J'd Out Kickout Installation Guide - Starting from Shingled Roofing to Vinyl Siding

Sharing the ease of installation of the J'd Out Kickout Flashing.

[@aj7009]

I wish I could pay you to redo my roof 😢I am in dyer straights. My roof needs replacement disperately. Your product would be a miracle for my roof. Thank you 👍

[@ny8956]

*dire

[@vintageMIDI]

Well done explanation. Thank you!

[@micheldescoteaux7192]

Be nice to see if more contractors use this method prevent water intrusion into the Gable and cause major Rot.👍

[@mrharlemike28]

Great detail! Definitely subscribing!

[@americanflashings2510]

Awesome, thank you!

[@thernly]

There’s always going to be some compromise with kickout and J channel competing for the same space. Your solution requires J channel to turn vertical at bottom of roof pitch which means the J channel at that joint will always be filled with water and muck. Also, do you install J channel flush against the shingles with no space? $38 for two plastic kickouts?

[@Beandiptheredneck]

Personally I'd leave the end of the J cut off and open at that bottom corner for exactly that reason. I actually like doing kickouts, it involves a little thought and creativity to get water to go where it needs to

[@paulkrivanec339]

I agree with Tim's observation about the vertical j-channel. Why not use the same principle with the j-channel at the top of the kickout, bending it down and leaving a gap above the j-channel that runs along the roof? There should be a 1/2" min. gap (prefer to to see 1" min.) between the bottom of the j-channel and the asphalt shingles for expansion/contractions and to allow inspectors to visually see the step flashing is in place. The top flashing tape should overlap the side flashing tape completely too. Overall great product and detailed explanation of the install in the video!

[@aj7009]

I need a roof replacement. I've been saving to pay for repairs.

[@woodstream6137]

​@@aj7009 good luck. Just had mine done and have a new leak. Read the contract, a lot of stuff like wood and flashing will only be replaced as needed. Looks like i need flashing fixed where an addition meets the 2nd floor.

[@aj7009]

@@woodstream6137 You are so Right 👍 My roof was recently done by a charity for hurricane repair. I challenged their method of replacement. The company hired by the charity assured me that my roof didn't need to be replaced in this video's method 😳 The charity agreed with the company and not me 🤬 I'm hoping it turns out well.

[@davidhazen2394]

Nice video! Do you metal option?

[@beerkeller]

Is there a different option rather than driving nails for the J Chanel 1 1/2 inches above the shingles and right through the lower part of the flashing? It seams like a possible leak problem.

[@americanflashings2510]

There may be different ways to seal the nails used to install J channel. Looking at your vinyl siding manufacturers best installation practices may be helpful.

[@mrdinky1253]

Do you have a drawing detail showing all dimensions of your flashing? If not, could you please provide the following dimensions - J-channel width? Distance from bottom of flashing to bottom of J-channel? Thank you

[@gary24752]

I always called out for self adhering roof membrane up the walls a minimum of 18 inches in my drawings to make sure there were no leaks.

[@americanclassicroofingbuil6765]

In order to keep the water from running down your sidewall, regardless of the membrane you install up the wall, you must have a Kickout flashing at the end of a step flashing run. Especially when the sidewall extends past that point. The J’d out Kickout is the only Kickout flashing that accomplishes this AND integrates with the siding!

[@joelwhaley623]

If it’s flashed correctly there’s no reason for roof membrane up the side walls. It’s a waste of time and material

[@gary24752]

@@joelwhaley623 Flashing is not going to help with a build up of snow from drifting that usually happens with roofs at different elevations.

[@gary24752]

@@joelwhaley623 It is just good construction, plain and simple. If you get a snow build up from snow drifting from an upper roof the last thing you want is water getting down into the wall in case of an ice dam even if flashed correctly. I am betting you don't apply ice and watershield to the gables either.

[@joelwhaley623]

@@gary24752 I usually go up the side walls on new construction but I think it’s a waste because the only time I see side walls leak is at the bottom corners… I don’t ice gables though just eaves and valleys

[@Brandon-no3vc]

Shouldn't you leave a gap between shingles and step flashing/wall , for expansion?

[@americanclassicroofingbuil6765]

Though not required for our product you certainly can do that. The J’d out Kickout will not expand or contract enough to affect this in any way. We’ve tested it now in the field for years in many different climates to verify this.

[@Brandon-no3vc]

@@americanclassicroofingbuil6765 I ment for the shingles dont they expand?

[@jimclark7917]

Will the jd kick out work with cement siding?

[@americanflashings2510]

Yes, It does!

[@willkelley4286]

The top of this is vulnerable. Rain the runs into channel on top of kickout will get behind siding. Flashing should be installed behind gutter board and forced onto housewrap at minimum or onto lower piece of siding. Nice product but installation is missing a critical step

[@americanclassicroofingbuil6765]

Agreed! The top of the Kickout flashing is roughly +/- 4 inches Depending on the pitch of the roof. Which is a tiny percentage of the water running down a gable wall and also the run of the step flashings on almost any job. That is why we show taping the kick out flashing into the housewrap so that the very, very small amount of water that may get on top of the kick out flashing is diverted to the top side of the house wrap. The major point of any kick out flashing is to divert the large amount of water that runs down the step flashing run out away from the sidewall so that it does not run down the sidewall and rot out the wall sheeting and more in the home. The J’d Out Kickout is the only kick out flashing in the world that accomplishes this and also fully integrates with the siding. Thank you very much for your comment!

[@justinhurlock979]

Where can I get a kick out

[@eclipse-sh1qmZ3mOtcua]

Home Depot just recently started carrying them

[@forrealtyler]

Do you have item #s of these products

[@americanclassicroofingbuil6765]

Here are our most popular colors. Should you need the others for our other color options let me know 6537 R White 6535 L White 5931 L Black 5932 R Black

[@attacknblack1984]

@4:43, you created a new potential leak behind the kick-out flashing.

[@eclipse-sh1qmZ3mOtcua]

How so? Could you explain?

[@TAGGdinc]

Too far forward that channel should line up with your edge of fascia or where the back of a gutter would start. An average gutter that kickout would push water over the front.

[@americanflashings2510]

We appreciate your thoughts. Installed they marry up well with the gutters and shed water into them. Just as it was designed to do so. In extreme weather conditions with heavy wind and rain. There is a possibility for water to over run, but no different the water shedding past the gutter at a valley. With a standard 5" K style gutter water easily flows into the gutter (we have picture examples if you'd like us to send you some). There are also a couple of other easy fixes if you have a smaller gutter; you can install a splash guard on the gutter, and/or the kickout itself is very easily trimmed/modified with standard snip cutters if you need to make any further adjustments so the water is diverted into the gutter. Also, your suggestion is fine as well, you can install the J'd Out Kickout further up the roof into the 2nd or 3rd course of shingles if you prefer.

[@Artie1460]

Out

[@bibbidi_bobbidi_bacons]

J channel nails destroyed the purpose of the step flashing