Insulated Concrete Slab with Radiant Heating | Max Maker Dream Workshop Ep.4

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[@SA-76234]

Well you are the definition of what the saying here in the USA “German Quality”. Looks fantastic and very thought out. You should be very proud. And I am sure you are. Thanks for sharing.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thank you! I am very happy with the built so far, but its also a bit worrying to spend this kind of money.

[@ryanoverlay4592]

@@MaxMakerChannel Are you comfortable sharing the total cost at the end of the project or is that too private?

[@SA-76234]

Well you built it to last and that will save you money in the end.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Its estimated to about 800.000€. 200 of that is the property alone.

[@madmax]

19:57, that was trippy, looked like the pipe was growing.

[@alexaandrei7884]

Water level going down !

[@gunnerschwieterman6383]

@@alexaandrei7884I think he knows that a water drain drains water😂😂

[@JSTARandom]

I read a lot of comments written by experts in these areas, so I just want to mention that there are also teenagers watching and enjoying this. I learnt a lot through your videos, and even if I probably never need this knowledge, I love it.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Glad you enjoyed it! I started watching DIY videos around 2008 when I was a teenager. I learned so much from people like Jimmy Diresta, SV Seeker or Matthias Wandel.

[@Tyler-789]

Jimmy Diresta is the man!

[@von1477]

@@MaxMakerChannel ah matthias is the goat!

[@sinphony9835]

I am LOVING this series, Max! I also love the longer video format! Looking forward to more in the future.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Will do! Thanks for watching!

[@samuelbeckett4632]

Thanks; really appreciate the detailed explanations for all the various processes. Looking forward to seeing it all completed 👍

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thanks for watching!

[@mitchell6679]

Great job, really well made video too. I like how much of a straight forward person you are, no BS when being asked about costs for example. Would love to see this in person. Warm regards from the Netherlands

[@Lexaire]

This project has been amazing to watch! Thank you so much for sharing it!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thank you for watching! I get very nice comments like yours, but the views are small compared to my other videos.

[@LuckyRubb3rDucky]

Wow, just wow! I wish we had this level of construction in the USA! That foundation looks like it will last forever. Truly amazing engineering overseas.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

The US construction is certainly cheaper upfront. Its a different way of thinking. Not necessarily bad. Right now we have a housing crisis here. But the requirements for new construction stay very high. The 25k that I payed for planning permits would be the same for a regular home.

[@Kapil-Patel]

Always exciting to see a notification from you Max, thanks for sharing. Amazing build ! 👍🏽

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thanks for watching!

[@Mountain-Man-3000]

That concrete polishing was crazy!

[@chrispy3866]

Happy to see a new full length video. Coming along well! It must be VERY expensive!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I like to make full length, but this workshop series gets very little clicks so far. The build is expensive for sure. Before the pandemic it would have been so much cheaper!

[@MarekVacek]

​@@MaxMakerChannel Make these videos shorter and post more of them more regularly. I know you want to keep it information-dense and informative, but more of shorter videos are just much better for monetisation.

[@AllanElkaim]

I really enjoy your videos, can't wait for the next one !

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thanks for watching!

[@celo2043]

Thank you for sharing this process! It's so interesting and educational, I love it!

[@kameljoe21]

Super! I like that foam boarder. That is quite cool. Watering and keeping the concrete cool is really key to preventing the concrete from curing too fast. I have a plan for this by setting up special sprinklers system to do this. We want to do the polished finish concrete as well stained and a coating to seal it. I look forward to see the connection between the foam "curb" and the finished wall along with the joints for the doors and their connecting sidewalks outside.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

A sprinkler would be great for this. Especially now that you can get those cheap controllers that turn them on every few hours. This slab is a bit to large for sprinklers. I would have needed at least 4 of them. The building sits directly on the edge of the concrete and there is flashing that starts behind the wall panels and overlaps over the foam edge.

[@norwaybirds3015]

Hi from Australia 🦘 That is absolutely amazing! Congratulations. Great tips and amazing skills. Thank you

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Put another Shrimp on the barbie!! Thanks for watching!

[@AnarchyEnsues]

Hot tip. If you want to drill into a radiant floor, turn the floor on, and use a thermal camera to see where the pipes are.

[@anan7s294]

Was fun and interesting to watch. 👍🏼

[@harrie205]

The concrete surface looks very nice

[@johannan572]

Great update video! Very entertaining but also educational.

[@jamesa8851]

You could've used a pex expander to put the tube on the connector. Or used a heat gun and a pair of needle nose pliers in reverse to stretch the tubing.

[@oleschinsky974]

No timber shuttering at all - this thermal insulation looks clever 👏

[@jamesmck896]

This is looking awesome 👏

[@NikolaSlavkovic]

Why not add crack control joints to control cracking of the slab? Amazing job so far, keep at it! 😊

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I know that is a standard in the US and I was supprised that it was not neccessary here. The engineers wrote "The reinforcement was planned for a limitation of crack width with wcal = 0.3 mm. Cutting of joints is not required.” I guess that there is so much rebar in this slab, that it would be hard for large cracks to form. I was told to expect micro cracks on the surface which I don´t mind. I would create myself a lot of extra work if I was worried about the looks of the floor. My current workshop has asphalt and is very forgiving in terms of stains.

[@BasBoon-x6o]

This is a monolithic slab. A rebar configuration is designed to control the crack width (0,3 mm) in a well distributed way

[@Dustmadeout]

​@@MaxMakerChannelI am an engineer who does the calculation and writes this. You are totally correct, we make a crack width design check, which takes into consideration the slab thickness, it's orientation (wall, slab on surface, plate in space), concrete exposing class, allowable crack width (standard is 0.4-0.3mm, could have less for certain applications). And we get a necessary smallest amount of reinforcement. Usually for such slabs this number is bigger than the number used in loading calculations, so we chose the biggest one. In your case probably around 5.24-6.xx cm².

[@MaxMakerChannel]

@@Dustmadeout Very interesting! Thank you for the explanation. So do you say that we used the rebar primarily to stop cracks instead of holding up the building?

[@Dustmadeout]

@@MaxMakerChannel Probably yes, just check your Statik, Kapitel Sohlplatte. You need erf.A= from the Rissbreitennachweis and compare this to the graphics showing Isolines of erf. Bewehrung in the numerical calculation.

[@mohdgabir3344]

Beautiful

[@alfa0mega74]

I searched for exactly this kind of video for a very long time. this is a true dream shop. please update just like this video. the details are really nice to watch

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Glad it helps you!

[@alfa0mega74]

@@MaxMakerChannel is there any cracks on the concrete? pls keep the videos coming. this is some high quality german stuff. there is no similar video on youtube. it will catch probably 1m views soon

[@alfa0mega74]

my biggest question, that foam thing, will it shrink in time? I mean one part of the building will be tons a lot havier, will it make any uneavenness in 20*30 years?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

@@alfa0mega74 None yet! And the roof is up!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

@@alfa0mega74 Who knows?

[@jaapster1273]

Yes sir, European building, unmatched.

[@rowingcrack]

Talking about sustainability not using epoxy is also very good. CO2 emissions of it are quite large and recycling the concrete later is also a problem. So a little more work by doing a good finishing job goes a long way!

[@verven999]

looking forward to next week epizode

[@TorteTS]

Very interesting. The foam can only withstand because of the low contact pressure?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Yes, the load gets spread out over a huge area. The foam is also extemly hard! If you would suspend a sheet like a bridge, you could easily stand in the middle of it. There are differnt hardness levels and ours was the highest that you can get.

[@dirtlac1]

How did you plan the routing of the heating pipes that all of them become 100 m length at the end? Keep up the good work!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

The rooms need between 1 and 3 loops. So if a room has some meters leftover we placed those leftover meters inside the workshop area. So maybe the last 30m would end up in the workshop and it doesn’t matter if that giant space gets some heat or not. If will spread out.

[@dinmavric5504]

no idea what im watching but very interestinggggggggggg

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I am building a giant workshop!

[@Rir461]

When will the next video be out? Looking forward for it!

[@4ickyy]

Wow, only a few people mention the health side effects like fumes. Well done my friend. Please build my dream home for that comment alone

[@MaxMakerChannel]

This is the last thing I ever build.

[@yhachler]

How did you account for lens distortion when you overlaid your plans onto the aerial shot?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Funny enough there wasn’t any. I guess its because the drone was so high up and the lenses is pretty straight. But you can get the value of the lenses from the image file and then apply correction in photoshop.

[@bbtbnwjdfotsyk4]

I'd love to see the cost breakdown of this project

[@MaxMakerChannel]

200 for the property 140 for concrete 280 for three steel building 30 for electric 50 for interior 50 for outdoor 50 for solar Roughly 800.000€

[@AdityaMehendale]

SHIT forgot to say this sooner: I too did a floor insulation and floor hearing myself, but had ONE regret afterwards: I did not put heat-exchange tubes BELOW the foam insulation. No, I'm not crazy, hear me out: Any insulation-pack has TWO sides, The "other" side, considering the 20-cm or so of XPS that you put down, is VERY valuable - as a cold-sink in the winter if and when you get heat-pumps, and as a heat-dump in the summer, when it shal invariably get hot. I know you have ground-heat-exchange borewells and all that, but still, for a few aditional euros per square meter, you (could) have a "free" thermal-resource. You migh tthink it counterproductive to cool below the insulation in winter, but the 20cm is orders-of-magnitude more insulative than the earth below, so the incremental disadvantage of having the earth slightly colder is negligible. Yoy can also think of the two water-circuits as two heat-potential sources, and a simple valve or pump inbetween as a "switch", so that you can choose to delete or reinstate the insulation with one twist of the valve.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

That is a very interesting point and I never heard of this idea before! A lot of people burry heat pump pipes in their gardens to use the soil as a heat sink. That way in winter you can use the 7° warm ground to draw heat from versus the 0° warm air. The reason why I disregarded that idea is that you cannot use water in those pipes for fear of freezing. You need a frost proof liquid and that in Germany comes with some enviromental regulations which I didn´t want to deal with. Also I have a air heat pump in my home and that works extremly efficient too. Using the air was just a litle bit less complicated. But your idea sounds very reasonable!

[@AdityaMehendale]

@@MaxMakerChannel :( The reason you haven't heard it before is that I though of it myself (unfortunately after having installed my floor-heating). More from an engineering background, Seebeck/Peltier effect or "active ground" (instrumentation) or "counter-mass" (lithography) standpoint, this makes sense (acting upon the "other" side). I had seen another person use the waste-heat from their fridge to (slightly) warm their pantry, as inspiration. Perhaps worth some more thought :) It'll be quite some time before I take-on my next civil-engineering task!

[@Dragonited]

​@@MaxMakerChannelNo risk of freezing if the pipes are bellow themaximum frost line. It wouldn't have been very far down since it's 80 cm here southern Sweden. The heated building on top would have been a good insulator as well. The footings are supposed to be bellow the frost liine anyway so you don't have ground that changes with the season that the building rests on.

[@kameljoe21]

@@AdityaMehendale Not sure I understand what you mean. Yet I could see installing pipes 4 or 5 feet below the existing slab to loop in to the slab should last nearly most of the summer to keep the slab cool. The freeze protection is food grade glycol. You said 20cm of xps insulation? That is 8 inches. Until we find a better supplier for cheaper prices we are considering around 5cm of insulation. We have mild winters with a cold spell that last up to a few weeks. We are going to put more insulation into the walls and ceiling. Hot summers are a problem. I am looking for a combo of radiant heat and heat pump all in one type unit. That way the slab can stay warm yet if further heat is required it can be provided along with maximum cooling. The only problem with this is I supsect that you would need to install contact temp sensor or have in slab sensors. I am sure the wire would be fine yet if one would have to replace such a sensor how would that be done> Which is why I think contact sensors would be ideal.

[@AdityaMehendale]

@@kameljoe21 Hi, (1) I eyeballed the foam at 00:08 and guesstimated it to be 20 cm - M|M later states it to be 12cm, and that is fine too; I have 17cm installed. (2) Cost for insulation is horrendous, but the cost of fuel even more so. If you calculate the payback-time, then sure 5cm pays back quicker; however if you calculate the total costs (including labor, resale value, and heating-costs) over a longer period - say 20yr, then the "excessive" insulation-layer makes sense. (3) This is not applicable if you have a thin (5 cm) insulation-pack; however, if you have a (ridiculously thick) insulation, then there is no downside to using the earth below your insulation as a cold-dump (assuming you use a heatpump). The ground shall get a few degrees colder, but the increased delta-T shall not impress the insulator. If the ground-temperature never goes below zero, you shall not need coolants other than tap-water. More valuably, during summer, the ground acts as a "free" airco - theoretically one could even generate power from dumping the summer-heat into the ground, but I digress... All this assumes that you are digging up your foundation to install insulation and floor-heating *anyway* and then there's just the incremental cost of a few 100 meter of tubing to install *below* the insulation (material cost being less than a few 100 monies) just as you do above it for floor-heating.

[@dronefootage2778]

i love watching this stuff, thanks a lot for sharing. i'd also be curious how much this stuff costs, like when you said that you had 15 concrete trucks i was curious how much that costs or all the rebar and everything.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I think the concrete was about 20,000€ and the rebar about 15,000€. In total the slab with foundation was 140,000€.

[@dronefootage2778]

@@MaxMakerChannel wow, that's a lot of money. i do agree with your philosophy though, pay more upfront to make it efficient and save money in the long run.

[@id104335409]

German perfection! Does anyone else build like this in other countries?

[@martinstedtler]

The floorheating seems to have a rathter large spacing between, compared to whats used in homes (15cm & 8-10 in bathrooms)? Will you use a higher water temperature?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

In homes its typically 10-15cm. I chose 20cm. However these pipes have 20mm outside diameter whereas most homes have 16mm pipes. So more water with more energy can flow through these. Also the workshop only needs 19°C, but homes should go up to 23°C. And here the concrete slab is much thicker.

[@t789yq34iZKJFHWEIL]

Hi Max, how big will the heat pump be in terms of power? I assume it will be air/water (the water part was clear from this video :)). Enjoyed it

[@MaxMakerChannel]

It will have 16kW of heat output. So around 4-5 kW of electrical power + a 10kW heating coil for extremely cold days. This pump will be at its limit during cold weeks which is at -11°C. I think it will be alright since we get that temperature maybe twice per year and only for one or two nights. During the day its always at least -5°C. If it cannot keep up, we can prioritise the office and let the workshop cool down. I think with the good insulation it will take a while for the temperature to drop. 16 kW is the limit for most heat pumps and a second one adds cost which we likely don’t need, but I could retrofit one of course.

[@jamieattwells2444]

whens the next episode going to drop ?

[@peterhorst7605]

Great Video ! How thick made you the concrete ?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

20cm

[@henning9324]

ein Traum :D

[@kilerkai]

I wonder if the power troweling could be automated so that nobody would have to sit on these things throughout the night. Maybe just a really simple little Robot that stays within the confines of the slab, similar to a simple lawn mowing robot?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Nice idea! There are so many things of this slab that could have been automated. I am thinking about a giant gantry crane that could have done the whole excavation. Then it could move on to do other jobs like adding the insulation and rebar and at least holding the radiant tubing coil for you.

[@kilerkai]

@@MaxMakerChannel let's develop it further and make an all-in-one solution. Big gantry crane with like 500 attachments with which it can do anything from excavating, stacking insulation, laying pipes, 3D-printing structures, etc. 😂

[@MaxMakerChannel]

@kilerkai Thats my thinking! Even just a mobile toolholder so if you lay a pipe on the foundation there is everything at reach for the worker. Lubricant, saw, tape measures and of course a arrow that marks the correct location. The robot could also have a mobile rain roof over the workers. A assistant.

[@fromaflafl2198]

what R ore U value do you achieve with this system and 12cm of foam. for a Concrete Slab with Radiant Heating i would have expect 30cm of eps foam

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Its about 0.23W/(m2k). This is XPS. If I had to do it again I would probably pick 14cm. Those extra 2cm only cost 2000€ and the work is the same.

[@elbuggo]

@@MaxMakerChannel There is a significant diminishing return on more insulation. If interested, watch: _How Much Spray Foam Insulation do I need? | The most popular question answered_

[@Thekidfromcalifornia2.0]

Hi max!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Cool profile picture!

[@Thekidfromcalifornia2.0]

@@MaxMakerChannel thanks was taken on a phase One by a friend.

[@tboniusmaximus3047]

that wont go anywhere, it will probably dust up really bad, should go ahead and hit it like 4 times with some sodium based densifier.

[@suibora]

4:16 I know what noise you're talking about. Horrible sound 😂😂

[@alex98b627]

This looks like an amazing system!! Is that a few illegal immigrant workers who have been blurred out? Just curious (and being nosey)

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Not at all. This would only cause trouble long term. I stick to the rules and avoid stress that way. Germans are very scared about their privacy. For some reason many even blur their license plates when they upload a picture. Even when there is no information that you can get from it. Call it culture.

[@mb9662]

Did this cost more than $12k?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Yes

[@TomsBackyardWorkshop]

How much did you pay for that erector set?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Two Ferraris worth.

[@Cutlerylover4life1]

anyone know of a foam product/system like this that is offered in the US?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I think Jackodur sells in the US as well.

[@clementclarisseclemen3d708]

I'm quite astonished that there's no control cracks on your slab for avoid the unwanted ones... Did you use fibers in the concrete mix ? Also, i've saw that you look for hire someone in full-time job in your workshop but i guess it's required to speak german very well is'nt it ?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I was surprised as well but the technical drawings specified that they are not needed and that cracks are taken into account. I hope the roof will be up before the really hot summer days that can happen here. Yes I am looking for someone. English or German would both work fine, but I think this is a job for some local that wants to live in Lübeck long term. Its a nice place anyway.

[@Rangerthelonewolf]

Cool idea. So many points of failure. 😂 be an expensive fix if something failed after construction.

[@wboumans]

So floor heating... What's so special?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Nor sure if its special but its the best. The heat is concentrated on the ground and it makes no noise.

[@jjtrades7186]

dude you fkd that shower drain all up lol

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Why? Its fine.

[@beluga2014]

No there is a foundation

[@kinzieconrad105]

And thus will cost several thousand$ more to run than if you had a new multi zone variable speed hvac! And several thousand$ more just to install versus central air or the new multi zone HVaC!

[@kinzieconrad105]

Now is radiant flooring nice yes when your in your gay-rodge laying on it! Thats about the extent of its usefulness and likablility !

[@kinzieconrad105]

Radiant heat is the most inefficient way to heat a space thats ever been thought up!

[@Deiphobuzz]

As an installer.. man the UFH is poorly layed out. Should be 150mm apart everywhere tbh. This wil have many cold spots.

[@kinzieconrad105]

You will totally regret this decision mid winter! Radiant heating sucks on so many levels!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Feel free to write why you think that.

[@kinzieconrad105]

I am a usaf trained HVAC tech and I have lived in dwellings with radiant heat and, I was always cold even with the heat cranked to the max! It's just science, you are trying to pass thermal energy through insulative material! Concrete is not a great thermal conductor period! There is a reason older homes with radiant heat have all been converted to central hvac!

[@kinzieconrad105]

​@@MaxMakerChannel you will to once you are cold all winter long! And it's gonna cost you $70k to fix post lesson learned! So if I where you I would build an extra spare closet in the center of the house!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I have been living in houses with floor heating all my life. Was never a problem. You are stating it as such a general problem which it isn’t.

[@chrispy3866]

What horrible quality control on that piping. I have never heard of such horrible tolerances. I would most certainly complain to your vender, and the manufacturer themselves. That is completely unacceptable!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I agree it shouldn´t happen. The manufacturer told me he would compensate me. So far I got no payment. We will see. The manufacturer said that the pipes are wound on a coil and when two lines cross each others there can be tension and that pulls the pipe through to fast or to slow. Anyway I think its something you can controll with a better process.

[@dinocat8]

Grown up lego looks very fun!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Its fun for the first 15 pieces. After that its just physical work. This building site is at the coast and at the top of a hill. So far it was always windy when I was there. That is fairly unpleasant. We also had a very cold April. Only on the day where we installed the insulation it was suddenly to warm. Heiko from Jackodur told me that installing Jackodur in summer when the sun is out is extremly hot because it reflects the sunlight so much. In summary, I am looking forward to working indoor soon!

[@dinocat8]

@@MaxMakerChannel could have monetized it! Want to play with big legos? Book your time and come over! You rake the ticket money, people have fun for 15 minutes, your insulation gets done 😄

[@deleted_handle]

​@@dinocat8 500IQ lol

[@demris15]

Don’t make a mistake though or you might be f’d

[@renevile]

a super good tip i got when i started building on radiant floors is, buy a cheap thermal camera, with that you can easily see where the heatpipes are. i have ~8-10cm of concrete above my pipes and i can easily locate the pipes within 2-3 cm. that way you can always be 100% shure not to hit any pipes now or in the future if you ever want to bolt something to the floor.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I got one of those, but I also just bought a wall scanning radar that can detect pipes, steel and cables. Not sure if I will be able to see these pipes with the thermal camera because they are 12cm deep.

[@renevile]

@@MaxMakerChannel you can't see the pipes directly but you can clearly see a temperature gradiant between the pipes and the gaps between the pipes and infer where the pipes are. i can clearly see mine in the livingroom under 8-10 cm of concrete with 10mm laminate floor and 2mm sound absorbing foam and moisture barrier above. at work i sometimes use a thermal camera to search for leaking pipes under ~30cm floor (30mm), insulation (50mm) and sand (20-25cm)

[@TheTrueRandomness]

This is my favorite series on YT right now! It's great to get a close up view of German/European construction techniques!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@tbillington]

Very interesting construction methods. Totally different to anything I've seen built here in Australia.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I keep watching videos from all over the world! I learned through KZbin that a lot of what is custom in construction is only due to local regulations. For example nobody in Germany has concrete driveways, but in the US, they are everywhere.

[@asztapaszta9]

I am amazed how confidently you handle the construction process, most people would just hire a project manager. I am an architect and I dream of building my own house one day, so I find your videos very inspirational. Thanks for sharing!

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thanks for watching! Its not as difficult as you might think and I doubt a project manager would do a good job when his or her money isn’t on the line.

[@ihass22]

It's so interesting to see the difference between how Europe builds vs how American builds

[@jrisner6535]

This is not a standard European build

[@ihass22]

@jrisner6535 than what is it cus it's not American that's for sure

[@jrisner6535]

@@ihass22 It's top ten percent European I guess

[@ihass22]

@@jrisner6535 so you don't even know and said I was wrong

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Standard in Europe is to add insulation on top of the slab and then another 8cm of low strength concrete ontop of that. So the radiant heat and cables would all sit underneath that top concrete layer. That is better for noise decoupling since the top concrete floats on insulation.

[@Tomniverse]

Fascinating series

[@Audrey.SmilingSticks]

Thanks again for taking us along with your process - really enjoying this series! 😎

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thanks for watching!

[@andy_warb]

Out of interest... why are your plumbing fittings using imperial measurements and not metric? Really enjoying this series... I dream of having my own workshop one day (all though I'll be happy with a converted garage!)

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Oh that is extremly confusing here! The sewage plumbing is in milimeters. The water fittings are in inches, but the water pipes are in milimeters. And for pipes they only give you the outside diameter. But different manufacturers have different internal diameters which is the thing that really matters! So you always need to subtract the wall thickness for calculations. Also if you have a 1” fitting which would be 25.4mm, the inside dieamter is 30mm and the outside diameter is 33mm. So nothing really adds up. So your question why it is the way? I can only say because to be a plumber here you need to do a goverment mandated 3 year apprenticship and to own a plumbing company you need a additional 1 year master course. So its somewhat a closed society and they are difficult to change or innovate.

[@joshuabrown8550]

Very much looking forward to the final shed video! Saw the short and excited to see the longer version!

[@Simon-A]

Interesting Video! Thanks for documenting. The first half felt a little bit like a Commercial tho.

[@jrisner6535]

How am I so fascinated, even though I have no idea what you are going to be doing in there 😂

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Its just a workshop like my current one is. Some woodworking, some metal working, electronics. All kinds of stuff!

[@jrisner6535]

@@MaxMakerChannel but just for KZbin? What do you 'normally' make?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

@jrisner6535 I built drawer slides for the caravanning industry and I work on new ideas. So prototyping in a way.

[@jrisner6535]

@@MaxMakerChannel cool, thank you

[@fritzfahrmann4730]

shouln't be the moisture stopped outside of the insolation? cause wet insulation is no insolation? But great video overall, really liked it - ist echt schön geworden der Boden :)

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thanks! Jackodur says its waterproof since its closed cell.

[@fritzfahrmann4730]

@@MaxMakerChannel thanks for the reasonse, than it's fine if it can't get soaking wet

[@fluffyredfox9226]

Laying the slab is always an exciting part of building. its funny seeing that your plot is the only one with development.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Yes, I am glad that its done now. Ther were so many steps and planning that went into the slab and now its set in stone. So the conrete is out of my mind.

[@ix_ix_]

17:31 this would be one of those jobs that looks fun to do 😂😂😂😂

[@yelpyy]

you sold me on jackodur insulation

[@micheljansen85]

Willst du da mit panzer auf fahren? 😅 Schöne arbeit!

[@BuildItAnyway]

Impressive

[@jtroulston6733]

men see this and say hell yeah @11:47

[@v3111e]

Hi Max. Its incredible what you are doing. First its Germany, and it VERY unususal (not in a culture) DIY such things. Second, you can save tons of money. Specialy here in Germany. Because nearly every “skilled profesional” is always reselling material with big surcharge and does not accept not “his” material (even though you can by exactly same much cheaper). At least I faced this in south Germany, Bavaria. I wonder about heating system comisioning (inbetriebnehmen). You still need a licenced company/person to sign papers (and it automaticaly becomes liable for complete system, which he did not done). Do you have somebody who reviews/approves already? And I guess you have an energy expert for some State support (KfW Förderung). Or?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

It is hard for sure. The heating doesn’t need any certification. Anyone can install it unless you work with refrigerant or propane. You need a electrician for sure and a plumber for fresh water. The rest anyone can do DIY. I have a Energy Expert for certification of the building but I don’t get a loan from KFW. Their interest rates are very bad for businesses.

[@cool50500]

nice

[@Seanlabor]

You could have used a ziptie gun: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5i4mX1moKenm7c. How much energy from heating the concrete slab is lost to the ground, compared to heating up the building above?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I think very very little now. If I remember correctly maybe 1000Wats vs 11000W for the rest of the building at -11°C.

[@MrTheBirdIsTheWord83]

after few videos now, I´m still asking myself: what exactly shall be produced in this shop?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

The workshop will be mainly used to build a specialty drawer slide for the camping industry. But I also use it to build all kinds of prototypes. At least at the moment. Who knows what happens in the future. I might even sell it at some point.

[@1AYTC]

Great video!

[@hunchbackaudio]

For what I know the floor heating pipe goes in the screed, never seen it in the actual construction? Interesting 🤔. This can take a long time for the heat to reach the top of the floor.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Yes it is slow but also constant. With the insulation the temperature will never change.

[@cookedaudio]

That foam system is pretty neat. Looks like you are doing a good job!

[@joshvmcconnell]

Fantastic. I love the foam / foundation solution. Also the radiant floor manifold you are using, I frequently see one manifold for both hot and cold *cries*,

[@Joseph-kl4jc]

WOOO!

[@jairo.cabello]

Max, thank you so much for your effort making the videos. They are enjoyable to watch and inspiring to see! Looking forward for the rest of the series. I can't imagine how special it will feel to you to enter the building the very first time you have a roof :)

[@MaxMakerChannel]

I am excited too. I have no idea how the space will be from the inside. I looked at my model using VR goggles but without furniture its just a box.

[@ArthurGrofic]

This man knows what he is doing

[@thomasalison6188]

Really impressive project, great job Max!

[@Hoonasmeister]

Pretty much how we do all concrete slabs in Sweden, except that vapor barrier.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

We even call it a Swedish slab!

[@Hoonasmeister]

@@MaxMakerChannel Cool :D

[@bendemeyer6365]

when's the next video? :D

[@MaxMakerChannel]

@@bendemeyer6365 soon! 2 weeks

[@Ludix147]

Will your heat pump also be able to cool? For when it's really hot in the summer.

[@R5555.]

I think today almost every heat pump is capable of doing that.

[@MotoLen51]

Yes. For example, our heat pump can cool the floors, but if you cool too much the floor gets wet from condensation so there is a limit to its effectiveness. Also, the cold air then stays close to the floor, since it is heavier, so ideally you need fans to move the cool air around.

[@jamesgregsy]

It's also not that big of an issue where Max is building, there are some hot days but it rarely gets over 30°C in the summer.

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Yes it will! The heatpump only needs one valve I think that reverses a cooling circuit. But as @MotoLen51 said, if the floor is too cold, condensation and mold will form. There are charts that tell you how low you can go. In my home that limit was always at about 18°. At 18° I can easily cool the rooms down to 22° in summer. The roof adds heat and the floor takes it away. But that only works with good insulation. If the roof adds to much heat, the floor needs to be cooler and then you reach the condensation limit.

[@procrastinator41]

Is the perimeter (exterior) not sealed ?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

No. No need.

[@procrastinator41]

@@MaxMakerChannel That’s where water comes from ?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

@@procrastinator41 The foam does not absorb moisture. Only the concrete could do that.

[@PeterLee-zn3jl]

Very complete install...fastidious prep , layout and sla looks tuff.! Including servixes , plumbing and wall provisions and work bench/hydraulic table is a COMMIT TO LAYOUT...EH..? Carry on...

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Thats why the hydaulic table is in the middle of the workshop! I don´t know yet where the work area will be exactly. So with the table in the middle it cannot be in the way. Also if we ever get a dilivery with a truck that does´t have a hydraulic loading platform, we can get our own forklift up on that truck.

[@G89-]

Amazing, love the longer format!