’t match! 😂😂😂 Great job! Lots of helpful info!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Haha. I left them that way just for people like yourself. There’s hope. Recovery is possible. 😉

[@AdamDeLayDIY]

@@GavinStoneDIY 🤣

[@WattsMiner]

Using 3 in parallel to power a country store "livn Green" we use 180kwh daily 😀 so this is huge for us. Made 96kw in one day and its early April 👍.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Wow that is awesome!

[@chuckyaunk6040]

Thanks Gavin, enjoy the time you put into these informative videos for solar.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Wow! Thank you so much.

[@SoCoguy]

Really hit the mark on answers to questions someone needed to help with on these units. Thank you Gavin!!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Really glad it was helpful!

[@jkee6146]

Can't tell you how much your videos have helped! Most of us are visual learners and you've helped me design my system (mentally) so I knew what steps to take and how to lay it all out. Cheers!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

This is always great to hear. I’m really glad I could help. I know I definitely learn better visually.

[@michaelshin69]

Just installed two 6000s. Really enjoy ypur videos.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

That’s awesome!

[@jasonbroom7147]

Talk to me a little more about that OCD treatment! ;) Nice video and something I hope will be useful in the near future.

[@BucolicAholic]

Great job explaining, for a newb like me you really make me feel like I con-duit.

[@capitanocorelli1781]

This video was very helpful. Thank you. We are in Toronto, Canada. Not a normal locale for an off-grid setup. Especially if the house doesn't have solar. But in our case, it would make sense. Not only to make full use of the "off peak" rate, but also to make full use of the EV. I was already considering the 6000XP with a small battery so I could use the EV for vehicle-to-grid power. Our house is without heat if the electricity goes down. Your explanation of the critical load panel or subpanel and the way to connect it was almost the last piece of the puzzle. The EV has a 72.6 kWh battery which converts to 605 Ah at 120V or 302.5 Ah at 240V so it's a decent size. It is already capable of vehile-to-load up to 16 W. The Power Pro would make a good intermediary battery between the car and the house. Just need to figure out how to connect it properly. Again, Thank you so much Gavin Stone DIY Homestead.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Love the idea of being able to use an EV storage to supplement your home storage. I still want to do something like that eventually.

[@iowac]

I used a reusable zip tie to tie the copper strands to get lug on

[@Puzzledtoo]

Ahhhhhh, thank you! This is exactly the explanation I was looking for! I can't thank you enough. I've had all the equipment for months but wasn't satisfied that I knew how to hook up. Life saving explanation.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Really glad it could help. I remember installing my first system. I watched videos repeatedly until I was confident enough. I would pause and play as I built attached component. 🙂

[@Puzzledtoo]

@@GavinStoneDIY Can you tell me where I would connect the ground wire from my solar panels? To the ground bar in my main house panel? Thanks so much!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@Puzzledtoo ideally yes, it would run to your main grounding electrode. By code that’s what’s required.

[@Puzzledtoo]

@@GavinStoneDIY Excellent, thanks!

[@chuckyaunk6040]

Enjoyed the video. I have my 6000xp in the garage not installed just yet and my battery and conduit box arrived today so I will have this exact same setup. I currently have a manual transfer switch for some of my critical loads and will run load out to it. May need to install a second transfer switch to move more circuits over. I thought about just running load out to a breaker in main panel but know it won’t run my dryer and stove so would be a hassle to shut everything down when I wanted to use those particular circuits. Never heard of anyone using two transfer switches but should be okay to do.

[@dlbalzotti]

I love you. This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Glad it helped!

[@bitmanone4657]

Great video! I have a 6000xp on it's way, along with some EG4 LL batteries. I was going to run a setup similar to yours, but you enlightened me to realizing I only have to transfer the hots to the sub panel. I totally missed that I can leave the current neutral and grounds for each circuit at the main since the sub panel neutral and ground are tied back to the 6000XP and pass thru to the main panel. I though I was going to have to transfer the entire 12-2 wiring for each circuit over. This will make things so much simpler with 1/3rd the amount of wires running through the conduit! Thank you!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yeah it makes things a lot easier. And can save some money too. I’m glad it helped.

[@ETTE-d4z]

@@GavinStoneDIY No you can't all wires have to be brought over to the sub panel.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@ you’re welcome to transfer all of them over if you’d like. Have you looked up wiring diagrams for this inverter?

[@bitmanone4657]

@@ETTE-d4z The 6000XP's wiring diagram allows the neutral and ground to tie back to the main. As long as you don't bond the neutral and ground in the sub panel or on the 6000XP, you are able to simply transfer the hots. The only limitation is current, so exceeding the capacity of the 6000XP or the sub panel should be considered since most main service panels are 200+ amp service. My 6000XP has been working it's butt off for about 2 months now, running a 4000W panel and servicing an assortment of 6 breakers in the sub panel (critical loads). No issues with the setup.

[@Michelle-pg3hz]

Great video. I have some questions. If I have 2 (or more) 6000xp in parallel, do I need a separate breaker in the main panel to supply grid power to each 6000xp? If I have 2 of the 6000xp inverters in parallel can I connect my 240v 30a pure sine wave inverter generator to just one of the 6000xps? Thanks for taking the time to encourage and share knowledge with some solar newbies!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

So I prefer separate breakers. But you can also combine inputs and outputs of both inverters. It just takes more work. I like to have a dedicated disconnect to each inverter. With the generator feed you would need to supply power to both inverters. So you’d need to split the output of the generator. Or turn off one inverter when using generator. It’s honestly easier to use the chargeveter in these cases.

[@Michelle-pg3hz]

@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks, that helps us plan things out

[@timmazich3740]

Best explanation yet!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Really appreciate that. Hope it helps.

[@mntmike67]

Thank you for clarifying the 480vdc per mppt, even with an email to eg4 and Signaturesolar the wording of the response was a little confusing, I was 99% certain but you removed that last bit of doubt. Yes I am I do know temp. will play a part in the actual voltage transmitted. I will only be running about 320vd per string but with 2 strings, I worried I would exceed the capacity.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yeah I think most the people in the actual tech field assume we can understand the lingo.😁 that’s why I try to use words like “per” and “independent”. I think it’s easier to understand

[@RyanSloan-w8g]

That’s exactly how I’m doing. My offgrade cabin is how you showed it. I just wanna know if I can use a 110 generator to charge the batteries if the solar’s not working or not sunny enough

[@Mgamerz]

Great video. I hope to find the funds someday to do this! Very thorough.

[@MrShaneo369]

Great video

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Thank you. I really appreciate that

[@nukeguy06]

Very helpful! Appreciate your explanations!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Glad to help. Thanks for watching

[@arjley7448]

Thank you for sharing your diagram. From the spec sheet it seems that the inverter accepts a maximum of 480 VDC input, not per MPPT.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The spec sheet is correct. It just doesn’t word it as “per”. The inputs are independent. So the voltage isn’t shared between the two.

[@TylerTheCompiler]

Great vid as always…looking forward to more on the NHX-10K. Maybe some grid interaction features like zero export. Will the NHX be able to supply main panel without feeding anything to the grid with help from the CT’s.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Thanks. Yeah I don’t have that unit on my wall anymore. But I know other KZbinrs will be making content on them soon. You’d need a monitoring system to see if there’s any backfeed when it’s on self consumption mode. I didn’t test that aspect.

[@andys5203]

Awsome presentation. So you don't need to move the neutral into the control panel?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

If you’re supplying grid power to the inverter for bypass, that will supply the neutral and ground. So at that point you’d just need to move the hots over.

[@terrybrown5883]

With all that EG4 system setup and 6 X 400 solar panels on the roof of my new Rv Thoughts FYI the new Trailer has a 12k mini split

[@GavinStoneDIY]

It could work. The more solar the better, but roof space is limited I know. But 280ah is a lot of storage. So it probably depends on where you’re going to be. Less sun, less power. Some areas like Arizona you’d have so much solar coming in it would be fine.

[@terrybrown5883]

So when the trailer comes in it will be easier to figure out I have also be thinking of just making a racking system to have 8 on the Trailer and 2 on the van 10X400 will be 4k

[@terrybrown5883]

@@GavinStoneDIY Since it’s a trailer Mono or Bifocal

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@terrybrown5883 mono is fine. Bifacial wouldn’t really give any gain that far from the surface.

[@terrybrown5883]

@@GavinStoneDIY I Thank you for all the Advice so I can make a simple easy decision for Build My Grandson loves that he will get this trailer when he get out of School in couple year and I retire

[@tjmooney4181]

Thanks for another great video 🙏

[@dannydang74]

Ok got it, TYSM Gavin

[@nelsonvelez2225]

Where is the six gauge cable that you bring to the breaker in the inverter connected to the grid? Can you show the other end of that cable?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I realized afterward that I left that out. That comes from the grid panel. A double pole 40 or 50 amp breaker as well.

[@dmills483]

I noticed in this video around 23:10 you didn't show or speak about the neutrals associated with each circuit being moved. Although the diagram 4:28 shows the neutral being tied together via the 6000 XP. I understand that the neutrals can stays in the main panel but you should make mention of them being left there and why that is so.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The neutral does get transferred over. But it gets transferred within the grid input. So when you add power from the grid panel to your XP for bypass power, it will also be supplying the neutral and ground. So in other words, it’s one large neutral and ground coming from the grid instead of adding them from each individual circuit.

[@onarom23]

Very helpfulf! Can this be installed on a mobile RV? What do I do with the ground? Is there a hack so it can it charge from an additional alternator?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I don’t believe you’d be able to charge it from an alternator directly. Honestly when it comes to mobile gear I don’t know as much. The grounding would be bonded to the chassis. I know quite a few people are using these in a mobile application.

[@jefflucas_life]

18:43 watching this far in the video I’m thinking about do we need permission permits from utility company?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

In some localities you will yes.

[@RetroHGenX]

The OCD joke earned my subscription. Lol

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Haha. Yeah just checking if anyone is actually listening. 😄

[@tabauknight]

Great you answered some great questions. Thank You 🤓

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Glad to help!

[@gerry654]

Really wonderful video

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Thanks for watching.

[@ericjansen9042]

Do you do plumbing too?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

😐

[@terrybrown5883]

I think there is a Firmware update version to be axle to use a 110 gas Generator

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yes. That came out a couple weeks back. It also allows AC coupling and 3 phase power.

[@terrybrown5883]

@@GavinStoneDIY I have a Honda EB2800I unit I use for my mobile work This is why all the Questions Since I am building a new Fiber Optic Lab with living space in the front office grid all electric I just ordered the trailer 101 wide 22 long with a Vnose Ac/heat pump is Seville 12k Fridge 7 to 10 size Water heater 110 on demand with on off switch All lights 12v led with couple lights 110 in work area 6 110 electric plug with 12v usb next to them 2 roof max air fans 12v Yes 48v battery with a step down to 12v Tv 110 Simple clean easy to setup on a Job or off time and No more Hotels

[@bigjohnharvey]

What an awesome video!!!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Thanks so much. I’m glad it could help

[@murrat]

Thanks. Great info

[@alexherrera3918]

Subscriber question: is there a way to wire the 6000xp without the critical load panel but still capable of charging the battery with grid power, assuming no solar panels available?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@alexherrera3918 technically yes, but not easily. The simplest and safest method is installing a critical loads panel.

[@prepsolar787]

either painted or get treatment for your ocd. made my day🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@GavinStoneDIY]

There’s help out there. 😁

[@bradcano5101]

Im a little confused as to where the grid power is coming from. You mentioned at 13:50 that you have grid power coming though that 6awg cable but where is the other end connected to? Is it directly connected to a power line or is to from the critical panel?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

It would come from your main grid panel. You’d have a 40 or 50 amp breaker. And that wire would feed into the grid port on the inverter. And the output of the inverter goes to a critical load panel. So it’s sorta like a large circle. So your main grid panel will have a conduit going to the critical loads panel, and that’s only to transfer all your circuits over. And then it will have a conduit going to the 6000XP to give it bypass power, for when your batteries run low and you need the grid to take over. I hope this helps.

[@bradcano5101]

Oh okay gotcha, I really had to take a closer look at the diagram from 4:00, and from what I understand is you essentially splice 2 wires from your main panel onto the grid port. Obviously there’s a 40 or 50 amp breaker in between as you mention. This did help a lot, thank you. 👍

[@klivenwoodworks4861]

What about using this off grid ? Where do I ground everything to? Do the solar panels get grounded to 6000xp or ground rod? Thanks, great video

[@GavinStoneDIY]

If you’re off grid the panel you’re feeding the output of the inverter to would essentially be your main panel. So you’d need a ground rod attached to that. The solar panels would be grounded at the same rod. At least that’s what NEC code says.

[@jfp2672]

great video

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Thank you.

[@bruinv3738]

Thanks for the video. I recently tried ferrules on 6awg/10awg wire and noticed they came loose on the dc breaker. Seemed fine while tightening, but would slip out during tug test. The plastic housing prevented the wire from being inserted fully into the breaker. Just something to watch out for. Why would eg4 choose chnt brand, are they even ul listed?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

That’s a fairly popular brand. Most rack batteries on the market use those also.

[@changingmatrix8687]

There are SO many people trying to hook up a 6000 or 12kpv eg4 inverter to a home panel...but it's hard to follow what should be done if you give comments for off grid and hooking to a main panel in the same video. Can you PLEASE do one comprehensive video of how to use a lock out bar to hook these to your main panel? Ray Liveless also did a video on using Polaris splitters or something to tie DIRECTLY into his main panel. Is this a clever bypass to using a critical load box? Or is it a dangerous practice? Thank you for all your videos!!!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I prefer using a critical loads panel. That way everything is automatic. Your grid will automatically kick in when the batteries are low. If you use a lockout breaker you’d have to manually switch between them, and be limited to the total output of the inverter/inverters.

[@changingmatrix8687]

@@GavinStoneDIY Understood. I dont have much room to work with be ause it's actually a small shed I converted into an extra living space...and the main panel already takes up too much space because it's a 200 amp panel. Would I need any other box besides the critical load box? Does conduit come into the critical load box from the main breaker then go out of the critical load box to the inverter? I see you have 2 other boxes so I didnt know what each did. I'm sorry if these are dumb questions. I'm having to learn everything by myself and after watching videos for 2 years and deciding what I want...I find things I still wasnt clear on :(

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@changingmatrix8687 it’s no problem. We all start somewhere. You’d have one conduit coming from the main to the inverter. And one going from inverter to the sub panel. Then you’d also need a conduit between the 2 panels to transfer all your critical loads over.

[@D1blitzball]

Were did you get the black wire protectors that the wire goes through in the box to protect the wire. Thanks

[@GavinStoneDIY]

They come with the conduit box. It actually come with two different types.

[@iowac]

I have seen there is a firmware update that allows you to use just 120v grid as back up or to charge batteries when no to little sun.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@iowac yes this is intended to charge from the generator port actually. You’ll only be able to power 120v Loads from L1 when you utilize this feature. So you won’t have power on L2. But for some people it may be helpful. I usually recommend the chargeveter. That avoids any of those issues.

[@iowac]

@ cool so chargeverter plugged into regular plug outlet from grid to battery, or plugged in off the eg4 6000xp? I was also wondering if one took say 2 thick extension cords one for grid l1 and one for grid l2 so then you have 240 but without running a new 240 breaker from main panel. I know folks are like why the hell would ya do that, grin at first i may not have easy way to run a new 240 breaker line from my main panel out to my power shed, but i have 2 gfci outdoor plugs i could run the cords to shed temporarily until i get the 240 ran. But in reality i would only need 1 regular line as for now i just going to run a freezer in the shed until i get my 20 other solar panels set up, then look to have a ductless mini put on shed, as i get more battery storage start to run house loads. Thanks for video and reply this is helping a lot as its similar to what i have. I just have earlier battery.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@ from grid to battery. The chargeveter is usually the best solution. You will need an adapter to change it into a 120v plug though. But it’s not overly complicated. You could run a 240v RV cord out to your shed. That’s still temporary though of course.

[@iowac]

@ cool appreciate it, i got a 48v battery charger that runs on normal 120v i was using that to charge up the 14.3kwh pro battery since i didnt have it connected to solar or any loads. I wanted to be sure i had way to charge it. I have had it for a year, started finishing out upstairs so daughter would have an apartment so my solar project been on back burner. Lol

[@daddio7249]

All the screws on the breakers have a torque spec, I got a digital screwdriver and 1/4 inch click torque wrench set. Nuts take less torque then you would think but screws much more. I check mine three or four times before I am satisfied.

[@bhbaker220]

Gavin, have you tested the grid bypass when you have grid power tied to ACin and when you have a low SOC on your battery and too little PV to power your loads? I’ve read where it can not charge the battery with PV while in grid bypass but there could be a firmware update later to address this. I also understand that it does check back in say 5 minutes to see if PV and/or battery is sufficient to power the loads and will switch back to inverter mode if that’s the case.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I haven’t tested that particular aspect so I’d have to check.

[@SolarinStarke-kt2lm]

What (trade size) knockouts are available on the sides of the battery box?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I believe they have 3/4-1-1.5-2” sized knockouts.

[@jkuoverland8507]

Wish the amphenol was a straight connector instead of 90 degree to the inverter, I just don’t like all the bending! Thanks for the videos!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I think all those connectors are 90’s. Yeah I don’t like bending wire around too much. But these are super flexible. So it’s pretty easy.

[@booterone1]

Good call on metal conduit for the pv wires. Do you happen to know if using two pv feeds, do they have to be identical watts and amperage, or can they be different?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

They are independent inputs. So they can be different wattage without any issues.

[@booterone1]

@@GavinStoneDIY I am a new subscriber and thanks for the quick reply. I will be watching future videos on the 6000XP

[@matadorbeagles1120]

What are the detailed mounting location ratings for these indoor batteries. Does inside in a pole barn in south Texas meet the requirements or is the outdoor rated battery required in this situation.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I haven’t studied into that section in the manual. Personally I think if the space isn’t conditioned, just to be cautious I would probably get the outdoor rated version. More for the humidity aspect than anything. But I may be wrong on that.

[@brothergeorge3412]

Thanks for the detailed walk through but I lost you at the Grid source. I needed to see how you are tied or wired to Grid. Can you show that connection on next follow-up vid .😅

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yeah the video was just getting so long I had to make cuts. It would be a double pole 40 or 50 amp breaker from the grid to the inverter. And the same 8 awg wire.

[@ennis437]

Wow I brought over all my grounds and Neutrals when I installed my sub panel should they have stayed in the main panel? My inverter was shipped WITHOUT the grounding screw so it is not bonded at the inverter.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Which inverter are you using? The 6000 XP has a bonding option in the menu. But typically you’d bond the sub panel yourself if you’re off grid. As far as the grounds and neutrals are concerned. It depends on the inverter. If you want to carry them over to the sub panel you can do that. But I’d recommend just bringing a large gauge neutral and ground over. It’s easier than feeding individual smaller gauge wires.

[@ennis437]

I have the sg6548 from sungold power they told me mine shipped without the ground neutral bond screw. I’m not off grid I just basically did what you did in the video but I moved all my circuits except my stove. The grid is basically my back up . Man, I wish I would’ve known all I needed to do to be compliant was to move the hot wires I may go back in revisited because it would be so much cleaner and just set it up how you’ve got it thanks for the video that was incredibly helpful.

[@jw3515]

Hello Gavin, my wife and I were rewatching your video again and we just noticed the part about metal conduit for pv. I had heard it before, but this time it actually registered. So my question is, do I need metal conduit for pv lines just inside the house or do I need to dig up all of the grey pipe I just buried, buy metal and re-bury or actually bury the correct stuff? My wife and I very much appreciate your channel and your willingness to help out those not as knowledgeable as yourself. Thank you.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The code for metal conduit is just for indoors. You did the right thing using electrical conduit in the ditch.

[@jw3515]

Thank you for your quick reply. Have a wonderful day.

[@justanotherdillhole7824]

Gavin great video so the battery cables and the communication cable don't come in the SKU BNDL-E0009-1 bundle? thanks

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yes. Those come with the pro batteries themselves anytime you order them. The wiring is included in the bundle.

[@justanotherdillhole7824]

@@GavinStoneDIY thank you

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@justanotherdillhole7824 sure thing. You’d need the 2/0 lugs though like i installed on the cables. I should probably add a link to those.

[@justanotherdillhole7824]

@@GavinStoneDIY sounds good

[@russellkamp8923]

Thank you

[@chewy1217]

so I've got my eg4 with one battery set up and it's working great. I live in western oregon and when winter hits we get lots of rain. I have one "EG4 Indoor WallMount 48v 280Ah" battery. So i'm considering buying an additional battery or buy an inverter generator for those dark days. We've had power outages that have lasted several days and don't think my one batt will sustain us. i;ve got 8 400W solar panels. not sure what to do. any advice would be most welcome. thank you in advance

[@GavinStoneDIY]

It usually depends on the region. It’s good to maintain that balance of solar and battery. So at full output the panels you have now would take around 5 hours to charge your pro battery from empty to full. That’s without using some of that solar to power loads. And people rarely get the full output from panels. So I think you likely do need more storage. But I would recommend adding some solar to your second input. Try to get near 6kw of solar if possible. Or max it out maybe with 8kw. You want your batteries to reach a full charge at least once every couple weeks if possible.

[@chewy1217]

@@GavinStoneDIY thanks you so much. This makes sense

[@InVinoVeritas.]

Great video!! Hope to get same inverter/battery combo soon. Do you think/have experience of this setup running whole house to include furnace/heat pump(s)/hot water heater/well pump? Thanks!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I have the 18kpv so that’s 2 of these units worth of output. And I run my whole house on it. So yes, you can feasibly do that with 2 units. But you still have to be mindful of your loads.

[@InVinoVeritas.]

@@GavinStoneDIY Getting 1 6000 ($ reasons) so I guess I can't run whole house systems but should be able to run critical loads, hopefully.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@InVinoVeritas. exactly. 1 unit can run your critical loads. Well,fridges and freezers,microwave, lights. You’d be surprised how much 6,000 watts will run. And it’s expandable as money allows. I’m installing this same system for my brother soon. And he may add another in the future when he has more money. But for the moment this is basically a backup generator. Except gas generators you want them running the least amount possible. And these units you always want them running and saving you money.

[@AngelaHutchison-ky8gh]

Thanks for the video! So you don’t need a neutral and a ground from the main panel to the critical loads panel at all? The line power coming from main to inverter covers that? Thanks again

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Assuming you are wiring it into a critical loads panel like I did, that is correct. Each individual circuit you are transferring from the main doesn’t need the ground and neutral. The main bypass wire will provide the proper gauge ground and neutral to supply the critical loads panel.

[@AngelaHutchison-ky8gh]

Yes sir. I’m wiring mine the same as yours. Excited to get started on this project. Folks like you putting these videos out make it more doable for the rest of us.

[@AngelaHutchison-ky8gh]

My inverter is in a different room than my panels. What do you think about running the line to inverter from main and load to sub panel through the same conduit? Is this a no no?

[@usafshorts]

Hello, thanks for the video, I wonder if you can recommend me a wire for the load 1 and 2 I mean gage , I don’t know anything about wiring and I don’t know which one to pick , thank you, affiliate links would be ok , thank you

[@GavinStoneDIY]

It depends on how much amperage you want for your bypass. But the easiest thing to do is get a 40 amp double pole breaker for your input and output wiring. A big box store like Lowe’s or Home Depot will be cheaper than any affiliate links I would add on the wiring. And you’ll ask for 8 awg thhn wire. 1-red 1-black 1-white 1-green.

[@mmenil1]

At 9:40 you made me laugh my *s* off. Great job.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Haha. Thanks!

[@jasonchristian6262]

How large is the solar array that you are using?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@jasonchristian6262 the array I was using for testing is 2,400 watts.

[@donbrenczeizinger6571]

Good video

[@julianjimenez4930]

Can you clarify where the grid cable you ran to the inverter came from? I see some prople tap the2 lines from y the grid.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The grid supply would come from the main panel. Either a 40 or 50 amp double pole breaker. And 8 awg thhn wire. 2 hots, a neutral and a ground.

[@julianjimenez4930]

Thank you

[@peterwaroblak166]

I'm just about ready to start hooking up wires, they gave me two battery cables with the battery, I'm wondering if it makes sense to use them both when connecting to the inverter?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

They send two sets because the battery can be used with multiple inverter types. The inverter only needs one set of battery cables. The maximum dc amperage the inverter will pull or push is less than 120 amps. One set of those wires can carry more than 250 amps.

[@miglalonde]

I have 3 6000xp and 3 powerpro coming in the couple days. How would you parallel the batteries and the inverters on the DC side

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I would add one power pro per inverter.

[@GioArt-TV]

I’m in California and have been thinking of powering my pool equipment with solar energy & batteries. From my main 200A panel, the pool equipment sub-panel is on 2X30A. So the setup you show here should be able to handle it and more? I have a second sub-panel with a 2X70A breaker at the main panel. It is for all the house lights with one fridge and freezer in the garage. Do I need a separate EG4 6000XP for the second sub-panel? The EG4 6000XP can only handle 50A so I don’t know if it can handle the second sub-panel (2X70A). Do I need to buy the EG4 18kpv? Thank you for any input.

[@GavinStoneDIY]

So the actual output of the 6000 xp is 25 amps. 2 of them would output 50 amps. The inverter can bypass 50 amps though. Which is why I used that breaker size. I would probably need drawing or diagram of your setup to determine what you’d need. But keep in mind the breakers that supply a panel don’t determine its actual usage. They just protect the wire that’s attached to the breaker. So your sub panel may not use anywhere near 70 amps. Your pool equipment would likely run off one 6000xp, but you have to look at the pump to see what it uses as far as amperage.

[@GioArt-TV]

@@GavinStoneDIYThank you for your time. I looked at the specs on the mfg. and it said “2300W, 208-230VAC, 20AMP”. I will get a meter to get more info. on the load. Thank you again.

[@RyanSloan-w8g]

I heard that you said something like since it was a 240 V you need a 240 V generator to power it versus grid my question is can you use a 115 generator to power the 6000 instead of grid it’s for a cabin off grid Or do I have to buy a new generator that runs 240 if that’s the case then I need to get the 3000 because I already have 110 generators

[@GavinStoneDIY]

You cannot use a 120v generator into the generator port no. But you can use the chargeveter at 120v. That’s honestly the best option anyway. The chargeveter can take care of your charging without needing to involve the inverter at all.

[@RyanSloan-w8g]

@@GavinStoneDIY okay thanks

[@danielyee6357]

@gavinstonediy - did it come w/ the 5/18 lugs? thanks!

[@GavinStoneDIY]

No you’d have to buy those separately. I left a link below in the description to the ones I used.

[@tiendo4070]

If I do the same and I tie this inverter to the grid, do I need to get permit and inspection?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

You’d have to check with your local building inspectors. This is similar to a UPS you could buy to back up your appliances. Except it in this case you would be wiring a new sub panel.

[@scottturner7907]

Does this produce its own power from solar? And use the battery on cloudy days or at night?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yes. If you check the link I have in the comments or description you can look a the manual. It has some schematics in there to show how the inverter operates. Hopefully that helps.

[@vickstarzz770]

What's your 100% soc voltage reading for the battery?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The voltage? That really depends. Usually around 55v.

[@jw3515]

If 2 eg4 6000xp were paralleled, would you use 1 50 amp breaker from each inverter?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yep. You would just add a breaker below what’s there. And L1 would be the top and L2 the bottom again.

[@jw3515]

Thank you. Have a great day.

[@GainSolarPower]

hey brother what size were those knockouts?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

On the XP? Starting from the left, 3/4- 1.5- 3x1”- 1.5. If I’m remembering correctly.

[@PICOBULLY]

So, if 6000xp is not connected to Grid, then the subpanel should be grounded to Rod? What if i'm using Nema 14-50p to plug into grid?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The plug carries its own ground from the grid. If you have access to the grid at all, then the ground should come from that.

[@Tiersmoke92555]

Question for my code needs, if my OG power system is in a dedicated structure and connected to my transfer switch like a portable generator will it still fall under governmental regulations?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I’m not totally positive. But I believe if it’s connected to a transfer switch or a lockout breaker you should be good to go. You do have to consider the PV though. If that’s on top of your house that would need inspections.

[@Tiersmoke92555]

@@GavinStoneDIY ground mount for the win. 😁

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@Tiersmoke92555 exactly!

[@bobcole3852]

Great explanation Gavin! What PV did you use for this? (How many panels and what size?)

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Thanks. I have 2,700 watts of panels hooked to it. 6-450 watt panels. So it could definitely have a lot more PV. I’m just using the rest for my solar for the 18kpv.

[@GioArt-TV]

@@GavinStoneDIYBrand, part # of panels? Link?

[@Buffalo-fo6pq]

You mentioned using a generator but I think I missed it. Is it on another video?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

When it comes to a generator, I usually recommend using a chargeveter. Eliminates any potential power distortion issues. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmPdmaOGarufbbMsi=NS9YlrzsIIEpvDsQ

[@CarstenDressler]

If your critical load panel is powered from the grid. And the grid is down, does the battery automatically take over?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yes that’s how it would work. And you have a third option of using a generator as well.

[@GeorgeKambone]

What is the price of the inverter plus battery sir?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

I have a link in the description and comments. I believe it’s right around $4,900 for both.

[@GeorgeKambone]

@@GavinStoneDIY thanks

[@lukimy2704]

Working on my system right now. I think I have it all figure it out except for ground and Neutral bonding from the main panel. My manin panel does not have a ground, how should I wire it then?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

How old is your home? They may have it grounded in a separate panel outside.

[@lukimy2704]

@@GavinStoneDIY the ground and neutral is bonded in the panel. Should I run separate ground from the outside to the 6000XP?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@lukimy2704 it’s supposed to be bonded at the main panel. From there you’d run a ground and neutral conductor separately to the inverter.

[@lukimy2704]

@@GavinStoneDIY I just don’t understand what is the point of running two separate wires if ground and neutral share the same bus bar?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@lukimy2704 they shouldn’t be on the same bar. They should have separate bars. Typically they will just be bonded with a green screw in the main panel. And that should be the only location there is a bond in the system. After that they remain separate. There is a lot of articles on the subject if you want to delve deeper. The neutral is technically a current carrying conductor. And the ground is not.

[@sergiopinto6356]

Does anyone know the max wire size for the grid and load connections?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The max you’ll fit in the terminals is 6 awg. 8 awg thhn will work fine though.

[@sergiopinto6356]

Thanks. ​@@GavinStoneDIY

[@PICOBULLY]

If I'm connecting my output to an independent load panel with main breaker switch, do I wire EG4 to the main 100 amp circuit breaker?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The purpose of breakers are to protect the wires you connected to them. So the wire has to be sized to the breaker, and vice versa. For a 100 amp breaker the wire would have to be 3 awg or larger. So in this case you’re better off adding another 40-50 amp breaker in the sub panel to wire into. And leave the 100 amp breaker empty.

[@PICOBULLY]

@GavinStoneDIY very much appreciated thank you, and keep up the great work. Your channel provides a plethora of info to the solar community 😀

[@jdlena]

How long will the battery run a 220 v ac unit 8000btu at night?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

It’s hard to say. That would depend on how much amperage the ac unit pulls, and how often it cycles.

[@russellkamp8923]

How to gauge what size all in one inverter I need?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Add up all your typical daily loads. Then go from there. A lot of people have some gas appliances. So they don’t need as much inverter to handle their daily usage.

[@russellkamp8923]

Thank you

[@kingjames1282]

Don’t you have to move the neutrals?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

The large neutral you bring over with the grid covers the neutrals.

[@TMCequipment]

Are the lugs supposed to be 5/16" (your link shows 3/8")?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Both will work. The inverter terminals are 5/16.

[@timidj3934]

Can i have the link for xfer switch? Thanks

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Which switch? The inverter has a built in transfer switch.

[@timidj3934]

@@GavinStoneDIYi want this system but i want auto switch with grid power when battery is low

[@GavinStoneDIY]

@@timidj3934 you could always invest in an separate transfer switch as well. But this system will switch automatically between grid and battery. It comes with an internal transfer switch in the inverter.

[@oneshot_onekill4618]

Can i run this inverter with a single EG4 5KW battery?

[@GavinStoneDIY]

It could technically run yes. But you wouldn’t get full capacity out of the inverter with just a 100ah battery. Plus it would be pulling pretty hard on the battery. That’s why it’s recommended to have at least 200ah worth of battery for this inverter.

[@oneshot_onekill4618]

@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you i appreciate the response.

[@dannydang74]

I saw a video somewhere that a EG4 Wallmount battery was used in conjunction with a Stack of EG4-LL batteries. I was connecting mine last night, and when i cnnected the Wallmount communication cable to my Stack of LL batteries the Circuit breaker on the Wall mount instantly tripped. I followed the manual using the (BATT-COMM) ports from Wallmount to (BATT-COMM) of LL battery, maybe i'm interpreting the manual incorrectly. Can anyone help point me in the right direction? TYSM

[@GavinStoneDIY]

Yeah I talked about this in one of my videos. The LL’s may need a firmware update first. Which version of LL’s do you have?