The Hidden Chainsaw Killer : Chain Stretch. Correct Way To Adjust The Chain Tension On Your Chainsaw

[@ShireServicesFr]

I am embarrassed to admit, as mechanically minded as I am, totally overlooked this. Appreciate the vid! 👍🏼

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it was helpful! Stay safe!

[@wlan246]

Same. As soon as he said, "and you then stop," I had the same realization. Good advice!

[@doncook3584]

72 years old I confess always did it wrong. Many thanks

[@reiniernn9071]

Also for me....but I did not overlook the cooling of the chasin....I assumed that the blade also was heated enough so both would have to shrink within a little margin tha same. It seems I was wromg.

[@ianjamison5460]

Ha, adding myself to this list, have done exactly this a few times.

[@michaelkenealy4600]

been around chainsaws my entire life and this is one of those tips that lets you know your never too old to learn. Thanks for posting

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help ☺

[@garsyca]

Excellent advise! Something so logic in physics and we don't pay attention. Thank you for share this warning. 🤗👍

[@jamieteal2107]

@@JamesTheForesterabsolutely so glad l came across this 👍🇦🇺

[@JamesTheForester]

Thank you 😊

[@chucklutter7399]

Been cutting over 45 years and never knew this. Probably has A LOT to do with my bars not lasting as long as I believe they should and excessive wear on the sprocket! I have a relatively new chain on the saw now, will pay close attention. Thank you for posting the information in a clear way!

[@JamesTheForester]

No problem 😊

[@stevebabiak6997]

@@pedtrog6443 - the paint removed around the edge of the bar is probably due to a too loose chain jumping off the bar.

[@chucklutter7399]

@@stevebabiak6997 thanks, I do have a tendency to run the chain loose.

[@shperax]

More bars are destroyed from running a chain loose rather than too tight. A proper working saw is nearly impossible to get the chain too tight. I've worked on thousands of every brand but specifically Stihl. I worked as a Stihl Platinum service tech for 20 years. If your saw is bogging, the last thing you should be worried about is chain tightness. It's most likely other issues. Way too many people run their chain way too loose. It's easy to tell when near the bar tip has an indent.

[@adamb1671]

Would be a lot simpler to have a pretensioned lever to reduce the slack when finished.

[@elrobo3568]

I was a forester for the US forest service and a wild land firefighter. Good tip, another missed item is the bar sprocket lube holes for grease, some bars will have little holes near the end sprocket and they should have grease pushed into them until it squeezes out of the sprocket when you gas the saw and check tension. Another missed lube point is the drive sprocket under the chain cover, if it has a hole in the middle of the stud put grease there also, not a huge amount just a few pushes of the chain saw grease gun with the tapered tip, this will lube the drive bearing. Side note, if you are doing a lot of work cutting and stop to sharpen flip the bar over to even out the bar wear and clean the chain groove while you do that.

[@iffykidmn8170]

and any grit and such in the hole has the potential to be pushed into the bearing.

[@user-vm2jx9qf5u]

I am a wild land firefighter and forester since 2004. I NEVER grease the end bearings. They get bar oil. Once you grease them, the spinning forms a well which blocks the oil from getting to them. So once you grease, you always have to grease them. Just don’t grease them and you will be fine. 👍

[@jackyhallmark3094]

Best advice I was ever given was to throw away the bar with the end sprocket and get a solid hard nose bar. Don't have any with rollers and probably never will.

[@philliphall5198]

If the bar doesn’t have a lube hole don’t buy it 😊

[@lefthandedleprechaun8702]

Mkst bars nowday dont have the little holes in the end of the bar ... i wish they did

[@mainebigfoothunter7088]

I'm turning 65 soon and used saws well over 40 years. I learned something important. Thank you

[@Bad_CAT_itude3408]

I used to cut professionally in northern Michigan and this is a commonly overlooked procedure by even pro loggers and the like. Fortunately I was taught by a very knowledgeable and experienced man and this very thing was one of the things he stressed daily. With so many people using saws at home or on farms, they may never cut enough at in one go for them to notice this but I can tell you that there were more than a couple pros out there in the woods with us that blew apart their drive bearings and overheated many bars by not knowing this particular process. Thank you for sharing this and taking the time to explain the mechanics behind it for everyone who may not be as versed in the many nuances of running saws.

[@feegureeetout]

Seems like it would be magnified with longer bars. Hence, more concerned with commercial cutters.

[@traviscarr6536]

I use to cut professionally and after awhile I decided I’d start cutting amateurishly. Lot more work cutting as an inexperienced saw operator. I figure one of these days I’ll pick it back up professionally.

[@snakerstran9101]

I do think your right on with this. It's more of a pro saw/ long day cutting than a every saw/ every condition thing. The only saw I ever experienced the chain tension change with temp was on my Stihl MS440. That thing screamed like a demon and was also the only saw I ever had spark a fire with the chain. Decades of running various "home N farm saws and I never had that change of tension issue.

[@googleboy7]

Hi, Excellent information! I was a chainsaw dealer in the seventies. I wouldn't sell a saw unless the buyers 1) were phisically capable of handling the saw (no kids or grand mothers) and 2) they had to take my Saw and Safety course before they got their saws. I didn'' want anyone getting hurt. I used to teach adjusting the chain by losening the chain, holding the bar tip up, tightening the chain until it just kissed the bar and then locking the bar attachment bolts. Lastly, make sure the chain pulls around freely. Always do that last step before starting or cutting. Your explanation of expansion and contraction is spot on. Thanks! Shalom/gw

[@JamesTheForester]

Hey bud. Great advice there 👍 thanks for the comment!

[@earljohnson7675]

Shalom

[@iffykidmn8170]

I take it you only sold chainsaws to those who had never ran a chainsaw before.

[@rustic35]

😂😂

[@joshmckay-gg5qc]

⁠@@Dr.LongMonkeycause they are fucking dangerous. I taught both my kids to use steak knives at 5 years old. Chainsaws will be taught at 15

[@tonyalways7174]

An over-tight chain will make a high pitched whistling sound and that’s a tell-tale sign to listen for. Loosening a hot chain while it cools (meal breaks or at the end of work) is a critical piece of maintenance especially if you’re cutting at low winter temperatures and the cooling can be very rapid.

[@JamesTheForester]

Great advice. Thanks for sharing. 👍🙂

[@davidcarper5411]

It creates too much friction and heat too..

[@jimbos1567]

I;m 80 and have been cutting wood all my life, and didn't even think about this. Thank you sir.

[@hastyone9048]

I’ve watched 100’s of chain saw videos and no one ever explained this. This happened to me and I could not figure out why the saw was bogging down. Tore it apart and changed the carb. Worked fine for a few hours, went back to work and same thing. I finally decided to not use the saw more than a couple hours a day on a project on my property. Now I know. Thank you!

[@ChrisJ144]

Now I know. Have been puzzled by this for years and didn’t understand what should have obvious. Best advice I’ve ever had on chainsaw maintenance. Thanks !

[@russking7671]

This is the best chainsaw information I’ve ever received from maintenance primarily because I just experienced this on the weekend, and couldn’t figure out why the chain was reacting the way it was. I think you just saved my chainsaw. Thank you for this!👍

[@JamesTheForester]

Great to hear!

[@ericwiltz6584]

Another note is spare parts: at least one nut, drive sprocket, needle bearing, plug and air filter, felling wedges. Just great to have on hand. I never leave home without two bars as well.. I've cut professionally for many years and everyone gets a pinch now and then and the easiest way is to cut yourself a relieve cut.

[@JamesTheForester]

Yes. Sprocket cover nuts. My favourite thing to lose!

[@josephwintersieck9292]

Forty=five years of chain saw use and I never figured this out. Thank you, James

[@JamesTheForester]

No problem!

[@D-B-Cooper]

If your chain gets that hot you have other problems, usually lack of oil or clogged channel or oil holes. After sawing for the day I take my saw apart, clean out the channel, clean out the clutch (important) and covers. I sharpen the chain and put it back together for the next day. Wet chain will rust. I keep my spare chains in a pot of oil and stick my bars in it to keep the rollers oiled. If you have your chain too lose then the slack is taken up by it riding up the chain sprocket and you wear out the ends.

[@JamesTheForester]

All great advice! Thanks for the comment 👍

[@timothymusson5040]

I’ve can’t tell you how many chainsaw videos I’ve watched, and nobody has mentioned this. Thanks for the tip!

[@edithfreeman4367]

Fancy that,a precise,informative,on subject video,now it all makes sense!@76yrs.l can take it on board and ,maybe,save a few dollars! Thanks mate,Tasmania.

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it was helpful!

[@brucem7390]

I’ve always made a point of doing this each and every time I’ve finished using the saw and am surprised to see this very important tip on a video for the first time. I’m sure you have just highlighted this for many who were unaware of its importance. Well done sir!

[@mikecraig9007]

Words of wisdom from somebody who really knows this topic. I'm glad I found your video.

[@JamesTheForester]

Thank you!

[@Matahaka2024]

It is a good tip for sure. The only downside to leaving the chain loose at end of session is a potential injury if someone else were to use chainsaw without knowing chain and bar is loose. Fully removing chain off bar and just let it hang would probably (you would hope) deter someone from just starting it up without checking. Happy chainsawing!

[@JamesTheForester]

That's a really good safety tip if you are likely to have inexperienced people using your kit without permission. It happens!

[@JM-jd7yp]

Real wisdom. Like many I didn't know this and yet it makes perfect common sense. Thank you for taking the time to post this. I am sure it will be of benefit to many people. I wish you well.

[@JamesTheForester]

That is fantastic feedback. Thank you 😊

[@michaelguerin56]

Good video. I was a Territorial Force (TF) Royal New Zealand Engineer from 1984-96. We were taught to tighten chainsaw chains as necessary and to ease them off when we stopped for a break, at SME, Linton Military Camp, in October 1984. I am still surprised, at times, when I encounter chainsaw users who either were not trained to do this OR who were too damned idle to read the owner’s manual. It does not matter whether you have a modern single-screw chain cover or the older style two-screw cover. Taking the time to release chain tension also means that you look over the entire saw. I once noticed that a machine screw (when the thread goes all the way to the head, it is a machine screw instead of a bolt) had come away from the starter cord housing on my XP540 and another screw was about to fall out, when l went to let off the chain tension.

[@JamesTheForester]

Great stuff. Thanks for the comment 👍 😀

[@chucklutter7399]

Great comment, lost one of my bucking teeth because all I looked at was the gas and oil.

[@sarahemerson3174]

Someone said we should do that, but didn’t say why. Thank you, it makes perfect sense now.

[@JamesTheForester]

No problem 😊

[@MrTekky93]

Just got my first chain saw earlier this year a Husqvarna 445 and the second time I used it the chain was really tight didn't want to even move. Now I realize why as I had adjusted the chain tighter after 30min of using it the first time. Thanks for the great video

[@chance5002]

I did not know this and just about a week ago I bought a new chain for my chainsaw. It did in fact keep listening up and I did in fact keep tightening it. As I watch this, I pulled out my chainsaw and it the chain is very tight. Thank you. Very informative video.

[@BourneAccident]

Great video. You can actually feel the saw struggling if you're paying attention. I always leave the chain with just a bit of sag in it. Not enough to be a sloppy fit, but just enough to feel the saw rev freely.

[@Digidoc316]

I've noticed this and was surprised to find so little information on thermal expansion / contraction! GOOD JOB!!

[@carenbarnet378]

Thanks James, this is something else I've learnt today about my chainsaw. As a long time hobbyist user, I never thought about loosening the chain after use. I will from now on. Safe Chainsawing.

[@alansutton2858]

If you didn’t adjust it while it was hot? You won’t need to loosen it off at the end of the day. It just returns to how you set it in the morning when cold.

[@jims6323]

The Stihl book for my MS 261 saw covers this, never thought about it for 50 years, but now I slacken all the saw chains when I'm done for the day. Good Job!

[@JamesTheForester]

Thanks!

[@twobeards6714]

Got that saw... It's a lightweight monster. I always slack the chain when the saw goes on break or into storage.

[@bwalker4194]

Excellent information! Also, adjust your chain with the saw’s nose sitting on a block of wood so when you tighten the adjusting nuts, the bar is in its uppermost position.

[@karlrovey]

Most manuals say to pull up on the tip of the bar while adjusting the chain.

[@Gyppor]

Well, I learned something new today after using chainsaws for 15 years! Thanks for the video, I'll be paying more attention to my chain tension now.

[@7seasons31]

Yep, I’ve been doing this incorrectly almost exactly as you described. Thanks for the vid!

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it helped!

[@anthonynewton1684]

this is explained in the Stihl hand book,I have been doing this since the first time I used a chainsaw that was thirty years ago,So yes very important and good maintenance tip👍

[@southernstarreview]

Last Friday i was given a relatively good condition MS381. I started it no worries, but the chain was loose. Now I know why. Cheers mate. Good video

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it helped!

[@wolfspwn1]

I've only been cutting firewood for home in the last couple of years and I've watched a lot of KZbin videos on "how to's". I'm so happy that I came across this video. Thank you so much for this great advice 👍🙏

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help ☺

[@NotALot-xm6gz]

I was very lucky that the after sales guy that set up my new MS-230 at the agri store gave me the 60 second do’s and don’ts run down after he’d fitted the bar and tested the saw for me and it included this tip.

[@JOEZEP54]

Like many of the other commenters I was not aware of this. Great tip, thank you. Stay safe, Joe Z

[@desyquintero8451]

Great video sir. I run a tree business and I have learned the best chain tension is loose rather than "perfect" . A loose chain will help make room for the slow expanding bar when it finally comes to temp/length. This is especially true for larger saws 20 and above.

[@JamesTheForester]

Great tip!

[@SturmwolfDK]

Damn. I've been using chainsaws for 15 years, and have never thought of this, but I have experienced the described problem with three of my five chainsaws. It makes perfect sense watching this video. Thanks alot! That's sound advice and a life saver regarding the chainsaw. I'll head over to my workshop right away and take the tension off (used two of them earlier today) 👍

[@Glynchbrook]

I’m a new chainsaw user and have noticed this exact thing! Thanks for the professional explanation, that has reassured me a lot!

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help! Thanks for the comment 👍

[@Jordan-qr1zo]

Ran outside in the freezing cold to sort this out after a session today, It was tight! Thanks

[@JamesTheForester]

You're welcome. Glad it was helpful!

[@m998hmmwv7]

Great idea and something most people would never think about. Usually my last cuts leave the chain in a loose way so I put it away without tightening. But now that I'm aware of this I will check and make sure. Thank you for making this video.

[@morjesusgan3]

Same exact thing happened to me on my first use of my new chainsaw. Thankfully I realized what was happening before i went out and used it. Thanks for sharing!

[@Newbie-is2xr]

I've got myself an electric chain saw. I'm glad I found your channel, very informative!

[@JamesTheForester]

Awesome! Thank you!🙂

[@FeguerFineArt]

I always check my oil, gas, and chain before running. But after watching, I think this might be a good idea to implement, with less tension on everything while not in use. I will still do my pre-check as always. Thanks for the tip.

[@JamesTheForester]

Thank you! 😊

[@jonhill373]

I think I’ve been very careful of over tightening through the many years, been cognizant of the fact that almost everything in our world experiences expansion and contraction through heat and cooling, but never thought of how it could affect my chain. Brilliant, and thanks a bunch.

[@JamesTheForester]

😊 glad it was helpful

[@Sethhaun78]

Gordy west coast saws does video with Jacob Rodgers about changing the sprocket and chain tension .very interesting he talked with makers head of Oregon they recommend changing sprocket way way more than most of us guys do .very good video.

[@joshuawiedenbeck6944]

As soon as I clicked on your video I realized what you were going to say and that I had completely missed it for years.

[@timhallas4275]

I'm an auto mechanic, and I know a little bit about how temperature effects tolerances. When I bought my first chainsaw I noticed how the chain became slack after an hour of continuous cutting, but I knew that at least some of this had to be from heating the metal. I did not stop to adjust the chain tension. I just let it cool completely down and sure enough it did not need any adjustment.

[@MF-le7fp]

Learn something new every day. Thanks, brother man. 👍

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help ☺

[@markarita3]

Nice avatar 🙂

[@Macm73]

Something you wouldn’t think about but obvious when pointed out. Thanks for the tip. 👍

[@JamesTheForester]

Happy to help!

[@ckhorwias4149]

Thank you for the reminder. It's one of these things that is so obvious and so often overlooked. Thanks again!

[@JamesTheForester]

😊

[@trollrx]

Bought my first chain saw a few weeks ago, I actually read the manual and this was explained right in there.

[@zacharybennett3249]

RTFM: Who Knew‽ 😄

[@germando81s]

I’ll be buying my first chainsaw soon. Learning as much as possible regarding proper use and maintenance. Very help tip, thank you!

[@JamesTheForester]

You're welcome 😊 thanks for the comment 👍

[@marknagy4779]

Very good video learned something new also let your saw warm up before gunning it because it will wear the cylinder wall out sooner.

[@theheyseed]

Good advice and easy to overlook. I did like seeing you lift the bar when making the adjustment.

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it was helpful!

[@matthewhall3165]

Sir, you just gained another subscriber. I'm embarrassed to admit this never occurred to me, nor was it taught when I was a full- time arborist. I knew where you were going with this during the coffee break...🤔🤦‍♂️😂🙌👍👍

[@TheCdavis411]

Brother you just leveled up my game and about 30,000 other people as well! Thanks for this.

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad I could help! 😊👍

[@rw7594]

I read about this in some form. I always check the tension before using it. I keep over tightening in mind. I'm a new user BTW. Did lots of reading (especially the manual) and watching before ever starting my saw. Good reminder to ease off tension if you tighten it during use.

[@ralphsawyer9535]

Makes complete and total sense to me. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Thank you!

[@JamesTheForester]

You're more than welcome. Thank you 😊

[@chaswarren7239]

Thanks James, I learn't the hard way & trashed the end sprocketr bearing on my bar. By the way that hand guard looks really beaten up. How does that happen ?

[@JamesTheForester]

I hit it with another saw trying to free it from a trapped kerf! I have posted another video showing how to replace it on a different saw. Its the stihl chainsaw strip down and deep clean video. Thanks!

[@Treestouch]

Thank you for this! I use saws everyday and have never been taught this important piece of knowledge!

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment!

[@davidmartin1015]

Very good , common-sense video. One small point of disagreement I have is the importance of warming the saw up before starting to cut. There are a few factors at play here, the first is the the very tight tolerances in the different components of the piston , rings and the bore, they warm up at different rates , then , when the saw is put to work it could be doing 12k revs or more straight up. I once killed a saw I believe by not doing this warm-up ; the bore appeared to be badly scored all of a sudden for no apparent reason and it would have been uneconomic to repair it. Funnily in 40+ years of sawing no-one had ever really explained the importance of this to me. I now always do about 5mins warm-up at idle before starting to cut.

[@hosslane320]

Had a drag bike builder talk to me years ago about not starting saw cold and running it hard from the get go . Engines need to warm up . 1985 o28 AV still doing great .

[@toddgaignat5759]

I was going to add that, good point on warming up saw which I recently started doing after browsing some other videos.

[@EarlyMist]

Makes total sense. My bows (traditional archery) ideally need to be unstrung till next use. Makes sense that a chain under tension with fluctuating temps affecting its metallurgical structure would need de-tensioning after each session..

[@rosewood1]

Anyone who uses a chainsaw seriously which means you have a proper commercial machine with a heavier chain knows that every tank you sharpen the chain properly and you adjust it and periodically remove the cover and bar clean reset dress and lubricate it. Chains shouldn't get too hot if they are really sharp cutting quickly and bar oil lubrication working properly. A hot chain is generally a blunt chain from bad practice. Unless your using a toy saw.

[@mrockefeller10mr]

What a great tip. I have violated everything James said. WOW! Thanks James - won't make that mistake anymore!

[@JamesTheForester]

Excellent! Thanks 😊

[@roadwarrior8560]

New one on me, might also be a good idea after you have loosened the the chain to slide that wrench there through the chain and bar to remind you to tighten it again before you begin work again.

[@JamesTheForester]

Thanks for the comment. That is a great idea too!

[@vinnysmith4474]

My 5 year old ryobi died just recently and i've bought a lovely new Husqvarna. Never realised this and makes sense now i know. Cheers for the advice.👍

[@JamesTheForester]

I'm glad to help. Best of luck with your new saw. Huskys are great bits of kit. 👍

[@crxess]

Thanks for this. I never considered cooling/shrinkage, however I check my chain on all my saws before running them. *I am concerned with a Chain Bar upgrade I did though. I changed from a 20" Bar/Chain combo to a 22" set - .058/.325 . Upon adjusting the chain would lock up after turning about 1/2-2/3 rotation. (I always make several manual rotations when working on chain adjustment.) After redoing the adjustment twice and removing the cover once to look for mistakes or issues and after rotating the chain on the rim sprocket several revolutions I was a bit baffled. I reassembled, carefully aligning the tension adjustment pin, but this time I decreased the tension. The chain seemed reasonably tight and rotated more freely so I fired up the saw and it ran as expected. I am completely clueless why this brand new Bar/Chain combo acted this way. I also am not sure why a 22" Bar and 22" Chain is giving me almost 4 extra inches of reach, gauged by the exposure beyond the Scabbard. Bar is the same width as the 20".

[@beaugalbraith3891]

Brand new bar paired with a brand new chain will often have a lot of resistance. Running it a bit loose for the first few minutes will help. Also pour some chain oil directly on the bar and let it instantly lube the chain.

[@WatzaMataU.]

Excellent suggestion. Never thought of this before and I've been cutting for years, feeding our outdoor wood furnace. Thanks for the tip.

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help ☺

[@danstevens2204]

Beware the fatal shrinking chain 😳 I sharpen my chain after use and have it ready to go next time. Have avoided the dreaded shrink monster for 25 years so far

[@johnpollak3466]

I never thought about heating of the chain and how I’ve been stretching my chains. Thank you for the video.

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help

[@HrRezpatex]

I have used chainsaw for 30 years, but i have never thought about this, but it make sense.

[@JamesTheForester]

Thanks for the kind words 😊

[@gregarrell6132]

Great tip, I have been using chainsaws or many years, and have never been told about that. makes perfect sense, once you see why. Thank you James.

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@maxrockatanksyOG]

Pro Tip: Anyone with a MS 170 or 180, buy the MS261 chain adjuster that moves the adjuster between the 2 tightening nuts- makes life so so much easier. Also do the spark arrestor delete & lever the muffler vents out a tad

[@68fmj51]

I didn't know that a MS 261 adjuster would fit on a MS 170, this is good to know. I've had my 170 for eleven years. Wish I had known sooner!

[@marklam8548]

Why the adjuster...???

[@terdferguson1736]

Ya i actually did the orange carb swap and muffler mod turned it into an absolute beast. Cut way over its weight. But I got a 400cm now and it’s been great . Power/weight is insane but still can wait to port it out in another season two.

[@chasp_0784]

⁠@@terdferguson1736what do you mean by orange carb swap? The carb I see recommended is the wt215

[@simontrangmar4537]

Thanks for sharing - great tip - I'm just a home user with not many hours under my belt yet. This is a gem. Cheers / Simon - Adelaide - Oz

[@tomphillips2608]

Son in laws brand new Stihl violently "disassembled". I now know why. He should have adjusted chain after a few minutes of use. Stihl made good on it. But, he was lucky. No chaps/ eye protection.

[@BillLowenburg]

Great tip and excellent explanation. I just bought an expensive saw and will do this from now on. I can see how running it with the chain too tight can ruin a lot of parts. Hopefully the saw will last a long time now that I’ll take your suggestions. Thanks!

[@JamesTheForester]

Thank you! Look after that saw and it will look after you 🙂

[@bman6065]

I feel like this is only an issue if the operator prefers their chain more on the tight side. I personally like mine to move freely before it gets hot. Than it hanging off slightly doesn't really bother me. If it's too tight any experienced operator should know pretty quickly. So for users who like theirs' tighter this is good. At first i thought you were going to say sticking a saw wrench in-between the chain and bar would ruin it. I came in ready to rant😂.

[@scottdowney4318]

Me too, I run on the loose side.

[@6panel300]

From the first time I ever picked up a chainsaw I was not only taught this but I told if I didn't retension un untension the chain I would be wearing it in a very painful place. I have noticed the Stihl cordless saws have a quick no tool release system to make this procedure easier.

[@JamesTheForester]

Great! Thanks for the comment 👍

[@GripFreak]

If your chain is adjusted correctly and with the right tension then heat expansion and cooling is considered in this adjustment. Those experiencing a chain too tight after it cools means the chain didn't have the correct tension to begin with. You can test this yourself with measurements before and after use regardless if it's been sitting an hour or a month. Another thing is one shouldn't be using a stretched chain to begin with. A stretched chain and chain that contracts after cooling is 2 different things.

[@devinbraun1852]

I had to figure this out through experience and observation. It is spot on fact. Curious that it’s not addressed more often in tutorials.

[@bluetrue6062]

Well, learned something today. Actually, there is quite a bit I don't know about chainsaws and that scares me.

[@tormodiv]

Great tip. It's written exactly as you state it, in the manual of my Stihl 025, but it had not caught my attention properly...

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it helped

[@paulg444]

keep your bar chain oil reservoir filled. Do not let it run dry. That is what super heats up the chain.

[@stevenboughner7255]

I do industrial maintenance and have spent many hours cutting firewood and I did not know this, great tip.

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad to help. Thanks for the comment!

[@zachbredeson7976]

I always loosen and retention the chain every tank and also light filing of the teeth every tank

[@JamesTheForester]

That's absolutely the way to go. Thanks for the comment!

[@benfox9382]

Obviously watching this after having killed my first chain... this exact way... thanks for the explanation! May the next chains benefit from your wisdom!

[@JamesTheForester]

Thanks for the comment ! Glad to have been a help. 👍

[@AutodidactEngineer]

Thank you for this invaluable information!

[@JamesTheForester]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment!

[@necurrence1776]

Thank you kindly for your explanations sir. I've extended the life of my chainsaw just by watching this video. You'd think a tool so expensive has an inbuilt feature to protect the sprocket from being overtighten by the chain.

[@JamesTheForester]

You are very welcome🙂

[@mikelastname]

This is a gold tip - just purchased a new chain and was tensioning it regularly, but after the first tank of fuel was done I spent a little while splitting and loading the rounds into the truck, and I did notice the saw was bogging down for a minute or so after starting again.

[@maddogrk1]

Excellent point, and I’ve just recently learned about it. I am sure that I’ve made a mistake and probably cost myself and the saw. dealers and anyone selling chainsaws should go out of their way to make people more aware of this, although I believe it is in the Stihl manuals.Really all you have to do is keep your chain tool handy ( something you should do anyway) and adjust your tension any time you’re stopping for a while, and anytime you’re starting up again after having stopped for a while. Once you’re aware of the right thing to do, it’s easy to develop some good habits. Thank you!

[@JamesTheForester]

You're welcome. Many thanks for the comment 👍

[@George.Coleman]

They should make some kind of tensioner that gets tighter when its hot and looser when its cold

[@robinthoms9980]

The do its called a bar wrench

[@Mountaincrazy]

Just like everyone else’s comments. I have noticed this and assumed it was debris in the bar. Cleaning it up and then tightening and frustratingly re tightening. This makes much more sense and saves money!!!!!👍👍👍👍

[@JamesTheForester]

Thanks for the comment. Glad it helped 🙂

[@ralphhardie7492]

Good one! Thanks for the update ☺️. Great tip

[@JamesTheForester]

No problem 👍

[@dewarner12]

This was really helpful. After several decades of using chainsaws, this recently happened to me. I subscribed.

[@JamesTheForester]

Awesome, thank you!

[@petebrett1]

Often people are frightened to run a saw with a little slack in the chain and run them too tight which causes various issues. Not unusual to need to readjust tension anytime. Set it up with a little slack in the first place ( hold end of the bar up as you adjust tension ) and you're all good, no need to loosen again after a session...

[@JamesTheForester]

Good advice !thanks for the comment 👍

[@garymcmullin2292]

you are spot on right, I have been running saws since 1976, never practiced this method. I always have chains sagging a bit on a warmed up saw, I leave it alone and just cut wood, when it cools down there is no excessive tension. People overdo the tightening thing to the detriment of the equipment. I milled hardwood with an Alaskan Mill in the 90's, learned to let things run on the loose side with plenty of oil.

[@johnbirman5840]

@@garymcmullin2292 Agree. Cut some trees yesterday, I’m real “picky” about initial tightening Before cutting. Nearly every time the tension “seems right” before the final tightening of the nuts, but inevitably the tension is too tight and have to loosen again and give it a little more slack. After that I never retighten. Just looked at chain next morning and it hasn’t bound up. A New chain is little even more finicky. I tend now to go through 1 tank, resharpen, and every couple tanks flip the bar and clean bar and around sprocket. On my 2nd chainsaw in 40 years. Just couldn’t get parts on the old one - still works fine.

[@TheSonsOfSimon]

I have been making this error for years. Thanks for bringing it to mind.

[@StoptheLie]

That was for people who don't use chainsaws often. Anyone that had training checks their chain before starting. The same people who don't know that most likely don't file the rakers down, don't wear safety equipment and don't wear gloves when doing what you did - be safe!

[@ticovogt]

Excellent tip. I came to understand this because of how much life was left in the teeth when I had to ditch the chain because there was no room for further adjustment to tighten. After every use simply go through this routine of loosening and the problem's solved.

[@JamesTheForester]

Excellent! Thanks for the comment 👍

[@allen4758]

Im a 25 year machinest who deals with measuring steal all day and I'll also admit, i never thought about this when it comes to a chainsaw,, awesome tip !

[@JamesTheForester]

😊 glad it helped!

[@jacobheinz8236]

It’s actually mentioned in the Owners Manual 😂. But the title to your video is much more eye catching, I have to admit. Also that your explanation is much more convincing than that of the Owners Manual too. Occasionally I remember to do this but when I’m dog tired, I forget. No Bull. Hey, thanks for this vid!