Installing The BRAKE SYSTEM AND DASH BOARD ON MY 1965 FORD MUSTANG GT

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►Hey Guys , In today's video we are Working on my 1965 Ford Mustang Gt we Finally are getting the brakes set up!
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[@23RD]

Bring back our cool boss mr “my shop has AC I be chillin” btw mustang looking good 😍

[@aaronuuu]

Lol 😂

[@mhiscott]

haha, Ben complaining it's hot with the Cool Boss in the background the same day Yuri drops a video saying they need that back lolol Ben needs to hit up Bendpak for a re-up!

[@bryduhbikeguy]

@@mhiscott he already has a 2nd lift rusting outside.Remember,"I don't see a need for a 2nd lift so I'm going to remove it for space".?

[@mhiscott]

@@bryduhbikeguy I meant hit them up for another cool boss fan unit. Bendpak sells those which is why all the guys sponsored by bendpak have them. Tavarish, goonzquad, vtuned etc.

[@FLA30561]

Shop got ac until he seen the monthly bill 🤣😂

[@MrGFG003]

Quick tip: Take a look at the 2018 Ford Escape 2.0 EcoBoost brake reservoir, brake fluid tank and brake booster system. You can put the booster wherever you find it more appropiate, and use a similar system as the Escape to put the reservoir on some other point, not necessarily on top of the brake booster. I find it quite smart as you don't need to have the brake booster on an easy to access spot, but a far more convenient spot, and have that reservoir tank on an easy to access spot just in case.

[@RoteKampfflieger]

Make some kind of protection for the master brake cylinder or iner fender so that stones from under the wheels do not hit it and that the brake fluid does not spill into the wheels if something breaks up or leak. Route the brake hoses as far away from the wheel as possible, preferably over the engine tub, to minimize possible chipping with stones. Safety first and foremost.

[@joshuaogden7910]

I agree the brake cylinder must be protected!!! from stones getting picked up from spinning tires. The brake fluid is most important fluid in car

[@wdckellogg]

MY thoughts were You dont want to do that. but after seing the trans tunnel "I'm like well that would match design and functionality. Go for it.

[@speedsterwinston]

Rock kicks up and destroys brake master cylinder in turn destroying Mustang and destroying Ben. Extremely dumb idea.

[@Bnm-fk9fi]

Ben did mention this at the 13 min mark so hopefully will follow thru.

[@fckurcouch]

And to also protect from as much water as possible to help prevent rust/rott from happening

[@dcrahn]

I've seen some people do some stupid sh#t in my time, but dude, you take the cake. You work on cars and you don't even know the arrangement of the brake and clutch pedals.

[@theanythingchannel2239]

Relax its an easy fix

[@williamday7238]

@@theanythingchannel2239 Its a scam

[@tripleeathletics]

You gotta think things through a little better bud. The Clutch Master Cylinder needs to be on the left side, so since you mounted the brake booster over there, that just causes more work in the long run. Hopefully it works out for you.

[@aaronjmet]

more mistakes equals more work equals more videos equals more video revenue

[@Hobodeluxe960]

yeah I was shaking my head thinking he doesn't even realize what he's doing. I'd punt on that and put the clutch master cylinder there and the brake where it should be. yeah it will be more work but probably not as much as trying to jerry rig that pedal.

[@rubio21223]

IM PRETTY SURE HE KNOWS WHAT HE’S DOING SO JUST SIT DOWN AND WATCH!

[@Prosecute-fauci]

@@rubio21223 just like he knew what he was doing with the tube chassis for the mustang that he cut in half?? Yeah, he said himself that he is learning as he goes. By definition that means that he does not know what he is doing.

[@markduncker9117]

My idea also

[@MrMajoPommes]

Love the progress on this thing :D maybe some kind of sealant for the Brake Booster Box (and all other screw mounted things to the firewall) would be nice to prevent moisture getting inside the interior, e.g. rubber or some silicone based stuff so it can be removed. Except you are going full race car with no carpeting.

[@billh230]

I was thinking that, too. 3M makes a strip caulk that comes in a box of pre-formed bead strips. Excellent for things like his booster cover. Never dries out and conforms easily to the sealing surface.

[@mixalis6168]

Is that all you can think of, how about setting up engine to diff correctly ! Suspension mods too !!!

[@MrMajoPommes]

@@mixalis6168 Refered to this video, it's the only thing i can think of yes. I wouldn't like people to tell me what to do either, so i'm trying to give helpful suggestion one the current video.

[@harleco1]

Dude, you are over your head on this build.

[@Liofa73]

You’ve got to love constructive criticism. Harley McCorcle, an old man that enjoys shitting on young people.

[@terryfisher9645]

I can’t say he is on that subject… However, I do think he needs to think things through a little more, or talk it over with someone… If he’s having any reservations about what or how he’s going to do this or that… Burix

[@manganvbg90]

A smart thing to do is to cut a peek hole throught the sheet to the engine so you atleast can check level without popoing the fender. And underneath the transmission tunnel, please cap it of on that side aswell. That ledge you left can gather dirt/water. Perfect rust preventer

[@muskokamike127]

I wouldn't go too far with welding up that plate until you get the seats and stuff in. You might want to build an armrest or modify it to make it more comfortable to use.

[@philtucker1224]

I think he welded it all during this video?

[@muskokamike127]

@@philtucker1224 Yeah I saw that, I was just commenting on it not being a great idea at this point. He could put weld through primer on it until he moves into the interior. I've built enough things from scratch to learn that you don't button up one thing until you finalize that aspect. You end up with a bunch of things "for now" but as you progress, the for nows become forevers lol.

[@philtucker1224]

@@muskokamike127 too true buddy…

[@clintprice2123]

I admire your enthusiasm and ambition, there are things that you were doing that will cause a problem in the future. The steering and brakes are two of the most important parts of a car and you seem to be putting yourself in a precarious situation. The clutch, brake and accelerator pedal have to go in a traditional locations they must also be built with components that are legal for the road , are you aware that for example the metal used for the brake pedal is a special steel so that when you stand on the brakes they can’t bend, certain things aren’t just made however they want, it is mandated by law. How do you plan to be actuate the master cylinder ? Your steering is another item you don’t want to make any unnecessary joints or connections and your headers may be in the way there too. Can you find a known fabrication shop and find out what’s doable, allowed or a definite no in your plans? I want to see this come together but most importantly you and any passengers as well as other drivers being safe. In a collision (may it never occur) you need to be able to walk away. You’re nowhere near usable breaks, steering or a functioning clutch. Please take one step at a time. Wishing you well on this but one other thing, it’s very obvious that many posts are but very young viewers who absolutely have no clue what they are talking about. Just because they say so means zero. Can your father at least inspect it and deem it roadworthy or anyone he knows? Good luck, life is a continuing learning process.

[@TheOriginalLugnuts]

I see so many problems with how so many KZbinrs do things these days. They don’t have the experience, knowledge or the engineering background to do things properly but they get views and likes so they continue. I think he should have used a hydroboost setup and installed the setup on the other side of the fender. The master cylinder isn’t even angled like it’s designed to be.

[@Insightlyapp]

None of this is true. In a lot of cars the brake and accelerator pedals are made of aluminum.

[@sjv6598]

@@Insightlyapp but not just aluminium bar bought from a metal supplier, they are usually forged which adds strength and rigidity.

[@angryyank]

@@sjv6598 Technically thats incorrect....They aint forged.... The aluminum ones are billet there chief

[@davidmathley5877]

Now how are you going to mount the clutch pedal now that you mounted the brake booster where the clutch should be ?

[@theroofer3181]

Cut the existing brake pedal, add a few pieces to move it to where you want it and weld. Very easy fix. Just need to make sure you maintain the same leverage that the factory pedal uses.

[@muskokamike127]

I JUST posted this: many vehicles have a central shaft that the clutch and brake rotate on. The beauty is you can move them left or right to get them in the optimal position. Some have the shaft at the top and the pedals hang off it, or like in a VW bug, they're mounted at the bottom. socalautoparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/113798900-300x300.jpg

[@funguy3657]

Haha u said a bee 🐝 just tryed to bite me!!! 😂 u crack me up that’s why I watch all your videos just a down to earth dude who is building some sweet rides !!! Love what u do bro keep the content coming 🙂

[@muskokamike127]

Tech Tip: if you drill a hole using a hole saw too small, you can gang up the next size on the mandrel with the smaller one and use it to guide the bigger one. This doesn't work on the cheapo mandrels but does on the better ones by bosch, Milfuckee etc.

[@TheOriginalLugnuts]

Good tip!

[@MegaGsizzle]

Nice to know! ✌🏼✌🏼

[@billjohnson2000]

I can use that tip! Thanks

[@CrankAddict]

excellent!

[@Kevin-go2dw]

Or use a step drill.

[@tomswindler64]

I’ve always have been impressed with your ingenuity.you do not disappoint, just make sure, you check it twice and build it once.keep doing what your doing and carry on 👍👍👍😎😎😎

[@rayshutsa6690]

I like where you put the break booster. It will help make the engine bay look clean. I really like what you have done to the Mustang. I am really enjoying your channel and content. ❤🇨🇦

[@kudaa8969]

love how indepth your videos are and the explanation for everything you are doing or not going to do. keep it up!

[@keitht7546]

The master cylinder is made to mount direct to the booster not with the wall separating the two pieces that will make the pin from the booster to short to activate the brakes fully.✌🏽

[@kstricl]

Fun Fact - most boosters can be adjusted to accommodate different brake masters, so he can adjust for the .064" of extra travel.

[@bryduhbikeguy]

It doesn't matter.He has to move it all anyway.If it were Automatic it may be ok,but there's NO fricking Clutch Pedal space.(He may have chewed lead paint,Shhh,someone will help)

[@bigbrotherkenny]

Don't forget that tires kick up rocks and sand and other road debris. You're going to want some wheel wells to protect your break master cylinder. Good job keep it up 👍👍

[@TazR6]

Hear that booming when you tap the transmission tunnel? Multiply that across the whole car, and imagine how it will rattle, vibrate and boom when you drive it. You will soon regret not adding contours to the sheet metal.

[@mattcurtis6481]

Great job Ben! It’s coming along nicely. Take your time, brakes are important keep up the good work 👍👍👍

[@jbrinTexas]

You can buy billet aluminum brake fluid relocation cups for street rods. I’ve used them when mounting the booster/master under the floor. The cups mount up on the firewall or inner fender and are connected to the master with braided lines.

[@rbc5878]

I’ll be watching how this all finishes out Ben, keep on keeping on!

[@ronwatson4902]

You are doing an awesome job on building this Mustang. Great progress and ideas and I'm loving every minute of it. Have a great weekend!

[@furiouswolf777voodoo4]

Hope you have roon for headers (drivers side) looks tight 😎 Good luck bro

[@willmatic84]

I loving the progress on this project 🙌 and your doing really good with making the video on your own 👌🏽 keep it up we will be watching and supporting you 😀 👍

[@Avi8tor857]

Putting the brake booster in with the sheet metal between the master and booster changes the pin engagement depth. That pin will need a spacer the same as the thickness of the metal. The 1/16 thickness of the metal will cause 1-2 inches of the pedal feeling soft. I know this from mixing parts over the years. You will also likely want a bracket on the inside of the car to reinforce the pedal to booster mount when you off set the pedal it it will torque it more.

[@Avi8tor857]

"brake booster pin spacing" is the phrase that will get you to the article, would like to send a link but youtube instantly deletes the comment if I try.

[@rgreer3377]

Might want to look at your exhaust route before heading forward on the steering shaft build.

[@brianmef71]

A Ford engineer is probably watching this and thinking "what the?" 🤔😮

[@Mdunning]

Great progress. I would build a plate to cover the break lines from rock chips damage kicked up from the wheels. Last thing you want is to loose your brakes at 100mph! 😀

[@williamlambert352]

Very good job on Ford Mustang fastback v8 6 speed manual 👍👍👍👍👍

[@davidowen888]

I also am an advocate of use what you got, once used a washing machine to make dodge ram floor board truck was white so the paint even matched 😄

[@7HeadsCustoms]

Ok. Couple of issues: 1. Need to install exhaust manifolds/ headers before finalizing the steering 2. Move brake booster under dash, master cylinder into engine bay. 3. Put clutch master cylinder where brake is currently. This will solve a lot of problems I see coming with your design. You can’t extend the brake to the middle and then have clutch cross brake, there will be interference. Design 3 times, measure twice, cut once…

[@M1LAD81]

Great to see some more stang content, Ben. One thing though, maybe I'm wrong your brake pedal looks too high. Also always remember A, B and C Accelerator, Brake and Clutch. It always goes in that order, just like the alphabet, easy way to remember. Keep on rolling out that content though!

[@josephducati8471]

I love watching you work on this mustang I can't wait to see you when it's done I love watching your brother too on his channel I'm glad to see you younger guys in the cars take it I am 65 I've been in the cars all my life and worked on them

[@GSXR13K]

Cleetus McFarland Racing / Motion Raceworks could get you brakes fast. My bet they would overnight you some on the low low to sport the TBM brand on your channel.

[@MrKennyanders]

we love these creative fabrication videos

[@justatim8143]

Stones can fly up and put a hole in the brake lines so I would use a wheel well liner to block stones.

[@waltergaffney5024]

....or the tire blows out and takes out the Master cylinder.

[@JMRRebuilders]

BRO IM DYING a bee just tried to bite me. That is gold. Good stuff good progress cant wait to see how you adapt that pedal. KEEP GETTING AFTER IT

[@_donottello5932]

Bro why was i just crying laughing at that part too🤣

[@JMRRebuilders]

@@_donottello5932 not sure but Def got me.

[@davidg2073]

The gear lever shroud and booster protector are frigging awesome and the quality of the fabrication matches perfectly with the gearbox crossmember. As for the brake booster where else would you put the master cylinder and reservoir but under the fender. Cant wait to see where the exhausts exit.

[@burntnougat5341]

The ol cardboard assisted design is the shit

[@davescheer5038]

Ahhh, hey Ben I’d just move the brake booster over we’re it’s supposed to be and then you have room for the clutch booster on the left , otherwise your just creating problems , plus it’s all hard to get to if you need to add fluid later , design flaw, just set one of the old seats in to line up the steering column , 🤔

[@RogerM88]

You should used the front section from a more recent Mustang gen, including firewall, wheel wells, aprons and shock towers. And custom it to fit in this gen Mustang. You would have a lighter, and safer front section. Plus more easy access to replaceable parts, as suspension components.

[@muskokamike127]

So maybe you should start your own build and show him how it's done? BTW: it won't fit, the new front clip is wider than the 65. DOH

[@RogerM88]

@@muskokamike127 did you missed the part "custom it to fit"? This project is steering into a mess, with comments as yours, padding his back instead of proper guidance. For a reason Automakers avoid using flat panels, and apply crumple zones. Here in Europe, doubt this car would pass a road inspection.

[@waynespyker5731]

My Remark back on the first Mustang months ago. Go outside, measure, create a CAD template off the red firewall. Instead created battleship strength brackets/mountings only to have the build discarded! Everyone wants him success.

[@RogerM88]

@@waynespyker5731 Using CAD draws would preferable. But even without using it, he could just use a white board, drawing the plans of build. And avoid building too much custom section from scratch, modding instead parts already available and tested.

[@RogerM88]

@@waynespyker5731 as an example to this build, he should firstly replaced with OEM parts, all the burnt section or damaged. Then retrofit the shock towers and firewall of a more modern Mustang, to fit the new sub-frame, engine and gear box. I'd also consider building an inner roll cage, flushed to the body shell to improve rigidity. All the suspension components would be OEM, improving the building process time frame and further maintenance. Not a surprise if he starts to claim being burnt out again with this new build, with so much custom work. That's why he should instead restore the Mustang, and rebuild the engine.

[@RogerM88]

To easy the filming and editing process, you could use the "PapadakisRacing" channel method. Place cameras around the shop. And then in the editing phase, do a more in dept and detailed narration of the build process.

[@punkinsgarageandpaint8299]

Very good ideas going on here! !! The HONDA parts are smart. Plus that's HOT RODDING. USING WHAT YOU GOT. FORGET ABOUT HATERS. THE BRAKING SYSTEM IS SO EXPENSIVE.. YOU. SAID IT BEST. THESE PARTS WORK GREAT FOR HONDA.

[@CrankAddict]

I feel bad that I can't stop watching these vids. It's like seeing a traffic accident in slow motion. If the 3rd mustang ends up going in the bin as well, at least you're getting tons of views and making money!

[@bryduhbikeguy]

It's like watching a video of a blind person walking towards an open sewer...you keep hoping someone will step in front before,but there's a deep fog...

[@hvt8147]

Painfully satisfactory 😂

[@sjv6598]

Car crash tv. You know you shouldn’t laugh when the mustang hits a crowd but you can’t help laughing? The first mustang ended up in the weeds as scrap, this one will follow eventually.

[@royeyk]

Love that ad hoc engineering. Car can get interesting to drive.

[@WhittyPics]

You want to get that brake petal to the right of the clutch. You work the clutch with the left foot and the brake with the right

[@eddieconquest6018]

while doing your steering shaft dont forget the manifolds an exhaust pipes that will be running in the same place not trying to sound negitive just trying to help out

[@torlandmusiq]

Great point

[@teamdirewolves2447]

My question is how do you refill the brake fluid or check the reserve tank level? It is better to expand only a part of the sidewall and put the brake pump under the bonnet so that you can check it every time you open the hood and it is good for your peace of mind. Can you see it even if you have a fender liner? Well, I respect your judgment as it is your work.

[@melmcclure3710]

You’re fabricating skills are getting good. Mustang is coming along good.

[@HarryHasAbigWilly]

21:55 🐝 I'll get you next time!

[@trainmanbob]

It doesn't matter how long it takes providing it is safe, well built and exactly how you want it Ben. Awesome video as always.

[@Monkeezy]

Yes, manuals are fun to drive compared to automatics, but automatic has it's perks too. With automatic, it's better to have a relaxing drive in. But I would want that Mustang as a manual myself. But ppl should go with what they prefer. The Mustang is turning out amazing thus far.

[@tonyscherer8281]

Thank you for your inspiration it helps you work on my last project my 72 Maverick I’m a couple days from driving thanks again

[@sammydavis991]

USSR engineers would be proud of this build, comrade!

[@phillipward937]

Move the brake booster to where it's in line with the pedal, don't you still have a hydraulic clutch cylinder to install? If you keep the current position you'll have to relocate your clutch hydraulic cylinder, that's gonna be a real SOB. You need to rethink this whole thing.

[@MinDTraX]

I like these videos, way more work is being done instead of talking. Keep it up!

[@Smurphenstein]

I would be tack welding things in. Stuff like headers, etc need to go in so it is important to be able to modify or remove things. This sort of thing is real trial and error and to do it right you have to be ready to modify things down the line if something comes up you hadn't considered.

[@simonbinni5269]

Thanks for taking the time to record the build. Keep up the great work.

[@vindo3558]

Hard work pays with perfection

[@rajeevmasilamony8395]

Hey Vtuned I'm really liking how much progress you're making and how excited you are now that you've switched back to your old style of shooting vids. Glad to see you're enjoying your work again, keep the great content coming!

[@rabihmoumne]

The mustang looks amazing. I can't wait how will it look. Keep up the good work. You will have a problem when refilling the brake fluid in the future. The brake booster location should be in the engine bay and not outside.

[@RBCire]

3:15 "... the shifter is perfectly exactly ..." LOL 6:38 You put the brake pedal to the far left then pointed to the center when you mentioned the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal goes on the left and the brake pedal in the middle. But you already knew that, right? 7:37 Why dont you cut a hole in the top of the fender so you can fill the brake fluid reservoir? 11:51 and some primer ...

[@terrallputnam7979]

I was wondering how you were going to fix that clutch thing. I am glad you figured that out before going too far. The car is coming along nicely.

[@edwardsimmons3721]

Great content. Anytime it’s your first time there will be mistakes.

[@davidgleason6400]

Ben…I good idea for mounting points is to use rivet nuts…no need to weld a nut and or put nuts and washers on the back side of things. It has made my life a lot easier boss…take care and God bless…David.

[@CrankAddict]

My riv nuts always work themselves loose over time, which is a royal PIA. I prefer to weld.

[@garethedwards2883]

Your patience is amazing as it takes so long to rebuild a car, great series of vidoes

[@miguelmendez0126]

Mustang is looking sweet

[@andersonrodrigues5305]

Muito bom, uma pena que aqui no Brasil seja inviável um projeto desse , parabéns abraços!!!

[@igorvalerio4309]

enviar da pra enviar, o problema é o preço,

[@mikemiller8318]

Yes sir take your time figure it out. Good luck on this one 😎🔥👍🇺🇲

[@kukuipupule4415]

The Doh ! moments.... thats the entertainment value it s like watching bad chad ie brake system mismatched parts ...good luck

[@caseyandteresadolph1905]

Hey man you have to mount that reservoir directly to the booster that sheet metal in between is going to negatively affect your brake stroke. Ditch it and get a hydro boost setup

[@CrankAddict]

The master will actually work that way. He just needs to lengthen the pushrod .075", so it may not even matter. I thought it was pretty "smart" to separate them this way. He just screwed up on the execution. He should NOT cut the brake lever arm and should not z-bar it to move it over (high strength steel).

[@Thraser999]

Is it just me or are there some places with holes where the firewall isn't welded to the cowl? that thing might end up robbing some structural rigidity. BTW, cutting a hole on the side just to fit the brake booster seems like a way to take away even more of that, especially in a unibody...

[@tinutolat2433]

Nice to see update on it....

[@mattkubler5740]

You will need to lengthen the pin in the booster that goes into the master cylinder because the firewall is like a spacer so what ever the thickness of the firewall is the pin needs to be that much longer

[@davevaughn7399]

Can't wait to hear it run looking good

[@thomaspiini7981]

I’m enjoying this build. I haven’t read ALL of the comments so please forgive me if this has already been beaten to death. Please do make a strong guard to place between your master cylinder/brake lines and the tire. A blown front tire is scary. Parts of that blown tire taking out your brake lines is a disaster.

[@MegaGsizzle]

Definitely try to use the radiator and electric fans from the same year motor you have. Wiring will be easier

[@shadowwolf9854]

I would inbox the brake caliber so the tire dose not kick a rock up into it and reck the breaks and I would put a gas cover door on the fender to fill the break fluid lol like fill. Gas but break fluid but why to think on your feet keep. Up the good work

[@SuperTomcatUk]

Taking on shape the car is looking good....

[@geronimoagarraspito5174]

Hope my grandkids get to see the mustang finished 🙏 😆.

[@timmilner7587]

I love the work you do on your vehicles when are you going to do another video on your McLaren I see it's in the background all the time I'd like to see you drive it now and again keep up the good work

[@laserdogg1369]

interesting go cart project

[@AustinFerguson]

outside haters on the brake booster, just do quick pins on the fender and you can just do race car stuff on the fly and access the booster when you need it.

[@KENNEY1023]

Definitely a one of a kind Mustang. Goonsqaud Camero vs. V Tune's Mustang on the drag strip.

[@davehall6581]

Ben will have his mustang finished long before the clowns at goon’s get their Camaro even to a point it can run or drive. I don’t think the goon’s ever finish their projects 100%. They get them to test rip and then put aside to start a new project

[@davyboy380]

You have your work cutout for your self Nathan,your doing a great job mate,just plod on as the end is in sight..Good luck.

[@davyboy380]

@TELEGRAM 👉 vTunedGarage ,HI Nathan, I m not sure what I'm doing so DM is direct message? So I made the short list ,Great..In in with a chance .Thanks mate from Birkenhead Merseyside UK..

[@dogdoc1]

Don't rush through it. Go ahead and order the appropriate parts for the right vehicle, and use that wait time to re-evaluate your designs/plans or even work on another project to free your mind and thoughts to flow regarding the more challenging projects.

[@mickhamilton8385]

Fabrication Imagination, well done 👍.

[@rickbareman2263]

Keep up the hard work mustang build is taking shape and looking good, nice job on the brake booster installation and shifter also👍

[@jerrydawg4434]

Now when you blow the tire the debris will wipe out the brake lines at the same time.... thats a brilliant idea!

[@rogerthainesr.7002]

Nice job. Resto- Stang coming soon.👍

[@pedroduran8157]

Manual yeah! I Like it

[@crownhic6827]

Making progress. You’re in the groove.

[@markstangsn9518]

Maybe flare out your inner fender structure so the booster can be on the inside of engine bay for many reasons and is there exhaust manifolds on yet looks like that may be a issue.

[@norm302]

Having the brake pedal on the left is a great anti-theft device!

[@sjv6598]

😂😂😂

[@grem72mu]

What is up Benny....that brake pedal definitely needs relocating. It is where the clutch should be and as another viewer stated you need to research the engineering side of this installation and did you consider installing a rubber mount between tranny and crossmember for vibration and torque twist....just saying lol.still lovin the content bro love from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺

[@iggybatista8215]

I have really been enjoying your videos since you’ve been doing the new style filming

[@standavis7266]

1st thing when i turn on the computer...nice

[@BigBisalreadytaken]

Your videos are really good now. Keep up the good work!

[@MrHuismeester]

Step by step and it is looking more and more like a fast car !

[@bmjnk3]

chill with the spray paint