It had the wrong fluid! WJ QuadraDrive Service - Axles, NV247 Transfer Case - Fluid Change How-To

[@johnj4571]

Thank you for including the torque specs. Very helpful for the weekend mechanics 🙂

[@VortexGarage]

No prob! Glad it is helpful!

[@terrystratford1235]

@VortexGarage question....no heat from vents! I have air flow...ac is ice cold!new rad, waterpump, core, doorblends and actuators! Been flushed 3 times! Everything's working according to diagnostic machine! What could it be?

[@jovangrbic97]

@VortexGarage You are wrong about the torque spec at 16:54 for the rear sway bar, it is 54Nm/40 ft-lbs for the 4 bolts for the sway bar bracket/retainer that holds the rubber bushings on the axle tube, 54Nm/40 ft-lbs for the link on the sway bar side, and 92Nm/ 68 ft-lbs for the link on the frame side. The removal procedure and figure in the FSM make this clear. Thanks for all the tips though!

[@howardgilbert5008]

Great video! That Mopar friction modifier is VERY important$

[@VortexGarage]

Thanks! And most definitely on the friction modifier!

[@codester7000]

Very very informative and settles alot of debates and confirms alot

[@131601]

Great explanation. Thanks for the video. I’m tackling this later in the week, great refresher.

[@rvmagnum5415]

Are you sure you dont have a bad rear trans seal ,leaking trans fluid into the transfer case. it was over full when you pulled the fill plug.

[@crasbee]

13:55 I found out that wire wheels and the soft bristle disc only polish the rust and you have this black-ish layer still remaining, which is actually still rust. If you hit it with sand paper, you get the typical orange rust dust again. That's usually the cause if something starts to rust really quickly again. For the pneumatic grinder, you should be able to find CSD discs (usually purple and they have this alien sponge appearance). They are REALLY great for taking off rust but not affecting the healthy metal. They are a bit on the expensive side but they work really well.

[@VortexGarage]

Awesome tip, thanks! Def agree the rust is still there just the scale is gone. Those csd discs should definitely do the trick

[@davidpowell3347]

(about 7:00 ) I wonder if cycling the positrac by turning the wheel to pump out some more lube is good to get a more complete drain-but might mean you need to do a top up after driving after the initial refill should the positrac friction modifier make the lube more cloudy than what came out? my quadradrive posi makes it hard to turn a wheel by hand with the other wheel on the ground

[@valdezabel]

I appreciate the funny elevator move when appearing on camera AND the torque specs! PS...you forgot the 3m scrub thing in your description.

[@VortexGarage]

Good catch! I'll update the description tonight and in the meantime here's an Amazon link if you need it: amzn.to/3kJGtr0 Edit:. Description updated - thanks again!

[@loftismark]

Great stuff! I just did the rear diff on my WJ. I thought it would be a quick and easy job, then I broke one of the sway bar bolts. It was a pretty difficult fight to get out. I ended up drilling it out completely and replacing it with a new bolt/nut. Now I'm procrastinating on doing the front diff lol.

[@VortexGarage]

I was thinking that when I was removing the sway bar mount bolts - how much fun (not!) it would be to drill them out. Well at least on the front you don't have to touch the bar!

[@YOUZTUBE2000]

Just snapped a sway bar bolt. Will probably have to drill it out. Any tips and clues would be appreciated. Is the nut welded to to the flange?

[@VortexGarage]

@@YOUZTUBE2000 I believe yes the nut is welded to the flange. You could try drilling out the bolt using a pilot and gradually increasing size. You may get lucky and can remove it. But it may be faster to simply cut the welded nut off the back, drill, and do metric 8.8 (or grade5) or metric 10.9 (grade 8) bolt and nut.

[@marcoantoniogarciabautista]

Greath job bro! Clean and easy....!!!!!!

[@VortexGarage]

Thanks 👍glad you enjoyed!

[@timlandsberg940]

My rear had an insane amount of flakes and dust in it. Never was able to find out where it came from though. Everything looks almost new

[@davidpowell3347]

Haven't watch it all yet but just in case I think the Trailer Tow package specify a different viscosity grade lube in one or both differentials. Some have limited slip rear only? Some have it in front also? The NV247 the transfer that has 4 wheel part time Lo? (As well as N and "4 wheel full time High") Some of the WJ only had "4 wheel full time all the time" only?

[@hangrymachinist]

I need to do this to mine. Thanks for the tips

[@VortexGarage]

Awesome, glad it was helpful and good luck on yours!

[@zyxnix]

Excellent video. well done.

[@brucegibson818]

I've never had a problem with lube locker gaskets. I hate dealing with rtv

[@marcoantoniogarciabautista]

Greath job my friend, thank's !!!

[@playfulmean]

What does it mean when only 1 wheel spins on the front? I have a 99 jgc with 4.7 quadradrive. When I put it in the air in drive all wheels except the drivers front spins. I don't know if it matters at all but my transfer case is also bad, under load on the ground the front drive shaft won't spin. I thought it was a bad front diff but it was diagnosed by a mopar tech

[@terrystratford1235]

When my dealer tapped in the reg it said normal gear oil! I had to tell him it's LSD needs the friction additive! 😅

[@thejoker3217]

very nice video, i have a 2003 jeep gc 2.7 l mercedes engine with quadra drive, it has only high and low range, the problem is in high range front wheels stopped spinning(i got stuck in snow and only rear wheels were spinning), when i put it in low gear they start spinning again, what could be the problem? the transfer case? thank you

[@davidpowell3347]

Some kind of a front axle disconnect operated by a vacuum servo that can go bad or suffer a cracked or fallen off vacuum hose? Probably not the fault of the transfer case. Old square Jeep Cherokee (not Grand) used to get that problem. (I think the lever that shifted the transfer case also activated a vacuum switch that disconnected or connected the front axle disconnect) My USA 4.7 WJ does not have a front axle disconnect. Front axle engaged all the time but transfer case doesn't feed torque to the front driveshaft unless it senses the front spinning slower than the rear driveshaft. (Unless in 4 wheel Lo which locks front and rear driveshafts together and drives them through gear reduction)

[@thejoker3217]

@@davidpowell3347 mine its the same, you cant disconnect the front axle, its permanent awd, i dont think its vacuum operated

[@davidpowell3347]

That does makes it sound like something wrong in the transfer. Putting it into Lo probably locks the driveshafts together and bypasses whatever was supposed to supply the full time demand torque for Hi. On mine you can barely spin the rear wheels very slowly in snow without the front wheels pulling much but give a little bit of gas and the front wheels accelerate the vehicle strongly. @@thejoker3217

[@FixLife119]

I have an '05 WK 5.7 and I'm just finding out that when I used ATF+4 (months ago) because that's what my manual said, it was a misprint in the owners manual and it should have NV245, NV247, NV249. I don't drive it a whole lot, I've maybe put 300 miles on it, mainly short trips. Do you think this has done any damage to the ransfer case?

[@charlesgrimm7382]

When the fsm was printed, it was atf4. I've read somewhere that atf4 retains water and doesn't play nice with the 247. Mopar changed it to their fluid, which I believe is a rebranded Mobil tractor gear oil. I don't think you did any damage to the transfer case. Drain and refill. Worst case you can pick up another 247 practically at any junkyard. The main component in it is the progressive coupler, which unfortunately is not serviceable.

[@FixLife119]

@@charlesgrimm7382 That's what I did, that was about 8 month ago. She's all good still, but if I remember right, that damned oil was like $20 a quart. You're probably right about it being tractor gear oil, prob $2/qt, then they slap their sticker on it and jack the price up 10x lol.

[@mcplutt]

Pro tip: LubeLocker has gaskets for the diff covers. Makes servicing easy.

[@VortexGarage]

I really need to try those. They are reusable too which is great. That and no setup time for rtv cure.

[@mcplutt]

@@VortexGarage Yes, I got the Dana35 gasket 12 years ago. There were no Dana44A gasket available then, but there is now 🙂Ordered one in 2019.

[@conan670431]

Do you need a modifier in the transfer case as well like in the diffs or purely the right fluid?

[@JoeGrasso-fl1gn]

The Mopar fluid has the friction modifier already added. So just need the correct fluid. As was mentioned in the video, do not use AFT in the 247.

[@trucker7176]

What kind of noise did you have in the rear? I have a 2000 and when I make a sharp turn the rear end acts like it’s in a bind

[@MiguelJimenez-un4rm]

I had the same issue when I got my 2001 jeep grand cherokee limited 4.7l. I used The Genuine Mopar Fluid 4318060AB Limited Slip Additive - 4 oz. Bottle. I believe I used 2.5 0z. Got rid of the binding right away.

[@CameronDC-Grimes]

Why is your gas tank so high up. Is my rear springs saggy or something? Half my bolts are covered by Fuel tank cover. I have no access to most of them and only 3" to wrench by hand with the required 13mm/1/2" Mine is a 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac and says 80W-90 gear oil on right tag plate. I believe i have DANA-44a

[@VortexGarage]

Two things - here I had the jeep in the air, so the axle was hanging down as far as it would go. Second, this WJ doesn't have the fuel tank skid plate - if you have that extra skid plate (an option on some WJs) it may result in less cleraance.

[@madmacc040]

Both front and rear are open. Not Quadra drive

[@gtaylor1564]

👍👍🙏🙏

[@johnswanson3741]

You make no sense, goodbye!