How to Install an Engineered Hardwood Floating Floor with Finishing Tips

House flipping brothers Dave and Rich show you how to install an engineered hardwood floating floor with finishing tips. Some typical tools that help in installation are:
IRWIN Level, I-Beam, 72-Inch (1801096) , Blue
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DEWALT 20V MAX* XR Oscillating Tool Kit, 3-Speed (DCS356C1)
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DEWALT Oscillating Tool Blade, Titanium, Flush Cut (DWA4213)
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Amazon Basics Soft Grip Retractable Utility Knife with 3 Blades
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QuietWalk Plus QW100PLUS Underlayment for Hardwood, Laminate and Vinyl Plank Flooring with Moisture/Vapor Barrier and Sound Absorption (Nail, Glue & Float Applications), 3' x 33.4', Blue
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DEWALT Miter Saw, Single Bevel, Compound, 10-Inch, 15-Amp (DWS713)
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The Original Duck Tape Brand 394475 Duct Tape, 1-Pack 1.88 Inch x 60 Yard Silver
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IRWIN Hammer, Fiberglass, General Purpose, Claw, 16 oz. (1954889)
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DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Cross Line, Red Beam (DW088K)
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Dave and Rich are renovating a 6,000 square foot lake house. In the great room and kitchen there were two sunken levels. In order to make everything level, they needed to raise one area 6 inches and another area was raised 12 inches before hardwood floor installation.
In this video they show every step of how to install an engineered hardwood floor. This involves acclimating the boxes of engineered hardwood for at least three days so there won't be any humidity issues with the hardwood after installation. After that, a layer of padding is placed on the subfloor. This padding will reduce any noise from the floor and create a vapor barrier. The padding is joined together with duct tape. Next, the hardwood is sorted by size and selected from many boxes, to give it a random look. After that, the hardwood is clicked into place.
A time lapse video shows the entire process.
After the time lapse, Dave shows several tips for tricky installation around doorways.
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[@kikoman1647]

One of the best home improvement videos I have ever seen on youtube! No B.S. and straight to the pint. Job well done. Thanks!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Kikoman, Thanks so much for the kind words! And thx for watching!

[@angelaromano8099]

Hi! Thank you so much for this video. I installed flooring for the first time this weekend and it looks awesome and went smoothly thanks to watching this video a few times.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Angela, Awesome! Good job - glad you were bold enough to try it on your own. Thx for letting us know it worked out well for you. That is why we post our videos - you just saved a bunch of money doing that job AND now you’ll get tremendous satisfaction knowing you did it! Thx for watching and sharing your story.

[@mikematz3043]

So glad I finally found your video !! Best tips and tricks that helped me lay and finish my flooring !! All the little things that EVEY OTHER video is missing you covered. Awesome work and appreciate your attention to detail.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Mike, Thx much. Glad you had success! Thx for watching!

[@walterhickmanjr]

Here we go. Good explanation of the process and you covered the "why's" very well.

[@Housebarons]

Hi Walter, thanks for the comment and best of luck if you install your engineered hardwood floating floor!

[@henryjanneberg7857]

You are a damn good teacher. I'm a GC. I've done a lot of floors in a lot of different trades. I do about 3-5 floors a year. Watching your help, reminds me how to do things. Thank you very much!!!!! Any DIY should watch this and study it!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Henry, Thanks for the kind words! Much appreciated. Thx for watching!

[@rynecoker8289]

An excellent video. Thoroughly explained, and much appreciated. I understand why you are the Barons of homes. Cheers to your future and mine! Keep 'em coming!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Ryne, Thx for the kind words! Stay tuned!!

[@factorycut2072]

Thank you guys for taking the time to make this video helped a lot

[@Housebarons]

Hey Bam, Glad it was helpful! Thx for watching.

[@hansfilbert9147]

I like this very much, it gives us the confidence to do it ourselves.

[@Housebarons]

Hi Hans, wonderful! That is exactly why we post these videos. We think that people can save a huge amount of money by doing projects on their own, rather than hire them out. Good luck with your flooring project!

[@LLythyrcaru]

Many thanks, very helpful, best video I could find on KZbin without any nonsense.Once again many thanks

[@Housebarons]

Hey LLy…, Thank you and thx for watching!

[@michael.schuler]

Very complete tutorial. Sent to my apprentice. Thank you!

[@Housebarons]

Hi Michael, glad this video was helpful, thanks for your comments!

[@millenniumhardwoodflooring2361]

Insightful tips that you guys offered! Cheers.

[@Housebarons]

+Millennium Hardwood Flooring Hello Millennium Hardwood Flooring, thanks much for the comment, we appreciate it!

[@mattgrimmett6067]

Very well done. To the point. No gimmicks. Thanks

[@Housebarons]

Glad it was helpful!

[@schmoopstudios1670]

That was fantastic. Good tips for some of the corners. Thanks

[@Housebarons]

+Schmoop Studios Hi Schmoop Studios, we hope the tips will help with your projects. Thank you for the comment!

[@Mindurown8]

You did a great job explaining this man. Good job

[@Housebarons]

Hey Kevin, I appreciate that! Thx for watching!

[@FernwehChronicles]

Super helpful, thanks!

[@Housebarons]

Hi Fernweh Family, good luck if you decide to install your own engineered hardwood floating floor and thanks for the comment!

[@shaynesabala]

Thanks for the great video, I will make my purchase on the flooring tomorrow and start the install next weekend.

[@Housebarons]

Hi Shayne, that's awesome! Good luck with your floor installation!

[@shaynesabala]

Thank you. I have a question. I am concerned about water spills. What keeps the water from soaking through and creating mildew below.? I bought a good mat but I don't feel like that will be adequate. Is it recommended to glue the wood together to keep sheepish form happening?

[@guillermosantamaria6278]

Extreme House Flipping

[@Housebarons]

Hi shayne, I have never heard of such a seepage issue under normal usage with engineered hardwood. And none of the manufacturer instructions we've seen say to glue for the reason you stated. Agreed, water is always a concern with flooring. Laminate floors can absorb water and delaminate. Engineered Hardwood by design is more durable than laminate. The seems are very tight. So no need to glue each board. We both have dogs and spilled water dishes are common. Neither of us have had the least problem. Occasional spills are not an issue. However, if water is left on a floor for a length of time, most floors could be damaged. The key is just exercising a little care and clean up spills as they happen. Thx for the question.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Shayne, Quick update, we were curious so we ran an experiment on some floating floor scraps. Not a drop of seepage after 4 hrs of standing water on a seam! Water should not be a worry under normal conditions. We hope to post the video tomorrow of the experiment . Hope this helps.

[@meibesmurfn3168]

Great video! Very well explained

[@Housebarons]

Hey Isaac, Thx for watching!

[@starbase606]

Very helpful, thanks.

[@Housebarons]

Hi Eric, thanks for the comment and good luck if you install your own hardwood floating floor!

[@ItachiUchiha-lr3yr]

I know this was 4 years ago but those jeans are mid 90's. Great video thanks, just about to float my own wooden floor so that I can take it up again if I ever need to access the pipes.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Itachi, Thx for watching!

[@xeniaglez-rodiles3370]

Thank you very much

[@Housebarons]

Hi Xenia, thanks for viewing and we hope this video helps with your flooring projects!

[@rayjackson6808]

very well explained. I'm going to try this, wish me luck.

[@Housebarons]

+ray jackson Hi Ray, that's exactly why we make these videos, to hopefully inspire others to take on projects themselves. Best of luck with your flooring!!!

[@theydontlikeitupem.4725]

How did it go?

[@chrisynevers3321]

ray jackson 7

[@addisonfink7253]

Love the color, what kind of wood and color was it?

[@robl496]

Impressive. THANk YOU I have a question. How do I separate the hardwood flooring from either the hallway or a master bathroom in case I’m installing it in bedrooms

[@Housebarons]

Hey Rob, You can buy or make ( m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHO6qJ2qn6aYmqs ) a transition strip. They can bridge the gap between hardwood and : carpet, tile or vinyl. The profile of the transition would vary depending on the height of the flooring. Hope that helps! Thx for the question.

[@kathrynliu74]

Wow you guys work fast!!!

[@Housebarons]

Hi Kathryn, LOL! Usually people say we are working slowly, especially on our latest renovation, hoorah for time lapse! Thanks for commenting!

[@michaelmace924]

Extreme House Flipping I was gonna say the same thing. Thank god for time lapse and editing.

[@Housebarons]

+Michael Mace Hi Michael, so true!

[@scottblair1919]

Hello, great video! I have an alcove just like you have in this video at the beginning. You skipped that part, laid down the flooring in furthest left corner and then you came back to it later. How did you do that? Thanks!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Scott, We laid down wood left to right starting at the back of the room and backed up with each successive row. The recessed areas are tackled by turning around and kneeling on the finished floor and snapped to floor sections in to the recessed areas. The only thing that changes is your orientation to the floor. Hope that helps. thx for watching !

[@robcory3744]

Thanks!

[@Housebarons]

Hi Rob, we recently started a FaceBook page called HouseBarons. If you install your own floating floor and you send us before and after pictures, we will post them on our page. Thanks and good luck with your project!

[@robcory3744]

Extreme House Flipping I am going to be putting new flooring in my bedroom. It will be a winter project. Will certainly consider sending ‘before and after’ pictures. Your video has shown me that I am quite capable of putting down new floor. I will certainly use your video as reference, when I am in the midst of the work this winter. Thanks, Rob

[@everforexcanada5663]

great vid! do you need a hammer to punch planks tight together? thanks!

[@Housebarons]

Hi Everforex Canada, no, with the floating floor you just click lock the planks together, no hammer needed! Good luck if you take on this project!

[@dblood8529]

Wow great video. I would like to lay some engendered hard wood floors in my place on a slab. I may be wrong but did you lay the floor over some tile in the bathroom? In my house we have tile in the kitchen, is there a way to transition the floors over the the tile without it being to being too uneven of a drop or do I have to remove the tile?

[@Housebarons]

+Dblood85 Hi Dblood85, it is critical that your floor surfaces are level before you put down engineered hardwood. You have two options. You can remove your tile and backer board or whatever is under the tile to get down to the origional subfloor level. This requires renting a demo hammer and involves a pretty good effort. At this point the gap under your doors might be too big and may need to be corrected. Your other option is to add plywood or osb to raise the subfloor surrounding the tile up to the tiled area level. This option will probably require trimming the bottom of all doors on that level, plus removing and reinstalling the molding. We did a video where we tore up tile in a kitchen. You can watch it by searching on KZbin for Golf Course House Flip 3. We also did a KZbin video called How to Use a Demo Hammer. Good luck with your project!

[@Housebarons]

Also, don't lay flooring on concrete with a moisture issue because it will breed mold. The simple test to see if you have moisture in your concrete slab would be to get a 24x24 inch sheet of clear plastic and tape all edges completely with duct tape to the floor. Wait 48 hours. If you have a moisture issue, water droplets will bead up on the plastic or the color of the concrete will be darker when you peel up the plastic, indicating moisture. Or you can get a meter to read the floors moisture content. If you have a moisture issue in your concrete you will need to call a concrete expert for a remedy, like installing a sump pump

[@dblood8529]

Extreme House Flipping awesome. Thanks for the great info! I pray to God that I don't have any moister issues!!

[@sergeradlein2260]

I want to install 5mm birch plywood on my ceiling should I use a staple gun a finish nail gun and what size because I'm going through the sheet rock to the wood behind please help

[@Housebarons]

Hey Serge, When mounting that thin material, you want to be sure to nail into the ceiling joists behind the drywall / sheetrock. Typically they are running parallel every 16 inches apart. As for the nail length - you need to go thru the wood (5mm) and the drywall (1/2 or 5/8). So, for example - if the total material thickness is 3/4 of an inch, then use 1.5 inch nail so that about half the length of the nail is in the joist. Some things to consider. Finish nails don't have much of a head thickness and thus don't have tremendous holding power. Though 5mm is not heavy, you may still want a more typical nail like a ring shank nail. If you are set on using a finish nail, then maybe use construction adhesive on the back of the 5mm board for extra hold ( if you have a smooth ceiling) especially if this is meant for the long term. Hope this helps. Thx for the question!

[@russellbrown3272]

I'd love to know what exact floor this was. We are picking ours out now and love the way this one looks.

[@Housebarons]

Hi Russell, this floor was from Lowes. The manufacturer is Natural Floors, engineered hardwood flooring. Lowe's item 34911, 4.72 inch. Model 70ACLHS00. Good luck with your flooring project!

[@russellbrown3272]

@@Housebarons Thank you!

[@jacksonthompson2564]

Great video, thanks for posting. I'm just confused how the float method does not lead to shifting. Without gluing the planks to the subfloor or gluing the planks together how do the planks not shift about when a 350 lb man strike his heel dead center between 2 planks? Are the tongue and grooves that perfectly cut?

[@Housebarons]

+John Turman Hi John, yes the tongue and grooves are very tight and basically lock together. So far none have ever separated on us. A very tiny wood sliver will prevent them from locking, which shows how tightly they lock. The floor will contract and expand due to humidity and temperature, so a quarter inch gap needs to be on all sides, which gets covered by molding. Thanks for the question.

[@joannesavino2272]

Nice video! I am having a wood laminate floor installed and was told I needed transition strips breaking up my floors which I am not happy about. I was wondering why you didn't put any. It looks like you had at least a 30 ft run somewhere in that room. Would I be fine by leaving the 1/4 around the room like you did instead of those ugly strips in the middle of my floors?

[@joshkertcher]

Russel I’m about to start doing my living room, but was curious if you can engineer hardwood steps? I’m sure you wouldn’t want them to slide so maybe liquid nails them to the stair pad without underpayment? Thanks just curious

[@Housebarons]

Hey Josh, We never have done it. But I have seen it done. Yes. It would need a way to be held in place. Let us know how it works! Thx for watching

[@Lenser]

Which exact tape did you use to connect the underlayment?

[@Housebarons]

Hi Lenser, we just use ordinary duct tape, nothing special, just something to hold the rows of underlayment together. Good luck with your flooring job!

[@susanjanke7094]

Hi, we appreciate your video, very informative. We are going to install engineered wood flooring in a double wide manufactured home and would like to know if you have any tips especially regarding laying across the marriage line.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Susan Janke I’m not familiar with how pronounced that marriage line is, but as in any place you lay an engineered hardwood floor, a flat surface is imperative to a natural feel. If that connection of sides is higher than the rest of the floor, then raising the rest of the floor to that level - that could be a challenge. If it’s a gap, the perpendicular placement of the boards will span it. The beauty of an engineered floor is that it floats. Sounds like an advantage in your setup. What is the make up of that marriage line ? Higher or lower than the existing floor? Thx for the question!

[@susanjanke7094]

Extreme House Flipping Thanks for your response. Both sides of the floor are pretty level. I think we will be ok. I do have another question though. What type of underlayment would you recommend we use. Like I said, it's a double wide manufactured home with a wooden subfloor. We are in Louisiana, so we have a humid climate. We were told to use a foam underlayment with a foil. It's for sound and also a moisture barrier. I also read though that it might not be good because of the humidity. Your input would be appreciated.

[@utmc6788]

can i uae a grinder instead of a dremmel to cut the bottom door jams

[@Housebarons]

+utmc6788 Hi utmc6788, a grinder might burn the wood rather than cut it. Another option would be to use a hand saw.

[@harktischris]

For such a locking mechanism, do you need to worry about the planks moving around *while* you're installing them? I've been looking at other videos that involve nails or glue, so it's a little strange to look at a hardwood floor just being "placed." Otherwise great video, especially the tricky stuff at the end.

[@Housebarons]

+Chris Lee-Egan Hi Chris, the first couple of rows could move if the installer knocked into them, but it would be easy to put them back in place. There is a lot of friction between the boards and the pad. A single box of flooring is heavy. Once several rows are laid down, the floor will be very secure. Thanks for the question!

[@mikem7135]

Great video. I'm looking to install this type of flooring over tile, but was thinking about glueing it. It's a very long area (about 1/3 longer than you have in the video). I have this type of flooring in another area of the house and it's lifted about 1/2 inch in some places and I'd like to avoid this with the new installation. Just not sure how or if glueing over tile is possible. Cheers.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Mike M, Some engineered may be made for glue. But the floor we used was designed to be floating. Typically, I’ve seen where distances over 35-45 feet ( varies with manufacturer ) requires a break in the floor / transition strip. To combat that you can change the board direction to avoid really long runs. Also look into limiting big temp / humidity changes from season to season. Less temp / humidity changes, the less expansion contraction. Also, make sure your floor sits 3-4 days at room temp to acclimate it. Thx for watching!

[@mikem7135]

@@Housebarons Great, thanks for the reply.

[@jasongerhard5150]

Great video, very informative but I have a question. The last part where you were cutting around the two door jams, why didn't you leave an expansion gap? I'm not talking about under the door frame, I'm talking about the other opening where you cut out the sheet rock, which I would assume means you butted it right up to the wall framing? Doesn't it still need an expansion area there?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Jason, Where the Sheetrock overhangs the flooring, the sheetrock is 1/2 inch thick. We only need a 1/4 expansion gap, so all should be good - if I understand your question correctly. If not, let me know the time stamp of the portion of the video you were referencing and I’ll see if I understand your question better. Thx for the question and thx for watching!

[@neillynnez342]

Is 3/8 or 1/2 In. Too much??

[@lanceculnane]

This guy seems really cool- idk why- just does

[@omegachar4754]

Can you lay this across rooms without transition strips at the doors? The longest length would be about 45ft with the grain and 45ft across the grain.

[@Housebarons]

Hey OmegaChar, Big floor! Every set of flooring has a limit. I’ve seen limits of 35 and 40 feet with the grain. Your flooring boxes should clearly define the limits. If not, call the manufacturer. The last thing you want is the floor buckling. Rather be safe than sorry. Thx for watching!

[@franciscoparada3332]

So do you put quarter round around the door jams?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Francisco, No we do not. Typically, doing so would interfere with your door opening and closing. Our quarter round ends at the door jam with a 22.5 degree cut. Thx for the question.

[@gasousman]

Can I install a floating floor before installing kitchen cabinets? Then, cut the flooring at the cabinet line, remove the cut flooring, and finally lay the cabinets on the sub-floor?

[@Housebarons]

Seems plausible but since the flooring is not usually inexpensive, you could accomplish the same thing by taping a cabinet outline on the subfloor and then lay the floor everywhere except for the taped off area. The kitchen base cabinets are typically a standard depth - but to be sure, just measure first to be sure. You should finish the floor with quarter round so your tape outline has a quarter of an inch plus or minus of wiggle room - meaning your outline doesn’t have to be dead perfect. Have fun!!

[@100LaVida]

Did you use shims or spacers to allow the wood to expand with time? How do you put the molding on top of the spacers ? Can you make a video on that? My next project.

[@Housebarons]

Hey S..., The spacers are just placed on your first row next to the wall, and then at each side / the beginning of each row and at the end. As you lay a few rows, those spacers are removed to be used for the next rows you want the floor to have a gap all around the perimeter w/ NO spacers so it has room to expand. The trim molding is placed OVER but not in the gap. The trim covers the gap and hides it, but does not go in the gap - otherwise the floor could not expand if needed. We will have to include that in next flooring video - but that probably won’t be till later in the year. Thx fir watching!

[@relanaallen5513]

Can you send this floor. How durable is it. How many years is it designed to last.

[@ronb6333]

What product floor did you use?

[@bg4229]

Nice floor! I have installed many, many laminate and tile floors but not click-locking engineered wood. Will be doing so in two weeks. Here is the question: Is it safe to glue the planks together (not to the subfloor; just plank tongue into adjacent plank groove)? I have not been able to get a clear answer from anyone, including the very reputable manufacturer. The purpose of gluing the planks of the floating floor together is the same as when done to laminate click flooring: to dramatically improve the waterproofing. Again, not gluing to subfloor; entire floor remains unattached from the subfloor and underlayment. There seems to be two schools of thought on this subject. Some have said it will inhibit the natural contraction and expansion since it is a partially real wood product; if each plank is not allowed to do so independently of the adjacent plank, the seams will buckle; moreover, the glue could cause expansion and then cupping. Conversely, others have said it will continue to expand and contract as a unit, just like a laminate floor, if the perimeter is left with the necessary gap; therefore, no buckling of seams should be an issue. Additionally, as the edges of the wood are finished and not raw, if the glue is applied only into the joint, it seems that the 'moisture' of the glue would not compromise the wood or plank, itself. I lean to the latter. However, in order to avoid a costly $7k mistake, hoping for clarification. Any thoughts or insight you (or anyone) may have on the matter would be greatly appreciated. In advance, thank you for your time!

[@Housebarons]

Hey BG, Great question. As a matter of fact, we had wondered about how water proof the click lock floors ( engineered hardwood) are as well. So we did an experiment. ( you can see the video of the experiment if you search our channel for : Do floating floor seams leak. ) The short of it is - we found zero leakage with standing water on the seam for 24hrs. As you lay the floor, you’ll see that when two pieces of floor are clicked in place, they don’t slide because of such a tight fit. That being the case, I’d be expecting a huge glue mess as the tight fit squeezes the glue out from the tight fit! Another reason I wouldn’t glue it is the reality that such an action is gonna seriously increase the time you’ll spend laying the floor by adding glue to each seam and cleaning up the glue that seeps out. Another reason not to glue - none of the manufactures we’ve used suggest it. They’ve ‘engineered’ the fit. I’m personally confident ( from experience ) that water standing on top of the floors in my house or our projects won’t harm the floor. One more thought - if water contacts the floor from underneath - that’s a big problem and a glued seam won’t help. Then your only option is to choose luxury vinyl plank which is water proof throughout its construction. So - if it were me, I’d lay the floor w/o adding glue in total confidence. They are amazing floors. I hope you enjoy your new floor for years!! Thx again for the question

[@hike2024]

Thanks for your video. Can this type of flooring go over concrete floors as well? Thanks

[@Housebarons]

Hey Get, Yes - so long as it is dry. Do a moisture test to see - tape piece of plastic on all sides, peal up after 24 hrs and see if moisture is present. Check with manufacturer to see if the flooring requires a poly barrier. Thx for watching!

[@hike2024]

@@Housebarons Awesome thanks much for the info.

[@PBS-nm1uu]

what was the sizes of the different pieces of wood ?

[@Housebarons]

+PBS #007 Hi PBS #007, Each flooring manufacturer has their own specifications. The flooring in this video had nine lengths ranging from one foot to three feet. Thanks for the question.

[@hello.world_5]

It's good if we install Normal wood later we can paint wood colour on that!?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Hello World, The flooring we use in the video is a material that is a thin (9-12mm) layer of hardwood over a compressed wood base. It’s very durable and the finish comes from the factory very glossy. These floors should last 10-50 years depending on how well they are cared for. Thx for the question!

[@charwest9449]

Once you have the wood organized by size, when do you pick each size?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Char, you pick any size you want just making sure the seams of the row above and row below don't line up. We made sure the seams were no closer than 8 inches or so. We tried to make it look random even though it was thought out. Thx for watching!

[@teress2959]

Would it be safe to lay this hardwood floating floor directly over asbestos tiles? Are there any additional steps for laying floating flooring over asbestos tiles? Also if you remember the make and color of the flooring you used please post. Thanks for the video!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Teresa, I’m VERY cautious about messing with asbestos of any kind. I understand that disturbing asbestos is when you have an issue. So we NEVER cut, break, or remove asbestos tile. The beauty of an engineered hardwood floor is that you lay it down over an overlayment. No need to disturb the flooring underneath for any reason. You could always contact the manufacturer to be sure. We bought the floor from Lowes but don’t have any boxes laying around still. We’ll dig thru notes and try to find the manufacturer and post it later this evening. Thanks for the question!

[@Housebarons]

Hi Teress, we found the info regarding the hardwood floor. We bought it from Lowes, so just go to lowes.com and input their Item # 349411. This is Natural Floors locking handscraped acacia, good luck with your flooring!

[@glenthompson7814]

Would you have any concern about using engineered hardwood over particle "sawdust" board? We pulled up carpet a house built in the early 70's and most of the home has particle board....Particle board is in good shape. Also, what exact flooring product did you use here? thanks....great videos by the way.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Glen, Glad you like the videos and thx for the question. It is an important one and not an in common concern. That particle "sawdust" board is no good IF you want nail or glue to it. However, if you lay a floating engineered floor as we did in the video, you should be fine so long as your "sawdust " floor is in tact. If any places are swollen and/or crumbling from water damage, those should be cut out and replaced with plywood. But, that can by a can of worms if the crumbling doesn't end. If your floor has survived 40 + years without water damage, then you should do fine. The beauty of the floating floor is that tolerates what's underneath well. Don't forget a good pad/underpayment. As for the floor, we are pretty sure it is: Natural Floors by USFloors 4.72-in Natural Acacia Engineered Hardwood Flooring (18.76-sq ft) Item # 349411 Model # 70ACLHS00 From LOWES. They had a couple "acacia" floors. The one we chose had a bit more red hue to it and was hand-scraped. This was the first time we used this floor, but we both thought it went down well and really looks great. Thx again!

[@glenthompson7814]

Thanks a bunch, and yes, floating is what I was asking about. We had planned on pre-finished hardwood until I pulled back the carpet and saw all the particle board. That is when I started looking into a floating engineered hardwood and found you guys. You have some great information in your other videos too.

[@Housebarons]

+Glen Thompson Hi Glen, thanks much, good luck with your flooring project!

[@pacsoulpavon9649]

Great video ! Will be doing my first installation next week . I live in Colorado , would 3 days be enough to climate?

[@Housebarons]

Hey pacsoul, Thx! Typically, 48-72hrs is needed. But I would check with the manufacturer - whatever they say would be the best answer. I would check on the box or call the company directly to be safe. I hope your install goes well!! Thx for watching.

[@pacsoulpavon9649]

@@Housebarons thank you so much for this information. I will get back to you next week when the installation is done

[@Housebarons]

Hey pacsoul, Terrific. We”ll look forward to it!

[@rosswelch3947]

Out of curiosity, why did you undercut the drywall close to the door instead of just use spacers? Why should the floor be "spaced" away from the wall in some areas, and "undercut" in others?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Ross Welch , Typically an engineered hardwood floor needs to be spaced from the walls to allow for expansion. That gap is covered by molding and quarter-round. When it comes to the door you mentioned, the floor undercut the drywall because we still need a gap, but this doorway was to consist of only drywall - no molding. Without molding to cover the gap, we needed to hide the gap under the wall. Knowing what will hide the required gap in every area of the room will determine undercutting vs. molding to hide that gap. Thx for the question!

[@rosswelch3947]

Thanks for explaining!

[@richarda.valdes1197]

How large can a piece of furniture be that will sit on top of the "Floating Floor" before it affects the floors ability to move? My custom night tables are 24" X 18 " and sit directly on the floor, no type of legs to keep the tables off the flooring. Will this affect the floors ability to float?

[@GillieFTH]

floating just means its not nailed or glued down. so no you'll be fine.

[@phlo2009]

@@GillieFTH Thanks for the great video. Are there any criteria on the subfloor for putting on the floating floor. My subfloor is made of OSB (Oriented Strand Board) instead of concrete. Will there be a problem with a floating floor on top?

[@NeoGospelQueen]

Hi…Can u put down snap lock hardwood on top of a floating laminate floor. What if the floor under the laminate is not totally level. Someone told me it would actually help

[@Housebarons]

Hey Karen, I don’t think I would do that even if I could. Adding multiple layers of flooring might make it too high for doors to open correctly. And if the lower floor isn’t stabile, then your top floor will be even more off. Laminate ( floating floor) comes up real easy. As for “ not level “ , we have a couple videos that might give you some ideas: 1) how to level a sagging floor w/o floor leveler kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZipYmuqa5V3g6s 2) how to use floor leveler…. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXO3gWepiN2Fec0 Hope that helps! Thx for watching!

[@johnbarabasch5884]

We have had great luck w a little wd40 on the seems to get the boards to slide easier! Just a little tip! 👍🏼

[@ed0985587]

If you weren't going over preexisting tile, I assume you would have nailed this down to the subfloor right (or glue in the case of laying on concrete slab)?

[@Housebarons]

Hi Ed, The beauty of a floating floor is that is exactly what it is, floating! This means no glue, screws, or nails are used. The floor actually floats. We leave a quarter inch gap along every wall, which gets covered by molding and quarter round. This enables the floor to contract and expand. Thanks for the question!

[@ed0985587]

Extreme House Flipping So to clarify, you would have done it as floating regardless of whether you were simply going over wood sub floor, tile, etc? Are there cons to not nailing/gluing down?

[@Housebarons]

Hi Ed, yes, we will put a floating floor over any stable surface. Sometimes you have to pour floor leveler on uneven surfaces. If the previous floor is torn up, you would need to demo it. The only con with these floors is that they click together and sometimes the tabs can get damaged, but not too often. We have installed floating floors for over 6 years and we haven't had any problems with them so far. Good luck!

[@ed0985587]

Extreme House Flipping Thank you for the replies!

[@LubaLuba1]

Have any tips on ripping planks

[@Housebarons]

Hey Luba, Table saw?? Thx for watching!

[@Trezore69]

When you start on one wall with the spacer... And get to the opposite wall with door jams... Similar to your bathroom doorway I suppose... Is shaving the tongue absolutely necessary and using glue to hold?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Trezore1969, You only have to shave down the tongue to get the other piece to slide UNDER the door jamb. Typically, when locked and flat on floor, those two pieces will not slide to past each other when trying to get a better fit. The tongue acts as a lock. By shaving the tongue down, you are taking away the locking mechanism and allowing pieces to slide even when laid flat. When in their final position - under a door jamb - the glue acts as a lock to keep them from separating after installation. You don’t need to shave the tongue if you can install them under the jamb in the normal way of installing the floor. We only shaved off the tongue because there was no other way we could get the flooring to slide, side by side, under the jamb.

[@Trezore69]

@@Housebarons thanks... Guess I'll be picking up some glue same time as the rest of the things I'll need. I'm noticing various types of liners in videos I've watched and Home Depot... Existing floor looks like original 1 1/2" width hardwood, which requires more work to restore than to cover. Which was why laminate was laid over it. So I'll be laying hardwood engineered click over it like the laminate flooring was that I removed. Now, regarding that liner... I seen Cork, thin foam with plastic seran wrap like layer, (vapor barrier?), Foam beads, and a Pergo underlayment with vapor barrier. My new house is 1920, living room 25x11... Trying to figure what best underlying to use. Cork with separate vapor barrier, the Pergo, or something else with the engineered click hardwood on top of hardwood floors... Oh and I have lots of cats!!! 😂

[@Housebarons]

Hey Trezore, We’ve always used “Quietwalk” - many places sell it. Probably a mid-range product. Like a felt plus vapor barrier in one. Been happy with it. You can certainly spend more, all depends on your budget.

[@michaelyip324]

Fantastic. Can you explain a bit more about all the tools you need and how to cut for width. I am a complete beginner, sorry if this seems obvious. It looks like you only need a multipurpose oscillating cutter

[@Housebarons]

Hey Michael, We used a “chop saw” for most cut. It’s 100x faster and easier than oscillating tool. Worth every penny! Good question. Thx for asking!

[@michaelyip324]

@@Housebarons Do you have chop saw video? Is a Miter saw a type of chop saw? is a chop saw a beginner level tool? Do I need a sanding tool to finish the sawing job?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Michael, Sorry. We don’t have a chop saw video - great idea though. Thanks. Yes. A chop saw could be called a mitre saw. Beginners can use these saws. Just follow the directions faithfully. You will not need to sand anything. If you are laying the floor starting at the left and working toward the right, you only cut the last board in that row and the cut edge will be unseen under the baseboard molding and 1/4 round. Best thing to do is watch a bunch of videos to get fully familiar. Or maybe ask a friends help if you know someone who has done it before. It is a very repetitive job. So once you do a couple rows, that’s about it. Sorry for the delay. I didn’t see the comment. If you have any other questions, just post a brand new comment - that way it will pop up in my feed. Hope it goes well!

[@murpbrurbenson2103]

@9:15 what about room for expansion?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Murp, Not sure if you meant expansion side to side? But the wood is under the jamb but not pinned in there. Because there was no molding on the jamb, it has to be tucked under the jamb edge to hide the gap. But a gap still exists under the jamb. Anywhere else, the molding rests on / over the floor. That hall is about 4 feet wide so expansion side to side should be nominal. The expansion can show up when you have very wide or very long (25-40ft) worth of floor. Typically the manufacturer will provide a working limit on that number. Hope this helps

[@vinceabbott1271]

Do you have too use underpayment pad ?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Vince, Yes. The blue pad in the video is called Quietwalk. Thx for watching!

[@Housebarons]

The reason it is necessary is it helps the floor move ( ever so slightly ) as a whole as it expands and contracts through seasons.

[@tedmason6757]

Dremel . . or is it an oscillating multi tool?

[@Housebarons]

Hi Ted, oscillating multi tool is correct. We used to refer to that tool as the Dremel, until we purchased our 2 Dewalt oscillating multi tools. Now we just call them "multi tools". Whatever you want to call them, they are absolutely awesome for DIYers because they have so many attachments that do an amazing variety of tasks. Thanks for your question!

[@DeskOfDean]

Did you use glue?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Deanslist, No glue. It is a floating floor. Thx for watching!

[@MikeJones__Who]

No nails or glue used for this job?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Absolute, You are absolutely correct. No nails. No glue. The boards lock together by design. Called a floating floor. Can expand or contract very slightly with temp. But it’s own weight keeps it in place. Really a technological leap! Thx for the question.

[@MikeJones__Who]

@@Housebarons Thanks for the clarification!! I'm looking at installing a floor like this and was wondering how it stayed in place. Looks great! Awesome video!

[@daveforgot127]

What do you watch the video and listen

[@ebwholesaler]

- " So... No need to use my axe ?... " (Joe 'roughy' Lumberjack) 🤨

[@Housebarons]

Hey Denis, No need. Save that for another day.! They are so heavy anyway 😃Thx for watching!

[@ItachiUchiha-lr3yr]

People in the comments For F sake! It's engineered wood! The whole point of engineered wood is that it doesn't warp or expand so you Don't need to worry about expansion gaps. You should still have a gap to help you shift & square stuff up once its already down but it's not for expansion of wood.

[@courtneychappell8801]

Trump 20 20 🇺🇸🦅🇺🇸🦅🇺🇸

[@mohergenrader2113]

Hahaha

[@pakobaksone3671]

Hahahaha... So dumb, too much explainati😅n about how is the materal but no much technic how 2 start and finish and how 2 secure the panels on the floor. Just b so dumb...

[@Housebarons]

Glad you enjoyed it so much!