Installing Lutron Radio RA2 Outlets, Switches, and Motion Sensors

My goal has always been to simplify so you know what to buy and why. This was a project to go in tandem with the rest of the lighting upgrades in the house. After the DMF lighting was installed and Cree Lights in the garage, the Radio RA2 system made a lot of sense to try out. I prefer this over the Caseta home stuff, but I believe that all of the Lutron stuff is excellent in terms of functionality. More to come on this as we dive deeper to build it out on the site for you to buy this stuff without all the overcomplication involved with lighting. I'm falling on the sword here by spending way too much money to hopefully teach you how to buy it.
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[@787RAD]

Hey Matt we are a lutron direct dealer and you are using whats called a Lutron Radio Ra2 Select System, its better then caseta because there are more devices supported(relays and heavy duty switchs). The system after you Ra2 Select is called Radio Ra2/ Ra3 these systems you need a dealer with software to actually setup you house for you and you would have to call them out to do big changes like new plugs/ switches or motion sensors. The last one is called Homeworks and its just a super version of all of them. Lutron does not sell direct to consumers so thats why its hard to find the Ra2/ ra3 switches. Honestly I hate that consumers cant just by this stuff because it works great and everybody deserves this. The PC software for Ra2/Ra3 and Homeworks is very powerful and could probably fix your little quirks in the kids room with the motion sensors.

[@t3dewys]

I only have 5 Lutron devices, But they are simple to set up and always work. I absolutely love them!!

[@baja1980s]

It’s rough to see the island get a white outlet that sticks out like a sore thumb when Lutron offers dark grey, grey outlets

[@NaturallyaspiratedJJM]

This is getting good, been waiting for this.

[@brando123b]

I had to curate my homes RA2 Select system. It was a royal pain. You’re spot on - Lutron wants to keep the RA2 lines (RA2 and RA2 select) for Lutron dealers. I wish they would make them commercially available without jumping through hoops.

[@improvedgarage]

What little Lutron I have I really like. I’m excited to get more and I’ll reach out to Ed when I’m ready. The section about the dimmers working better with the neutral makes sense. The neutral is providing a reference voltage to the switch so it has a constant 120vac and then it can infinitely control the output. If you don’t have a neutral it needs to reference the voltage from the hot feed on the switch and the neutral on the other side of the load. When you have that resistance in the middle from the load the circuitry inside the switch doesn’t have a consistent operating voltage.

[@agpatel21]

Starting to change our switches to the new Caseta rockers and the Lutron system is rock solid. Also, thanks for tuning off my lighty when you started talking to Siri 😂

[@timkinley1779]

My dog barks when Chase barks.

[@AlexanderLuberg]

Outlets with usbs were not worth it in my experience. The power supply inside of it gives way too little current compared to modern quickchargers. This should hopefully change when GaN3 inwall chargers appear on the market

[@FC-fq1gk]

Mike's back😆

[@xtrmwakeborder]

Love my Caseta switches on HomeKit. I’ll buy the remaining switches for my house when you get them in stock vs. Home Depot.

[@kimnewling5728]

Crazy cool

[@ragefury1578]

I did a Caseta install at my house -- couple of things I saw in the video that might help. On the Picos -- remove that tab if flush mounting to wall (leave the plastic tab only if going over a box). That's why they are poking out on the top in the master bedroom. Also, attach all switches/picos to the wallplate first and then tighten the wallplate to the switch box. More consistent reveal/depth around the switches.

[@ObsessedGarage]

Oh yeah.... good call. I totally forgot about that!

[@RobRedMedia]

Totally hit it on the plate screw down technique. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Most electricians don't know that technique and they come out wonky.

[@niklasxl]

Matt might be surprised to learn that all websites are actually still html :D theres just css and javascript there to make the webpages more interesting :D

[@TheBradmd]

Any suggestions for learning to program a radio ra2 main repeater that I inherited in a new to us house? I added the bridge so I can use the app, also took the test to get essentials software from lutron

[@jackblack4091]

Matt why didn't you use the caseta wireless smart lighting lamp dimmer for your bedside lamps?

[@motiOn732]

Key to the whole thing is scenes and schedules

[@tylerwatt12]

I don't know if that's true. I just tested my Caseta with no neutral, on 4 recessed lights as far as they will dim, and it only used 1 watt

[@lordgarth1]

I need to check these out and compare against my Shelly switches. I’m not a dumbass so I don’t mind having to do a bit of work. Sounds like Lutron might possibly be catching up with what DIY has offered for years.

[@lisak3186]

Very helpful video - the lutron training leaves a lot to be desired. You referenced a programming video. can you share the link please?

[@ObsessedGarage]

I haven't made one yet.

[@bert4910]

Thats cool stuff, so once you set everything up on your phone can you send your whole set up to say Michelle's phone or does everyone have to set up individually? Maybe its just on the network and you just sign into the app? I'm sure the siri works for everyone as well?

[@AERocker]

I have my Lutron’s hooked up to my HomeKit, and anyone who has access to my Home (my wife), can access all of the lights in the house. The Lutron app is cool, but the real automation comes when their connected to HomeKit. Also, yes, Siri works with all of the switches.

[@chilson88]

So with the 3-way switch out in the house from the election. When replacing with Lutron do I need a 3-way switch and the peco or just a regular Lutron switch and connect the peco to it?

[@ObsessedGarage]

It depends on the Lutron platform. In this case RA2, you just need a RRD-PRO as the main, put the blacks together on the other switch and cap red, then pair the Pico.

[@blondiebxl]

I wonder for how long those Lutron USB sockets will stay installed, since they are USB-A and appliances are making the switch to USB-C.

[@AERocker]

All he has to do is get a USB-A to USB-C cable.

[@Tonybologne805]

Just changed four units at my apartment for usb and usb c with two outlets. The landlord wouldn’t pay for the loose outlets to get replaced since they still work. Was asking what wall mounts you guys were using but y’all acting janky about. Taught myself how to change my outlets and clipped and cleaned up the wires and housing boxes and also found one hot wire had melted one of the old outlets

[@bobekdj]

So why RA2 / RA2 Select over Lutron's Caseta(or new Diva) series dimmers/switches which are easier to get at local hardware stores? Seems like they have similar functionality?

[@ObsessedGarage]

Caseta is capped at 75 devices.

[@bobekdj]

@@ObsessedGarage sweet thanks for the speedy reply (and sorry I just now watched the last 8 minutes where you mentioned the answer to this thought, sorry the kiddos wouldn't let me get through the entire video yesterday). Have a bunch of smart home stuff, super annoying when it doesn’t work due to cloud or hub disconnections. I’ve been switching over rooms to the Lutron caseta since they have been rock solid, Lutron makes great products and interfaces with apple nicely and local control. I’ve realized using the apple home app by sliding down the top right corner of my iphone and it has my most frequently used devices right there. Makes it super simple and will probably work with your raw 2 stuff. Side note thank you a bunch for getting me to switch my tvs over to Apple TVs and cec control like you did in the Helen house. Can run everything from my phone which has been awesome in the media room and garage to be able to control the tv, power, and volume all from the iPhone. Do you know how to turn the volume up / down faster with the volume buttons on the iPhone? Seems like I have to hit the button 30 times to get the volume up and down at times.

[@alford35]

I bought 2 Grafik Eye 6 zone units and ran all the pelv wires for future Smart Control panels that tie the 2 GE units together back in 2010/2011. I want to upgrade a bunch of my other outlets and switches but it’s impossible without hiring an expensive lighting integrator because also need to use special software when working with Color Changing LEDs ran from a Grafik Eye system. I went down the rabbit hole of trying to do it myself by reaching out to Lutron but one of the positions required to help me isn’t even available in the state of Kentucky (WTF). How is that even possible for the company not being able to help me just because I live in Kentucky which didn’t seem to have that position filled is beyond me. They sell parts here so why not help customers here!!!! Really ticked me off to say the least! I want to use Control4 or Savant at some point but would like to be able to get a simple 2 room setup with my two Grafik Eye units myself now. The low load was an issue I ran into when installed 4 tiny step lights in my theater on a zone of one of the GE units. I had to add a resistor or switch out the step lights for higher load so could dim them at all. They wouldn’t even dim down hardly any.

[@alice23139]

Obsessed Home Depot

[@chriscarr1791]

Will you guys ever look at Caseta ? I feel like alot more people would be able to approach the Castea line compared to RA2 just because of availability. Would love to see your guys take and approach at Caseta as well.

[@ObsessedGarage]

Yes we will. The biggest problem with adopting Caseta is there is no 0-10V solution for CREE lighting.

[@chriscarr1791]

@@ObsessedGarage that totally sucks! because as a proud canadian myself lol Cree is like one of the only cool things that is easy for us to get haha

[@motiOn732]

Lol Mike cutaway from the live receptacle install

[@RobRedMedia]

I have a maxed out Caseta system (75 devices) 100% reliable. If you really want to maximize Caseta or smart homes in general... Home Assistant running on RaspPi will set your imagination free. How about repurposing a Pico to control shades (power view in my case) while simultaneous controlling a lighting scene? Home Assistant.

[@motiOn732]

You can do this all in Hubitat as well. Programmed whole house Caseta scenes to pico remotes on pedestals at key points in the house. Between that and scheduled scenes it's all pretty incredible. Basically never touch a light switch in common areas of the house

[@Jacobhopkins117]

Seeing home assistant content on this channel would honestly have me floored. 🥲

[@ericbuszka907]

This set up is Lutron Radio RA2 Select. Radio RA 2 and now 3 have a lot more features but require a dedicated program/software to program. I believe anyone can take the Lutron training, get certified and then have access to the software for their own use.

[@georgesnyder5337]

@@motiOn732 the Caseta hub doesn't integrate with Hubitat (at least not natively)

[@RobRedMedia]

@@Jacobhopkins117 HA is too fiddly for Matt. But it sure is nice to combine all the smart devices into one app and extend what lutron or others can do. I have a Pico that opens and closes my Chamberlain garage door (lift) for example. Presence detection lighting automations are fantastic and easy with HA.

[@MindlessArts]

just switch to the Lutron RR-MAIN-REP-WH

[@motiOn732]

Anyone have Lutron Homeworks?

[@ac7384]

What m12 drill is that using on the outlet ?

[@ObsessedGarage]

This one: www.obsessedgarage.com/products/milwaukee-m12-surge-1-4-hex-hydraulic-impact-driver?_pos=1&_sid=b6eaee406&_ss=r

[@ac7384]

@@ObsessedGarage this be good for small things like screwing in outlet covers. Etc ?? Or would something else be better for that

[@barneyswiss8054]

Did you realy work without taking the fuse out??? 😳

[@ronpierce9034]

What's a peek oh? PICO?

[@P2Feener305]

Should have done ra3 ra2 is discontinued.

[@OscarM.94]

14:45 🤣🤣

[@amithimani8163]

Hey, Matt, why not RA3 in 2023?

[@ricksledd]

Because he's using RA2 Select, not the full flavor RA2/RA3 that requires Lutron training and programming software. A home his size, though, really should be using the full RA2/RA3 due to the number of devices.

[@Gramps83]

This is a lot better than that system Linus was trying to get working in his house.

[@kravmaga501]

Radio Ra 2 has to be programmed By software. Not the app. Ra 2 select can be programmed via smart hub. Ra 2 isn’t a DIY hobby system.

[@MindlessArts]

SnapAV has everything

[@eopian]

I think you still over complicated this. Most rooms don’t need connectivity. I found kids rooms work best with manual on, auto off (motion switches). For the master we have a regular switch intercepting the motion switch so it’s auto on and off during the day and just off at night. This way only a couple rooms auto turn on at night, and you can walk around in the middle of the night without waking anyone up (and without blinding yourself).

[@eopian]

BTW, I love the plates with hidden screws.

[@paulk9534]

Many people aren’t like you as they cant afford to pay $100 per light for so many fittings. This stuff is seriously expensive.

[@ObsessedGarage]

Fair point. However, there still are people that are willing to pay a premium for quality.

[@paulk9534]

@@ObsessedGarage agreed, I have many to replace, initially one row of four switches each to be independently dimmed and I’m looking at $500 just for that one bank (relay and pico each) am I missing something, is there a better way to do it?

[@wowyummyyy]

L I K E 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 😻 😻😻 😻😻💟💟💟💟💟

[@jasonward73]

Spend $100+ (I'm guessing) on a motion sensor and switch to save $.000004 in electricity in the event someone does leave a light on. How about take away your kids phone, video game, or whatever each time they forget to turn off a light and just teach them to be a responsible human?