Installing Rear A/C Block Off

In this video Eric O. demonstrates how he blocks off the rear air conditioning evaporator on a Dodge Grand Caravan. This is an option a lot of customers choose here in the rust belt because of the constant problems with the rear a/c lines and evaporators and the expense associated with repairing them year after year.
S.U.R.& R. AC80 A/C Compression Block Off Kit: amzn.to/2oBS117
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Robinair 34788-H A/C Recover, Recycle, Recharge Machine for Hybrid and Non-Hybrid Vehicles : amzn.to/2pnDBz7
VIDEO: Chrysler Town & Country - Rear A/C Evaporator - Replacement : • Chrysler Town & Countr...
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South Main Auto Repair
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.

[@turkraja255]

neighbourhood of Eric O is very lucky to have very talented man. good video

[@davidhoekje7842]

Thanks for the video Eric. As a plumber for many years I've gotten mid sized compression fittings down to a reliable connection. A good guide is that once the nut is against the ferrule tightening 6-8 nut facets from there is a reliable seal. So that's approximately one full turn up to 1 1/3. It doesn't hurt to add a drop of oil on the surface of the ferrule to guard against galling, in your case refrigeration oil.

[@SouthMainAuto]

great advice, thanks!

[@titaniumdiveknife]

Mr. O, Thank you for being a real OG dad and mechanic. You're a real stand-up guy. cheers!

[@MrMallen1315]

Great video! Your videos have given me the confidence to work on my family's cars and save thousands of dollars. I used to be afraid to remove things to get to the items that were broke. I am no longer afraid to do what is necessary to fix a problem. Thank you again.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Ahhh rip and tear man!

[@mr.h4714]

another fantastic example of a dedicated amazing mechanic Dr O as humble as you seem I'm certain you are probably amazed at all the positive comments you get... you truly are a master of your craft and a top notch person.... I'd drive a hundred miles to use your shop if you were closer..... unfortunately Chicago is a bit to far away from you.... Techs like yourself are few and far between man....keep up the great work!!!!

[@dhickman004]

Used this video and bought the SUR&R AC80 Block off kit, from Advanced Auto, to repair my air in my 07 Chrysler Aspen! My AC is cooold now! Thanks my good man!

[@jonarruda2719]

Welcome back to the Dodge Caravan Channel!

[@mikeholt3545]

yeah Eric o on Friday morning! always good to see a professional work

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Since I'm retired it's fun to watch anybody work since I don't have to.

[@brettrossi3047]

This video came at the right time. I brought my 2005 GC in for a/c work and was told that one of the fittings was cross threaded. The shop said they couldn't install their block off kit. I ordered the kit you used and had them install it. Now I have a/c again. Thanks for the fix. By the way I am the 2nd owner my father in-law was the 1st. Van was always serviced at a dodge dealer. He never had any work done to the a/c. So go figure on the cross threaded fitting. Thanks again.

[@stigonutube]

Good Video as always a True Professional in my opinion.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Thanks!

[@mikechiodetti6737]

I'm sending this one to the people I used to work with in L.A. Cool tools and the block off parts. Great Video!

[@willpuchalsky8900]

Good video as usual ! I see you have some UK viewers ? Keep em coming fella. I love watching your videos. Sometimes I'd rather watch your flicks rather then watching the ole TV. Have a good one.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Thanks man

[@wxfield]

Hey Eric, just wanted to say that I have crimped the ends shut and brazed them closed. I have also used a tig to join the crushed ends too. That's a super-cheap and fast solution that lasts years..or at least until the steel lines rot out anyway..which in upstate NY is pretty much year round. You know you have salt issues when the deer come out to lick the roads in mid-summer! I do know that steel is highly anodic in the presence of brass (the ferule), so expect some serious galvanic action there.

[@SouthMainAuto]

these line are aluminum...

[@wxfield]

Yep. Alumiweld. Crush end with pliers. Low heat. No Flux. Add material. Bob's your uncle. Your mileage may vary, but this is how we do it on the farm and the block lasts for years.

[@dickhead7400]

Hey Eric O. Did you know this is episode 370 since your first one on Oct 22, 2014? That's a lot of great content you've created! Please keep these videos coming!

[@todayintheshopbanksy5904]

Fancy buying a machine that's sensitive to Brake Clean, No wonder it was going Bananas, the back ground reading in your shop must be sky high lol !!

[@SouthMainAuto]

Lol so true!

[@ptaweston]

The worst problem with heated diode refrigerant leak detectors is that the diodes don't last long, about 2 years, and they're expensive to replace, about $50. Also, as the diode ages, the sensitivity decreases drastically. Additionally, heated diode detectors are more sensitive to other refrigerants than to R134a. For R134a, I prefer negative corona detectors or infrared detectors and they last 10 years.

[@wyattoneable]

Solid fix. Thanks for thinking about us DIY'ers. I have a local shop who's very reasonable in his AC work and the ol' Dodge has a leak so he'll get the job.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Sweet!

[@mikepj1025]

Great video man. Thanks so much. I am having this same issue with my 2017 Ford Explorer. 137,000 miles and counting. My mechanic just asked me if I wanna block it off. This video made me understand what was going on. Seems like a bad design and location to put these lines.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

I just cut off the rear AC loop in my 2001 Astro van. I cut the lines as close to the main loop as I could... I used caps that look just like what you used... The system had already been evacuated last year so I just bought a service kit with a vacuum pump and gauge set... worked great! Yeah, I put about 32oz of refrigerant in the smaller system. I also replaced the AC compressor, accumulator, condenser, orifice and all the O rings on all the fittings before I recharged it. I flushed all the lines with approved solvent too!

[@masterjoe3000]

your #1 when it comes to video detail...and variety for all of us to watch...thanks man

[@Brooklynraised68]

yes hes the best on KZbin for sure easy to understand and follow HES THE MAN !

[@ironeagle2526]

I love this guy great explanations takes his time and does the job right doesn't jump to conclusions one of the best around I have seen all his videos and have learned a lot I only I wish I lived closer to him to thank him in person for all teaching he does for all of us thanks again Eric O

[@klwthe3rd]

How many shops would even educate the customer that they have an option to block off the system to the rear? none! The first shop tht this guy took it too I feel even tried to sell the guy a new compressor when he obviously didnt need it. Eric O. tested it and it was just fine. Another example of dishonest mechanics selling services not needed. I personally would love to buy that sniffer since the price isnt too bad for a DIYer. A/C is critical down south where I live. Great video.

[@emtscythe3782]

I have used those block offs numerous times, they are the best ones I have found. The brass ones usually fail within a year.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

21st Century engineering at it's finest right there. Way to work, Chrysler! You hit that one right outta the park! Down the toilet/wormhole we go! Unreal ... This is one job I haven't come across yet. Glad I've got this one in the memory bank now for the future! Those are some slick fittings. Gotta grab a set of the compression union ones - those will save me a ton of money. I love doing A/C work. Learned it when I was living in Phoenix - no better motivator than a black interior at 115°F ambient. :D I've been doing it old school for a long time with my same 18 year old gauge set. Last year I finally picked up a recovery machine - not a fancy electronic one, but a portable Mastercool 69100 unit, along with the 69500 oil & moisture separator, and a couple recovery tanks - one for R12 (2 of my cars are running it :) ) and one for 134a. Thing works great! Also picked up a Bacharach H-10 Pro - that thing is unreal, although a little gaudy (and spendy) for automotive work. We had better start stockpiling 134a, if history is any indicator! 1234YF is about to take over soon. Here we go again ... 1993 part 2.0 .... deja-vu central.

[@peej123]

Mr. O - another great video. Thank you for keeping us DIYers in mind!

[@motorcyclesandridingfree2899]

I use the Block offs that screw right to the factory line fittings they seem to work really well. We get them straight from our parts supplier. The other end I just tape up with electrical tape the best I can to keep dirt out. I have used Sur&r stuff and it all seems to work really well like the trans fittings the make for gms

[@redcloud5813]

Much easier than cutting AC lines

[@adamtrombino106]

Thanks to your previous video, I did a couple of rear a/c replacements, and they are pretty easy. I was a bit gun shy at 1st, but you walked 'us' through it with n/p. I think the next customer that comes in with this problem, I may try to do this block off procedure as an alternative. Replacing everything that is necessary, is indeed quite costly!

[@joeshearer1247]

H10 leak detector is the one tried and true every HVAC tech trusts if you ever have to upgrade . Consider getting a bottle and regulator to use dry nitrogen to pressure test the system instead of only using atmospheric pressure via vacuum test.

[@AJISFREAKENAWESOME]

as I've said before. I love seeing a sma video uploaded in the morning. especially this wonderful Friday morning. bout to head out the door. once I get to the shop I got an alternator and fuel filters to do on a e350 with the beautiful 6.OH

[@Thor7167]

Hey, I'm Scott, I used a block off kit I got from a suppler, the part # is OTH694. You can google it, you just unscrew the fittings just below the firewall and these caps screw right back on. Simple check them out. Scott

[@No5elfCTRL]

A shop wanted to charge my mom $1,600 for the repair job. Gonna go ahead and do it myself thanks to you!

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Have this exact issue with a my boss's van! Thanks for the info! Great suggestions and products Eric.

[@terrdac]

Had a 98 Tahoe rear a/c leaked. Shop could not break the evap loose so told them to delete it. This guy took lines off from under hood and had another guy flatten and weld the aluminum tight on each line. Great shop did great job worked nice. Prolly didn't have nice kits back then?

[@ThePlowGuys]

Perfect timing for these types of videos. Look forward to some more spring time car fixes. All the best buddy.

[@sim672]

you can buy a cap kit for around $70 online and under the passenger side door there are two unions that can be unscrewed one for high one for low pressure and the kit just screws right onto those to block off the rear ac. no cutting of lines required. im no mechanic and was able to do it on my wife's 2011 dodge grand caravan in my driveway in less than an hour. there are vids on youtube that show this as well.

[@SierraOne]

Once again a excellent vid depicting your skill. Is that a new camera, the video quality is stellar! Thanks for everything!

[@SouthMainAuto]

Nope same old handi cam I have been using for years

[@terrancegrant1664]

"AC facial".......olle Eric-O taken it to the next level ;)

[@frugalprepper]

The compressor oil moisturizes and the Freon will freeze off the pimples.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Hey you could be onto something Tom!

[@Starcrunch72]

Although the UV green might clash with your mascara...

[@kontkret]

As usually - quality job. Eric, you are real craftsman!

[@sledgehammer6759]

I could do it if I had a high lift and all your experience and know how , you make it look easy . I like that mini sawsall or whatever you call it. A great vid.

[@STREETSTANG07]

Very nice. I have never seen those block off fittings I will order some. Still using the older sniffer maybe look into this new one . Thanks again as always.

[@nmattcar]

cool story i was in hvac class i was coming back from a quick mental break (with the group i was in i needed it).we were working on a focus i asked them hey did you evac the system.they lied i put the release tool on the high pressure side of the evaporator gave a little wiggle and boom pag oil Freon everywhere.i was beyond pissed

[@1fnjo790]

Sometimes after recovering the system , you need to wait till very cold components warm back up to ambient temperature and hit recover again because pressure can build back up as temperature comes up

[@mikeeustice4452]

great video Eric and as far as fitting I've been using sur&r for years their fuel line fittings are hands down the best no gun to use like dorman . a.c. season is here

[@SouthMainAuto]

I really like their stuff

[@fieldsofomagh]

Job well done, good attention to detail and why settle for 2nd best with the parts !

[@davetempeny9928]

Great job on the video, I'm a refrigeration Mechanic and appreciate your attention to detail. Dave T Ottawa Canada

[@bigg4454]

Had a similar situation with a full size van where there were compression "tees" there. I just took 'em out and replaced 'em with straight compression lines. First time I ever eliminated a rear unit, but folks love their a/c systems down here in Maryland so......well, procedures like that don't happen often haha!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Them block offs are very nice Eric O good work as always Easy Peasy Job @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC

[@johnmckamy6398]

gotta do what ya gotta do when times are tough , its good that they sell that block off kit

[@highroller8877]

John McKamy I think they choose this way because it's their second car hardly no one ever sitting in the back so why spend $600+ to fix something that doesn't get used.

[@jamestrapp3783]

I got an Autel MS908TS after watching you and how well it works for a fraction of the cost of a Verus. I know it won't have the support like the Snap On but I can always phone a friend. Lol

[@thommartin309]

Most vans with rear a/c have a manifold connecting the front lines to the rear. If you cut the lines just past the connection point and than remove the manifold and take them to the bench and crimp the tubes and than weld them shut, or have a a/c shop weld them, than reinstall the manifold and you are capped off. If you can weld aluminum you can save the expense of the block off kit. You can even do this on the car if no junction is found, but you should have a spotter to watch for any fire that may start.

[@anomamos9095]

I think I've said this before but you should consider doing rust prevention treatments on new and near new cars. to seal a line if not critical just squirt in a little glue or silicone and flatten the tube then fold over and crimp it. That method is also a good emergency fix for a hole in a radiator if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere.

[@paulspicer9898]

I'm a new subscriber addicted to all these videos

[@omusic777]

Question, if one of those lines got a split in it or a small crack, can you cut at that point and apply a high temperature rubber hose and clamp it? Great video!

[@jaybourbon8608]

What are these block offs actually called so i can go to my local napa and get them. My 06 sienna is leaking by the rear line also. I don't see a return on mone though? Do most ac systems all have a sent and a return? Thanks in advance

[@bhelwig13]

Just had this method done to my Dodge Durango, works like a charm

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

I used the ones from StreetRodGuys.com a long time ago and Auto Cooling Solutions and with their fittings you just undo the lines and install the block off fittings & o'rings. The splice kit you use is universal which is great for a shop plus the majority of yours in NY probably seldom want to replace the evaporator every 2 years. Down here in Hotlanta they say block it off but usually they come back & want it fixed when they find out how hot the back of the van gets in 100+ degrees but then again we don't have a corrosion problem down here so the rear HVAC units last a lot longer. I haven't done one in awhile b/c I sold my RobinAir & a lot of my shop equipment when I thought I was retiring & closed up shop but after both shoulder surgery recoveries & tendinitis repair I feel pretty good and am getting back at it again & looking for a shop at a reasonable price...I love this crap it's in my blood. My devoted customers come to my house now. Fixed an oil leak on a 54 Studebaker yesterday...sweet ride! He came to my house to show it to me and when I seen the oil leaking on the header collector I figured I'd tighten up the oil gauge line before he either caught it on fire or blew up the new small block crate engine on his first day owning it :D 77K subs...awesome!!

[@SouthMainAuto]

Yeah I know the feeling man. I have grease and oil running through my veins too! I always cut these in a spot that can be fixed because you just never know :D

[@daleyurk4369]

Eric, I must be missing something. How does the R134 circulate if both the low and high pressure lines are blocked off? Doesn't the system have to be a loop? I figure I'm just slow this morning! Really appreciate your very professional videos and mechanical skills. Thanks!

[@SouthMainAuto]

The front system is still "looped"

[@scooter12368]

I have seen other blocks as different locations. you have the better of alternatives, because others cut further downstream. thanks

[@Travisfromoregon]

Hey, Eric you should look into just using a bottle of Nitrogen when checking a system that is empty. Charge the Bi#ch to 300psi and see what leaks. The sniffer will still work, soap and water will work good as well. It will cut your repair times down, and extend the life of your filter drier. Allows you to disconnect the line and check those pain in the ass leaking schradder valves that always start leaking just after your done charging the system.

[@bbgdaddy5198]

Love the videos. I noticed the Jasper Engines and trans sign hanging in the shop. It would be great if you did a vid about your experience with their stuff and your opinion on them. I see them a lot but am curious what a professional thinks of them and why. I mostly work on small engine stuff and farm equipment but I too LOVE the brake clean!!! I buy it by the case.......regularly!!!!

[@johnp7318]

Any chance that the oil pools at those "line blocks" and starves the compressor of oil?

[@boaterbil]

Not flowing, Why would it pool?

[@plastbestikk]

I was thinking the same. Maybe connecting the ends instead of blinding them. If not oil will accumulate, moisture will.

[@topherd1011]

No.

[@fixinggrace]

plastbestikk It would damage the compressor

[@OneAuto]

That's a great solution, never used them myself. Thanks

[@evanmahan5091]

Excellent video. Wish you were in Illinois

[@joetiller1031]

Great engineering dodge, as always good fix Eric O.

[@gregory891]

Very clever to resolve this in a cost effective way. You could use a plumbing copper pipe cutter to cut off the tubes, which would minimize debris / deburring time.

[@jrjulien7394]

I just flare the aluminum tubing with a standard refrigeration 45 degree single flare and use brass fittings to cap it. same thing for joining lines back together. fittings are cheap too and can be taken apart many times if needed

[@nathansmith7653]

So you don't need to loop those 2 lines together so the refrigerant circulates? I have rear a/c lines that look like they have either been cut or rotted away. I didn't know about these fittings. I also thought I had to make a line to connect the 2 to lines together so it circulates the refrigerant. Like a coolant line.

[@aterack833]

“Oddly enough they don’t corrode out here” a reason for that could be that the wheel debris has a tendency to try to follow the movement of the wheel and will shoot off with a slight curve and upwards rather than straight up or straight back, that and like all corrosion related issues, it’s enclosed on most sides, what you really need is one of those dumb rear wiper bottles placed right around it as a shield with fluid dampening and a protective layer of fluid upon failure to protect

[@RandallPress]

Great video, My car is in the shop now for same issue.

[@aldee3018]

great video. i now have the same problem with my rear ac lines leaking but i'm not sure if i want to block them off or splice the lines to get rid of the area that's got the hole.

[@Sacapuntas69]

Oh man. I am learning so much from your videos. "Snug em up till they're snug" hahaha! Another great video sir! So minivans have 2 a/c and heat systems?

[@SouthMainAuto]

Yes one in the front and one in the back

[@zensterful]

Gotta say Eric, If it wasn't for the Dodges, Fords, and Chevys, it would be a bit difficult to make these awesome videos.

[@nanqi521]

Hey, Eric. I have a question: when I am working on suspension that all the bolt or ball joint bolts stuffs like that, my older mechanic coworker told me to use anti seize on all the bolts that I am putting back, but will them be come loose over times or vibrations? And when after I cleaning up the hub applying anti seize to the hub, sometimes anti seize got on lug bolts, will it comes loose? Thank you for all the videos, you are awesome mechanic. By the way, I am living at California, there's almost no rust!

[@focusfrenzy9759]

need to check the calibration of your gauge! it was not blowing that cold, if it was it would freeze up. get a cup deep enough to submerge the shaft of the gauge and fill it with crushed ice and water and let it sit with gauge in it long enough to stabilize, it should read 32*f. old school gauges like that have a nut on back you put wrench on and turn head to adjust.

[@TheJustina102085]

My 2015 Ford Explorer has the same issue I believe.. all because living up in the north east eats away these rear lines that aren’t insulated enough apparently.. I’m hoping I can pull off a fix like this because to reline the entire system I was quoted at over 2k..

[@TheKnightda8]

Im sure somebody already said it..... but hotrodguys sells excellent block offs. I have used a ton of them on Chrysler minivans..... $60-70 per kit if I recall.... no compression fittings.

[@russelldilworth1784]

i thought the two pipes that you cut, that go to the rear evaporator were meant to be in a circuit??----How can the gas and liquid flow when you dont join the two ends up??

[@danielmarra1555]

They are not in series with the front of the car.

[@dg98adams]

Thanks... been considering do exactly that. 5/8 & 3/8 is the line fitting for 2005 T&C too.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Just did an 05 yesterday and yes they use the same block offs.

[@dg98adams]

I found you can buy the fittings individually on amazon, Dorman..... $15 each.... I have used Dorman in the past, but for the price??????? I also found the SUR fittings individually on eBay for ~$25-29 each...

[@Albatr0ss222]

I have many of those "buckets with the million things in it" LOL. RHS Mobile Auto Repair LLC, Ann Arbor, Mi.

[@maherzaidan7190]

You are great guy I learned to many thing from you God bless you 👍

[@johnfitzsimmons326]

I know this is an old video but was hoping to get info or long term results with this? Specifically any issues capping the lines under a vehicle and experiencing oil pooling in the dead lines and causing loss of oil to the compressor ? I used the sur&r fittings on my pathfinder and cut the lines below the level of the front line set because it seemed like the best spot. This was behind the passenger wheel area. Now I’m thinking I should try and bend the 2 lines up as much as I can do they are higher to prevent pooling ? Thoughts ?

[@jwa718]

I'm in-process doing this on an 05 E350 with factory rear air & heat, anticipate using the kit from AutoCoolingSolutions. Cost is about $70 but honestly I expect the location they specify their kit be installed is very, very inaccessible. If I don't replace the factory hoses and rec/dryer with those parts without rear air the Dorman parts or Eric's SU R & R might be used instead. One question though---would it be better to cap the lines closer under the hood or is that area just just not accessible? Good video though---learned a lot!

[@FortyTwoAnswerToEverything]

My 03 Envoy has the failed mechanical fan that doesn't spin up right away, so I actually have to wait a few minutes before turning on the AC. If I flip it on too early, I can hear the refrigerant bubbling in the rear evap core. Planning on swapping over the electric fans and a PCM patch for computer control.

[@ShainAndrews]

Saweeet! DGC is back!

[@jaybourbon6169]

Hey great video. I am hoping to block the rear ac line off completely, but I am concerned about what happens to the compressor oil after I do so. Would the compressor oil be backing up in the line with this method? I was told that the proper approach would be to block the line off up front ... I want to insure that the compressor continues to get oil, and I am not sure where or how to block the line up front so that it can still circulate. I really need to get this fixed asap.. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I wish Dorman made EVAP cores...

[@UBBERTANKER]

im sure they would be top notch!

[@BIGBilly]

I just bought a town and country that had this done to it. How much work would it take to reverse the process?

[@deanharris2240]

Great video! I’m removing the rear hvac unit in my suburban and I’ll use your block off for the A/C lines. Got any advice on how to tie off the coolant lines (down below) to rear heater?

[@thecuss6817]

I used a pre-shaped U-shape heater hose on our 1994 Suburban to bypass the rear heater. I just went to parts store and they let me look through their stock of pre-formed heater hose.

[@GhettoWagon]

Those leak sniffers can make you go bonkers. I have a inficon one, made in NY! apparently... It can throw false positives like crazy specifically where around AC oil was being slung from a leak. I kind of like the small UV flash lights better you can visually see the leak bubbling out.

[@1fnjo790]

I would think that the block offs installed at low points of system without circulation would allow the blocked off tubes to just fill with the system lubricant and deprive the AC compressor of needed lubricant .

[@arm2644]

The leak on all evaporator is on the aluminium core not on the expansion valve. The humidity produced by the cooling cycle produces fungus. This fungus eats the aluminium and produces microscopic holes where the R134a leaks. The life expectancy of the evaporator depends on the thickness of the aluminium core. Like most thinks in the car industry all original evaporators have built in planned obsolescence. In this case I don't think the leak has to do with location behind the rear tire since the evaporator core is inside protected by the plastic housing.

[@Wavezone304]

I got a blown compressor. Just bought the van. I don't have the money to replace everything require. What would be the bare minimum i could get away with for the summer. Thanks.

[@Sandbag1300]

Another thumbs up SMA quality video production! That person is going to want to reverse his decision to cut off the rear A/C unit once the weather gets warmer. Too much square footage inside that vehicle to be handled by only one unit. It will become a toaster oven first time temps reach 90 degrees F.

[@majdr622]

Eric -- I have a 2013 T&C. The Rear A/C doesn't work but front does. Would that most likely be the evaporator "H" valve? Would you recommend trying to remove and replace just that valve or is it better to take out the whole thing, evaporator with the valve together and why? Any help/suggestions in this matter are appreciated.

[@donnieshepperson126]

what about adding a little black silicone in those fitting? Just to know you really sealed it off!

[@mame-lomamee]

So I see this this video was made five 5 years ago,Question is do I still have to get the part from Chrysler or is there any other supplier? Thanks in advance

[@danielmarra1555]

That’s a great compressor if it makes 32 degree air as you mentioned!!

[@autopro21]

When you block the rear ac Is there any cold air that comes out of rear vents? And the controls are non functioning or the rear vents don’t work anymore ?

[@robertrodriguez3081]

I’m curious about blocking the rear ac in a 2006 Durango. I keep finding spring lock block off kits for them. I don’t quite understand how to install them. So is it possible to use the kit you have or do I have to use the spring lock kit? Because yours seems simple.

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Fantastic tutorial, and nice tools..

[@chosipian]

just wonder if rear mud flaps would help protect A/C if not bad yet or after repair if done? some flaps just stick on even....