Installing your own radiant heat tubing in a concrete slab. (DIY METHOD)

[@Derekmartin20]

I did my 30x56 post frame home by myself. Did three zones 2 bedrooms and main living room and kitchen. 8" of compacted gravel base first then Vapor Barrier with 2" foam board taped seems on top then steel mesh . Put the plastic towers to raise the mesh. Zip ties for the oxygen Barrier tubing. Foam around edges. I run it with one instant water heater. It's the best heat I've ever seen in my life you can't get more comfortable heat. Going on two year's of comfortable bliss lol.

[@kyleliesener3982]

What kind of climate do you live in? I’m hoping to do the same, but we have pretty cold winters in Wisconsin.

[@Derekmartin20]

@@kyleliesener3982 Ohio, As long as you insulate the walls and ceiling your good. I have 8" thick walls with 2" of closed cell spayfoam insulation and the rest is blown in to fill the walls.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@Derekmartin20 awesome. Love the radiant heat in concrete

[@craigs7730]

Probably one of the best video explanations I've seen, great job. Keep it up, thanks.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Craig. Im glad you enjoyed it buddy. We will be doing more of these videos this spring after the snow melts. 👍😊

[@sethcook1649]

Thank you for putting this video out. I watched it and was able to figure out layout of the pex for my new garage after never having done it before. We are now ready to pour. Huge help! Thanks

[@bondobuilt386]

Thats awesome I am so glad the video helped ya. 👍 Good luck on thbe pour my friend. 😊

[@johnfloyd3184]

I find this video very helpful. I’m building a house and I’m wanting to put the radiant heat in the slab and so far this is the most informative video yet

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome John I will send you a link to another one that should be helpfull as well buddy. 👍😊

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5ike6CXnZWUpK8

[@coreymosley3534]

Thanks for taking the time to explain how you do your tubing layout...👍

[@bondobuilt386]

Corey I’m glad you liked it and your welcome 👍👍

[@barnandhome]

Just told a client today that he should go with radiant floor heat in a new half-court B-ball barn. For us here in the Mid-west - it's the best way to keep a barn nice and consistently warm in the winter. Thanks for the video!

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes absolutely. It gets plenty chilly in the mid west with that wind you get. I hunt there every fall. They will be glad they did the radiant. Follow my tubing layout system and it will be smooth going project. Any questions along the way give me a shout. 👍😊

[@reypolice5231]

@@bondobuilt386 I am in Pennsylvania and new to radiant heat. My build calls for a 4 inch slab. Should I make it thicker because of these tubes? If I don't will it causes cracks? What is the minimum thickness concrete for radiant heat?

[@bondobuilt386]

@@reypolice5231 Hi. You can pour your floor at 4" and it will be fine. Just be sure to put down 2" of closed cell foam under the concrete and it will be great. Don't use that insulation blanket under the concrete it won't heat well.

[@reypolice5231]

@@bondobuilt386 Thank for responding. Thanks for no insulation blanket. Do I try to pull up the wire mesh. It's just sitting on the insulation board and not in the concrete per se. Other videos from you talk about pulling up the wire mesh to get it into the concrete better.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@reypolice5231 We do not pul it up with the tubing in a 4" floor it will get damaged. We use fibers to strengthen the concrete.

[@portnuefflyer]

I got into rad floor heat 40+ years ago, pre YT ha ha, because it seemed the simplest way to heat! I didn't know how to bend tin/run ductwork, and sure didn't want to buy propane the rest of my life (no nat gas at my location) but i sure as heck could figure out how make water warm all on my own. Did so, with a homemade wood boiler, and hot water solar panels, still do to this day, 40 years of not buying propane every few months adds up! It always surprises me to see radiant floor heat described as complicated or hard to do.

[@moovin12]

When you tied your lines into your wood boiler do you need a pump to push the water/coolant through the lines? Or is there enough pressure created from the wood heat to just naturally cycle the water/coolant? Very interested in this concept I'll be building a 25x40 quonset hut building and this is how I want to heat it.

[@portnuefflyer]

@@moovin12 The water in the stove jacket, only about 20-30 gallons, is pumped thru a 60' loop of soft type K copper 1" tubing, that is immersed in the 200 gallon stainless tank. The floor water is supplied by the 200 gallon tank. That way, the stove can run "hot", hotter than I'd want to pump thru the floor. Do your homework on how to lay the tube/insulate the floor etc., and you can always play around with different, even multiple, ways to warm the water afterwards! Take it a step at a time in other words.

[@moovin12]

@portnuefflyer perfect thanks!

[@johnbabcock2925]

These are GREAT videos!! They give lots of practical information. Thank you for doing them!

[@bondobuilt386]

John awesome I’m glad you liked it buddy. Your welcome 👍👍

[@briant7067]

Bondo thanks for sharing and teaching! You are making the world a better place for others!

[@tomaskey6844]

I love this solution for ending and starting the next loop. Saves a lot of math!

[@deanharkin]

Great vid. I am helping a friend install a giant system 50 x 100 and this info will make things work A LOT better.

[@lewisklason3065]

Thank you for the excellent presentation. Sure does give me the confidence to do our own in floor heating

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome Lewis we have done 100’s of these floors and they work great. If your feet are warm its a game changer. 👍😊

[@barelystablefarm7151]

By far one of the best videos on DIY in-floor heat. As simple as it is, you drawing it on a piece of paper made it all come together for me. I do have a insulation question though, I have a 4 foot frost wall. Some advice I’ve gotten is to extend the side wall insulation all the way down to the footing. I’ve already backfilled and was planning on just going from grade to top of knee wall (it sticks up 1 foot above grade) and butt the floor insulation up against it. Your thoughts? I’m also a bit confused about the insulation at the garage doors. The walls drop down here, and the top of the wall is level with the rest of the dirt. Thanks for any tips!

[@bondobuilt386]

Yes I would do like you say no need to go down to footer.

[@VenturaIT]

@@bondobuilt386 Do these ever leak? If it leaks then you have to do what? Hammer out where you think it's leaking and then repair it? Can this radiant floor heat the entire living space alone or does it require another heat source in addition? Thanks!

[@MysteryScienceGaming]

@@VenturaIT Yes, these systems are the best and most efficient for heating your home.

[@michaelmann3636]

Great example and explanation, keep up the good work.👍

[@intrinsickle]

Just started watching your channel and very much enjoying it. Great detailed info!! Thank you.

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome. Glad you like it. Subscribe and hit the bell and you won't miss an upload. Thanks.

[@tommckinney3947]

Great video and explanations. Never thought about radiant heat in NC. Mostly us Heat Pumps.

[@bondobuilt386]

That would work good in your area. Tom. 👍👍

[@Charlieman.]

Damn good explanation in executing. Made it simple to understand. Thanks

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome 😎

[@awesumenergy]

Build a line spooler. You can do all of this work by yourself (one man team.) I made mine out of a couple scrap pieces of plywood with two ABS toilet flanges (adjustable ring) between them. One flange fits in the other to make your "Wheel". Use two 3/4" Black Malleable Iron Floor Flange Fittings and two 3/4" x 24" Black iron pipe nipples to hold the roll of Pex. Throw a 3rd piece of scrap plywood on top to hold it all down. Materials all available at HD or Lowes. Probably laid 300k feet of pipe in fifteen years with my 1st one. Retired it last fall and built a new one.

[@royordway9157]

Hi Ron, I love all of your videos. I try to be as practical as I can be, I think you do the same. I'm an old carpenter in Maine who had to retire for a few reasons. I want to install radiant heat in my house, no, not in concrete but under my floor. The Pex isn't that expensive, the heat source is and so are all of the other stuff to make it work "right". I like this approach to having one zone. I'm going to watch and re-watch your videos on radiant heating.

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYi6l3l7h56Gptk Hi Roy thanks for the comments This new video should be helpful to ya.

[@danacrook4203]

I saw a video with wire over tubing. This seems much better.

[@bondobuilt386]

Not sure how they tied the tubing up. Could do 2 mats one over one under?

[@nelsonjeffrey4104]

Thanks Bondo best explanation and video I’ve seen

[@bondobuilt386]

Jeffrey I’m glad you liked the video bud. Radiant heat is awesome thing to have in a house or shop. 👍👍

[@mikevon7858]

In this video , and this section , was that apartment section framed off, with interior partitions, my point is , I guess it is carefully measured , so the bottom plates anchors , do not hit , tubing, in one of your videos could you show this. - the drawing and explanation was fantastic great work ,, and thank you for taking your time out , to teach people , thank you so much , you are an asset to youtube,

[@kickinghorse2405]

Grateful for this presentation!

[@bondobuilt386]

awesome glad it helped ya.

[@bobmariano1695]

Awesome video ! ! Very informative & looks easy to do yourself after watching ! 👍👌

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Bob glad I could help ya buddy. 👍😊

[@bradmcmanis3231]

Killer Video scoped out some others u have done 👍👍👍 also I subscribed keep up Excellent work 👍👍👍

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Brad I'm glad you like the videos and subscribed. I appreciate that bud.

[@johnthieman7280]

I would really like to see a radiant system after completion (the heater, valves & manifolds)

[@bondobuilt386]

John. I will see if i can get that for you guys this fall. 👍

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gprHlJ93m5eCetE John here is my boiler set up as promised. 😊👍

[@bryancherry9253]

The diagram was big help. Thanks

[@tylerallsup]

Dude these are great videos. I like the Nick names Karl with a "k" and big biscuit.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Tyler. I try and make them educational but also fun to make and watch. Appreciate the comment bud. 👍😊

[@mehmet284]

great job ron

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks

[@truth7416]

Excellent teaching! Thanks!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks awesome I could help. 👍

[@jonressler9794]

MANY THANKS for sharing your expertise! MUCH appreciated! God bless!

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Jon God bless you as well 😊

[@robthompsonfarm3902]

This is an awesome video! Very helpful! Thankyou.

[@gadsdenconsulting7126]

Hey Bondo, if my new house (barndominium) is on a monolithic slab, should the sides of the slab go below frost line, and how many inches thick should the main pad be? (3", 4", 6"???) I'm also reading about studies that find the Pex should be about 2" from the top of the slab, rather than at the bottom of the slab for optimal efficiency. If thats the case, I'm concerned about relief cuts made after the crete has dried, cutting the Pex. What are your thoughts? Lastly, I'm considering using 3" polystyrene sheets (R19) on the bottom and sides of the monolithic slab. Is 3" overkill, or should 2" be used?? I'm right near Syracuse, NY. I know your time is valuable- thanks for any input, and thanks for everything you do for the little guy, that has to do it for himself!!

[@bondobuilt386]

Hi. The main pad should be 5-1/2 to 6" thick and the sides should be 12" thick. No need to go below the frost line. Protect the edge of slab with foam. The 3" foam would work great. Make sure it is closed cell polystyrene. Keep the tubing on the bottom and it will heat awesomely. I have done this about 100 times and in my own house as well. Works great.

[@gadsdenconsulting7126]

@@bondobuilt386 Thank you for your help!! I truly appreciate your time!!

[@gabedodson6378]

Hey Ron! New sub here. Thanks for the video, I'm staring down the wrong end of a big project and this helps a lot. Thanks again, and keep the great videos coming!

[@bondobuilt386]

Gabe awesome thanks for subscribing 👍 I got a few of the radiant tubing videos buddy. I’ll send you another that might help ya. 😊

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5ike6CXnZWUpK8

[@gabedodson6378]

Thanks, I really appreciate it!

[@bondobuilt386]

@@gabedodson6378 you bet. 👍

[@michaeleaston547]

Great video. Thank you. Good heat system too.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thank you 👍

[@douggibson9084]

Great job 👍, thanks for the instructions!

[@appl314]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. It has been a godsend especially through covid and has helped provide me with motivation!!!

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome I’m so glad my videos are helpful to you guys. Your very welcome buddy. And yes this COVID needs to go away. 👍

[@Whorabl3]

Incredibly helpful video, you got a new subscriber. I have a few questions I know you must be a busy man but I appreciate any that you can answer: 1. My project is going to have a concrete slab underneath it and/or possibly tile or linol (we're going over that stuff potentially with the concrete), I noticed you have some plastic sheets underneath your styrofoam, is that one of the requirements for sealing, or what exactly is it and why do you use it? Does it have to cover seamlessly or can it overlap? 2. The foam you use is just so you don't have to use as much concrete and to provide a half assed level surface to begin with I assume? Do I need the foam if I have a level surface already? 3. How do you do the pour side of things, do you use self levelling concrete? I'm wondering if I can do several pours layered on top of each other if necessary instead of just doing a big pour. 4. What's the minimum amount of concrete you need to have from top of pipe to floor (how big of a gap of concrete above pipe?

[@bondobuilt386]

Hi. The plastic is a vapor barrier to stop the slab from wicking up moisture. Yes you can over lap it. The foam is necessary to keep the heat in and going up into structure instead of down Ito the ground below. The concrete should be a minimum of 4" and leave the tubing down on the foam board. The foam board should be closed cell polystyrene and 2" is best but you probably would be ok with 1-1/2" if hight is a problem.

[@denisemarra6247]

I’m building a new house with in floor heating like this only I want to connect it to a new wood burning green efficient stove to be off grid and want to connect it to in floor heating system. How can this be done?

[@bondobuilt386]

Do you want to use a boiler? or just a wood stove?

[@denisemarra6247]

@@bondobuilt386 a wood burning stove to heat my in floor heat and a wood burner to heat my hot water system for the entire house. I’m also doing the same thing in a new barn/apartment.

[@greekmaster1001]

You should fill it with kryotech which is like a antifreeze but it's made for heating boilers

[@Wingnut_Stickman]

Here is an idea that occurred to me after doing 4 of these systems: Rather than split the room into 4 quadrants for example, and run one loop through each, have each loop run through the entire room, spaced 5 feet apart. That way, heaven forbid one of the loops gets compromised even years down the road, you can still heat the entire room (not just 3/4 of it) with the remaining three working loops. I also discovered that "keeping the loops the same length " was not a "down-to-the-inch" requirement, and in cases where you cannot do this, you can employ a flow reduction valve (not exaclty like a shutoff valve, but similar) to introduce extra restance and balance the flow. When tying loops down to the mesh, I use zip ties, loose at first, so I can adjust things in case the layout is upset for some reason, loose ties are tightened as the plan resolves. I also close the system and air it up to a pressure of 20 PSI and have someone watch the gauge to discover if someone punctures a tube, but in fact, it has never happened thatone was punctured.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thats a pretty good idea to space the tubing out like that in case of an issue down the road. Yes you are correct I think even 20 feet is close enough for tubing length I try and get it close so it balances itself. Shoirt cheap copper headers is all you need. We have never punctured a tube in over 100 radiant slabs. I used to tie tubing loose with ties also but now I do my backwards trick from the manifold when getting close to where I want to be. Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it. 👍😊

[@Wingnut_Stickman]

@@bondobuilt386 You are welcome.

[@papabear6092]

Is the 400ft due to the ability of the circulation pump? So if you run 3 400ft loops you gotta have 3 circulation pumps?

[@Wingnut_Stickman]

@@papabear6092 naw, one pump is fine. I have three zones with one pump on each pushing through 5 and 6 "loops" of 250' each.

[@kennelson5096]

Laying the pex is easy. setting up the boiler is the head scratcher

[@mr.wizeguy8995]

Counter flow layout gives most uniform heat on floor. Serpentine layout what you are using is uneven it's warmer on other end where water starts flowing hot into pipe. But does it matter on barn nope. But on residential house i would only use counter flow layout.

[@jonressler9794]

THANKS Bondo!! Do you have a video on the simple header for this type of self balancing system and related water heater once it’s complete? We followed your Pex layout and it was easy. Now we’re ready to get it all connected and operational Thanks!!!

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gprHlJ93m5eCetEsi=0SOVLU0sUKn7tlFa Glad the tubing video helped ya.

[@garywallace9182]

Great video. I think I've watched all your videos. I do have a couple questions. I've heard the wire mesh doesn't do any good if it's not pulled up into the concrete. I've also seen guys using the staplers to attach the PEX to the insulation. Will the PEX still heat properly if it's at the bottom of the slab? Would it be better to use the mesh and pull it up as the concrete is being poured with the PEX attached? Just want to get the most efficiency out of the in-floor heat. Any thoughts? I'm planning on 4" concrete/4000# mix. Thanks for all you do for us first timers!

[@bondobuilt386]

It works real good on the bottom of the concrete. Do NOT pull it it up or it will get damaged and you will get a leak in your system. I have never damaged a line or had a leak in 15 years of pouring radiant slabs.

[@wakeup6910]

Yep, answered that question, liked and subscribed 👍

[@bondobuilt386]

Awesome thanks 😊

[@Darkmaster_69]

Awesome explanation! Thank you

[@bondobuilt386]

You bet Mitch 👍😊

[@joeyrutherford1790]

Thank u so much I'm doing a 80 x60 shop great work my friend

[@tsaipod]

Best video on pex ever

[@mdoneg]

New sub. I want to build my own garage / shop with an apartment upstairs. Its in the mtns of Colorado. The main house already has radiant heat and it’s amazing. Want to do the same and have a heated garage. Excited to watch your channel.

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks for subscribing Michael.Sounds like a sweet project bud. Hit me up if you have any questions. 👍😊

[@helenspindler4576]

Thank you for a very informative video. It’s my first video watched about this system and I’m yet to learn more. What is the thickness of the poured concrete on the in floor heat?

[@bondobuilt386]

5-1/2" thick thanks.

[@mrkrause3]

I keep watching your guy roll the tubing out and I’m thinking of a un-spooling cart for that task. Have you thought of this or is there already something built for that? I recently bought a custom reel for romex electrical cable, and it’s the first time over 30 years of doing electrical work that I can pull wire neatly by myself. Y’all are doing great though!

[@bondobuilt386]

Ken the guy rolling the tubing is me. LOL They do make a un spooling reel for tubing but I think its easy with good help to just roll it out. We are fast at putting tubing down. Thanks for the comments 👍😊

[@glenndaugherity6187]

Great video ! I think a 1200 sq ft apartment would be enough for me lol !

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks Glenn

[@quackaddict2203]

If a gal wanted to do radiant in-floor heating in her concrete basement, could I not lay down aluminum (like emergency blanket type stuff) and then run the tubing, and then more concrete on top? I've got the clearance. Ceiling height in my basement is 8'6"... Thoughts?

[@bondobuilt386]

You could lay 1" to 1-1/2" closed cell foam on top of your floor then wire mesh and the tubing and then pour 3" of concrete on top. anything less then the 1" and it would loose a lot of heat to the old floor. If head room is good go with the 1-1/2" foam.

[@bobpiatt3534]

What about antifreeze? Obviously this seems to be the best and cheapest way to do this Ive seen! Nice work

[@jimanderson4495]

Just wanted to wish and the Boyz a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. I have an idea…. For New Year’s Eve… you and your crew make some of those famous rebar protectors.

[@devanporter821]

probably should have ran the first circuits on the perimeter and worked inwards. perimeter is always coldest. thats why my house bathroom is always cold, they didnt run in the perimeter first.

[@bondobuilt386]

Sounds like they may have skimped on insulation as well.

[@swss12]

@@bondobuilt386 I’m not sure. My house has 1” xps but I would probably go to 2” to get the R12 equivalent.

[@Hofermanladies]

Bondo is there a video that follows this one up and teaches us everything we need to know to hook it up to a water heater

[@icarossavvides2641]

I'm astonished how thin the floor insulation is compared to UK building requirements.

[@marklamberson4131]

Just found your channel. I’m doing my research on radiant floors. I want to do something similar. Living quarters next to a shop with heated floors throughout. My question is how do you do walls and a car lift on top of a heated floor? How thick is the slab? Do you worry about driving a nail and hitting a tube when anchoring the bottom plate of a wall? You can’t glue the bottom plate can you? I assume even though the floor is insulated you would still need treated lumber and that rolled out foam under the bottom plate? If so I don’t see how to avoid nails and the possibility of hitting a tube. I haven’t decided between a 4 post and a 2 post lift. A 4 post could just be set and not anchored. But a 2 post would need anchor bolts. Would you lay out your tubing and just avoid where you plan to have the lift? Thanks Mark

[@nicorizzo3607]

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!! I Don't need to put stone down first?? I can go right on compacted soil?

[@zakaroonetwork777]

Thanks Man. Hope people get my Joke about the 6’ ladder. 😊

[@marksjunction69]

I am curious why you wouldn’t run 4 - 300 ft loops to avoid the 200 ft of waste off the 1000 ft role? What is the optimal cover?

[@dang6832]

Nicely done. Just a simple question if I may. Why would you not do the first run on the perimeter to have the higher heat near the edges? My mind says this would warm the perimeter best to make the rooms more comfortable. I have no experience with this heating but hope to someday have radiant heating in a house and garage in Kentucky or Tennessee. Thanks…

[@bondobuilt386]

I like to keep the heat in the concrete it will try and escape to the cold if put by the edges.

[@dang6832]

@@bondobuilt386 thanks. Sounds reasonable.

[@bondobuilt386]

@@dang6832 No problem 👍

[@nicorizzo3607]

Hey , do you like the mesh wire plastic chairs. To raise the wire and tubing up a little.? .

[@maylaforcebewithu]

Is using 3/8 tubing out of the question? I want to install over existing floor and already have less than 8ft ceilings. I need to keep the increase in floor elevation as low as possible.

[@bondobuilt386]

I never have tried using 3/8 tubing. So I can't advise it. The insulation will take up the most room so you could put thinner layer of closed cell spray foam down instead of the 2" board foam but don't skimp on insulation or it will cost a fortune to heat.

[@maylaforcebewithu]

@@bondobuilt386 Without question I would use 1/2 in a new project, but I'm planning a retrofit over exist floor. I currently have only 89 inches...so. every 1/4 matters when it comes to my doors (walkout basement). I've seen 3/8 used for hot water lines because of increased velocity I just don't know how that would translate to radiant heat system. I only get one shot to get it right. My current strategy is to groove the floor with a $150 wall chaser if it goes reasonably fast or rent a walk behind if I can run more than one blades.

[@Honda1k]

I'm having a pole building built and I was talking to the contractor and said I wanted to do radiant flooring heat they told me I had to do it myself before the concrete pour layind the tubing myself my question is what would you do if you were planning on putting two or three car lifts in the building. It's a six inch pour.

[@bondobuilt386]

Plan exactly where the lift posts will be and draw yourself a map of the locations. Make that area about 12" thick and around 2.5' X 2.5' square. Do not put the tubing in those squares. Take a video also of the locations or pictures with measurements. Then instal lifts after the concrete has cured for 3 weeks to a month.

[@justincarroll9989]

Bravo... thank you for your time

[@ttyler3909]

Great video

[@bondobuilt386]

Thanks. 😀

[@bluegorillacookies]

Super helpful, thanks!

[@Hyper_Driven]

Can you review different systems like Uponor?

[@dfhunter78]

can yo upost some amazon links please if you can. items you would recommmend on suppply list i am looking at redoing a recreational room that was added on and do concrete self leveler to do epoxy floor coating, and found this video on radiant heating, you made it easy to seem capable, but my floor already done built 20 years ago i am converting to new full kitchen.

[@jstersam3676]

hey great video thanks . i am pooring 30x40 . how many zones? how acurate does the length of the loops have to be ? . . what stile of manifold? and any other advice would be great thanks

[@truth7416]

I was just wondering why you wouldn't pull the mesh up into the concrete? Doesn't it have to be in the middle of the concrete for strength? I am about to do a floor and would really like to know the reason not to. Also I see others do a pressure test on the tubing as they pour. Is that not neccessary? Is there different qualities of tubing what do you recommend? Really appreciate your videos. Thanks and hope you can find the time to help me out with information.

[@mloveless35]

Hello sir. I’m a subscriber and have watched most of your videos. Enjoy them. Keep up the good work. Have few questions I’m putting radiant heat in my 2000 square foot home. 40x50 Do you recommend stapling the tubing to the foam insulation then placing grid mesh on top or another way? Also I’m thinking I will have 8 ins and outs for my loops in floor. Do you have recommendations for water heater and pump setup ? Thanks

[@plottchaser]

I have an outdoor wood boiler. It is an open system. I have room to add a heating coil in the boiler. Will it need a holding or pressure tank?

[@chinster1611]

Thank you for this great video. I will be building a 48 x 30 pole barn and plan on using this method to heat it. I was curious what diameter tube you are using? Maybe you mention in the next video but if not can you please tell me about the rest of the system, pump, heater, etc.... Im going to keep watching just in case you already covered it.

[@bondobuilt386]

Hi there. The tubing is 1/2 “ oxygen barrior pex tubing. you can order it online at Supply House. There are many ways you could heat the water but a 50 gallon stainless steel gas water heater is my favorite. The HTP Phoenix light duty is about the best for the price. We use Taco 009 pumps for most systems we set up. 👍👍

[@thomasj396]

@@bondobuilt386 where is the best place to buy a htp water heater? does it produce alot of condensation?

[@amandadavis9726]

What supplies the water through the tubing? This seems like something that an outdoor wood boiler would be able to heat.

[@holeshot08]

great videos! I am doing a 36x40 barn. 1450 sq ft, based on what I am learning from you...3/ 500' loops of 1/2" pex will work fine. could you tell me which header/manifolds and pump with accessories I need? Thanks for what you do here! please and Thank You for any help!

[@NONAME-s3j3h]

I live in Ca and always see the concrete poured directly on compacted soil, is that foam board under the wire mesh and why is it used? ty.

[@bondobuilt386]

It's 2" closed cell foam and it is there to make the heated concrete not loose heat to the ground.

[@tacosforus1688]

Good work!

[@jonressler9794]

@derekmartin20 - can you share pics of the completed header and heater set up? Thanks!

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gprHlJ93m5eCetEsi=0SOVLU0sUKn7tlFa

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppfbXmWdobqkaaMsi=EccYpXB0PexvGCp6

[@ricksmith9910]

This is awesome!

[@aarongriffin6799]

Thank you for the great videos ... I like the straight-forward explanations. I'm working on building a 36x80 barndominium currently in western NY. I've seen so many different opinions and approaches to concrete thickness and mesh/rebar. I like that you are also in the NY region and trust that you build based on what has worked year after year. I notice you lay down the mesh before the tubing. Can you explain why you go that way ... is the mesh for strength or just to hold the tubing down? Also, I'm planning to go 4" thick with my concrete ... does that sound good to you, and if so, what PSI concrete would you use? My garage area will only have normal everyday vehicles in it.

[@juanrotten556]

4” is light I’d do 5.5” just using 2x6 forms

[@alexbartolo337]

Greetings my friend... It have to always divide in 3 sections and make it equal

[@kevintimm-u6w]

Definitely a good video. We're working with a company in Vermont and they want me to use 7/8 pex instead of a smaller size and use 16-18 inch centers. What are your thoughts on these specs? We're using an outside wood boiler to heat the water. We're in TN.

[@bondobuilt386]

If it was me I would just run the 1/2" oxygen barrier pipe on 1 foot centers and keep the runs around the same length. No longer than 500foot loops and it will work awesome but make sure to use 2" of closed cell polystyrene foam under the concrete.

[@ShawnBatt]

Is the wire mesh basically just for affixing the tubing at this point? With fiber additive, you don't need it for concrete strength, right?

[@bondobuilt386]

That is true Shawn. If you wanted more reinforcement put some over the tubing bud. 😊

[@Markatmjm1974]

Thank you for the video! Very helpful👍 I’m about to pour my basement floor 2400 SQ with radiant tubing. I have my 2” GAF R-10 25 PSI foam down and tubing down just like you show on the video. Question is since it keeps raining every evening and I want to pour on Thursday is it ok if I have little water under the foam . I can’t pump it completely out . I just walk on it and where I feel it has water under it I make a small opening in the foam and vacuum it out as much as possible. But I’m freaking out since I don’t know how much water can there be under the foam at lower spots 1/8” 1/4”? Please let me know what’s your take on it? I learned how to build with nadura ICF Thanks to your videos... Thank you!!!

[@bondobuilt386]

Hi Mark. Great to hear that my videos helped you build your own basement. That’s awesome. A little water under the foam board won’t hurt the floor any. Pour it at a low slump like a 5” slump and you will be fine. I’m assuming no more then 1/4” under there. Good luck buddy 👍👍

[@ericfraser7543]

I heard you are supposed to keep your runs to 300 FT, should have run 4 300ft loops instead of 3 400ft runs would have been less waste of your roll too.. otherwise you are right, you made it look easy...

[@jrace2718]

Curious, why didn't you use three 333ft loops to evenly use the 1000ft instead of having 200ft left on a roll? I really like these videos you put up. Thank you!

[@bondobuilt386]

Glad you like tghe videos. 😊. Each section was 40X30 so it was 1200 feet of tubuing per section. In concrete you want 1 foot of tubing per square foot of concrete. The wire mesh is on a 6 inch grid so we run it everry other grid and its spaced at 1 foot. I’ll send you another video that explains it better. 👍

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5ike6CXnZWUpK8

[@benspeakman2623]

couple questions. the wire mesh sits right on the insulation? Also how do you do relief cuts in the slab ?

[@kenmcnulty7018]

What do you use to heat the water? Can you simply use a hot water heater? Is there any reason that wouldn’t work?

[@bondobuilt386]

You can use a gas water heater or any type of boiler.

[@danielgulotta2252]

Would have been nice if you showed how you prepped the floor for the pex. You're right, running the pex is the easy part, but getting it ready for the pex is a little more involved than unrolling some pex.

[@bondobuilt386]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJSloYemg92hm6s here is the prep video. Should be very helpful

[@andreyk.8036]

What kind of temperature prob do you bury in to the concrete, or do you just use a wall thermostate for temperature control of the area?

[@mycowboyways915]

How do you anchor your walls in the apartment end without puncturing your radiant pex ?

[@richis2fast4u]

AMAZING video, thanks for sharing!! So just to clarify, if you have 1 foot spacing, you will use 1 foot of tubing per sq foot? And is there concerns about longevity of this system to leaks or other failures? It seems like there's no repair once the concrete is poured.

[@GoldsConcrete]

We wish more people looked into adding some heating elements to their basement jobs we do, the end result can make a huge different on the comfort of your basement !

[@bondobuilt386]

Absolutely and I think the same about a garage or shop. 👍

[@TheSmokinRedneck]

After years and years of use. Since it’s concrete over the tubing is there a chance for failure? Im assuming so. But how would you repair? It seems expensive to find leak and fix.

[@toddt8446]

The walls are in my pole barn. I would like to run the foam down below 2 feet. Do you have a video showing how that was done?

[@bondobuilt386]

No sorry we don’t run the foam down deep like that. Its just the thickness of the slab around the edges and under the slab 2” of polystyreen.

[@jasonbreding7905]

Could you give us an estimate of the total cost per foot vs just pouring a regular basement floor please … I am taking a very old basement out and I believe I should do this and I think it would heat the whole home above … old raised ranch and the basement is approximately 720 sq ft

[@bondobuilt386]

You should only need 15 sheets of 2" polystyrene foam at say $50 a sheet tops. $750 and a 1000 foot roll of oxygen barrier per tubing at $250. So for $1000 you can have the tubing in there and ready. Seems like a no brainer bud.

[@darrinstone49]

How do you calculate what lengths of tubing for the square foot of flooring.