Climbing how to: Escaping the system part 3, climbing rescue and problem solving

[@ashleystirland]

Why do you abseil on clove hitch and not figure of eight knot

[@JBMountainSkills]

Comes undone a touch easier I guess, and is maybe one millisecond faster to tie - mostly just habit to be honest!

[@sampoppen34]

Great videos man! No better explanations or quality shown out there for explaining escape the belay techniques in different situations. As for coffee, I'll send you some from Tacoma, WA if you send me some from around your neck of the woods!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad you like ‘em! Deal! Message me on insta 👊

[@TheFilip330]

You could connect the second (logistic) prussik to your harness as well. Or use the upper prussik as the logistic with a long sling for your foot, connect it with your improvised lanyard. My second prusik is a long cordelette so I don't need a sling for my foot.

[@paulmorrey4298]

Thanks

[@bucketfisher3438]

Informative video. Love the way you use your house in explaining!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SCD7]

Thanks Jez we are not in lockdown over here (Guernsey) but enjoying your videos great refreshers. On part 3 would probably back up the prussic descent on the spare rope as far as it would go with a clove hitch, might get me to within a few meters of my partner and reduce the risk of slamming into him/her from higher up.

[@BeyondTheTrail]

Loved part 3 Jez. Great series on escaping. On coffee, definitely visit my friends at the Heartland coffee roastery in Llandudno! Amazing business, they'll talk through what you're looking for, sample a few coffees in their really funky unit and find you some lovely coffee. I'll grab an espresso with you there soon!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad you liked it! I love Heartland coffee, so good. They should start doing mail order, I'm always in a bit of a rush when I'm over that way so have never had the time to go in yet :(

[@BeyondTheTrail]

@@JBMountainSkills I'm lucky to have a good friend who owns Providero and the guys at Heartland. The new unit is so funky. Potentially a place to catch up when this lifts, to chat about filming outdoors! You're smashing it. Cheers.

[@chrismorris9396]

If your mate was on half ropes could you take the tension off one or the half’s and use that to abseil down to them and ascend on that rope if your brake strand of the rope isn’t long enough to reach them?

[@jimcross730]

Awesome Jez. Really enjoying these videos. Been out in the garage practicing each stage and building on it. Hopefully I'll never need to put it into practice but better same than sorry.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Nice one! Yeah that's my theory too.

[@RoderickGI]

I'm liking your videos. Relaxed style. Good content.

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad you like them!

[@goingoutforawalk3866]

Love your videos! It definitely makes you think about scenarios. 17:00 - If you connect the foot loop above your main prusik and unfold the sling, you can connect your lanyard to the foot loops' prusik as a backup. Also, have you thought about heat resistant prusiks (such as BlueWater VT)?

[@Govanification]

+1 on heat resistant prusiks, I recently picked up a Sterling Hollowblock which is made from Kevlar and is rated to 13.5kN so I finally stopped using basic 6mm cord.

[@lukethornton1942]

Amazing video jez.very informative :)

[@JBMountainSkills]

Pleasure as always!

[@MrTomo4415]

Hey Jez, Hope your well and business is good for you.I have really enjoyed watching your series of videos and these escaping the system ones in perticular have been a great way to brush up on what I learned a few years back with another Instructor. So thank you very much! I'm pretty happy that I would be able to manage any unforeseen problems having had a little brush up on my own sling mountain but I'm wondering if you might want to do a lesson aimed at what the second might do should something happen to the lead climber? My main climbing partner is my Girlfriend and she doesn't lead, for the most part I use slings at belays. I've looked online for specific advice re what a second can do in an emergency but can't find a single You Tube video. I guess the idea would be an adaptation of what is taught for the lead. I know you like being able to improvise and I thought it might be a nice idea for a new video. Thanks again Jez, keep up the good work and keep having fun !

[@JBMountainSkills]

Hi Robert, glad you've been enjoying them! I've put that on the list 'cos that's a good shout, watch this space :)

[@MrRyancomet]

one of my favorite lockdown resources. is there any specific training course you would recommend to try this out on now that life is a bit more normal, or is it best to get a guide for a day and have a list of things to learn and just work it though on a more informal basis?

[@Lambda25]

Would a Fig8 on a bite be preferable/more secure to abseil off of rather than the clovehitch?

[@JBMountainSkills]

It’s an option but no more preferable or secure.

[@doughobbs7706]

Well done for mentioning the right way to contact mountain rescue and that you should consider your partner before calling on them!

[@patrickhazlehurst8472]

Loved the video; can you explain why you don't use the classic prusik knot if you're planning to prusik down the live loaded rope? I've always thought it was the most secure of the different prusik knots and you were obviously unsure about the klemheist knot for your waist sling.

[@JBMountainSkills]

What do you mean by “unsure about the klemheist”? Ultimately you can use whatever prusik you like, but for me classics jam up a lot and the klemheist works just fine :)

[@patrickhazlehurst8472]

@@JBMountainSkills You talked a bit about the risk of it slipping and burning/melting. I've only ever used the classic so have no idea how secure the others feel. Didn't mean to offend you if I did.

[@JBMountainSkills]

@@patrickhazlehurst8472 no offence taken!! I think all prusiks need to be treated with caution, as they are just wrapped cord at the end of the day!

[@patrickhazlehurst8472]

@@JBMountainSkills OK, thanks. I've really enjoyed the videos on this subject; I just hope I never have to use them!

[@Govanification]

@@patrickhazlehurst8472 The classic prusik is bi-directional meaning it bites in both directions but it can be a little harder to loosen one-handed when you are sliding it to ascend/descend a rope. Klemheist only bites in one direction but is a bit easier to tend one-handed. Both should bite similarly well if you have enough wraps.

[@fredcallado]

Excellent video with easy and fast procedures. But I think that scenario has a lesser chance to happen (Unconscious participant), I think a guide is more likely to fall and become unconscious than whos participating, othetwise youd have to climb up to reach him and then start those rescuing procedures. Do you have a vídeo explaining that specific situation? Because if its a guide fall and you have enough rope and its a overhanging terrain you can simply abseil your partner to you, but if you dont have enough rope or/Plus its a steep terrain itd become a lot harder because you couldnt simply abseil him through it. Do you have a vídeo explaining those "harder" but more likely situation? As well if its in a traverse, guide or participant fall, i guess this specific scenario is the most complex because you probably would have to set up an advantage system to lift your partner back up to the route in a single bolt. Id be extremely happy to see you solving those situations! Thank you!

[@stephenbrooks1536]

When abseiling down same rope as partner, Could you put a 2nd or sling prusik with 6 inch of slack above the belay prusik as a back up, so it would bite if the main one slipped?

[@JBMountainSkills]

Yes, I think thats a good idea, I was a bit annoyed at myself for not mentioning that once I watched the video back having already uploaded it...!

[@MarkTilburgs]

@@JBMountainSkills Also use a klemheist for the footloop and the connect both prussiks with a sling. That way you create a sort of a caterpillar backup. The option of the locker carabiner on to the rope is good. You wouldn't fall on your buddy. You still have protection points along the way.

[@Govanification]

@@MarkTilburgs Good point! You'd only slide down to your last bolt or trad piece, still wouldn't be fun to slam into that though!

[@MarkTilburgs]

@@Govanification more fun then death :D

[@krisjj100]

what size prussik cord loop is that?

[@JBMountainSkills]

60cm 5.5mm

[@Mr96danwright]

workerbee coffee... dead tasty coffee from Mcr AND they give a bit of their profits to local charities. good vid btw, useful!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Glad it was useful! I'll check out the coffee, cheers for the recommendation :)

[@paulreah585]

Coffee......Exe Coffee roasters have some beauties, they are based in Exeter 👍

[@JBMountainSkills]

I've tried that recently, well nice!

[@paulreah585]

Sweet, it's my father in laws cousins business 👍👍

[@MarkTilburgs]

Or at least lower them to a more comfortable ledge. Its better than hanging in you harness.

[@savvasioannou9851]

I'll buy you a coffee at Caban, Y Wal or Galleri cinema.

[@PhillSparks]

Coffee... I've never had a bad bag from Gower Coffee www.gowercoffeecompany.co.uk/ - a good local company that do 500g bags of beans (I rarely order less than 1kg), and they're still delivering at the moment too!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Nice one, I'll check 'em out :)

[@RoberDJLaing]

Thanks for these vids! It's keeping us busy 👍 Try coffee from www.dragonroastery.co.uk. Home-roasted in Newborough - he was just starting to sell at markets and the like. Beans by the 4kg. Don't know if he's still shipping but worth a try. How does escaping the system change on doubles? Would you do it on one strand, or does a prussic round both work? I can't try at home as I only have a fat single!

[@JBMountainSkills]

Absolute pleasure! I'll check out the coffee link, thanks!