JBugs - 1963 VW Beetle - Throw Out Shaft Replacement

View our complete selection of air-cooled VW parts on the JBugs website: www.jbugs.com/
Whenever you are restoring a VW Beetle, or any vehicle for that matter, there are always repairs that are unplanned. For us it means more opportunities to show all you at home another repair. Follow along as we show you how to replace a transmission throw out shaft.
Note: The engine must be removed in order to do this repair.
Intro 0:00
Vehicle Preparation: 0:55
Throw Out Component Disassembly: 1:00
Clutch Cable Removal: 1:10
Clutch Arm Removal: 1:27
Cross Shaft Removal: 1:57
Cross Shaft Installation: 2:41
Clutch Arm Installation: 4:15
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Tools used in this video:
Wheel Chocks
Jack
Jack Stands
8mm Wrench
15mm Wrench
Vice Grips
Sledge Hammer
Punches
3 Arm Puller
Flat Head Scerwdriver
Snap Ring Pliers
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The parts used in this video are:
VW Throw Out Bearing Shaft Kit (113198026)
www.jbugs.com/product/11319802...
VW Operating Shaft Fork (113141701C)
www.jbugs.com/product/11314170...
VW Distributor Drive Puller Tool (5717)
www.jbugs.com/product/5717.html
Note: This tool was modified to be able to remove the small end bushing.
All parts used in this video are available at: www.jbugs.com/
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Music Provided By:
Yeah Yeah by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Artist: audionautix.com/
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Videos are intended for entertainment purposes. Factory specifications should be followed when performing any task on your vehicle.

[@ToughShiftGarage]

Awesome videos. So straightforward with no bs. Love it!!!

[@michaelrobinson1945]

I'm glad to see this video. I installed a new TO Bearing and wanted to see if it was sliding back and forth correctly, when snap/clang...that spring broke. Well, better to happen now than out on the road. I ordered the spring and looked up this video. My Arm slid right off after removing the snap ring and spraying some Liquid Wrench. I'm not looking forward to wrestling that spring into position, though. I'm glad the engine is out.

[@Sam_Mebane]

Glad to help, ours went about as bad as it could! Getting the spring back in place isn't all the bad, using the arm as the lever.

[@michaelrobinson1945]

@@Sam_Mebane I think mine went worse. After about 3 hours of attempts, I watched your video again and noticed that the Clutch Lever was down on the shaft about 1mm short of being flush. I cut a piece of 2x2 and braced it against the lever and the wheel, holding it in place. Then I pried the tail up and on its' shelf. I clamped a small Vice Grip on the shelf so it wouldn't jump off again. Then I was able to tap the lever on to the shaft until the groove was showing. If there's a next...it'll be a breeze. By the way, yours is the only video showing how to do this. Thank you.

[@sethdbourne]

I feel you on it took a little more effort to replace it, my 1965 fights me every step of the way, she’s lucky I’m usually very patient and when I’m really getting frustrated I’ll walk away

[@jebzjaworksi8378]

I am only replacing my return spring right now with the engine in. The heater box is in the way and it is fighting me, but I know it is possible. I'm searching around the internet for tips and this video is making this look WAY too easy. I want to see him do it on a rocky gravel driveway on his back like the rest of us. If I wanted basic instructions where they never run into a single problem I'd look in the Haynes manual or the Idiot book.

[@jebzjaworksi8378]

I'm not mad at the video or anyone at Jbugs, just frustrated.

[@Sam_Mebane]

@@jebzjaworksi8378 This job did not go as intended even for us. This went from a 20 minute fix to a full days worth of work in no time flat due to the headaches we encountered. Keep in mind, we would never try this with the engine in place. Had you spent the time to drop your engine, you would have probably saved both time and frustration.

[@jorgegti80]

Thanks for the detailed lesson guys love this channel

[@simongrease843]

Well, this one made it really easy. Thank you!

[@KevinGross]

Excellent video, thank you!

[@TateReggie]

Great vid. Thank you.

[@jacobsteel]

great video! thank you!

[@ronriley2907]

The video was helpful but the modified extraction tool (distributor shaft install tool) did not work on my beetle. What did work was a 9/16"-12x2" hex cap screw which once bottomed out in the bell housing acted to pull the bushing out. Also the new bushing needed to be tapped into the bell housing using a 12"x5/8" threaded rod with a nut on the end as a metal drift punch and a small ball peen hammer.

[@Sam_Mebane]

Good adaption Ron, whatever it takes, with whatever you have!

[@peteredge7798]

Another great video but why did you not install a heady duty shaft while you had the opportunity?

[@Sam_Mebane]

The stock shafts work fine for most all applications. If you have an overly stiff heavy duty pressure plate, then sure, install a heavy duty cross shaft. For most cases though, the stock one works just well and has for decades.

[@crosserefuscaoliveira2071]

Muito bom gostei

[@Sam_Mebane]

Obrigado pelo elogio e obrigado por assistir.

[@CARLOSKORTES]

Hi great video I have a question what I need to do if I have a 1200 engine and I want to install a 1600 the push rod is diferent is a adapter or a replace part for this ?

[@americanspeedsters8830]

Add video of installing the bearing springs

[@JBugsVWParts]

The throw out bearing and springs will be installed onto the vehicle when it comes time to install a clutch.

[@davecrx2000]

Y didn't show how to mount the thro out bearing Sam

[@Sam_Mebane]

Can’t remember specifically, but maybe because we covered it when we put the engine in, in a later video.

[@MarkKurosaki]

How do you install the clutch return spring so easily? I've tried pushing the non hook end while the hook is attached to the clutch cable arm. But once seated, the spring angles to the point where I can't tap clutch cable arm. Mind you, I'm reinstalling this piece under the car; engine and transmission no removed.

[@Sam_Mebane]

Nothing in this repair was easy! You've got the right idea, once the hook is on the arm, you need to force the non hook side in place against the transmission and work the arm onto the shaft.

[@crazybbboy43]

was doing the same shit, I struggled for a day trying to get that bitch of a spring in. sadly, I made the mistake of removing the screw that holds the bearings in place, now Im pretty sure I have to remove the engine just to move and set bearings of the crossshaft where its supposed to be.

[@Sam_Mebane]

@@crazybbboy43 yeah, unfortunately that will be the easiest way to get in there.

[@quillmaurer6563]

Can the clutch return spring be replaced with the engine in? I don't see a need to replace the cross-shaft or any of those other parts, but the spring is broken.

[@Sam_Mebane]

It is possible but if something does get out of place internally, the engine will have to come out so be careful!

[@tecate9408]

Dreading this job, glad its shown how to here.

[@Sam_Mebane]

Hopefully yours goes smoother than this one did! This job SHOULD have been much easier but we had some issues that complicated it.

[@tecate9408]

@@Sam_Mebane Hey Sam Thanks, I'll be calling you guys soon I'm Sure. Think we might have been neighbors long time ago. Glad to see you doing well!!

[@Sam_Mebane]

@@tecate9408 thanks, possibly! Where abouts?

[@tecate9408]

@@Sam_Mebane Rivertree Dr. Oside valley late 80s early 90s

[@Sam_Mebane]

@@tecate9408 yep! My dad still owns the house, I was actually living there between tenants in July 2021 while I my family was in AZ and I was still working at the O'side warehouse.

[@Ralphsells]

The shaft cover that you mention is requested along with the clutch arm where can I purchase the shaft cover for 094

[@Sam_Mebane]

We do not offer many Vanagon specific parts but we are working on that. In the meantime you might try Rancho Performance Transaxle, or other transmission rebuilders.