One year old compressor failed, time to troubleshoot

I have to figure out why this compressor failed
Allied Refrigeration
440-823-5720
Cleveland, Ohio

[@marvingarcia8982]

Jim thanks for the video. You take your time to explain how things work and why you do them. The HVAC community in KZbin is learning. Thanks again

[@dcrickerson9775]

Nice job Jim, you are very thorough. Very interesting video to watch. Thanks for bringing us along on such a nasty day.

[@JamesPettinato]

+DC Rickerson thanks

[@philliprickman1394]

Jim, I enjoy you videos. Thanks for posting them. I tried a trick you suggested on an old Manitowoc ice machine recently and so far it seems to be helping. As far as the multiple compressor failures, I have had the same issues in the past. I always add a delay-on-make timer to the contactor. I have found that sometimes the pressure switches will cause short cycling of the compressor. It's a cheap add-on that seems to help prevent frequent compressor failures.

[@NorCal-refrigeration]

I remember years a Sporlan rep mentioning to me to add mineral oil to POE systems because they were having problems with various valves sticking and not lubricating. Great tip on the bubbles.

[@seanmc133able]

Kids bubble soap. That's genius!

[@MrJujubean]

nice job Jim, we are getting the same crappy weather in in Cincinnati ,I love all your vids. I have been out of the HVAC trade for over 15 years due to health reasons, watching you work on the walk in coolers and ice machines makes me miss being in the field. Keep up the good video work!

[@Gears.and.Gadgets]

Nice work. You definitely covered all areas fully. Nice idea about the leak detector and children's soap bubbles.

[@JamesPettinato]

+George W it works great, with regular leak soap you get small bubbles, this soap produced balloon bubbles, thanks

[@hvacrjunky6119]

+Jim Pettinato next you just need to patent and sell them. Jim's Suds!

[@JamesPettinato]

+HVAC/R Junky that's funny, I usually drink budwiser suds, thanks

[@derekmc9580]

Really enjoy ur videos Jim. It cool to see u guys that have been around this stuff for decades sharing ur knowledge and explaining how some of the older systems work. I just do residential work but am really wanting to get into commercial work. Ur videos will deffinalty give me a head start when I make the change. Thanks

[@skip2legen1]

8i89

[@randykocian4738]

Thanks for bringing us along on this one. Been thinking about portable tent to side step rain. A tough one.

[@Brad1237202]

Nice job Jim! Hopefully you will get 10+ years from that new compressor!

[@jonmoratelli7326]

Another awesome video Jim. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@JamesPettinato]

+Jonathan Moratelli thanks

[@ritewayguy]

Oil sight glasses and fill plugs on the compressors would make things a lot easier and help the tech to greatly extend compressor life for their customers. Not being on the compressors makes it cheaper to manufacturer, and kind of guarantees sales of new compressors, huh? A really interesting and informative video Mr. Pettinato.

[@JamesPettinato]

+ritewayguy hopefully copeland failed compressors in warranty will make them realize they would get less warranty returns, it would be cheaper having oil sight glasses, thanks

[@kaloiankrastev6851]

Hey Jim you did amazing job, lets hope all of this security devices will secure the compressor and will keep it alive another 20 years :))))

[@thomaswerts2418]

great job. cold weather refrigeration can be tricky. I found it common in Michigan but not so much down here in Louisiana

[@JamesPettinato]

+Thomas Werts what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, thanks

[@barryhunt5357]

Great repair as always , I enjoy your videos Jim ......

[@rich1953]

As Steve Lav would say NEXT LEVEL! Nice job Jim.

[@RobHVAC]

Nice repair and video Jim. Enjoyed it.

[@JamesPettinato]

+Rob HVAC thanks

[@arniegrote319]

Nice Job, I think you got it, Great tip on the bubbles.

[@OcRefrig]

good video jim. Suction accumulator allways a great idea. fan cycling a great idea. i don't like the idea of the freeze stat. i think that may give u problems.. short cycling etc. awful close to suction line temp. at 35 degree box. 20 degree evap + superheat= cut out of that freeze stat. i wouldn't use it.imo. Hey jim , How about short cycling of the compressor when the system satisfies. you could have a liquid line solenoid valve leaking by in the off cycle. check unit when temperature control satisfies. make sure unit is not banging it self to death in off cycle. I'm thinking Liquid slugging in the winter is what took out the compressor. The suction accumulator should fix u right up. make sure that crankcase heater is working good? good luck, Great Job jim. , nasty weather.

[@JamesPettinato]

+OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. thank you for the input, I was having second thoughts about the freeze stat, it cuts out at 35 F what happens when the ambient weather is below that, I'll probably make that adjustment. Good thought on the liquid solonoid leaking, I'm going back in a couple days to replace the drier and check the txvs. thanks

[@OcRefrig]

+Jim Pettinato Agree, definately remove that pipe klixon . in your climate it would hold off the unit when it gets freezing temps out. not good. i recommend replacing the liquid line solenoid valve & that nasty looking Sight Glass( that litmus dot is Black-not good) at the same time u are right there replacing the Drier. Also do a acid test on that refrigerant 1 week out. Just to be sure. covering all bases u know. ( you got to be sure on this one) i don't like that black dot on the sight glass tells me that system has been overheated & abused. it's really too bad that system is not a Semi-hermetic that u can do oil changes on. i Really Feel if u Loose another compressor on that system you're gonna need to go Semi-Hermetic and Put on a Suction Drier too. I Probably Would have put a Suction Drier on that Compressor change out too. Just to Cover my ass on any shit coming Back From the Two Evaps. Suction Driers also are Nice Because they help Stop Liquid From Hitting the Compressor Directly. i know u know all this stuff. just bouncing stuff off u . brain storming with u. I Know u hate suction driers, i do too, but, they have their place sometimes, like on this one, i know they rust out in 5 years, but, at least u are guaranteed 5 years and thats better than doing another compressor next year again. Maybe Put in a Fresh Contactor---that way u can check for excessive wear / short cycling. 3 months out if the contacts are all burnt up you've got your answer. short cycling. Put in a New Digital Temperature Control---old Temperature control may be satisfing and then control calls immediately after again, Faulty Temperature control---short cycling. Just throwing some stuff out there at u --- brain storming. Good luck, jim.

[@JamesPettinato]

Oc it's not practical to go around changing everything, I think the main prob was the POE oil hanging up in the receiver on top of the liquid refrigerant. But thanks for your help

[@apprenticephil649]

What about a winter charge? Is it possible the unit needs more refrigerant to keep the pressures up in low ambient (even with a headmaster)?

[@charlieson3394]

Great video Jim, made me thought of a lot from past service experiences. I think the real root problem of the compressor failure seized up was from low charge running from that low pressure switch bubble showed. These least expensive hermetic compressor won't last long against abnormal conditions. Let me give tips on some concerns that a lot of technicians don't consider seriously. This applies to cold region only. #1 Low ambient control: Condenser flooding system by head pressure control is much more efficient than fan cycling and this unit has it with more cost from factory with bigger coil and receiver tank. Only problem I had with most factory engineers is that those engineers kept ORI/ORD/ORO/LAC 170~180psi head master valves when they were so used to with R22 & R502 system for long years, It is little too low to keep the minimum condensing temperature for R404A, R407A and new lower GWP refrigerant R448A & R449A all needs 210~220 psi head master to keep the minimum condensing temperature of 90F or bottom line 85F. This is from all refrigeration mfg engineers that I discussed to, 180psi designed for R22 & R502 will be ok for R404A if it operates on mild region but they agreed it need 210psi+ for cold region in USA. They mis judged until early 2010s when new unit R22 was phased out and all R404A started to dominate for new units, and now most factories started to put in 210~220 psi head master valves. #2 Oil return concerns and receiver tank: If the oil return problem is concerned regarding the sitting oil in receiver tank at low ambient situations. Simply add insulation blanket on the receiver tank or add a band heater with klixon t-stat and even need to add pipe insulation on liquid line that is exposed on outside. #3 Another Tip for cold region; Add a P trap or loop on hot gas discharge line and extra suction p trap. Adjust he pump down setting closer to 0 psi to minimize refrigerant left over in evap coil and suction line. Adjust setting or replace with digital thermostat so the differential temperature can be set to 1F~2F of target temp instead 5F~6F on vapor tension tstat type; give compressor cycle little more often instead long run and long off. Of course this is based on system super heat correctly adjusted and defrost timer for incidental freeze back up. Solenoid valve or compressor valve not leaking. Thank you reading.

[@BenTh17]

We have a lot of those condensers. We had so many of the CS33 compressors fail that we are now replacing them with scroll compressors. The headmasters also fail fairly often. Hopefully adding the accumulator will help you there.

[@chandarasena]

Thank you Jim, for clear explanation. I have learned something new from such a great video.

[@stevengilber1153]

Great Video Jim, I'm always learning from you.

[@JamesPettinato]

+Steven Gilber thanks

[@randymack1782]

great point of wet grass grounding and getting a shock, a friend of my dad, was killed when I was a kid, maybe 40 years ago, he was buffing his car in the yard after a rain, standing in wet grass, his buffer was one of the old metal drills with buffer attachment, the drill shorted internally, & he had a 2 wire extension cord, yep, he was the least resistance to ground, & died over something so simple. just found your channel, all videos are 3+ years old, did you quit making them? you really did a great job explaining & I m just learning

[@אלישבעזוסמן]

I enjoy your videos thanks for sharing and bringing us along

[@justinjohnson2877]

Maybe consider fitting a small oil Sep on the discharge line if you're still having issues Jim.

[@JamesPettinato]

good idea, thanks

[@sjefoekel6058]

looks like flood back to me! Great vid thanks for sharing.

[@philipdumond2044]

Thanks for the video Jim, always educational.

[@JamesPettinato]

+Philip Dumond thanks

[@ccthepope]

Nice work and thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.

[@whitesheatingairappliancer7101]

nice work Jim, thanks for the video.

[@harrydickson4575]

Excellent work Jim great video

[@JamesPettinato]

+Harry Dickson thanks

[@benp8366]

Isn't that freeze stat going to hold off the compressor from running during the winter?

[@OcRefrig]

very cool idea with mixing the blowing bubbles bottle stuff & leak bubbles.. i'm gonna do that. very cool idea. like #94

[@popsmccartney435]

I love the bubble ideal. Thank you for sharing.

[@JamesPettinato]

+Pops McCartney it worked better than I expected, I got the bubbles at Target, I didn't use the bathroom, thanks

[@ccthepope]

+Jim Pettinato funny!

[@stevep9992]

Great job, thanks for the video Jim!

[@JamesPettinato]

+Steve P thanks

[@jimbola77]

thank you again jim for another excellent video alway's looking forward!!!!

[@TheTraveler66]

Awesome Jim,thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!

[@gonzgarr1592]

another great job with lots of info thank you

[@tjyagalla5652]

could u measure the amount of oil in the failed compressor to see if it was running low on oil?

[@cliftonnichols6170]

a very interesting job, as usual great work

[@skkippboo]

I was just thinking about that freeze stat...I bet the staff or somebody in the store turns off the fans when they re-stock. If that's the case, might be a good idea to possibly wire in some solenoid valves at the evaporators that will close when the fans get turned off. The other option I would do would be to wire the freeze stat in series with the thermostat and defrost timer to de-energize the solenoid valve outside instead of the compressor contactor. Staff turns fans off, refrigeration still in operation, suction line starts to freeze, solenoid valve closes until the line gets back up to 50. If you only stop the compressor with the freeze stat, the solenoid stays open and continues to feed refrigerant to the evaporators, when the compressor restarts, it'll really flood back bad.

[@WTFChuk]

skkippboo my concern with the freeze stat is it opens at 35 degrees. this could be borderline during the winter. it's likely Jim could get calls for false trips.

[@giosource08]

Just like you said, I would rewire the tstat to turn off with the fans, make sure my low pressure control pumps down the compressor accordingly and set a good 9F to 10F superheat at the evaporator(if its a cooler) If that compressor did not last that long I wonder if they did check anything at the evaporator, just wondering...I would not worry about the freeze stat, not the solution from my point of view, yes on the fan cycling control... just some ideas to share

[@tomoliver8498]

Freeze stat needs to go away. I have had several of those low pressure controls go bad and rapidly short cycle the compressor on pump down. I am rethinking the need for complete pump down and have started wiring the solonoid valve in parallel with the contactor on some systems I install to help save the compressors.

[@mike.g.85]

Problems with the Copeland CS33 compressor are never ending...have replaced many on Heatcraft with beacon 2 controls...it is not to the point where we are converting the CS33 recip compressors to ZS33 scroll compressors....so far so good with the scrolls...good luck

[@mike.g.85]

Got not Not

[@JamesPettinato]

+Michael Greco oh, copeland having problems with this line ?, thanks for the input

[@KH-kv2yq]

Jim nearly 2 years later, how has this unit held up since changing this compressor?

[@wdennis8]

I’m new to refrigeration. On a 3 phase contractor with a 208 coil, how would I wire in a freezestat? I thought they are only used on a 24v coil

[@adudley100]

check super heat is set correctly, main problem for hermetic compressors failing as the vapour temperature returning is to high and doesn't cool the motor windings. would look at putting in an EPR valve also ? definitely good idea to have a suction accumulator though, always a good protection device

[@joeperez4651]

He didn't have open windings , it failed mechanically.

[@WTFChuk]

nice job Jim! it's unfortunate that you have to add protection devices that should have been standard equipment on that condensing unit. if I recall correctly the customer purchased that condensing unit himself. how much has his attempt to save money costed him?

[@HAGICASA]

did energize the liquid line solenoid while u doing vacuum ...i am new to the field tkxs

[@chadmonteith9435]

would a 3 phase monitor being installed help with future potential burnouts.

[@Pabsolo86]

Will a filter dryer (been in there for a bit) make vac'in a system slow cause it's full of moisture. Or do the balls hold the moisture? Thanks for the video.

[@OcRefrig]

+Paul Grech yep. full of refrigerant & moisture.

[@jmrhvac4542]

nice job Jim a lot of info

[@hvac01453]

This unit looks familiar. That hot gas bypass should maintain its rating written on it (i.e.) 180=180PSI on the high side. Not sure if you have the right one or not. Check it. Also it looks like the CCH is toast. Thats why you slugged. Also, maybe those TXVs you adjusted a long time ago didn't have enough superheat? To sweeten the oil, use an HH drier like a C304HH Sporlan. I would have come straight off the wall and into the accumulator to prevent oil trapping. Take a closer look at the piping pitch on that suction line. I've never heard of mixing oils of any kind with POE, I'd get it on an email if I were you.

[@jessyjessy7669]

thanks for showing us the new generation. i have learn i lot from you.great videos

[@technician9722]

Really appreciate your videos.

[@JDT738126]

Hey did you warranty those replacement compressors?

[@rodgraff1782]

Number one cause of compressor failure is flooded starts from lack of refrigerant control (keeping liquid refrigerant out of the compressor). Make sure that you have a working crankcase heater. Install a phase monitor so it won’t run if there is a brown out or single phase condition. Install a solenoid drop if the unit doesn’t have a hard shutoff TXV. Frost dose t mean liquid. It means the line is below freezing (could still have superheat). What returns oil to the compressor is having enough velocity in the suction line, and traps as recommended by the manufacturer. I don’t agree with adding mineral oil. I had many units with POE oil and never had a problem. Your problem may be is a design or installation problem. That flooded condenser head pressure control doesn’t flood the evaporator, it floods the condenser. They work much better than fan cycling. Flooded condenser head pressure systems are needed in very cold climates, as the condenser just sitting there with no fan will not be enough to maintain head pressure. The flooded type effectively reduces the size of the condenser, and it will work no matter how cold it gets.

[@TonyRodriguez-ok2ix]

mineral oil would stick to chlorine poe oil floats threw the system.sum times the oil can float and get stuck on top of the refrigerant in the reciever according to emerson. the cure was adding a bit of mineral oil so it could help push the poe oil.

[@jimford01]

what soap did you use for leak testing

[@benkuxhouse787]

check superheat, that's what takes out compressors,liquid slugging. If it's a cooler, that's what it looks like, should be 8- 10F.Having an accumulator helps, but might not help enough if SH is way to low. Any oil return problems always check SH.

[@roughas100]

Maybe check the superheat again the next day after the cabinet is down to temp , lower load on the evaporator will probably make it easier to find out if low superheat is the problem.

[@dennisnoone7427]

gotta try the bubbles next time, will any soap do? could you check how much oil the failed comp had (just to confirm the oil in the receiver theory) hopefully the add-ons will solve the issue, can you do a follow up video when changing the dryer, thanks.

[@JamesPettinato]

+Dennis Noone it was childrens blowing bubbles I bought at Target. Measuring the oil is a good idea, thanks

[@Losangeles1980]

good job Mr Jim

[@JamesPettinato]

+bladimir becelinoff thanks

[@rajashamas]

Happy to see there bimetal for suction ice contor good idea

[@theoldbigmoose]

Actually a bad idea where the ambient temperature can get to and below 0 degF in the winter on the shores of Lake Erie. This phenomena would cause a lock out until spring thaw. :-) Note that Jim removed it. ... btw Jim, sure miss you and these videos! God bless you in retirement.

[@oliverbranson5565]

Great video! You have all the cool toys! Did you just pull a vacuum on the low side? Didn't see high side connected.

[@hdanyow]

+Oliver Branson it was connected to the reciever as well.

[@oliverbranson5565]

+hdanyow thanks didn't see that

[@justinb8636]

love watching video with pro's that learned from years of exp then text book bullshit, THANK YOU

[@ulyssestrejo]

great work on a sucky day Jim!!

[@JamesPettinato]

+A&J Heating rain, sun, sleet, snow the beer cooler must be cold, thanks

[@thegreatjellydoughnu]

Nice work Jim, I like that you worked out a complete solution to that unit eating compressors. I am going to try that bubble idea a try and see how it works for me. I had two questions one why did you put the freeze stat after the accumulator and not before it wouldn't that system be a huge block of ice if it ever made it that close to the compressor with an accumulator? My other question is why did you use recovered 404a instead of virgin refrigerant as extra insurance agents system contamination? Thanks Jim love the videos ~Bob

[@JamesPettinato]

+The Great Jelly Doughnut the refrigerant is fairly new, I didn't feel that it had any contaminants, the freeze stat has to ultiminately protect the compressor , final line of defence. I understand what you're saying but this should work, thanks

[@thegreatjellydoughnu]

+Jim Pettinato that's what I figured on the refrigerant, that is a good point on it being the last line of defense to the compressor. Thanks for the response. When you change the filter you should do a follow up video and cut open the filter see if it caught anything of interest. Thanks again

[@denniscat9395]

Are you making this up as you go along?

[@user-ti7ud6ms3u]

just a quick question, did you check the caps and if there was any loose wires, ive had a problem where some semi loose terminals that seemed fine on the comp or start components didnt want to start comp.

[@JamesPettinato]

+Paul Brandt yes, I did snug them up, thanks

[@muddasir31]

So what is the diagnosis?

[@michaellowe3584]

Statistically air compressor that has replaced a failed compressor will fail again, unless you figure out the problem of the first compressor failing, and the best way to do that is to cut the compressor open to determine which of the most typical five reasons compressors fail was the problem in the first place. New or used compressors last longer if the whole unit is new as well.

[@fathmasameer7523]

Why there is ice up at the compressore and accumalator during recovery?

[@theoldbigmoose]

Liquid refrigerant boiling, perhaps some was trapped in retained oil

[@soloryderrr]

Jim you are the man!

[@twopups]

Would a crankcase heater help prevent slugging?

[@frmerrin2]

It does have one on it.

[@charlieson3394]

Great video Jim, made me thought of a lot from past service experiences. I think the real root problem of the compressor failure seized up was from low charge running from that low pressure switch bubble showed. These least expensive hermetic compressor won't last long against abnormal conditions. Let me give tips on some concerns that a lot of technicians don't consider seriously. This applies to cold region only. #1 Low ambient control: Condenser flooding system by head pressure control is much more efficient than fan cycling and this unit has it with more cost from factory with bigger coil and receiver tank. Only problem I had with most factory engineers is that those engineers kept ORI/ORD/ORO/LAC 170~180psi head master valves when they were so used to with R22 & R502 system for long years, It is little too low to keep the minimum condensing temperature for R404A, R407A and new lower GWP refrigerant R448A & R449A all needs 210~220 psi head master to keep the minimum condensing temperature of 90F or bottom line 85F. This is from all refrigeration mfg engineers that I discussed to, 180psi designed for R22 & R502 will be ok for R404A if it operates on mild region but they agreed it need 210psi+ for cold region in USA. They mis judged until early 2010s when new unit R22 was phased out and all R404A started to dominate for new units, and now most factories started to put in 210~220 psi head master valves. #2 Oil return concerns and receiver tank: If the oil return problem is concerned regarding the sitting oil in receiver tank at low ambient situations. Simply add insulation blanket on the receiver tank or add a band heater with klixon t-stat and even need to add pipe insulation on liquid line that is exposed on outside. #3 Another Tip for cold region; Add a P trap or loop on hot gas discharge line and extra suction p trap. Adjust he pump down setting closer to 0 psi to minimize refrigerant left over in evap coil and suction line. Adjust setting or replace with digital thermostat so the differential temperature can be set to 1F~2F of target temp instead 5F~6F on vapor tension tstat type; give compressor cycle little more often instead long run and long off. Of course this is based on system super heat correctly adjusted and defrost timer for incidental freeze back up. Solenoid valve or compressor valve not leaking. Thank you reading.

[@ChrisHVAC]

What happens in the winter? Will the freeze stat lock out the compressor?

[@JamesPettinato]

yes, I've taken it out of the circuit, I found the problem was the condenser fan cycle control was hanging up, that was replaced

[@handyman4uservices]

great video, like always!!!

[@murf35640]

And you piped in the accumulator outside the cabinet? Why?

[@ebonnygrullon1248]

Maybe space.

[@Spizzzy1]

An oil seperator would solve the oil return problem Jim.

[@ShahabUddin-ij6gk]

good man hard worker, i like keep it up.

[@poormanskint3008]

Good video Jim. I'm going to test Emersons theory of POE oil having a sufficiently less gravity making it float on top of the liquid phase of 404 A, and requiring a shot of mineral oil to make it mix and miscible so it flows through the system. I have an old diala charge that I'm going to decant some recovered 404 A in and add a shot of POE and see if it floats about an hour afterwards. I'll post you the result when I've done it.

[@rossy9549]

I like that bubble trick

[@lucdumouchel3864]

That was so good. Thanks

[@dougpazreyes]

thanks for the video... haha. and for the bubbles idea

[@JamesPettinato]

+douglas paz-reyes works good, thanks

[@meerscan9101]

does that unit have a headmaster?

[@JamesPettinato]

+refrigeration tech it has a Sporlan OROA valve, but the condenser fan stays on and moves too much cold air causing too much liquid refrigerant and oil to back up into the condenser, it would have been nice if this condenser had 2 fans, I would cycle one of them. thanks

[@josephzoumadakis9743]

different style reciever and traps on liquid line poke hole i reciever bet u find oil can tell during recovery boiling refrigerant botto of reciever will look like compressor when it frosts up during recovery

[@allsystems79]

You need p- trap for the oil. The compressor will go bad, it will be Slugged.

[@eagletek1]

Would a oil separator work on that application? Great video

[@giosource08]

Eagle Mechanical Refrigeration/Hvac Durham N.C . Oil separators are good for parallel racks, unless there was a bad design on the lines for oil return, I would rewire the tstat to shut off with fans, check superheat, install a dual pressure control and check pump down ops, for starters... the fan cycling control is a good call

[@jmgrefrigeration4000]

That oil theory doesn’t make sense because 404a is only miscible with POE Oil. If you have residual mineral in the system it can cause the oil to separate. A good amount of the blends require Poe you can’t use alky or mineral because they won’t mix. So why would you add oil that isn’t miscible with the gas your using. All new comp come with Poe because of the HFC gases we are using, if they were better off with other oils compressors would come with it. Chlorine is in the old CFC,hcfc gases not the oil’s.

[@charlieson3394]

Great video Jim, made me thought of a lot from past service experiences. I think the real root problem of the compressor failure seized up was from low charge running from that low pressure switch bubble showed. These least expensive hermetic compressor won't last long against abnormal conditions. Let me give tips on some concerns that a lot of technicians don't consider seriously. This applies to cold region only. #1 Low ambient control: Condenser flooding system by head pressure control is much more efficient than fan cycling and this unit has it with more cost from factory with bigger coil and receiver tank. Only problem I had with most factory engineers is that those engineers kept ORI/ORD/ORO/LAC 170~180psi head master valves when they were so used to with R22 & R502 system for long years, It is little too low to keep the minimum condensing temperature for R404A, R407A and new lower GWP refrigerant R448A & R449A all needs 210~220 psi head master to keep the minimum condensing temperature of 90F or bottom line 85F. This is from all refrigeration mfg engineers that I discussed to, 180psi designed for R22 & R502 will be ok for R404A if it operates on mild region but they agreed it need 210psi+ for cold region in USA. They mis judged until early 2010s when new unit R22 was phased out and all R404A started to dominate for new units, and now most factories started to put in 210~220 psi head master valves. #2 Oil return concerns and receiver tank: If the oil return problem is concerned regarding the sitting oil in receiver tank at low ambient situations. Simply add insulation blanket on the receiver tank or add a band heater with klixon t-stat and even need to add pipe insulation on liquid line that is exposed on outside. #3 Another Tip for cold region; Add a P trap or loop on hot gas discharge line and extra suction p trap. Adjust he pump down setting closer to 0 psi to minimize refrigerant left over in evap coil and suction line. Adjust setting or replace with digital thermostat so the differential temperature can be set to 1F~2F of target temp instead 5F~6F on vapor tension tstat type; give compressor cycle little more often instead long run and long off. Of course this is based on system super heat correctly adjusted and defrost timer for incidental freeze back up. Solenoid valve or compressor valve not leaking. Thank you reading.

[@josephzoumadakis9743]

think oil trapped in that tall reciever siezed up both compressors wouldtrap liquid line

[@charlieson3394]

Great video Jim, made me thought of a lot from past service experiences. I think the real root problem of the compressor failure seized up was from low charge running from that low pressure switch bubble showed. These least expensive hermetic compressor won't last long against abnormal conditions. Let me give tips on some concerns that a lot of technicians don't consider seriously. This applies to cold region only. #1 Low ambient control: Condenser flooding system by head pressure control is much more efficient than fan cycling and this unit has it with more cost from factory with bigger coil and receiver tank. Only problem I had with most factory engineers is that those engineers kept ORI/ORD/ORO/LAC 170~180psi head master valves when they were so used to with R22 & R502 system for long years, It is little too low to keep the minimum condensing temperature for R404A, R407A and new lower GWP refrigerant R448A & R449A all needs 210~220 psi head master to keep the minimum condensing temperature of 90F or bottom line 85F. This is from all refrigeration mfg engineers that I discussed to, 180psi designed for R22 & R502 will be ok for R404A if it operates on mild region but they agreed it need 210psi+ for cold region in USA. They mis judged until early 2010s when new unit R22 was phased out and all R404A started to dominate for new units, and now most factories started to put in 210~220 psi head master valves. #2 Oil return concerns and receiver tank: If the oil return problem is concerned regarding the sitting oil in receiver tank at low ambient situations. Simply add insulation blanket on the receiver tank or add a band heater with klixon t-stat and even need to add pipe insulation on liquid line that is exposed on outside. #3 Another Tip for cold region; Add a P trap or loop on hot gas discharge line and extra suction p trap. Adjust he pump down setting closer to 0 psi to minimize refrigerant left over in evap coil and suction line. Adjust setting or replace with digital thermostat so the differential temperature can be set to 1F~2F of target temp instead 5F~6F on vapor tension tstat type; give compressor cycle little more often instead long run and long off. Of course this is based on system super heat correctly adjusted and defrost timer for incidental freeze back up. Solenoid valve or compressor valve not leaking. Thank you reading.

[@cherrycreekrefigration]

you should remove the Headmaster the Headmaster might be causing your problem I had the same scenario. also you should get rid of those cheap pressure control switches.

[@charlieson3394]

Great video Jim, made me thought of a lot from past service experiences. I think the real root problem of the compressor failure seized up was from low charge running from that low pressure switch bubble showed. These least expensive hermetic compressor won't last long against abnormal conditions. Let me give tips on some concerns that a lot of technicians don't consider seriously. This applies to cold region only. #1 Low ambient control: Condenser flooding system by head pressure control is much more efficient than fan cycling and this unit has it with more cost from factory with bigger coil and receiver tank. Only problem I had with most factory engineers is that those engineers kept ORI/ORD/ORO/LAC 170~180psi head master valves when they were so used to with R22 & R502 system for long years, It is little too low to keep the minimum condensing temperature for R404A, R407A and new lower GWP refrigerant R448A & R449A all needs 210~220 psi head master to keep the minimum condensing temperature of 90F or bottom line 85F. This is from all refrigeration mfg engineers that I discussed to, 180psi designed for R22 & R502 will be ok for R404A if it operates on mild region but they agreed it need 210psi+ for cold region in USA. They mis judged until early 2010s when new unit R22 was phased out and all R404A started to dominate for new units, and now most factories started to put in 210~220 psi head master valves. #2 Oil return concerns and receiver tank: If the oil return problem is concerned regarding the sitting oil in receiver tank at low ambient situations. Simply add insulation blanket on the receiver tank or add a band heater with klixon t-stat and even need to add pipe insulation on liquid line that is exposed on outside. #3 Another Tip for cold region; Add a P trap or loop on hot gas discharge line and extra suction p trap. Adjust he pump down setting closer to 0 psi to minimize refrigerant left over in evap coil and suction line. Adjust setting or replace with digital thermostat so the differential temperature can be set to 1F~2F of target temp instead 5F~6F on vapor tension tstat type; give compressor cycle little more often instead long run and long off. Of course this is based on system super heat correctly adjusted and defrost timer for incidental freeze back up. Solenoid valve or compressor valve not leaking. Thank you reading.

[@winkhvac62]

thanks for sharing this...

[@johnnysaltyaircrabcake8030]

bring power to the Crank case heater...get that refrigerant dancing and pull the BA JESUS out of the gas... just sayn that's what id do

[@davejohnsonnola2758]

Good things to think about. Wish you were still posting but respect your decision to stop.. Interesting the different solutions with respect to climate...hard to imagine in early September while it is still 90+ degree nighttime ambient... we don't have to worry so much about cold ambients here in the deep south, but need to keep it in mind for the few days that it will affect operation.

[@Billy-rr7re]

probably they just want you to replace the compressor, not the oil.

[@Impedancenetwork]

I hate when I hear people say, "it blew the circuit breaker." A circuit breaker doesn't "blow", a fuse blows; a circuit breaker "trips."

[@kabaddlarabass4424]

hol ferrrr gooooooooooood

[@ArisBuliteanu]

23:23

[@ebonnygrullon1248]

Please don't say drier filter anymore 🙄. Otherwise good video. Thanks lol

[@FEDERALSIGNALTECH]

Get a scroll compressor.

[@IshockO]

Didn't understand too much

[@romtopinstal7870]

Good job Jim

[@JamesPettinato]

+RomTop Instal thanks