How to replace sprinkler valves.

[@ragtop63]

Probably one of the most useful videos on KZbin. Thanks!

[@Iscaper]

Wow, thanks!

[@Justiceforall1948]

This is one of the better videos I have seen around here. Very detailed, informative, and easy to follow.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Andrew for the feedback on the video.

[@JerrePaquette]

Nicely done, Kerry. I just moved into a home with an existing system similar to yours, and I was watching your video just as a heads-up attempt at solving problems down the road. You have a great teaching manner. Thanks.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Jerre, I appreciate your feedback on how my videos are made.

[@richardmayor9933]

Found to be very helpful and easy to understand. Only improvement would have been more of an explanation on connecting the station wiring. One of the better ones I have seen in a long time.

[@Iscaper]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sajidullah]

Ur video encouraged me enuf to finally finish putting 5 new valves..a complete redo ! Thx !

[@JoseRivera-hl6ve]

Excellent video. You really know how to present your project very well! Great job!

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Jose for watching.

[@Iscaper]

From Christy's website: A primer is used to penetrate and soften the surfaces of the pipe and fittings so that they can be fused together. Good solvent cemented joints can be made without a primer in certain pipe applications if local codes permit. We recommend that joints being made without a primer only be used for pressure water systems below 4" and for DWV or low pressure applications 6" or smaller. You are correct but I still prefer using primer.

[@boolshmool]

I really like how clean your glue joints are compared to the sloppy work done before you

[@Iscaper]

Good point. I almost did cut out the manifold but cost was a big issue for the homeowners. If it would have been faster and cheaper to cut out the manifold and rebuild it I would have done it that way. The fittings in the manifold looked good so I went with replacing the valves.

[@Sarah-el4yj]

Thanks for the video! I’m going to try replacing a zone valve here at work for the first time.

[@Iscaper]

Good luck! Rain Bird has discontinued the union valves shown in the video. I've gone to using Action manifolds and Rain Bird 100DVF sprinkler valves. Here's a link to a video using this type of setup and affiliate links to parts used. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaHIpaWlhdymZ5I

[@stiffyjk]

nice video, just gave me confidence i needed. got to get this done before i can even attempt to work on sprinkler heads.

[@Iscaper]

Good luck!

[@patrickfrausto9866]

Fantastic video again. I like your installation. easy to repair after your work is done. Thanks again.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Patrick, I appreciate the feedback.

[@JACQUESFAUST1]

SHORT CUT: See those six screws on each valve? Unscrew them, and replace the diaphram for $8 each valve. No cutting, gluing, measuring, etc. JF

[@pcofranc]

Or $92 for each diaphragm (scrubber for reclaimed water) on the rain bird 100PGA lines that's why I'm replacing them all. Even the non-scrubber is $50 and they all leak at the diaphragm after about 7 years.

[@tmcgurran]

great explanation, you saved me a few hours of frustration. Thanks!

[@Iscaper]

They are right that if a pipe is full of water and freezing that the poly would do better because it could expand a little bit and not break. PVC is more rigid so if the same situation occurred it would fail sooner. You are correct that if a system is winterized properly it wouldn't be an issue with either the Poly or the PVC. Given a choice between a sprinkler system installed with Poly pipe versus one with PVC pipe, I would take the PVC sprinkler system every time.

[@Iscaper]

I agree to a certain point. Normally I would cut out the whole manifold and start over, but in this repair cost was a major issue for the home owners. They wanted the repair done as cheaply and quickly as possible so I used the minimum of parts to get the job done.

[@Iscaper]

Glue is Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue. Primer is Oatey Purple Primer. The T-handle is simply a glue and primer tote.

[@Iscaper]

I live in Salt Lake City and the temperature ranges from below zero to 100 degrees. The only valve I've seen temperature affect is the Hunter Jar Top valve. Cold weather affects the tightening collar on this valve to where it won't seal the top half of the valve with the bottom half.

[@Iscaper]

You open the valve manually by twisting the solenoid a 1/4 to 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. This opens the valve manually and is done with no power from the timer. The small knob your referring to is either the flow control in the center of the valve, or the manual bleed screw. I'm not sure which one you're referring to. With the flow control you can shut the valve off, and with the bleed screw you can also open the valve manually.

[@MrDavesHandyman]

Great video. Found it very helpful. Dave in Spring Hill, Fl.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks David.

[@rscott17]

Well done, Gary. Good explanation and visuals!

[@Iscaper]

Hi John. The only problems I've had with power to solenoids is a few timers that were outputting to little power to the valves, less than 18 volts.

[@sgursahaney]

Excellent video, Kerry! Very clear instructions. Thanks.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Suresh for commenting.

[@heroknaderi]

I enjoyed watching very detailed information ℹ️

[@Iscaper]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@heroknaderi]

@@Iscaper Thanks. Oh. I just thought of another video suggestion. It is How to Find Solinoid Vales that are buried in the ground without a valve box.

[@SkinnyVinnyLive]

Great video!!! Never be outdated!!!

[@Iscaper]

Thanks!

[@KyleCarrington]

Good vid! I do irrigation too. Rainbird's are my go to valve... I was taught they are the best on the market and 5 years later I still agree... never tried those threaded union style though, that's pretty tricky I like it. Typically I will glue everything, then use a 1" female threaded DV-100, with a 1" male adapter , but there's "no second chances", a lot of the time anyway... it's kinda set in stone, with those, if they drip slightly your still in the game....interesting... thank for sharing

[@Iscaper]

Unfortunately Rain Bird discontinued the 100DVF-UU valve. Not sure why because it was my favorite valve. I like having unions on the valves in case there is a valve problem, so I'll probably look into the Action manifolds.

[@KyleCarrington]

iScaper1 Really huh? That's too bad, I rather like how the o-ring based union is right on the valve... with Action manifolds... I'm still on the fence. I did a re&re last season with them. Well, I tellya what it WAS SLOW. And awkward trying make a configuration match the crazy set up in the field I was revamping. I thought it'd be a snap, but turns out when I got the pre-made manifold all together, it did not align well with the original main line, cause it was never made plumb, so it was tough... Had it have been a new project, from scratch, it would be different. I'm not set in stone but, so far my line of thinking of is, for a 2 or 3 maybe even 4 zone job, I am going to stick with building my own manifolds spacing valves with enough distance between for 1 cut & repair. For larger jobs, 5+ zones, maybe start going with manifolds. The thing that kind of bothers me, is, that - o rings DO FAIL. One should source out the exact o rings compatible with a valve set, and provide the customer with a second set, as a bonus value added service. Can you even buy o-rings for them, specifically? If so, for how long? Are they standard? Everything has it's pro's and cons. If you think of how many valve jobs you've done, and how few of them were Rainbird DV valves.... most of the time when a Rainbird fails, you simply rebuild it from the outside, in... and you're good to go for another ten years, the bodies rarely warp, especially if compared to a 4 bolt Nelson... so, with that said, if you build a brand new manifold with o-ring style valves, what will go first, the o-rings in the manifold, or the base body of the DV valve?

[@Iscaper]

KyleCarrington Excellent points. There's also the matter of cost. I agree with you that if the whole manifold has to be rebuilt, that then it would be a good time to use a manifold system like Action or Dura, but if the customer has cost restraints and only one valve or two needs to be replaced that is a good time to use the existing manifold with a new threaded valve or build a manifold with male adapters. I have built my own manifolds just to save a customer money. I also agree with you that if you have Rain Bird valves most times you don't have to mess with the manifold to complete the repair, it is just a matter of replacing the faulty valve parts.

[@KyleCarrington]

iScaper1 We think a lot alike, I enjoy your videos and pick up little things here and there, it's great. Keep up the vids! I'll probably make one or two this season too.. I'm doing an interesting project... it's gonna be Eco-Lawn, that'll be left to grow long... interesting stuff. My first time. www.waidy.com has some great photos of what it looks like - no connection/affiliation top me whatsoever, just a good example, online. I've been scratching my head over it... cause the grass WILL be substantially taller... I thought about using RB 5006's their 6" popup, but at the end of the day, after talking to the guys at Wildflower Farm the folks that make Eco-Lawn.. I'm going to go with 5004's but I've told the customer that if it doesn't work out well, we'll be putting coconut fiber disks around each head to improve things.

[@Iscaper]

KyleCarrington What kind of grass is used in the Eco-lawn? Do you ever mow it or just let it grow? In my area people are trying Buffalo grass as an alternative to common grass types. My sod supplier is developing varieties of Kentucky Bluegrass that are more drought tolerant and water efficient.

[@ktfd2000]

Thank you for the very helpful video. Clear and professional instruction. Much appreciated by me.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

[@Iscaper]

Agreed. I have more trouble with Orbit than an other brand.

[@StephanHauk]

Nice Video. Greetings from Toro Irrigation Field Service in Germany.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Stephan.

[@Iscaper]

Adding in valves is not to difficult if you're working with PVC pipe. It can be more difficult if you're working with galvanized pipe. Do you have spare timer wires to work with in your current configuration? If not it can turn into a project getting the extra timer wires needed to the new valves.

[@Iscaper]

Sounds like you know what you're doing. Most of the under performing systems I've worked on have too many heads on zones and will often have mixed heads, rotors with spray heads. I haven't had good luck with the Irritrol valves. You might want to try the Rain Bird 100DVF valve the next time you need to change out a sprinkler valve.

[@Iscaper]

Good question. Some solenoids will buzz when getting power from the timer.

[@Iscaper]

@Signguyaz It could be that the valve with low flow isn't opening completely. First make sure the flow control (if the valve has one) is completely open. Next open the valve manually and see if you have good flow in the zone with the sprinkler valve opened manually. If you do, it could be that the solenoid isn't opening the valve completely when it receives power from the timer. In this case replace the solenoid. Let me know if this works.

[@Iscaper]

@Hungweilo Wind was blowing that day and there is a lawn mower running in the background also. Thanks for the feedback.

[@Iscaper]

Is your valve an anti-siphon valve? Does the valve leak? You hit the valve with a hammer because? What make and model valve is it? You should be able to find the info on the top of the valve.

[@Iscaper]

If your sprinkler line is shaped line a "U", it wouldn't be too difficult. You would make a cut on either side of the tee and cap the lines so that you isolate one line from the other, then add the new valve to the side without the existing valve. If the sprinkler line is a straight off the valve, then it becomes much more difficult. You would have to run a new line from the new valve and connect in somewhere behind sprinkler head 3.

[@kevinconley1969]

You suggest rainbird? Shoot....I replaced all my sprinkler heads with Orbit. I have not touched the valves yet but I need to since the box is full of water

[@Signguyaz]

If you don't mind what would cause low flow to only one section and not the others. Thanks

[@walkertongdee]

Yup,old Rainbird valves. I often take off the top so they spin off easier. Those union valves aren't available from our supplier where I work, seems a lot easier to use... Nice to see a video where the guy knows his stuff, seen a lot of bad info on the tube. Been at to 30yrs...

[@Iscaper]

They were my favorite valve until Rain Bird discontinued them. They still make the 100DVF but not the 100DVFUU. Thanks for the comments and the feedback.

[@jm213213]

Thank you for the video I have a question about my irrigation system I do not use it at all and right now there is a small leak on one of the valves I’m not sure out of the four which one it is. would it be safe to takeoff the valves and just cap off all 4 right there

[@Iscaper]

Yes you could do it that way but the easiest way is to shut off the valve that supplies the sprinkler system. You'd need to do that anyway to cap off the sprinkler valves.

[@Iscaper]

I'm sure if it is Poly pipe you don't hammer the Poly pipe into the valve. The inlet to the sprinkler valve is probably female IPS threads or slip for gluing PVC pipe. You would need to make a transition from Poly pipe to a Poly male adapter if the valve has threads, or from Poly to PVC pipe if the valve is a slip inlet. This could be why the valve is blowing off if I understand your problem correctly.

[@flexor212000]

It's all PVC but i'm thinking of adding valves to existing line. Example: Valve 1 has 6 sprinklers. I want to have a valve control 3 of those sprinklers instead of all 6 on one valve. Make sense? I'm wondering if I have to dig up all the lines. Then how to add the valve to the control box. My rain bird timer has space for more valves and probably wouldn't be to hard to do that part.

[@Iscaper]

Ok. You have a Weathermaster 57624 anti-siphon valve. Where is the valve leaking? Depending on where the valve is leaking you may have to replace it.

[@Bskeletor]

Thanks for posting. What is your advice for troubleshooting a sprinkler system that hadn't been turned on in in years? The timer is from the 80s and is not working which will be replaced, but I'm at a loss for what to do to get it ready for the spring. I'm also not sure where all the heads are at! HELP! Thanks.

[@Iscaper]

Look at the timer and see how many station valves are wired up. Then go out in the yard and see if you can find the valve boxes. Valves in the boxes should equal stations wired up. Finding all the valves is good for future maintenance. Then turn water on. If your new timer is in manually start each station and this will pop up the heads and show any problems with each zone/circuit. If new timer isn't in you can open each valve manually and check the heads and general condition of the sprinkler system.

[@gabespalding8964]

Thank you for this informative video. Can you tell what you do to ensure no dirt gets in the downstream (to the sprinkler heads) pipe?

[@Iscaper]

No! Don't file the threads. From what I can gather from your comments you have a Weathermaster 57624 sprinkler valve with threaded inlet and outlet. I'm guessing it's 1" female threads. Buy 2 Poly insert 1" male adapters and thread the male adapter portion of the fittings into the sprinkler valve. One in the inlet and one in the outlet. Then push the insert part of each fitting into your 2 Poly pipes. Then clamp the insert part of each fitting.

[@nicktorres9416]

Nice video. I would add to purge the main water lines before attaching the valves just in case any rocks or debris entered the system.

[@Iscaper]

Nick Torres Good tip, thanks for posting.

[@choenes]

How would you do this? Wouldn't you just end up with a bunch of mud and rocks getting back into the system if you turned on the water without anything attached to the manifold?

[@Iscaper]

You could use a short piece of wood to block up the manifold then flush.

[@Kyle-cv3de]

Leave that to a pro, if you flush shit back into your system you'll regret that for months

[@flexor212000]

My backyard sprinklers have 2 valves. I'd like to add at least 1-2 more to split them up. How hard would that be to do?

[@Iscaper]

Definitely Schedule 40 pipe. Poly tubing requires insert fittings and clamps which are time consuming to work with. Also, Schedule 40 pipe will operate at much higher pressures than poly pipe.

[@notafanboy250]

Awesome no bullshit video. Good stuff.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

[@dalatina911]

Thank you! Very detailed and to the point (:

[@Iscaper]

Glad it was helpful!

[@bigheadmarkie]

Awesome video!!! I live in Michigan, and we have pretty cold winters. My understanding is that PVC is ok for the manifold, but the preferred method for lateral lines is POLY. I read several of your comments, and you prefer PVC pipe for the entire system. Can you please explain why?

[@Iscaper]

Schedule 40 PVC pipe has a higher psi rating than poly pipe, 480psi vs 160psi. In my experience poly pipe that has been installed for a number of years has a tendency to become brittle and fail. Hose clamps and pinch clamps used to attach fittings to pipe also tend to rust and fail over time.

[@imking1002]

Ok good to know, thank you. I'm up in Canada and I've never used schedule 40 but I hear from some other contractors that doesn't fare as well in the cold... but couldn't that be because they're just not winterizing properly?

[@sajidullah]

Hi..How is a valve opened "manually" if the solenoid is shot ? With that small knob on the valve?

[@CamiloAntigua]

What would be the problem if I turn a bit the primer and no water comes out in the sprinkler heads? Thanks.

[@pilotmedic]

In this video did you conected each vlv individually or they run in secuence.....meaning one vlv supply electricidi to yhe next vlv.....I just put pavers inbmy house and I cap the end of the sprinkler heads, but I am concerne they leak.....If I didsconect that zone from the cables the rest of the sprinklers would work? Thanks

[@Iscaper]

Each valve is wired separately except for the common wire. The timer waters each valve in sequence. You can disable any valve by removing one wire connected to the solenoid.

[@boonsfrc]

Thank you for sharing I really appreciate it

[@Iscaper]

Thanks for watching!

[@cidpusa700]

Superb job love these rain-bird valves as compared to Orbit

[@footegreg]

Thanks for your videos ! I have a 7 zone system tat runs off city water now, can I run these valves off a 1" supply line from a newly installed pump or do I have to use an indexing valve ?

[@Iscaper]

Is the pump increasing the pressure from the city water or are you using a different water source? Either way, I don't see why you would need an indexing valve. If your pump is for a secondary water source you'll probably want to install a filter before the valves.

[@MrMusic55123]

Can you replace it without cutting the pipe? Just by unscrewing that black valve fitting from both sides?

[@Iscaper]

You'd need to make at least one cut downstream from the sprinkler valve. Another option you could try is to buy a new valve identical to current valve and replace top half of old sprinkler valve with top half of new sprinkler valve.

[@Iscaper]

You can remove the screws, take the solenoid out, and replace it with a new solenoid.

[@Iscaper]

Do you mean why bury the valves and piping?

[@chadhelvey7827]

Great video. I have a leaky valve. I tried replacing the diaphragm yesterday but the valve is still leaking which is also making one of the valves in that system leak as well. Do you recommend trying to replace the valve next? Not sure what to do next.

[@Iscaper]

I would first try buying a new valve the same model as the old valve and taking the top half parts from the new valve and installing them on the bottom half of the old valve. I've had good luck doing this. If this step doesn't work you'll have to cut out the old valve.

[@rafaetkhanrk6475]

Super excellent, good job 👍🏻rain bird. But I missing Timer connection for valves

[@glengarbera7367]

Im assuming the timer wires are low voltage? I've watched a few videos and never seen wires heat shrunk, always marretts.

[@Iscaper]

Yes, timer and wiring are 24VAC.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@sergiolg73]

This is a great video you the man

[@Iscaper]

Thanks Sergio.

[@Iscaper]

@jettastreetracer Patience is one of the most important tools when working on sprinkler systems. Thanks for the comment.

[@fazer2747]

I have an automatic timer sprinkler system that just flat out stopped working the other day. The power is on to the display and when it is supposed to start watering, I can see the display turn on and start the timer, but the water doesn't turn on. Any idea what this might be caused by?

[@Iscaper]

Could be a lot of things. For the whole system not to water it's probably a bad timer, a cut in the timer wire to the sprinkler valves, or your water is off. If you have water to the valves and they will open & water manually I would check if the timer is outputting power to the valves next.

[@KyleCarrington]

iScaper1 well siad, could be a bad common wire too.

[@Iscaper]

@tmcgurran Thanks for the feedback.

[@Iscaper]

I've never had a 100DVFUU valve leak because of the o-ring, and I've never had to go back and re-tighten the connection.

[@DavidRodriguez-wd2sz]

Hi is there a way there to check for power on the timer wires?

[@Iscaper]

Yes. Manually turn on the station at the timer and then use a multi-tester at the valve to test the power. Here's a couple of videos that might help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZe1kKKvnLWobtU kzbin.info/www/bejne/moS2qoCkgaZnj9k

[@culayta]

where did you get that blue pvc glue, I can only find purple. Also did you use a T-handle to seperate your primer and glue.

[@marala11]

Nice cool explanation. Crystal clear. Thanks...

[@DejBlankC]

You made that look easy! I have a question though, I have 5 valves in the box. 4 we just got replaced with new ones. My question is if I have 5 valves shouldn't I have 5 modules working in the sprinkler system box? I have a rainbird.

[@Iscaper]

If you have the ESP Modular timer, it comes out of the box able to run four valves. You would need one module installed to run the 5th valve. Check that you have 5 stations/valves wired at the timer, and check that you have a common wire from the valves connected to the common terminal on the timer. Whoever replaced the valves should have checked that everything is wired correctly and works.

[@DejBlankC]

iScaper1 thank you for the reply. It did take me all day to figure out that in fact, there are only 4 zones connected in the timer box! (before yesterday I knew absolutely nothing about sprinkler systems and how they worked. I had to look on here to figure it out!) I looked at it closer and I think the reason why they didn't hook up the 5th one is because the first 'cluster' only has 4 slots to put 4 zones on it. Basically I will need to buy a new 'cluster' to add the 5th valve. Another thing is, all of the zones wires are yellow, and the only wire left (I am thinking it is for the 5th zone) is grey. So, I'm not even sure I want to try to plug that in if I do buy a new cluster. What if it isn't for the 5th zone and I totally break the box haha. At least I know what the problem was even if I don't fix it. I will just manualy turn on the valve for the 5th one to water the flowers I have in the yard.! Thank you very much for all of the help. your video was very useful!

[@DejBlankC]

The person who replaced the valves did check the valves and water and timer. He didn't speak good English and I tried to explain to him the situation. Oh well, at least he did a good job on the valves.

[@Iscaper]

DejBlankC There's a couple of ways you can go here, you can buy another module and hook the 5th valve up or you can wire two valves together. I would go with the first option and buy another module. That way you can water that zone independent of the other zones. Often you don't have enough flow to wire two zones together. The grey wire at the timer is probably the valve/zone wire for the 5th valve. Can you go to the valves and see if there is a spare wire that is grey? If that doesn't work you might want to get a multi-tester, hook up the grey wire to the 5th valve terminal, manually start valve/zone #5, and check the grey wire in the valve box for power.

[@houstonsprinkler7005]

Possibly a MASTER VALVE. separate insirt on controller . Not labeled in zones.

[@thedangerroomtv]

Rainbird Union Valve? I've searched all over the web and no such thing? What Rainbird model are you using? Is the Union and add on can't find that either? cheers

[@Iscaper]

Rain Bird quit making the union valve a few years ago. I've been using Action manifolds since then. Here's a link to my video with an Action manifold: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaHIpaWlhdymZ5I

[@JimLou]

Great video, but I can't find rainbird valve with union adapter. What's rainbird valve you used?

[@Iscaper]

The valve I used in the video is Rain Bird's 100DVFUU union valve. Rain Bird quit making the valve a few years ago. I've gone to Action manifolds using Rain Bird's 100 DVF valve with threaded female inlets. Here's a link to my new video using an Action manifold with Rain Bird valves: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaHIpaWlhdymZ5I

[@JimLou]

watched your new video, thanks so much!

[@Iscaper]

@@JimLou Thanks for watching.

[@mrpumba2147]

The top right you connect some type of end cap, what is it and what is it for. Why not use a standard end cap?

[@Iscaper]

Automatic Drain. When the water is shut off in the fall it will automatically drain water out of the manifold.

[@lindabare4860]

Can you show on video how you made the original manifold

[@shaunw5391]

I can't find the kind of valve with with the internal o-rings you used here. Are they discontinued?

[@Iscaper]

Yes, Rain Bird discontinued the union valve.

[@markking2479]

Where is the parts list? I can not find the unions that you used to connect the valves.

[@psjr1]

Where do you get the couplings that were used on the valves?

[@cristobalpacheco4202]

When you use the automatic drain on the end, does that do away with the need to blow out sprinklers in winter? Thanks

[@Iscaper]

Low spots and end of runs if they are the low spots. No need to blow the system out if it has automatic drains.

[@keithlandry1642]

How do I determine what model my valves are? I have a Rainbird controller but the valves, which are about 10 years old, do not match any on the Rainbird web site. Thanks.

[@Iscaper]

+Keith Landry Sometimes it's not easy to do. Even though the timer may be Rain Bird the valves may or may not be. You could take a picture then go to a sprinkler supply dealer and see if they can match it up, or you can email me a picture and I'll see if I can help.

[@kabaweeliamsakala2342]

thanks for the tutorial but where do i get those kind of sprinklers in Zambia southern Africa?

[@Iscaper]

+Kabawe Eliam Sakala Unfortunately Rain Bird discontinued the 100DVF union valves that are used in the video, but you can still buy 100DVF threaded and slip valves. Here's a link for Rain Bird dealers in Africa: www.rainbird.com/worldwide/Africa.htm

[@sinsin1972]

Are these valves not available anymore? I checked everywhere online and can't find anything with the model number you posted on your website.

[@Iscaper]

Rain Bird quit making the union valve. I've been using Action manifolds since. Here's a link to my latest video using Action manifolds and fittings: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaHIpaWlhdymZ5I

[@dysfunctional_vet]

2 questions: 1) did you map this out on paper first before building as the design is so clean compared to what i normally see, the second question is was freezing a problem in the past?

[@Iscaper]

No, but I did plan out the piping runs in advance. Freezing is always an issue in this part of the country.

[@IMK99]

excellent work and video

[@Iscaper]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@ricardogarcia7463]

Very helpful!!! I’m subscribing!

[@nawtn]

One of my zones remains partially on after going to the next zone therefore decreasing the pressure of that next zone. What would cause this the actual solenoid or the valve diaphragm?

[@Iscaper]

+nawtn Could be the diaphragm but usually it's debris or rocks in the valve that keep it from closing.

[@nawtn]

Thank you!

[@blackweddowable]

nice video, nice instruction.

[@Iscaper]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@Iscaper]

@isocanon Thanks for watching and for the feedback.

[@williamcarter4242]

Thank you…I find , when I’m…not feeling quite.. so , at my best, a little down.. we’ll I just re-play your video, and my day becomes brighter..thank you , until we meet again..

[@mdz0739]

Very helpful. Thanks!

[@Iscaper]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnwmckown]

@JACQUESFAUST1 As the man said, replacement is for when you can no longer get diaphragms for old obsolete valves, which is pretty often. I for instance have a 15 yr old system that has Richdel R-201 valves that must have been sitting on the shelf for years before they were even installed. Find me diaphragms for those.

[@johnkosheluk1041]

Hi kerry have u ever had 2 deal with inrush on spr sol i am bying a fluke 376 clamp meater just 4 testing

[@sleeplessinasia6378]

I don't use my sprinkler system anymore and one of the valves is leaking. Can I just remove the valves altogether and replace them with a PVC pipe?

[@Iscaper]

Yes you can bypass the manifold with a piece of pipe. I would put a slip cap over the ends of the circuit/zone lines running away from the manifold so that they don't fill up with dirt. That way if you decide to use the system in the future you won't have trouble with dirt and rocks in the lines.

[@Kyle-cv3de]

You should close your back flow and severe the pipe at the source

[@nevadawitzer739]

can you do a quick video on the buckner superior irrigation controler i just bought a new house and i cant seem to figure out how to use it thanks

[@Iscaper]

Just looked up the Buckner Sterling controllers online, they seem pricey for a home application, over $600. Here's a link to the manual that might help: www.bucknersuperior.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=Rtn6aiTM02k%3d&tabid=343&mid=1441

[@nevadawitzer739]

thank you, it came with the house and it has twenty four stations witch is why i think it was so expensive and not like a regular twelve station controller.

[@Iscaper]

Nevada Witzer It does look like a commercial controller.

[@Iscaper]

Not the ocean but wind. It was incredibly windy the day I changed the valves.

[@benjaminluera4826]

Kerry, Hi noticed you used two different kinds of adhesive when connecting your PVC. Why is that and what are they?

[@Iscaper]

+Benjamin Luera First step is to primer pipe and fitting, then apply the glue. Primer softens and cleans the pipe/fitting so you get a good chemical bond with the glue.

[@benjaminluera4826]

Thanks was redoing some cracked pvc fittings for my the irrigation in the front that was leaking in around three spots. Good advice, appreciate the response.

[@Iscaper]

+Benjamin Luera Thanks Benjamin and good luck on your repairs.

[@henrysegar6589]

Thanks,will try it.