Intro 2 Clicks Out: Super Tenere Dirt & Street Suspension Setups

[@Motospeedua]

THANKS! very useful video

[@pckmuresan]

Hello Dave and Dave. I was wondering if possible to tune an KTM 950 Adventure with long travel, for 75% offroad use. Do I need a private session, do I need "premium" on the website? I am from Romania, so a 1 to 1 session it will be "hard to get". Thank you for your answer and understanding

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Patrick. This is why I created Remote Tuning. The 1-1 session would be easy to do via video - just a matter of time synchronization. If you know how to use tools I can email you settings. Please contact me via [e-mail]

[@faithpath8283]

Here is the TRICK to always get the correct direction for Scews and Adjusters, no matter what direction they are facing, or how deep the are hidden in different orientations. to tighten (screw in) 1, Use the Right hand (as some english ppl say righty tighty) 2, the turn direction is from Thumb towards your Fingers (index, middle,...). Also its the direction you have the most power. to loosen (screw out) 1, Use the Left hand (as some english ppl say lefty loosy) 2, the turn Direction is also from Thumb towards your Fingers (index, middle,...) Also its the direction you have the most power. In layman terms: Your hands are mirror images of each other, just as the threading of screws would be. The world has chosen to only use right handed screw threads in general. So your right hand with its natural motion will screw them in, and your left hand do the opposite of that. No matter which direction your right palm faces, going from thumb to finger always goes clockwise, and screws and adjusters get turned in with a clockwise motion. In the actual lingo: The r-chirality of your right hand fits the p-helical chirality of the screw thread, as the s-chirality of your left hand opposes the p-helical chirality of the screw thread. One could be fancy, invert the turn direction and use the same chirality bias to use one hand for both operations, fastening and loosening =)

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Brilliant. I was seeing myself switching hands for each action and now I understand why.

[@tysonkampbjj]

Liked and subscribed!! Fun fact: If you try to run away from Dave, he will catch you.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Good morning Tyson! How are you sir? Hope all is well in your world. My regards to Phil.

[@tysonkampbjj]

@@catalystreactionsbw We are both still in the south bay, would love to meet up for a pint or a yard or whatever. You look like you have a full schedule for sure but if you have a spare half day let's make it happen (I am mobile). My number is the same, I think I have your old one. Breezy has mine. Cheers!

[@Davigu]

Hey Dave, If bottom out is at 20 mm. At what height do i want the zip tie not to go past, to give my self a safe margin. 40mm? gives me 20 mm before bottom For track use Thanks in advance

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Ideal is 20-30mm from the bottom out mark, so given your understanding 50-40mm would be the number range you are looking at.

[@Davigu]

@@catalystreactionsbw awesome thanks

[@MujoNovak]

3:31 put that gum out of ur mouth!

[@gerardsalmon4960]

What do you think of the Tenere ES model , or would you recommend to stay away from the ES & stay with the non ES model 14 & up model year

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Electronic suspension is always worth evaluating as an option especially if you are not comfortable with tools. You can test settings with the push of a button and see what setting makes you smile most for street and dirt. If you are hands on, having a manual adjuster allows you to fine tune suspension so the ES option becomes less of a need.