Installing the Scott Drake Adjustable Brake Pedal Rod and Maverick Master Cylinder Episode 220 Autor

[@richardwilliam3757]

Thank you for being so responsive to my questions, that makes for a good KZbin channel. Thank you!

[@AutoRestoMod]

You are welcome. I try and answer every question if I can.

[@mcinkyt]

In the opening clip I was waiting for Toonsis... Don't forget to tell viewers brake fluid will bubble the paint directly off ANYTHING

[@robertclymer6948]

Brake fluid is nasty stuff for sure. Cover those fenders boys and put rags under your Master Cyl and lines to catch all the drips.

[@williamcharles9480]

Great show, Jeff. I was wondering what you would do to get the old push-rod out. I see that you did exactly what I did. I used my old original push-rod that came with my 67 Mustang on the Granada disc master cylinder. Using the Granada M/S seems to work OK, but now I've got this urge to find out what the bore size is. Thanks a bunch.

[@rocky2000316]

Your videos always have great information and very informative. In Fords from the 60s, when brakes are full engaged what should the normal brake pedal height be from the floor?

[@speedoflife89]

You all do great work!

[@Rudderify]

Good stuff and thanks for the tips. I'm about to convert my '65 Mustang to a hydro-boost system so the measurement will come in handy. I'll shoot a how-to vid as well.

[@scottklusendorf5756]

Good vid, but skipped step of inserting new push rod. Does it just push in and click? I am not an expert, so every step matters. Don't skip anything.

[@outsidedog8205]

I just watched this whole video to see how ya put the pushrod in

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thank you I appreciate the support

[@reggiedavis5092]

Great videos I have a Ford Maverick 1971 I wanted to put a manual transmission in it but I can't find the clutch pedal where can I find one that will fit my car

[@robertclymer6948]

Hi Jeff! A six year old video and still pertinent today. When putting in the new Master push rod (actuator) with the clip end, do you just pinch the locking clip with a needle nose pliers and push it in until it locks? I never had one before. Thanks. Good fun work with the green screen, very cool! Cheers and blessings from Motown/Dearborn, home of Henry Ford and Ford Motor Co. World HQ. aka "The glass house"

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yes, I usually use players to pressure the retainer pin in.

[@robertclymer6948]

@@AutoRestoMod Thank you sir! Appreciate that.

[@btu91111]

Sooooo helpfull thanks. i am all into that because i will have to delete my power booster because it is not getting along with my EFI manifold i put in the 69 torino wagon yesterday . Am learning all about pedal ratio . Have you ever run into that and did you have to source the whole dang pedal assembly for non boosted 68-69 Fairlane ?

[@AutoRestoMod]

If it is like the Mustang, the pedal is different. There is a kit (again, for Mustang) that fixes the location issue that the pedal has. BUT as I said that is on Mustang. I'd hit the Torino Facebook groups and ask there.

[@wolfeman351]

I have a 1969 Mercury Cougar with 4 wheel manual drum brakes. First upgrade will be front disks. I have been told by the Cougar community no master cylinder change is necessary. However, you gave specifics for the bore of the 74 maverick master. Where did you get this info? I need to decide if my stock master will have the pressure needed when the conversion is done. Eventually I want 4 wheel disks but thst is quite a way off. When I do that upgrade, I do not want vacuum assistance. With the 3 speed and draw on motor vacuumed I don't have room for that huge canister nor want the eventual vacuum failure that all of them have. Any suggestions for an assisted system that does not use vacuum? Thanks much

[@AutoRestoMod]

wolfeman351 The Rock Auto site actually often lists the bore diameter on the page. We like the 1974 Maverick conversion in the wagon. Just be sure to order the one we specify in the about section (there are three master cylinders for the '74 Maverick). You will also need to research prop valves to make sure that you are getting proper distribution.

[@jeff95519]

wolfeman351 The master cylinder for disc brakes have a larger primary fluid reservoir due to the fact that as the disc brake pad wears the fluid will go down. Drum brakes have an adjuster to keep them at a constant gap but as you use up disc brake pad the fluid takes up the slack. You will need to change the M/C to a disc brake type.

[@TheAldenRay]

Hey Guys! Some time after posting this video, I remember seeing another one in which you addressed the pedal travel issue with the Scott Drake Adjustable Set A21161-DB. This moved the pushrod placement a little lower to correct the geometry. I can’t seem to find it. Do you recall this video and was it removed?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Might be another channel, I don't remember another video. Though I plan to do this to the F100.

[@richardwilliam3757]

What is the measurement off the floor for the gas pedal? I think mine is too high which will throw the brake pedal off also.

[@AutoRestoMod]

We really couldn't take that measurement because there was a big hole there LOL

[@richardwilliam3757]

I just got the Scott Drake pushrod yesterday and the 74 maverick master and I’m making this conversion this weekend thanks for the response

[@richardwilliam3757]

I want to change the brake light switch. My car was power disc, now with this conversion do I go with a "Manual brake" light switch? I can't see a difference between the 2.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Pretty sure they are both the same.

[@robertclymer6948]

@@AutoRestoMod Yes Jeff, they are the same sir.

[@karlx-1]

Nice green screen work kids!

[@AutoRestoMod]

Karl X We had a blast setting that one up.

[@mikeleider5706]

i have a 66 mustang gt that only came with manual brakes, so I got a booster kit from SSBC 17 years ago. I Put it on myself. It worked but never great. The brake is hard on emergency stops. It has an adjustable push rod, but I can never get the right amount - too long and brake is on all the time too short and there's no brake or hardly any., .It".not a vacuum problem either and I checked the check valve and the vacuum level which works. Also I have measured 18lbs of vacuum except when fast idle is on. when I called SSBC many years ago despite that they told me the kit it works with original pedal but then they started talking about pedal ratio which could be the problem. a few minutes ago I saw one of your videos (not this one) but now I can't find it. in that video where you had an adapter in the booster kit for the pedal (probably to correct the ration.) but I can't find that part anywhere. The 67- 70 kits come with a new pedal. I thinking that it I can't find that adapter getting the 67 kit with pedal or just the pedal if I can find the part. I might get the pedal for the 67 but I don't know if it will fit a 66 gt. I might go back to the original manual brakes but I like power better when it works good. Can you guys or anybody tell me the name of that part that goes on the pedal arm and where I can get. email me at [e-mail]

[@paulreason6485]

Is this what y'all did on the 4th?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Paul Reason Yep.