Jeep grand Cherokee seller "its just a fuel pump" diagnose/fix

Owner stated to buyer, "the car just needs a fuel pump", car gets towed to me and this is there discovery....

[@thomascoffman2263]

When you find the real problem but create a new one but then fix that one. Done that to myself plenty of times. Good work, real diagnosis takes time and method, don't let anyone rush you. They forget how long it took but will always remember if you were wrong

[@joshuanicholsjr5327]

great job love the way you went through everything and did not just start putting on parts looking forward to seeing more be safe god bless

[@aaronadkins4950]

This gentleman is very smart.

[@miguelvilla3600]

Awesome!!! Hey man on that same exact motor. My cherokee will run great for an hour two then itll stall but will start right after a few key cycles. I replaced the fuel pump since my sending unit quit working. Soni know its not the pump. Thank you sir

[@mikemoore2692]

Sounds like crank sensor

[@bradleyrogers807]

Mines doing the exact same shit

[@KBMOTORSchannel]

Haha. You totally didn’t know what you were getting into. Pullin that!! I did the same exact thing my first time!! I had to put cylinder 1 at top dead on compression stroke, then line up the sensor and oil pump and drop it in. Ran great!! It’s running rough because you didn’t have it completely lined up. Just turn it a couple degrees either way until it cleans up. But I was like no no no. Don’t just drop it in. Lmao.

[@partsshooter]

??? Dude, did you look at the entire video??? What are you talking about?

[@jeffreystine7068]

@@partsshooter lol.. im having my 4.7 just die on me while driving.. some are saying the oil pressue sensor.. im thinking fuel.. most likely the harness that connects the wires leading from the fuel pump. Some WJ owners said they had to eventually just take the connector out and hardwire it. Im still doing my due diligence ! glad to see your work!.. you cover all tracks

[@tripyhippy]

Thanks for the tip

[@scottlund4562]

Thanks for posting 👍

[@BrianWard-r9b]

Have an 03 same set up as you. Replaced fuel pump, spark plugs, and coils, still won't start

[@warrick1612]

I have a 04 keep grand Cherokee, it has 2 or 3 long cranks before it gets started which makes me think it’s a fuel pump issue. I have changed spark plugs and injectors, and I want to know if you think it could be the pump?

[@seasong4]

I have the same motor it's surging and sputtering.I have changed the crank position sensor and cam position sensor put new ignition coil on new plugs in cleaned the throttle body and added gumout injector cleaner still have the same problem.What else should I do?

[@partsshooter]

@seasong4 -What are your fuel trims like in the live data? -Any code present? -check actual fuel pressure... -What's your compression like?

[@timvest8141]

Excellent job.

[@jamesparrish3141]

Good job!!👍

[@dedmeat2]

You replaced the entire oil pump drive, it was only the sensor that was broken, 50 bucks and 15 mins. great diag though.

[@chipete1]

What do you think about a 2011/2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee?

[@raulgomez529]

That's not the fuel pump....its oil man

[@MississippiWopGenius396]

After replacing the fuel pump in my 2006 Jeep grand cherokee laredo 3.7 WK- Im now having a problem with a vapor lock and my new pump is making a ringing/humming noise off and on-is there a way to fix it with a inline check valve or inline filter of some sort. I have to release pressure on the fuel rail to re-crank it after it runs for more than 20 minutes/ which is a possible fire risk which makes it not safe to drive. Any suggestions?

[@partsshooter]

Vapor lock on fuel injection??? Seem strange to me because it's fuel injection lol. Do you have any codes present?

[@MississippiWopGenius396]

@@partsshooter showed some o2 sensor codes- replaced them still showing a u417 code/ it cranks after you let the pressure out of the fuel rail- but putting gas on a hot engine is not something that is very smart- i have bottles of water and a fire extinguisher

[@MississippiWopGenius396]

once it cranks it runs fine/ but if you run it 20 minutes it takes 20 minutes to cool down before it will crank/ just burped the coolant system, temp gauge shows less than 1/2 way/ it has to be air or something in the fuel pump not letting it reset properly. I dont see how the fuel could get that hot so fast/ engine doesnt seem hot at all.

[@MississippiWopGenius396]

so if you run it then cut it off, then cut it right back on it will crank... its when it runs for say 20-30 minutes and sits for 5-7 minutes then it wont crank for another 30 minutes- not sure if the fuel has a vapor lock or its something similar. One guy made an entire new fuel rail which runs across the front to each side and it fixed this problem. Another guy just lets the pressure out of the fuel rail- again putting gas on a hot engine.

[@MississippiWopGenius396]

@@partsshooter u1417 speed sensor code - that cant make it not crank can it ?

[@jasperguilford7587]

What was the name of the part you put in and the part number

[@AA-zm4ow]

Sounds like timing.always turn off battery never crank no more than than 2 maybe mess up things burn short outs Has marks on crankshaft pulley mark with white or reflective paint also paint a straw cut abou thet the size of the band to seen the mark exactly turn clock wise moving tours the left downwards .upwards tours the drivers side.to the down to the left facing tours it .right if your facing the same side. On the oil pressure must be 11 oclock facing from the passenger side tours the drivers use a flat head screw driver to turn . now electronic cap must be at 11oclock twisted at 11oclock find the hole stick a small pin in it to put in place put in at 9oclock adjust it a little to drop in screw everything on take off pin. Put battery on crank it step on the grass should turn on if not do it again turn the oil with driver screw 185 degree at 11oclock should be the opposite side on bottom with a screwdriver

[@jefflynch3524]

I have a 96 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo, I have no pressure on the fuel rail and I can't hear the fuel pump kick in when I turn the key, but it does run when I shoot starter fluid into it, any idea what it could possibly be? Thanks

[@partsshooter]

Usually the crank sensor fails... That signal is needed to activate the fuel pump if I recall

[@jefflynch3524]

@@partsshooter awesome, I'll check the Crank sensor out, I great appreciate your help and I really enjoy your videos

[@HtxBBW]

Would you happen to be located in Houston TX? 😫

[@mexississipian6839]

Whats the name of the part?

[@partsshooter]

Cam synchronizer

[@TheNachris720]

Awesome! Quick question, Could the ECU not send power+ground to the fuel pump, if the Crankshaft Position Sensor is bad?

[@partsshooter]

Yes. However you'll generally be lacking 1 or the other and not both! One is gonna be signaling depending on manufacture. [High side switch +, or - low side switch] Pcm utilizes the feedback signal from crank sensor. in return, the pcm activates fuel pump. thing is on some systems, the trigger wheel rotor needs to contact and close the signal to activate the fuel pump. Cranking the engine partially maybe necessary to hear pump prime.

[@TheNachris720]

@@partsshooter Man, a life saver! I run an automotive shop, technicians and I myself are currently in diagnostic with a 2000 jeep g-cher 4.0. No fuel pressure w/new fuel pump, power/ground to new fuel pump, only a couple ideas i have left. I am thinking the computer isn't sending or grounding power until it's satisfied with the Crank, and or possibly the cam sensors?

[@partsshooter]

@@TheNachris720 yeah... I'm not sure of your resource... But id pull wiring diagrams, find the constant voltage supply,[ KOEO] if constant power is available, go to your scan tool and command the fuel pump to activate, check the deduced wire that's constant with KOEO. A quick test on those crank sensors is to rapidly short the signal side with a test light [at connector of crank sensor, bias voltage pin], you're essentially grounding the crank sensor, emulating a crank signal. Do this while a helper start engine and listen for choke or backfire. If there's signs of life and it choke, you have a bad crank sensor.

[@TheNachris720]

@@partsshooter Ok, i will check that for sure. I think in simple terms, the fuel pump fuse is good along with the fuel pump relay. We have power to 1 of the 4 connector pins, 2 grounds, and 1 pin is nothing(maybe signal pin). For some reason, the new fuel pump wont "come on" with key on, no fuel pressure at fuel rail. Kinda why i am wondering and searching all weekend for information, if the Crankshaft Position Sensor is holding ECU from powering the fuel pump. I thank you for the insight and love the content!

[@mikesullivan3634]

Fuel pump hookup at fuel tank jeep 1999

[@mexississipian6839]

So what was wrong with it?

[@partsshooter]

Stop trolling... Watch the video

[@stevenhuckaby2902]

WHAT WAS THE FEUL PRESSURE !!!! GEEZ

[@timvest8141]

You have to watch until the end, he tells what it was. I think he said 40+

[@charliedee9276]

How about a 4.7 in a WJ? Stopped on the highway, fuel pump was noisy. No pressure, no pump activation when when keyed on. Same with new pump. Pump runs with direct power, fuse and relay check good, with no change swapping out known good ones. With light tester I get a 2 second light then goes out when keyed on at relay. I don't have a cool diagnostic tool, but am a retired powertrain designer. I was thinking CPS also. I know on older GM's it was the oil pressure sensor that controlled the pump, I found that out the hard way long ago. 4.3L V6. No pressure. Ford had their inertia switch in the trunk that fooled a lot of people, GM's was having the oil pressure switch command the pump run according to oil pressure.

[@partsshooter]

Crank sensor... The feedback is disrupted, internal transistor isnt operative. That's an integral sensor that provides the vehicle with crank speed, that in turn the pcm send output signal to fuel pump, injector pulse and firing! Having all you listed in common is the crank sensor on dodges

[@charliedee9276]

@@partsshooter I was thinking that however there were two things. I replaced the sensor last year when I had the starter out. As you may know it is on the lower rear side of the block behind and above the starter which is an absolute bitch to get out. It's one of those things you replace while you are there doing a starter because it's such a bitch to get to. Kind of like always put a timing chain on a SB Chevy when doing a water pump, just because you are already there. I also still had spark. It would try to start but just couldn't, as if it was out of gas. Between the time I posted the comment and now I found the problem. I bypassed the relay with a wire and wiggling the wiring at the rear connector got it intermittently coming on and off.. Found corroded terminals in the vehicle side connector. Some scraping, cleaning and a liberal application of dielectric grease was the trick. Thanks for the quick reply. Subbed.

[@partsshooter]

@@charliedee9276 awesome! I was gonna say never overlook new parts! 😆 There simple test for a crank sensor before removal, simply using a test light! Scanner danner have a great detailed explanation on how to do this. Easy diagnosing . Have a good one

[@charliedee9276]

@@partsshooter Thanks for that. And yes, I have had bad new parts on occasion. Not a "real" certified auto mechanic however am a certified "Master Motorcycle Mechanic", I know sounds fancy, but have been wrenching cars for around 50 of my 57 years, dad and uncle were aces, they taught me a lot! Like your channel and your straight forward way of root cause analysis finding the problem. Very good!

[@partsshooter]

@@charliedee9276 that's really encouraging, thanks!

[@jayhook-zm1pw]

duh?

[@partsshooter]

😮