Broken Predator Compression Release? - High Compression and Hard to Start

[@waynestefinashen239]

James it is the OLD MAN at Eliminator Performance saying what a great video this was and kudos to Kens Small Engine for supplying this generator. My buddy has a habit of lifting the front wheels of his mower and banging it down whenever the engine is not running properly. Surprisingly enough i have seen him do this and it clears a stuck needle valve. Do you think that if this generator would have been shocked in a similar fashion this would have released that stuck compression release assembly? Basically, once you saw it on camera and prior to disassembly do you think it would be worth a try?

[@jcondon1]

Definitely worth I try. I edited that footage out. I rotated the engine until the compression release weight was up. Then lifted the engine side up and dropped it hard on the ground. It did not work in this case, but think it could have if I lifted the machine a little higher before dropping it. I was half expecting it to stick again due to damage so ended up going in. In retrospect I should have dropped it harder.

[@jcondon1]

Here is the drop footage. Definitely should have dropped it a little harder. Just uploaded. Will be available shortly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKC4Y4ODZa6Ihs0

[@bobwilson7684]

@@jcondon1 hi James, allow me a necessary joke here, that is to say, if you never heard this before, that your surname is a very complicated for a surname if you ever go to a Spanish speaking country hahahaha ;) cool video, keep it up🖖

[@wjodf8067]

@@jcondon1 percussive maintenance does not let you get out all the neat tools and make a video you sould get a clean machine once in a while with all the parts

[@bobpegram8113]

​@@jcondon1 😢

[@eastcoastwatch672]

Man that is an immaculate machine, it’s still brand new. I think the sticker was on right, I don’t think it was an arrow but an international indicator of wide open to the right and to the tiny opening or closed to the left. Great trouble shooting find of the compression release problem. You have an immense knowledge of generators and small engines, we are learning a lot from you! Thanks!

[@phillipbecker453]

I think the sticker was correct too.

[@TerminatorJuice]

Yeah, I was scratching my head when he was taking about the sticker and then flip it the wrong way... Lol

[@haneyoakie14]

I am channeling you today James. I bought a generator, a Dayton from 1980 with an 8 HP Briggs on it. I pick it up at the auction site this afternoon and get to playtime.

[@waynestefinashen239]

Good luck on your purchase should make a good video buddy, hope you can get it up and running.

[@haneyoakie14]

@@waynestefinashen239 thank you Wayne. I hope at least parts of it make it to my channel. It is a majestic piece of generator manufactured back when things were well made. I’m excited about it.

[@haneyoakie14]

@@waynestefinashen239 I have some video of it running on my channel and the gas tank has been sitting for 24 hours now filled with a 50/50 mix of water and muradic acid. Tonight I will see if the original tank is good to go. I got the glass sediment bowl spotless.

[@waynestefinashen239]

@@haneyoakie14 Hopefully the tank holds up and does not need replacement

[@haneyoakie14]

@@waynestefinashen239 I ended up leaving the acid in a while longer because it still has work to do.

[@swallowinn4410]

Hello James. Great video, just a small suggestion for your water removal of the stator. Put 2 nuts on the bolt and lock them into place at the length just short of bottoming on the threads. This will be a hard stop prior to bottoming and allow you to run the bolt in as fast as possible to generate maximum pressure. With your experience not necessary, some novices may find this a thread saver.

[@jcondon1]

Great idea

[@toolwarrior1773]

Even though I likely will never do what you do on a daily basis, I still enjoy learning why these pieces of hardware you work on fail. This video was yet another example. I knew about compression release making things easier to start, but this is the first time the mechanism has been explained in a way that is easily understandable. That is what I really appreciate about your videos. You don't just turn on a camera and do things. You often stop and explain why things work the way they do and equally importantly, why you are doing what you are doing. Fantastic job, James. Keep up the great videos.

[@johncourtneidge]

Yes!

[@johnmeyer8495]

Always waiting for the next project you have for us avid small engine and genny enthusiasts James, you truely are a motor master and your diagnosis and repair skillset is most commendable. I have my own little electric start 6.5KW genny, which I have had to leave in storage for a few years that has been given a new lease of life thanks to your channel. I must confess the smell of vanished petrol I had keeping me company during the refit of my genny refit has again brought an added dimension to what we all sometimes miss out on with your projects only because of the details has us almost there with you. Another perfectly good machine working perfectly again due to your abilities...Bravo sir

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@richb4099]

I really love the water trick to remove the rotor. I've pulled apart many various machines and have had rotors that refuse to come loose no matter what I've tried. The compression release info is very helpful too. I don't work on a lot of small units but it's good info......Rinky Dink is the way I'd describe the compression release mechanisms......and when one doesn't work it really complicates repairing a small machines engine....

[@somejoe7777]

James, have you ever tried to use a slide hammer to remove the rotor? I think it would be far easier than using the water compression method.

[@davidlamberson5435]

I am a school trained H-D Technician. I got out the business in 2008 when the recession closed my dealership and put a hurt on the industry nationwide. I have done all kinds of jobs since then but have had little interest in mechanical work. KZbin and videos like yours have got me interested in wrenching on stuff again. I will be retired soon and I was planning on repairing and flipping cars in retirement for😊 money and something to do. Now Im thinking my little 1 car plus garage might be perfect for small engine repair. I suspect I have the lions share of the tools needed for such work. Keep making Videos. Thanks.😊

[@jonminer9891]

Hi, James. I agree with your guess that those little bits of metal jammed the compression release. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!

[@philliphall5198]

I had a new Honda GX390 that did that and it was really stuck tight They finished new cam and gasket

[@johncourtneidge]

Yes, me too!

[@kriswright1022]

New case gasket, used camshaft, fresh oil, no cleaning necessary,...... this one was an easy ( ? ) repair! Well done again, my friend.

[@BlueSilverado]

First time I've actually send someone realize the problem while it was on screen. Just like I was there. Great video and great job.

[@krzysztofsoja5301]

Hello James. It is really nice to the rise of the amount of measuring equipment. First it was just a killawatt, then oscilloscope, THD meter, now sound level meter. Nice to see you upgrading your capabilities. I see the potential use for some laparoscopy tools to fix stuck compression release without opening crank case :D

[@kevinfoster1213]

I've been watching the channel since the inception. I give a sigh of relief every time I see equipment on the lift. My back was sore watching Mr. J work from the concrete day in and day out. K

[@billharris6886]

Nice fix Jim, you make it look easy! Having a second problem adds to the troubleshoot, but fortunately, the 2 problems were easy to separate. I bought the 8750/7000 Predator in 2016, it had the same hard pull start from day one. I looked at KZbin videos at the time to see if other people were having the same trouble. I didn't see any, everyone appeared to have no trouble hand cranking the engine (I also did not know the engine had a compression release). So, I assumed, since just turning 61, my strength was declining or I was using the wrong pull technique. To compensate, I used the diesel starting technique (where you preposition the piston so it is just past the compression point), which worked. However, after 20 - 30 hours of run time and 2 oil changes, the hard starting problem went away so, I assumed it was a poorly machined part that needed additional break-in. I wanted to point out that all torqued fasteners must have some type of lubrication on the treads, or the reading is invalid. This is because dry threads have some degree of binding, and thus, throws off the actual torque reading. I use axle grease on all threads, except those that will experience high heat, in which case I use anti-seize lubricant. The grease is especially useful with aluminum cased engines, due to the galvanic corrosion that takes place between the steel and aluminum, making disassembly much easier years down the road.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks Bill for the tip. I am always hesitant to use lubricant on small engine bolts. The only service manual that gives specs for wet vs dry is Subaru. The others say nothing.... Also thanks for all your hard work with the EM500. I am still working on two generators, one of which is on the lift. With any luck I will get that off tonight and free up the space for some EM500 testing.

[@billharris6886]

@@jcondon1 Thanks Jim!

[@JFirn86Q]

If the manual does not specify wet for torque (lubricant), then the industry standard is to assume they are referencing dry torque. If you put lubricant on the fasteners when the manual does not specifically say wet torque, you will most certainly be over-torquing your fasteners. However, yes the lubricant is great to add for corrosion reasons with dissimilar metals and such.

[@billharris6886]

@@JFirn86Q The problem with "dry torque" is the tolerance is huge due to various surface conditions of the fastener and threaded hole. On one extreme, you can have corrosion causing binding or, on the other extreme, if the fastener has been removed/retorqued several times, the threads are loosened up. Anyway... It may not be that important for this particular application, where the intent was to make sure the fastener is reasonably tight. Yes, putting steel bolts in an aluminum engine block invites disassembly problems years down the road. I always coat bolts with axle grease (or anti-seeze if near or on the exhaust) during reassembly.

[@JFirn86Q]

@@billharris6886 I completely understand what you're saying. It's just if specs don't specify lubrication with the torque value, you never use lubrication to reach that torque value. You will over torque it compared to what was spec'd. The examples you mentioned are also for non-new hardware, which of course is a different ball game entirely.

[@petergardiner4359]

So good to see you using a drill when ever you can. As an industrial electrician for 40 years with 100 stitches in each hand from carpal tunnel its very important to reduce strains.

[@paultice610]

Great video see you saved another one We need more people like you out there that are willing to fix these machines instead of throwing them in the landfill

[@guataco]

Hope you realize that your videos are a masterclass for people in your trade. I just enjoy the process and the narration. Muchas gracias.

[@bobadam7021]

You sound just like me with it making you nervous to have an engine without oil in it. My father taught me many years ago that when you drop the oil in an engine you should be uncomfortable the entire time until you put oil back in. It's good advice.

[@bertgrau3934]

I agree with using the better camshaft, that's a lot of work if you put it back in and after a few more hours does the same thing. Better to go with what you know works. One thought, if you could have run a piece of wire in the engine and got the compression release working, that might have worked. I don't know if that would even be possible , just an idea. As usual another great video, educational, and informative. Thank you sir 😊

[@Idnrntigzzz]

I subscribe to 137 KZbin channels, and this is the only one I have notifications turned on for. Thanks for making great content.

[@adeeponionbrah]

Seeing a gleeful teen brings joy to my heart! Good dad!

[@donburton2407]

Another great fix. I need to drain two generators this weekend and try to rejuvenate the old fuel with some premium gas. Great job. I have 4 generators so keep it coming.

[@ni_wink84]

What a clean machine, didn’t think it was 10 years old that’s for sure. That problem was a bit of an anomaly, but the design didn’t look too trust worthy on the CR, great job James! Excellent video as always, the water trick always impresses me with how well it works

[@johncourtneidge]

Yes and kudos to the original owner for maintaing such good condition! And what rotten luck for her/him that that pesky piece of metallic grit got in there!

[@timothydolan5587]

Thank you for this indepth video about the compression release. I replaced a starter assembly on a eu3000is, installed a tuneup kit, clean both the carburetor and the spark arrestor and changed the oil. Presently, it turns over freely with the sparkplug out but gets barely a rotation in before stopping using electric start and very little movement to pull start. I set valve clearance and checked for the compression release bump on exhaust valve. It seamed to move a tiny bit but not compared to the bump shown in your video. I now have a good idea the compression release is faulty. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

[@TerryLawrence001]

I love that you left in your assumptions and didn't just jump to the compression release. It is awesome how you include so much detail in how you are thinking as you work!

[@RustyNail5856]

Great job James. your son has a great Dad.

[@eastcoastwatch672]

I enjoy watching and learning all about small engine troubleshooting and repair from your videos. With that said, I have a pro tip for you, you should never start a bolt with a power tool, always finger start bolts so a cross thread can be detected, if ok then go to power tool to zip them in.

[@davidmonteil6340]

Great job again James! I thought I'd ad some humor and show a couple things in an actual Wen GN6000 generator manual. lol Unpacking: With the help of a friend or trustworthy foe, such as one of your in-laws, carefully remove the generator from the packaging and place it on a sturdy, flat surface. Troubleshooting guide: "Engine will not start" Possible cause Solution 8. Ghost in the generator Persuade ghost to leave

[@Survey-pls]

I wouldn't have checked the carb since you found the problem with the comp release. Thats what formal or alot of experiance adds to the job. you can work on my motors anytime, great job !!

[@somerandomguy3868]

I have the current build of this same unit, it's 3 years old, just under 40 hours, interlocked to my house panel, power's everything without issue ( I don't use any sensitive electronics when in use ) it's break-in oil had a lot of very fine non-ferrous metal particles I was very concerned with that and researched possible causes, likely caused by dull tooling during the machining process, but everything is good it was only that first oil change, I've changed it a few times sense then, I also changed the plug to an NGK with that first oil change the torch plug that came with it still worked but I've had good experiences with NGK and just prefer them to other plugs and the choke sticker is properly applied on my unit, nice job on this generator you make it look easy and while it's not the space shuttle you were pretty deep in the engine and that is intimidating for most people

[@RC-fu6hg]

Fantastic! I always wondered how the ACR worked and if it had any failures. Thanks for showing the difference between the ACR’s. And wow what a find that unit looks brand new still. 👍

[@PabloDiablo682]

I really like that you measure the decibles. That would be a big factor if i were to buy one of these. All your tests tell you everything a person would need to know to make an informed decision.

[@rstephe]

Thanks Ken for helping us get another excellent project with plenty of bumps in the road. James, thanks for showing how the Compression Valve worked and heck of a find with that metal in the fuel inlet.

[@robertrettig7110]

Mr. James, you just demonstrated why I broke my predator in with 5 oil changes, with increasing loads over 3 hours! The first 3 changes had evidence of metal flakes. Last oil change I put 100% Valvoline Synthetic for further protection! I know to some they think I'm doing overkill, but I'm 70 years old and have been doing this since the 60's! How many early failures are caused by people buying generators at the last minute and just using them as is? I also of keep carb empty when not in use, and keep full tank of 100% fuel when stored, which gets rotated out every 3 months! These are mainly "what if I need it" machines and need to be ready to go! If I was a contractor, I'd be okay using regular 89% fuel, but I never use long term chemicals in fuel for storage.

[@UhBuddy1976]

As a small engine mechanic, I would say that it got stuck from sitting without being ran too long. While this is rare, it apparently happens. BTW, I love watching your vids. You’ve taught me some things.

[@kendoeditionfuego1619]

A mi generador eléctrico champion de 4375 Dual Fuel le está sucediendo lo mismo, viendo tu video espero que el árbol de levas no esté dañado. Gracias james eres para mi el mejor técnico de generadores eléctricos del planeta tierra. Desde Cuba saludos.

[@mrobi5797]

Great video James. I really enjoy this repair and learn more about compression release. Continue the good work.

[@Joe-mg6pj]

Typically, sound is first measured at 50 feet from the source... so at 50 feet rather than 25 feet, I would expect approximately 6dB less. Great video.

[@r8118830]

Thank you for this one James. I am impressed by the performance of your new borescope.

[@philliphall5198]

Wish I had the new model now

[@repairitdontwreckit4257]

As always a well put together repair. Thanks

[@johncourtneidge]

James, you are a mastercraftsman as mechanic, teacher and videographer. Thank-you! Ps, You disconcerted me in not showing the fitting of the key zip-tie (usually white, here black) that prevents the wiring bundle being sucked into the roator and stator. Entropy always wins, eh!

[@AnyoneSeenMikeHunt]

Is 'disconcerted' a real word?

[@unknownuser8555]

I got the ryobi impact gun and sockets my wife ask me what did you do all day I told her I fixed neighbors broken generator😂😂😂thx good video james

[@chrisdevitto4340]

Just dealt with similar situation, pull start was so hard to turn over the previous owner had ripped engine and powerhead out of motor mounts. Luckily a valve lash adjustment and new motor mounts was the cure.

[@markmidecke6364]

A two year old story. My son lives in Liverpool NY ( a short distance from you I believe). His Toro self propelled mower had two issues. The transmission jammed and the compression release didn't work. He ordered the replacement transmission. We replaced it Christmas eve with it sitting on top of a garbage can. As we completed the job, the mower on top of the can fell over. Fortunately nothing broke. But it did dislodge the compression release. He's used it for two summers now without a recurrence of the problem.

[@markmidecke6364]

@James_Condon.. ok??

[@martynbuzzing3327]

Another successful outcome. You certainly know your stuff. It's been an interesting learning curve for me, who knew nothing about gensets before you came along. Thanks.

[@johnmckee7937]

James, although I will never work on a generator I find them fascinating. I do feel like I could I diagnose one if I had to. Great work as always one case where extended warranty would have paid for itself.

[@richardphelan8414]

Another good one Jim ,I enjoy you step by step trouble shooting skills to get to the bottom of the problem what I took away to was the valve retainer did not know at could be a long run problem if not faced in the right direction

[@hectorarroyo2285]

Hi Mr. James another great video... excent video, very interesting find on that engine. thank you for the great content you provide us... thank you for your contribution to this community... greetings from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷!!!

[@alanb8620]

Another great video James, you are totally amazing. Great decision on the other camshaft it was really strange how it hung up. I don't think I would have chanced it. I've looked for generators in my area they always want $400 or more with problems. Thank again..

[@jcondon1]

It is all relative. The broken ones in my area can be found cheap. When fixed they sell for less then they would in your area.

[@philliphall5198]

Same in West Texas There junk and you can’t believe what they say eather

[@THEMOWERMEDIC1]

I thoroughly enjoyed this video, sir I think compression releases, and the governor systems on small engines are a mystery to a lot of folks even seasoned techs

[@jcondon1]

Thanks Jeremy. It is misunderstood. People get themselves into trouble quickly when they start messing with the governor.

[@bparker86]

sir your video just helped me huge with a honda clone "steele 10k watt generator" and shes back together in tip top shape now your a life saver. i referenced back to this at least 7 or 8 times when i had questions. job well done i liked and subscribed happy holidays my friend!

[@jcondon1]

Glad to hear. Happy holidays.

[@presmak0542]

Good morning James,I try to purchase all those wonderful gadgets you have,but you are hard to keep up with,nice sound detection. Great video!!

[@MotoRestoFL]

I have the exact same genset. Bought 2017 and I’ve run the heck out of it during two hurricanes both with 5+ days without power, and a few times in between for a day here and there without power. I push it 240 volts back feed the breaker panel with the mains disconnected. I did notice it getting more engine noise last storm, so it’s time for a maintenance inspection. I have a maintenance log attached to the frame in a plastic zipper pouch with everything done and run time since day 1. And yes, it’s a noisy b**ch normally, but I’m hearing some unusual sounds. I work on these also, so it’s no biggie. Cheers.

[@er1073]

Not much to clean up and pretty minimal once you got into it. Good on you James still a teaching video. Thank you. Ed in Stafford Virginia

[@Bassguitarist1985]

Great video as always James! That valve train noise is extremely excessive. Either too much lash or simply a sloppy designed train design. Also welcome to the inspection scope club! Those things come in VERY handy in our line of work!

[@jcondon1]

Very loud for sure. Usually predators are not that loud. Almost sounded like there was no exhaust attached.

[@D2O2]

Hey James, great video as always. I couldn't help but notice what looks to a damaged cam gear tooth on the replacement cam. Here are a few timestamps where I noticed what I am talking about: 34:15 look like one tooth with very minor edge deformation adjacent to another with even more deformation 35:02 - Tooth adjacent to your pinky finger 37:34 - Tooth at 12 o'clock position 37:36 - Tooth adjacent to your right index finger Hopefully it doesn't cause any issue if I am indeed seeing a deformed tooth.

[@jcondon1]

I noticed the same last night when doing the final video edit. It should be ok, but would have probably used the original cam if I had seen that earlier. Was wondering when someone would notice!

[@giggiddy]

D- Do you often examine every video frame by frame?

[@D2O2]

@@giggiddy Only as warranted.

[@AW-Services]

Your videos are incredible. So much knowledge and experience

[@MrJmattr3]

Great video! Currently fixing a mid 80’s Gen power 11 Briggs and adding NG conversion.

[@tomz500]

So, I have a Coleman Powermate 6875 and it takes about 35 pulls to get it to start. And I noticed that last few pulls that it gets easy and then it starts and runs great. It's not super hard to pull but then it's very easy to pull. I'm guessing the compression release spring has broken and the the release eventually goes back into place and causes the exhaust valve to open and then starts. Great video. Thanks for making it!

[@6295danny]

Great content. Little tip on removing that rotor. Never hit the bolt like that. Put a socket and extention on the bolt and hit extention. No worring about damaging bolt or missing with hammer and hitting rotor.

[@jayjudd6518]

So glade I was not losing my mind. Hope you feel better soon.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. I never really felt bad. Just my voice.

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

Here’s a tip James, I have been using few years. I use a heat gun on old rubber hoses and anything rubber that is hardened by age. It softens them.

[@wildefox1478]

Pretty strange the compression release got stuck but it was an easy fix, nice work James!

[@larrycleeton]

Looking back I wonder if you could have freed up the compression release with a stiff wire through the oil fill while scoping it. Regardless the design of the other cam you put in looked more robust.

[@Jim-ie6uf]

That occurred to me, too.

[@SimonQuigley]

That's what I would have tried, at least to see how hard stuck it was.. And then when it frees up..

[@ImNotHereToArgueFacts]

Or maybe pickup a couple of inches and drop entire unit before disassembling?

[@steveh8482]

Great fix and video explaining the compression release. Learning a lot from you watching your videos.

[@FirstWizardZorander]

Please make sure you protect your hearing! Those sound levels are harmful sooner than you'd think. Great repair as always! Good thing you didn't reuse that cam shaft, as it might have sustained damage and might've been prone to sticking again. Good call!

[@AnyoneSeenMikeHunt]

Thanks Mom 🤗

[@FirstWizardZorander]

@@AnyoneSeenMikeHunt You kid, but I've heard too many stories from tradespeople who later in life regret being reckless with their hearing. Just a gentle reminder, that's all

[@AnyoneSeenMikeHunt]

@@FirstWizardZorander Sorry Dad.

[@kenmitchell3784]

That engine was so clean it looked like you were working at the factory

[@TimDyb]

Great repair video but the best part was the last 1:30 minutes!!! Also, seeing and recognizing the cause of the compression problem with the bore scope, a small pick might have been able to free up that cam finger. That's definitely 20-20 hind-sight!!!

[@jcondon1]

The borescope also has a hood attachment. May have been hard to hook it, but definitely doable. Another way would have been to position the cam so the decompression weight was up. Lift and drop the generator a few times and it may have snapped back in place.

[@TimDyb]

@@jcondon1 With all the small metal pieces you removed from the crankcase, it was a good idea to take it all apart after all. 😉

[@Ram14250]

Great video James! Interesting. I'll go on a limb and say this is where a Honda or a Yamaha usually is more reliable and quieter. Cleaner manufacturing process. That was a lot of metal in the crankcase and debris in the carb for a gen set with only 6 hours on it. Most people would not figure it out and just call it a "lemon".

[@jcondon1]

Better quality control and cleaner manufacturing would have prevented this. It still happens though with name brands. I worked on a Honda snow blower last year with a failed governor. Not clear it it really failed or maybe someone deleted it.

[@MrKeithsplace]

Two things I thought of, soon as you pulled the bore scope, I was thinking could you have used a fish wire and reached the compression release, just to bump it? The other thing is, wonder if the rpm of the engine maybe stuck the release, and even if you were able to free it with the fish wire weather it would have done it again after running. Heck but you so good at breaking them down, you could do it in your sleep. Love your channel.

[@transmitterguy478]

My son has one of these generators(4300watt) and I was shocked at how quiet they are. Compared to my old Coleman 8HP flat head with when muffin exhaust.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

Does me good to see the son light up and there is some interesting stuff to be found with Predator/Champion equipment. They have good stuff and I have some of it but some of the things you run into are interesting to say the least. BLESSINGS!

[@daviddamico4288]

I have looked into a propane conversion kit for my predictor generator, why are they so expensive, not much to them …. Nice work James…

[@michaelfarabee]

Well thanks for this video James -- I never miss one for sure. This video clearly showed me who makes the AI Power 7250 i have here. The generator has a 420 Predator and the same gen head as them as well. I got the gen recently and it was stuck. It sat for 8 years and was only in one hurricane and parked. So i bought it and brought it home to my shop and fixed it like you do. I have a generator business as well similar to you. I own 10 --haha -- But yes the AI Power stuff is Predator stuff just under a different name --least i know where to get parts --lol--- keep the vids coming

[@Tigerbythetoe]

Bro great video. I’m subbin. That part where you filled the shaft with water and the pressure literally popped the armature off? Blew my mind. Thumbs up 👍🏻

[@tonygriffiths2485]

Another lovely job, very well done. Thanks :) Repeat viewing, just as good as the first time. What a clean machine.

[@zrkn1]

Ken, you are a stand up guy for supplying this genny. How great is that people?

[@watermanone7567]

Great job James: I am surprised that an engine that size does not have an electric starter on it? I have changed cams with failed compression releases on Briggs engines but not on Honda or Honda Clones. Thanks for the video.

[@waynebrundidge206]

This was definitely a classroom quality video thank you for the demonstration of the compression release

[@BKD70]

James, nice easy simple repair!! I would have put the original cam back in myself, but absolutely nothing wrong with swapping out that cam either. That engine is made by RATO... note the "R" in the model code on the side of the crankcase. Also, that air inlet pattern on the recoil starter is a telltale RATO sign. Also, the data sticker on the blower housing will sometimes say "RATO" on it somewhere as this one does... although HF has been trying to scrub any obvious clue as to the actual manufacturer of their engines for a while now. But putting that "Torch" plug back in there might be a cardinal sin... that's a guaranteed failure LOL Great video once again!!! *** OH!! One more thing... you might want to check the accuracy of your Kill-A-Watt frequency readout... I stumbled across the fact that mine reads almost 1 Hz higher than 3 different multimeters... 3 against 1, it reads high. I guess the quality of the electronics in the KAW isn't that high.

[@jcondon1]

The kill a watt is definitely not a precision piece of equipment.

[@philliphall5198]

I would not use the cam that came in it The used one works

[@BKD70]

@@philliphall5198 I definitely would have reused the original cam... no defects, no burrs, works smoothly, and narrowed down to a likely tiny piece of debris that made it get stuck... the exact same failure could happen on the next start with the old used replacement cam. Probability of reoccurrence is the same for either one. But, nothing wrong with replacing it with the cam from the blown engine either... hopefully there is no damage to it that was not detected (crack, bent, etc...)

[@Masso1973]

Great kid, grateful for his Dad, I’m sure. 👍

[@daveschroedersworkshop4479]

James, I love watching you "hydro-pop" rotors!! LOL Nice job as always!!

[@redneckbryon]

Something I learned from a channel in Europe, if you were to block the intake, the engine should crank or pull over easy and there’s a definitive way of telling if it’s a bad compression release. Potentially if you would have tried, blocking the intake method to try and start the engine, it may have fixed the camshaft compression release

[@philliphall5198]

That’s true and it works But remember all the peace’s laying in bottom of engine can move and destroy block

[@redneckbryon]

@@philliphall5198 Yes and No, you need to remember the generator has very low hours on it and potentially the oil has never been changed and the bits of metal could be for manufacturing.

[@ariedekker7350]

Nice to see your son again.

[@Sev_Auk]

Just a couple minutes in, but your voice sounds different in this video. Under the weather? Hope you're feeling better now. Thanks as always for posting. Cheers, Sev

[@jcondon1]

Just a mild cold. The voice is the first thing to go.

[@Sev_Auk]

@@jcondon1 Haha. Glad you're feeling better and love the content. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Sev

[@LewisMowersandBoats]

Boy that Ken is a great guy 😊 and awesome job on this one brother 👏

[@charliehill6914]

Great video. Very informative. I realize that was your goal but if it had been my generator, before I pulled it apart I would have soaked and flushed the crankcase with marvel mystery oil mixed with diesel fuel and gone through the carb. I'm glad you didn't because I learned some things from the video.

[@gotelemwillyboyshere]

Dr James of Gas Generators , soon to be Professor !👨‍🎓

[@gotelemwillyboyshere]

James contact me asap , someone is scaming your viewers using a telegraph a/c in yor name .

[@larrykelly2838]

Now I understand the compression release, thanks Doc.

[@fredleonard1547]

Excellent info mate. And nice you explained the governor.

[@robfinch1522]

Re choke label, I had the same thing but mine said " On Off" just turned it over. Yours could be orientated correctly if you read the thicker end of the wedge as "More Air" and the thin end as "Less Air" ie "Choked". Just a thought...Great Video.

[@richvorp6686]

Hi James. Very helpful and learned some great things. Thanks for posting!

[@Popeyes66]

Wow,a comp!ete teardown for a tiny piece of flapping metal. I wonder if this happens on a lot of this model of generator. At least you have witnessed it with your own eyes now James and can add that to your massive cerebral library of diagnostics.

[@oldcrowcornhole]

Had this same thing happen on a Briggs 675exi. It would actually start and run but hard as hell to pull. Actually ran good once you could get it pulled over. Ended up being bad cam/compression release. Found a used one for $10 and took about an hour for me to install and reassmble the mower.

[@jamesmorriss9565]

You said a rod & bolt would not work as the bore is the same as retention bolt diameter. So why not cut a rod with an threaded end? Thread the rod into the crankshaft and use a bolt on that to push the engine off the rotor. Please let me know if there is a flaw in that logic. Hidden pitfalls are the bane of the inexperienced. I have a Honda 5kw that is a no-charge patient to fix (or try to) for the wedding venue I work for. Yet another result of being able to diagnose about anything that has broke/stopped working and fix most of it for the owner. I have learned so much from your channel. Please keep showing the teardowns and rebuild parts, especially the finicky parts, the "dos", and more importantly the "don'ts". Thanks again

[@jcondon1]

You can definitely use a threaded rod in this case. If the powerhead is bad I sometimes will just cut the head off the rotor bolt and use that.

[@jamesmorriss9565]

@@jcondon1 thank you.

[@johnmorse8434]

I’m glad you had a better camshaft, besides the timing marks, I didn’t like the way it rubbed the gear, I think it would stick again.

[@michaelmiller9452]

The choke sticker indicates air flow through the carb throat, not choke position. The choke closed (all the way to the left) closes off air flow. I believe the sticker was on right side up.

[@Captionmarvelous]

This compression release system that all modern generator engines apparently have, are somewhat new to me. On some older engines they had, a valve that was bored right into the cylinder that would be opened to reduce compression, as installed on one of my chain saws. My question is, what did they use to reduce compression on small engines back in the 1950 and 60's? I don't recall the compression being all that large? BTW, I was really surprised by the compression on that engine! 130 PSI, I never thought they would be that high. I've seen six cylinder aircraft engines at only 70-80 pounds. BTW I learn a lot from you! Thanks again.

[@erik_dk842]

IIRC the B&S side valve engines just had a bump on the exhaust cam with such short duration that it only had an effect at starting RPM

[@mattpeterson6366]

Thanks!

[@jcondon1]

Thanks Matt!

[@mattpeterson6366]

@@jcondon1 you make simple, simpler. Awesome videos. Just bought a 2000i to fix bro. Carb bowl was stuck to float.

[@paulwatts3328]

Watch and learn Boys and Girls< The "water trick"pure genius.I have been waiting for the water trick,I missed it on other videos.Thank you Mr.Condon excellent video start to finish.The only creator on You Tube that has my ADHD attention from start to finish.Cheers

[@lpconserv6074]

As a relative novice in things this complicated, can you describe why you degrease the gasket surfaces when reassembling these parts? I have in the past tried using a very thin coat of grease to make saving the gasket more possible if I ever need to go back in. Saying that, It rarely does work, but I thought it was a chance to make it work anyway. VERY interested in your idea on this. Seems to be something you do on EVERY reassembly so I am sure to learn something again!! Kudos for your efforts. I know the old saying, "those that can, do. Those that cannot, teach" You are standing living proof that is a FALLACY!! Probably not a high percentage of folks can do both, but we know now, it is possible... Keep them coming..

[@jcondon1]

A lot of manuals say to degrease it for the best result. To your point though, the gasket will not be reusable. A lot say to grease the gasket and it can be reused in the future. Sounds like a good idea to me and would do it on my own equipment, but tend to be more conservative if on stuff I am going to sell.

[@lpconserv6074]

@@jcondon1 I suspected your answer would be direct with your experience so thank you for the info! As a working engineer, I do try and think things through before I try things a bit radical, similarly to your methods. Good reinforcement on this clean surface idea. Filed as the best method now!! Thanks