Intercooler Removal Tutorial for The 2022+ Kawasaki Ultra 310 Series Jet Ski

[@jerplane400]

That looked like a pain the the rear for you! But, like all or your tutorial videos, you have made it incredibly easier for others to do the work thanks to your videos! I owe you a lunch when I'm down there JD! Thanks for posting this.

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Haha thanks man! Yep, with me being one of the first to get this ski I get to be the test dummy for everyone!

[@LifeBeginsOnTheWater]

Sorry JD wish I have known you were taking the intercooler out to service/clean. Helpful to put a few layers of painters tape around the inside hull to avoid any scratches 😬. Anyway thanks for sharing, great information and content like always. Can’t think of the guy off the top of my head at the moment on KZbin (He’s from Australia) has a bunch of helpful little videos. Billy D

[@JDsWaterWorld]

The tape is a good idea! I figured it would come right out! I’ve seen it done on the previous generation, but those tricks don’t apply to the new skis! The shape of the engine compartment and location of the intercoooler mean it must be turned and removed in a specific sequence lol

[@kkutube1972]

Thank you for all your videos.

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Thank you for always watching and leaving a comment- very much appreciated!

[@RM.Adventures_]

Great jobs with the videos. remind me to never buy a boosted PWC 😅

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Hahah yes for every hour you ride, you have 2 hrs of maintenance

[@swedishkev]

HI JD, Great Tutorial as usual. I don't know if you remember, but I bought the 160lx and still waiting for the summer here in Sweden. I have gone through the manual, it is so confusing having 3 different models, and not just yours is so annoying.I still know absolutely nothing about these engines and do not know still what all the parts do and there is no good videos out there from Kawasaki. You have the 160 lx also. Would you do a 15-minute video, explaining what all the moving parts do, components, etc. So I and many others can get a good understanding of what we are looking at, instead of being clueless. Would really appreciate it. Something we could fall back to, if we have a problem if you also could explain, what to look out for, what might fail, etc.

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Kevin great idea. You are actually in luck, because I am about to do an oil change video on the 160 naturally aspirated engine. I’ll take some extra time to go over some of the components and what they do. The intercooler shown in this video is only on the supercharged ski- the Ultra 160 is very, very easy to maintain needing little more than oil changes

[@Tintran2719]

very new jet ski. what happen for intercooler replacement or just make tutorial? that is very cool video. I got kawasaki 2015 ultra 310x & just 52 hours. This jet ski have a problem when go up 50-56 Mph with high key & the power cut it down badly. that happen after impeller is stucked with the stone of rock. Any idea you can share ? Thanks for your video !

[@JDsWaterWorld]

I was cleaning and servicing the ski so decided to take the intercooler out for an inspection. For your 2015…there’s going to be a lot of things you need to check. First of all if you sucked up a rock it’s likely that the impeller is now damaged, and possibly the pump bearing and the impeller shaft. The pump must be removed to check the bearings and the impeller. Also, the ski is low hours but it’s a 2015 which means it wasn’t ridden very much, which is actually a bad thing. You will need to check the pivot bushing and the spring bushing (see my videos) on the supercharger tensioner. Address the pump first and go from there..if you are in the US call Kawi Performance in Long Island, NY and Steve can hook you up with either a new pump, or the parts you need to fix it.

[@Greanaerg]

Is the exhaust filter just a steel honeycomb welded/braised to a stainless mounting plate? If so, any aftermarket with 304/316 welded stainless to stainless?

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Yes exactly the plate is stainless the rest is not. There are two welds and the filters seem to always fail at the welds and the honeycomb..the best solution is to bypass the filter with a delete kit and be diligent about emptying the waterbox. The exhaust valves are extremely corrosion resistant inconel valves so really the filter is designed for neglectful ignorant consumers I have learned..i run the KP delete with no issue and have saved thousands by doing so

[@seadoocruiser1863]

What are the two large ducts from under the seat running down to the back of hull for?

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Passive ventilation hoses

[@nicka02]

How the heck do you remove/install the waterbox band with the intercooler in the way. I somehow managed to get the band off by luck but now I'm having the hardest time getting it back on. Thanks

[@JDsWaterWorld]

You can remove the intercooler mounting bolts, and the intake ducting, and move it around enough to get a pair of needle nose vice grips down there to latch it on. It's a challenge for sure...

[@nicka02]

@@JDsWaterWorld ended up moving the intercooler but still couldn’t get it on because my band clip got all bent from the pliers torquing it. Ended up hooking it with an S hook to lessen the distance and water box still feels solid

[@JDsWaterWorld]

That works! I have a large zip tie on mine at the moment lol because the metal square bracket bent same as yours

[@LUCAMTire]

Did your second exhaust filter fail before the the 50 hours? Should we be welding the outer shell to plate as it seems to not hold up from factory?

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Yeah..every 25 hours or so they fail on me…the first one the baffling actually came out of the cylinder and the second one the cylinder broke at the welds and was completely detached from the bracket. Seems like if you ride hard and fast the filters only last 25 hours…anyone who has a filter last longer does not ride hard

[@LUCAMTire]

@@JDsWaterWorld So i am better off switching mine out now before this season starts. I Think I have around 40 hours on the ski now. For technology these days a updated version of this exhaust filter should be made. Crazy how fast it fails. You must have around 75 hours now?

[@JDsWaterWorld]

I’m at 105 hours now. Soon you will be so good at changing the filter. You could do it and literally 15 minutes. Lol. Yes I agree they need to make the filter out of stainless steel and make it more durable for salt water riders

[@LUCAMTire]

​@@JDsWaterWorld This will be your 3rd filters change so far? Nice to have Jet Ski season all year round to get the hours in. I just got back from a 200 km ride on the snowmobile LOL We will probably be back on the water mid to end of May when the air gets a bit warmer. Going to start some bank fishing in the next few weeks once the ice is gone out of the rivers. Just checked the weather, 15-20cm of snow this sunday lol maybe i will be snowmobiling a few more weeks. 100% at this point in time it seems as a unreliable part. Should be constructed better or in a different location in the system to reduce fatigue. Thinking a service interval on the filter should be more like a 100 hours or 4 years on a consumer when properly maintained verses this once every 25 hours to be safe. It feels like it is a unnecessary expense at this point that can be avoided with a little bit better construction. What's a filter cost in your area?

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Yes my 4th filter is currently in service. Yeah definitely needs to be constructed better or they should sell a special one for salt water use..I’d pay extra if it would hold up. The filter here is $150 and the oem crush gaskets are about $14 each. About $200 with tax and shipping. Sometimes I get on eBay for less but otherwise I order from Riva Motorsports who gets to my house fedex next day. I love snowmobiling, I’ve got family in upstate NY we used to go all the time.

[@joeysprojects9081]

Hey JD, on the 15-21s is it the same procedure? Or do you have more room and dont have to remove the exhaust? Let me know, thanks

[@JDsWaterWorld]

It’s a bit different on your ski because of the extra room once you remove the rear grab handle- I don’t actually know if you need to remove the exhaust or not on the older one….

[@joeysprojects9081]

@@JDsWaterWorld well ill let you know in about 45 minutes. Commented on another one of your videos about my top end issue. I recently started using fogging oil in the blower instead of wd40. I suspect the intercooler is gummed up.

[@ConradMajzner]

Hey JD I have a question on the intercooler. Have you ever had any oil residue along with either sand or corrosion on the inlet of the intercooler as well as on the inside on the main feed duct from the supercharger to the intercooler? I took mine apart to change the exhaust filter and when taking the main duct out there was oil and what looks like white powder on the inside of the tubing and some on the inside of the intercooler but looking inside the supercharger it looked clean and dry. Would you say this is normal or there is some problem going on in my ski? Do you recommend I take out the intercooler and clean it or just clean out the duct? My ski has had problems with cavitation I wonder if that could have anything to do with it. I will also measure the wear ring around the propeller to see if it is too worn which could also be the cause. Much appreciated thanks

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Is this on a new ski or an older ski? What do you use to fog after each ride? Are you skimping on the fogging procedure? Sand would be very bad so let’s assume it’s mineral deposits from salt water riding. Some oil is normal- if your engine oil is overfilled (and even if it’s not) oil vapor makes it’s way into the catch can and some gets into the airbox and then into the intercooler..Check your breather line from the top of the catch can to the airbox..it might have what looks like yogurt in there- that’s an emulsified mix of oil vapor and condensation. It’s normal and especially if you’re whipping around at high speed you will see this. Your oil level should be halfway up the dipstick or you will see more than usual in the intake tract. Clean the ducts well with a rag, double check those breather lines (clean them out) and always make sure to fog. Wd-40 ($5) or Lear corrosion block ($28) both work well, avoid thick fogging oils designed for engine storage.

[@ConradMajzner]

It is a 2015 model and I guess we have been skimping a little on the fogging procedures and I will make sure to do it more regularly since it’s easy to do but we just ride in fresh water never salt water. What do you think is the problem for the cavitation we are experiencing? The supercharger belt is still in great condition and like I said the supercharger itself looks clean just from looking inside from where the duct connects.

[@JDsWaterWorld]

How many hours? Have you ever serviced the pump bearings or the driveline bearings? There is no wear ring, but inspect the impeller for nicks, chips, or bends and the housing for gouges and deep scrapes. I have a video where I show you how to inspect the clearance between the housing and impeller with a feeler gauge- do that. These pumps don’t usually cavitate…unless there is an issue.

[@ConradMajzner]

Sometimes it runs fine but other times when you try to go fast it cuts in and out of power aggressively and only works if you slowly give it throttle but still doesn’t run to its full potential. We installed a new propeller last year with better flow I’m pretty sure

[@ConradMajzner]

It has about 85 hours on it but I’m pretty sure we just replaced the propeller. I will take the whole unit out today and the for any bearing play and also check the clearance around the propeller

[@peepoe78]

Well that looked like the biggest pain in the arse so far.. 😜 Another great vid, keep ‘em coming!! 👍

[@JDsWaterWorld]

It wasn’t terrible, just has to be angled a very specific way!

[@danav3387]

Imagine if Kawasaki removed that second water box put the intercooler over there in its place to balance it out, put a normal size catch can even a plastic one, and in the current catch can/ intercooler area put a centrifugal style supercharger even a belt driven one. It would cut the weight way down and just simply changing the supercharger would probably free up 15 hp. Imagine how much horsepower twisting that current supercharger up takes. They wouldn’t really have to change anything else maybe go to a coil unplug ignition system.

[@DomenicBarilla-b5k]

What do you do if the exhaust filter is missing

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Well…it’s probably in your waterbox…or it has been discharged out the exhaust- if you’re lucky

[@TheAdventureState]

Great info! Why did you have to remove it? Lol

[@JDsWaterWorld]

Why, you ask? To perform routine maintenance…aka reconnect the bilge pickup line I accidentally pulled off since some idiots at Kawasaki decided not to use hose clamps on it…🤣😂

[@TheAdventureState]

@@JDsWaterWorld 😂🤣😂

[@danyko30k12]

@@JDsWaterWorld Yeap Hapened 2 me 2... no clamps???? BTW are U running now without the exhaust filter?

[@edwardbowles8613]

Curious about this also. Guys at Kawi Performance say they delete exhaust filter with no issues. Just be sure to blow water out after you take ski from water. Also in your filter video you remove manifold also. Was curious if that is necessary when watching that video. Now in this one you get filter out without removing manifold. Is that how you do the filter now? Thanks for the video. Trying to educate myself before purchasing. I may need to stick to 160s! Haha. You must have the coolest wife ever to get the ride time and maintenance time you get! Lucky man!

[@moisesbustos7432]

I was able to remove mine without taking the supercharger exhaust out Also my intercooler was full of oil is that normal?

[@JDsWaterWorld]

You got the intercooler out of a 2022+ without removing any of the exhaust pipe? What kind of oil? White emulsified oil and water mix? Or oil from fogging? If it’s your fogging oil, you may be spraying too much in when fogging after a ride. If it’s white emulsified mix, your oil level may be too high…

[@moisesbustos7432]

2017 my bad but no emulsified oil just black oil in the air box intercooler and more than likely my supercharger meaning I have something bad internally in the engine correct?