Inventables Introduces 3D in EASEL Pro

[@adrianharrison5208]

Your videos remind me of the hobby TV shows that we used to get back in the 80's, such a pleasure to watch.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much

[@craftypaws22]

I am so excited Easel got three day I couldn't figure out any of the other programs out there my brain cannot comprehend but now I'm going to try this today thank you

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Awesome. Good luck with your projects. It’s a great addition

[@pdwoodwerkz9625]

A-1 video!!! But who would expect less from PawPaw

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much. Thanks for watching.

[@rodgertaylor3204]

Thannkyou Paw Paw for this video. i have to say you make it look so easy. Your explanations on the various parts of the project is top draw. your knowledge of cnc workings is up there with very best. thankyou for all your videos, the time and effort you put in is priceless to us NEWBIES to the cnc world.This the next step into my learning curve. Many Many thanks. look forward to more videos. Oh and big THUMBS UP to INVENTABLES for adding 3d to EASEL, moving things forward in the right direction.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much for you kind words. I’m glad that you are learning from my videos. Although I am not part of Inventables I congratulate them for making this improvement

[@kentturkow1572]

Thank you for another interesting and educational video. I enjoy your videos and have learned many things that help me with using my CNC router. I can rely on your website to keep me informed of the latest information and equipment. Case in point this video, thank you for sharing.

[@gordonhughes5220]

Never mind my friend, I just did a one inch carve on 2.75 thick slab, thats as deep as my bit would go, Thank you for everything!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

If you need to go deeper for some reason, there a longer bits available. I must say that is quite deep.

[@themclaughlinfive]

Thank you so very much for this amazing video. New ground for me but I am very blessed and thankful you did this for us!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

You’re very welcome. I’m happy to do this project

[@scott7128]

Beautiful carve thank you the demonstration

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you very much

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

You’re very welcome. Thanks for watching

[@umarhaque516]

PawPaw: thank you for this amazing video. You explain things so well! Really appreciate the time and effort you put in to all of these videos!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

You’re very welcome. I’m very happy to bring these videos to you. Thank you

[@deebs7952]

I've been in 3D printing for a long time. Also getting pretty advanced in Fusion. I can for the most part, design and print anything on a 3D printer. I've had an Xcarve for about a year now. Been cutting out projects like a mad man (all 1D cuts). My missing link was the translation between what I can do on 3D printers and the Xcarve. Every time I start a new line of learning, I stall because I know it will consume the little time I have. You just made the connecting between the two so simple and made me realize I can take my STL files and very easily crank them out on the Xcarve. Thank you!

[@lunnymav]

Oh wow cool carve. Thank you for the video.

[@banjerlegs3051]

Great video! Would you tell us what bits you recommend for 3D carving! Thanks for all you do!!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

A good quality 1/4” endmill for the roughing pass and usually a 1/8” ball nose works well. Whiteside, Amana, and Tools Today all have excellent bits

[@cheryljameson3088]

Thank you for video instruction that is easy to follow and understand. Please tell me where to purchase the pumpkin file you used in your example. Thanks very much.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

This file was purchased from the Design & Make by Vectric. There are tons of sites that offer 3D STL files.

[@craftypaws22]

Thank you so much can you do a few more of these for different projects love all your KZbin videos thank you

[@brucenorton3864]

Hi, As always your tutorials are invaluable, so thanks for that. How did you set your work (X & Y) zero point to ensure the carving is sitting correctly within the piece of wood? Do you take your machine to the point on the X,Y axis (as you want as you indicate in the video), then set the X,Y work position? Once this is done you do the probing, at a different spot as you show. How do you get your machine back to the exact X,Y position after probing, to ensure your job is positioned as shown in the browser? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, that is exactly how I do it. Notice the x,y position on the computer screen is the same point when I move the machine to the edge of the wood. Then in the checklist you set the x,y position. Then when I move the machine to z probe, I can move back to the zero position because it has been set. Hope this helps.

[@weslydenton9158]

Thanks paw paw. You really helped me out!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Glad I could help!

[@weslydenton9158]

Out of curiosity do you use a mop sanding wheel when sanding your 3d creations?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Be careful with that as it will remove some of the details

[@redherring5532]

When I bought my X carve 3 almost 4 yrs ago they promoted 3D carving and for the life of me I couldn't find out how to do it, come to find out they counted v bit carving as 3D, and I kinda felt ripped off, so I bought V Carve and am completely done with inventables. Vcarve is leaps and bounds better than whatever Easel can muster. They shoulda had this years ago then I might have bought a v carve pro. Great project Paw Paw, and cool model

[@alsaffarstudios]

Very useful video, great ideas and tips. Thanks for sharing your work with us 🙏🏼

[@johnfoster6194]

👍 Thanks, projects in mind.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Awesome! So many choices

[@JerePutnamII]

Thank you so much, another great video! How do you keep the X and Y access while you are changing the bit? Have you done a video on that? Every time I have tried to use 2 bits, it seems like I move the machine ever so slightly and then my X and Y are off.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Are you homing the machine? You can use the last x,y position.

[@JohnColgan.]

Depending on your hardware, YouCan set $1=255 to keep steppers powered to prevent movement. You can try using 1 hand pinch on spanners. Offset spanners on 2 separate flats and grip both in one hand, squeeze spanners together to lock/unlock the clamping nut. Doesn't apply side arm forces to move the spindle carriage

[@umarhaque516]

I have similar issues whenever I switch drillbits. The router shifts a bit when I swap the bits. Then I feel like my XY isn’t going to home the same way.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

John is right, check your GRBL settings and make sure $1=255. This will lock your stepper motors when you change the bits. Also, don’t overtighten your bits. That is another cause for move. Also, when you set the x,y work home record the location. After changing the bit use the last x,y position. Verify the coordinates are the same as what you recorded.

[@pawpawscustomcreations6447]

You did really well with explaining. I put up a video of a 3d model I cut last week and mine didn't come out that good.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Thank you. Keep practicing you’ll get it. It takes time to perfect it

[@stevemcnerney]

I really enjoy your videos. Easy to follow. Can you let us know where we can buy the model you made my wife watched the video and loved the pumpkins. Thanks again keep up the excellent work.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

This model was purchased from the Vectric website. Thank you for watching

[@MASSPJD]

awesome work! thanks for the video.

[@n1spen]

Thanks paw paw. You really helped me out! but could you tell me how to change the finishing bit it seams to only allow 1/8 i would like to use smaller for finer detail 1/16

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Technically you can not add ballnose bits in easel. You can enter a 1/16” endmill and name it the ballnose. You have to trick the Easel software

[@n1spen]

if i click on roughing bit top right of my screen i get a drop down menu of all my tool bits and i can chose the one i wish to use if i click on finishing bit i get nothing just a warning to tell me to turn power off before changing bits any suggestions would be gratefully accepted regards Nick..... @@PawPawsWorkShop

[@mikeledee8786]

When you selected the z height for the rough bit I noticed after you moved the bit to a different location, why is that? Also, you selected last xy versus set xy, why is that also? Thank you as always for your assistance.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

When I’m doing a project where a lot of material is going to be removed I will z the machine off to the side. The detailed pass will be z’ed at the exact same place. That will give the best results. On the detail pass I will use “last x,y position as the machine knows exactly where that is. No guess work

[@mikeledee8786]

@@PawPawsWorkShop thanks

[@cbms3277]

Thx for the information !!! I can’t wait to try this tomorrow , where can i get the 3d files ?

[@ericdickson2248]

Pawpaw Great video. But I have a question. I struggle with the cut depth. I understand z position and z size. Z position is how far from the bottom of the wood to the top of the cut Z size is the thickness of the art Am I correct and if so then what is the cut depth?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Depending on the software. In easel you z to the top of the material. The material surface is “0” and you cut down into the material measured in negative numbers. For example .125 deep would show as a -.125. In VCarve by Vectric you have a choice. You can measure on the material surface as I just explained or you can measure from the wasteboard itself as being “0”. In this case the numbers will be positive. For example, a project board .75” thick would show as a .75 and that would bring the bit to the surface of the material

[@joshualove3248]

I noticed the material is set for birch plywood, does it make a difference on the pine you carved?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

No it does not matter that much. Maple is harder than pine. If anything you could be a little more aggressive but there is no need

[@johnrist67]

Thanks for another great video. I use Carveco Maker but it won't do what I'm looking for, Maker Plus will, but it's expensive. I want to do an open book 3D carve with lettering across the page, but have the letters 1/8" deep no matter where it is on the page. Could this be done with Easel Pro?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

The depth when vcarving using a vbit will vary depending on the width of the letters. You can set a flat depth to an 1/8” to prevent the bit from going deeper but a very narrow portion of the letter will be shallower than a wider section. With the flat depth set it will not go any deeper than what you have set

[@patkearon8573]

Your videos are very helpful! I have a question about the blue line (before I hit carve and mess up!). The image I downloaded extends a bit past the the edges of the blue box. I have locked the image and played with the size but the imagine still protrudes. Will the edges that protrude be carved anyway? Thanks!

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

No. Anything outside the blue will not carve

[@patkearon8573]

@@PawPawsWorkShop is there a remedy?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

You must reduce the size of the image

[@davidhart7339]

In January you did a 3d Eagle carve in Vectric, in your opinion which one was easier to set up and carve. Always look forward for your new videos.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

In easel the settings are very elementary and very limited. I believe this is just the starting point for Inventables. Needed improvements will develop over time. VCarve by Vectric is very much an accomplished software for doing the 3D designs. Yes, there is a learning curve, however, every software has a learning curve

[@davidhart7339]

Thanks, another investment coming VCarve pro.

[@duaneheda3236]

As always a great video!! Things are so easy to do after watching you. One question. What did you use for cleaning/sanding the carve, by hand, dermal type tool or both?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Lots of hand Sam ding. A very sharp bit will minimize the need for much of the sanding

[@duaneheda3236]

@@PawPawsWorkShop Thank you Sir.

[@jeffreydavis9059]

I am just getting started in cnc with my foxalien 4040xe, and I do like the 3d carving, but it will be a while I learn all this

[@meltn2me]

Thank u again for great videos. When I do my finishing pass it doesn’t touch the material as if it’s trying to cut the original height it was before removing material. Do you have any tips of what I may be doing wrong?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

When you change bits for the finishing pass, do you z the machine at the same point?

[@meltn2me]

@@PawPawsWorkShop yes sir I do. I’ve tried with z probe and manually neither works. Just keeps cutting air instead of down on the image

[@patriotwoodworker6092]

Very nice. I haven’t any 3d work with my Shapeoko yet. What is the total time for that carve including the roughing pass?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

The roughing pass was about an hour

[@rjpatt11959]

Thanks for the video . How can I carve in the center of the material? Using easel 3D . Thanks

[@11290slk]

As this is used with Easel Pro, will you need the "monthly subscription" model or can it be used with one of the 4 "free days" per month (for those that had the old signup)?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, you need the pro version and if you have the four free days per month then you have the full pro version

[@11290slk]

@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks, just didn't know if they might have it changed for the 3D capabilities.

[@XBX555]

Great video. I had a question for the Z. Do you not recommend when changing to detail pass using last z location instead of redoing the z? Thank you as always.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

The z must be probed when changing bit. The height will be different. I use the last x,y position to run the carve

[@XBX555]

@@PawPawsWorkShop thx for the response ....that is what i meant x/y not z.

[@roberthollis1390]

What bit are you using on the final pass. Ball nose but which one.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

It’s an 1/8” ballnose

[@roberthollis1390]

Thank you for the reply. Is that a white side

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Amana, Whiteside, tools today all excellent

[@GlassWerx]

Can the center of image be placed at the 0,0 mark? I do all my others that way where I can place image dead center of my work piece. Just seems easier that way for me

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I did not try that. It’s worth a try. I’m not sure

[@GlassWerx]

@@PawPawsWorkShop ok. Thanks. I'll get on there n a bit and see if I can find some free stl files and give it a shot

[@anthonybates5030]

According to inventables’ presentation, yes.

[@JohnColgan.]

SethCNC has a new video showing the centre of material being centre of carve and showing correctly in preview.

[@GlassWerx]

@@JohnColgan. thanks. Didn't get a chance to mess with it yet.

[@haldiron2289]

Is there any other way to keep a consistent z-probe depth besides over-sizing the piece?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, just use a block off the side of your project. Just make sure that you use the same thickness

[@DennisMarquis-b8x]

I noticed your pumpkin is facing right. I changed it to the bottom like you did in the video but mine faces left. I notice when you downloaded your file it was name pumpkin.flip. Did you do something to the file before you downloaded it to Easel. It seems like mine 3d is facing downward rather than upward. Thanks for your help,

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, this particular file was originally designed as a pocket. It was a file for a candy mold. The file had to be flipped. It would have been easier to use a file that was correctly oriented to begin with. It would have saved a step

[@DennisMarquis-b8x]

@@PawPawsWorkShop How do you flip it? I purchased the Pumpkin Style A. Did I purchase the wrong one? It appears the carve side is facing down. It came in like yours to the side and if you flipped it to the top, you couldn't see it, so I used 'bottom'...it looks like it is facing down. I did try to carve it but it stopped carving after 23 minutes. It did like the frame around it. Any suggestions on this issue. Thanks again for your help. Your videos are great!

[@JuanLopez-vt2dp]

@PawPawsWorkShop, is there a place where you can upload a file to convert it into a 3d file?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Aspire is a software that you can use to create you own. There are numerous sources that provide services to convert your image. Patriot Nation Design is one source

[@TheSwampUF]

Would you happen to know why mine does the padding in the finishing pass, instead of the roughing pass?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I do not know what you are asking?

[@TheSwampUF]

@@PawPawsWorkShop when doing a model boundary relief, the roughing pass doesn’t do the padding around the model, the finishing pass does, which causes the ball nose bit to plunge into the sides of the material, resulting in a jagged border around the model.

[@kfritze]

Is the 1/8" Ball-Nose an upcut bit?

[@karengillispie3410]

Thank you for all your videos, I want to make a 3d carve from a picture of my son and his hunting dog he is having to put to sleep because he has cancer. I have the inventables 30 x 30 with easel pro. i'm needing help on how to import the picture. Thanks in advance, Ron

[@GKPark-g8f]

where can I get this project download? I'd really like to try it!

[@ginah586]

Hello Paw Paw, how long did this to crave?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I don’t remember how long but it did take a long time. Several hours

[@ginah586]

@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you because I am highly considering joining the CNC club from the Laser world. What would be your #1 suggestion for a high level Laser user?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I would suggest getting the largest CNC machine that both fits your budget and space in your shop. You can do small projects on a big machine but you can not do large projects on a small machine. You’ll out grow the small machine. Easel is a great entry level software to learn on but again you will outgrow it quickly and I am not an advocate for the subscription. I would suggest VCarve Basic by Vectric. This is a software that will grow with you. Also, you can get the Openbuilds controller which is free to run the machine.

[@ginah586]

Thank you so much! I will definitely keep you posted on my outcome 😊

[@jfuljer]

Hi PawPaw, as always Excellent tutorial. I found one limitation related to the 3d Easel addition. It looks like it can upload only files up to 100Mb. I tried to reduce my stl file by using Mesh simplification software but it either didn't work or took too long. Do you (or anyone else here) know any other solution for this problem?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

No solution to this

[@henryhbk]

I would add that you can of course make your own 3D models in any of the CAD packages which allow you to export the model in STL format (OnShape, Fusion, etc). One of the cooler things you can do is from McMaster-Carr every product has a 3D model for free (need to carve a giant pipe flange? - maybe for a plumbing supply store well it's in the product details) (look for the little 3D icon)

[@elbertpetree2998]

I am ready to try 3D on Easel. My only problem is I can't seem to download the STL files to my computer. When I download a file I don't know where it goes. Please can you help me? I just can't figure it out...

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

First look in your download folder. Next, before you hit download it will show a destination, copy it down.

[@elbertpetree2998]

@@PawPawsWorkShop it only shows up as a text, but not as a STL file. When I open the stl file in easel it is nothing there. But it shows up in All Files but in only text format. ????????

[@oregonthunder18gold91]

Can you send us a link to the 1/8 ball nose bit you used??

[@redherring5532]

Just my advice from a user using two cnc machines for the past 3 yrs. Get you an Amana Spektra coated ball nose bit, 1/8th inch quarter inch shank. I've used the hell out of it and its still rockin. Little pricey, but worth every penny I swear

[@scott7128]

Where can I get stl 3d for easel?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Just Google 3D STL. Also look at Etsy

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Do a google search. Also Etsy and vectric

[@roberthollis1390]

You have a link to the ball nose bit you used

[@sylviacook2005]

Hi can you do a easel video on stand alone letters , a word on a base all cut out , i can not figure it out , thanks

[@tomberardo3282]

PRODUCT NAME: PUMPKIN STACK STYLE A When I downloaded it they were facing the opposite direction. When I carved them they carved inverted. Could you please help me.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

This file was actually designed for a candy mold. Send me your email and I'll send the revised file to you

[@walkingquad2001]

can you post a link to the bits please?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I get my bits from many different sources. The best that I have found is Amana, Tools Today and Whiteside.

[@johnnymensi3004]

Where did you get that file from

[@GlassWerx]

Awesome info. Maybe I can find some free files and give it a try.

[@tanddbi2005]

Maybe in the next video link some of those sources for the 3d.stl files if you could

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

I buy the 3d files and there are many different sources. Also VCarve has a library of many to chose from when you purchase the software.

[@wcmeyer6846]

Did you upgrade to Easel Pro or are you using your 3 free days per month?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, I upgraded to the pro version

[@torowazup1]

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼🍎😎 Can you cut with it?

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Yes, you have several options in easel

[@CarrackPilot]

This is a nice update. I moved away from easel because it could not do this.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Very nice new feature, very simple to use

[@craftypaws22]

I need help I download an app STL file it's in my downloads but when I click on it it just shows like the numbers and letters also how do I make a file smaller I tried to put in an insult and I said I was too large thank you

[@jimhanigan1758]

That’s exactly what I’m getting.

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Is this a text file? When you downloaded the file, did you get several files or just one?

[@jimhanigan1758]

@@PawPawsWorkShop STL file it downloaded 5 times and I couldn’t upload it. says file to large (over 100) and the reducer on the download page would not respond like easel says

[@warrenking1815]

Very nice, you did a great job explaining it!

[@randymetzger3541]

I'm have the same issue I down load on pc can't open it. It show in my files but not when I open easel to import. With svg I have to open and save once downloaded. Help

[@wowyummyyy]

👍👍👍👍👍👍 💯💯 😻😻😻😻😻 👏👏👏👏👏

[@htom4809]

Why haven't change your mouse size and color. Do you even watch you videos

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

Tell me where to change it. I’ve looked in the settings on my old computer and do not see where I can enlarge or change the color other than black or white

[@yo3pp2000]

Hello! if I send you a photo, you can send me the G-code of that photo for a fee. I'm a beginner.

[@joelchavez2484]

Hey pawpaw make a wavey 3d american flag

[@PawPawsWorkShop]

That’s a thought. Thanks

[@Blueretiredlife]

That’s the file I want to try too! No stars though. I want to burn it with my CO2 laser after the wavy flag carve.

[@paulbateman5769]

Great stuff but you Americans and your inches. I mean where is 1/10th of an inch on the ruler? Ha. Saying that here in England we changed to metric decades ago but I still use inches when I want to. I just use the easiest one for the job. In the case of this 3d printing software surely mm would be the easiest option. Here comes the imperial attack.......

[@raytucker8060]

Only one thing you did not do!!!. You did not show how to download this or other STL images from the internet, YOU already have this downloaded and ready to use in your computer!!... Please do a video on how to download STL files from the internet.

[@raytucker8060]

nobody on youtube has a video to show how to do this, GET STL from internet and save in computer