2g GSX LSD Rear Diff Rebuild

[@livingroomplace2865]

Been working on my own cars for 20+ years and Jafro's videos always remind me that I don't know anything.

[@Jafromobile]

Brother, you know how to get to work every day. If you've done that for the past 20 years and had a car whenever you were unemployed, then you're already an expert. That's really the only true measure of automotive proficiency. ;)

[@demonrox1228]

​@Jafromobile You really are just a golden beacon of joy and happiness aren't you 😂 I cannot describe the joy I get when a notification from your channel pops up

[@ronnieslides]

Been watching since I was in middle school over a decade ago, glad to see you still around Jafro!

[@Sitkospeed]

Been watching your videos since i was like 13 huge inspiration im now a tech in the process of starting my own buisness building engines and doing swaps in the process of getting my galant back on the road #7-1000 here 👍🏼

[@BasedEMT1776]

Jesus Jafro, I started to worry something had happened to you. It's been months! Glad to see you're back! (and healthy!)

[@MrLangleylad]

That turnbuckle hack is brilliant ! Thanks. I’m not a DSM guy but I still enjoy and appreciate your content.

[@jtamxgsx]

Sooo excited to dive into the Galant diff video after watching this!! Thanks Jafro

[@Jafromobile]

It's a huge video because I repaired and reassembled the entire Galant rear subframe (same as 1g AWD DSM) in a single video. "Complete rear subframe restoration" is its title.

[@jtamxgsx]

@Jafromobile Just finished watching it. Pure gold. Got a long road ahead of me tho!

[@soundslikebstome]

This is one of my first subs.....1000 years ago.

[@gophergoldmetaldetecting]

Great video! Can’t wait to see the GSX running again.

[@kinslayergaming3159]

Jafro, I was listening to you in my car as I was on my way home and the propane torch scared the everliving hell out of me. Thought I blew out the tire on my 95 Sentra

[@crackpotfox]

Never ever impact load a rolling element bearing! You'll brinnell the races! Great vid as usual Jafro.

[@Jafromobile]

That's exactly what everyone needed to see! ;) Cheers!

[@MrBezzar]

Even though it takes a while for you to upload.... I'm satisfied with every video you post. Best definition of quality over quantity. Hands down to you jaf! Pietiently waiting for more gvr4 content ! ❤

[@boosted2.4_sky]

LET'S GO JAFRO 🏁

[@christianallen9653]

Oh man, I got notified so quickly. Thanks Jafro, for the awesome Friday the 13th gift

[@erikshepherd7088]

I can't wait to see the King of Bling engine going back together. Maybe 2025 won't be such a bad year

[@Jafromobile]

Every day above the dirt is a gift, brother! I think Santa von Klaus heard you!

[@adven999]

To solve your Dykem/ marker application problem & get a perfect streak free even coverage use an air line..... Hold the marker etc close to what you want to cover then spray air over the tip with the air stream and marker tip inline with each other (coplanar). The airstream will draw the fluid from the tip by venturi action and effectively make a miniature spray gun... dries almost instantly too.

[@wma6019]

I'm swapping my 4.30 Ring and pinion out for a 5.10 soon on my Mazda RX-8, this will really help me familiarize with the process

[@goodkill1]

3:33 I did this with a Ford 8.8 irs, took the LSD out of a 3.73 and swapped it into an open 3.55

[@Jafromobile]

When all the parts are homologous, it really opens up a lot of options! It really opens up the parts supply chain making parts upgrades affordable, too! A little ingenuity is a great thing!

[@dk-ov2zf]

holy hell!! i never should have touched my rear end :( like an idiot i wanted my lowered 2g talon to have the correct alignment then got cursed with rear bushing that were seized to the bolts so then the end end had to come apart. I tired to do the right thing with replacing bushing for everything in the rear end, i could only find solid rear diff bushing and then the noises started.. oh no.. made my own rear diff bushing from poly 90A noises are still there coming from the rear.. hopefully the spare 2g open diff or 3/S VR4/RTTT diff.s i have will be usable but looks like i will be going down this road fun fun. thank you for this video!! i'm sure over the next couple months i will be watching, re-watching, and re-watching till i see this video in my sleep. thanks again for posting this!

[@nicksimadis2086]

Great video on a differential rebuild! The techniques are great for anyone wanting to rebuild an independent rear differential. The shim pack stuff, you may have been ablento get from like Yukon gear or somewhere similar. All around great explanation as always, Mr. Jafro.

[@patrickmoodabe9728]

Best. KZbinr. Ever. GOAT. 🤘🤘

[@ChristmasCrustacean1]

that shockproof looked like it was ready to be spread on a peanut butter sandwich. hope you have a good Christmas Jafro and a happy new year :)

[@litreland764]

Bit by bit, looking good

[@deuce454]

algorithm ... watched on patreon, but as a sacrifice to the KZbin algorithm id leave a comment here too

[@alltheboost5363]

I spent a week working on my last r180 LSD diff.... You know everything disassembly checking cleaning reassembly new bearings getting the parts everything. I always shoot for a little tighter and I've never had an issue..... if I put that much time and effort into a diff I'd probably go crazy. Out of curiosity how many days of work is this during what time span? If I had to guess I would say 4 or 5 days of actual work over like 2 or 3 weeks.

[@Jafromobile]

Add the powder coating, the 5 week parts delay, a 450 mile road trip, a 1,000 mile Thanksgiving road trip, college finals week, a funeral, and a poorly-polished diff cover, and suddenly we're at 3 months. But yeah if everything was here and finished before I started working on it, probably a couple of weekends would have done it.

[@willshen6597]

Fantastic episode! I learned so much!

[@sebericpas]

learn a lot always,thanks!Have you check de lsd side,like cluch and preload!?

[@Jafromobile]

It's good! I don't have the splined tool that fits this diff. The tests I did with it on the car and off of it with the axle shaft you saw on the floor, and it FELT alright. I confess not using feeler gauges or my incomplete set of diff tools. I may have to make my own tool. I keep buying the right discontinued, used tool by its part number and I'm getting repeats of the wrong ones now. There's 6 in the set, and I have multiples of 4/6 of them now. If I ever have to work on a Space Wagon or a Montero, I think I have it covered.

[@sebericpas]

@@Jafromobile Thanks ,i wait for the next video !😀

[@barnhouseinc]

FINALLY!!!! Hail to the king!!

[@mrworm1]

Jafro you need some wood blocks in that vice to give you grip.

[@dustylandrum5168]

You are a mad man scientist sir.

[@seymoarsalvage]

1:10 I KNEW you were lying lol

[@Jafromobile]

That's what an un-sanded finish does if you polish it. It's not that good. It really isn't. But nobody will be able to see it anyway because I have a spare tire well.

[@FlatLine8412]

You da man!!!

[@TrueBlueEG8]

Seasons greetings Jaf 😊

[@tunesandtunes]

And suddenly no one was scared to work on their rear diffs anymore 🎉

[@Jafromobile]

Raaree!

[@spineblaZe]

5:00 that worked amazing!

[@eugennomatterr7311]

4am here goes my sleep schedule

[@JesusIsImmanuel]

Another great video by Jafro

[@Korruptionen]

@4:03 I had to find this image again, because I was curious about the bracket they are using along with the dumb hammer handle method. The case spreader tool is brilliant, but I wondered if this bracket they are showing did anything to help spread the case in the same way. It says 11Y171 on the example pictured. What's that?

[@Jafromobile]

They call it a service fixture. The manual calls it a "working base". It's in the special tool section in the service manual. It's discontinued, I've never found it used, and it's one of the things in my saved searches. All it does is hold the diff securely and upright so that you're not chasing it all over the workbench. You clamp it in a vise and it stays put. MB990909 is the actual tool part number. It doesn't spread the case and it would actually obstruct the bolt holes I used to spread the case. They really want you to do it the hard way... lol

[@Mr7yhnmki8]

You need to a use micrometer to measure your shim thickness, not a caliper. Mitutoyo 103-177 (~$70 b4 tax & shipping) the .0001” scale wraps around the backside of the barrel. Mitutoyo 293-340-30 (~$170 b4 tax & shipping) electric (battery) .00005” (the last digit alternates between 0 and 5). You can inter measurements directly into your computer/spread sheet/word processor (if so inclined) with the proper cable. The former is accurate to +/- one tenth of one thousands of an inch, which is plenty accurate for your work but some people find it tedious to read. The latter is accurate to +/- one half of one tenth of a thousands but reads easily like a caliper. The caliper can give you different measurements depending on how hard you push with your thumb, where the part being measured is in the caliper jaws (deep in the jaws or out at the tips), the amount of play between the “fixed” jaw and the “moveable” jaw sliding rails and the angle between the caliper and the part being measured (best to hold the part in the caliper without touching the part). With use the slider will ware and measurement accuracy will deteriorate, a lot. The slider needs to be adjusted and the caliper calibrated often. IMO the caliper is a feeler gauge, not suitable for the level of accuracy you need when massaging your rear end. The micrometer has a clutch in the barrel that takes the “feel” out of the equation. Place the part to be measured between the anvils and turn the barrel until it contacts the measured part (the barrel will then free spool) then take your measurement. It drives me crazy when I see people trying to adjust the micrometer and then force it onto the part being measured in hopes of achieving the “proper” feel. Using the clutch insures consistency in measurements regardless of who is using it. More info on that is available by searching Gauge R&R (gauge repeatability and reproducibility). Hope this helps.

[@tiagoangelo3828]

Detailed job, as always. Quick question, would you be willing to measure all your tools so they aren't lost to time and could be easily fabricated again?

[@Jafromobile]

It's in the plans! Some I might even make? There are universal tools that do a very ok job at taking most of their places... but there's some you just can't not have. Probably the most difficult sentence to read that I've ever typed, sorry... maybe? lol

[@AdmissionGaming]

How come not buy new genuine gears from mitsubishi? I recently got a new set of 4.875 for a 1980s pajero.

[@Jafromobile]

I can buy everything else but that. Plus I had a good ring and pinion right here for $0. If this one has issues with what I build and put it through, I'll swap it for a 3000GT diff and a different subframe. The arms would still work, but In would have to change the subframe. I believe a 2g rear diff will do pretty well with all the extra case reinforcement the Volk subframe provides. The 2g setup gets bushed mounts and often that's what fails causing their problems after you more than double the torque. Good question, because I put a lot of time and thought into that before doing all of this.

[@AdmissionGaming]

@Jafromobile makes sense. I wish I could pickup a cheap hyundai/mitsubishi with similar running gear here in Australia. Anything 4g with turbo related is big dollars like 20k us +

[@two-eyedRoy]

*baacklaaash* Seamless Jaffro 🤣

[@heinzkot360]

Bcnlash is usually set via the flanch nut on the pinion gearshaft… I was wondering what you are going through for the backlash being in spec again.

[@93jdmmike]

Very nice video

[@victorrumph]

Ooh been waiting

[@carpetbomberz]

50:48 Don't tell me to no do anything, I will.

[@Milkmans_Son]

Don't do things people tell you not to do.

[@wawaron1407]

Alot to learn fro me in there... Cheez mate

[@jordansmobiledetailing5097]

I have so much to do on my GSX 😢

[@wasted_k]

This question might be slightly unrelated to the video topic, but here's the thing. I have a 1989 Summit LX with Colt GT rear brakes and pretty much stock suspension in the front with the exception of Elantra LCA's and Colt GT sway bar. And i want to make the conversion to 5x114 instead of 4x114 to get rid of the CAPTIVE ROTOR setup in the front, and fit cooler wheels. I think that for the rear i only need 1G DSM hubs and rotors and that's it, right? But i dont know exactly what i need in the front, so i thought i might ask you, since you are like the god of DSM/CSM cars. Thank you in advance.

[@Jafromobile]

I am using front knuckles off of an Expo LRV, and wallowing out the strut holes to correct the camber problems that result from it. The Elantra LCA's are a good thing because the ball joints bolt onto the ARM, and offer a tad of camber wiggle room, but to use that knuckle, it uses DSM axles which are different seals and splines versus the captive rotor config. I don't know what your wheelbase is, but on an Elantra, I had to take 5/8" off one of the axle shafts and I'm sorry I don't know which? It involves re-splining and re-grooving the axle shaft. This is an issue I still have yet to solve on my Colt, but there's a video called "Colt Knuckles" where I cover the setup.

[@wasted_k]

Thanks man, i really appreciate the information, in fact i just re-watched the video (i watched like 4 years ago but my mechanic skills were null at the time lol). Since i'm keeping it FWD i guess my bet in the rear is correct, right? Just 1G DSM hubs and rotors (?). Can one just use the DSM axles with all of the parts mentioned in your comment? Or it's just impossible due to splines or lenght problems? My car's running Stock 4G15 8 valve paired with what i believe is a 5 speed manual transmission from an Elantra (It says A10CKQL and GA4011). Wheelbase is unknown to me.

[@wraithgard]

All that for a stock VLSD? Aren't they only slightly better than open until the fluid inside is sheared (sometimes 50k-75k miles) This would have been a great opportunity to put a real locking diff in there.

[@Jafromobile]

Yes, it could have been. But the car that I got this diff from runs low 9's AWD with an open diff. Just an automatic one now. A barely working LSD is fine for an AWD car, but would definitely cause problems with a RWD car. If anything caused the wear in my BFH LSD it's most likely running that thick heavyweight shockproof that I'm not supposed to use with a VLSD. If I should have to upgrade the diff, it will be with one from a completely different model of car. Ford 8.8 or 3000GT. Something much heavier than my car.

[@jamest.5001]

We always moved shims it's likely the bearings are wearing not the gears.

[@TelfLad]

buddy i need some advice, I have a suzuki jimny, part time 4x4 no centre diff, I wanna be able to put it in 4x4 on intermittent good traction without worrying about twisting my shafts. Is putting a vc in front prop a thing? or am I special?

[@Jafromobile]

Look at what the AWD Honda guys are doing. Honda uses a viscous coupling in the driveshaft and you can control the rear wheel bias by changing VC fluid. I think that's going to achieve what you're describing. The VC in the DSM stuff is inside the transmission case, so the Mitsubishi stuff won't help you.

[@slfrules1]

I broke a finger knocking in shims one time. Got roped into rebuilding a diff with none of the service tools. aint messing with another one without every tool listed in the esm

[@Jafromobile]

I've been searching for years... and if I can't find them with my budget, and my army of marmots, then you can definitely sleep easy knowing it's pretty safe to say you won't be doing this again.

[@user-oz5yk9bm5c]

how dare you blue ball me at the end with that box!

[@Jafromobile]

lol! I told you where the update was going! Patreon knows what's in that box! :P

[@tomasbeblar5639]

Here's me thinking "Oh I need to do this" but after watching a DSM GOD struggle with this, I'm like NOPE! Where can I send my diff to get this done instead? 😅 PS: My drive train is making gear messing noises under engine braking that go away under accelerator. Is that my diff, carrier bearing or other? How do I narrow it down?

[@Jafromobile]

That actually sounds like the ring and pinion to me. At least if you don't have a 1 piece or 2 piece driveshaft that is the most likely cause of those symptoms.

[@mrworm1]

YAY! It's JAFRO DAY!!!

[@RampantSGV]

👍

[@kirkbroomes7524]

Jafro I love your videos but take too long for new ones

[@Jafromobile]

I know! It's hard for both of us! I still love you, bro.

[@CSMtv1320]

I can smell this video….. 😂

[@jeffreymoore4132]

My only mistress is sweet Lady Propane.

[@Milkmans_Son]

Is it my good OCD that wants to use a pair of turnbuckle case spreaders instead of just the one, or is it my time-wasting, rabbit-hole descending, tangent-taking, what the hell did I do all day OCD trying rear it's ugly head. If history is any indication, odds are right about 50/50.

[@Jafromobile]

You absolutely could, and it would mean less preload on each hole to do the same thing... but .004" is the thickness of spiral-bound notebook paper. The carrier housing can take it. You could also choose to do this across diagonal holes if your bolts are long enough (mine were). I think I got my wish, though... people are talking about turnbuckles now! lol!

[@benjaminnugent3821]

A power drunk cop needs to be fired and stripped of qualified immunity and sued for defamation of character .