Is Turbo Miata the Answer?

[@outthiswrldproductions3737]

Love the vids guys keep it up!!!

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks for the encouragement Armen!!!

[@Mok_26]

I think if you plan on tracking the car at all, Naturally aspirated is really the only option. The person at the track who has the most fun is always the guy who does the most laps, not the 400hp turbo car sitting in the pits fighting issues. Best of both worlds is a k24a2 swap.

[@NappMotorsports]

I think we are all in agreement with this entire comment hahaha

[@joelavallee3074]

100%. I’d love to see a K24 swap with itbs and some headwork…..

[@timeatak5248]

Completely agree. However, if engine cooling (oil, water, inlet temp) is managed well then a turbo is not an issue. Also don’t run very high boost. Finally, run E85 or race gas mix at the track to manage detonation for heat control. A 2.5L is easier and has more headroom than a K24 for ease of install. People always add power without proper cooling leading to issues. In this vid he doesn’t look like he has hood louvers=poor cooling.

[@nickwild7]

Obviously it's personal experience. My 256/229 190k+ Miata did perfectly fine with no issues with 3 years of track and DD abuse.... Now it's making 400 with a 2860 and it's still just as reliable but it took a few months to get it all together. For oil temps I stuffed a 19row with -10 lines in the bumper corner and ditched the oil balancer. I always show up to the track with a trailer just incase something happens though lol For seal leaks I ditched the PCV setup and have a dual -10 breather setup and it's stopped pushing oil past the seals. I tried like 6 different valves and all are shit imo.

[@WorstPaperCut]

expensive. Honestly, if anyone has a vvti engine. Just get a megasquirt tune for 91. 150WHP. Will only cost you like $1300 total. You can get a bit more if you tune for E85.

[@RogerWyatt365]

Just my $0.02: Everything you said is accurate. Getting into a turbo Miata can be a huge pain in the derrière. BUT if "you" are willing to endure the pain, you just might come out the other side with a different outlook on the entire process and possibly a re-evaluation of what's important to you. I've gone through just about every stage of Miata-dom; stock, M45 supercharged, FM kit, DIY aggregation and multiple rebuilds. Where I'm at now is "borderline race car" - and I'm not done yet. (Here comes the "re-evaluate" part) Once upon a time, I wanted a fun, cheap sports-car that I could drive around without having to think about it. Now, I've devolved(?) into a power-hungry, performance-at-all-costs maniac. My car is loud, uncomfortable, vibrates like a paint-shaker, occasionally leaks noxious fumes and is generally not ready for prime time - but I drive it every day (and wrench on it every weekend) and I wouldn't trade it for anything and I won't drive anything else. And when I break something in it and have to drive my wife's Lexus, something inside me dies a little. So what's the point? If you want to be a normal human being, DON'T turbo your Miata (don't modify it at all). You will regret it eventually because it will not be a reliable, comfortable, sensible vehicle. But if you - like me - want to challenge yourself and accept the consequences of your decisions, then...welcome to the club.

[@NappMotorsports]

I like these thoughts. Im after everything with as little compromise as possible. Does that mean NA, Im not sure. I feel like we should be able to get a turbo setup where I'd like it but time will tell.

[@gvandiv1]

I watched this while sitting in my garage at the Glen. I’ve been staring at overboost error codes all weekend. Not a Miata but thinking of the simpler days of NA engines. Dealing with all the issues you talked about in this video I think you honestly know what you need to do, you just don’t want to give up on that original turbo goal. Good luck. Hoping to see you in the garage next to me next year!

[@NappMotorsports]

Sorry your weekend isn’t going as planned, Greg! I think you’re right, we’ll see what this winter brings once we think on it for a bit. Can’t wait to turn some laps with you guys next year on track though!

[@occamsracer]

Part of a Miata’s charm is the lack of power, patting the center console and urging the car to go faster; “C’mon baby, let’s GO!” Motor swaps and turbos may be faster, but IMO, it’s missing the point of a Miata. A perfectly tuned 150 hp 1.8 is the sweet spot. You know this, you just lost your way. If you want more entertainment, use all-season tire. Now ITBs might be a fun challenge, but I’d personally put that time and money into track time. Great video!

[@NappMotorsports]

This is the most simple, cheapest, and lest stressful option. With a house purchase on the horizon, it might be the best move. 😃

[@johntechwriter]

I’m on my fourth MX-5, some taken to extreme states of tune, and I appreciate this guy’s honesty. The nicest setup I’ve driven that is both trackable and real-world drivable is a friend’s 2019 ND2 Club, stock powertrain, and the suspension upgraded with stiffer sway bars and a premium coil-over kit using Ohlins shocks. For back-road sport driving the car is incredibly responsive, and thanks to the upgraded 181 hp engine and close-ratio 6-speed, this car does not feel underpowered. (Car & Driver report 0-60 in 5.7, 1/4 mile in 14.4, 140 mph.) Body roll is pretty much eliminated yet the suspension remains very compliant and comfortable even on California’s trashed secondary roads. I wouldn’t change a thing.

[@NappMotorsports]

Nice, the NC we drove impressed us both. I could see it being a great do everything platform.

[@jamesm001]

140 mph trap speed??! more like 95 lol, still no slouch but definitely isnt trapping 140

[@panamera53]

​@NappMotorsports My dad knows ppl that have Naturally Aspirated Miatas. All they've done is a nice set of tires, brake kit, suspension, and sway bars. On a track the ND2 Miata outruns most cars with 400+whp on a racetrack or autocross setup.😊

[@2Soy]

I have a 300 whp rotrex miata. Highly recommend the supermiata sport clutch. Its engagement is like stock Light and easy to modulate couldnt be happier. And it can hold 290ft pounds of torque.

[@NappMotorsports]

Nice! Thanks for the recommendation!

[@2Soy]

@@NappMotorsports also my vote is you to switch to a high compression c30-94 rotrex with e85. Instant throttle response and na like torque

[@nehok]

Rotrex would be sweet but from what I can see they only last so long before they need replacing.

[@1knowsnothing1]

Ha, I basically just said the same thing before I read this. I’m pretty sure I’m going Rotrex now that TDR has surpassed the 300 whp mark. There’s no E85 where I live so I’ll probably have to go meth.

[@Flozby1]

How is the clutch holding up? And are you 300whp stock 1.8?

[@Michel]

I have a NA with VVT engine and Jenvey ITB's. It's so much fun and reliable.. can just hammer on it any time I want. No nightmares and thinking about when it'll let you down next time.. you'll love it.

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts Michel. I’m really surprised about all the love ITBs are getting in the comments. It seems like they have a larger fan base then I thought.

[@4cyl]

How hard was it to tune itbs

[@Izanami2442]

Thanks man I’ve just began tracking my Miata and I think your absolutely right I’d hate to have it be forced to work on my car all the time as you said. I think I’ll stick to NA and maybe swap to a 1.8 VVT in the future

[@NappMotorsports]

Nice. Can’t recommend the VVT NA swap enough.

[@bigtymeclutch5294]

I have had my 215whp turbo 97’ as a daily and track car with no real issues over the past 7k miles. Only part that I broke so far was a Wideband sensor. I’m planning later this year to go up to 250whp which I have been told is still a very reliable setup but this videos is kind of making me look back.

[@NappMotorsports]

Resources say 250whp is fairly safe for the bottom end. My issues have mainly been around sorting out the setup itself. You might not run into this as much since you had your turbo setup for a while.

[@juztinking8813]

I'm at 257whp and 208wtq at 12psi on 91 octane on my VVT. The engine is at its reliable limit but you'll max out your fuel system and drivetrain before your block throws a rod at this power level.

[@lizardsmann4810]

@@juztinking8813 do you actually ring the cars neck though? or do you live in the US and drive in strait lines for short bursts.

[@ryanconforti3529]

A lot of recommendations for a k swap in here and frankly I don’t see the value unless you do want to turbo it or go full blown ITBs and fall down the same rabbit hole that you would with a BP…only difference is you’re spending tons of money and time up front just to get the power plant in the car. A k24Z3 is making 209whp right out the gate with just the kpower kit and your 10k. Or stick with the BP, spend less, have more options for N/A bolt-on modifications, and in the case of Quinn at 192whp; get within a stones throw of what the K24 is making with arguably the same reliability. I think the answer is pretty obvious. We need more ITB miatas in the states. Great video as always

[@NappMotorsports]

You my friend, have me nearly convinced. I need to let it stew a bit. Also, when did Quinn get to 192whp? Last I checked he was around 180whp. 190s on an NA BP is crazy!

[@ryanconforti3529]

@@NappMotorsports a couple years ago when he went to a 0.100” head skim and minor port work (stock valve diameter though)

[@biggboysouth]

@@NappMotorsports Luckily there has been some awesome discoveries and advancements in N/A building for these engines in the last few years, a big part in favor to Quinn. 170whp and 180whp on stock bottom ends are becoming normal and are essential repeatable formulas anyone can follow. I for see a boom in the next few years as I've noticed a big uptick in interest for ITB miatas. I will not be surprised to see 200whp N/A builds becoming much more common as the aftermarket starts developing more N/A specific parts for these cars. I'm really wishing for someone to develop an aftermarket head with similar or more flow than a K series. That will make the K and other motor swaps obsolete if this engine with upgraded head could produce upwards of 250whp. Think of it from a cost perspective as well. I doubt a aftermarket head would cost half of what it cost to swap a different motor into the car and the install would be light years more simple. If you're interested in an awesome build for proof please look up a user called "Thomas Gee" on mx5nuts as well as the MX5 ITB face book group. He's an average joe who spent honestly an abnormal amount of his personal time researching BP head flow design and has built his own flow bench to test his theory's. All his hard work paid off as just yesterday he posted the dyno figures to his current build (ITB full build) and it was impressing. 267hp and 200+ lbs at the flywheel achieved below 8k rpm. Very detailed documentation over on mx5nuts. I think it was called sr2 roadrunner build or something like that.

[@Kraid07]

Yo dude, our community at the Nürburgring has been telling exactly this to people wanting to Turbo their Miatas. I dont doubt that you can eventually make them reliable if you take care of all of these issues that keep springing at you out of nowhere, and by the time you are done you've spent so much that you should have considered other options. Also you don't want an issue to happen on lap 1 of a trackday that cost you half a grand. I've wasted my money on a couple of 1.6'es and just recently a 1.8 + cams + ITB + header etc, and its just too slow and underwhelming. My suspicion is this is partly due to the absolutely terrible and unfixable intake runner design in the head. Anyway, so the lesson is DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY on these engines and just straight up switch the platform. We have someone with an LFX swap and this car has ridiculous power while being super reliable, and another with a K-swap going on. My personal project has been a 13B swap in another miata chassis for a while because I built a tiny simple ITB 12a for my RX7 and it pulls so much harder than anything those BP's could ever dream of. There are many options out there.

[@NappMotorsports]

Nice. Thanks for sharing your experience! The BP is a great option for a low power NA track car but if you want to crack 200whp reliably at the track I think you are right.

[@djmandrick]

No idea how i got here as I have neither a turbo car nor a miata. Great honest viewpoint though and nicely presented. I've sent this and the K swap video to a friend who was asking me about my EP3 I bought end of last year. Added some bits, and a rolling road remap. He is asking himself your very question - turbo or kswap for his MX5. Im sure he'll find these invaluable. I'd take a K all day long for reliability, power and round town fun with the remap to drop VTEC. 224BHP / 190WHP / 190 torque. Feels like a totally different car so can only imagine what that'd be like in an MX5 or with cams in it - eek!! Gonna check some more of your vids.

[@NappMotorsports]

Glad you found your way over here! And thanks for passing it on to your friend, love that!

[@sickmiatabra]

You already know how I feel! I just see modding miatas at investments. So it's either stay stockish and happy or swap (this is for the show/street/track car). Otherwise you're always chasing a tune issue or maintenance issue and time is priceless to me. I spent so many hours/days of my life playing on a laptop to make a setup decent. But overall, there is some success out there but it's muffled under the abundance of setups lol. Good video ❤❤❤

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks! I 100% agree with valuing time the way you do. I want to be enjoying the car more and cursing about issues less.

[@financeandoctane]

@@NappMotorsports sounds like you should just k swap haha. I like the idea of a twin screw k24

[@camphabenero]

1990 1.6 FM kit here. Megasquirt idle is just very flakey, FM happy meal has caused noise on deceleration that is very annoying. I run 12-13 psi of boost, and it is so much fun to drive. However I also think a the 180HP ITB maybe the ideal spot especially if you want to track a lot. The extra stress and complexity of turbo has me nervous about thousand mile road trips or track days. That being said I don't regret my project at all. The car always puts a smile on my face.

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks for the feedback and watching!

[@joelavallee3074]

Once it’s built you go yes! Turbo Miata! Then the real build begins fixing everything you didn’t think needed fixing but your new turbo mill has deemed insufficient. 3 years since mine came together and I still chase problems occasionally, first year was lots of chasing problems- like every 2-3 drives, but it does get better…..

[@NappMotorsports]

Good to know.

[@kyleneujahr]

I have a vvt swapped 96. running ms3, racing beat headers, rosdstersport 3 cat back, and a custom intake. I dyno'd at 151.6 and i love it. it absolutely rips. was debating going turbo, but right now i love what i've got naturally aspirated

[@NappMotorsports]

That’s why we’ve since sold this setup, and the car is getting a 2L BP with ITB’s.

[@thisreallysucksbig]

@@NappMotorsports wish I could give this a hundred thumbs up, going ITB this spring, been picking up the bits for the last years. Got a t3 manifold for blacktop itbs, the blacktops, vacuum rail, hoses and vacuum booster for 650 bucks.

[@miatamike93]

An ITB Miata is my dream so I would love to see an ITB build, whether its DIY or a kit like the Rev9 Jenvey kit.

[@NappMotorsports]

Nice, good to know. Thanks for your feedback. :)

[@ricepony33]

So I work in racing and I’m around a lot of different setups. The only cars that are truly reliable are NA or factory turbo setups with cooling improvements. I can count the number of aftermarket setups that work consistently on one hand.

[@NappMotorsports]

Have you seen any issues with ITB setups?

[@ricepony33]

That being said if you’re lusting for more than NA BP power the Rotrex setup is by far the best way to get there. I’ve tracked an FFS supercharger setup with water/meth and race gas and it just wasn’t very good at anything. I also had a set of Jenvey ITBS… honestly the BP doesn’t breath well enough to take advantage of them and if you think your car is compromised now… just wait.

[@ricepony33]

@@NappMotorsports Vacuum is the biggest issue, or lack there of. Also the tuning window from Zero throttle to Full is very narrow because of the amount of air they let in at part throttle, this means the resolution is less than a typical NA tune, effectively you have fewer zones to work with. Elevation can be a factor and gas mileage is also quite poor. From a street car perspective the car is significantly more compromised than stock or a typical boosted setup. On track they do work well but not significantly better than a single throttle car. They do sound cool and make some power, obviously responsive and part throttle power is improved... because it's closer to full throttle due to airflow. I love the concept, but the BP doesn't flow enough to really take advantage of them.

[@biggboysouth]

@@ricepony33 Not sure what you mean they don’t flow enough to utilize ITBs? If youre talking about a stock na 1.6 then you maybe right but a NB 1.8 does gain power using ITBs even over a skunk 2 intake, to me that means it flows enough. If you were expecting Honda K power then you were just being unrealistic. As for the tuning aspect it’s widely agreed upon that TPS aka alpha N is the most popular way to tune ITBs but MAP is also doable if you know what you are doing. There are simple ways increase an stabilize vacuum signal but most people don’t seem to know how or want to go through the hassle and just go the TPS route for ease and simplicity.

[@ricepony33]

@@biggboysouth I agree there is definitely power and good tuning options. I had a set of Jenvey’s. My main point was that the gains aren’t massive and if he’s already concerned about a compromised car, ITBS aren’t going to help.

[@ConnorsCorner1]

I WOULD say I have had no issues with my setup, but it's been turbo'd 8 months and I've only put 5000 miles on it. It's been on jacks more than it's been on the ground. I've spent countless hours tuning the car, and it's finally at a good reliable point where I feel comfortable driving it every day. I will say with a brand new 2560R, spool is insane and I have no issues with bearings. My FM happy meal is also great, its definitely grabbier than stock, but not bad at all. Very much a daily-able clutch setup. Recently I took the car apart because I thought I blew the headgasket. Car was drinking coolant, white smoke out the tailpipe, so I took the head off and had roughly $1200 parts on order to fix it and rebuild the head. Turns out some of the intake manifold hardware had backed out, specifically cyl 1 & 2, causing coolant to leak out of that jacket and into the ports in the head, had nothing to do with the head gasket. Still ended up rebuilding the head, MLS gasket, head studs, new water pump etc. RIGHT after that, heater core broke. Not necessarily related to the turbo, but this led me to pull the dash, which led me to doing a wire tuck, etc.

[@NappMotorsports]

Interesting. Coolant doesn’t come out of the intake manifold bolt locations, so I feel like it very well still could’ve been your head gasket. Either way, it’s fixed which is what matters.

[@ConnorsCorner1]

@@NappMotorsports On 1.6 Miata's there is a jacket btwn cyl 1 & 2 which goes to the TB. I THINK thats where the leak was. It was running down the side of the block as well as sitting in those 2 cylinders once I pulled the head.

[@roadsterdream]

I've got a 1.6T miata and kinda feel the same as you do man... Hard to say it but you're right. We are kind of "forced to work on the car" and it's kinda not that funny than just go to trackdays with the naturally aspirated lowpowered car, beat the heck out of them and at the end of the day jus go back home. Only thing I did was changing the wheels and tires...

[@NappMotorsports]

I’m sure after a bit of refinement, it becomes better, but it’s definitely not for everyone.

[@baltod4978]

This video earned my sub. I own a FM S1 NA8 and it's still on the FM piggy back- but I do have a PNP MS3, 640cc Injectors and GM Coils in a box I've got waiting to throw on it. I'm afraid that even after all that work/tuning and only being able to make possibly 250hp/tq out of it- all that cash has gone down the drain when compared to a K-Swap. Almost like I arrived to the the Boosted Miata party too late, and I'm just relegated to picking up empty pizza boxes and beer can's after the fact... just like almost everything else in life, lol.

[@NappMotorsports]

Trust me when I tell you the K swap isn’t all that

[@dham99]

I can say, I enjoyed my 91 SE N/A for a bit..but needed power. I like top end and being able to actually pass people. I put a big turbo set up on my 160k mile engine that had perfect compression. Made about 300rwhp on a completely stock 1.6L motor, which didnt really spool until about 4200rpm because the turbo was pretty big. Fun up top, but it had no bottom end fun. Started to smoke on decel after about 10k miles, thought it was possibly the turbo...bought a new one, few miles same issues. So i think I toasted my exhaust valve seals or something... removed the turbo set up to drive it N/A to see if it still smoked on decel, but car wouldnt run after i tried swapping the factory ECU and parts back in. FF to 6 years later a few weeks ago, i got her running. Has no power after 1st gear, now I know why i turbo'd it ^_^

[@NappMotorsports]

Back to turbo for you it sounds!

[@TheTamurai1]

Dang, I'm too far deep into my turbo build to turn back now. But this video has be second guessing myself lol

[@stancedsuki1999]

Same :/

[@NappMotorsports]

First off I am super picky, just ask Stefan he hates it lol. Second make sure your PCV system is working properly. Third, dont over buy on your clutch, looks like many people are recommending supermiata's organic clutch kit. Reach out to us on insta if you have any questions. :)

[@TheTamurai1]

You suggest to have a writing pcv system but I noticed Dylan's car deleted the pcv and he's got 2 breather hoses off the valve cover going to a vent to atmosphere can. What is his system doing wrong? There are so many pcv versus breather debates on Miata forums everywhere.

[@NappMotorsports]

We will discuss on Instagram. The photo of the PCV system in this video is setup properly.

[@DarkoVeselinovicc]

I have NA and Turbo, and I can say that turbo is much more drivable, and I enjoy it much more. I don't run a lot of HP, around 180 on the wheels but for sure it's much more fun then NA. And yes, I don't have a youtube channel :)

[@NappMotorsports]

I’m sure running less power definitely helps with reliability. Less strain on all of the parts means less risk of breaking stuff.

[@DarkoVeselinovicc]

@@NappMotorsports runing a safe map, did all needed upgrades and car just drives lovely as daily. and yes, didnt go with ebay stuff, instead bought a well tested turbo kit, dont want to advertise here in comment :)

[@dimosthenisioannou39]

I have one NB1 bp4w 1.8 stage one with standalone ms3 mini foully stainless 4-2 exhaust and cold intake and I enjoyed every day with no problems

[@NappMotorsports]

Simple reliable setup. Out track car will be similar to this. :)

[@Microwilli0]

I have a 1.6 and a 1.8 NB. And to be honest, even on the low end, Turbocharging IS the way to go. a turbo 1.6 drives so much nicer than a 1.8 and price-wise is about the same if you go for cheaper parts. Built a budget TD04 Turbo Kit running 7-8 PSi and is currently making 180 bhp at the flywheel and cost me 1500 Euros including Manifold, intercooler, turbo, ECU, wideband, exhaust system, injectors, clutch. compared to my 1.8 it is faster, more fun and the Sound of a turbo are a nice bonus on Top. And there is Potential to just bump up the boost to 12 PSI and around 220 bhp. just leaving it at 7-8 because it feels great and is reliable there

[@NappMotorsports]

Turbo is the choice for most that’s for sure but we will be going a different route on this setup.

[@Beardchanics]

Nice one, was the plan for ours but bless it, it hasn't progressed much in the last few months!

[@NappMotorsports]

What are ya waiting for?!

[@Beardchanics]

@@NappMotorsports Too many projects, mx5 was at shop to fix bonnet as I dropped a jack stand on it... So got my corvette back and then we've been covering a lot of event and currently buying a house, with double garage! So just been hard to find the time more than anything. I did get the wheels fully refurnished with fresh tyres though so it still got a little love :)

[@herecomesbrandon]

I could never go back to na.. I love my turbo setup no matter the issues. My 04 mazdaspeed has the trackspeed efr kit and megasquirt, built motor and all proper supporting mods. Low boost is 251/249 to the wheels with small injectors on 91. Love it so much. I'm building a vvt setup to eventually swap into it for that 450whp setup. Wish me luck 😂 For your clutch, I have had the clutch master 2.5 kit and it's been perfect. Great, normal drivability, and can handle the power. Even though it says 250 lb/tq, I have never had a problem and it'd about 5 years old

[@NappMotorsports]

Yeah. I expect stepping away from the turbo to be the unpopular option. Having a fast car is fun for sure but it seems I value simplicity and drivability more then raw power. Good luck hitting 450whp, that will be one wild ride.

[@ericsson_motorsports]

This is what most people don't talk about online, yes you can make a bunch of power on a budget by turbocharging the factory engine but it will never be as reliable as staying N/A or swapping in a more powerful engine like a K series. I was torn between a turbo or K swap for my car (not that I can afford to or have the skills to do either) but after hearing so much about the reliability of an N/A K series it seems like the best option for me if I do go down the road of more power since I want to be able to beat on my car on the track without worrying if my setup can take it or not. It's the old saying that a car can be reliable, fast and cheap but you can only pick two of them. Want a reliable and fast car? It won't be cheap. Want a cheap and fast car? It won't be reliable. For a 100% street car I would still go with a turbo for the low end power over an N/A K series since it's not being pushed that hard

[@NappMotorsports]

Yeah. I think this is exactly what Stefan and I learned this year.

[@doctranate]

Don't give up! Fix what you've built and give it an honest shot. Turn down the boost a hair for track duties. There's no reason why you shouldn't be able to lay down 200whp reliably on a turbo miata trackday car, many of us do it.

[@NappMotorsports]

Appreciate the motivation. We are leaning on working through the issues this winter.

[@koolerthanapolarbear]

dude, oil leaking out of brand new seals would annoy the crap out of me -_- . im currently piecing together a turbo kit for my nb1. will definitely look into PCV solutions. thanks for sharing.

[@NappMotorsports]

You bet!

[@j.deleon9338]

i just can enjoy one or two trackdays per year, because of i live on a island without track and i have to travel to do it. ive got a NA n/a miata and my friend has an NB VVT Turbo, and while he has to do a cooling lap every ONE FAST LAP, i was destroying my tires one hour and a half non stop...seriously. i drove one hour and a half (on a small track) no braking or engine issues. just enjoying. and im going to keep my VVT swap completelly "OEM" tho

[@NappMotorsports]

See this is the value of an n/a setup. That’s fantastic and sounds like such a fun time.

[@hillbillysportsman5818]

Thanks for your honesty……. I think I will keep my 02 miata motor mostly stock. I have the Flyin Miata suspension and enjoy driving it hard an not breaking things. I have had highly modified muscle cars an worked on them more than I got to drive them.

[@NappMotorsports]

That’s always the trade off it seems. More mods = more time fixing the car. Obviously eventually you can sort everything out, it’s just how much time you want to spend correcting all the details.

[@TheMeepCrewlilracerdude]

it must be a case by case basis on your problems. My 1994 has been turboed with a bell engineering/flyinmiata kit since somewhere between 1996 and 1998. The only large fix done to my knowledge has been a head gasket. Other than that the car with all the late 90s tech has been running boosted at 13lbs for over 65k miles on the original stock motor. In my ownership ive blown apart the trans within the first 2 weeks. But they are cheap enough that i have now 2 spares for less than 50 bucks. Ive taken her on multiple hours of trips and highway temps are never high. Id like to re vamp the car because I don't trust the boost controller or miata link ecu from the 90s but there is nothing wrong and I daily it during the summer months.

[@NappMotorsports]

It does seem to be fairly case by case. I’m sure we could sort this over another season or two but at that point I don’t think the power is worth the constant headache. We’ve got something else lined up for this car that we are way more excited about.

[@AkaRyrye83]

On my first turbo, a 1.6L with gt2554, I did a 6 puck also, which I also completely regreted ... Later on a 1.8 turbo build (gt2860 that time), I used an ACT pressure plate with an organic disc. It was the perfect setup, great drivability, never slipped. However, I did regret getting the bigger turbo. Sure, it made more power, but was too peaky for me. I preferred the fast spool, lower threshold of the 2554 and would even consider going even smaller if I did it again ... But, I really dont think I will. In the end, after those two, I got an NB99 and left the motor stock. I actually enjoyed it every bit as much, if not more. Its just different. I've been miata-less for 5 years now, but finally looking at getting another soon. It will almost certainly be naturally aspirated, with a focus on handling. If anything, I would consider higher compression and some bolt-ons.

[@NappMotorsports]

Over clutching and over turbo-ing are both things that will ruin the experience for you.

[@nolahahnshouse3389]

I just finished putting a flyinmiata clutch on my miata..just have to finish putting everything back together

[@NappMotorsports]

Nice! That’s definitely a solid choice.

[@spazda_mx5]

I kind of feel going NA on the standard engine is a bit of an uphill battle, you spend all the money and go to all the effort and it throws out 180hp. And when you're done you have something that's not one of the great four cylinder NA engines in the way a K or B series Honda is. Personally I'd stick with the turbo and try to make it work, or if you're over it put a different engine in, maybe a Honda J32 V6 if they can be done on a budget?

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks for the feedback. I think my true NA setup would be 300whp from an LS. I might run this and just save my pennies...

[@bugman043]

Personally, I would try and sort out the teething issues first, you have that setup done so I wouldn't totally disregard it yet. That being said, I am dying to build an na bp4w/itb setup, I have not driven a turbo mx5 but I've gotten a spin in a couple and they are good fun but I drove my mates itb setup and it is just fantastic, 170 hp maruha cams and a very mild port, he did build it similarly to quinns and I think I'll be doing the same, it's hard to beat the absolute roar of a good itb setup and as you say it should be very reliable, I'd love to see that build

[@NappMotorsports]

I think we are leaning giving it another shot next year and work through some issues this winter. Thanks for the feedback!

[@RydogGaming2002]

On my bp05 I’m running 17psi of boost and so far I haven’t had any turbo related reliability issues, granted I haven’t taken it to a track yet but I have a lot of hard miles on it and even being that it’s an eBay turbo, it’s ran great

[@NappMotorsports]

Thats awesome to hear! Seems like people have different results and I cant point out any specific reason as to why. Personally Ill be going a different direction this winter.

[@pj_morrison]

Oh gosh, I hope I don’t run into these troubles😭I just got mine running

[@NappMotorsports]

Just slowly work through the kinks and you’ll get it sorted. I think we could’ve gotten this going just fine, but we decided to switch directions ourselves.

[@jaybeezy5986]

Man I’m glad I haven’t experienced these issues with either of my Turbo NA cars. I swapped in a BP4W and all has been flawless. I do agree, turbo and track days can be hit or miss due to heat and trying to keep it cool. I street drive and autox mine and have not had one issue in 2.5 years.

[@NappMotorsports]

Cooling is the most important and difficult part of building a reliable boosted track car.

[@jaybeezy5986]

@@NappMotorsports I discovered that at my first track day almost two years ago. Two laps at WOT and I had to cool down. Made it three once I realized my intercooler was blocking a lot of the air coming in. So I added some minor ducting to direct some air towards the radiator and around the intercooler. Love the channel.

[@ndout4arip]

Went through hell with adding a turbo to a 2016. At 15+ PSI and 302+ wheel ft-lb right now, but not giving up

[@NappMotorsports]

I think if the turbo stays, it’ll just need a couple more iterations before it’s truly reliable.

[@miatasta8521]

thank you for this very honest video! I just finished my vvt swap NA last month and I'm more confident than ever to go ITB after watching this. I really appreciate your honesty! TY

[@NappMotorsports]

You bet! Happy to help.

[@qleap99]

I so feel your pain. Similar experience with my car (a honda) from NA to turbo 15 years ago. Super fun, a now-rare, clean, moderately fast 90s car that gets it's share of thumbs up but spends equal amounts of driving and down time. Three rebuilds later, still constantly chasing oil leaks and fighting insane overheating in the summers and I've come to the conclusion that I would never recommend turbocharging an NA motor. If you want modified turbo power, start with a factory turbo car.

[@NappMotorsports]

Turbo kits take refinement and a lot of painful attention to detail, they can be made to be awesome and reliable.

[@ema1671]

Sucks that you are facing all those issue with the car. I would suggest swapping the clutch for sure. N/A or Rotrex if you want reliability from a track car. I remember doing a ton of research on the subject while my NB still sits in the garage. The amount of issues turbos have if not done correct was not worth the hassle. I have read everything from warped manifolds, leaking seals, leaking exhaust, lose bolts, spool issues, waste gate issues, bearings..... People complain that Rotrex doesn't make turbo power but Rotrex also won't make turbo issues so there's that. My advice would be to tear the engine down, maybe blue print the engine because it might have internal issues you didn't notice.

[@NappMotorsports]

I like your line "People complain that Rotrex doesn't make turbo power but Rotrex also won't make turbo issues". Thanks for sharing your experiences!

[@hjsckd]

I’m at the same exact point as you with overheating issues at track and a smockibg chra. If I don’t find the way soon I will remove the turbo kit and spend some money on a nice bolts on N/A setup.

[@NappMotorsports]

Hmmmmm. Any idea what oil temp can you damage the CHRA?

[@mattwiser7982]

I track my turbo car and that is always when I question wether or not I should have gone boosted. I’m waiting for the day that something happens and I can’t drive it home. Naturally aspirated is the way to go for a track car IMO

[@NappMotorsports]

Couldn’t agreed more. If we didn’t already have an NA track car build under way my turbo parts would be up for sale.

[@christianzinn7636]

Try a Center Force clutch!!! They hook up, BUT they feel like BUTTER!!! I have been using them since the early 1980's and Never had ANY issues at all. I'm 63 and have been modifying cars since 16, you can trust me. You Will thank me. It has puzzled me as to why Miata people are not using these clutches. The other thing is that the Miata community doesn't use Jet Hot Coatings. Their coatings Lower engine bay temps GREATLY!!!

[@NappMotorsports]

Go to know! All the exhaust parts have been ceramic coated. Also have a coolant reroute. Still had oil temps over 240 on the highway before I installed the oil cooler.

[@philjones5728]

Dylan, it's a shame that you feel that your set up is not providing you confidence in the car but 250hp turbo set ups can be reliable. Perhaps the engine is not in the best condition or has some hidden niggles and this leads to a whole host of issues that just make you feel negative about the driving experience. (Yes, a pucked clutch is not really streetable with 250hp. I run a full face sprung organic clutch with similar power levels to you and its feels like OEM). ITB's would be a good project but I think that now you have experienced 250+hp and loads of torque the peaky ITB output will not bring you the satisfaction you crave. This winter is a great opportunity to consider your options and give your turbo set up a few tweaks to get it reliable. I run a journal bearing TD04 on a 1991 stock 1.6 with 12psi, oil cooler, coolant reroute, ali radiator and have zero heat issues with coolant or oil (5W-50 Castrol) on track or on the street and no turbo lag (I don't even have vents in the hood/bonnet!). So there's no reason why you can't achieve the same reliability and drivability with your car. I would suggest: 1. Definitely swap out the clutch for an organic full face unit (as it is so integral to an enjoyable driving experience). 2. Swap in a non-leaky stock engine with good compression test results (as yours seems to have gremlins). 3. Keep the GT2560R (unless yours is a dud), as it is known to be a great unit, and do a refurb' on it to make sure all is OK internally. Perhaps even take the oil feed from somewhere else? 4. Run a better PVC set up to ensure minimum crankcase pressure - I run both outlets on the cam cover to a catch can and vent to atmostphere, with the PCV inlet port on the cam cover capped off. I get a few teaspoons of blow by in the can after a track day. OK, the engine swap seems like overkill (and is the most expensive and time consuming option) but it will remove all the doubts you have about it and give you chance to swap in a full face sprung clutch. The other items are easily sorted. Love the videos btw. Keep them coming....

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks! 1. 100% doing this! Thanks for the recommendation. 2/4. I think we've worked through this because we sorted out the PCV, if it comes to needing to swap the engine, I'll do my best to put something other then a BP back in. 3. Yeah, not going any bigger than the GT2560R. It already spools slower than I would like now that its a different CHRA. Granted, this is kind of a net positive because it will be less stressful on the engine.

[@mitchellmadduck8810]

Have you guys done a widebody kit installation or review vid? I was thinking about getting the rocketbunny kit, but I want to be sure it's Napp approved! :)

[@NappMotorsports]

We have not! I’ve had flares on 2 of my cars and I love the look, and the ability to fit some serious rubber. We haven’t gotten our hands on a rocket bunny kit, but I will always at heart be a stance kid, and I’m a sucker for an RB kit.

[@miatafan]

The BP head just doesn’t flow enough to justify ITBs. It can barely flow a ported squaretop and 64mm throttle body. ITBs bring almost 4x extra volume, great on a K series that can gulp it in at 9000rpm. but you loose the higher velocity achieved with a traditional intake and torque on a BP. ITBs also don’t sound like ITBs if you are going to run a filter(kinda required if you want it to last), and ducted air inlet (a plenum) The difference is you have to DIy or pay for every part and piece. To get a setup with less technical engineering than a squaretop and stock intake tube

[@NappMotorsports]

Seems like the highest power Ma setups are ITB based. That said most are still under 200whp. The engine is definitely old technology.

[@1knowsnothing1]

You said you’re running VVT, an oil cooler, as well as a turbo right? You may have low oil pressure getting to the turbo. Usually the boundary oil pumps are shimmed to give you extra oil pressure. You would need a shimmed pump with all the oil-required features your car has. I’m strongly considering going 2.0 McCully Racing block and Rotrex. I’m tired of wrenching on turbo cars and I’d sacrifice some low end to not have to put a ZF trans in. With TDR now getting over 300 whp out of their kits…no heat issues and keep your stock trans? Might still win out over K24. Just saying.

[@NappMotorsports]

You might be right with the turbo and oil cooler, but we never saw low oil pressure. We’re going 2.0 as well, just with ITB’s instead of forced induction.

[@1knowsnothing1]

@@NappMotorsports Very Cool! Can’t wait to see how it turns out. Quinn’s setup is proven. Keep up the great work.

[@ethanschocke333]

Im not entirely sure, the mazdaspeed miata is probably the most enjoyable car ive ever owned or driven. But then again were talking stock to full race car comparison. There are bone stock(engine wise) vvt turbo miatas with pnpms3 ecu's that just run flawlessly, but thats a commodity. I agree with your thought process here though. I remember my basiest of base model chevy cobalt 5spd sedan, absolute beater. But the most enjoyment ive gotten out of a car, i have now completely swapped the suspension and done everything i can aside from changing to forced induction and it just doesnt have that beater enjoyment anymore. Still an absolutely phenomenal daily that get 45mpgs off the limiter through the california coastal twisties, but just different.

[@NappMotorsports]

Very easy to go too far and ruin an already great car.

[@jimmywilliamson8540]

From what I've heard, the transmissions are quite durable out. Of course, you can do a lot of work or replacement. When you do an engine swap and 3 liters, 6 cylinders seem to be a really good way to get an NA engine that works. More talk more horsepower and some examples add little to no weight. But of course, as we know now, with proper suspension and break upgrades, it's not a real issue. Some people go crazy with weight distribution and even start to put lead Is fishing weights in the bumpers for corner balancing, etc.

[@NappMotorsports]

5 speeds are good for 250, 6 speeds are good for 350

[@1993ka24det]

I'm looking for more power than the 1.8 vvt in my Exocet. I would love a spooly Boi to listen to and to overcome the high-speed drag. My current weight is around 1475lbs and looking for more weight loss.

[@NappMotorsports]

Turbo VVT in an Exocet would be awesome

[@christianzinn7636]

I have considered ITB's But they are not easy either especially for the street. On top of that it takes very deep pockets to get them close to right. Watch the flyin' miata post on ITB's that Kieth did first. I think ITB's are Very Cool, but not that reliable. Why are there so many used ones for sale??? Perhaps Greg has the best idea and that is Nitrous???

[@NappMotorsports]

Hmmmmm now Im second guessing ITB's. If both setups arent very reliable I'd rather just have the power.

[@ryanconforti3529]

Not true at all. They are incredibly reliable. Frankly I don’t know where the “unreliability” rumor stemmed from it really is just an intake manifold swap after all. I daily drove mine for about a year even through the winter. Never had an issue or a reason why I couldn’t get to work

[@Michel]

Not sure why ITB's would be unreliable.. I have no problems whatsoever with mine. Countless of laps on track (Nordschleife) and abuse on the street.

[@al123j]

Just got rid of my turbo setup and going VVT ITBS too! Turbo was boring af, took all the fun out of going fast. I'm looking at putting together a cheap setup with some Nissan Pulsar Gtir itbs

[@NappMotorsports]

Hell yeah!

[@mr.adventure559]

I DEFINITELY want to see an ITB build. I thought about turbo but heard too many complaints about reliability issues, heat, and lag. I'm thinking the Kraftwerks supercharger kit would be a good idea.

[@NappMotorsports]

Nice. Good things to think about.

[@Ericbuyslunch]

In all seriousness, I rode in Greg's car when it was at something around 250wheel and it genuinely felt like more than enough power to me for the car. That being said I'm sure his car is absolutely insane now, and am excited to see it next time I'm back home in SoCal.

[@Ericbuyslunch]

you could also get the CARB legal supercharger. I've driven a 1.8 with it and it was very peppy and reliable

[@NappMotorsports]

This car is going a much cooler route in our opinion.

[@Ericbuyslunch]

@@NappMotorsports I subbed so im excited to see where it goes. I owned an NA miata for like half a year and it was a very fun car

[@imisai3096]

So I have a mostly custom turbo kit 1.8 vvt. 2867rs, 10 psi, making about 235. If you arent somebody who is able to constantly tweak and chase issues, you will have issues

[@NappMotorsports]

This is correct. It’s not a one stop shop.

[@lindkvistandreas]

supercharger (eaton-style!!!! )!.. it is as close to the NA-character but just feels like you have a bigger engine.. i can really recomend it!.. (not for high horsepower but for the expanded area "under the curve")..

[@NappMotorsports]

Hmmmmm. Yeah supercharger is the move if I want to stick with force induction long term. I just don’t like the ideal of running two throttle bodies.

[@lindkvistandreas]

@@NappMotorsports i ran with only one tb in original location with working iac, using the SC like a turbo, it works very well as long as you use a BOV (the jackson racing i had kit includes an internal bypass even).. but you need to like the SC whine.. it will be there all the time (was very enjoyable :D)..

[@mdbbox5660]

@@NappMotorsports This is why you get a coldside supercharger. I've had one on my 97 for 12 years and over 50k miles (and the kit I bought was used). Yeah, I only make about 190whp, but it tracks fine, has a flat torque curve, and drives like stock. As long as you're okay with the power level, it's a fantastic setup with no maintenance or gauge monitoring needed.

[@john_dee1431]

Eye opener. Appreciate the candor.

[@NappMotorsports]

You bet. Turbo Miata’s are great but it’s not all sunshine and rainbows for everyone.

[@john_dee1431]

@@NappMotorsports We can relate. I can see this process leading to renewed energy and focus. Keep all the options open. Looking forward to your next vids!

[@siqsteen]

with that kind of maintenance and your goals with a car, I'd personally go NA. you could always LS swap it, I just threw a VH45 in my s13, and it's so nice. the constant torque and engine sound just gives it life. 300whp aint bad either

[@NappMotorsports]

👍🏽

[@Buzz65]

Do you have emissions requirements in your state? If so, how do you run an aftermarket ECU? Thanks ahead of time for the response.

[@NappMotorsports]

25 years and older no longer have emissions checks in NYS.

[@CleverDragon]

At the moment my NB only has a bunch of bolt ons and since I don't have the shop or the room to install a turbo this video is a good indicator of what I am missing out on. I'm still not sure if I should go turbo or supercharged. Or just have a bunch of bolt ons until my motor dies.

[@NappMotorsports]

I think the major takeaway I've had is the solution might not be as obvious as I once thought. It might take more time for me to sort out the turbo setup to replicate the experience I want or just settle with a slow car and go NA.

[@gkkillerr]

to the people wanting to supercharge your miata, I can tell you from experience that it will have much of the same exact problems as a turbo build. I keep having non stop oil leaks and having to run the car on 93 right now is burning a hole in my pocket just to drive it around town.

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks for your feedback. What supercharger are you running? Have you changed anything about your PCV system?

[@bvward]

Dylan, if you are serious about de-Turboing, I am interested if it will bolt on to a BP-5A... I would want the whole setup less the ECU. Cash money.

[@NappMotorsports]

Hmmmmmmm, good to know. If I end up choosing to sell it all Ill post on instagram first.

[@ruffus4924]

I went with the supermiata organic clutch and it feels stock drivability wise.

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks! Seems like a lot of people are recommending this option. I check it out!

[@EMentz]

Itb! Lets go! Thats the unique fun route

[@NappMotorsports]

Pretty surprised about all the support for ITBs. Not sure I’ll go that route but definitely tempted.

[@archull]

If you want reliability and boost in that car go k-swap. I have had a boosted k-series in my RSX Type-s making 500hp daily for years on a stock bottom end beating the crap out of it from track days to daily driving. Only problem I ever had with the setup was transmissions because I was pushing way more power than the weak K-series transmissions were designed for. I actually just bought a K24 TSX motor to drop into my Miata today to build for boost.

[@NappMotorsports]

*reading this with a broken k swap miata*

[@dschrock23]

Keep the set up. Install a 6 speed and a NEW GT2560r. Change the oil feed. Lower the boost to just below 250hp. Lots of turbo cars without the issues you are seeing, aside from the trans, which is a known issue.

[@NappMotorsports]

Swapped the CHRA so the turbo is back up and running. At the track day we were only running 7psi which is around 225psi. Considering it he 6speed if I confirm the current trans is bad.

[@driftaw]

I had my fair share of problems with my supercharged setup, and, generaly speaking, it's only because I keep touching and modifying everything constantly. 😄 On a side note, according to Flyin Miata's last video, the turn signal vents unbalance the engine bay low pressure, and that decreases the effectiveness of the radiator.

[@NappMotorsports]

Good to know. Ill look into the FM video, we ran our own tests on the TSI and saw a decrease in Intake Temps multiple different ways. Videos on our page.

[@aubreywhitley6889]

What kind of WHP and WTQ were you getting at 7 psi? If you had stayed there, do you thing the car would be more reliable (less seal issues) and would you have been more satisfied with it?

[@NappMotorsports]

Setup had a low/high boost button which was actuated by a boost solenoid. I believe 7psi and 14psi if memory serves. Most of the driving was at 7psi which was 225whp and 180ish ft/lbs. track day was at 7psi. So really disappointing to have all the issues even with most of the driving at the lower HP.

[@Red2l16v]

The big issue here is 3 hour track days. For a track car doing that much racing in one day a turbo setup is not the way to go. Powerband is not linear enough and heat management is a big issue. For a track car an NA engine is what you need. To me a perfect track car is an NA Miata. I feel bang for buck an LS swapped Miata is the way to go. 400whp NA and total reliability and TQ that makes shifting and all of that way less of a hassle. You can leave the car a gear high and have plenty of power for most tracks. For a street car where you're smacking it on the street and having fun a turbo BP is a ton of fun. I think a K swap is cool but I think the cost/benefit ratio is a little lacking compared to LS swap IMHO. I think Supercharger kits are best for the less mechanical owners who just want a little more power with a "set it and forget it" mindset. Not the fastest but makes the car much more enjoyable to putt around. On track or wound out the superchargers have reliability issues.

[@NappMotorsports]

There’s a reason we’re going back to NA. I don’t think LS is the answer though, because the consumables are so high.

[@youtuberbayleexiong908]

Yeah having a car at all we can expect problems but all cars are set up differently so it can depend on how well it performs and how reliable it is

[@NappMotorsports]

👍🏽

[@lukeellis7732]

I got a na with 1.8 swap and wanted turbo or it ... I now decided to go with itb. Na power feels better. Or build a monster 1.8 na . My plans..

[@NappMotorsports]

Monster NA build is still a big dream of mine. Really pointless from a cost perspective when you can K swap them, but I just think a 2.1L, high compression, big cam, ported head ITB build would be the coolest thing.

[@lukeellis7732]

@@NappMotorsports yes sir!! Be amazing any your own. K swap always is nice just watched a video on k24 making crazy Rev and power

[@scottmpence1058]

ive made the same mistake on a NA...they are just that good in Factory form...sold it to get a Cherry 38k NC...im not going to do ANYTHING to this 1..PPl LOVE to Hate on the NC but i just Love the way this thing goes.if you TRUELY wanna turbo that thing id suggest dropping a K24 in it..call it the Honzda Mimic..

[@NappMotorsports]

To each their own. I love my NC but in stock form it was very meh.

[@brucesherman7258]

Reliability is key for me. Any thoughts on buying the stock FM turbo kit and installing it exactly as they suggest. Will I get daily driver reliability? And, yes I know it will make less power than you were shooting for.

[@NappMotorsports]

If you didn’t turn the power up to 11 and installed it like they say, you’d have an awesome and reliable car I would guess. You’ll definitely have some kinks to work out here and there, as with any large modification, but if you aren’t pushing the limits of the setup, you’ll be in a good spot.

[@Scyzzorr]

You wanted it, you did it, so now you know it :)

[@NappMotorsports]

Can always undo it!

[@Leon300idas]

Hmm interesting ,have you seen BEAVIS Motorsport channel ? He has a turbo miata track spec .

[@NappMotorsports]

Yeah we have seen his work for sure. I'm certain we could tinker with it and make it reliable, but we've decided to take it an entirely different route.

[@miatafan]

Wish you’d made this video sooner, adding the turbo to my vvt has felt like a slog for what I know won’t be much power. That being said naturally aspirated Bps make even more pathetic power, want to talk about an exclusive but disappointing club it’s that. Sell the turbo, keep the intercooler but add a BOFI supercharger kit, it uses an M45 of a Mini Cooper. You already have the ati so it’s supercharger safe, little to no lag and reliable boost

[@NappMotorsports]

You might be right here but I k is a lot of supercharger kits require two throttle bodies which freaks me out a bit.

[@fireonmytarget8937]

Very good info here, I have been doing suspension upgrades and maintenance. I'm getting to the point where I would like to add some power. I was thinking of getting a megasquirt3 pnp and installing that/getting the stock engine running on that for a fun project. I like the idea of either intake/headers/tune with the megasquirt OR piece together a similar turbo setup to yours (aiming for about 220-230 WHP). I would want a megasquirt (I'm only interested in MS for an aftermarket ECU) regardless which path I end up doing right?

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks! Yeah. You’ll want MS regardless. Is your engine a 1.8 VVT? Is so you’ll want MS3 to control the VVT.

[@fireonmytarget8937]

@@NappMotorsports Ya I have VVT. I was worried for a bit that megasquirt was going to get caught up in the EPA craziness that got Lund / PFI racing / etc in trouble. Even if I don't install the MS for a while, maybe I should just order it now.

[@nicolashuffman4312]

Keep fighting the good fight! I bet you'll get through the teething issues.

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks for the support, but the kit is already removed and gone! We have something cooler coming down the pipeline.

[@crazylegson2]

Hey. Great, honest videos. So I'm new to Miata modding. Wouldn't supercharging be the way to go?

[@NappMotorsports]

Really depends on what you want out of the car.

[@crazylegson2]

@@NappMotorsports A bit more power for street and track.

[@TheCoburgProject]

If your not shooting for over 220hp supercharging with an m45 off a mini is awesome

[@NappMotorsports]

Yeah, superchargers have their downsides though.

[@enriquealvarez4702]

Sell me the turbo kit. 250 whp is the limit of the 5 speed. Pcv should actually just vent to atmosphere in your setup. Rods and Pistons are cheap insurance and with a six speed trans you can push pass 300 whp. Greg Peters 400 whp is easy to replicate your halfway there. Also coolant reroute if you pull the motor. Good luck don't let this stuff get best out of you.

[@NappMotorsports]

Thanks! I might end up selling the turbo setup. Going to have a long think about it.

[@cl5314]

Would the flyin Miata stage 1 kit give similar reliability issues on the power it makes? Been looking at it but the Miata is my daily. I’m fine with the lower hp it’s rated for.

[@NappMotorsports]

Great kit and solid option if you want to go turbo. Most of my issues have been sorting out the setup. If you want to track the car heavily I’d still recommend staying NA.

[@swift9417]

Do you think I will have less reliabilitiy issues with a soft Rotrex Supercharger (220hp crank) setup? I was wondering because I am also torn between staying NA (with ITBs cams etc) or going boost with a Rotrex. I really want to maintain the reliability of the car tho. Great video btw :)

[@NappMotorsports]

I do think a supercharger is more reliable. Less torque means less strain on the components, which should lead to less issues.

[@swift9417]

@@NappMotorsports Yeah also the Rotrex charges should put theoreticly even less stress on the components, since they are belt driven and develop the boost with the powerband. Clutch, diff., cooling etc. need upgrades ofc.

[@asterin6879]

Loved the video! You definitely got me thinking about what I want to do. What I was thinking was a flying Miata set up with about 5-6 lbs of boost. Should be about 160hp and that's all I really need. My main priority with the Miata is reliability, so would you recommend a super basic turbo setup with low boost or a vvt swap? I should mention I have a decent budget and am looking at low mileage miatas and would likely only track it a few times a year.

[@NappMotorsports]

Hi Asterin. If you are chasing the 160hp mark I’d strongly suggest going VVT. We made 150whp on a dyno that history reads low. VVT with a squaretop intake manifold, a bit of head work, and an exhaust would do the trick.

[@biggboysouth]

Second the vvt swap or even better just buy a 01-05 miata and save yourself the work of swapping then follow Napps build.

[@asterin6879]

@@biggboysouth that's actually what I'm leaning towards. I like the styling of the nb almost as much as the na and they're about 60% of the price where I live. The na prices are just insane right now

[@biggboysouth]

@@asterin6879 I like how both look equally although not a fan of the NB1s as much. I currently have an NA but I personally think the NB2 is the better vehicle. With the exception of being more prone to rust issues around front and rear bumper It's literally just a product improved NA. Not sure how familiar you are with miatas but the NA miatas are famous for having a fuel smell in the cabin due to rubber fuel hoses in trunk and cabin deteriorating. NB doesn't have this issue as much since they changed the fuel system. Also option of a 6 speed was available for NBs which really improve acceleration. My buddies stock NB2 6 speed is almost as fast as my 5speed PNP head ITB car. Honestly If I've given it plenty thought and if I ever sell my miata and want another one I'll probably buy a NB2 6 speed ideally add a skunk 2 intake and full exhaust and called it a day. Would probably be as fast as my car for a fraction of what I paid. and run on stock ecu. Although it's proven switching to a aftermarket ecu does gain power even on a stock engine but that's how you start falling down the rabbit hole ;) Don't wanna start that fall lol. Good luck on the hunt!

[@asterin6879]

@@biggboysouth thank you so much for the advice. This would be my first Miata, I've driven a beater NA that my friend loaned me for a bit. I am looking for a little more comfort and power than that had. With the cost of a vvt or turbo and rear dif on an na plus that insane markup it doesn't really make sense to me. Thank you for the info on the 6 speed though, I wasn't aware of how much of an improvement that makes, I'll keep my eye out

[@Starkie348ts]

I have a 230whp turbo ‘96. It’s fast. Just not fun anymore as I’m always worried something is going to go wrong. If I were doing it again, I’d NA K-swap.

[@NappMotorsports]

NA K is meh in my opinion too haha. Turbo K however.

[@MegaWayfarer]

So for reliability issues would supercharging be the better way to go, purely as a street every day use car?

[@NappMotorsports]

Everything has it's flaws, but yes supercharger would be the easier bolt on solution, especially a kit like the Track Dog Racing Rotrex.

[@TheGeordietheWitchandtheWench]

Miata might always be the answer but NA ALL THE WAY!!!

[@NappMotorsports]

NA All Day!

[@bolt-ktk]

What front lip/splitter are you using?

[@NappMotorsports]

AG Limited GVK

[@itschrisb]

Just bought a turbo Miata project. After discovering some issues with the turbo kit I ultimately decided to ditch the whole turbo idea and go ITBs. So yes please do some ITB content! I think turbos are cool if you wanna just talk about HP or have a specific reason you need a certain amount of HP. Otherwise NA all day! Or supercharger actually.

[@NappMotorsports]

If I go ITB I would go back to matching my license plate.... NAALLDAY 🤔

[@brianuribe9830]

I have a question hopefully you guys can help me out I have a 1999 mazda miata was rebuilt and idle like it has a cam in it any ideas what could be maybe a MAF or IAC?

[@NappMotorsports]

Misfire?

[@onlywenilaugh6589]

I spent 9.2K on my total NB which is in excellent condition with 55K miles. Don't think I would spend another 7K+ on a turbo that may actually decrease it's value.

[@NappMotorsports]

Who cares about value. The cars are here to have fun with.

[@2HRenovation]

I have a brand new Flyin Miata turbo kit still sealed in the boxes. Now what?! 🧐

[@NappMotorsports]

Install it

[@stumpbumpers]

My stock 90 NA 1.6 gets 32 mpg and that’s cool to me. It’s also dependable as a commuter. I don’t have an option here for track, but I could trailer on the weekends. That seems like a bad financial decision, all be it fun. Anyway, I’ll drive this little car until it sells and then buy a minty 2021 or older WRX STI...maybe a type RA. Likely not because it seems like another bad financial decision with its rarity and I want to daily it. Anyway, I’m 45 years old and have several cars, if I decided to make this Miata my project and enjoy the process with my 16 and 17 year old children, money well spent. However, they have a WRX and a BRZ. I have a tuned Ascent. So, 🤷🏻‍♂️🤔🧐🤣🤣😎 To each his own...Subaru!!

[@NappMotorsports]

👍🏽

[@christopherpollard7244]

Imo sell the setup, go back to a N/a build. Then get something else to “go fast” in and love your track toy as well. If I’m gonna own a 400hp plus car I’m realizing the Miata isn’t the best tool in the box.

[@NappMotorsports]

It’s now a 2.0L ITB Car