Beginners Guide to Power Supplies... How to understand the ratings

[@TheNinjaMonkey43]

as someone who has more experience with cars and modifying cars, than i have about computers, i appreciate you making analogies to the motor vehicle world, makes it a lot easier to understand

[@BigCherries]

I was thinking the same thing.

[@Dakhanavar99]

Fax will be more appropriate since the size of the pc is kinda big!

[@christopherkunkleakagrizzl4538]

Right! The way he brings them both together makes it so much easier to understand.

[@KiratakusanGaming]

So satisfying to hear him explain it that way with an engine blowing up. 😂

[@davidgomez5116]

Being a car guy my jaw dropped I couldn't believe he was actually referencing cars perfectly relating to the electricity pull from the power supply. Pure genius.

[@RipAndTear.]

"Power supplies are important because they supply power" -Jay 2021

[@cajunlightning]

"So let it be written. So let it be done."

[@DirtBike101]

nooo really they do?

[@buzzkill1988]

hehehehe

[@aizensousuke1200]

Respectfully doe lmfao

[@cybersphere]

Mind blown

[@abdullahal-shimri3091]

I upgraded my psu from 350W to 850W and it made a huge difference. My hard drives run smoother and there are no auto shut offs and BSODs anymore.

[@HiddenRealm]

350 is pretty damn low to be running anything modern lol.

[@mothmansmemeticwarehouse6478]

@@HiddenRealm I mean if all you're running is a board, a couple drives and you use integrated graphics (something like an office build) 350w is way more than you need really when your build will never pull more than around 120w

[@DynosOnline]

me chilling at 180w

[@beefwantko7269]

sure that might run windows xp untill you open up a few programs.. dude yoru talking about a 350 watt power supply the minimum even 20 years ago was 400-500

[@beckhydda]

@@beefwantko7269 yea it's so annoying watching these "pro builders" downplay the importance of having a good PSU with high watts, "no no you are fine with 500 watts for a 4060 and i9" the hell I am stop trying to downplay one of the most important pc parts just because it's not as flashy as other parts.

[@AzsryEdits]

ElectroBOOM would be proud of your terminology corrections

[@mythic017]

*FOOOOOOL BRIIIDGE REKTIFIEEEER*

[@mythic017]

@@Skedge I see what you did there

[@garethevans9789]

Sarcasm? 🤔

[@sayanghosh622]

@@mythic017 not a puny single bridge rectifier, A FULLL BRIDGEE RECTIFIAH

[@mikeygarza6423]

Azsry haven’t heard that name in years

[@HeroesFanProductions]

9:18 “But as you can see, the size does matter.” Welp, you heard it here folks!

[@WillFuI]

“Sad noises” but she tells me it doesn’t matter.

[@vroom3257]

Well it depends if she have a cave too

[@WillFuI]

@@vroom3257 this is true the “hard drive cages” take up a lot of room

[@WillFuI]

@@foamybelch well let me say I’m closer to a Walmart psu than a server cpu if u can’t my drift

[@Mystical_Zeus]

*Server Power Supply has entered chat*

[@justinphillips3298]

As someone who has been watching this channel for almost two years being a die hard console guy, these guides you do Jay have been amazing! I’ve just ordered parts to build my first one. By far my favorite tech channel especially cause I can relate being nerd about this kinda stuff but also being a car guy! The car analogies help so much 😂.

[@3960xRocks]

Welcome to the master race!

[@Teatime4Tom]

"I'm bored" "Uhh, power supplies?" At least I can probably buy these things.

[@LadyEmilyNyx]

Nope. Power supplies are as scarce as graphics cards (because mining requires power)

[@Son0x]

Jokes on you 😜

[@Teatime4Tom]

Can I least stare into an empty case?

[@kalidesu]

Seasonic sexy

[@dirtyvinyl8817]

buy? HA! try looking for a phanteks revolt x 1200, or EVGA PSU, you might think they discontinued it.

[@hquest]

9:00 the “proprietary” connector is a standard “IEC 320 C20” socket. Well known on heavy duty PDUs and by some gear such as the PSUs of Cisco Catalyst 6500-E series switches. They are usually combined with a NEMA 5-20R on the wall socket side of the cable, which has one of the prongs sideways (so it won’t purposely fit a 5-15R receptacle and therefore not be limited to 15A).

[@adsrbad9733]

Yeah, I have a huge 3000W 110-220v transformer with that cable to supply power.

[@wolffstarr]

Came here to say this - most network and/or datacenter engineers are extremely used to those plugs. At least he's got the reason for it correct, but yeah - not proprietary.

[@jessedunn3766]

You beat me to it! Also, in my experience C19 outlets are usually 220-240v.

[@hquest]

@@jessedunn3766 indeed they are usually 220/240V as they can carry up to almost 5kW however I’ve seen a few oddball power supplies being 110/127V and still using the C20/5-20R cords. Probably cheaper to manage one type of cable when those are bought and sold in bulk.

[@greywizard2557]

I'm glad I wasn't the only one to spot that. My 16A UPS use these.

[@derekpeterson1643]

“How do you know if it’s a good power supply? 80+ rating” 5 months later: It’s not a Gigabyte 🤣

[@abdullahal-shimri3091]

Ok genius

[@prodbyscrawny]

this is so funny cause i just had to replace my gigabyte power supply

[@carlosfernandez3565]

I'm a 38 y.o. PC newbie. Thanks to channels like yours, I'm even surprised I owned only Apple computers. Thank you for all the info all the time, you do an excellent job.

[@C0d0ps]

Never to late to learn I'm trying to teach myself programming. Since I can't afford the school atm and then I will get my official degree in a few years

[@SoulTouchMusic93]

It's never too late to repent.

[@drtydawg73]

@@SoulTouchMusic93 amen!

[@bl4z3_77]

Apple🤮

[@Byronic19134]

I've never owned an Apple computer but while researching PC parts to either build my own this time or buy a prebuilt....I'm just getting a headache and it's all making realize while Apple is so popular. Some people just want something they know will work.

[@gamerknott8791]

That clip at 11:44 scared crap out of me, i was watching this video on the side while playing games ._. So loud and sharp, lol

[@1Alex925]

me too 😅😅

[@TheBattleDwarf]

No kidding, scared the shit out me.

[@robert9495]

@@TheBattleDwarf damn ! + 1 here too.

[@BlackPlated]

I was watching this at night, on my phone, with all the lights out...

[@Flashira.]

I FUCKING JUMPED OUT MY CHAIR YO 😂😂😂

[@Lateral_G]

Your understanding of basic electronics and Physics helps. Most people don't really have background in EE and did not pay attention to physics. Good job in explaining it in a way a layman will "potentially" understand. Power delivery is overlooked and causes the most little issues. Even from the wall. I always recommend even a small ups to smoothen out the power the delivery into the PS.

[@ogshotglass9291]

I agree with that. Plus, when you power up any household device, there will always be a small surge in power consumption for at most a second. If all PC components are made to boot at say, 100% power consumption (which they never will, btw), it'll pull a bit more than that for the first split second. If you have a PSU only capable of drawing right at your max operation capacity, you could pop the power supply in this scenario. Going over also protects the system a bit against sudden power surges within your whole home, such as when the power goes out from lightning. The PSU will receive it, but it's less likely to deliver it. And finally, the higher a PSU is rated to go, typically less internal heat is produced per wattage due to thicker wiring. If you want a demonstration of how thicker wiring produces less heat, look at an incandescent light bulb. Chances are, if using say, a 65W bulb, the filament is less than a tenth of a millimeter thick, and that small 65 watts of power is heating that tiny wire up past 1900°F, causing it to glow. Now, look at the wall plug supplying that power. It's not heating it to that degree where it glows because it is made with much thicker wire.

[@sprinkles2765]

"Running lean is a bad thing" Civic: Blows up

[@deminybs]

I have an 09 civic, didn't rice it out, only thing I've done is replace rotors, calipers, brakes, rear cambers, lower motor mount and one wheel 😂, gets good gas mileage and is a standard so couldn't pass when my mom asked if I wanted to buy it lol

[@sprinkles2765]

@@deminybs my parents bought an 09 si sedan. That thing is quick

[@deminybs]

@@sprinkles2765 I bet, mine's the sedan as well just not the si , so I got the 1.8l engine, but any issues I've had have been suspension mainly lol, never had any issues with engine/transmission. at like 160k miles. Gonna shoot for 300k, then 500k ect lol

[@samuelrodriguez6684]

@@deminybs you sure got the juice out of it, eh?

[@deminybs]

@@samuelrodriguez6684 of course, might as well make what you got last. This is the 4th vehicle I've owned and I know plenty of others my age on 10+ lol. sold my old 03 focus also standard to a friend and he's about to hit 200k, I just drove it last weekend and is still running like a champ, he even brings it to me for oil changes 😂

[@lance5101]

Keep going around the pc with all the parts with analogies like you did for everyone to understand. You already have great content for the deep dive. Sometimes I just want a quick overview refresher on ram timings vs ram frequency without going cross-eyed on physics.

[@yeeleng1000]

I always thought power supplies were pretty awesome. They're probably the hardest working component in your system with the highest build quality compared to any other part.

[@EhdhdjeBdbdb-ow8hi]

Power supply is important because it supply power ~ Jay

[@iikatinggangsengii2471]

its like food, you can still live eating junks everyday

[@BrodyStag]

We’ve all sinned guys. We’ve lied, stolen, used God’s name in vain, and more. We now need to repent and trust that Jesus Christ died for our sins on the cross. This is very urgent tomorrow isn’t promised. Our works can’t save us but Jesus can!

[@russiandrivers9986]

You know it's good quality if the man at the shop says "hello my friend, special price for you, good quality".

[@mad1pengu619]

It's always, "What's the best power supply", or "What's the most powerful power supply". Someone finally made a recent guide on my question, "How should I CHOOSE a power supply".

[@PsychoticLucidity]

Great video Jay, I have been building custom boxes for over 25 years with my first build being off the 386 DX66 CPU if that doesn't date me. Believe me when I tell you that even with all those yeas of building under my belt I learned a ton about PSU's. Thx for revisiting this topic as I believe you helped me figure out what my issues with my current build are.

[@da_pawz]

I am a little lower than you maybe 20+ years... and yeah I learned through experiences lol At first I never pay attention to the importance of PSU and oh boy I paid with a high price

[@Earnhardtx]

The most important part of any PC build.Well said.

[@Kittsuera]

what do you mean its not the RGB ;D

[@MatteoP04ita]

iT dOeS NoT iMpRovE yOuR fPs

[@macblink]

in the power talk yes, but as a gamer I'd say it's the graphics card

[@Tore299]

9:01 If I'm not mistaken that is not a proprietary inlet but one of the standard IEC ones for high current C20 (C19 for the connector) I believe it is called. The more common inlet we see in PC hardware is the C14 (C13 for connector) defined in the same standard.

[@bashaaksema94]

If im not mistaken you are correct

[@jarrodreichelt5624]

As a guy who is more into motorsport that is looking at building a PC, comparing power supply to a cars fuel system has made this so much easier for me to understand what i'm looking at!

[@treebranch9802]

"Even the cheapest have an on off switch" hp:"they have a what now?"

[@xSpebaa]

Ive got a rev 1.0 Silverstone strider 650w platinum, I don’t have an off switch and that was once a £160+ psu

[@treebranch9802]

@@xSpebaa I was more so making a jab at hp just cutting a bunch of corners although props to them for not increasing the price of their computers with the whole gpu/cpu shortage going on

[@blahorgaslisk7763]

Actually a lot of PSU's lack a power switch. The "funny" thing is that a mechanical switch is one of the most fragile and failure prone components you are likely to see in a PSU, so removing it increases the reliability. So it's not only a sign of moneygrubbers getting their claws into the product. Well, the moneygrubbers do get some credit as lower failure rates means decreased costs for the manufacturer as well as less risk for the users, so it's a win win situation. Still I do prefer to have the power switch, but I won't cry myself to sleep if there isn't one.

[@TheObsesedAnimeFreaks]

@@blahorgaslisk7763 dude, most of the time you aren't going to be flipping the switch back and forth causing it to fail. However i've had corrosion related switch failures on a set of Mackie CR4's within a year of ownership, so I know they can fail. however they only usually fail after long periods of time or due to water damage or humidity damage. then you have light switches in homes that have been working for 40-50 years without issues so...

[@TheBarajas02]

Super Flower now sells directly to the consumer. They were the OEM for some of EVGA's high end PSU's. So if anyone is looking for a good quality 80+ gold PSU, check them out. Their prices are really good!

[@mrn234]

Now ? they doing that for years

[@TheyCallHimDietSeth]

Just wanted to drop a quick comment to say thank you for this video. I'm building my first PC in 10 years or so and have to re-learn a lot about the industry. This is some really helpful information!

[@fluidcultist2591]

Me, staring at my EVGA white 80plus: "We're friends right? You'd never hurt me?"

[@ZombieMan2090]

Same lmao

[@DopeEstonia]

I have evga 500w 80 white for my rx 570 and Ryzen 3600 ;(

[@malphadour]

@@DopeEstonia They are HEC models most likely - basically the top end of cheap OEMs - so not great, but also not likely to explode. They have been around making OEM stuff for a very long time and produce adequate quality stuff.

[@jpjukes]

Lol i have some random brand 500w psu with a 3700x and gtx 1080ti XD

[@ZombieMan2090]

@@jpjukes you are crazy lol but I got a corsair 80 plus 650w for my 3600 and a 3070 so I'm crazy abit too

[@IanSlothieRolfe]

That point about not using the modular cables supplied and not from another psu leads to an important point that is often overlooked - whether its a mobo, cpu, gpu or psu when you buy a high end component KEEP THE BOX and keep all the documents and unused accessories in it. You may need them later, and you'll know where to find them. It also makes it easier to sell on the part in the future, or store it if you're not using it but don't want to let it go.

[@IzzySarru]

I built my first gaming PC last year and I kept all the boxes and stuff partially for that reason, but mostly because they're just such nice looking boxes. The kind of high-quality boxes you could display.

[@mrn234]

I just throw all boxes in the Box of the case.

[@MastaSquidge]

Agree. The power supply box, extra cables, chassis screws, IO plates and everything else stays for all my builds. I still have my Zalman ZM850 psu box from my 2008 Q6600 build because it's currently being used as a light duty gaming pc with a Q9650 and 1050. That power supply went into a 3770k build which is now in possession of a friend, and all the case and psu goodies for it are just in a smaller box in their closet.

[@Trippsy05]

I kept all my boxes for everything for years and years but a month or two ago I had to make a lot of space and the empty boxes were dead volume so I got rid the boxes from things I didn't intend to sell. Turns out I decided to make some major PC upgrades... okay more like a rebuild at this point, and now I don't have anything to ship the parts if I sell them. I will probably repurpose most of the parts as a work PC for a family member but it kinda sucks that selling isn't as much of an option as it would be if I did have the boxes. Edit: I did save the important things like extra screws and the m.2 heatsink because it seems like I keep going back to grab that stuff as my PC evolves. Make sure you don't throw that stuff away if you do throw away the boxes.

[@robinfox4440]

Building my first PC and these videos by Jay have been really insightful. It's nice to see someone cut through the BS, marketing, and consumer fads and be real about what you actually need and what's a waste of money.

[@garethevans9789]

Fact check: PSUs are more efficient at 240v than 110v (it can be quite a substantial amount). Voltages being 'close' isn't a thing between DC and AC. Plus most fans and lighting use a negligible amount of power, so not really a factor.

[@MaxSeidel1]

On the same note, PSU's are usually most efficient above 50% and ratings lower than Titanium don´t even provide numbers for below 50%. So I would personally not buy a 1000 W PSU if my system will only draw 600 W max and below 500 W most of the times.

[@garethevans9789]

@@MaxSeidel1 That's very true, for sometime there was a craze of getting massively overkill PSUs, that seems to have now shifted to qualify over quantity. Personally, I'm looking to PSUs going solely 12v, better on all levels (price, efficiency, cabling).

[@bashaaksema94]

True, If you are interested that is bacause of the universal mains differencr they need to boost the voltage (typically too 400VDC) internally so bacause the 230VAC is closer to that it does not need to work so hard.

[@jiriwichern]

Tell that to those crazy HyperX Fury SSD RGB LEDs that produce so much heat it kills your SSD at boot time.

[@malphadour]

@@MaxSeidel1 Exactly this - and why I personally think Jays advice to get an 850w to 1000w PSU is bad. I think he is also not that up on how PSU tech has advanced in the last 5 years - the efficiency curves are a lot flatter and you no long need something that is double your peak power draw. For the vast majority of people a 550w or 650w is way more than adequate.

[@Diceman82]

"All modern Power Supplies have this little switch on the back" *Stares at stack of OEM PSU's* they really want to save the 3 cents on that switch don't they?

[@TheOJDrinker]

*looks like last 2 PSUs*... Maybe I need to get a modern power supply.

[@sviktor4]

Its not just about the 3 cents, they want less human error as possible as well. If no switch there is no way to stupid humans to switch it off then call Dell costumer service "the PC doesn't turn on".

[@Diceman82]

@@sviktor4 As a former PC repair call guy, this would be a considered a HAPPY day for me. Much more of these and much less of "Dead rats/bugs in the psu and "It didn't turn on so I took a hammer/kicked it/shotgun to it" plz.

[@Jantzku]

He said "pretty much all powersupplies, even the cheapest ones on the market have this toggle switch". Never said that all of them have it.

[@XerxezsX]

Yep that's how car companies and other companies make money, 3 cents they saved makes them hundreds of thousands of dollars over million units sold.

[@Shehias]

I'm really glad the first thing I researched when I decided I wanted a new PC was power supplies. I didn't quite understand why, but I figured the best thing I could do for my system was research max power draw for the components that I was planning to get, and what I would potentially be willing to upgrade to. I'm not big in to OC, water cooling, or "high end" graphics cards, so for me a 750w PS was perfect for both now and any upgrades I plan. My max power draw in my current system is about 550w, so the overhead will let me reliably use this thing for years, upgrades be damned.

[@HungNguyen-sy4oz]

Jay: 850w, 80+ gold is the way to go Me, a Vietnamese, checking prices: holy f**,, that's almost a 1050 ti. Greetings from Nam, guys.

[@goa141no6]

I got a 850w bronze evga power supply (japanese components advertised on it) for less than half 1050ti pandemic price.

[@matasa7463]

Sounds like Vietnam needs a different sort of freedom... you'd think being so close to the manufacturer would make shit cheaper.

[@dookcurruff9047]

@@goa141no6 ouch a bronze? LOLLLWKWKWKSIIWWJWJ

[@goa141no6]

@@dookcurruff9047 RX 5600 XT and ryzen 3600 so no hurry on wattage. The other power supplys were almost the same price in my country and the one I was using made my card very unstable at high demand.

[@gumpforest3073]

Hi thirdworlder..

[@philharmonic2251]

Beginners guide to power supplies: You'll need one in a couple of years when you can actually buy the other parts that go in a PC.

[@neildoe1617]

No doubt. I've been without a computer for a while now and finally have the money to build one but prices are crazy. I got a decent deal on a used graphics card and cpu by buying a used prebuilt dell inspiron 5680. I just hate dell and there lack of options they give the owner in bios. So probably gonna just take the useful components out of it and build something.

[@safetyzone2962]

@@neildoe1617 The case looks like it has decent airflow and it also looks like the motherboard is a standard size, which means you might be able to replace the motherboard with something better.

[@KashifKhan-eq1si]

Found this video as I am searching for a psu for my computer. This was recommended by youtube and I am really happy that I clicked the link - fantastic video - very simple, to the point and easy to follow - love the decision at the end too - that is what I found helpful because it aligned with what I was thinking - helped me with knowing that I am heading in the right direction. Thank you very much once again.

[@christophergreene5475]

Literally was in the process of switching my power supply for a new one while watching this. I was not planning on changing the cords but just the box. Jay you may have saved a component of mine from getting blown up since I was going to use the old EVGA cords not the Corsair ones. Thank you

[@TravisFabel]

Just to clear up something Jay said, there isn't a specific protection device for overcurrent. No relay or fuse. These are all what are called switch mode power supplies. They take a transistor and turn it on and off really fast. Think of it as a switch. So it turns on and off really fast to keep the voltage in the right area. To pretend we're doing this with light let's say that you have a hundred volts going to your light but you want 50 volts going out to it. Well if you turn the light on and off really really fast with half the time being on and half the time being off it would get an average of 50 volts. So then you have certain components to average the voltage and the current (capacitors and inductors) and this lets it even out to a nice smooth voltage. The feedback loop of voltage also gets a feedback from the current being drawn. If the current goes too high it just keeps it off longer. This makes the power effectively shut off. The nicer ones have a dead man switch that "flip" electronically... this turns it off until power is removed... if you didn't do this and just connected the feedback directly, It would see the overcurrent, and then cut off but then there's no more overcurrent problems so it cuts back on and then there's an overcurrent problem so it cuts off and effectively you would be switching it to a lower voltage but it would still be popping on and off and giving you a brownout condition. In any case I was just saying there's no fuse in there. It's just the logic for the power supply itself with the feedback of a shunt. As far as I know none of these power supplies use a hall effect sensor

[@shadowopsairman1583]

tlnr

[@uncleg1nger779]

My guy just did his digital tech essay

[@Boborjan1986]

Yeah, it would be to difficult for a lot of people. Lets just stick to the fuse idea, thats more easier to digest. :D (When he said people still come to him and saying that 750W powersupply would push 750 into the system, i was... WHAAATTT?)

[@bashaaksema94]

This dude is correct. Did you also design a power supply yourself by any chance?

[@PhilipJMayo]

OMG! That comment about not sharing cables between power supplies! Stuck at the end... I almost skipped it! I was just planning to use cables from another PSU to troubleshoot a problem I have, not knowing that little tidbit. I will now research the pinouts and contact the manufacturer direct, first. You may have saved me from blowing up my new build with that off-hand little comment near the end. Thanks!

[@KartofkaGaming]

I just have to say I love that Jay is into cars too. The comparisons to automotive stuff are always just spot on

[@quiksol]

thanks for mentioning about not reusing cables, I currently have a modular and was thinking of upgrading power supplies and just reusing the cables so i would not need to redo the cabling.

[@Suchmxn]

I’ve been into car audio since 2018 and my pet peeve is that if you can get a power supply that is 3/4 more or double what your PC is pushing (especially if you’re just owning your first PC) is the better because you can guarantee that (if you chose white or bronze rated) you won’t under power your PC and having a higher power supply will no way shape or form damage your component unless you have a shitty power supply. in the case of amplifier it’s the same thing, the only difference you have to tune your Amplifier to match what your speakers can handle

[@louiesatterwhite3885]

To anyone, I wouldn't recommend anything more than double your systems average power draw under load. Power supplies are most efficient between 50 and 70% draw, outside of those bounds you start losing efficiency, sometimes to the degree of a whole rating lower. Now, this would add some cost to your power bill on the magnitude of cents per year, but if you are going to buy say a platinum rated psu, why not use it within the platinum rated efficiency?

[@ethanstoker1687]

If only this vid came out yesterday, I just bought mine!

[@BeastRevived2412]

What psu did you buy?

[@Crescent7]

Pain

[@ethanstoker1687]

@@BeastRevived2412 Corsair Cx 650 but I don’t know if I should stick with it or find something else

[@thereddog223]

@@ethanstoker1687 depends on what you have for components

[@timid_5819]

@@ethanstoker1687 corsair is a good brand

[@abp1599]

"Gold-rated is quite affordable these days." *cries in European electronics market*

[@beseakos]

Imagine how hard it is for me to find an sfx/sfx-l form factor powersupply :(

[@JustSomeGuyLV]

European here too. Chieftec gdp 650c is very affordable for gold rated psu, i have it in my pc. And it's a very reputable brand.

[@nikolajankovic3735]

I managed to get evga G3 750w for 60€. With another 7 years of warranty

[@sadekinessrine3510]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIe1Z5SnetOhZ8U

[@elecman748]

( cries in latinamerican *ultra* overpriced crap )

[@tehweh8202]

Great video. Was just checking out PSUs for my new build and was absolutely confused. Now it all makes sense. Thanks a lot!

[@JMUDoc]

*Beginners' Guide to Graphics Cards* "Jay, nobody can BUY graphics cards right now." *Fine - Beginners' Guide to Power Supplies* "..."

[@TheRandyWanker]

So true.

[@CaptainBlitz]

So true.

[@Kyousuku]

So true.

[@foolsErrand-guy]

Corsair has a handy chart about which cables work on which PSU, saved me from blowing my stuff up.

[@JugheadJones03]

Have not built a rig in ages and buddy gave me a free new case this week. Thanks for this great refresher vid! 😄

[@ADCArtAttack]

I KNEW me sitting down and adding up all the Power of my units in my Extension wasn't a waste of time! Phew, avoided a fire. Or did I. 🤫

[@TalesOfWar]

Dun dun duuuun!

[@FangerZero]

That dedication... if you did that, I just went to pcpartpicker lol

[@battosaijenkins946]

@JayzTwoCents, Rule #1 of PC building, never EVER go cheap on PSU's. Your computer will thank you~

[@TalesOfWar]

@@FangerZero I think by extension they may mean a house extension? Personally I'd get an actual electrician to do all that for me so I don't kill myself lol, or get screwed over on insurance if something goes wrong.

[@ryz.4827]

Next thing you know your hoUse is on fire lol 🔥

[@starz7767]

The timing of this video is really convenient. Just last night I was watching Jay’s video about power supplies from 6 years ago and then this video pops up in my recommended section

[@ucrjedi]

Did you notice that the advice changed? In the previous video Jay says that nobody needs more than 500w. Now he says we need maximum power, preferably 850w.

[@buriedbits6027]

This channel and gamer nexus. Always great for learning how to understand the ins and outs of pc building. Excellent advice, I like the recommendation on going with a higher rating PSU than drive power at the edge where the PSU is under near constant full load due to a high draw from the combination of components.

[@brianhoward9217]

One of the VERY BEST vids I think you've ever done jay. Straight forward and extremely USEFUL subject. You're very much on your game here. No fluff! Personally I always buy Seasonic (they actually MAKE the unit, not just stick their name on it like Corsair or Coolermaster et al!), they've proven to me over the years they are THE best, if not one of the best 2 or 3. I always buy at LEAST 850 GOLD and usually Titanium 1000W for my top systems. You're right, top quality PSUs are money VERY well spent - no gain whatsoever in economising on a PSU - always buy the best you can lay your hands on! Well done mate, cheers from Sydney Australia.

[@jamesloll4601]

I JUST bought Seasonic's 1000 watt power brick. First brick I bought because I had a custom build done for me... believe they went too conservative of the system's power brick. The good old fans and lights fire up three count back to dead. Bought Seasonic BECAUSE they weren't the cheapest and their reviews are actually solid. Buy the cheapest, don't be surprised when you buy garbage but buy the most expensive? Don't be surprised you overpaid. Seasonic's winning point with me? That twelve?!? Twelve year warrantee! My custom build someone ELSE done for me was toting a Radeon 6600 GPU and a Ryzen 9 5950 CPU and between those two they went with a 500 watt power brick?!? OUCH on my end as I'm fixing that mistake with a new one double the wattage. But I do like how Jay gets straight to the point without weighing you down with too many details. So I can say I rebuilding my custom tower PERSONALLY this time. Paid someone to do it right, they messed up. Least if I do it myself I only have myself to blame when I mess up. The real kicker for a successful build is to slow down and understand why things go together as they go together versus just throwing it together and cross you fingers. Custom builds ARE expensive too so doesn't it make sense to slow down and ACTUALLY research it and take three days to put it together right versus slapping it together in a day? There are a TON of videos showing how to do it right so take the time to watch other's succeed on their builds because YOUR oopsie usually destroys parts and your stuck buying them again.

[@danielsmith6834]

The AC connector on the EVGA 1600W power supply isn't proprietary. It's a standard IEC C19/C20. The conventional 'Kettle Cord' connectors (C13/C14) are only rated for up to 10A -- which would be a 950/1000W power supply on NA voltages. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#C19/C20_coupler

[@JudeHavoc]

Indeed, this was straight forward and simple to understand. I am by no means an expert in this field, but I have built one PC and regret not paying $50 more to get a higher watt PSU. Lesson learned

[@bigman9490]

I know about PSUs,but I still love Papa Jayz explanations. Just someone telling you, "You're doing fine. Keep on track." so soothing.

[@CDreii]

The best quote in this video “Size does matter”

[@beaut-ful-d-saster]

I wish I could give you a hug. This made so much sense and took a lot of the confusion and anxiety out of things for me!

[@jonnyGURU]

Ok. First, I want to say that I do think Jayz is a cool guy, love a lot of his content and think that he does really good things for the PC community. But... 1:45: Actually, 230V isn't harder to "step down" than 115V. You're supposed look at the CURRENT. And 230V is lower CURRENT because it's twice the VOLTAGE of the U.S. So, it's actually easier and cheaper to make a PSU that is "230V Only" (example: Cooler Master MWE 230V) because you can down size the primary components by as much as 50% since they only have to support 50% of the current. 8:47: All the fans are about the same size, Jay. You can't put bigger than a 140mm in a PSU housing. 8:58: That power connector is not proprietary. It's called a C20. It's made to handle upwards of 16A instead of just 10A which is what the C14 we see on lower wattage PSUs is rated at. 11:08: It's not actually a "bell curve", or typically isn't any more. You're example is, because it's an older platform using an older, cheaper topology, but newer, better PSUs tend to use switching technologies that "flatten" that curve. Typically the only "curve" you'll see is below 10% load. This is why you'll see that the newer 80 PLUS reports actually include a 10% efficiency requirement. And the newest Intel spec calls out a 2% efficiency that requires a PWM controller that goes into "burst mode" to achieve this higher efficiency at these lower loads. 11:13: The PSU is only getting marginally hotter by being run at higher load. Most of the heat it should be getting is from the components its powering and components like MOSFETs actually become more efficient as they get hotter. So what you'll actually see is a "bounce back" at the higher load. Google "MOSFET Parameter Shifts Near Maximum Operating Temperature" or something like that. 11:51: Actually, not all PSUs today have OCP. To have OCP, you need a 14-pin supervisor IC. To have multiple +12V rails, you would need an even bigger IC, an MCU or multiple supervisor ICs (example: Corsair HX). If the PSU only has a 10-pin supervisor IC (example: Gigabyte GP-P750GM) you DO NOT have OCP and have to rely on OPP, which is on the AC side of the PSU and is considerably slower to react than OCP. 15:52: No. They're not. There's a lot of OEMs out there, and more than half the time, the "brand" (Cooler Master, Corsair, beQuiet to name a few) have their own engineering teams, so even if they come from the same OEM, they're not going to equate to "the same power supply". Even if you start with a core platform, you can change the components on that platform to obtain or improve different features, or remove them completely to make the PSU cheaper. Sure, a smaller company like NZXT or Fractal will just walk up to Seasonic and say, "can you make this look like an NZXT or Fractal product", that's not usually the case. Hope this helps and please remember you can always reach out to me if you have questions.

[@skiiwee293]

This really needs to be liked more. Jay, please reach out to Jonny. You have so much bad information in here that will cause a lot of novice inexperienced builders to think they're making a good choice, but it ends up being a poor decision.

[@Stefan_Payne]

Thanks for your work to correct this video! Keep it up!

[@noahwhyte5485]

🤓

[@alexarrington5112]

I have a question regarding power supply reliability. What is the best way to determine that a power supply has reliable components (caps, mosfets, etc)? I’m building a nas/24hr server on atx, so a reliable is really important to me; however, everyone seems to assume that a gold or platinum rating means that a power supply has good components. Is this true?

[@jonnyGURU]

@@alexarrington5112 Not true. Gold, Platinum, etc. is just an efficiency rating.

[@LadyEmilyNyx]

"The plugs haven't changed in decades" Despite nvidia trying to force it down our throats...

[@anhingathing2382]

I read this right as I heard it in the video lmao

[@stardust_sonic]

You mean their funky 12-pin power connector?

[@shaneeslick]

Don't forget Intel's 12v only set up that is used by Dell/HP/Lenovo in some of their PCs

[@deathkiller008]

technically for the purposes of this video because they provide the adapter his statement is correct but yeah their "new standard" can shove off

[@TalesOfWar]

@@shaneeslick The Intel 12V thing is more for OEM's than the kind of PSU you'd typically use in your custom build.

[@darkwolfx333]

@11:44 you scared the coffee right out of my mouth as I had your video playing in the background while compiling code. Good job Jay, you got me lol!

[@elliothunter2579]

I love Jay's Beginners Guides - I may not need them, but I love being able to help those who may be new to PC building :D.

[@motionblurofhappy7804]

Im going to hold you to that and ask question whenever I have them until I figure it out. I have a friends who is amazing with PCs but I don’t want to annoy him even though he loves helping. I was going to keep doing research and go to micro center for some deals and actual in person help. Also don’t gotta wait for them in the mail lmao. Can just take them back if they’re messed up. It’s like the most important purchase I’ve made in years so I’m legit just nervous and having buyers remorse before even buying it.

[@fluffyfloof9267]

8:57 It's not proprietary - it's a C19 socket for a C20 plug, standardized in IEC 60320-1. C19/C20 is rated for 16A, rather than the common 10A of C13/C14. ;)

[@mrln.bllmnn]

good thing about living in germany is that you get minimum 2300 watts with 10 amps and our fuses are rated for 16 amps so you get a minimum of 3500 watts. apart from that everything is rated for 230 volts but we most likely get 250 volts...

[@robertpearson8546]

When the PC first came out, efficiencies were around 70%. Now days they are up to 80%. I 1981 the power supply I designed was 97%. Teslaco boasts 98% using synchronous rectification. The Ćuk converter can be tuned to cancel both ripple and EMI resulting in a true DC-DC transformer. It also puts less strain on the components than an LLC converter. Efficiencies can be increased by using Germanium Nitride (GN) FETs with integrated controllers like the ones from Texas Instruments. There is a vast difference between what the best companies (Teslaco) build and what most PC manufacturers build.

[@cheetor5923]

SMPS really are some kind of black magic. We have moved light years in the last decades in terms of how insanely low Rds(on) MOSFETs can be.. Long gone is the old TL494 and common wound core PSUs of days past.

[@robertpearson8546]

@@cheetor5923 The components have improved, but the circuits date back to 1920. When I look at magnetic design, the first thing they do is select a core with a relative permeability of 1500-2000. Then they cut an "air gap" reducing the relative permeability to 2. They would get better results using a wooden core (4 vs 2). It's like buying a tire and then sawing it in two.

[@LovelyAlanna]

dude, here in mexico we still have those free psu's that come with some "el cheapo" cases, and people really piss me off because they just won't understand that their $800 computer is just gonna blow up and all their investment is gonna go to hell if they don't spend at least the $50 bucks an 80 plus bronze psu costs

[@brujahlenerius]

Haha oh I understand your struggle

[@prathmeshpatil6425]

😂

[@bashaaksema94]

Well it wont always blow up the system. Only if the design of the PSU itself is build. Otherwise its just going to blow its power components

[@bichirro]

Y siempre andan recomendando "no por que gastas tanto en una fuente de poder con esta barata te alcanza" hasta que les jode algo haha

[@marvinracer88]

Una dama de cultura, puedo ver.

[@thomasgiles2876]

Jay: "Your Molex" People building their first PC in 2021: "WTF is a Molex"

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Molex isn't just in pc's, plus they provide more vd asata connector. 80 plus isn't that old. If any thing have a gold.

[@chestbuster1987]

There is no need for them to know the pain

[@CheapBastard1988]

@@chestbuster1987 It's not like SATA is particularly great but it's less awful than MOLEX.

[@Bell-et1lg]

What on earth are you powering your fans with

[@garethevans9789]

Those connectors which often have a dodgy pin and sometimes melt? 🤔 Trying to run a modern GPU on Molex would not be fun.

[@XristoferLee]

Your channel has been a god send. I have been out of the loop since 2015 so these refreshers a great.

[@A1BASE]

Add me to that list of people that didn’t know modular PSU cables weren’t interchangeable. I’ve toasted multiple components before I realized what was wrong.

[@computernerdtechman]

I fried seven (7) 8TB Hard drives for my media server. Surprisingly one survived. I had no idea the modular PSU cables weren't interchangeable. WHY DO THEY KEY THE PLUGS AND SOCKETS THE SAME THEN?? If they are not going to use the standard pin layout DON'T USE THE SAME PLUGS so people cannot unknowingly put it in the wrong socket.

[@Mart-E12]

They are marked on my 500W Corsair psu but not on the 850W I just ordered, there's a ton of them with nothing written there so I hope it's gonna be in the manual

[@computernerdtechman]

@@Mart-E12 Manufacturers should not ASSUME people are going to read manuals. This is not something that would be a simple oops. This can cause SERIOUS damage (which it did for me and others). If they are going to have proprietary pin out, they should have proprietary key plugs. Just like the proprietary power cord plug on the 1600W power supply JayzTwoCents showed in the video.

[@Krogdalo]

@@computernerdtechman You could flip this though, why would people assume you can interchange them? Manuals are right there and for a reason....

[@computernerdtechman]

@@Krogdalo Because they fit in the SAME HOLE!!!! THAT'S why people would assume you can interchange them. If they didn't want them to go into that socket, they would make the plug different. That's why they don't make ethernet plugs look like electrical plugs.

[@KyleFalconer1]

I would've liked to have seen a discussion about power supply rails or when it's appropriate to share a single pcie cable to a GPU that has more than one 6 or 8 pin plug on it.

[@windrixx]

It's never appropriate, don't do it. Each 6/8 pin on a GPU should have its own cable from the PSU.

[@Mart-E12]

Yeah I'm still confused about that, or where to even connect the gpu because sometimes the pci connectors are marked as cpu or peripherals but sometimes they aren't marked at all

[@EllantEladar37]

Thanks Jayz this is what I really need to know more about the power supply.

[@AP-lh1bq]

Jay in every thumbnail looking like he doesn’t understand how he got here.

[@ffwast]

Sometimes I wonder if he does

[@mwnciboo]

I call it the "Tucker Carlson" look...

[@BlackHoleForge]

All of the knowledge of the Nexus with a personality on par with Linus. All of the flavor and none of the anger, jayz2cents

[@jeffb.6642]

pretty sure a talking cactus would have a better personality than Linus

[@BlackHoleForge]

@@jeffb.6642 haha

[@clydefrog8711]

Thanks for the great video. My current one has a fan thats making the most annoying noise in the world. I tried to figure out how to fix it, but accidentally stripped two of the screws so I can't open it to try and oil the fan. I looked into it and its a OCZ-ZX1000W from 2013, so I think its safe to say that I got my moneys worth. So thanks again, now I know what to look for and learned something new because I never even knew about the 80 plus rating.

[@Karakutso]

0:01 He said no so I quit the video again. I like when youtubers are straightforward with this

[@ThePickleWomen]

These beginners videos are so helpful thank you for this :)

[@dpearson80808]

Never heard a pc guy correctly reference rich/lean and talk about air/fuel mixture before. Respect Jay 🤜 both my parents drag raced and and whenever I’m explaining anything to my dad, I have to use motor analogies so that power supply:fuel mixture analogy was speaking my language haha

[@CyclingIngenieur]

Thanks for the video. On longevity, I'd add that I have to replace a 10 year old 850W Cooler Master because it doesn't have the 8-pin PCIEs required for the new GPUs, 3080s and the like. So the PSU has done well, there's nothing wrong with it, it just doesn't have the right stuff for newer hardware.

[@shreyjani668]

Meanwhile me using a 250W PSU in an 11 year old PC be like: "Okay Jay, alright Jay.. 👁️👄👁️"

[@mdegar1569]

Truee haha

[@amantedecapaldi4037]

U guys have PC?

[@Mr.Morden]

I have a 14 year old 750W PC Power & Cooling unit that I only replaced when I got a 3060 Ti. It was 80+ before 80+ was even a thing and it also had a single 12V rail back when everything else used multiple rails. This is the model www.overclock3d.net/reviews/power_supply/pc_power_cooling_750w_silencer_s75eps_psu/3

[@shreyjani668]

@@Mr.Morden bro, you rigged bro.

[@jameslewis2635]

@@Mr.Morden That thing would probably still be good to run your current rig, it's the 3080 series that needs its own nuclear reactor to function. Having said that a newer modular PSU would make building a system a lot easier along with keeping the cables tidy.

[@Ttblondey]

Thanks. It's been more than 10 years i didn't touch my pc since it's spoil. Just imagine during DDR2 times till now. I was so shock there's alot of changes. Subscribed already.

[@arash1934]

Jay, did you know that I literally take notes, like handwritten in a notebook, from these basic videos and videos like them overclocking stuff? Just wanted to say thanks for your hard work! Also if possible, make a cpu overclocking video too. I have overclocked my cpu and gpu already but I want to keep handwritten notes of them too! Its like an OCD for wanting to keep a note of everything even if im not gonna look at it again IDK! The most clutch tip i learned was the (CL/Frequency) *2000

[@matthewlanzilla9849]

EVGA has been with me for 5 years they have never failed me

[@ottoernst3735]

Love my EVGA psu

[@spikey2740]

Great advice. I try to stay within the 1/3 and 2/3 power rating of the PS for today's system. That leaves lots of room for growth, and the system can run without the PS fan kicking in until you go over about 40%. Nice and quiet. I bought a Corsair AX1200i for a previous build several years ago. OOO-VVV-EEE-RRR-KKK-III-LLL exemplified. And it's gone through a few upgrades/rebuilds. But I've never had any problem other than having to unplug and reinsert the cables to the 'puter occasionally. I guess that is to keep the contacts extra clean. Back in the days test reviews usually included all kinds of things such as ripple, operating temperature, and others that make a system smile because of the stable, well-regulated juice coming in. I looked at probably 8-10 different units before deciding. Quiet, stable, it just sits there and does its thing. Would do the same again if starting over.

[@MurkyYoutube]

Can't wait for this to be in my recommended in like a year

[@jasonswift7098]

A very informative video, thank you. Also another must-have is surge protection, either on a power board or in your Electrical switchboard for your home like I have.

[@kopilkaiser8991]

Thank you for sharing with us your extraordinary knowledge and thoughful thoughts. I was able to learn so much more than I knew about PSU and how I should connect them properly for my gaming pc. Thank you again and I hope you are having a great time in your life. My best prayer and wishes for you Jayz!

[@scottg406]

Great video, So much useful information that people need to know about P/S vs Wow look how big or how cool it looks :) I always find your videos very helpful and enjoyable to watch. I have been building systems since 1997 and would of loved having these videos back then. So many people don't no what it was like in the early days of dial-up hell to get info. Keep the Videos coming !

[@motorcyclethings6347]

I like how Phil...rectified Jay's statement.

[@draconightwalker4964]

very transformative

[@premjoygarapati5491]

Yes very transformative indeed

[@xavierfranco5800]

I just got an Aorus Xtreme 3080. You answered my question with the 1000 watt recommended. Thank you.

[@lom2981]

There IS a such thing as too much fuel delivery to injectors, specifically in race cars: 1 - Too much pressure can exceed injector minimum pulse width and make fuel delivery impossible to meter. 2 - Too much volume being pumped, returned and pumped back will cause fuel to heat up

[@noxious89123]

Glad I'm not the only one that caught that.

[@44R0Ndin]

1. Too much pressure is outside the scope of the analogy. Electronic power supplies are regulated, so if everything is functioning correctly there will be EXACTLY THE RATED AMOUNT of pressure (voltage). 2. Yes, this causes fuel to heat up. Can electrons heat up in the same way? Not outside a cathode ray tube, and those are very far removed from PC hardware these days so the analogy still holds. Gotta remember we're using car analogies to talk about PCs here, not talking about cars.

[@lom2981]

@@44R0Ndin except it wasn’t analogous and he literally said “you can’t have too much fuel delivery...”

[@TheOriginalFaxon]

Jay that power supply plug is absolutely NOT proprietary, that's just a 20A rated IEC C20 socket, with the standard one you're used to being a C14 rated at 15A.

[@docferringer]

I'm glad someone beat me to this. WARNING: I wish we didn't have to state what should be obvious. Don't go online and try to find a 20 amp to 15 amp adapter cable so you can run your PSU on a 15 A home circuit. You shouldn't be able to max out a 1600W power supply with any PC (even a water-cooled, dual RTX 3090 rig) but if you somehow manage to do so down the road and you're using an adapter to do it, then you get to spend a LOT of money playing "what's that smell" with your electrician. Like I said, you SHOULDN'T be able to max out a 15A circuit with a 1600W power supply. I'm not saying you COULDN'T do it, just that you would have to be doing something like crypto mining to even come close. And since your power supply is designed to handle more than 15A you won't hear any complaints from your PC until breakers trip and your household wiring suffers.

[@SpyAlelo]

Glad you guys are pointing this out. The IEC C20 is more commonly seen in PDUs in datacenters, where multiple servers are wired on 208v at a max of 20A which exceeds a 4kW load. So as Doc has said, is actually quite dangerous messing around with adapters and such to get around this. I think that if you have this kind of power supply and your computer DOES require this type of power, make sure that it has at the very least a dedicated 15A breaker and circuit all for itself or even a 20A run without using power strips, multi-outlets, etc. Also, don't expect your 1500VA UPS to handle this type of load. We are way beyond that at this point.

[@TheOriginalFaxon]

@@docferringer Actually I have a friend running a 1600w in his PC, it's a bog standard top end video editing rig with 4 GPUs and a threadripper 3990x with maxed ram. 4 2080tis and a 3990x is a LOT of juice, and he actually had to turn the power limit on them to 85% to prevent the PSU from overloading on it lol. Was still well worth the price for that many cards for the performance though, and he later upgraded the wiring in his house and installed a 2nd PSU to get it to 100%. Each GPU pulls just over 300w (so over 1200w total), and the CPU easily peaks above 300w as well, leaving less than 100w for the rest of the system on a 1600w PSU, if ANYTHING at all. He's using two matched 1600w PSUs now so that in the event one fails he can still run the whole system at reduced output to get work done, and because his PSU reaches peak efficienty around 50% load. It's possible he's using the exact same PSU as here, I'm not sure which one he just said its a 1600w titanium model lol

[@andreac2064]

Yeah agree with everything. A lot of good tips. I started with a gtx 970 in 2015 and a Seasonic sfx 750 (i always thought i'd eventually upgrade the hardware) which I still use today (altough the 2015 model had a malfunction 2 years later and they luckily sent me a replacement which is still working today, after upgrading to a 3070ti). And yesterday I bought a 4090 so instead of following the recommendations (1000w usually, sometimes 1200) I went straight for an HX1500i (Corsair) so it will last over time and hopefully keep the power load as close as possible to 50% where the efficiency curve is at the peak. 1600W would've been nice but damn the price...around 700€ for a psu while I paid 260€ for this (and is 80 Platinum).

[@davidc_ac9377]

"The plugs haven't changed over a decade" No one: Dell: laughs in proprietary

[@virtualtools_3021]

can't forget HP

[@actuallyokay6155]

And the new all 12v standard...

[@PhoenixNL72-DEGA-]

Don't forget Synology (NAS) :P

[@ultratechgaming199]

@@virtualtools_3021 I have an older HP that actually isn't proprietary (DC5850). I literally used my EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze on it.

[@BrandonWestfall]

“You can find gold pretty affordable these days.” When was the last time you bought one Jay? 😂

[@BlastinRope]

I got a seasonic 650w gold for 100 and a 750w also seasonic titanium for 200

[@alienwarex51i3]

I just got an EVGA SuperNova G5 650 watt 80+ Gold for $60. Not that expensive.

[@haithus]

I just bought a RM1000x for my 3080ti and 5900x for $219. Not bad at all.

[@iceclawz4313]

The world got better. You can get a Seasonic Focus GX 1000 watt for 180 bucks.

[@Carrejae35]

I Got a 250w bronze for $2000 not bad bro

[@sandro5593]

With sub 800W psu’s pay attention to the advertised qty of pci-e connectors. They are indicated almost always as the total count of 6+2pin heads, however these are mostly daisy chained. All higher end gpus require 2 or even 3 connectors on dedicated cables. Divide the total count therefore by 2 to be on the safe side.

[@kayanims]

Very nice one! Please in future can you go more in depth about the cables and connection interfaces on power supplies. They are so many, sometimes it hard to tell what goes where, what you need and what you don't need

[@parkerthomas3803]

My rule of thumb, unless you are really going for a cheap build, is 80 plus gold should be the minimum.

[@arcanacat3998]

Love your videos. Good advice as always. Not going to lie that the car crash audio was really jarring, though... maybe it's just my headphones.

[@SaroG]

Suggestion for the next PSU video: single vs. multiple rails.

[@paintballtennisman]

Just as a note, you can absolutely push too much fuel to injectors. Not the best analogy but I get the point.

[@bloxyway8548]

Ok nerd🤓

[@nateo200]

For some reason I find that my decision to chose a nice 850watt Seasonic feels great! The heart of your PC (the PSU) is just as important as the brains of your PC (CPU and stuff)

[@gerardete2003]

It would be interesting if Jay talks about multirail PSUs; how to load balance them and when one should choose them over single rail

[@Chris-ji8jw]

All the highest quality PSUs have single rail.

[@josephlalock8378]

fyi: yellow wire for car stereo is indeed 12 volt

[@Gabekhp]

Very helpful thank you.

[@XionSteel]

TLDR about the power draw: Power supplies have capacitors and a coil, thats where the power stays until the pc takes from it, otherwise it doesnt move. When power is cut, the stored charge very slowly discharges over ground, hence why you never poke into a power supply since this can take days, to weeks, to even months to finish based off efficiency.

[@TheFalazure]

Well you CAN, however precautions must first be taken before you can physically touch the components safely, they do make discharge probes which will allow you to discharge inductors and capacitors quickly to ground if you are going to work near such components, otherwise they discharge slowly through the circuits they are either a part of or power. I work with these devices as some of the systems I maintain in the Navy have capacitors measuring into the farad range (typical capacitors are rated for nano/micro-farad range).