Blown Generator Engine Rebuild - Part 1

I recently acquired this free Powermate generator with a blown Briggs and Stratton Engine. This is one of the rare ones that has an oil sensor. With any luck it did not run out of oil and maybe the engine can be rebuilt.
Watch Part 2: • Blown Generator Engine...
Thanks Kenny and Jason for getting this one for me. Watch them at:
Kens Small Engine Repair: / @kenssmallenginerepair
Pattey's Performance: / foreverfalcon40
Generator Model: PM0545005
Engine Model: 205412-0130-E1 CODE: 000225YD
Piston: 792117 amzn.to/2Tti6Ag
Conecting rod: 694691 amzn.to/3hs6PIj
Head gasket: 694872 amzn.to/3dCf7fT
Sump gasket:694953 amzn.to/3hnjsEE
Oil Seal: 391086S amzn.to/3hoGRWe
3m Bristle Brush: Roloc Bristle Disc Grade - 120, Size - 2 amzn.to/2UkHVm0
I use Harbor Freight Super Heavy Duty Degreaser in my ultrasonic cleaner www.harborfrei...
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If you want to donate to the channel, you can use the KZbin "Super Thanks" feature or via PayPal: www.paypal.com...
#GeneratorRepair #SmallEngineRepair #SmallEngine #DIY #Fixed #Troubleshooting #HowTo

[@ron827]

Love the string wrapped around the emery paper in the crank journal technique.

[@giggiddy]

Much appreciate these big projects and the long detailed videos. Your picture quality and editing is top notch and always applauded in the comments. And I really appreciate your calm demeanor without juvenile pranks and music. Thank you sir.

[@mylesedwin4328]

Pro trick : watch series at kaldroStream. I've been using them for watching a lot of movies recently.

[@gabrieljordan352]

@Myles Edwin Yea, been using KaldroStream for years myself =)

[@bakerandy2789]

@Myles Edwin Definitely, I have been watching on kaldrostream for since november myself :D

[@johncourtneidge]

Immensely so, yes! Such clean, methodical and meticulous work!

[@schrodingerscat8621]

I’d like to share a little trick that my machinist showed me. When removing alignment dowels, find a small 1/4 socket that fits on the inside diameter of the dowel. That way when you grab it with the vice grips, you don’t deform it on removal. A drill bit of the appropriate size would probably also work.

[@mauricekeithjohnson2598]

New to this site and like what I see. Smiled at the hand lapping procedure. Exact same as I was taught 65 years ago.

[@er1073]

WOW that old block is tougher than the new one is no plastic is always best. The 1999 one is very tough you can see that with the internal supports. Thanks for sharing your video with us James. Ed

[@jinbeiktr208]

I bought it 7 months ago on sale. I waited until I used this kzbin.infoUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y before reviewing. Bought for my travel trailer and runs everything with ease. My neighbor was so impressed with how quiet it was while doing my brake in he just bought one.Pros:Quite Plenty of power Handles and wheels help move Dual fuel Ez start every time so far Cons:Heavy

[@adnacraigo6590]

I like the way that you always clean the parts before reassembling things.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks! I get accused all the time of not cleaning the parts. I always do, but some do not clean up as well as others.

[@josephgiustiniani2834]

Threading that shaft and using that cut bolt was worth the price of admission. What a great method.

[@geoffmolyneux9173]

Thanks for taking the time to talk about oil level sensor, and why you do not upgrade other Brigs motor to oil level sensors.

[@KRTube75]

I have this exact engine manufactured 11/22/1999. We've been without power for over 2 days because of hurricane Helene. My father gave me this generator a couple years ago and the last time it was used could very well have been 1999! I cleaned up the carburetor and got it running and all was great for 2 days. I then noticed it sounded strange then all of a sudden it started making a horrible noise and I powered it off. I tore it down this evening expecting it to be bad but I was surprised to find that the 2 small bolts for the connecting for cap had worked their way out some. The one with the dipper had backed out about 1/4" and the other 1/8". Hopefully all that's needed is a new connecting rod.

[@mmcc310]

Love the engine teardowns and rebuild, never tire of them

[@clinteastwood3598]

Thank you for these videos. Things that I appreciate about your videos: 1. The information that you are magnanimously sharing with us nonprofessionals. 2. Your modest learned teacher attitude. 3. Your videos have no music. 4. No theatricals, superfluous talk, or takes of unnecessary objects in your surroundings. 5. Your comments matches what you are doing. So I know what you are doing when you are doing it. 6. You do not keep asking people to like your videos or subscribe to your channel. I have a made-in-Turkey generator (with a Briggs and Stratton engine, Italian coil, and a Japanese carburetor) which was imported by the Saddam government (and sold in Iraq), I know now what to look for in case it breaks. Thank you again! Greetings from Iraq🌹

[@ghall05]

Learned a lot from this video. The way you separated the rotor from the crank, the use of acid to clean off the aluminum, the sandpaper trick, and that bore measuring tool/the way you calibrated it to the spec! Really great stuff!

[@billhauck7872]

Recently purchased a Briggs that was on a logsplitter but was run new with putting any oil into the engine. It had has a bad knock so I am sure the rod is bad. It has electric start and I only payed $40 for the engine. I was waiting to see how to replace the rod and you did a great job. Thanks a lot for you video. The use of acid on the crank should be the best tip I have heard for removing rod deposit on the crank. Mega thanks, Bill

[@thetubeschannel]

As usual James, I always learn a few things and watch mesmerized.

[@DaveGagliardi]

I really enjoy how thoroughly you go through all of this.

[@davidbohner692]

Love your meticulous cleanliness and attention to detail.

[@oldguy8177able]

yes i enjoy watching a professional,and love your professional attitude,seems very rare these days

[@mcarroll598]

Great trick James, with putting the valve into the battery drill and cleaning it with scotch-brite!

[@woodhonky3890]

First one I've seen where the broken rod did not damage the crankcase. Very fortunate!

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

great job James ! I find that when the head gasket starts to leak and cause lower compression, the engine RPM's increase when the load drops off the generator. This causes the rod to have extra stress . also causes a lack of oil that can stay in the rod bearing . Sure ENJOYED ! Thanks..

[@piconano]

I learn so much from your videos. So damn interesting to me and I don't even know why, since I've never worked on one or own one! It's like looking over the shoulder of a master at work, without a sign that says; "No customers beyond this line" printed on the floor.

[@TKevinBlanc]

ASMR without the whispering. lol

[@Gilly14]

PicoNano - you nailed it, hands down great comment.

[@LarryDGreen-sv2tc]

Hey James! I just want you to know that I consider you the best generator man on KZbin. I started repairing them a couple hurricanes back (I live in Houston) for the people in my subdivision. I have probably repaired around 60 so far. I very seldom change people for a carb cleaning. I am retired so what to heck right? Gives me something to do. I want to thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with people like me. I have been cleaning carbs since I was 14 so that part was easy for me. I have learned a lot from you my friend. Keep up the awesome videos. If I ever run into a generator that stumps me I will contact you.

[@cpcoark]

Perfect. I'm working on this style generator right now. I have seen your other tricks but was scratching my head on this one. Now I have a clear path to follow.

[@rstephe]

Thanks Jason and Ken for helping us learn from this. Great job as always James.

[@HobbyMotorDK]

As always a joy to watch - Thanks James

[@jcondon1]

Many thanks!

[@davidkarath6549]

Like the way you refurbished the crank journal with string on sandpaper...great idea...👍great indepth video... thx for making...

[@johncourtneidge]

Excellent! As always! I liked the dual use puller (two holes opposite/three holes equally spaced).

[@larrykelly2838]

Doc, I appreciate your so informative videos, you don't take shortcuts.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks Larry

[@saadr2208]

(Hi guys, welcome back. So today ....) My favorite introduction. Thanks James.

[@offgridgarageUSA]

I think your video's are the best on KZbin James. I watch every one. I used to rebuild car engines many years ago and you do the best work. Thank you very much for helping people how much work and attention to detail is required 😀.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. I am still new at rebuilding. Means a lot when someone with experience likes what he sees.

[@alanfryer5670]

Really appreciate the notes on engine and the parts

[@scottdenhamrealestate7716]

You have said that most of the Briggs engines are oil starvation issues. This looks like a classic case with the owner adding fresh oil to see if it will work. Unfortunately for them it was to late. Looking forward to seeing part 2. Great work.

[@jcondon1]

Usually when they run out of oil it is a slow process over hours and everything is coated in burnt oil. Not this one. Think someone ran it on a hill and killed it quickly.

[@mattseymour8637]

@@jcondon1 what kind of slope would be a problem to run an engine on? Are we talking a more severe slope?

[@Skynet-1]

Good video James! It looks to me like that generator was well taken care of in it's previous life. Very clean looking inside and out. 🔧👍👍👍

[@jcondon1]

I agree. I think someone just ran it on a hill and it made quick work of the connecting rod.

[@davidduma7615]

All the rust.. including on the rotor inside the generator... suggest otherwise.

[@PeterHynes]

Another excellent project with beautifully explained analysis and repair. I learn from each project you perform. Truly grateful and totally addicted to your content! Many thanks.

[@vinopan5374]

As always, simply outstanding! Can’t wait for the next video! Thanks James for sharing.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Ken and Pattay are both amazing channels and people @James Condon

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

That crank journal looks good

[@jerrybootneck1736]

Great video James, looking forward to part two.

[@Farm_fab]

Jim, I think you will be happy with your Ryobi tools. We mostly use them at work , but do have some DeWalt tools. I was able to get the boss a Ryobi cordless miter saw, and he was quite pleased with that. I also got him the Ryobi cordless circular saw, and this he liked, too. They all use the one + batteries.

[@MollydogRadar]

The lubricant you put on the valve stems looks like the STP oil treatment I used on crank shafts when I rebuilt car engines. Never spun a bearing using STP.

[@EvaderGuy]

You are the lock picking lawyer of gelatos! Well done, sir. Thanks.

[@RGD-Audio-Repairs]

The crankshaft is perfectly fine to be re-used :) If the lower measurement on the micrometer, is based from within the middle of the crank journal... Thats perfectly fine.. The issue is, if its the outer measurements, consistently, around the full diameter of it.. Thats when it will cause issues or excessive wear on new crank end bearings... As yours stands.. Perfectly acceptable measurements from a use part, and perfectly fine to re-use.. (i have rebuilt many car engines... And fully forge built mine)

[@kerrygleeson4409]

Always very interesting and informative James thanks for sharing 🦘🇦🇺👍

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@vmaxride06]

Another great video, looking forward to the build and run off....

[@jcondon1]

You and me both!

[@ni_wink84]

I just wanted to say thank you for the info on the ultra sonic cleaner liquid! Works great! Thanks again! Love the vids

[@h7qvi]

Oil sensor was reading 300k to 2Mohm. Useless as a cutoff. It needs a vigorous rattle and shake to clean the contacts. Should read as 1ohm or less. Another fix is to feed current through it using a 10W bulb in series with 12V.

[@jcondon1]

The oil switch uses a reed switch. They typically have a high resistance.

[@ericvaughn1126]

Dang cliffhanger! 😉. Superb as usual. Need to get a set of impact sockets. I keep waiting for one to break or the inside to strip out on ya. Did the latter with an 8 or 10 mm a month or so ago and wound up getting a 1/4" and 3/8" set. Neighbor has a 1/2" Hoss and sockets he lets me borrow as needed. We'll be waiting for part Deux on this one!

[@jcondon1]

I have a great impact set, but starts at 3/4". I agree, need to get a proper one for the smaller sizes, but so far have not destroyed any sockets.

[@ericvaughn1126]

@@jcondon1 In case you are interested, the sets I got are as follows and all I could justify for an evening/weekend warrior like myself. www.amazon.com/dp/B07RGBXTQ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share www.amazon.com/dp/B005MVB9M0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share www.amazon.com/dp/B07G1T6VBZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[@mjg263]

Lots of very helpful tips in these rebuild videos James, really enjoyed watching this. Thanks!

[@davidhelmuth6654]

Always interesting and informative. Thank you. Information is power...

[@sdksniper]

I love this so so much. I can watch this for hours.

[@petersallander6913]

Great video James I just started watching and you gave allot of info. I can't wait for the next one.

[@deangentles4966]

Hi James you like working on your Briggs and Stratton engines and I can see you have done this many times before. Looks like a good gene to me and free but your got to put the hours in. You worked your new drill hard for its first time out mate. I am looking forward to this gene being reborn

[@jcondon1]

Spoiler... It runs better then most newer ones I work on.

[@ЕвгенийФомин-ж4ь]

Привет из России. Чувак ты просто гений! Я по англискому ни чего не понимаю, но как ты показываешь всё понятно. Очень хороший канал. Удачи в работе 👍👍👍

[@Rudofaux]

You should make a catalog of these tools you improvised. I bet you're not the only one in need of tool to remove rotors.

[@seymourpro6097]

Right price is always a good start!

[@banderson5144]

Just one note when emptying the oil, make sure you remove the fill cap. It's same effect as holding your finger at the top of a straw with a liquid in it

[@roncarlin3851]

Hyy

[@Monza62000]

had a rod snap like that on my 7hp troybilt tiller ...it was a kohler engine,,,they made some bad ones back in the day for this model ,,found a rod at jacks small engines an new head gasket ..fixed it ,,,

[@Bigalhunting]

Looking fwd to the next step. C'mon USPS.

[@rayshutsa6690]

I have been enjoying all your video's. Thank you very much.

[@AZVIDS]

Great video and explanations....looking forward to part 2👍

[@aintskairtolskol9520]

love the video bro,look when you use your mic,use the thimble on the end of mic,it will give you max precision reading,it also stops you from mic'ing to hard,when you mic a part without the thimble you can crank down on it another .001 thousand

[@duncanmacdonald6993]

For removing aluminium deposits from crankshafts (or other steel parts) try using caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) instead of acid. Aluminium dissolves in caustic soda solution but steel is not affected.

[@watermanone7567]

Very nice work James. Thanks

[@jcondon1]

Thanks 👍

[@28YorkshireRose12]

That engine has definitely been running hot! - From past experience, I'd be a little bit suspicious that the head might be distorted, hence the exhaust blow at the gasket. That said though, if that oil sensor was loose, it's also possible that the head was incorrectly torqued. Other than that, it all cleaned up very well - It's a survivor! It will be interesting to see how it runs, and to see how lean the fuel mixture is. I think a bit rich is definitely better than even a fraction too lean. I was surprised to see those concentric slip rings! I thought they were last used by Noah, on the Ark! - The Lucas ACR series automotive alternators used that approach, but it suffered badly with excessive wear, especially on the outer ring.

[@jcondon1]

Not to spoil the next video, but the carb was a clone and it ran the engine very lean and poorly. Ended up swapping in an OEM carb. Big difference!. Not the first Briggs clone I have run into on these. The last one was running very rich. I have had bad luck on generators with clone carbs. Only clones that were any good were on Honda clones, Yamaha and GN220.

[@briankemp5206]

Great video James.

[@scrapbongo]

Very interesting diagnosis and tear down. Free items are the best /cheers ScrapBongo

[@jcondon1]

Free is always good.

[@scrapbongo]

@@jcondon1 Yes sir indeed

[@vettepicking]

I like to lapp the head gasket surface for flatness with 220gr or 320gr on a surface plate. Helps with blown gaskets

[@Razzaqabuali]

Welcome back.

[@FarmCraft101]

For what it's worth, I think the service manual is wrong on that crankshaft spec. I noticed that is said 1.2475" (31.68mm). If you check, 31.68mm is actually 1.2472". So the fact that the inch/metric measurement they give in the same place don't even agree really says something. And obviously if 31.68mm is in spec, then so is 1.2472, so you were within spec on all measurements.

[@jcondon1]

Another thing I did not consider at the time was the combined wear allowed for the crankshaft journal and connecting rod crank pin bearing. Combined allowed is 0.003". The new connecting rod had no wear, so 1.2465 on the crank still would have been 0.001" above the combined reject size using the service manual numbers. Seams better to measure the gap between the parts then base reject sizes on only one part in the system.

[@robertcalmes9708]

So excited when a new video is posted! 😃

[@gonefishn1975]

Use your thumb screw at the handle end of your micrometer, it keeps you from overtorqueing and distorting your readings. It will give you the same readings every time.

[@kristenwill57]

Hi I enjoy watching you rebuilding things the think that makes nut you cleaning something and not cleaning the outside then you all ready have everything apart besides that it all great

[@PumpkinKingXXIII]

Looks like one I found the other day but the Briggs was red. When I got the head off there was over a 1/2 inch of rust and debris sitting on the piston stopping it from turning over. When I got it out the cylinder had the worse scraps I’ve seen. Both valves were bent.

[@sofjanmustopoh7232]

It is more than what The previous owner want to deal with it. 😁 Only you can do it 👍

[@mikeshobbiesandrandomstuff]

Must be competitor's giving thumbs down because they can't handle his skills...😂

[@jcondon1]

Too long for some people.

[@nasigoreng553]

You have access to so many generator options. I am struggling to scrounge together anything here atm

[@paulblackman4833]

One thing you can do when removing the dowels on the block is to find a drill bit or something the same diameter as the inside of the dowel and slide it in before grabbing it with the pliers, reduces the chance of crushing the dowel.

[@jcondon1]

Good idea. The dowels on the pre 2005 Briggs OHV engines are a pain to get out. Did not show it, but it took a bit a work before going to the vice grips.

[@MGB-learning]

Great video

[@KensSmallEngineRepair]

Glad it wasn’t a total loss!

[@jcondon1]

Was not expecting to see what I did. Very clean inside.

[@STTC]

Very interesting watch

[@Wijnamar]

Love waching your videos, I've learned a lot from them. Why dont you put the generators on a workbench (with a hoist of course)? Now you're always working on your knees. Plus it's better for your back. (I'm just curious, not a hater)

[@joemc111]

I have been watching your videos. I am one of those guys that puts it on the curb. Anyway for the first time I am getting ready to buy a generator. My question is about starting the generator every few months, Does anyone have the main tank disconnected and just uses a 4 or 5 ounce tank,like on a weed eater, for the test runs? Then when the big moment comes your gas tank will be clean.

[@Avidfisher777]

I'm wondering if a dingleberry hone would be better for honing that cylinder, maybe a better crosshatch?

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

A ton of differences between the sump covers and the gears between that 10 year gap @James Condon

[@vanover69]

Love the video...I have a question. my honda GX390 block seems to have stress cracks so I got a used block. The cylinder sleeve ID on the replacement block is 3.467 in all areas. The spec I think is 3.4646 to 3.4652 and the service limit is 3.4710. Is this block a lose cause as its outside the spec? It goes on a 8000watt generator. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance

[@ronaldkubert4527]

I’m having Subaru flash backs..please beat it

[@number40Fan]

Suppose that engine had been apart before? How many factory pistons have you seen STD on? If you want a good way to check if a valve is sealing good is to fill the chamber with a fluid and blow air into the ports. If you see any bubbles, you'll know they aren't sealing properly.

[@kthwkr]

All in spec. No damage. Why did the connecting rod break?

[@jcondon1]

That is what I am wondering. Would assume someone ran this on a hill and the oil was tipped away from the dipper and it made quick work of the con rod.

[@michaeltarasenkoop2389]

An idea every generator that has a cover for the exhaust cover it’s always rusty and looks like it’s an old engine why not make it out of a aluminum material no need to painting to make it look better !most of the parts are made out of aluminum any way ! Or better yet make the cover out of hard Bakelite if it doesn’t melt

[@fandy2518]

A like everything your video James 🙏🙏

[@mikesbarn1858]

Have you tried the hard plastic razor blades for gasket removal and clean up? They come in different hardness colors.

[@jcondon1]

No, but will look to pick one up. Cleaning that stuff off takes a while. Always looking for something better.

[@phbrinsden]

Excellent video. Is there a follow up showing startup?

[@jcondon1]

Next week

[@phbrinsden]

@@jcondon1 excellent. Thanks for response.

[@jorgennorrman4023]

What did you do with the rope !? intresting method !! It looked like you were sanding some how !??

[@jcondon1]

I wrapped sand paper around the crank journal. 800, 1500 and 3000 grit. The rope was to help polish more evenly.

[@docpalazola491]

You need only two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape: if it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40; if it moves and shouldn't, use the duct tape.

[@larrysmall3521]

How about getting some plastigage and checking the bearing clearance. That is really the critical measurement.

[@jcondon1]

Yes, did that in part 2 coming out on Thursday.

[@carrellblack1014]

I used to get that when I rebuilt VW engines. They would put oil in after they blew the engine the. Wonder why it didn’t run. Also after reinstallation we had to fix the oil light before we could test run

[@chrisssmallengines7163]

In stead of cutting all your good bolts buy some threaded rod to use for this purpose .

[@billy123174]

Mostly in good condition

[@iconoclad]

Couldn't you pressurise the crankcase to push the piston back up?