Stop & Waste valve replacement

[@insanecancer]

Your videos are so helpful. Thanks to this channel, I've laid sod in my entire back yard, installed a backflow, replaced my stop and waste valve, and repaired or replaced broken pipes and sprinkler heads all over my yard. All of this done with absolutely no experience in doing any of it before this summer. Thanks again.

[@jaymesc.moreland9265]

Nice! I have to say you are the first person on KZbin that I have seen who actually bothers to disinfect the line.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks for the kind comments, I'm glad my videos have been helpful.

[@crystalclarity6766]

You have a very nice tutorial here, iScaper1. Thank you for taking the time & trouble to create & publish it to the world. You have doubtlessly saved many a DIYer from expending needless effort and wasted cash. Well done & thank you!

[@BestEachDay]

It is great instruction, and so calm -- unlike myself when I'm stuck with one of these projects. And unless you're reaching an age where you don't want to do all that digging, Especially if your stop and waste happens to be about 5 feet deep. Ugh.

[@jammybiggs8148]

Thank you! I'm in the process of replacing ours. There's a slow trickle of water coming into the basement where the main water line comes in (ICV box is right outside with stop & waste valve connected). Unfortunately it's winter here in SLC (technically soon to be). You made it look easy! I'm only about 1' away from the S&W valve. Gonna complete the job tomorrow & also paint the foundation in that area with something to help water-proof it.

[@Iscaper]

Good luck!

[@mamamuzic]

I've dug down 5-6 feet and found the valve! I am now ready to replace it. Thank you SO MUCH for this video! Is there anything you would do different 10 years later now?

[@nkohrman]

Your video was very clear about how to go about doing this. It almost makes me brave enough to try it. I'm getting older, though, and not sure my arms would hold up to all that digging! Irrigation is very new to me since I've just moved from the east coast. Thank you for this great information!

[@LuisRodriguez-xl6wi]

One of the very best videos I have seen on special repairs. You are excellent on detail and very methodical. Thanks.

[@dwiller11]

I’ve been looking for something like this for almost a year. Very hard to find detailed info on installation and burial methods. I see my contractor installed my stop and waste valve on my new home without any kind of cloth around the valve to prevent dirt from clogging the vent. Now I know I need to dig it up and do it right. Thanks for the great video and all the detail.

[@Iscaper]

Your probably okay not digging up the valve unless you want the peace of mind that it's done right. The stand pipe should be some protection for the valve unless it threads onto the top of the valve. It's a problem if you get a small rock in the waste port and the valve won't shut off.

[@paulhaldeman3309]

Wow! that was outstanding from beginning to end!

[@Iscaper]

Thanks!

[@tracyr5594]

That was an awesome video. You do great work. I was surprised how much corrosion you got off that tee.

[@michaelabbott4805]

Great video and great work. You are very good at what you do - sharing your expertise and skills really helped me! Thank you

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Michael, I appreciate the feedback.

[@s2_cool756]

great video, I'm pretty sure mine just went bad. I went to shut it off to avoid freezing pipes on my sprinkler system only to find water in my basement. I think the valve innards failed and water was coming out of the hole in the side of the stop and waste. The valve is the same age of the house and my house was built in the 60's. Is there any reason that I should replace the service line while I'm at it? I think its a galvanized 1 inch line? I"m sure its super corroded. Love to get your opinion. thanks!

[@jameswilson9781]

Always use 2 forms of sealant on a pressurized line. Also NEVER USE FEMALE PVC THREADS! It's only a matter of time to failure. After the brass 90 Install a SCH 80 toe nipple. Even threaded bushings can crack and split over time. After 20 years of sprinkler repair. Doing it this way. I have never had a failure. Most stop and waste failures I have found. Are due to faulty installation.

[@jamesgrote8680]

lot of ways to do it. could just run copper up closer to grade, convert to pvc there with an isolation valve in a bucket

[@jamesgrote8680]

i worked for a company that went to pvc out of the tee on the service line. i found this out by letting the tee head key slipping out of my hand and bust ing it 6 feet deep

[@sevelev]

Good vid. Tip: save yourself 10 minutes by watching on 2x speed!

[@gieselman]

methodical and easy to follow. great talk through. Thanks!

[@Iscaper]

Thanks for watching.

[@Churchie9090]

Excellent presentation & well narrated 2 Thumbs up

[@Iscaper]

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

[@neymarmarquez4089]

It was an awesome and helpful video Thanks for sharing your irrigations skills and experiencies

[@Iscaper]

jehzeel wences Thanks Jehzeel.

[@ConradOlivier]

As always, your videos are extremely well done.

[@steveschultz7227]

Great video, thanks! One question: the guy at the plumbing supply store recommends always replacing the tee fitting at with the valve. Do you not recommend that, and why?

[@Iscaper]

The tee looked to be in good shape so I didn't replace it. There's also an argument to be made for replacing all the old parts. This time I went with if it's not broke don't fix it.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@Iscaper]

Hi John, it took about 2-1/2 hours to dig the hole. The soil was nice and sandy but there was a lot of tree roots that slowed me down. I've never seen or worked on an indexing valve system. They're just not used in this area. Interesting valve, all you need to do is turn power on and off at the pump or solenoid to have the valve advance to the next station. Do you like them and are they reliable?

[@harvortiz4756]

Very informative DIY’er video. How deep are these main lines buried? I finally found my T handle, it is not protected and rusted. So far I dug 2 ft. And don’t see the valve.

[@Iscaper]

Here in SLC usually 3.5' - 5'.

[@yota87truck]

I prefer a 2" stand pipe. That way it guides the key onto the stop and waste.

[@merlynndensley]

What is the expected life of a stop and waste valve? Mine is 13 years old and I thought it was leaking but after watching your video and digging down to the valve, I think what I thought was leakage is just the weep hole properly functioning. Now that I've dug the hole, I'm thinking about just going ahead and replacing the valve. Sorry to hear you are no longer doing landscaping!

[@Iscaper]

Some stop & waste valves corrode and get to the point where you can't turn them off or on, then replacement is necessary. That's why I like the Mueller Oriseal valve, I've never had a sticking problem due to corrosion. I've had valves in for over 20 years that are still working fine.

[@gyver471]

Great job and great demonstration.

[@chasmfiend]

Do you happen to have your part list handy? I'm planning on going back through and noting each item, but if you have it available that would save me some time. Your videos are all amazing. Thank you for providing such a great resource.

[@johnkenney7217]

Hi, thanks for your comprehensive videos. I would like to add a filter/pressure regulator to 2 or 3 of my zones at the valve. I know they can be converted at the riser/pop-up, but these zones are each separated into sub-parts by hardscape, so it's much easier to do it one place upstream. Do you have a video on that or could you do one?

[@Iscaper]

No videos yet on installing a filter after the sprinkler valve. I do have one installing a filter/pressure reducer on a drip circuit: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaa4qKGFeZmimdk

[@johnkenney7217]

@@Iscaper Thanks, that link was educational. I think the hard part for me in trying to install the filter/regulator upstream before the zone branches, is just finding where the heck the pipe is. There is no room in the valve box for the new piece. Maybe just outside the valve box.

[@Iscaper]

@@johnkenney7217 Yeah, you'll probably have to cut in the filter/regulator outside the valve box then install another box so you have access to the filter/regulator.

[@johnkenney7217]

@@Iscaper I dug down there just outside the valve box where each of the 3 zones has a 90 going off to do their thing. The two zones I want to convert, the pipes are right next to each other. I think to give myself room to work and put in a union arrangement instead of glued connections, for each zone, I could cut out a section, put 2 45-deg elbows on each side (assuming there's enough room to get that elbow on there, which I think there is), then install the filter/regulator in that elevated space before it drops back down. Seems to me I need a union on each side of the filter/regulator, unless I want to, and have room to, tighten the filter/regulator by turning its whole body? Nice to have an expert advising; I wish you were around here so I could hire you to do it.

[@Iscaper]

@@johnkenney7217 Unions are a good idea on each side of the filter in case you ever need to replace it.

[@jamesfair8401]

Awesome video! I got all the way down to the stop and waste and wasn't really sure what to do next. Thank you very much for making this! Would you happen to recall where you picked up your replacement valve? There are a lot of Mueller stop and waste valve options out there.

[@Iscaper]

+Jamie Fair I bought my Mueller HD stop & waste valve at Peterson Plumbing supply here in Salt Lake City. Most bigger plumbing supply stores should carry them.

[@ifameya]

Thank you answered a lot of my questions, much appreciated.

[@fredklaiss8964]

Great video. It was very informative, keep up the good work.

[@DB57RB]

Excellent video!

[@Iscaper]

Thanks!

[@Iscaper]

I was lucky. The nipple was corroded so much I thought it would break off in the tee, but it spun out. Where I live most of the yards have the stop & waste valve in the yard and only a few have the stop & waste valve inside the house.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Alex.

[@johnkosheluk1041]

Hi kerry couple of things how long did it take u 2 dig that hole plus witch sprinkler sys du u pefer inline valve sys or index valve sys i have seen all of your videos of spr repair and learn alot frome them when are u going 2 post some new ones

[@CharlieTechie]

Very well done video, thanks for sharing.

[@koriwest]

I think this video explains why my standpipe just filled up with water when I tried shutting my sprinkler water off for the winter without having it turned off all the way. I hope 😬

[@Iscaper]

Yeah, water in the stand pipe means the valve isn't completely off.

[@scooterjensen467]

Hi, I just noticed that I have water coming from my stop and waste valve I have tried to make sure it is turned off all the way but water is still coming from it. I live In West Valley City Utah and wanted to know if you could tell me someone that is professional and licensed that could replace this for me? How much would this cost in labor and parts? Thanks for your time.

[@Iscaper]

Do a Google search for "sprinkler repair salt lake city".

[@Themountaincritter]

S. Faber Enterprises 801-699-8051

[@UglyAmerican00]

Christina A I just gave S. Faber Enterprise a call this week. The gentlemen was very professional and responded quickly, however, he is located in Sandy UT. I think he prefers to work closer to that area. Regardless, he did not complain and did an awesome job at a fair price. I would highly recommend him if you live near him!

[@daveengstrom9250]

This is a great video. Thanks for making it.

[@billpeterson7019]

very well explained, thank you

[@justenhansen]

You don't have to make some kind of reservoir for the water to flow into? Like with gravel or something?

[@Iscaper]

My installation was in sandy soil so a gravel sump wasn't necessary. In clay soil it's a good idea.

[@Iscaper]

Hi Dan. I don't have a parts list for this repair. I would have to do the same thing, go through the video and write down what I used. I hope it's not too much trouble for you to do that. Thanks for the feedback on my videos.

[@JKyle006]

Thank you for the very informative video!!

[@Iscaper]

Very kind, thank you.

[@BillSmithBSartist]

Very well done.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Bill for watching.

[@jorgerecinos3318]

For this people in salt lake área Im a plúmber and YOU can call Lec plumbing and ask for George i will be glad to help YOU with your stop and waste valve.... Tx

[@DionDavidson]

Can you give a ballpark estimate of what I would pay a professional to do this job (replace stop & waste valve)? I live in Utah, so mine looks just like the one in your video. (Is this $200 or $1,000?)

[@Iscaper]

Materials and labor on this repair was around $400.

[@Themountaincritter]

Just had to have mine redone. A little over $400 but I'm not sure if that's standard pricing or discounted because of a work connection. If you are in SLC, I used S. Faber Enterprises to replace mine.

[@tooneboone3869]

Good job, if cost is not a consideration!

[@merlynndensley]

Great video! I live in Murray, Utah. Can I hire you to come and replace my stop and waste valve?

[@Iscaper]

Sorry, no longer doing my landscaping business.

[@jguppie00]

Bummer! I was wondering the same thing! But thank you so very much for the wealth of information you now share with all of us. I was able to install my own system this summer thanks to you and these helpful videos and I'm just a stay at home mom with no experience in sprinkler systems! Again, THANK YOU!!!

[@lmstech]

excellent work

[@Iscaper]

+lmstech Thanks.

[@IonRoux]

Why did you replace the standpipe?

[@philp8168]

so here's an idea of mine but if you were to encase the Stop and waste valve and then dig down below it another two feet and put gravel that way dirt and moisture don't come in contact with the Stop and waste valve? wouldn't that make it last longer than just bearing it with dirt on top of it?

[@Iscaper]

+bep2001 kumar The notches in the stand pipe keep dirt from getting to the valve, and the fabric keeps dirt out of the drain port. Adding rock underneath for clay soil isn't a bad idea.

[@samuelfratto6299]

Nice work.

[@abiprates284]

Great job.

[@Iscaper]

I didn't like how the old stand pipe fit over the new valve so I replaced it.

[@choccogaming]

love your video man thanks

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Luis for watching.

[@choccogaming]

Can you make a other video later how install the t plz love al your videos man

[@codybakerousucks3926]

is a stop and waste valve only for Reclamed water irrigation

[@tatianatarasova9731]

thank you

[@federicolopez8807]

exelenct!!

[@Iscaper]

Thanks!

[@ryanfreitag1489]

Kerry, do you know what brand that new stop and waste valve is that you installed?

[@Iscaper]

Mueller

[@ryanfreitag1489]

iScaper1 Thanks Kerry. I appreciate it.

[@marcosgarcia4073]

What type of copper tee is that? I don’t know that name? Please help

[@Iscaper]

It's a brass 3/4" CTS dresser tee with a 3/4" FIPT outlet.

[@marcosgarcia4073]

@@Iscaper Thank you for your time and knowledge

[@gmcjetpilot]

What is it with Plumbing using channel locks, pipe wrenches and crescent wrenches. Every other trade they use a WRENCH that fits the "NUT" size..... I understand the difference in machines and plumbing but wrenches would be far better. I suspect plumbing fittings are not very precise and you need a variable sized wrench (channel locks, crescent wrench, pipe wrench). Also you don't need to torque, just water tight often achieved with tapered threads or threads covered in sealant.

[@Iscaper]

A brass nipple doesn't have a "nut" on it that can be tightened with your typical wrench, that's why pipe wrenches and pliers with adjustable jaws are needed. They also let you quickly transition to different pipe sizes. Try a pair of Knipex pliers, you would love them.

[@gmcjetpilot]

Good point but THEY could have fittings that fit standard wrenches (and some plumbing does). I can work on my car, motorcycle and airplane with pliers and channel locks for "fast transition" but that would just be wrong. Ha ha. Thanks for posting this good video. Cheers..

[@Marinagapito]

its normal that valve leaks?

[@Iscaper]

When in the ON position the valve shouldn't leak, if it does you have a problem. In the OFF position the valve will drain everything upstream to the port on the right side of the valve.

[@philp8168]

how long did that take you to dig???

[@Iscaper]

+bep2001 kumar It was sandy soil so it only took a couple of hours. I did encounter tree roots though.

[@LuisRodriguez-xl6wi]

Got a question please. What is the cost of a Stop and Waste valve?....I need to replace that valve and the company that I called to do the job told me that the valve alone costs 273 dollars...is that correct?

[@Iscaper]

I paid under $100 for the valve in the video.

[@jamesgrote8680]

Labor depends on how deep a hole needs to be dug and how nasty the digging is .Then,what you run into when you get down there, Then,how neatly you want it buried. 273 sounds very fair, but who is doing the work is important. They have to (usually) turn the water off to the house. If they screw it up, no water til they got it. Or they just bury a leak.

[@jimrylander9143]

Easier. 3/4” schedule 80 nipple. Thread into brass 90. Cut other end of sch 80 nipple. Take 3/4” slip x slip coupling & glue. A lot easier & very strong.

[@Iscaper]

Good tips, thanks for posting.

[@itech301]

What kind of tee do is used to tap into a water line like this?

[@Iscaper]

3/4" CTS (copper tube size) brass dresser tee with a 3/4" FIPT outlet.

[@itech301]

iScaper1 thanks so much!

[@federicolopez8807]

do you need licences to do this job?

[@Iscaper]

If I understand the law correctly and you're the homeowner, you don't need a license to do a project like this yourself. But if you hire someone else to do the project they would need to be licensed. I would advise checking the local codes where you live for what is required/allowed.

[@federicolopez8807]

@@Iscaper thanks

[@federicolopez8807]

I like very much how explain your jobs. I really appreciate

[@georgesiatos9848]

how much money costs the materials?

[@Iscaper]

+George Siatos Under a $100 if you're buying the 3/4" stop & waste.

[@georgesiatos9848]

thanks alot!!!!!keep good work!!!

[@Iscaper]

+George Siatos Thanks George.

[@ronalehman]

not bad !

[@91099Babar]

NO ITS A GROUND KEY VALVE , THE VALVE WHICH YOU SHOULD MAKE A VIDEO OUTTA IT CALLED COMPRESSION - STOP - WASTE OR DRAIN VALVE .

[@Screwdriversteve1]

Union should have been at the bottom.

[@mikebels719]

you need to wrap the tee and the valve

[@Iscaper]

I wrap the valve at 17:45 in the video.

[@seattledelgado7735]

Why is it so quiet

[@bash8387]

Mine is like yours but is all Metal

[@brendandrury2177]

Why is this called a 'stop and waste' valve? The water flows toward the house from the street. Your installed valve is open always. The water enters the house. Why is this needed. Where I am there is the main house shutoff valve at the sidewalk. Do you want 2 shutoffs?

[@Iscaper]

The stop & waste tees into the water supply running to the house. It is used to supply the sprinkler system. When shut off in the fall it drains water from the supply pipe to the sprinkler system to a port in the side of the valve. This helps prevent sprinkler systems from freeze damage.

[@71dembonesTV]

8:35 - tsk, tsk, tsk. You mention not using female PVC threads for the connection but go ahead with it anyways. I agree a bushing has more meat than a female adapter and is less likely to fail. But, you should always use male pvc threads to transition from any metal pipe

[@jaymesc.moreland9265]

I disagree buddy. I would rather use a female PVC on male metal rather than female metal on male PVC. The reason being that should the connection become stressed for any reason and a crack develop then it is much easier to repair. It is much easier to remove the remnants of female PVC a from the metal male without damaging the threads than it is to remove the remnants of male PVC from female metal. I see this issue quite often when repairing the connection between a customer's service line and a Ford style meter box.

[@71dembonesTV]

Alright, fair enough. I suppose if your talking about stuff being buried in the ground; I can see where you're coming from. In a perfect world, you wouldn't have a transition like this underground at all. I very seldom do underground piping and when I do; it's usually brazed type L or K copper so this doesn't apply. A question if I may; would you agree the method I described is correct for an exposed, above ground application? Surely it would be better to have the softer material tightened into the harder material. That way, the plastic threads would tend expand into the metal rather than the metal tending to split the softer plastic. I'm still going to do it the way I was taught but, I'm interested to know your take on this.

[@jaymesc.moreland9265]

I am the opposite. I deal with almost exclusively underground. For an above ground application I see no reason why it wouldn't be acceptable so long as it is not under a bending stress or in a place where it has the potential to be accidentally whacked by someone. To be fair if its under stress it will break in either configuration, it is simply easier in my opinion to get a female PVC fitting removed. In my area we are seeing more and more homeowners opting for PEX and some HDPE plumbing over PVC because of little issues such as this. A few of the older houses still use copper but it is almost unheard of here on a new construction because of the expense and the potential leeching of copper into drinking water.

[@jaymesc.moreland9265]

But you are correct. A female PVC fitting does have a tendency to split if it is over tightened onto a brass or steel male fitting. I do like how this gentleman in the video uses the coupling and slip adapter to mitigate some of that cracking potential vs a straight FNPT x Slip adapter. I believe I will start using that method when making these transitions. Although on a side note, Stop and Waste valves are illegal here due to contamination concerns.

[@71dembonesTV]

JayC I know of at least a few instances where a male metal adapter (usually copper) has been tightened into a female pvc fitting and cracked open and split a period of time after the installation, causing major damage. If it simply didn't work at all, it would leak during a pressure test and you'd do something else. The problem is it can work for a while and then fail. Once again, most of the plumbing I do is for heating/cooling systems and the rapid and frequent temperature changes probably makes this method a lot more likely to fail. Where are you from? I do not see stop and waste valves where I'm from and that is probably mostly because it very rarely freezes anywhere around here. In southern CA, we're still using copper for most new commercial constuction. I see pex on some of the smaller/cheaper stuff. Most new houses have it as well. Higher end houses still usually have copper. Over 4 story structures still require metallic drain lines (cast, copper, or galv) and I will always pick copper if I have to do a drain or vent in that situation. As far as copper leeching into drinking water; I'd still build my house with copper and have a good water filter :)

[@mikel.laughridge9480]

too much of a job for me. Who should I call to do this?

[@Iscaper]

Plumber or a landscape contractor. Landscape contractor is probably cheaper.