How to pass a knot when abseiling / rappelling and lowering - Climbing how to with a rescue slant...

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JB Mountain Skills

JB Mountain Skills

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 24
@JBMountainSkills
@JBMountainSkills 4 жыл бұрын
Let us know how you get on practicing this one!
@ryanmoore688
@ryanmoore688 Жыл бұрын
I I had trouble with this one, while completely hanging just off the French prusik I was unable to take the tension off it to weight my grigri, almost got stuck hanging on a rope in a tree for a while 🤣, then tried the French prusik again with 5 wraps, 10 wraps it either wouldn't hold my weight or it would hold and not slip any to help weigh the grigri, I tried another type of prusik and failed again. Wondering if it's the material that my rope or the material I'm using for prusiks
@eloimauri6235
@eloimauri6235 3 жыл бұрын
I stumbled upon this channel during lockdown here in Barcelona, Spain. Since then I've been binge watching lots of videos, I find them super chilled and entertaining. Is it weird that I enjoy watching videos that teach techniques that I already know? I find this dude so genuine and I really enjoy his British accent haha, keep up the content coming!
@JBMountainSkills
@JBMountainSkills 3 жыл бұрын
Glad you've been enjoying them :)
@marcushill78
@marcushill78 2 жыл бұрын
I remember learning how to do this in desperation after abseiling off an overhang to find a knot joining another rope. Whilst hanging in space for a while and panicking somewhat I got myself sorted out. I always carry prussiks! Great videos!
@dacxx1424
@dacxx1424 3 жыл бұрын
Hi, thanks for a great video. I'm a climber of very modest abilities, but an experienced ski mountaineer and have lowered people past knots a few times when descending steep slopes & couloirs, this is becoming more common due to glacial retreat and the skills you've shown are a pretty key requirement these days. We tend to travel light so a couple of 30m ropes and no belay devices is a pretty common arrangement so prussiks, slings, krabs are a pretty common set of kit but not much else. Thanks again and keep up the good work. Dan
@jimcross730
@jimcross730 4 жыл бұрын
Cheers man, I've abseiled past a knot before but never lowered anyone. First I've seen this done so keen to get out and try it in the garage 👍
@JBMountainSkills
@JBMountainSkills 4 жыл бұрын
Good luck!
@TheUrbanhat
@TheUrbanhat 2 жыл бұрын
Watching this 2 years after you've posted, so hope your still tracking questions. That bit when you need to take off your belay device and clip it below the marginal rope: cant you thread another strand from below into the other eye of the belay plate? Since your only rappelling on a single strand, i'd assume thats possible, and would never only be hanging on just the prusik. Will try it out, but let me know if you think that makes sense
@tomtom4405
@tomtom4405 4 жыл бұрын
I watched "The Prophet" on Amazon prime about Leo Houlding's El Cap route. Cracking film!! If you missed it, that's a good lockdown film to watch Edit: not sure if this adapts to climbing but in caving SRT and back in the days I did access work if I found a damaged section I'd tie it out with *2* alpine butterflies so there was a tied out loop of damage and then again in same area tie all that out in another butterfly so you have 2 loops like number 8 on side of rope. Outer loop is damage and inner one you can clip for backup when ascending/descending the rope. Do you think that translates to rock climbing?
@JBMountainSkills
@JBMountainSkills 4 жыл бұрын
I don't think I've seen Prophet, I'll check it out, thanks! It does indeed translate, it's a nice way of solving the problem :)
@tomtom4405
@tomtom4405 4 жыл бұрын
@@JBMountainSkills lots of unrelated films with same title so search Amazon for "Leo Houlding". Worth a watch!!
@matthewlloyd2055
@matthewlloyd2055 3 жыл бұрын
Great video. Thank you. A minor thing, but clipping the clutch prussic into the powerpoint "metal on metal" works here, but when the prussic is loaded opening the HMS to take the rope out of it may be tricky on some HMS karabiners because often under bodyweight the carabiner will go deform into the gate and stop it opening. I imagine this isn't an issue with a chunky Boa but something more light weight may well prevent you from opening the gate going in direct with the french prussic. Hope this makes sense! thoughts?
@bonefishboards
@bonefishboards 3 жыл бұрын
Good skill to have on wall routes. Don't be that German guy that tried to manhandle his way around a knot on descent from fixing lines on Aquarian Wall in the 80s. Had to help on Yosemite SAR with that one. Gruesome.
@jordanlewis3790
@jordanlewis3790 3 жыл бұрын
why not put the part of the rope below the knot through the belay plate before undoing the part above the knot. you have two sides to the belay plate, why not use them?
@GavynPendleton
@GavynPendleton 3 жыл бұрын
Thoughts on ways to pass a knot on one side of a two rope rappel? Think coming back down a multi pitch route with a damaged rope. And preferably a way to do it without the extra prussik.
@GavynPendleton
@GavynPendleton 3 жыл бұрын
The best I can think is using a knot to block the atc after reattaching it below the tied off section.
@jimcross730
@jimcross730 4 жыл бұрын
What is the make of the sling you use for your prusik?
@JBMountainSkills
@JBMountainSkills 4 жыл бұрын
Mine are Simond ones from Decathlon but I think they're out of stock. I know some friends who use these which are the same idea: shop.epictv.com/en/sewn-slings/beal/jammy?sku=BEAS18_SLIJAM_35?shop.epictv.com/en/sewn-slings/beal/jammy?sku=BEAS17_SLINGJMY_60?code=a8f2a4
@jimcross730
@jimcross730 4 жыл бұрын
Cheers.
@fabianklappacher6909
@fabianklappacher6909 4 жыл бұрын
there is an easy trick to lower past a knot without setting up a second HMS. I personally learnd it in the Austrian Army but here is ah shot clip of someone else
@fabianklappacher6909
@fabianklappacher6909 4 жыл бұрын
kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5vVYoJ8ibqAa80
@petrpacas
@petrpacas 4 жыл бұрын
Hmm, have you tried it under full load? Imagine your partner is hanging in space at the point where you need to pull the knot through... Also, have you tried to pull through different types of knots (both joined ropes and tied off damaged ropes)?
@56NeilWatson
@56NeilWatson Жыл бұрын
Sorry but it really bugs me. I believe abseil is a German word, so why do we pronounce it absail?
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