Is Off Grid Solar Really That Simple?

[@daddio7249]

I am not off grid but am making preparations for if the grid goes down (Florida, nuff said). Rural area, I have room for a ground mount and no neighbors. I do have a good sized budget and have blown most of it. 11,000 watts of panels, four 5.12 kWh batteries, and two 6,500 watt inverters. Building my own ground mount and doing all my wiring. Had to get some toys to make it easier, three point post hole digger for my tractor, no way will 71 year old me be able to dig 24 4 ft deep holes to anchor the mount poles in. I will follow you and let you know how I am doing. Got my inverters and new breaker panel mounted. Just ordered $850 worth of wire, breakers, and fuses to connect the batteries and inverters. While i wait on those I will start digging holes and putting up poles.

[@offgridsolitude]

That a sweet setup! Nice.

[@dougwilson8274]

Your my new hero! at 63 I hope I can retire an do the same thing soon.

[@LEETAVES]

I LIKE WISE, I LIKE YOUR IDEA

[@pipbuster]

Great video and I love your common sense approach to what works best for you. I also especially like the idea of separate systems as you grow so you have built-in backups.

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks!

[@arnoldreiter435]

The great thing about DIY solar is that you can build to your needs. Becoming your own power provider is becoming easier and there are many ways to do it. From what i have seen it is only the minimalists that are ok with small systems. For the rest of us there is no such thing as to many panels......lol. I started out with 4 100w panels and a 1k all in one inverter charger for my garage four years ago. This morning i count 18 250w panels that are powering essential my whole house. It is an off grid system and it runs every day to reduce my power bill and provide me with power if the grid is not working for whatever reason. Looking forward to watching your journey here.

[@offgridsolitude]

Im definitely a minimalist, but I can already tell my system will grow fast

[@r.b.l.5841]

Pretty good simple summary. Higher output system you need higher voltages. Good Rule of Thumb 0-2kW system use 12v 2-4kW system use 24v system over 4kW systems use 48volt. consider you don't want to go above 160A due to wire sizes. Most people will eventually add more loads. If you start with 48volt you don't have to change the whole set up to go bigger later.

[@offgridsolitude]

Good point. Thanks.

[@tsetendorjee9040]

We love your KZbin about Solar!!!

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks!

[@user-tl3qi3wn7k]

Very refreshing. I’m in UK and have take a similar approach. I have two set ups, though they are 24v. I’m not interested in watching the “straight by the book” channels. You’re doing it your way and I love it. You have my Sub

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks!

[@davidpotter9462]

I built my own system, 1600 watts of panels, 600 watts wind generator. Im presently using twenty lead acid batteries but Im getting a 24 volts 100 amp hours battery next week. I plan to get two of them. I'm using a 24 volts 2000 watts Aims Power inverter charger. It rains a lot here, so I have to have more batteries than some people.

[@offgridsolitude]

Sounds awesome!

[@Electronzap]

Nice tour of your system.

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks!

[@HotRockCentral]

You're pretty much right about component costs per watt hour being comparable but the difference in 12v vs 24v when it comes to wiring costs is dramatic. It takes much larger wiring doing a 12v system & wire is thru the roof these days so going 24v can save big bux just on that.

[@offgridsolitude]

Thats true. I didnt go into the wiring, but it can get expensive.

[@bodoclausen4572]

@@offgridsolitude additional point is cost of solar charge controller for example Victron MPPT 100/20. That can be used for different Systems 12V, 24V, 48V. The maximum power that is pushed into the batteries 12V = 290W/ 24V = 580W/48V = 1160W

[@fisherus]

If you want to add on to your system down the road, you would be far better off with a hybrid inverter system that you can piggyback more hybrid inverter systems on to. I would recommend using Signature Solar out of Texas to purchase everything you need to put your system together. I would also recommend using a 48V system over a 12V or 24V system, due to the high efficiency of the system as well as your 12V or 24V systems will be worthless if you want to use electricity on as many things as possible to save money for buying propane fuel, which is quite expensive. I made the same mistakes you are making with solar when started 5 years ago and would have almost $16K in my pocket had I listened and taken that advice. Good video presentation though with the exception that you left out the fuses and breaker switches.

[@rongray4118]

Thank you for posting your video. My wife and I are setting up off grid solar in Northern Nevada. I truly appreciate your detailed list of equipment and the simple, straightforward advice you offer. Keep it Simple Stupid always works best for me! Blessings and Happy New Year to You!

[@offgridsolitude]

That is awesome!

[@robbie31580]

I agree 100% it is far more simple than people realize. I've been running an off grid mini split that I installed with a little help from a HVAC professional. It was probably more fear than anything that slowed me down. The actual process truly wasn't difficult. The Midea U Shaped window units have been great as well. They take 30 min to install and they are relatively efficient. Don't need any kind of HVAC help either. I've also liked signature solar's products. Their all in one 3kw inverter/5kw pv input is a pretty solid value, but it's a 48v setup. Great video!

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks. I will put in a mini-split eventually. I'll definitely look into the stuff you mentioned.

[@leetaves9143]

your right on man, i even made my life04 batterys a dollar at a time they been working fine for over a year, if i had the money its cheaper to buy now for under 200.00 but a dollar down and your on your way

[@LEETAVES]

I LIKE WISE, THATS A GOOD IDEA

[@5400bowen]

The other good thing about adding complete small systems is that the gear is evolving so fast, you will want to use the more modern equipment, and some of it isn't going to interface with the old gear. I've been saying for decades, if one big unit was better than multiple smaller ones, your body would be one giant cell. And it is safer and more economical splitting up all that power among multiple smaller systems.

[@offgridsolitude]

agreed.

[@photorealm]

The cool thing about solar is it is easily expandable, so you can start tiny and get a feel for the results. It will be real clear what you need more of for your personal needs. Its kind of addicting, once you realize the stuff actually works the confidence to plow ahead grows and your electric bill shrinks. And there is great information online like this video and more to answer almost any question.

[@offgridsolitude]

Good points. I agree. Thanks for watching

[@chilam4354]

Thank you so much for your video, Joe

[@offgridsolitude]

You are very welcome

[@PeterLawton]

Great perspective. I have such a tendency to go beyond the point where I should stop, that I bought a T-shirt that says, "Hang On Let me overthink this"

[@offgridsolitude]

lol. Thanks

[@richardcolbourne5927]

Great attitude

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks

[@denisestarr2314]

Like you . I kept it simple. 12v system. Started small . Now Im doing 800wt. And it will be added on to . 6 years offgrid .

[@offgridsolitude]

Nice!

[@GetReadyPrepping]

I definitely agree with modular Solar being smarter for redundancy. Excellent advice

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks

[@GetReadyPrepping]

@@offgridsolitude you’re absolutely welcome. Thanks for the great advice

[@Edmant]

Great video. You've given me a lot of confidence to go ahead with my solar connections. Thanks.

[@offgridsolitude]

Great to hear!

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Great video

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks!

[@jl9678]

Great vid. Consider mini splits if you get HVAC. Easy for inverters to run

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks. A mini-split is definitely on my to-do list.

[@BecomingOffgrid]

I swapped out my whole standard HVAC for mini splits - it's the difference between getting off grid and not off grid

[@harryhoesch3793]

Right with you on multiple systems. Keeps them useful when technology changes, so this monster you created needs to be totally replaced.

[@jasonking6892]

Good video🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿👍

[@kathymoorehead7827]

Great video! Thank you for the power configuration graphics. 👏

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks!

[@rizzalouisesy9855]

That electric shock was funny 😂 love the content too

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks. lol

[@TechSchedule]

Great advice, thank you for this video! 👍

[@offgridsolitude]

Glad it was helpful!

[@junkerzn7312]

I totally agree on having a little independent system for equipment located away from the house. I don't entirely agree with you on maintaining discrete systems within the house. I do agree with the redundancy argument, but it is also important to reduce complexity and maintenance and in particular you don't want to have to monitor multiple independent battery systems. When conditions get tight it can be a struggle. You can have redundancies even with just one integrated system. For example, if you have two strings of solar panels put each string into its own charge controller (like a Victron SmartSolar 100/20). So now you have redundant charge controllers. And you can put two (or more) 48V batteries in parallel... so now you have battery redundancy. This also gives you a lower-impedance DC bus that can absorb bigger surges without damage. And the outputs can go to more than one inverter so you have redundancy there too. Plus a few spares on the shelf. But only one "battery level" that you need to monitor, and all of your storage is ganged so if conditions get tight you just shut-off some equipment and now the whole system can be directed to remaining loads. On 12V/24V/48V... these days you should definitely go with 48V LiFepO4. The reason is that all the equipment for 48V is now VERY common, all the amperages you have to deal with are 1/4th that of 12V, the wiring sizes are 1/4th that of 12V, and most importantly, the heat generated from the equipment at 48V is 1/16th that of a 12V system. 48V is low-stress on everything. The charge controllers will barely even get warm. One last suggestion... fuse the batteries properly, and be generous with the DC breakers and disconnects. Make it easy to turn parts of the system off. And use double-pole breakers for everything. Don't just put a breaker on the "positive" of the solar DC in, for example. Also put it on the negative. Not only does this make working on the system a whole lot easier, but in situations such as a lightning storm passing through you really want to isolate as much of the pieces of the system from each other as possible. And don't forget the lightning / surge protection devices. Just electrically isolating the system won't protect the bits and pieces from lightning if you wind up with electricity dancing over the entire place! -Matt

[@offgridsolitude]

Interesting. 24v and 48v generate less heat. I will definitely look into that for next time.

[@gregyohngy]

People usually don't think about wire thickness. Having thicker wire, you lose less of your power going to your batteries. Of course, if you have excess production, then it's OK to waste it. I bought Windy Nation 8 awg MC4 cables, but my needs are far less than your own.

[@PeterLawton]

I would like to see more people do the math, when they're saying this wire is wasteful and that wire is not. As an EE, I certainly do understand the need to get the right size. If waste is half a percent, would people still care? If people don't do the math, how can they know?

[@NerdThingsAndMore]

Good info thanks

[@darkflux]

the reason people say "size higher than you need" is deeper than that. for example, you can't just "add more" to an existing array. HOW you wire things needs to change, which means you may end up having to retool, completely disassemble, or rebuild the entire array if you don't start big. there is also a MAXIMUM voltage and amperage that a charge controller/inverter can handle. the other reason is, even if you get 800W of solar panels, you WON'T be pulling 800W, except when the sun is hitting them DIRECTLY, which it is maybe 10% of the day. if you plan for MORE than you need, it won't be a major concern on the rare days when it's cloudy, too.

[@offgridsolitude]

Some good point. Thanks.

[@geezerindawoods]

Cool! Thanks

[@NYCamper62]

You warm weather Lithium guys 🙂. I'm sticking with agm for now. I'm a little jealous of all the solar hrs you get, compared to where I am in the woods. But I make it work. Good luck. Wondering what your going to do for water.

[@offgridsolitude]

Good point. I have to wait a couple hours after sunrise in winter for my batteries to warm up. I think the summer heat will be a bigger problem for me. The cooling fans on the charger and inverter run non-stop.

[@BecomingOffgrid]

​@@offgridsolitudeI'm in North Texas and while it was hot - nothing was ever outside of operational temperatures

[@junkerzn7312]

@@offgridsolitude Unfortuntely, this is an area where the choice of 12V can shoot you in the foot. At 24V or 48V, charge controllers (such as Victron) don't need much ventillation. Same with batteries. Charging or discharging a 24V or 48V battery usually generates almost no heat within the battery, making summer heat a non-issue. Also easy to remedy if it does, you just slap another battery on in parallel to reduce the C rate. Winter cold / below-freezing overnights and mornings, is also easily solvable by insulating the battery and then throwing in a little PTC heater or two. We're talking 5W or 10W PTC heaters... really tiny. It doesn't take much to keep the batteries warm if they are in an insulated container. A bit of automation is always good here to only turn on the PTC heater when it gets too cold, and to turn on a small ventilation fan when it gets too hot (if that winds up being an issue). Also avoid connecting the heaters directly to the batteries, you never want to be in a situation where a battery is drained all the way to BMS-shutdown. The simplest solution is to have two little heaters, one that runs directly off of one of the DC solar strings for morning recovery "just in case", and another that runs off of AC. 5W each. Inverter fan noise is often annoying no matter what one does. But cleaning up the noise everywhere else is easy. Most charge controllers... well, certainly Victron's, have a temperature sensor input that allows a temp sensor to be slapped onto the battery and can be programmed to not try to charge the battery if it is too cold. This is very important if cold conditions are possible and the battery does not have an internal low-temp charging shutdown feature (most don't), because it doesn't take much to destroy the battery if you try to charge it in very cold temps. Fully automating this stuff adds complexity but is incredibly convenient. -Matt

[@dougwilson8274]

WATER should be 1st but you most likely need solar to get it where you need it!

[@dlansburg2673]

In the process of installing my second system,my first runs lights and fridge,next will run coffee maker and microwave.Propane heat and cook stove and I’m good. Thanks

[@offgridsolitude]

Nice!

[@epluribusunum1907]

Usually12v = 1000w of max solar input, 24v = 2000w solar input, 48v = 4000-8000w solar input. 24v batteries w/BMS used are cheaper than 12v. 48V can usually support 3000-13000w pure sine out continuous. (25-106Amps) with 1-2 parallel units. A mini split can do heating and cooling very well. I no longer needed a propane heater or stove or tank after getting enough solar. The next big thing is to figure out how to create 2.5-20+ gallons of potable water, per day, during sunlight, without drilling a well (atmospheric water generation) in the 115F hot desert, without putting much load on battery at all. I'm thinking centrifugal compressor or dehumidifiers in parallel during day time.

[@offgridsolitude]

There is a size limit. My workaround was to split up my solar needs into multiple systems. But increasing voltage is a good way to go, too

[@epluribusunum1907]

@@offgridsolitude Not a bad setup for 12v, but you will want to run continuous loads at times in the future, like a minisplit with a fridge/freezer or combined with an electric cooker or air fryer or kettle. Might as well plan a second system to power at least a cabin or RV (24-48v). You can buy used but really good 250w monocrystalline panels, ideally SunPower at SanTan Solar (Gilbert/Mesa) for $70-$80 a piece. Cheaper 250w panels are about $50. I personally found 2kw solar can power laptop, 12k minisplit, air fryer, kettle, heat pump, fridge freezer, music, cell phone on **almost all days in Arizona / California desert. I want 3-4kw solar for the cloudy days or high-energy usage days. 100w = ~400w solar storage per day. ~800w = 800x4= ~3200w give or take on average days. If you are gonna off-grid full-time, plan to use 8-12kw+ unless you want to be very frugal with power (meaning turning it on and off, which sucks). Use Batteryhookup website for LifePO4 batteries too. Hope this helps you save a few hundred in the future.

[@billm5433]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on solar. I’m in my mid 70’s. I have property in Southern Colorado with an elevation of 7600’. Winter temperatures can go to -40F. I’m in the process of designing a small 16’X40’ home. 1 bedroom, 1 bath, kitchen, living room, utility/laundry room. I will be single and really don’t need family/friends staying overnight. (Motels/hotels are 30 minutes away). I will be using propane stove and furnace. Probably have a wood burning stove. I would like to use led lights. We were full times in our RV for 18 years until my wife became ill. She has Alzheimer’s and probably won’t last 3-5 more years. (We live in Florida so she can be near her daughter, grandchildren, & 4 great grandchildren). I’m her full time caregiver. My property 2 1/2 acres already has a house that can be rented out for income. Plus there are 2 railroad boxcars there for storage. Right now the insurance and taxes are $1,000 a year. At this time I’m gathering information and ideas, I want to be off the power grid. New Year’s Eve 2021, the power company shut off the power at 11 pm and didn’t turn it back on for a few days, because of a fire in Boulder Colorado, that burned 500 homes. It was -40 and people and water pipes in their homes & businesses froze. Hospitals used emergency generators. I have to stay busy or the situation would drive me crazy. 😂😂

[@offgridsolitude]

The power in Tucson goes out every storm. The grid is more fragile than they admit. Colorado sounds great.

[@billm5433]

@@offgridsolitude It is a nice place. Taxes are reasonable and the insurance isn’t bad.

[@billm5433]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences with us.

[@richardlemonjr.7984]

Nice I just subscribed and look forward to more

[@offgridsolitude]

Thank you.

[@eeghtitelukintan2948]

great...congrat

[@purepitch2257]

i cant * BELIEVE * it is that simple , & that cheap ! !

[@MoizCOUK]

I have same kinda situation here in Pakistan, too much sun , unreliable power from power compny , there is daily power outage for hours or when ever there is rain or storm and stupid high price on bills I baught 6 x 560w longi himo6 panels they were like $1000 here spent about $1000 on a 3kw off-grid inverter and 2x talltubler ledacid battries of 230ah each to hold the power for night incase of storms Same system might cost more in usa but still it can save alot in energy costs and power outages if you are not in big city

[@offgridsolitude]

Sounds like a good system.

[@JouniKyyronen-nv1ep]

solar is good for cottages or secondary for lights and small power, then u need 2000watts from grid

[@offgridsolitude]

Solar can be scaled up. But you're right; there are limitations. I wouldn't try welding off solar, for example.

[@pstoneking3418]

12 volt is fine except if you need 240 volt AC you'll need minimum 24 volt system. I may be wrong but I don't believe they make a 240 output 12 volt input inverter.

[@offgridsolitude]

Yeah, I agree. I wasnt going to even try for 240. if I need it for spot welding or something, Ill run my generator

[@DaveSquibbSr]

It is good to be cautious, but what I have found is a lot of people on KZbin don't really know what they're doing even though they pretend they do therefore they tend to overdo things and be way more cautious than you need to be and by doing so their project usually cost twice as much to build then it needs to be The number one sign of a rookie is someone that overthinks and overdoes things.

[@fgregerfeaxcwfeffece]

My favorite complaint is: "It takes an eternity to pay for itself!" Or: How to tell me that you have never had to use a generator without telling me that you never used a generator. All the people who have used a generator are creaming their pants about how cheap solar has become. Because now the generator can power the entire house instead of just a few things because it just has to cover what the solar doesn't.

[@offgridsolitude]

Prices have really come down. And it looks like theyre continuing to fall. Its wonderful!

[@5400bowen]

I do disagree that buying the cheapest gear is best. Although some of it is as good or better than the hyped present so called "brand names", which are all still too new and changing to be looked at that way, the only way to avoid colossal overspending is to learn about the gear. But here it becomes a giant task of sifting through mountains of inane or barely applicable material to find the right info. I have spent hundreds of hours pouring over product details, solar DIY videos and searching the web. You cannot get this info in school or in books because it is too new still. It doesn't;t hurt that I grew up wit electricity and electronics so I had a pretty good start. But with the new gear constantly changing and all the money grabbers jumping on the bandwagon, it is a thick jungle to get through.

[@offgridsolitude]

I am a believer in doing my own research and choosing what is right for me. Research can be a lot of work and stressful. but Id probably do it even if all the info was laid out for me. lol Good luck on your solar journey.

[@ralphnewcomejr]

Yeah,ok...The real question is how long does this work before components start to FAIL???

[@offgridsolitude]

Good question. Will any of these lithium barreries really last 5000 cycles. I sort of doubt it, regardless of brand or quality.

[@47alpha62]

My advice start directly with 48 v sistem you'll understand why soon took me 8 years off-grid with all kind of 12v type of inverters and chargers and lead acid batteries to make me see the truth 48v rules 😅

[@offgridsolitude]

You're right. My system is very small now, but as I scale up, I'll probably switch to 24 or 48v

[@powerwall]

off grid, great

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks!

[@marcellotifon3635]

Do you need a permit to have a do it yourself solar panels for your own use like having lights on your land?

[@offgridsolitude]

It really depends on the city or county. Every place is different

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

HOWdy O-G-S, ... 12 volt system ? 24 volt ? 48 volt seems more efficient ? ... I built my TILT ( INDIANA ) to 45 degrees ... (because this "angle" was built into my FRAMING Square - LOL ) ... & was close to my WINTER requirements ... & Summer SUN was not a problem ... Thanks ... COOP ... the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...

[@offgridsolitude]

Good point. Summer sun is strong enough for the tilt not to matter too much. So focusing on the winter tilt is smart

[@USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity]

52,000Wpv, 210kWh diy LFP, Totally Off Grid 18 mo. Enjoy.

[@offgridsolitude]

Nice!

[@dougwilson8274]

How the Hell did you afford that? I am truly jealous.... I have 1200 watts and 5k. lucky you.

[@WesternIronwoks]

You are very wrong about that all pieces are the same no matter the brands. Goto will prowse's youtube channel and he will show you how wrong you are. I admit solar panels from one brand to another are very similar but batteries and electronics are very different and its not about spending alot of money because EG4 for example has very good stuff.

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks.

[@claytonyoung1351]

The shock joke wasn't funny.

[@offgridsolitude]

lol. Thanks for watching!

[@claytonyoung1351]

@offgridsolitude it made my wife laugh though.

[@bloodcarver913]

You should have spent a lot more time getting familiar with products and quality levels in solar. One factory and all is the same? ROFL. Going with 12V in this day and age is kind of stupid. 48V is the right choice. You will have a rude awakening along the way. /popcorn,

[@offgridsolitude]

Thanks for watching.