It's a matter of a pinion for an FK slot car motor (JK Hawk Retro)

A bit of a longer video this week. I don't quite know how it ended up so long but I have covered quite a lot of things that should be useful.
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[@7732147]

Another great video James. I've always hated soldering pinions but after watching this video I know where I have been going wrong. Cheers buddy.

[@CleaveTech]

Thanks Ian 👍🏻

[@modelracecar]

Everything you could want in one helpful video, thanks James.

[@CleaveTech]

Thank you. Really glad it was useful and informative 😁

[@micgent]

Thank you for the video. Being new to the sport Im just about to build my first 1/32 chassis. Very informative.

[@CleaveTech]

The Genesis chassis in the video is a really good 1/32 chassis. It is designed and built by Richard Mack.

[@CleaveTech]

Good luck with your first build.

[@micgent]

It's the 1/32 AB PRO-AM Sports chassis that I'm getting, the motor is soldered in. I can solder but I don't have the knowledge that come from years in the hobby. Luckily I'm in a good club with helpful members Raceway81 Birtley

[@CleaveTech]

@@micgent That is a good chassis and will work well. I know a lot of the guys in that club and you are in good hands. 👍🏻

[@r3d_ti3_guy]

I use painters tape wrapped around the motor to cover the holes. A fresh piece of tape grabs any left over dust magnetically attached after.

[@CleaveTech]

Nice idea 👍🏻 Thanks for sharing.

[@r3d_ti3_guy]

Exactly what I do.

[@Dracoool]

Well done and greetings from northern Alberta Canada.

[@CleaveTech]

Thank you. Hello Northern Alberta Canada 👋

[@rickhyde6831]

I like the idea about angle pinions for “During Race” tire changes or gear replacement (axle, tire and spur gear replacement in one complete switch). If the spur gear is setup optimally, it shouldn’t slip by the pinion and causes a slow “During Race” pitstop. A “During Race” repair isn’t the end of a race, it’s damage reduction. (GR)

[@CleaveTech]

Hi Rick. Thank you for your comment. JK do not recommend angled pinions on their motors as this can produce a lateral force on the motor shaft pushing the commutator into the end bell. Many people have run angled pinions without a problem though 🤷‍♂️. I also like the ability to pull the gear and tyre off in one manoeuvre if a gear or tyre change is necessary. In the UK we have to run that gear ratio in the INTRO32 class so the angled gears are probably best.

[@ACCOUNTANTB]

its great idea to round the pinion corners and also the motor axle. makes less vibration...i recomend polishing the pinion teeth with dremel brass tools....cheers Rio / Brazil !

[@CleaveTech]

I have seen people polish the leading edge of the pinion teeth but sometimes I have seen people do this too much and not have enough tooth engagement. I find that brushing the teeth by hand with a small wire brush after soldering is enough to remove any burrs but as you suggested, a brass wire brush in a Dremel shouldn’t be too abrasive. 👍🏻

[@ACCOUNTANTB]

hello !! shure....but i do this only with an older pinions...not brand new ones....and when i do....i use that small dremel instead of 3000/4000. and with low rpm. brass brushing very soft ones......

[@lucasnitti]

Gracias por la exelente data!! Saludos desde Argentina - Villa gral belgrano Cordoba

[@CleaveTech]

Thank you 🙏

[@infomattech]

Dubs taught me the nail polish way.

[@anthonypoole6901]

Theres some nutty slot car rules there. . Then again i dont round track run here in the states! Im a drag car guy im running anglewinders @60,000 to 70,000 rpm on foam tires🤷‍♂️ sometimes ill run an inline same rpms with a drive shaft into a differential. Really depends on what im shooting for tho.

[@astro_puppet3159]

Just recently found your channel. Such great information! Also LOVE that you use ARP gears. Its my Uncle's company. Told him about your motor analyzer, can't wait for the next release! Slot cars are a family affair over here. Keep up the great content!!

[@jmcleave]

Thanks for watching. The ARP gears are lovely gears at good prices. Please tell your Uncle to keep up the excellent work and contact me if he wants me to review any new products. I am currently preparing a number of CleaveTech review videos for release soon.

[@astro_puppet3159]

@@jmcleave Passed along the message and your email!

[@jmcleave]

@@astro_puppet3159 Thankyou 🙏

[@r3d_ti3_guy]

Please ask your uncle to make gears half the thickness for us heads up drag racers. 15t-20t

[@astro_puppet3159]

@@r3d_ti3_guy He said he has the thin 15s and just got the blanks for 16s 😁

[@charlie1872]

Interesting. I am attempting to replace a worn alloy pinion with a new brass cog on my Hornby Ringfield motor. It is challenging as in this case it is an interference/machine fit. I tried immersing the brass cog in boiling water but as the axle is spring loaded, I couldn’t get enough pressure on the cog Maybe through heat transfer the heat might have been lost through the steel tools I was using to hold the cog

[@CleaveTech]

You could try cutting the gear nearly all the way through without damaging the shaft. You could probably then just break it off or pull it off.

[@saxmusicmail]

Using an ordinary "lead" pencil where you want solder to stop works well. This is an old musical instrument repair technique.

[@CleaveTech]

Love this. I will have to try it 👍🏻

[@glennledrew8347]

I would cover the whole motor with masking tape before cutting the shaft.

[@timminer5774]

I envy being able to use a small soldering tip. We use Weller 4033S tips here with 7760 handles. You probably know the one I mean. I assume it's because you use 220V not 110V.

[@CleaveTech]

I used to think that a big soldering iron tip was necessary but when I started to realise that soldering is easy if you use the right flux and keep the soldering area clean, I was able to use smaller tips. It also helps to have a fast recovering iron. I think that larger tips are needed for soldering all brass chassis, but for flexi cars a 3.2mm or 5mm tip is fine.

[@saxmusicmail]

I'm an old 1960's slot racer in the USA. Pinions are not press-fit now? I only ever had to solder one pinion, and that was on a Pittman motor with 1/8" diameter shaft that was to power a "rail job" drag car. Every other motor, most all Mabuchis, they pressed on. Back then Cox made a great pinion tool that would both press on and remove pinions.

[@CleaveTech]

Low powered slot cars still use press on pinions. The top level slot car motors nowadays have the shaft ground to 1.2mm and use 5t pinions!

[@saxmusicmail]

@@CleaveTech The 36D's had .091" dia shafts, and the 16D and 26D's had .078"/2mm shafts. I didn't know about the 1.2 mm shafts. The smallest pinion I had used was a 6t pinion. More often 8t.

[@genemanno1533]

I too did slot cars s a kid in ‘60s but we used to build our own frames and wind or own small can motor armatures. Now everything I see on line is purchased.

[@keithwthe1andonly]

Is there anything that you do to help improve the coast of your cars? I’m talking when the track turns off.

[@CleaveTech]

Making sure there is minimal friction in the gears and axle will help coasting. You can also make sure you hold the trigger down when the power goes off as this will bypass the braking circuit on most controllers.

[@kevinmcmanis7335]

Great video! What is that chassis, and who makes it? Who can I purchase it from? I can't find anyone here in America who sells that chassis. The interest in 32nd scale is almost nonexistent here. Good chassis and bodies are very hard to find, except for Womps, and I'm non interested in those. Thanks!

[@CleaveTech]

Hi Kevin. The chassis is a Genesis 1/32 chassis. It is made by Richard Mack and is the control chassis in the BSCRA beginners class. You can find Richard Mack on Facebook or email him here: [e-mail]

[@WaveMaker124]

Thanks again, James. I'm guessing that you don't shorten the pinion, or at least by not as much, for inline classes to leave the possibility open to running different size contrate gears without needing to move the pinion?

[@CleaveTech]

I might still shorten the pinion for inline classes but as you say, not as much. 👍🏻

[@danielmedina8262]

How are you. I wanted to ask you a question about how to accentuate the brushes of the g12 motor, you can accentuate them in "cold" or natural water, or accentuate them with a chemical. ? I would like to know, to accentuate them and not spoil them. From already thank you very much. I am new. (I've been 10 years) in slot cars. I learn a lot from your videos. and as they say in this environment. I am putting together my little book. haha

[@CleaveTech]

I have found with G12 motor brushes that they don’t need running in under water as the motors draw a lot more current as standard. I use a range of diamond hones to finish the brushes to a size that nearly matches the commutator, then I run the motor for approximately 40 minutes on 3.0V

[@ronthornton2583]

Why do you mount the pinion with the protruding collar facing the motor and not vice versa?

[@CleaveTech]

Although I cut the pinion to save weight, the collar provides more surface area to solder to, giving a stronger solder joint. The collar is also a small diameter so it has less effect on rotating mass.

[@saxmusicmail]

What is the reason for soldering the motor to the frame, rather than screws? Soldering would surely make motor changes very slow and difficult.

[@CleaveTech]

Soldering the motor to the chassis helps keep the centre of gravity lower and reduces the overall weight compared to using a bracket and screws. Also some of the very smallest motors do not have screw holes and the windings of the armature are extremely close to the end of the motor.

[@saxmusicmail]

@@CleaveTech Thanks, Cleave. Didn't know that. It's been about 5 decades since I raced / built cars.

[@JoevsRc]

How many RPM could you gain from cutting down the pinion?

[@CleaveTech]

Using a narrow pinion doesn’t necessarily gain RPM, it reduces rotating mass, which helps the motor spin up and slow down more quickly. That will make the car more responsive. It also lightens the overall car.

[@harryw9598]

cleave lovely job. did i hear it right is it a 1:32 scale? i do a bit of racing too. often i see the max rpm of the motors. are there any numbers of watt and torque? i know the old mabuchi motors are listed with torque. as for the pinion did you ever tried green loctite? you have to work fast and the fit must be not to wide. regards

[@CleaveTech]

Yes, the chassis in the video is 1:32 scale. It is a Genesis chassis made by Richard Mack in the UK. It is the standard chassis for the British Slot Car Racing Association’s beginner class. These sort of motors don’t come with figures for torque or Watts. You could probably work it out by measuring the stall current. I have used loctite to glue on gears in the past but I find it can sometimes fail after a few months. Maybe it is the oil and cleaning fluids that attack the loctite?

[@harryw9598]

@@CleaveTech thanks for answering i ment the loctitie 638 its green and mean... strong stuff though the thing it dont like is heat, you could be right.

[@CleaveTech]

@@harryw9598 , yes that is the stuff I used 😁 I recognise the number now.

[@onlinehelper374]

If you make a gear to run freely on shaft when you don't need it, you will have a 2-speed gearbox.

[@CleaveTech]

I am not quite sure what you mean? The pinion is soldered onto the motor shaft.

[@onlinehelper374]

@@CleaveTech If you make it can spin when shaft is stoped, you will have 2 speeds.One is gear mesh, second is motor shaft and tire mesh if the shaft is long enough.Cause it's metal gear, you can use an electric magnet to move it.

[@CleaveTech]

@@onlinehelper374 , Thank you. I understand now. I think they might use that method in Radio Controlled cars.

[@onlinehelper374]

@@CleaveTech yes, they use close method.

[@billyfran1]

I could have done so much better when racing if I had seen this video!

[@CleaveTech]

Hopefully you will be able to come back to racing one day 🤞

[@chuckingram5966]

So is that what you do let metal dust get in a customers used motor because it doesn't really matter

[@CleaveTech]

In the video you can see that I use an old motor to cut the pinion which is the process that causes the most metal dust. I only give the pinion a light skim when it is soldered onto the race motor. I also thoroughly clean the race motor after the pinion is soldered and located properly. This is also my own motor and car, not a customer’s car. I would always prepare a car for someone else to the same standards as my own.