Installing Engineered Wood Stair Risers And Treads Part 1

Installing Engineered Wood Stair Risers And Treads Part 1. I explain step by step how to install stair treads and risers that are over a structural surface. Engineered flooring is only 1/2" thick and therefore is not structural. For this application I glued and nailed the wood down to the substrate.
Flooring is Bella Cera Amalfi Coast Hickory Capri www.bellacerafl...
Part 2 here! • Installing Engineered ...
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Borsellino Carpentry is a construction company located in Upstate New York. I specialize in small residential remodeling jobs. This channel is dedicated to teaching other contractors, carpenters, small business owners, DIYers, weekend warriors and anyone else who just wants to learn a little bit about home improvement. The full name of the company is actually Borsellino Carpentry & Home Repair, LLC but that is just too much of a mouthful! I also do tool reviews, business tips and other contractor related videos on this channel. In the wintertime I even do snow plowing videos. I try to mix it up and show all the parts of the contracting job, not just the glorious finished product. Please leave me a comment and let me know if there's any specific topics or jobs you'd like me to cover. Thanks for watching! 👋😃

[@blainerindlisbacher2240]

Thanks a lot. This was very helpful!

[@walterjoncas12]

Great looking stairs. I like the method you chose to use. As usual, great craftsmanship.

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

😊 thanks Walt!

[@sajadwoodwork]

Nice one sir please keep it up

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

Thank you, I will!

[@jorgelorenzotorres4740]

Good job is the better

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

👍😀

[@TreySayles]

Measure off the wall a couple inches where your jammed up in the corner. Then measure from the other wall to your mark, then add whatever you marked off originally. Then you don’t have to guess. 😮

[@annagustafson3577]

Oooooh! We need new stairs in my house! They are soooooo loud

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

Is there access under the stairs? If so there's some things you can do to help with that!

[@john-bm9kn]

Very impressive thank you for sharing. I didnt notice the expansion gap on the riser or tread. Why isnt it necessary? Is it because the thread area is small?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

yes exactly. The larger the area (like a floor) the expansion and contraction multiplies by each board. In a small area it is minimal. Also, if I gapped it, then you'd see a gap unless you added a molding to cover the gap. In some instances it just isn't always possible to leave a gap, nor is it necessary

[@jeffgregory2000]

Beautiful work and flooring. Can you recommend another manufacturer for the flooring that has the transitions to do stairs? The closest store is 100 miles away.

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

OOF 100 MILES?!! It really depends on what the store carries. Each flooring store has different brands so I shopped around to probably 5 or 6 stores until I found this one that I liked. I bought it for the look, not for the brand.

[@jeffgregory2000]

@@BorsellinoHomeServices Thanks! Yes I’ll try to obtain 1/2” as well, there appears to be a lot of 3/8” flooring out there.

[@mightyh9032]

Nice work, though 19:23 you noticed the stair nose end is not fully covered by the 1x baseboard. Not very noticeable but could have cut the edge in the stair nose. But everyone makes small mistakes on those projects.

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

yeah I suppose I could have spent some extra time and notched the nosing around the skirt board but in my mind it was creating the same gap that it would have all the way up the stairs and if the nosing ever needed to be replaced then just the nosing could come off. This is in my own house so I just went and looked at it and you have to look pretty hard on the right side to see a gap at all. On the left side it's so tight there's no gap at all.

[@drmechanicalchannel7641]

Does the flooring used as the stair tread require a space for expansion where it meets the riser? Please let me know. Thanks.

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

yes, and the tread goes in before the riser and you need a space to get the tread to go into the tongue and groove. General rule of thumb is always have an expansion gap but some a board this small I don't think it would expand very much at all.

[@lakemarine484]

So you had to remove the original "old" risers and treads and install "new" risers and treads from plywood to maintain the proper rise and run?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

Yes. I framed a complete new set of stairs because the old stairs were too steep. So i cut new stringers and installed them and then put plywood for risers and treads first because the flooring material is only 1/2" thick and needs to have full 3/4 subfloor underneath it. This made the stairs very very sturdy in the end

[@nancyvang9484]

Great video, one question is what kind of nail gun did you use and what size nail as well?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

The finish gun? I believe that is regular finish nails so 18g and probably 1.5". I'm just nailing into the subfloor to hold it in place while the glue sets up

[@J.D.416]

What material did you use for the risers? Thanks!

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

primed finger-joined pine :)

[@xavierpacheco7297]

Thanks for the video, nice job! One question do the nails show on the stairs?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

Yes they do. I use minwax stain crayon sticks to fill the nail holes. I bought a few different colors that are close to the floor color so I can use whichever one closes matches that part of the floor where the nail hole is

[@SherriRSM]

Hi Nick - My husband bought unprimed, 1/2” MDF to use for the risers. It looks nothing like what you used. What are your thoughts? -Sherri

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

well it depends. If you have a plywood subframe that you are attaching everything to, it should be fine. But if there's nothing solid behind the 1/2" mdf it won't handle kicks or the downward force. The way that I built everything out of plywood made it so I could install this 1/2" thick flooring, which same principle, you wouldn't be able to do on regular open framed stairs. Hope that helps clear it up

[@carlospalacio8625]

Ive always heard that flooring needs an expansion gap. Is this okay without one?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

wood expands widthwise, not lengthwise so no gap on the sides! :)

[@illegitimate0]

At 20:30, couldn't you have used a floor puller to pull them tight so you don't have gaps? At the very end, the triangular piece you couldn't pull like that, but at least it pulls some gaps. Or would uneven pulling (cause you cant pull near the angle) make it look worse?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

I did use the the blue flooring puller unless you mean something else??

[@miked8907]

Do you think my Ryobi 18g braid nailer would be ok for nailing a project like this or should I go buy a finishing nailer?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

for the treads if you are also gluing them I think it is fine. For the risers I think the thicker finish nails are better than brads though. If you used a little construction adhesive behind the risers then brads would be okay. I only used the nails to hold it while the glue dried

[@miked8907]

@@BorsellinoHomeServices Thanks! I went and got myself a finish nailer for this.

[@bashirpopal6259]

Question from a newbie here, Do you install the floor after stairs or before? The direction of my floor wood plunks is vertical where my wood floor tongue is not going into the nosing groves. Is it ok to just glue them right next to each other?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

I'm not sure I understand the question, let see if I answer right. I start at the bottom and work up. So the first floor has to be done first because the first riser lands on top of the flooring. Then at the top I think the nosing has to happen before the second story flooring goes in.

[@deerjerkydave]

Why use flooring adhesive vs construction adhesive? Does it matter?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

You probably could this just seems way easier and it is water cleanup for the tools. If you used construction adhesive would you use a trowel or just glob it on and go? I would think for something you're walking on daily you'd want an even glue surface underneath.

[@deerjerkydave]

@@BorsellinoHomeServices That makes sense to me. I've seen in other videos people running beads of construction adhesive. Wondering why.

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

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[@Discovery123.]

I saw people installed the riser before the tread, is that normal?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

yes on normal stairs there is no plywood framing behind it so the riser goes on first then the tread butts up to it and you nail through the back of the riser into the edge of the tread

[@Discovery123.]

@@BorsellinoHomeServices Thank you brother!

[@lisaj205]

Hi Sir! Thanks for the video! Looks great! I assume if we do hardwood stairs the process of gluing then nailing is similar? thanks!

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

Actually that depends. You can get solid oak treads and it you do you don't need the plywood yopu can do right on the stringers. Only thing is you want to attach the risers to the back of the treads from underneath

[@dennisdunleavy5690]

where did you get the stair nose to match the flooring?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

I got it from the same company that makes the flooring so it matches perfectly. They make other transitions too

[@dennisdunleavy5690]

@@BorsellinoHomeServices what company is that?

[@BorsellinoHomeServices]

here's a link to what we got in hickory capri www.bellacerafloors.com/hardwood-flooring/Amalfi-Coast-hardwood-flooring.aspx