Jeep CJ2A how to install a fuel system

[@bennyhelgeson401]

Thanks for remembering about my master cylinder clearance problem. I initially neglected to use banjo fittings that were in new kit. When I installed banjo fittings I still had a very small interference but with well placed spacers I solved problem. Thanks for taking time to help me out. Much appreciated.

[@royworks28]

I’m glad it worked out., thanks for being part of this and good luck on the rest of your project

[@CSltz]

I’m glad you thought the fenders were easy to remove! I had never done it before and wound up not being able to reuse most of the original nuts and bolts.

[@royworks28]

Yeah it’s really hard to to save the nuts and bolts on these old vehicles. But it’s definitely a win when you can get the parts off in one piece

[@markrandall1456]

I might put a 1/8” plate and move the steering box away from the frame. Washers might do the same thing. I don’t remember if you switched to a dual reservoir MC. I had the original style and had no issue on my 51. I like those filters. You can see if the fuel pump is pumping and see the dirt. Under the tank I used two rubber truck tarp straps with the eyes cut off. Same on top where you used the foam. I ran an external ground to one of the screws on the sending unit. That way I was confident I had the tank grounded. Great job as always. Thanks for the fun. 🤠

[@royworks28]

Thanks Mark, for the great input as always. I intended to put the rubber foam under the tank also but I forgot. But I fixed that today. Luckily it’s real easy to remove the tank.The only problem I’ve had with those filters is they can collapse where you clamp them. But I do like the way you can see in them.

[@chuckster6513]

Hey Jason You keep tinkerin with Ned and you will be wheelin afore ya know it ! Nice job on securing the fuel tank. You placed the foam rubber twixt the hold down strap and the tank. But what about the places where to tank contacts the body ? Oh darn, Always sumptin ! But it keeps ya out of the pool hall ! Stay Warm, Be well

[@royworks28]

Hey Chuck, I know I totally forgot. I remember right when I saw your comment. I was going to use VHB tape and seal around the hole though the floor and line the bottom of the tank. But I decided not to seal that hole because it will let water out also. Thanks for keeping me on track. I really appreciate it. Be safe and well

[@VWJawbreaker]

Great job as always, you’re so close to getting it on the road! My thoughts were shims or washers between the frame rail and the steering box to space it out a tad.

[@royworks28]

I think I’m going to try that, even though it don’t hit it’s pretty close.

[@VWJawbreaker]

Woah, look who hit 1k!!!! Congrats brother!!

[@royworks28]

Thanks for all your help and encouragement. I really appreciate it

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@royworks28 that’s what we do!

[@tombourdaux5952]

Looks great! One thing to look out for. We had some issues with our jeep and vapor lock. Our flex lines were too close to the manifolds creating too much heat. Engine would run for 20 min and then stall due to vapor lock. We solved the issue by adding a solid line to the inlet and outlet side of the fuel pump keeping it way from the manifold. I also insulated all the lines.

[@royworks28]

Thanks for the information Tom , I could see how that could happen. I’ll keep it in mind.

[@kolbywhite8583]

@Tom Bourdaux I think I am having this same issue, any way you could show me what you did? My jeep keeps stalling after running. When it cools down there is not problems

[@tombourdaux5952]

@@kolbywhite8583 I can see if I can post some pictures. The key was keeping the gas line as far from the manifold as possible. I insulated my flex lines with pipe insulation. It worked well but looked bad. We recently changed all flex lines to metal lines. I purchased the lines from the local fleet farm. Keep them as close to the fender as possible. Also check your fuel pump.

[@captaingilmacgregor5520]

Looks like the sector shaft bushings in the steering gear box are possibly worn, allowing the sector shaft to move around

[@royworks28]

Thanks for the heads up, I’ll check it out

[@OldCarGarageUSA]

Seeing this reminds me I need to replace my fuel pump with the correct unit with the vacuum pump for the wipers.

[@royworks28]

That’s the type my scout has. They’re pretty cool. I might put Manuel ones on Ned

[@FlyingWildAZ]

Shims! The steering box had shims, they are usually missing, but that is the purpose.

[@royworks28]

Thanks your input, I’m going to definitely get some.

[@matthewfrechette9850]

Great video, what did you do with the plug hole on top of the tank?

[@royworks28]

I temporarily plugged it with an odd plug I had hanging around. When I figure it out I’ll let you know

[@badgerbob2226]

is the bushing woren in the steering box leting the steering shafy move?

[@royworks28]

I don’t think so but I’ll check it out.

[@freakinowned]

Do you need to drain the oil before removing pump? Or is the pump high enough in the crankcase. Also when reinstalling the pump how do you know the rod is on the right part of the camshaft

[@royworks28]

It is high enough where no oil comes out. I didn’t drain the oil

[@freakinowned]

@@royworks28 thanks for the response! When I reinstall do I have to have the rod in certain position on camshaft?

[@kolbywhite8583]

@@freakinowned I was curious about this too. @ Roy fo you have any guidance

[@freakinowned]

@@kolbywhite8583 hey man I reinstalled my fuel pump last night just put the fuel pump lifter in the top of cam lobe

[@adrianstefan23]

👍👍👍

[@royworks28]

Thankyou