Vanagon VW T25 T3 Blower Motor - PWM control upgrade (PT 2)

Final look at upgrading the VW Vanagon (T25, T3) Transporter dash blower/fan to a PWM controller by bypassing the resistors to give a linear motor speed range. The main reason for having it connected to an ignition live source is it stops the fan being inadvertently left on a low speed when you exit the vehicle and potentially flattening battery. How-to article at: club8090.co.uk... (link updated) - To touch base, "Covkid" on club8090 :)

[@afoxatemyinternet4215]

Nice mod. Have the blower fan job to do so will incorporate this mod at the same time.

[@only-vans]

Gonna save this one to my videos. Thanx Ralph.

[@vwthings]

No worries buddy ;)

[@Eric-uj9ih]

Thanks for the video. Interesting idea on the PWM. I LIke the idea of eliminating any additional heat sources tucked way up in the dash. I’m preparing to perform the full “meal-deal” on my dash. Heater core, blower motor, and wiper motor, And whatever else should be fixed while I’m in there. Can you recommend which PWM to purchase, which brand perhaps? I wonder if it would be possible to get on with a slightly longer shaft? Then one doesn’t have to cut any plastic inside the fascia plate. Just a thought. Cheers, Eric

[@vwthings]

Can't recommend one as they change regularly but aim for 20 amp. Also, replace your washer jet pipes while dash is out. Aquatic places sell it cheap ;)

[@Eric-uj9ih]

Good thought on the washer pipes. Gonna pull apart the wiper linkages and re-lube assembly. Wish me luck.

[@patrickfluke8584]

Great Job. Thanks.

[@barrybeckford2733]

Genius!, And very cheap ...any 15 to 20 controller from China ($10 to $20)..I did this 6 years ago

[@Eric-uj9ih]

PS- how has the little PWM unit been holding up?

[@vwthings]

Still working perfectly

[@Camp_Runamuck]

Could you post a link to the 80/90 forum artical ?

[@vwthings]

i have - see 'more'

[@foghorn_n16]

Can you advise whether the pwm needs to be rated at 25a? Seems like the fuse is this kind of rating. Thanks

[@vwthings]

Fuse should always be the weak point. Ordinarily the PWM shouldn't draw that much but you do need the overhead otherwise PWM could fail before fuse. If that makes sense :)

[@foghorn_n16]

Thanks, I read elsewhere on 80-90 that someone did a similar conversation and the PWM got hot.....I assumed that you need a certain size unit to handle the supply? On Ebay and Amazon the only indication of capacity seems to be the amperage - all are variable voltage . I'm aware that Brickwerks sell two large resistors for this job and am wondering what happens to all the heat with your method? Thanks v much for the helpful video!

[@vwthings]

Mine doesan't get hot at all but at 20amps max load its never overloaded. Power supply only required 50-% of the time (pulse) so shouldn't get hot although unit does have its own heatsink anyway. The resistor method is basically a crude toaster :D

[@adamwright9406]

Can you send me the link of the how to instruction, struggled to find the link

[@antonyomewo4953]

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